You can. He catches details like derating the SER because its a feeder and securing the romex within 1 foot of the panel that most electricians I know miss.
DO I HAVE TO USE 1/0 CABLE (3 TRIPLEX) OR 4/0 (4PLEX) FOR CALIFORNIA PGE PANEL UPGRADE? THE ONE FROM THE POLE TO MY HOUSE IS 3TRIPLEX 1/0 CABLE!! PLEASE HELP
I'm an electrical engineer but not an electrician. I've wired several houses and various projects but don't do it enough to remember all the details. These videos are great for that, especially from someone who is a professional everyday person. Everything he's done is exactly how I do it and that's refreshing knowing I'm doing it right. Funny story...my dad, also an electrical engineer, but not an electrician was wiring an addition to the house, and I was helping. I was around 12-13 and for the next 20 years thinking "white" was hot and "black" was neutral. I was changing a plug on the 2nd floor and didn't bother killing the circuit. Instead, I just remembered to NOT touch the white wire. When it came to the black wire...well, I was "shocked". An electrician friend finally clued me in. Fast forward another 10 years and while talking to my dad, I told him what my electrician friend told me. He started snickering and said he ended up going back and rewiring the addition, black to hot. Needless to say, I was "shocked" again and told him my experience asked if he didn't think it important letting me know he taught me wrong, instead of me learning the hard way? He kept snickering....
My Dad and I were always super close growing up. He was able to run his hand along an animal electric fence, I think he could even grab it? He told me it didn’t hurt. You guessed it, I trusted him, got the stuffing knocked out if me. I was so mad I didn’t want to go home
55 years in the trade as a State Licensed Journeyman Electrician / Sub Contractor and the only time that I have ever used Aluminum Wiring was for a underground feeder from the Outside 120/240 VAC 200 Amp Meter base on a Power pole to a Main Panel ! And that was a USE Triplex Direct Burial cable approved by the Power Company and AHJ . I sleeved it in 2 '' Schedule 80 PVC Conduit buried 24 '' below grade for a 50' run .
For example Main House panel to Workshop 100 amp sub panel the direct burial cable you would use is "Triplex Direct Burial"? That is only 3 lines, I do not need four like this video talks about?
Best subpanel installation video I have seen! Thanks for all the amplifying information and shopping list. Most people at the big box stores do not provide the information.
I have done Electrical 35:23 Engineering but didn't work in the field. Starting watching the video and it's helping a lot. Thank you very much. Keep up doing a good job.
I'm thinking I would have come out of that panel on the right side and relocated (2) of the circuits to the MLO panel on the left so that all of the sub panel feeders are derived from the same feeder from the main. Sad that someone would wire a sub panel without an EGC but it's rewarding to know that good electricians can identify this issue and make it right. Nice video I enjoyed watching it.
Great video! I like how instead of you telling us what you think is correct, you have the professionals who KNOW what is correct doing the instruction! Time to go check out some of your other videos now!
Great vid, but there are a couple things that would be a great add, explain why are the breakers all on 1 side in the subpanel..(does it matter?), also what is the gauge on the wire from main to sub?, also How many breakers can you use in a sub box and how is the breaker amperage determined when choosing the breaker for the main box? Placement of the wires in the main box in terms of where does the Red hot go vs the black? …these would be great adds
Hey to answer a couple of your questions. The placement of the black or red dose not matter. With ac the polarity swaps 60 times a second(60 hz) as long as you keep the hot off the neutral bar your good
The size of sub panel is based on what ever you need. You can make it as big as the service breaker. You have 100amp coming in you can use a 100amp breaker it supply a 100 amp sub panel.
Breaker size dose not matter it is the service rating of your home. The is a calculated amount based off your square footage the size of oven and all other loads such as dryer ac and electric heat. As long as your new calculated service rating dose not go above the amps you have for your service your good.
This is an impressive video. Very organized and thorough and well thought out. I really like that, instead of just adding the usual "I'm not an electrician" disclaimer you actually brought a professional electrician in to do parts of the video. It's also very well filmed.
I'm a Master Electrician and started my apprenticeship in 1984. I'm pleased to see "my replacements" are being taught well and have pride in what they do! Keep up the great work! BTW , my clients are happy to pay for quality work. Don't let the naysayers dissuade you from doing your best!
Kudos to you for catching the derating. Your deox isn't required on an A8000 series alloy, which all aluminum wire is required to be since the 80's. It isn't bad to use though. It is only required when reworking old actual aluminum connections. And you got the supports within a foot of the box.
Thank you so much for this video. I'm doing a travel trailer remodel into a tiny home and we are ditching the distro panel for a breaker box so we can run more power into the unit and have full size appliances. This gives me the confidence to take the project on!!!
Thank you, watched your video twice so far and there is so much you show, exactly what needs to be done before move to the next step, always expressing safety mindfulness. Was unsure at first of switching (2)30amp double pole breakers to (2) 40 amp breakers after changing cable to (2) 8awg cables. have more confidence it is still code.
Finally, a video that actually shows how to do this without leaving out pertinent information or videos that contradict and confuse in the same damn video. I would guess if Google actually wanted t censor content for the safety of people watching, THIS would be the appropriate topic. I would hazard a guess that >90% of "sub panel" videos would be removed. Semper fi brother, but my chevrons had rifles not hammers there Devi Dog!
Lol I didn't catch that the first time watching. Me personally I use a robertson/square bit for real good torque but specs on receps arnt high like 15 to 20 ft pounds so it doesn't take much. Over tourquing is a thing btw and can damage conductors.
@8:04 Square D, and probably others, require you to remove 3 screws from the ground bar to install the lug adapter to ensure the full length of the lug is in contact with thr ground bar.
Thanks for another cool video, one thing I have to mention though is that how the sub panel is grounded is never mentioned. Yes the neutral is isolated from the box and a new ground bar is added but the box and that ground bar need to be connected to a real ground- ground bar into the earth, I.E.
Great video. I added a line to a QO 100amp sub box to power a GFCI and a security light and the first thing I did wrong was I got the wrong breaker. After getting the proper QO circuit breaker I was stumpped on how to wire it correctly. I was going to make the same mistake as this video. But I decided to look for a video explaining how to wire a the circuit breaker to the sub box. After looking for a half day on RUclips and Google. I found your video And it is the most extensive of all the videos on RUclips. Tomorrow I will be finishing the circuit breaker install. Thank you
Thank you for consolidating all of this information into a very professionally made video. I will have to be doing this installation soon, and this reference seems to be a good trustworthy one-stop-shop. As a courtesy for your efforts, I've also liked, subscribed, and clicked the bell for your channel. Thank you
I have severe ADD and usually learn by watching. I have to say this video and demonstration is so good I feel confident I could actually pull this off! Thank you for posting a great video! New subscriber ! ☺️
SER wire with an SEU connector. My local inspector would not be happy lol Love the videos and glad I found them. You guys are doing right! Hope your inspections are smooth. Here in New England they can be hard core!
Dude your video is amazing. I just saw it and you give practically all the info: what you can do and what you can not do according to the NEC. Thank you
Great info, great video, everything is here...to see and learn. you don't have to search any further and watch any others just come up with missing info.
SgtDonovan; you are doing a very good instruction and installation for you viewers excellent job. I couldn't get a better education in trade school thanks.
By the NEC 2020 Code , ALL 120 VAC 15 & 20 Amp branch circuits are to be on AFCI Breakers ! And if it's for Outside Receptacles , Garage Receptacles , Kitchen Receptacles and Bathroom receptacles , has to be on Combination AFCI & GFCI Breakers !!
Details so amazing. Best video on wire a sub panel. We are diving into an EV car(specially Tesla) and you should do a video on how to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet and also how to install a Tesla wall charger. You will have much more viewers and followers.
@@SgtDonovan They are many in here already but not that good, after I watched your RUclips and I knew that your will be much better than other out there.
Great video as usual, regarding installing a 50a breaker on my sub panel and specifically capcity. I have a new Tesla and want to add a 50a breaker on my garage 100a sub panel. Can you confirm that this is no-no please?
Sgt D. Thanks for the 411. Ssg Hall (82nd) is greatful. I O U a box of brand new crayons. Again. I am learning this new. I only know Aviation DC and Automotive DC from the Army. I am working hard to learn how to do this correctly to put electricity in my new LARGE shed 100ft from my house. I am watching a lot of videos, yours is very good friend. Semper Fi brother, thank you for the help. :D
Absolute amazing video, lot of information and well explained, I’m impressed, I looked everywhere to find information about this. I’m very grateful. Thank you do much.
I like your video. I put labels directly on the circuit breakers so I know which breakers are which even when the cover is off. (It only took me 20 years to figure that out!)
Really liked your video. I learned a lot. I saw that there is a maximum height for the sub panel box, is the a minimum height for the box? Thanks for your help.
This is a very well done video, I love the Shopping List you provided and the detail you put into making this Amazing video...Thank you! You have earned my Subscription.
i am now in a program to learn to become an electrician's apprentice. When ever I mention to my instructor (an old school electrician about the work in my house that I have done (including wiring a sub panel in my walk up attic) and that I have learned of a few things I could have done better, she reminds me that should only do work under a certified electrician. So I do appreciate that you discussed at least pulling a permit for things like the sub panel. The one thing that I think was bad though was the guy with the beard in the beginning who indicated that even if you don't know anything about being an electrician, this video will help you be able to do the job yourself. If you were to remake this tutorial, I recommend not saying that, and constantly reminded people to always work with the power off at the source, and then to check with a voltmeter at the new sub panel that there is indeed not power coming into it. Good mellow instructions though.
Be very careful sir. Insurance companies can withhold payments in the event of an electrical caused disaster if the legal paperwork (permits/inspections) are not done correctly. It might be possible for the legal payout to fall on the person that did the work along with the knowledge that your work may have injured someone. See if you can get your instructor to talk on that subject for a few minutes. That talk may save you and your classmates more than just money. Thanks.
Greetings - Nice video but there are some things folks need to consider. I will detail them here for your viewers. 1) The abrasion bushing is not required for use with cable, while it is above the minimums it is simply not necessary as the clamp will secure the cable in place. The bushings that are mandated via 300.4(G) or within the specific raceway articles are for abrasion while doing the install as well as after the install. Notice that 300.4(G) makes no mention of cable. 2) The use of Anti-Oxidation Paste is optional unless mandated by the manufacturer. In fact, none of the UL 67 listed panelboards require or are testing with anti-oxidant compounds. Now, that is also optional and above the minimum standards so the reason I mention this is not to let an inspector tell you otherwise. However, we at Electrical Code Academy, Inc. encourage its use. 3) You really should mention that all terminations MUST be torqued to a specific inch pound or foot pound depending on the termination size, this is part of 110.3(B) as the manufactures state these values on the labels in the cabinet but also as required in 110.14(D) as well. This is vital to the longevity of the termination due to conductor thermal expansion and contraction over time, too tight is equally as bad as too lose. 4) The panel your "electrician" is using is improperly wired as noted. However, he made a statement that he would come back and install a separate equipment grounding bus (terminal bar) but to do that he also would need to replace that SER Cable between the two enclosures since that would need to take place first before any new EGC bar was added otherwise it defeats the purpose and doesn't remove the improper case to neutral connection of 250.24(A)(5) from taking place. 5) Never use anything to "bang" in a circuit breaker. Just firm pressure as it could be a gapping issue that "banging" it in could create more issues, such as arching and poor surface contact due to gap displacement so push firm but never "BANG" it in place with the back of a hammer. Just some things for your viewers to think about......as the NEC is a minimum safety standard and going above the minimums are fine but maintaining the minimums are required. Semper Fi Soldier.
You're in my hood! I recognized this Lowes and the Lex Athletic Club as soon as it panned through. +1 sub - looking to put in a sub panel soon, thanks for all the info!
Very informative video. Thank your for sharing your knowledge. Question: In your video, you run a 4-wire cable from one subpanel to another subpanel. I take it that doing that is OK. Am I right?
Thanks for the helpful video, around how much would it cost to supply all the components, how much am I looking to spend in total more or less? Thank you
Missed something... I see that the first subpanel installation incorrectly cut the ground wire instead of separating it to its own bus in the subpanel. I also see that you've attempted to correct that by adding a seperate ground bus and and isolating the neutrals from it then connecting the ground wire from the new subpanel to it. But I didn't see where you returned the new corrected ground to the main panel. As far as I can tell, there is no ground returning either subpanel back to the main panel. Is that correct?
I know this was 4 months ago but I hate when a valid question goes unanswered. So the video doesn't actually show them fixing the issues with the existing subpanel. It cuts from him hooking up the wire in the existing subpanel abd explaining what was needed to fix it, to the new subpanel in the addition...you are correct in order to fix the existing subpanel they need to extend the ground to the main panel...
I need to install a 100 amp sub panel that's going about 175 feet from my house. I know I need feeder wire and was thinking about using aluminum wire but I keep getting conflicting information. Some say I need 2/0 aluminum feeder and some say 4/0 aluminum feeder. What would you recommend and should I just not be cheap and go with copper wire and if so what size? If you can give me any advice I would deeply appreciate you and it would be a blessing. Thank you and great video.
Pretty reasonable demonstration. A few comments: - I don't like all the extra RX inside the boxes - I usually get a length and cut back the RX THEN insert it into the panel or box so you're not reaching in trying to clip that stuff off in the back of a box. - Could have covered a few other things like how close staples need to be on the cable after exiting the box (a box that does not have internal clamps). - I also never liked putting more than one RX under a single clamp - I know its done all the time - but if I have the space - each run gets its own or I use the double clamps.
Why are you applying anti-ox compound? Its not required by the NEC, or the the wire MFG or the panel/lug MFG, and the wire does not oxidize unless your using wire from pre-1980. In the section of the video about connecting the sub panel to the main panel; It was said to add a grounding bar and move all the grounding wires to the bar. It should be noted, the grounding conductor coming into the panel as to be added first or it will be and ungrounded system. Torqueing per the MFG instruction and the NEC was also missed.
Very helpful and information. Buy why did he put a GFCI outlet on a GFCI breaker? Isn't the idea of a GFCI breaker that you don't have to buy expensive GFCI outlets to attach to them? Also, since that was a 20 amp breaker, shouldn't the outlet have a little horizontal slot to indicate that it is 20 amps visually?
Great video! I see that you used aluminum wiring. Do you need to add the antioxidant when using copper wire? Also, I need to add a sub panel in my house but the main panel is rated at 100 amps and is full. Can a 80 or 100 amp sub panel be added as I require a 220 volt circuits and 20 amp outlets for operating tools and equipment?
Well if you watched the video it says only needed with aluminum because copper can't be used. If you have to ask questions that are already answered you should prob hire someone this is dangerous if you aren't fully aware.
No you don’t use it on copper it won’t hurt but Just not needed. Also per code it’s not needed on the newer aluminum wire any more we use now days. It was needed for old school aluminum because it would heat up, but the stuff we use today is not pure aluminum so per code it’s not needed. But I do recommend it because it can help with corrosion especially if you live near the ocean like Florida or Cali …
Antioxidant isn't required on copper wire because even when it oxidizes, it does not lose any of it's conductivity. It's not even needed for Aluminum (AA-8000) but it doesn't hurt to use it. You can add a subpanel of any size since you'll be restricted by the breaker at the main panel. You can go with 100A for the subpanel but if your main is already full and you think it's not enough, would be best to upgrade to a 200A service.
Thank you my friend very well done you are a great teacher I will be installing 100-amp subpanel which will be 60 feet from the main panel any suggestion related to wire how many breakers does,or advisable for panel box 100 amp in your opinion. I hope something good happen for you today
Good overall... but my question is why show a subpanel run from another subpanel (that was wired incorrectly) instead of to the main panel which most people will be doing. I found this to be confusing.
Mainly cause main panel is full most time or it's easier to access. I think in this case there was more room? Idk but I believe that may be why and also he was gonna have to re work and add a ground and float the sub panel he is feeding from so why not lol
Exactly my question, and says to "add ground bar and remove the bond strap" with just an absent minded wave at the box, doesn't show wtf he's even talking about.
So I'm to understand, the box he's wiring at 17:00 was actually another sub panel? But if it was a real main panel, you would actually leave the bonding screw and ground connecting the ground and neutral? That part was actually quite confusing.
Quality Training! This is how it should be done! If I may, I would have liked to see a quick visual Matrix to show how to properly de-rate the cable if wanting an 80/100 Amp breaker. Subscribed!
James, I followed 2020 NEC from 310.14.(A).(3). To annex B and only found references to outside the NEC. I suspect his advice is both accurate and conservative and like you, would love to see a chart or way to calculate this. I suspect something use to be in the code books. If you find anything please let me know.
Yes very informative instructions, I couldn’t help notice how that guy running the electrical wiring sounds just like the doctor on that movie “The Thing” with Kurt Russell in it, 😅 bro you sound just like him
Thanx for the video, took notes and can wire a sub panel now. Needing one very bad in Mexico. So the #2 feeder being derated to 80 amps, does it matter how long of a run it is? Or does it drop the ams as it gets longer. I probably need to run about 60-70 feet. That's one project, the other would be, to run a feeder to our horse stalls for lighting and a work shop. Thank You, GOD Bless !
Hey Sarg, at about 06:35, your Master Electrician talked about de-rating or lowering the current rating of the wire when in insulation. Can you please ask him about this? I am studying for an exam and feel frustrated that I cannot find specifics in the code book other than 310.14 (A).(3). and a formula in 310.15 (B).(1). It sounded like he was giving some good conservative advice, I am just hoping for more information. Thanks Brother.
When sizing service feeders they just have to be able to handle 83% of the service ampacity so for a 100 amp service you need service conductors with an ampacity of 83 amps. if you go to the chart on 310.15b16 you find al #2 in the 75 degree column (because SER cable shown here has XHHW-2 conductors which are rated at 90 degree but your terminals limit you to 75 degree) has an ampacity of 90 amps. Now i too see nowhere it talks about "ran through insulation" in the code book for derating factors. With no mention of ambient temperature correction, voltage drop and there are no more than 3 current carrying conductors I don't see why to derate to 80 amps 90 should be acceptable but if someone find where this is a code reference would be helpful.
Always wear gloves and tape all of your screwdrivers to the hilt. And NEVER PILE TOOLS BELOW THE BUSS BAR IN A HOT PANEL..... BOOM.....you'll thank me!!!!
Great video thank you for your Service…Do you have any videos on installing a electric sub panel out doors or running electric from main to pool equipment
Great video! Very clear, love the context and reasons for, details. some additional detail for a garage sub panel to install multiple 240v outlets is what im looking for. Washer dryer circuit, 220amp welder and perhaps another for mobility. Will a standard sub like in your vid work? What are the wiring reqs and is the run similar to a 110v outlet or would you want the washer on a separate circuit while the welder and other outlets are on the same?
Just a quick question, you are feeding a sub panel off of an existing sub panel ? What is the amp rating of the first sub panel, and why would you not correct the bonding issue before connecting the second sub panel to it ?
You make a good point and we did address that in the video. That four wire SER cable needs to be replaced or if you can do a good job on splicing that ground wire on each end you could also do that. We chose to splice the wire with an irreversible crimp lug.
Great video. Thank you. Just a clarification: Isn't it best to use copper service wire rather than aluminum? I've heard and seen horror stories about fires.
yes copper is a better conductor but aluminum is typically used for service wires in almost all new builds with proper deoxidant paste on al rated lugs the main problem is in older 70s homes where aluminum was used for branch circuits through the home and improper connections are made in outlet and switch boxes. but even with branch if proper connections are made with the aluminum wiring it is just fine and safe
@@Bradley-tx6ed Thank you for clarifying. I'll stick with copper for branch, though. A small house on our property burned to the ground due to (unpermitted) aluminum wiring. No one was hurt, thankfully, and it happened before we bought the property. Still it serves as a reminder to us to spend the extra money on copper branch circuitry on our new builds. We look at it every day through the window of our cabin. Sobering.
I'm with you on using copper. In the midst of installing my generator I was given 15 ft of aluminum SER. I opted to bite the bullet and go with copper. The ONLY advantage I see in going with aluminum is that it's cheaper. My peace of mind is worth the added cost of using copper.
@@deirdre444 old aluminum wiring from the 60s caused house fires due to oxidization. Since about the 80s the aluminum sold is an alloy and could even be used without noalox depending on manufacturer instruction. The only advantage copper has is the ampacity advantage, aluminum is cheaper and easier to work with. Your homes utility wire is most likely aluminum
@@Nick-bh1fy I live in a cabin with no wiring yet. I will be installing an electrical system myself, hence the question I posed. Thanks for the input. :)
This video is amazing, however what wire should I used for 100 amp sub panel if I need to bury it between the main and the sub panel.?(House to Workshop) As the wire you suggested cannot be buried at all.
I feel as though I can trust this information. That means a lot. Semper Fi
You can. He catches details like derating the SER because its a feeder and securing the romex within 1 foot of the panel that most electricians I know miss.
DO I HAVE TO USE 1/0 CABLE (3 TRIPLEX) OR 4/0 (4PLEX) FOR CALIFORNIA PGE PANEL UPGRADE? THE ONE FROM THE POLE TO MY HOUSE IS 3TRIPLEX 1/0 CABLE!! PLEASE HELP
@@michael7324 if i wanted to hire an electrician and pay $300/hr, i would not be here!! lol
@@infoinfo3594 Maybe you should ASK an electrician. I sir am not...
Sempre Fi
I'm an electrical engineer but not an electrician. I've wired several houses and various projects but don't do it enough to remember all the details. These videos are great for that, especially from someone who is a professional everyday person. Everything he's done is exactly how I do it and that's refreshing knowing I'm doing it right. Funny story...my dad, also an electrical engineer, but not an electrician was wiring an addition to the house, and I was helping. I was around 12-13 and for the next 20 years thinking "white" was hot and "black" was neutral. I was changing a plug on the 2nd floor and didn't bother killing the circuit. Instead, I just remembered to NOT touch the white wire. When it came to the black wire...well, I was "shocked". An electrician friend finally clued me in. Fast forward another 10 years and while talking to my dad, I told him what my electrician friend told me. He started snickering and said he ended up going back and rewiring the addition, black to hot. Needless to say, I was "shocked" again and told him my experience asked if he didn't think it important letting me know he taught me wrong, instead of me learning the hard way? He kept snickering....
Dad is a demon lol
My Dad and I were always super close growing up. He was able to run his hand along an animal electric fence, I think he could even grab it? He told me it didn’t hurt. You guessed it, I trusted him, got the stuffing knocked out if me. I was so mad I didn’t want to go home
55 years in the trade as a State Licensed Journeyman Electrician / Sub Contractor and the only time that I have ever used Aluminum Wiring was for a underground feeder from the Outside 120/240 VAC 200 Amp Meter base on a Power pole to a Main Panel ! And that was a USE Triplex Direct Burial cable approved by the Power Company and AHJ . I sleeved it in 2 '' Schedule 80 PVC Conduit buried 24 '' below grade for a 50' run .
For example Main House panel to Workshop 100 amp sub panel the direct burial cable you would use is "Triplex Direct Burial"? That is only 3 lines, I do not need four like this video talks about?
@@adampricer6131 you do need 4-wire
Thanks for listing out your entire resume and work experience 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Man, you took all the guess work out of it Sgt.
From a retired Lt Col. Many Thanks !
Wulfy
I'm learning what I need to do from this video. Hope I don't burn the place down. Wish me luck boys.
Hope it turned out ok.
Well?
@@justinscottholbrook5089 update the house did not burn down. Everything went swimmingly and this video was very informative
Best subpanel installation video I have seen! Thanks for all the amplifying information and shopping list. Most people at the big box stores do not provide the information.
If the folks working at the big box store know what they're doing, they wouldn't be working at the big box store.
Yep watched a number of them and they were missing something. This is THOROUGH 😊😊😊
I have done Electrical 35:23 Engineering but didn't work in the field. Starting watching the video and it's helping a lot. Thank you very much. Keep up doing a good job.
40 seconds into the video and I'm already liking it and subscribing
I'm thinking I would have come out of that panel on the right side and relocated (2) of the circuits to the MLO panel on the left so that all of the sub panel feeders are derived from the same feeder from the main. Sad that someone would wire a sub panel without an EGC but it's rewarding to know that good electricians can identify this issue and make it right. Nice video I enjoyed watching it.
Great video! I like how instead of you telling us what you think is correct, you have the professionals who KNOW what is correct doing the instruction! Time to go check out some of your other videos now!
I just started watching this video and I paused it just to say Thank you. Great Job!
Great vid, but there are a couple things that would be a great add, explain why are the breakers all on 1 side in the subpanel..(does it matter?), also what is the gauge on the wire from main to sub?, also How many breakers can you use in a sub box and how is the breaker amperage determined when choosing the breaker for the main box? Placement of the wires in the main box in terms of where does the Red hot go vs the black? …these would be great adds
Hey to answer a couple of your questions. The placement of the black or red dose not matter. With ac the polarity swaps 60 times a second(60 hz) as long as you keep the hot off the neutral bar your good
The side or location of breakers do not matter you can put them in any order.
The size of sub panel is based on what ever you need. You can make it as big as the service breaker. You have 100amp coming in you can use a 100amp breaker it supply a 100 amp sub panel.
Breaker size dose not matter it is the service rating of your home. The is a calculated amount based off your square footage the size of oven and all other loads such as dryer ac and electric heat. As long as your new calculated service rating dose not go above the amps you have for your service your good.
The gage of wire is based on the size of your service going in.100 amp sub panel will need a larger wire than a 60 amp sub panel.
This is an impressive video. Very organized and thorough and well thought out. I really like that, instead of just adding the usual "I'm not an electrician" disclaimer you actually brought a professional electrician in to do parts of the video. It's also very well filmed.
This was a really good watch. Very informative, especially for someone that's a little too scared of electricity.
I learned alot watching this guy do his work. He obviously has done this before. Thanks for making this.
I'm a Master Electrician and started my apprenticeship in 1984. I'm pleased to see "my replacements" are being taught well and have pride in what they do! Keep up the great work!
BTW , my clients are happy to pay for quality work. Don't let the naysayers dissuade you from doing your best!
I recommend hooking up the sub feed last. It makes installing the other wires much easier.
Easier and much safer. No lock out required
Kudos to you for catching the derating. Your deox isn't required on an A8000 series alloy, which all aluminum wire is required to be since the 80's. It isn't bad to use though. It is only required when reworking old actual aluminum connections.
And you got the supports within a foot of the box.
Why he derrated? Cause of the SE cable?
@Rayray He said he went thru insulation. I'm sure there is the distance factor as well.
Great electrical instructions. Very precise and easy to understand and especially without dumb music in the background.
This is an AMAZING amount of material... you should be an instructor! SO well done!
Thanks for making this video, it was just what I needed to see how to wire a sub panel in my garage!!!!!!!! Great job !!!!!!!!!
Thank you so much for this video. I'm doing a travel trailer remodel into a tiny home and we are ditching the distro panel for a breaker box so we can run more power into the unit and have full size appliances. This gives me the confidence to take the project on!!!
Thank you, watched your video twice so far and there is so much you show, exactly what needs to be done before move to the next step, always expressing safety mindfulness. Was unsure at first of switching (2)30amp double pole breakers to (2) 40 amp breakers after changing cable to (2) 8awg cables. have more confidence it is still code.
I just love the use of a torque driver on the connections.
Hey man. This is really nice of you. This took some effort. I can tell you always put the best foot forward.
Finally, a video that actually shows how to do this without leaving out pertinent information or videos that contradict and confuse in the same damn video. I would guess if Google actually wanted t censor content for the safety of people watching, THIS would be the appropriate topic. I would hazard a guess that >90% of "sub panel" videos would be removed. Semper fi brother, but my chevrons had rifles not hammers there Devi Dog!
❤❤❤❤❤ Engineer
I love your skill, please share more video on the secret behind negative and positive wiring.
Thanks
Most underated electrical video
Well organized… thank you for quality professional production.
Excellent video! However, at 32:40, I do think the Electrician needs a longer screwdriver, to tighten the terminals on the GFCI receptacle.
Lol I didn't catch that the first time watching. Me personally I use a robertson/square bit for real good torque but specs on receps arnt high like 15 to 20 ft pounds so it doesn't take much. Over tourquing is a thing btw and can damage conductors.
@8:04 Square D, and probably others, require you to remove 3 screws from the ground bar to install the lug adapter to ensure the full length of the lug is in contact with thr ground bar.
Thanks for another cool video, one thing I have to mention though is that how the sub panel is grounded is never mentioned. Yes the neutral is isolated from the box and a new ground bar is added but the box and that ground bar need to be connected to a real ground- ground bar into the earth, I.E.
Thanks!
Great video. I added a line to a QO 100amp sub box to power a GFCI and a security light and the first thing I did wrong was I got the wrong breaker.
After getting the proper QO circuit breaker I was stumpped on how to wire it correctly.
I was going to make the same mistake as this video. But I decided to look for a video explaining how to wire a the circuit breaker to the sub box.
After looking for a half day on RUclips and Google.
I found your video And it is the most extensive of all the videos on RUclips.
Tomorrow I will be finishing the circuit breaker install. Thank you
Thank you for consolidating all of this information into a very professionally made video. I will have to be doing this installation soon, and this reference seems to be a good trustworthy one-stop-shop. As a courtesy for your efforts, I've also liked, subscribed, and clicked the bell for your channel. Thank you
No
I have severe ADD and usually learn by watching. I have to say this video and demonstration is so good I feel confident I could actually pull this off!
Thank you for posting a great video! New subscriber ! ☺️
The amount of work and attention to detail in this is incredible.
SER wire with an SEU connector. My local inspector would not be happy lol
Love the videos and glad I found them. You guys are doing right!
Hope your inspections are smooth. Here in New England they can be hard core!
Where do you find the 200 amp set connector
Dude your video is amazing. I just saw it and you give practically all the info: what you can do and what you can not do according to the NEC. Thank you
That’s an amazing teaching. I think I know how to do it by watch once of this video
Thanks for the information. Love the channel. Wish I could’ve seen how you powered the sub-panel.
Great info, great video, everything is here...to see and learn. you don't have to search any further and watch any others just come up with missing info.
A lot of great info being presented in a way that is very easy to understand. Well done.
I wish I would have watched this video first! Very well done!
SgtDonovan; you are doing a very good instruction and installation for you viewers excellent job. I couldn't get a better education in trade school thanks.
By the NEC 2020 Code , ALL 120 VAC 15 & 20 Amp branch circuits are to be on AFCI Breakers ! And if it's for Outside Receptacles , Garage Receptacles , Kitchen Receptacles and Bathroom receptacles , has to be on Combination AFCI & GFCI Breakers !!
Not exactly but okay
@@electricaf365 ; Yes, EXACTLY because it is CODE !!!!
@@electricaf365I was worried this was true, can you explain why it isn't?
Details so amazing. Best video on wire a sub panel. We are diving into an EV car(specially Tesla) and you should do a video on how to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet and also how to install a Tesla wall charger. You will have much more viewers and followers.
Great idea! Thanks!
@@SgtDonovan They are many in here already but not that good, after I watched your RUclips and I knew that your will be much better than other out there.
Great video as usual, regarding installing a 50a breaker on my sub panel and specifically capcity. I have a new Tesla and want to add a 50a breaker on my garage 100a sub panel. Can you confirm that this is no-no please?
Nice video. My suggestion is to use insulated staples, and also to have a torque wrench for use on lugs with torque spec requirements in the panels.
Sgt D. Thanks for the 411. Ssg Hall (82nd) is greatful. I O U a box of brand new crayons.
Again. I am learning this new. I only know Aviation DC and Automotive DC from the Army. I am working hard to learn how to do this correctly to put electricity in my new LARGE shed 100ft from my house. I am watching a lot of videos, yours is very good friend. Semper Fi brother, thank you for the help. :D
Excellent video explaining sub panels, wire sizing, etc. I am curious as to why you installed a 15 amp GFCI receptacle on the 20 A circuit.
Subscribed and liked to support a fellow veteran!
Absolute amazing video, lot of information and well explained, I’m impressed, I looked everywhere to find information about this. I’m very grateful.
Thank you do much.
I like your video. I put labels directly on the circuit breakers so I know which breakers are which even when the cover is off. (It only took me 20 years to figure that out!)
What a GD great channel! Sub. Excellent work. Your monologue was like it was for me personally. Imma a 15 vet . SF!!
Really liked your video. I learned a lot. I saw that there is a maximum height for the sub panel box, is the a minimum height for the box? Thanks for your help.
This video is the video I should’ve watched a long time ago
I don't need an electrician after watching that.
well explained, from one Donovan to another
I like this video. It's explanations are simple and logical to remember.
I always strip the jacket off conductors , romex and feeders nice and square, them feed them into the connector clamp, makes a more professional look!
Great video but how did the neutral wire connect into the neutral bar that wire is thicker I didn’t see how it was connected thank you
This is a very well done video, I love the Shopping List you provided and the detail you put into making this Amazing video...Thank you! You have earned my Subscription.
i am now in a program to learn to become an electrician's apprentice. When ever I mention to my instructor (an old school electrician about the work in my house that I have done (including wiring a sub panel in my walk up attic) and that I have learned of a few things I could have done better, she reminds me that should only do work under a certified electrician. So I do appreciate that you discussed at least pulling a permit for things like the sub panel. The one thing that I think was bad though was the guy with the beard in the beginning who indicated that even if you don't know anything about being an electrician, this video will help you be able to do the job yourself. If you were to remake this tutorial, I recommend not saying that, and constantly reminded people to always work with the power off at the source, and then to check with a voltmeter at the new sub panel that there is indeed not power coming into it. Good mellow instructions though.
I hear you.. -guy with beard
Be very careful sir. Insurance companies can withhold payments in the event of an electrical caused disaster if the legal paperwork (permits/inspections) are not done correctly. It might be possible for the legal payout to fall on the person that did the work along with the knowledge that your work may have injured someone.
See if you can get your instructor to talk on that subject for a few minutes. That talk may save you and your classmates more than just money.
Thanks.
Greetings - Nice video but there are some things folks need to consider. I will detail them here for your viewers. 1) The abrasion bushing is not required for use with cable, while it is above the minimums it is simply not necessary as the clamp will secure the cable in place. The bushings that are mandated via 300.4(G) or within the specific raceway articles are for abrasion while doing the install as well as after the install. Notice that 300.4(G) makes no mention of cable. 2) The use of Anti-Oxidation Paste is optional unless mandated by the manufacturer. In fact, none of the UL 67 listed panelboards require or are testing with anti-oxidant compounds. Now, that is also optional and above the minimum standards so the reason I mention this is not to let an inspector tell you otherwise. However, we at Electrical Code Academy, Inc. encourage its use. 3) You really should mention that all terminations MUST be torqued to a specific inch pound or foot pound depending on the termination size, this is part of 110.3(B) as the manufactures state these values on the labels in the cabinet but also as required in 110.14(D) as well. This is vital to the longevity of the termination due to conductor thermal expansion and contraction over time, too tight is equally as bad as too lose. 4) The panel your "electrician" is using is improperly wired as noted. However, he made a statement that he would come back and install a separate equipment grounding bus (terminal bar) but to do that he also would need to replace that SER Cable between the two enclosures since that would need to take place first before any new EGC bar was added otherwise it defeats the purpose and doesn't remove the improper case to neutral connection of 250.24(A)(5) from taking place. 5) Never use anything to "bang" in a circuit breaker. Just firm pressure as it could be a gapping issue that "banging" it in could create more issues, such as arching and poor surface contact due to gap displacement so push firm but never "BANG" it in place with the back of a hammer. Just some things for your viewers to think about......as the NEC is a minimum safety standard and going above the minimums are fine but maintaining the minimums are required. Semper Fi Soldier.
You're in my hood! I recognized this Lowes and the Lex Athletic Club as soon as it panned through. +1 sub - looking to put in a sub panel soon, thanks for all the info!
Good eye!
No idea what your other vids are, but I sub'd because I want to see them!!! Thanks!
Very informative video. Thank your for sharing your knowledge.
Question: In your video, you run a 4-wire cable from one subpanel to another subpanel. I take it that doing that is OK. Am I right?
This the best video I have seen by far ty
Liked the video a lot. But where did the three black wires in the sub panel go? the ones not hook up?
Thanks for the helpful video, around how much would it cost to supply all the components, how much am I looking to spend in total more or less? Thank you
Whats with all the noalox? Kinda goupy. I thought a very thin coating was best, as its not very conductive?
2 mins in. I've like and subscribed. The real deal.
Missed something... I see that the first subpanel installation incorrectly cut the ground wire instead of separating it to its own bus in the subpanel. I also see that you've attempted to correct that by adding a seperate ground bus and and isolating the neutrals from it then connecting the ground wire from the new subpanel to it. But I didn't see where you returned the new corrected ground to the main panel. As far as I can tell, there is no ground returning either subpanel back to the main panel. Is that correct?
I know this was 4 months ago but I hate when a valid question goes unanswered. So the video doesn't actually show them fixing the issues with the existing subpanel. It cuts from him hooking up the wire in the existing subpanel abd explaining what was needed to fix it, to the new subpanel in the addition...you are correct in order to fix the existing subpanel they need to extend the ground to the main panel...
I need to install a 100 amp sub panel that's going about 175 feet from my house. I know I need feeder wire and was thinking about using aluminum wire but I keep getting conflicting information. Some say I need 2/0 aluminum feeder and some say 4/0 aluminum feeder. What would you recommend and should I just not be cheap and go with copper wire and if so what size? If you can give me any advice I would deeply appreciate you and it would be a blessing. Thank you and great video.
Pretty reasonable demonstration.
A few comments:
- I don't like all the extra RX inside the boxes - I usually get a length and cut back the RX THEN insert it into the panel or box so you're not reaching in trying to clip that stuff off in the back of a box.
- Could have covered a few other things like how close staples need to be on the cable after exiting the box (a box that does not have internal clamps).
- I also never liked putting more than one RX under a single clamp - I know its done all the time - but if I have the space - each run gets its own or I use the double clamps.
I appreciate the feedback and tips. I especially appreciate how you were respectful and kind!
Why are you applying anti-ox compound? Its not required by the NEC, or the the wire MFG or the panel/lug MFG, and the wire does not oxidize unless your using wire from pre-1980.
In the section of the video about connecting the sub panel to the main panel; It was said to add a grounding bar and move all the grounding wires to the bar. It should be noted, the grounding conductor coming into the panel as to be added first or it will be and ungrounded system.
Torqueing per the MFG instruction and the NEC was also missed.
Nice. Should have watched this before I blew the main 200 amp breaker with panel screw touching a cable.
Very helpful and information. Buy why did he put a GFCI outlet on a GFCI breaker? Isn't the idea of a GFCI breaker that you don't have to buy expensive GFCI outlets to attach to them? Also, since that was a 20 amp breaker, shouldn't the outlet have a little horizontal slot to indicate that it is 20 amps visually?
I can appreciate your level of OCD!
¡Semper Utile!
Great video! I see that you used aluminum wiring. Do you need to add the antioxidant when using copper wire? Also, I need to add a sub panel in my house but the main panel is rated at 100 amps and is full. Can a 80 or 100 amp sub panel be added as I require a 220 volt circuits and 20 amp outlets for operating tools and equipment?
Well if you watched the video it says only needed with aluminum because copper can't be used. If you have to ask questions that are already answered you should prob hire someone this is dangerous if you aren't fully aware.
No you don’t use it on copper it won’t hurt but Just not needed. Also per code it’s not needed on the newer aluminum wire any more we use now days. It was needed for old school aluminum because it would heat up, but the stuff we use today is not pure aluminum so per code it’s not needed. But I do recommend it because it can help with corrosion especially if you live near the ocean like Florida or Cali …
Antioxidant isn't required on copper wire because even when it oxidizes, it does not lose any of it's conductivity. It's not even needed for Aluminum (AA-8000) but it doesn't hurt to use it. You can add a subpanel of any size since you'll be restricted by the breaker at the main panel. You can go with 100A for the subpanel but if your main is already full and you think it's not enough, would be best to upgrade to a 200A service.
This is an amazing tutorial. Thank you for all the thought and work you put into this it really helped.
Thanks!
Thank you my friend very well done you are a great teacher I will be installing 100-amp subpanel which will be 60 feet from the main panel any suggestion related to wire how many breakers does,or advisable for panel box 100 amp in your opinion.
I hope something good happen for you today
Good overall... but my question is why show a subpanel run from another subpanel (that was wired incorrectly) instead of to the main panel which most people will be doing. I found this to be confusing.
Mainly cause main panel is full most time or it's easier to access. I think in this case there was more room? Idk but I believe that may be why and also he was gonna have to re work and add a ground and float the sub panel he is feeding from so why not lol
Exactly my question, and says to "add ground bar and remove the bond strap" with just an absent minded wave at the box, doesn't show wtf he's even talking about.
So I'm to understand, the box he's wiring at 17:00 was actually another sub panel? But if it was a real main panel, you would actually leave the bonding screw and ground connecting the ground and neutral? That part was actually quite confusing.
Same issue I have with this video. Moving onto the next video and this one is getting a thumbsdown from me.
The excellent laborer has a few videos with a little more detail. I think might help you out.
Quality Training! This is how it should be done!
If I may, I would have liked to see a quick visual Matrix to show how to properly de-rate the cable if wanting an 80/100 Amp breaker.
Subscribed!
James, I followed 2020 NEC from 310.14.(A).(3). To annex B and only found references to outside the NEC. I suspect his advice is both accurate and conservative and like you, would love to see a chart or way to calculate this. I suspect something use to be in the code books. If you find anything please let me know.
Yes very informative instructions, I couldn’t help notice how that guy running the electrical wiring sounds just like the doctor on that movie “The Thing” with Kurt Russell in it, 😅 bro you sound just like him
If you were wiring a subpanel in a detached garage, do you need a separate grounding Rod for that subpanel?
Thanx for the video, took notes and can wire a sub panel now. Needing one very bad in Mexico. So the #2 feeder being derated to 80 amps, does it matter how long of a run it is? Or does it drop the ams as it gets longer. I probably need to run about 60-70 feet. That's one project, the other would be, to run a feeder to our horse stalls for lighting and a work shop. Thank You, GOD Bless !
Hey Sarg, at about 06:35, your Master Electrician talked about de-rating or lowering the current rating of the wire when in insulation. Can you please ask him about this? I am studying for an exam and feel frustrated that I cannot find specifics in the code book other than 310.14 (A).(3). and a formula in 310.15 (B).(1).
It sounded like he was giving some good conservative advice, I am just hoping for more information.
Thanks Brother.
When sizing service feeders they just have to be able to handle 83% of the service ampacity so for a 100 amp service you need service conductors with an ampacity of 83 amps. if you go to the chart on 310.15b16 you find al #2 in the 75 degree column (because SER cable shown here has XHHW-2 conductors which are rated at 90 degree but your terminals limit you to 75 degree) has an ampacity of 90 amps. Now i too see nowhere it talks about "ran through insulation" in the code book for derating factors. With no mention of ambient temperature correction, voltage drop and there are no more than 3 current carrying conductors I don't see why to derate to 80 amps 90 should be acceptable but if someone find where this is a code reference would be helpful.
Excellent tutorial and I learned something even I’m not an electrician 👍
Always wear gloves and tape all of your screwdrivers to the hilt. And NEVER PILE TOOLS BELOW THE BUSS BAR IN A HOT PANEL.....
BOOM.....you'll thank me!!!!
Great video thank you for your Service…Do you have any videos on installing a electric sub panel out doors or running electric from main to pool equipment
Can SER cable be run without conduit in a basement Inside the walls for a subpanel...?
Yes
@@electricaf365 this means yes to my question ...?
Great video! Very clear, love the context and reasons for, details. some additional detail for a garage sub panel to install multiple 240v outlets is what im looking for. Washer dryer circuit, 220amp welder and perhaps another for mobility. Will a standard sub like in your vid work? What are the wiring reqs and is the run similar to a 110v outlet or would you want the washer on a separate circuit while the welder and other outlets are on the same?
Just a quick question, you are feeding a sub panel off of an existing sub panel ?
What is the amp rating of the first sub panel, and why would you not correct the
bonding issue before connecting the second sub panel to it ?
You make a good point and we did address that in the video. That four wire SER cable needs to be replaced or if you can do a good job on splicing that ground wire on each end you could also do that. We chose to splice the wire with an irreversible crimp lug.
Great video. Thank you. Just a clarification: Isn't it best to use copper service wire rather than aluminum? I've heard and seen horror stories about fires.
yes copper is a better conductor but aluminum is typically used for service wires in almost all new builds with proper deoxidant paste on al rated lugs the main problem is in older 70s homes where aluminum was used for branch circuits through the home and improper connections are made in outlet and switch boxes. but even with branch if proper connections are made with the aluminum wiring it is just fine and safe
@@Bradley-tx6ed Thank you for clarifying. I'll stick with copper for branch, though. A small house on our property burned to the ground due to (unpermitted) aluminum wiring. No one was hurt, thankfully, and it happened before we bought the property. Still it serves as a reminder to us to spend the extra money on copper branch circuitry on our new builds. We look at it every day through the window of our cabin. Sobering.
I'm with you on using copper. In the midst of installing my generator I was given 15 ft of aluminum SER. I opted to bite the bullet and go with copper. The ONLY advantage I see in going with aluminum is that it's cheaper. My peace of mind is worth the added cost of using copper.
@@deirdre444 old aluminum wiring from the 60s caused house fires due to oxidization. Since about the 80s the aluminum sold is an alloy and could even be used without noalox depending on manufacturer instruction. The only advantage copper has is the ampacity advantage, aluminum is cheaper and easier to work with. Your homes utility wire is most likely aluminum
@@Nick-bh1fy I live in a cabin with no wiring yet. I will be installing an electrical system myself, hence the question I posed. Thanks for the input. :)
I see the screws that are holding the panel against the wall, are those screws grounded since they are touching the panel?
How did you fix the 1st sub panel ground that was cut?
Thanks for the video. Question what if the current panel has no space left for additional breakers of the sub panel?
Thank you for your insight brother... I fly drones also... Just ran in 17.75k Quantico March 25th
I’d like to know how he fixed that cut off ground in the sub panel feeder.
Install a seperate ground from the main panel to the existing sub.
This video is amazing, however what wire should I used for 100 amp sub panel if I need to bury it between the main and the sub panel.?(House to Workshop) As the wire you suggested cannot be buried at all.
oh thank god. slow and precise. worth every second. thank you!!!