I had a licensed master electrician wire a similar interlock and generator feed line to my main electrical circuit breaker box years ago. I consider it some of the best money I have spent on improving my home. I have not needed to do this many times (few power outages, thank God) but it is pretty awesome to run my entire home off the generator in an emergency. Thank you for another wonderful video!
That is awesome, I am amazed at how many people rig unsafe stuff. These things will last longer than the next 20 iphones thAt are released. Money well spent.
@@infiltretor287 it was supposed to be $200 but I believe he charged me $400. That included the 20 foot of cable to hook up the generator to the house. Worth it to me. No regrets.
Well done Silver. I did the exact job a year ago after watching more than a dozen different RUclips videos; mine is below the main panel but on the outside of the house. The beauty of your video is that it’s a “one stop shop” of everything needed to safely install the inlet box. Thanks for all the help; I always find value in your videos!
Having installed many of these, AND consulting customers, the BEST course of action is ... Only install 6/3 wire from inlet box to breaker panel, someday you will want to UPGRADE to a larger generator (50 amps) (electric start) making it easier for a spouse or kids to facilitate the starting of the generator if you're not home when emergency arises. Always put inlet box OUTSIDE allowing plenty distance AWAY from house (windows, vents etc ) also consider installing an outdoor 120 volt service box (receptacle) to charge your generators starting battery BEFORE THE STORM hits. TYPE OUT IN LARGE letters an instruction sheet so ALL family members can follow procedures to start generator. Have flashlights strategically located to start generator IN THE DARK. Keep FRESH fuel supply in stock , plus oil change, air filter and spark plugs WITH dedicated tools on site . Do you want to go shopping at 3 am in an ice storm for a spark plug to start a generator to keep your furnace on ? (Or send the spouse 😅 ? )
If I may add to that, you can usually buy a replacement carburetor for less than $50, it's my experience a gummed up carb is the first item to give you trouble! So many people are so glad to get utility power back on they just pust the generator in storage without running all the fuel out of carb before storage! I keep my generator ready always but I have an extra carb just in case!
Why does it have to be outside? I own an apartment where the breaker box is on an inside wall. Technically there is a way to run the line to the outside but it will be a mess to do it. I don't mind running a 30 ft cord to the breaker box leaving the door open. In the case of a power outage we will not be in that room. Is there a problem with this as far as code goes or are you just giving advice?
@@baruchfishman1874Gas generators give off CO2. Not a good thing to have indoors. For everything else, it's probably a good idea to keep everything as far away from the structure in case things go south and you end up with a short circuit.
I always flip all the breakers off on my sub panel and I have the breaker on the generator turned off as well. I go out and start the generator, flip the breaker on after about 30 seconds. Then by the time I get inside I can start flipping breakers on one by one. Great video overall for someone looking to do this too.
This is what I will do when installed. Certain things don't need to run when on generators. We have slowly went to LEDs when ever possible to prevent overburdening our generator.
@@douglashaner6802 I have a 6250 running watt portable generator. It's been fantastic. I even run my hybrid water heater and well pump off of it. I wish I put the dishwasher on it (turn heating element off when using) and a bathroom circuit on it. I could do it but i don't mind enough to really bother. We do lose power a ton. If I touch the panels again it will be to install whole house backup batteries.
When we built our house we had the electrical contractor wire in a transfer switch. Nice and safe that way and relatively cheap while your doing new construction
I'm a licensed electrician and I'd hire you to do this work for me. 100% legal and done in a workmanlike matter. The only thing I do differently is I like to, locate this inlet device box on the exterior to deter a homeowner from setting up and running their generator indoors. It's not a code violation to install the inlet indoors however.
Isn't the neutral being bonded in the panel and also being bonded in the generator a problem? I know it's a code violation to have a neutral to ground bond in more than 1 location. Shouldn't the generator be a floating neutral?
@@alexnone3374 you must have amazing vision if you could see that sticker on the generator of the electrician that I was replying to through your computer monitor, through your internet line and to wherever his generator is stored. I'm asking Ron about something that is overlooked by 95% of the people making this connection. It's not even mentioned in this video at all but it is important. Most portable generators are bonded neutral which would be no good in this situation, it needs to be a floating neutral and it is not mentioned at all in this video or most videos showing how to do this. So for people that don't know, they will be doing it the wrong way not knowingly. And yes I see the label on this generator in the video but there is no mention of it at all in a video that's supposed to be teaching people how to do it.
We built in 16’ and had our electrician install an interlock switch in our breaker panel and a 30 watt outlet on the back outside wall of the garage. I keep my portable generator in my shed which is just a few feet from my garage so it makes it easy to get out and set up. I haven’t had to use it yet but it’s there if I do. I have a maintenance schedule for my power equipment which includes firing up the generator to ensure it works when called upon.
I installed a subpanel with 3-way rocker switches right underneath the breaker box. 1 position is fed from the generator, one position is not fed at all, and the other position is fed from the street. That way the generator and the street will always remain separated.
I wish more folks would do this correctly like you show. I’m a home inspector and have seen many houses with the inlet box and NO interlock kit!! Even with dead man’s cables plugged into the dryer 240 volt outlets. Tragedy waiting to happen. Do it right, if you can’t… hire someone and practice when there is no power outage, not when there is an outage….you have to practice/ prepare, have fuel stored safely, change the oil after 55/60 hours and ride out the storm with power and if you have soft start kits on your central AC units you can have AC too.
Great video! I did the same for my house, but you should address the generator you're using for this setup. It has to be a floating neutral one vs bonded neutral if you're not also disconnecting the neutral leg from utility (very rare). Most generators there is a way to unbond it, and there are warning stickers you'd need to label the inlet and generator to be within code.
I saved 50 bucks by making my own interlock using a piece of 1/8” soft but rigid plate aluminum. Either take accurate measurements or copy them from other kits. Works like a charm⚡️
Thank you! I was going to upgrade my 30A on the outside, but you made me realize that I can put a second 50A inside the garage. This saves me from fishing the new wire.
Super. In an emergency, if you only have a 120 volt generator, you can temporarily connect to both line 1 and line 2 as long as all 240 volt two pole breakers like the dryer, stove, and sub panel breakers are ALL turned off, as well as the main breaker. I have a short cnnversion cord that allows a 120 volt generator to connect to both poles of a 240 volt 30 ampere inlet from a standard extension cord, powering all 120 volt breakers, but you have to make sure to shut off, or not use, any 240 volt items. I have two inlets to my panel, along with the main/generator lockout, (More money = auto transfer switch) however, I have two inlet plugs, 120 volt × 20 ampere and 240 volt × 30 ampere connected to a 30 ampere transfer switch, so i can plug into most generators. I also have a large deep cycle 12 volt RV battery permanently hooked to a 1500 watt inverter, and a trickle charger, on a cart, which I can plug in to for quick emergencies. (20 ampere inlet.) The battery will run my hot water heating boiler, thermostat, pump, and valves for three days, which is longer than my generator runs on one tank of fuel. 💙 T.E.N.
This is a great video! Very nicely done! The one thing that I would add is to test the circuits once you have everything installed. You only have 30 amps to work with, so it's good to put an amp Probe on there and check things out see how much power you're using for different circuits so you're not overloading anything. Just a tip for those who might go ahead and do this themselves.
I appreciate that. I am really dissapointed to see a few channels doing all these HVAC hookup hacks that are destructive for the heating system and totally illegal for the sake of views. I am all for quick fixes but some of these videos are teaching terrible ideas
Great video!!! Glad to see the Generator Interlock installation - it is VERY important to have & will save lives. (maybe yours) In most cases, your generator will NOT be able to power your entire house. Before you actually have to run Generator power, Identify which Circuit breakers are your 'Essential' ones (Furnace, Well Pump, Fridge, Freezer, essential lights, etc) I used a green paint marker to mark these breakers. Next, I marked the 'Nice to have' breakers (garage door opener, more lights, outlets for TV, etc) - I used a yellow paint marker. The remaining go unmarked & are things that take high amps, like the Range, Electric Water Heater, A/C, Electric Dryer, Washing Machine, dish washer, etc. Monitor your Amp gauge on your generator. You can run your Range if you turn off some of your Essential breakers. Making a Checklist & instructions on 'How to' get everything working, in the proper order is good to have. Make sure you have a working flashlight available. You will have to get this working in the most inconvenient time & conditions. Make sure you start & run your generator every 30-60 days to insure it starts & runs. Keep an extra quart of oil available & rotate your gas. Do a full test at least once a year. (nothing worse than to have a generator that wont start of run when you really need it) For extended power outages (several days or longer expected) - run your generator for about 1 hour, then shut it down for about 2 hours (or more, based upon your conditions). This will allow your limited fuel supply to last longer.
Great work as always! I'd love to see one on how to deal with Multi-Wire Branch Circuits (shared neutrals) using a 120v power source powering both legs of a panel.
Yes, I like the smart home panels but they are good for automatic stuff, but I am totally fine controlling what things I want on etc and as you said, its simple and cheap and very reliable.
The reason transfer switches are superior is that most generators can not supply a whole house. In this example you are supplying 30 amps thru the emergency breaker. You can easily overload this breaker, especially if the home is all electric. With a transfer switch, you select certain circuits to use during a utility outage. So, for safety, a transfer switch is the way to go
@@donh6416with this setup you can choose to turn on only the select circuits that you want to use. Maybe you want to use your stovetop to cook something so you turn off all the outlet circuits including fridge/freezer for an hour. Maybe you install a soft start kit on your air conditioner and choose to run that during the summer but in the winter you have the option of keeping something else on. Using a transfer switch just means you have to have made the decisions before hand and don't have any flexibility during an outage.
Transfer switches are good for folks who have no idea what they're looking at when opening a panel. I have a simple interlock setup, for the very reason you mention... i can run any circuit i want. but the Transfer switch is something I would choose for my mother in law, as she has no clue what is going on in her walls.@@michaellewis6569
@@howtodoitdude1662 what’s the downside of using the main panel for distribution? Accessing every breaker instead of a select few seems like an advantage.
Thank you for the video I had just bought a 12500/ 9,500 generator for my house. Bought everything and was going to hire an electrician but this seems easy enough
The risk of and duration of power outage you have is directly proportional to the amount of money you spend on your back up system. If you wash your car it will rain, if you buy a snow blower it will not snow. BTW I have 2 manual GE knife throw switches $200 each. It is a simple one arm bandit style switch that lets you select between two sources of power.
I can't believe how clean and tidy your Rachio sprinker control wiring is. Oh, and thanks for the bit about the interlock installation. Merry Christmas to you and yours Chris!
I just bought a Batteryevo Arctic. 15.5 kwh capacity. It comes with 2 cables to connect it. One for power into the battery, the other for power out of the battery. The battery is connected between the main panel and a sub panel with the circuits to be backed up. One of the cables can be used to connect the main panel to the sub panel if the battery is removed.
Great video. You've done a fantastic job in showing how to properly wire up an external 30Amp plug for a generator. I'll be installing a 50 Amp plug on the outside of our home since I'll have a GENMAX GM11000 iETC electric start inverter generator. I'll be using 6 gage wire since it's for 50 Amps. Again, thank you a great educational video. Cheers!
Yes, hopefully you saw my response. The structure was built in 1993, long before the 2008 bonding code changes and was designed for the current regs then. Gloves are for video clarity.
That Honda has a floating neutral. Most generators are bonded. Not explaining the difference in DIY videos can lead to code violations and potentially dangerous situations. When installing an interlock with a bonded neutral generator, you have to remove the jumper or you will be bonded in more than one place.
@@magnate2372 I’m not an electrician but def a code violation. You only want one path to ground, not two. For example, there would be a chance of sending a fault to generator housing. Good short video is “How to Ground Your Generator Per Code | DIY”
I just did this a few months back when a power line snapped from a pole and caught the pole on fire. We were without power for 1.5 days. I installed mine on the outside though.
You need a hold down for that breaker as well, to comply with 408,36(D). There is a multiwire branch circuit in the same conduit as the service conductors, that's a code violation. 230.7
Great video! I noticed grounds and commons going to the same bar and the bonding screw is installed. Is that a sub panel to your main panel? If so, you should consider removing the bond and separating your grounds and commons in the sub panel, otherwise it can lead to amperage on your ground.
I’m wiring an off grid cabin to be powered by a small Bluetti power station( 30 amp) and also gas generator (50 amp) as an alternative. Do I use a sub panel with a 50 amp breaker and a 30 amp breaker with interlock kit so I can keep the neutrals and grounds seperated ?
This is a main panel, so bonding ground and neutral there is appropriate. It wouldn't make sense to install an interlock kit anywhere but the main service entrance.
SC, the power should have been isolated at the MAIN PANEL'S sub-feed breaker for this panel, the feeders coming from the bottom of this panel and the lugs at this main breaker were still HOT and exposed. Also, regardless of the 'grandfather clause' it would be in your best interest to isolate the neutrals in this sub-panel, there is a very specific reason the NEC added this requirement. Please do it.
All good points. After further digging into the code and consulting with a few folks, the code for separating neutrals and grounds (in separate structures came out even after the 1999 main dwelling code)it came into effect in 2008 so it is fairly recent. The issue is this building was designed to be this way and is 200 feet from the house and has no ground back wire to the house (since having one would have been against the code at the time) but if I make changes I will address it at a future time.
@@SilverCymbal makes sense but keep in mind that the Utility transformer secondary's are grounded which is also where the single phase power derives the Main neutral from. If you lose your neutral(s), any ground path, including the soil and devices can become energized. Have a Merry Christmas SC.
@donm1547 I came to make the same statement sbout the neutral issue. Quite a few linemen have been injured or killed due to back feeding a transformer doing this same thing.
I'm an electrical contractor and I install many of these set-ups. I will NEVER install the inlet inside of a building or garage. I will only install those on outside walls. You might be smart enough to never run the generator inside the garage, but you may sell the house to some idiot who decides to buy the shortest cord for their generator, then runs the generator in the garage, and ends up killing their family. Carbon monoxide poisoning kills more people that you would believe, and I will do my best to prevent that from happening.
I remember confusing everyone when my apartment power went out. I pulled the car around back and connected it's internal generator (it was a ford probe converted for camping) and turned off the main then plugged in the car generator to the user side of the meter box (user service feed bypass) which wont open until the main outdoor switch is thrown (to prevent back feed) . Everybody was like, how you gonna get power to your apartment with a car? lol
Hi, I like this video, I just need to understand about the capacity of the generator I need to supply electricity to my house (1.000 KWh) monthly in my electric bill, How to calculate this capacity at least to supply continue energy for 10 hours before recharge/refuel or something.
I actually use two different generators. One is a 3500 watt inverter that burns very little fuel. We use it during power outages when outside temps aren’t hot enough to use ac. Will run anything on 120 in our house. Have a 15500 that will run the entire house, but uses a lot more fuel. I have a disconnect that prevents back feed. The way I have it set up, takes just a few minutes to switch between generators. Could have went with the generac setup that is all automatic, but there are other things I need a generator for. Fortunately most of our power outages are thunderstorm related and generally last just a few hours. But we occasionally have tornado damage that lasts for days and the occasional dreaded ice storms. We live in a very rural area and our local power company does a very good job but they can get overloaded with work in a short time. Large coverage area, not many employees. When we are expecting storms I go ahead and get the small generator set up, ready to go. Really helps.
Hi, Thank you for the useful video. I have a question please. I already have a generator connection. I want to reverse the sama idea and use that same outlet where you plug in the generator, use it for EV charging. Is it possible? If yes what do I have to change? Thank you in advance 🙏
The term shouldn't exist. Generators convert kinetic energy into electrical energy. Solar cells don't operator on kinetic energy so they are not generators.
That panel almost looks like a subpanel. If there is a disconnect upstream of that panel then the neutrals and grounds should be separated from each other and brought together at the main shutoff panel. If it is the main panel then it is good.
Yes, very good eagle eyes! This is a sub-panel but setup identically to a main panel. So it works great for what I did in the video and future stuff as I can stop messing with my main. But is it illegal or against code as we have all been taught despite not being the first point of disconnect. No. Why? Because it was built in 1993. The bonding changes to subpanels came in around 1999-2003. This structure is setup just as a main panel with it's own grounding system, etc.
@@SilverCymbal Thanks for the reply! And yes it remains legal if it was legal when first done 👍. Otherwise I would need to be installing GFCIs and AFCIs on almost everything in my house with the code changes 😂.
There are very real reasons why ground and neutral should be separated in sub panels and in the generator. Will it work, yes, but it’s much better to separate them. There are several good RUclips videos on why this should be done. Your description seemed like you were separating them, but I could see both neutral and ground in each bus bar. It’s not hard to just remove the green bonding screw after moving each wire to the proper bar. As usual, it’s best to check with a pro if you’re not sure.
Actually,if you are adding an inlet, you may need to update. Each local authority sets their own rules, and can force you to get a permit and make changes . At the very least, it would have to pass inspection when you sell or rent the house.
SC, the power should have been isolated at the MAIN PANEL'S sub-feed breaker for this panel, the feeders coming from the bottom of this panel and the lugs at this main breaker were still HOT and exposed. Also, regardless of the 'grandfather clause' it would be in your best interest to isolate the neutrals in this sub-panel, there is a very specific reason the NEC added this requirement. Please do it. 😊
What changes are needed if you have a grid tied solar array on your home... any difference? With the grid tied systems they will not operate if AC is not present.... now we have AC from the generator. Will this damage your inverter or tour generator?
checkout some online pics of breaker panel layout , you ll see each leg of the panel bus bars alternate as the breakers are inserted into the bus bars. A or B.... Ex bkr 1 on A Brk 3 on B brk 5 on A bkr 7 on B etc
genrally with high current AC cable its not a good idea to leave a big pile of the cable coiled up, best to have about 8feet max more than what is needed, or it can act inductive under heavy loads,
How about setting up an inlet inside and outside? I only have one outside and it's the best thing ever but inside would be great for me to use my ecoflow setup.
This one was installed inside my workshop. But I did exactly what you are asking for in my house, but to do it legally, you need to use a switchbox and it's very expensive despite the fact its just a simple switch. You can see that setup here: ruclips.net/video/yNBXE3BszEM/видео.html
Rather than a manual interlock, is there any kind of relay or automatic switch that can disconnect your house off and activate the generator in the event of a power outage?
I'm not an electrician or any sort of contractor person, but in the previous house I was living in, the landlord bought a whole-house generator and an automatic transfer switch. And as you might expect, there were 3 different people involved with the installation: electrician, propane person, and certified vendor representative. As a result, if the power went out, the sensors waited about 10 seconds before turning on the generator (propane-powered btw). No one had to go outside to power on anything. For the kind of generator he is using I am guessing (and it's a very uneducated one at that) that there is no automatic way to have it kick on, say, at 2am, when your power goes out. I would love it if there was an automatic way to have such automation with a gas generator. The automatic option is certainly a good way to go especially if you're in say a cold-weather environment and if the power goes out at that 2am time during a January snowstorm but you're sleeping. You wake up and the house is cold and with no automation now you've got to go out and turn things on. It's not a fun thing even if you discover the outage at 2am. This was my landlord's concern and during the last winter, they did kick on a couple of times. I'm sure the chickens i the house appreciated the power coming back on right away to power the heaters. Yeah, it wasn't just us people he was trying to keep toasty. He had about 20 chickens.
Kind of. It is usually two different things that do what you are asking. First to auto disconnect the your house from the grid they are called Automatic Transfer Switches (ATS). They sense when the grid power drops below a certain point, and then they switch over to the other input (assumidly your generator). Often they have built in sensors to ensure that the source that is being switched to is stable enough before making the switch. The other part is usually built into the generator itself. It monitors for a loss of power, in this case from the grid, and then once that is detected, starts the ignition sequence. For my home it takes approximately 10-20 seconds (less in the winter since no A/C drawing power) to be fully back up and running on my generator power. So anything critical (like my servers, computers, cameras, etc) I just have to make sure have enough UPS battry to last at least that long.
Do you also have a Generac or Kohler direct automatic start up or you only have a portable one? My parents have a Generac and it was a godsend during last couple early fall hurricanes and extreme snow blizzards
I don't have any automatic system, since they run on nat gas propane. We have a propane tank for heat but running on generator would be depleted it in about 3-4 days. Gasoline is more work but I can run for about 5-7 days & I have a chance to get more if a crisis happens where propane I am restricted due to my rural location that a delivery might not happen. My rural spot does add some complications.
I had this done last year. Cost me about $1200. They did have to drill thru exterior wall and run the lines to my garage. It was well worth the money spent.
I wish that these were legal in Canada. Instead we are forced to pay thousands for GenerLink or move half our circuits over to a sub-panel. This would be so easy.
Wow I didnt know that. Its funny I called generlink a few years back thinkng there solution was awesome, but they are crazy expensive as you said. It seemed lke just sell them through the power company for like $5/month and everyone would get them. But I guess they are greedy. Sad!
@@SilverCymbal in case you are curious I believe the reasoning for these interlocks not being legal is because they can be defeated by removing the cover on your electrical panel. So strange.
In February of 2022 I purchased the Generlink 30 -75KA with surge protection and that included a 20 foot 30 amp locking cord for 653 dollars and my utility company installed it for 20 dollars here in South Central Kentucky. I purchased it from North American Power Products dab Global Power Products 225 Arnold Road, Lawrenceville, Ga. 30044. I love it so safe and easy to use all they did on the install was pull the meter head off push the generator link in opening then push the meter head in the opening in the Generlink and you are ready it’s basically a automatic transfer switch and approved by most utility companies.
Theoretically, you don’t really need the Interlock plate - it’s only a safety device to ensure the main breaker and the generator breaker are not “on” at the same time. I’m assuming that the 30/50 amp breaker can be placed in any position in the main panel?
This is true but you will need to ensure you or someone who knows to switch off the main turns on your generator. It will also fail inspection if you sell the home to someone who insists on an inspection. It also makes you liable if someone else tries turning on the generator incorrectly and criminally liable if it's someone you sold the house to and they didn't do it the right way.
So… 10awg is sufficient for a 30a 240v set up? I need to extend my inlet box to a different location. How long of a run with 10awg wire is safe for a 30a set up ?
Cant speak for everywhere but the utility compaby I work for asks that you notify that a generator is wired to the panel. May not still apply that was before solar took off.
I don’t believe this passes the NEC, as the neutral isn’t isolated to the home. This setup can send current to the street through the neutral. Neutral carries the unbalanced load.
Can you talk about what those of us with 120V generators would do? This solution appears to assume 240V. I believe most solar generators are also 120V.
Hang in there on this one. I will be showing you in an upcomign video how a 120v only generator can work with this same setup. There are some tradeoffs but you still gain a lot.
Question about bonding neutrals. Since most inverter generators come with bonded neutrals and GFCI outlets, won't the transfer switch connect the bonded generator with the already bonded main panel and thus not be up to code?
Could I run the whole house and water pump(well) a generator is usually 30/40 amp a whole house should be more correct ??? Ac , lights , tvs fridges washer dryer?
Everyone is forgetting one item. By the electrical meter there should be a sign or label. Stating a secondary power source, for firemen or the power company. Check out article 702 i believe.
Code is different in every state. We have solar on the roof and are not required to post labels about back feeding. The power company is required to note it themselves
@@tomnorman457 If it's a back-fed breaker - meaning the power comes into the breaker from the screw terminals and goes into the buss bar - (such as a main breaker or in this case, the generator breaker), then it has to be screwed down into place. If not, then if the breaker ever comes out, for whatever reason, you would be holding a breaker in your hand that is energized and that can make for a bad day.
@@jstins If it's a fairly modern panel then there is already a threaded hole in the body of the panel for that screw. (Possibly only in the top few spaces so you may have to remove the top two breakers to find it). I don't think back-fed is the proper name for it but when you buy the breaker, make sure there is a hole in it for the screw that's specifically designed for this application. It may possibly be called a hold-down screw. (DON'T USE A DRYWALL SCREW, PEOPLE) I don't think you'll find these at Depot or Lowes so just go to an electrical supplier in your area and tell them what your doing. All you should need for them is the panel type and model, if applicable. Take a pic of any label you can find if you're still unsure. And if you use a zip tie, you won't be able to get the cover back on properly. Side note here. I do recall using a different type of "bracket" to hold down the breaker before. It was a piece of metal bent to go over the breaker and attach somehow to the box. But I haven't seen that in a long time and I can't remember the details of it. It was most likely in an older panel. So if your panel is ancient, there still may be hope. The electrical counter folks should be able to tell you if what you have can accommodate what you're trying to do. If not, than it's probably time to modernize your service. Hope that helps.
What kind of wiring do I need to go from inlet box to the breaker panel?Also do I need 10-3 or 8-3 gauge? Wiring a 50 amp inlet box. Generator is 110/240
You need 6/3. 6 is the gauge and the smaller the number the thicker the wire and anything thinner than 6 gauge will start melting past 49 Amps. The 3 is the number of wires minus the ground. You will need the red and black positive, the white negative, and the bare ground. x/2 wire only has the black, white, and nothing over 30 Amps uses only the one black positive.
Nice video I’m trying to find the interlock kit but the link to the main feeding from the middle my main is on the opposite side of urs do I just move on the orther side and move break down like what u did
Tools from the video: Generator Inlet: amzn.to/4asBIHt or amzn.to/3HcYCoZ - Strippers: amzn.to/3vaVeIt Interlock Kit (Square D): amzn.to/41uACqB
10/3 Wire: amzn.to/3GQRluL or amzn.to/3tBX9oJ
I had a licensed master electrician wire a similar interlock and generator feed line to my main electrical circuit breaker box years ago. I consider it some of the best money I have spent on improving my home.
I have not needed to do this many times (few power outages, thank God) but it is pretty awesome to run my entire home off the generator in an emergency.
Thank you for another wonderful video!
That is awesome, I am amazed at how many people rig unsafe stuff. These things will last longer than the next 20 iphones thAt are released. Money well spent.
What did he charge you for something like this?
@@infiltretor287 it was supposed to be $200 but I believe he charged me $400. That included the 20 foot of cable to hook up the generator to the house.
Worth it to me. No regrets.
‘Licensed master electrician’; christ! In that case I was served by a licensed master chef at McDonald’s yesterday.
lol what? master electricians arent just something they call themselves... Its alot of work and takes many years to obtain the title. @@sam.p12345
Well done Silver. I did the exact job a year ago after watching more than a dozen different RUclips videos; mine is below the main panel but on the outside of the house. The beauty of your video is that it’s a “one stop shop” of everything needed to safely install the inlet box. Thanks for all the help; I always find value in your videos!
I really appreciate that and am pleased the video was helpful.
I have no idea why I love watching your videos.
Thanks for watching
Having installed many of these, AND consulting customers, the BEST course of action is ...
Only install 6/3 wire from inlet box to breaker panel, someday you will want to UPGRADE to a larger generator (50 amps) (electric start) making it easier for a spouse or kids to facilitate the starting of the generator if you're not home when emergency arises. Always put inlet box OUTSIDE allowing plenty distance AWAY from house (windows, vents etc ) also consider installing an outdoor 120 volt service box (receptacle) to charge your generators starting battery BEFORE THE STORM hits.
TYPE OUT IN LARGE letters an instruction sheet so ALL family members can follow procedures to start generator. Have flashlights strategically located to start generator IN THE DARK.
Keep FRESH fuel supply in stock , plus oil change, air filter and spark plugs WITH dedicated tools on site . Do you want to go shopping at 3 am in an ice storm for a spark plug to start a generator to keep your furnace on ? (Or send the spouse 😅 ? )
Excellent preparedness tips!
Thank you
If I may add to that, you can usually buy a replacement carburetor for less than $50, it's my experience a gummed up carb is the first item to give you trouble! So many people are so glad to get utility power back on they just pust the generator in storage without running all the fuel out of carb before storage! I keep my generator ready always but I have an extra carb just in case!
Why does it have to be outside? I own an apartment where the breaker box is on an inside wall. Technically there is a way to run the line to the outside but it will be a mess to do it. I don't mind running a 30 ft cord to the breaker box leaving the door open. In the case of a power outage we will not be in that room. Is there a problem with this as far as code goes or are you just giving advice?
@@baruchfishman1874Gas generators give off CO2. Not a good thing to have indoors. For everything else, it's probably a good idea to keep everything as far away from the structure in case things go south and you end up with a short circuit.
How about putting one inside by the breaker panel for a sogen setup. As far as I can tell there is no issue
I always flip all the breakers off on my sub panel and I have the breaker on the generator turned off as well. I go out and start the generator, flip the breaker on after about 30 seconds. Then by the time I get inside I can start flipping breakers on one by one. Great video overall for someone looking to do this too.
This is what I will do when installed. Certain things don't need to run when on generators. We have slowly went to LEDs when ever possible to prevent overburdening our generator.
@@douglashaner6802 I have a 6250 running watt portable generator. It's been fantastic. I even run my hybrid water heater and well pump off of it. I wish I put the dishwasher on it (turn heating element off when using) and a bathroom circuit on it. I could do it but i don't mind enough to really bother. We do lose power a ton. If I touch the panels again it will be to install whole house backup batteries.
When we built our house we had the electrical contractor wire in a transfer switch. Nice and safe that way and relatively cheap while your doing new construction
That was a great idea. It adds almost nothing when building new, but you have to know to ask! Good move for you gyuys
I'm a licensed electrician and I'd hire you to do this work for me. 100% legal and done in a workmanlike matter. The only thing I do differently is I like to, locate this inlet device box on the exterior to deter a homeowner from setting up and running their generator indoors. It's not a code violation to install the inlet indoors however.
@@leofoster9765 Or a cable through the wall!
Isn't the neutral being bonded in the panel and also being bonded in the generator a problem? I know it's a code violation to have a neutral to ground bond in more than 1 location. Shouldn't the generator be a floating neutral?
@@Antoniocool86generator outlet has a label saying “neutral floating”, what makes you say it’s bonded? Did I miss something?
@@alexnone3374 you must have amazing vision if you could see that sticker on the generator of the electrician that I was replying to through your computer monitor, through your internet line and to wherever his generator is stored. I'm asking Ron about something that is overlooked by 95% of the people making this connection. It's not even mentioned in this video at all but it is important. Most portable generators are bonded neutral which would be no good in this situation, it needs to be a floating neutral and it is not mentioned at all in this video or most videos showing how to do this. So for people that don't know, they will be doing it the wrong way not knowingly. And yes I see the label on this generator in the video but there is no mention of it at all in a video that's supposed to be teaching people how to do it.
We built in 16’ and had our electrician install an interlock switch in our breaker panel and a 30 watt outlet on the back outside wall of the garage. I keep my portable generator in my shed which is just a few feet from my garage so it makes it easy to get out and set up. I haven’t had to use it yet but it’s there if I do. I have a maintenance schedule for my power equipment which includes firing up the generator to ensure it works when called upon.
I installed a subpanel with 3-way rocker switches right underneath the breaker box. 1 position is fed from the generator, one position is not fed at all, and the other position is fed from the street. That way the generator and the street will always remain separated.
I wish more folks would do this correctly like you show. I’m a home inspector and have seen many houses with the inlet box and NO interlock kit!! Even with dead man’s cables plugged into the dryer 240 volt outlets. Tragedy waiting to happen. Do it right, if you can’t… hire someone and practice when there is no power outage, not when there is an outage….you have to practice/ prepare, have fuel stored safely, change the oil after 55/60 hours and ride out the storm with power and if you have soft start kits on your central AC units you can have AC too.
Great video! I did the same for my house, but you should address the generator you're using for this setup. It has to be a floating neutral one vs bonded neutral if you're not also disconnecting the neutral leg from utility (very rare). Most generators there is a way to unbond it, and there are warning stickers you'd need to label the inlet and generator to be within code.
Simple, no-nonsense, straight to the point video. Such a rarity. Thank you! Subscribed.
I watched many, but this one video is the best and simple and inexpensive and technically easy to do. Thank you
VERY PROFESSIONALLY PRODUCED. Kudos. You certainly have the ability to teach, thank you - John 3:16
I saved 50 bucks by making my own interlock using a piece of 1/8” soft but rigid plate aluminum. Either take accurate measurements or copy them from other kits. Works like a charm⚡️
Thank you! I was going to upgrade my 30A on the outside, but you made me realize that I can put a second 50A inside the garage. This saves me from fishing the new wire.
Super. In an emergency, if you only have a 120 volt generator, you can temporarily connect to both line 1 and line 2 as long as all 240 volt two pole breakers like the dryer, stove, and sub panel breakers are ALL turned off, as well as the main breaker. I have a short cnnversion cord that allows a 120 volt generator to connect to both poles of a 240 volt 30 ampere inlet from a standard extension cord, powering all 120 volt breakers, but you have to make sure to shut off, or not use, any 240 volt items. I have two inlets to my panel, along with the main/generator lockout, (More money = auto transfer switch) however, I have two inlet plugs, 120 volt × 20 ampere and 240 volt × 30 ampere connected to a 30 ampere transfer switch, so i can plug into most generators. I also have a large deep cycle 12 volt RV battery permanently hooked to a 1500 watt inverter, and a trickle charger, on a cart, which I can plug in to for quick emergencies. (20 ampere inlet.) The battery will run my hot water heating boiler, thermostat, pump, and valves for three days, which is longer than my generator runs on one tank of fuel. 💙 T.E.N.
This is a great video! Very nicely done! The one thing that I would add is to test the circuits once you have everything installed. You only have 30 amps to work with, so it's good to put an amp Probe on there and check things out see how much power you're using for different circuits so you're not overloading anything. Just a tip for those who might go ahead and do this themselves.
Its great to see someone doing it the proper and safe way instead of some of the hackery done by some of the fools on youtube
I appreciate that. I am really dissapointed to see a few channels doing all these HVAC hookup hacks that are destructive for the heating system and totally illegal for the sake of views. I am all for quick fixes but some of these videos are teaching terrible ideas
not only terrible ideas but some could also cause injury or death @@SilverCymbal
Great video!!! Glad to see the Generator Interlock installation - it is VERY important to have & will save lives. (maybe yours)
In most cases, your generator will NOT be able to power your entire house. Before you actually have to run Generator power, Identify which Circuit breakers are your 'Essential' ones (Furnace, Well Pump, Fridge, Freezer, essential lights, etc) I used a green paint marker to mark these breakers. Next, I marked the 'Nice to have' breakers (garage door opener, more lights, outlets for TV, etc) - I used a yellow paint marker. The remaining go unmarked & are things that take high amps, like the Range, Electric Water Heater, A/C, Electric Dryer, Washing Machine, dish washer, etc. Monitor your Amp gauge on your generator. You can run your Range if you turn off some of your Essential breakers.
Making a Checklist & instructions on 'How to' get everything working, in the proper order is good to have. Make sure you have a working flashlight available. You will have to get this working in the most inconvenient time & conditions. Make sure you start & run your generator every 30-60 days to insure it starts & runs. Keep an extra quart of oil available & rotate your gas. Do a full test at least once a year. (nothing worse than to have a generator that wont start of run when you really need it)
For extended power outages (several days or longer expected) - run your generator for about 1 hour, then shut it down for about 2 hours (or more, based upon your conditions). This will allow your limited fuel supply to last longer.
Great work as always! I'd love to see one on how to deal with Multi-Wire Branch Circuits (shared neutrals) using a 120v power source powering both legs of a panel.
Thank you for the kind words and generosity!
I’ve have watched several video on how to do this, your video has been the most informative.
I really appreciate that, thank you
Good video as always Chris. I live in a region that rarely has power outages but find the info fascinating.
I got this done last year and it works great
Yep, I agree. Overly complicated generator transfer switches are more expensive and don’t allow whole house connectivity.
Yes, I like the smart home panels but they are good for automatic stuff, but I am totally fine controlling what things I want on etc and as you said, its simple and cheap and very reliable.
The reason transfer switches are superior is that most generators can not supply a whole house. In this example you are supplying 30 amps thru the emergency breaker. You can easily overload this breaker, especially if the home is all electric.
With a transfer switch, you select certain circuits to use during a utility outage.
So, for safety, a transfer switch is the way to go
@@donh6416with this setup you can choose to turn on only the select circuits that you want to use. Maybe you want to use your stovetop to cook something so you turn off all the outlet circuits including fridge/freezer for an hour. Maybe you install a soft start kit on your air conditioner and choose to run that during the summer but in the winter you have the option of keeping something else on. Using a transfer switch just means you have to have made the decisions before hand and don't have any flexibility during an outage.
Transfer switches are good for folks who have no idea what they're looking at when opening a panel. I have a simple interlock setup, for the very reason you mention... i can run any circuit i want. but the Transfer switch is something I would choose for my mother in law, as she has no clue what is going on in her walls.@@michaellewis6569
@@howtodoitdude1662 what’s the downside of using the main panel for distribution? Accessing every breaker instead of a select few seems like an advantage.
Thank you for the video I had just bought a 12500/ 9,500 generator for my house. Bought everything and was going to hire an electrician but this seems easy enough
The risk of and duration of power outage you have is directly proportional to the amount of money you spend on your back up system. If you wash your car it will rain, if you buy a snow blower it will not snow.
BTW I have 2 manual GE knife throw switches $200 each. It is a simple one arm bandit style switch that lets you select between two sources of power.
Very nice. I plan to do the same on our new house eventually so it's great to see how it all goes together. Thanks for the video!
What an amazing video!! Hope 2024 brings you and your family an abundance of joy and wonderful things!! ❤
everything looks so clean and well done
Thanks so much! 😊
I can't believe how clean and tidy your Rachio sprinker control wiring is.
Oh, and thanks for the bit about the interlock installation.
Merry Christmas to you and yours Chris!
I just bought a Batteryevo Arctic. 15.5 kwh capacity. It comes with 2 cables to connect it. One for power into the battery, the other for power out of the battery. The battery is connected between the main panel and a sub panel with the circuits to be backed up. One of the cables can be used to connect the main panel to the sub panel if the battery is removed.
This was simply beautiful work my friend. Best video on this on RUclips. Guava ✌🏽
Much appreciated! I love your channel a lot I have watched a lot of your stuff!
Great video. You've done a fantastic job in showing how to properly wire up an external 30Amp plug for a generator. I'll be installing a 50 Amp plug on the outside of our home since I'll have a GENMAX GM11000 iETC electric start inverter generator. I'll be using 6 gage wire since it's for 50 Amps. Again, thank you a great educational video. Cheers!
I'm glad others addressed bonding. My question: Why wear those gloves? They appear to be simple latex gloves?
Yes, hopefully you saw my response. The structure was built in 1993, long before the 2008 bonding code changes and was designed for the current regs then. Gloves are for video clarity.
That Honda has a floating neutral. Most generators are bonded. Not explaining the difference in DIY videos can lead to code violations and potentially dangerous situations. When installing an interlock with a bonded neutral generator, you have to remove the jumper or you will be bonded in more than one place.
Is this merely a code violation or an actual safety hazard?
@@magnate2372 I’m not an electrician but def a code violation. You only want one path to ground, not two. For example, there would be a chance of sending a fault to generator housing. Good short video is “How to Ground Your Generator Per Code | DIY”
@@chrism5931I found the video. Thank you!
@@magnate2372 good luck
I like your videos because they're easy to follow and you explain everything so well. Now I can connect our new everflo to our pain panel.
I am curious as to why you installed the plug on the inside as opposed to the outside of the house...?
I will be using this with battery 240v systems more than gas generators, they can't be outside, but I can always use a longer cord for gas models.
I just did this a few months back when a power line snapped from a pole and caught the pole on fire. We were without power for 1.5 days. I installed mine on the outside though.
You need a hold down for that breaker as well, to comply with 408,36(D).
There is a multiwire branch circuit in the same conduit as the service conductors, that's a code violation. 230.7
Great explanation of how to connect this to my house, thank you very much!!!
Only video that actually explains everything good job brother
Having this done this week and my panel is also very old about 35 yrs as well.
Great video! I noticed grounds and commons going to the same bar and the bonding screw is installed. Is that a sub panel to your main panel? If so, you should consider removing the bond and separating your grounds and commons in the sub panel, otherwise it can lead to amperage on your ground.
I’m wiring an off grid cabin to be powered by a small Bluetti power station( 30 amp) and also gas generator (50 amp) as an alternative. Do I use a sub panel with a 50 amp breaker and a 30 amp breaker with interlock kit so I can keep the neutrals and grounds seperated ?
This is a main panel, so bonding ground and neutral there is appropriate. It wouldn't make sense to install an interlock kit anywhere but the main service entrance.
SC, the power should have been isolated at the MAIN PANEL'S sub-feed breaker for this panel, the feeders coming from the bottom of this panel and the lugs at this main breaker were still HOT and exposed. Also, regardless of the 'grandfather clause' it would be in your best interest to isolate the neutrals in this sub-panel, there is a very specific reason the NEC added this requirement. Please do it.
All good points. After further digging into the code and consulting with a few folks, the code for separating neutrals and grounds (in separate structures came out even after the 1999 main dwelling code)it came into effect in 2008 so it is fairly recent. The issue is this building was designed to be this way and is 200 feet from the house and has no ground back wire to the house (since having one would have been against the code at the time) but if I make changes I will address it at a future time.
@@SilverCymbal makes sense but keep in mind that the Utility transformer secondary's are grounded which is also where the single phase power derives the Main neutral from. If you lose your neutral(s), any ground path, including the soil and devices can become energized. Have a Merry Christmas SC.
@donm1547 I came to make the same statement sbout the neutral issue. Quite a few linemen have been injured or killed due to back feeding a transformer doing this same thing.
I'm an electrical contractor and I install many of these set-ups. I will NEVER install the inlet inside of a building or garage. I will only install those on outside walls. You might be smart enough to never run the generator inside the garage, but you may sell the house to some idiot who decides to buy the shortest cord for their generator, then runs the generator in the garage, and ends up killing their family. Carbon monoxide poisoning kills more people that you would believe, and I will do my best to prevent that from happening.
Carbon monoxide is CO, not CO2. Just saying...
@@echohotel1094 You are correct sir. I edited. Not sure how that brainworm got in.
@@echohotel1094same difference 😭😭
@@editoons15 no it is not. Carbon dioxide vs carbon monoxide. Simple chemistry for most. Good luck!
@@echohotel1094 same difference as in this case theyre both deadly… thats all someone has to know when running an engine indoors
I remember confusing everyone when my apartment power went out. I pulled the car around back and connected it's internal generator (it was a ford probe converted for camping) and turned off the main then plugged in the car generator to the user side of the meter box (user service feed bypass) which wont open until the main outdoor switch is thrown (to prevent back feed) . Everybody was like, how you gonna get power to your apartment with a car? lol
Now this was a well-informed educational video. Bravo!!!! 👍👍
We use a 3phase changeover switch for mains and the generator.
Out of curiosity, which leg did you use for the Neutral in that transfer switch? Left, Middle, or Right?
Far better than the EcoFlow transfer switch.
Well done.
Looking for the interlock system.
Don't you need a breaker tiedown on the 30amp breaker like the 100amp has?
Would it hurt to install the 50 instead of the 30 in case someone later upgrades or daisey chains their generator?
Hi, I like this video, I just need to understand about the capacity of the generator I need to supply electricity to my house (1.000 KWh) monthly in my electric bill, How to calculate this capacity at least to supply continue energy for 10 hours before recharge/refuel or something.
Thank You Francie for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.... Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. Namaste 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ ☮ ❤
I actually use two different generators. One is a 3500 watt inverter that burns very little fuel. We use it during power outages when outside temps aren’t hot enough to use ac. Will run anything on 120 in our house. Have a 15500 that will run the entire house, but uses a lot more fuel.
I have a disconnect that prevents back feed. The way I have it set up, takes just a few minutes to switch between generators. Could have went with the generac setup that is all automatic, but there are other things I need a generator for. Fortunately most of our power outages are thunderstorm related and generally last just a few hours. But we occasionally have tornado damage that lasts for days and the occasional dreaded ice storms.
We live in a very rural area and our local power company does a very good job but they can get overloaded with work in a short time. Large coverage area, not many employees.
When we are expecting storms I go ahead and get the small generator set up, ready to go. Really helps.
Hi,
Thank you for the useful video.
I have a question please.
I already have a generator connection. I want to reverse the sama idea and use that same outlet where you plug in the generator, use it for EV charging.
Is it possible? If yes what do I have to change?
Thank you in advance 🙏
Solar generator is a term I've never thought I'd hear
The term shouldn't exist.
Generators convert kinetic energy into electrical energy. Solar cells don't operator on kinetic energy so they are not generators.
That panel almost looks like a subpanel. If there is a disconnect upstream of that panel then the neutrals and grounds should be separated from each other and brought together at the main shutoff panel. If it is the main panel then it is good.
Yes, very good eagle eyes! This is a sub-panel but setup identically to a main panel. So it works great for what I did in the video and future stuff as I can stop messing with my main. But is it illegal or against code as we have all been taught despite not being the first point of disconnect. No. Why? Because it was built in 1993. The bonding changes to subpanels came in around 1999-2003. This structure is setup just as a main panel with it's own grounding system, etc.
@@SilverCymbal Thanks for the reply! And yes it remains legal if it was legal when first done 👍. Otherwise I would need to be installing GFCIs and AFCIs on almost everything in my house with the code changes 😂.
There are very real reasons why ground and neutral should be separated in sub panels and in the generator.
Will it work, yes, but it’s much better to separate them. There are several good RUclips videos on why this should be done.
Your description seemed like you were separating them, but I could see both neutral and ground in each bus bar.
It’s not hard to just remove the green bonding screw after moving each wire to the proper bar.
As usual, it’s best to check with a pro if you’re not sure.
Actually,if you are adding an inlet, you may need to update. Each local authority sets their own rules, and can force you to get a permit and make changes . At the very least, it would have to pass inspection when you sell or rent the house.
SC, the power should have been isolated at the MAIN PANEL'S sub-feed breaker for this panel, the feeders coming from the bottom of this panel and the lugs at this main breaker were still HOT and exposed. Also, regardless of the 'grandfather clause' it would be in your best interest to isolate the neutrals in this sub-panel, there is a very specific reason the NEC added this requirement. Please do it. 😊
What changes are needed if you have a grid tied solar array on your home... any difference?
With the grid tied systems they will not operate if AC is not present.... now we have AC from the generator. Will this damage your inverter or tour generator?
Very informative and well presented.
Question. When you run generator to that one 240 breaker. Doesn’t that only feed electricity to that one side of the panel?
checkout some online pics of breaker panel layout , you ll see each leg of the panel bus bars alternate as the breakers are inserted into the bus bars. A or B.... Ex bkr 1 on A Brk 3 on B brk 5 on A bkr 7 on B etc
genrally with high current AC cable its not a good idea to leave a big pile of the cable coiled up, best to have about 8feet max more than what is needed, or it can act inductive under heavy loads,
Very good info and great tutorial. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
How about setting up an inlet inside and outside? I only have one outside and it's the best thing ever but inside would be great for me to use my ecoflow setup.
This one was installed inside my workshop. But I did exactly what you are asking for in my house, but to do it legally, you need to use a switchbox and it's very expensive despite the fact its just a simple switch. You can see that setup here: ruclips.net/video/yNBXE3BszEM/видео.html
@@SilverCymbal Awesome thank you
Rather than a manual interlock, is there any kind of relay or automatic switch that can disconnect your house off and activate the generator in the event of a power outage?
I'm not an electrician or any sort of contractor person, but in the previous house I was living in, the landlord bought a whole-house generator and an automatic transfer switch. And as you might expect, there were 3 different people involved with the installation: electrician, propane person, and certified vendor representative. As a result, if the power went out, the sensors waited about 10 seconds before turning on the generator (propane-powered btw). No one had to go outside to power on anything. For the kind of generator he is using I am guessing (and it's a very uneducated one at that) that there is no automatic way to have it kick on, say, at 2am, when your power goes out.
I would love it if there was an automatic way to have such automation with a gas generator. The automatic option is certainly a good way to go especially if you're in say a cold-weather environment and if the power goes out at that 2am time during a January snowstorm but you're sleeping. You wake up and the house is cold and with no automation now you've got to go out and turn things on. It's not a fun thing even if you discover the outage at 2am. This was my landlord's concern and during the last winter, they did kick on a couple of times. I'm sure the chickens i the house appreciated the power coming back on right away to power the heaters. Yeah, it wasn't just us people he was trying to keep toasty. He had about 20 chickens.
Kind of. It is usually two different things that do what you are asking. First to auto disconnect the your house from the grid they are called Automatic Transfer Switches (ATS). They sense when the grid power drops below a certain point, and then they switch over to the other input (assumidly your generator). Often they have built in sensors to ensure that the source that is being switched to is stable enough before making the switch. The other part is usually built into the generator itself. It monitors for a loss of power, in this case from the grid, and then once that is detected, starts the ignition sequence.
For my home it takes approximately 10-20 seconds (less in the winter since no A/C drawing power) to be fully back up and running on my generator power. So anything critical (like my servers, computers, cameras, etc) I just have to make sure have enough UPS battry to last at least that long.
short answer is yes, at a premium price.
Can you explain a grid connect system such as if i wanted to connect solar. For example would there still be an interlock switch
Do you also have a Generac or Kohler direct automatic start up or you only have a portable one? My parents have a Generac and it was a godsend during last couple early fall hurricanes and extreme snow blizzards
I don't have any automatic system, since they run on nat gas propane. We have a propane tank for heat but running on generator would be depleted it in about 3-4 days. Gasoline is more work but I can run for about 5-7 days & I have a chance to get more if a crisis happens where propane I am restricted due to my rural location that a delivery might not happen. My rural spot does add some complications.
Excellent presentation.
Would it help to install ferrules on the end of the wires?
Not for solid wire I would only use the solid conductors directly
very nice indeed !!! thank you very much!!! down to earth’s explanation!!! 😊😊😊😊
This is. The best way I’ve seen I’m
Do this
I had this done last year. Cost me about $1200. They did have to drill thru exterior wall and run the lines to my garage. It was well worth the money spent.
I wish that these were legal in Canada. Instead we are forced to pay thousands for GenerLink or move half our circuits over to a sub-panel. This would be so easy.
Wow I didnt know that. Its funny I called generlink a few years back thinkng there solution was awesome, but they are crazy expensive as you said. It seemed lke just sell them through the power company for like $5/month and everyone would get them. But I guess they are greedy. Sad!
@@SilverCymbal in case you are curious I believe the reasoning for these interlocks not being legal is because they can be defeated by removing the cover on your electrical panel. So strange.
In February of 2022 I purchased the Generlink 30 -75KA with surge protection and that included a 20 foot 30 amp locking cord for 653 dollars and my utility company installed it for 20 dollars here in South Central Kentucky. I purchased it from North American Power Products dab Global Power Products 225 Arnold Road, Lawrenceville, Ga. 30044. I love it so safe and easy to use all they did on the install was pull the meter head off push the generator link in opening then push the meter head in the opening in the Generlink and you are ready it’s basically a automatic transfer switch and approved by most utility companies.
Hey Chris Mery Christmas 🎄
Thank you. you too!
Theoretically, you don’t really need the Interlock plate - it’s only a safety device to ensure the main breaker and the generator breaker are not “on” at the same time. I’m assuming that the 30/50 amp breaker can be placed in any position in the main panel?
This is true but you will need to ensure you or someone who knows to switch off the main turns on your generator. It will also fail inspection if you sell the home to someone who insists on an inspection. It also makes you liable if someone else tries turning on the generator incorrectly and criminally liable if it's someone you sold the house to and they didn't do it the right way.
Installed one of these many years ago.
I wonder what I would have to do differently because I am backfeed through solar.
So… 10awg is sufficient for a 30a 240v set up? I need to extend my inlet box to a different location. How long of a run with 10awg wire is safe for a 30a set up ?
Cant speak for everywhere but the utility compaby I work for asks that you notify that a generator is wired to the panel. May not still apply that was before solar took off.
Great video. You should compare the eco flow battery to the new anchor households battery.
Thank you, yes I will have upcomign videos on the new Ecoflow and Anker as well. These systems have advanced so much in the past year
I don’t believe this passes the NEC, as the neutral isn’t isolated to the home. This setup can send current to the street through the neutral. Neutral carries the unbalanced load.
Can you talk about what those of us with 120V generators would do? This solution appears to assume 240V. I believe most solar generators are also 120V.
Excellent point. You can only run one half of the panel on a 110v generator. He left out a lot of planning information.
Hang in there on this one. I will be showing you in an upcomign video how a 120v only generator can work with this same setup. There are some tradeoffs but you still gain a lot.
Looking forward to your 120v genny vid. @@SilverCymbal
Well done. Where is the Predator 9500?
great video. very clear to understand. Thanks for sharing
Question about bonding neutrals. Since most inverter generators come with bonded neutrals and GFCI outlets, won't the transfer switch connect the bonded generator with the already bonded main panel and thus not be up to code?
Could I run the whole house and water pump(well) a generator is usually 30/40 amp a whole house should be more correct ??? Ac , lights , tvs fridges washer dryer?
you are a smart dude thanks
nice guide! i am just not sure how to explain to my insurance company i did it properly by myself
Everyone is forgetting one item. By the electrical meter there should be a sign or label. Stating a secondary power source, for firemen or the power company. Check out article 702 i believe.
Code is different in every state. We have solar on the roof and are not required to post labels about back feeding. The power company is required to note it themselves
Do you need to screw down the generator breaker?
Yes he does
Curious why there’s a screw dead-center of the 100 amp main breaker? That can’t be a good thing.
@@tomnorman457 If it's a back-fed breaker - meaning the power comes into the breaker from the screw terminals and goes into the buss bar - (such as a main breaker or in this case, the generator breaker), then it has to be screwed down into place. If not, then if the breaker ever comes out, for whatever reason, you would be holding a breaker in your hand that is energized and that can make for a bad day.
@@snakeinthegrass7443 how do you screw it down? Can I use zip ties?
@@jstins If it's a fairly modern panel then there is already a threaded hole in the body of the panel for that screw. (Possibly only in the top few spaces so you may have to remove the top two breakers to find it). I don't think back-fed is the proper name for it but when you buy the breaker, make sure there is a hole in it for the screw that's specifically designed for this application. It may possibly be called a hold-down screw. (DON'T USE A DRYWALL SCREW, PEOPLE) I don't think you'll find these at Depot or Lowes so just go to an electrical supplier in your area and tell them what your doing. All you should need for them is the panel type and model, if applicable. Take a pic of any label you can find if you're still unsure. And if you use a zip tie, you won't be able to get the cover back on properly.
Side note here. I do recall using a different type of "bracket" to hold down the breaker before. It was a piece of metal bent to go over the breaker and attach somehow to the box. But I haven't seen that in a long time and I can't remember the details of it. It was most likely in an older panel. So if your panel is ancient, there still may be hope. The electrical counter folks should be able to tell you if what you have can accommodate what you're trying to do. If not, than it's probably time to modernize your service. Hope that helps.
Will adding generator power to one side of the panel only supply power to one side of panel only and not both?
Always good stuff.
saving a lot of money
What kind of wiring do I need to go from inlet box to the breaker panel?Also do I need 10-3 or 8-3 gauge? Wiring a 50 amp inlet box. Generator is 110/240
You need 6/3. 6 is the gauge and the smaller the number the thicker the wire and anything thinner than 6 gauge will start melting past 49 Amps. The 3 is the number of wires minus the ground. You will need the red and black positive, the white negative, and the bare ground. x/2 wire only has the black, white, and nothing over 30 Amps uses only the one black positive.
Thank you sir.
@howardradford1985
Thank you sir
Nice video I’m trying to find the interlock kit but the link to the main feeding from the middle my main is on the opposite side of urs do I just move on the orther side and move break down like what u did
Have you done any work with running AC using AC Soft Starters or Easy Start on a generator?
Nice and very informative.
Did you need a soft start kit to run your AC?