Easy DIY Generator Transfer Switch Install - Works with ANY Portable Gas or Battery Generator
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- Опубликовано: 23 янв 2022
- This is the EASIEST generator transfer switch. Can be done in less than 30 minutes. Now use your portable gas or battery generator to run your HEAT, refrigerator or microwave or any hardwired circuit in your house. Backfeeding is illegal and unsafe, these switches eliminate that problem completely. See how to install one of these from start to finish. We connected my friends Ecoflow Delta Pro to his house so he can now run his heat if he loses power.
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Love your videos! I have a request for a future video if you want. I am seeing some companion connections that connect 2 different generators together. Many of us have 2 different size (wattage) generators. I have a Honda EU2200 and a EU6500. Is there a product that allows them to be combined for say 8700 watts combined or am I asking too much? That would a great product if even available. Thanks as always.
A good way to protect your things when you're homeless
I like the way you did that by isolating the circuit, instead of the other way and powering the whole street
I am an electrician and you’ve pretty much nailed everything on the dot
PLEASE READ the ground and neutral are not always connected in the same place. Only on the first panel or first means of disconnect. If you are installing the transfer switch in a sub panel (panel other than the main) keep the grounds and neutrals separate. Just check how everything is connected before you start. When in doubt PLEASE do research or call a professional. Be safe👍
Yes 100% agree. Hopefully you saw that I put text about that in the video as well but we worth mentioning again.
Thank you this is so important to remember and not everyone watches the whole video but many will check top comments
Was just about to say, hope everyone reads the screen at 3:45 ^^
@@ryutenchi Unfortunately the way that text is placed and how much it faded into the video, as well as the fact that the video doesn't pause and has something actively happening that you don't want to miss during the short time that the white letters pop up on the bottom- will cause many people to overlook the text on the screen there, as I did.
There might be separate bars but they are connected to the same place. The neutral bar is connected to the case and the case is grounded. So yes that's pretty much the same place....
Not to get too technical. But for example. If somebody went to add let's say a outlet with a LED light. That would require the circuit to be grounded. If you went to put that in and realized you did not have a ground wire to ground it to, (there are various reasons for this), A short cut people would make is to wire the ground to the neutral. This is referred to as a ghost ground and would let current travel along the neutral wire and through any and every other circuit that might be attached to that neutral wire while the current attempts to get back to ground at the case or panel.
If you have a multimeter and you want to see specifically what I mean by this just go to your panel and connect a ground lead on a multimeter to the case. Measure how much current you have between the case and an incoming neutral wire as well as the case and an incoming ground wire.
For the purpose of this video I will add this. Some people will add a sub panel and then the rules are a little different where are you absolutely want to separate your neutrals and your grounds.
I invite you to spend five minutes of your life watching this to further explain.
ruclips.net/video/oFSt_rAZGn0/видео.html
I found your channel about six months ago and it’s become one of my favorite DYI resources on RUclips. Learned lots of tips from lawncare to electrical. Keep up the good work!
I really appreciate the nice words thank you
I’ve been following for about two years. Watch the fluid extractor video OEM. I bought one and it has made my maintenance much easier.
@@SilverCymbal Aunt Barbara adores you!
I love his videos
I bought this product a few years ago and I have to say it’s one of the best additions I added to my house.
That's great to hear, its definitely essential when there is an outage for easy power or hardwired circuits.
We used to have a big setup which could switch most breakers between line/generator individually but our current install is a single full-house transfer (just an extra breaker with a mains interlock) which is honestly adequate 99% of the time - usually power is either working perfect or totally out and we have a single powerful generator.
Cool to see there are smaller options similar to what we had at the other houses because they could definitely be super useful for some situations.
I have that, too. It’s cheaper and superior; the entire house can be turned on.
We have used the ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Honestly I would suggest your friend install a whole panel transfer switch & interlock so that he could then power any of those breakers (a few at a time) since his ECO Flow unit had the 30amp outlet.🤔
That 30amp outlet is only 120V, your whole house panel is 240V, directly connecting the ECO unit to your house panel would cause all sorts of issues because its only a 120V unit.
2x Ecoflows can provide 240V. Get the home backup panel and you have up to 10 circuits backed up automatically too! I don't know if I'm going to go that route but I did buy one Ecoflow Delta Pro battery for emergencies for now. I have 8kW of solar that I cannot use when off grid...unless I get a much more expensive setup.
I just had a 50A interlock setup installed. Capable of supplying up to 12KW of power. Interlock is nice because you can pick and choose which circuits you want to run.
I have installed two of these EZ Generator switches for my floating neutral generator. Great instructions and videos on the manufacturer's website. They've worked well. I highly recommend.
That's awesome to hear, good product for sure!
So you pick two different circuits on your house, with two different generators, or do you rotate the generator from circuit to circuit?
Will these work with a bonded neutral generator?
@@The_Backsmith802 The panel is bonded and the switch connects neutral / ground to the panel, so no. You need a floating neutral.
In general, always buy a floating neutral generator. It's very easy to create a plug that will bond it if you need it bonded.
Chances are you could turn your bonded neutral into a floating neutral with the removal of a wire. If you ever need it bonded, just build a bonding plug.
@@BillyBobDingledorf thanks for the reply, I’m trying to make a system that will work with Ford’s Pro Power Onboard system that comes on the hybrid F150. It functions as a bonded neutral generator and unfortunately there’s no way to modify it.
Thank you for shutting off the main. It's less convenient when working because you need to setup lights, but it's so much safer. Even as an electrician, I recommend my guys kill all power.
I bought one, via your link below. super easy to install. Reliance Co has great customer service if you have any questions but the process went exactly as smoothly and quickly as shown here. sending love from The Long Island.
Aunt Barbara adores you!
One thing people with a gas furnace forget is that the automatic pilot takes electric and so does the blower. Even if you have a standing pilot light, you gotta power the blower.
Personally I like wall mounted units with piezo electric igniters for emergency heat or a wood stove. But this is a great way to get some backup power going for a critical circuit.
Off grid lighting is easy, and you can always hand wash clothes and take cold showers. But the heat and the fridge/freezer... Those you'll want.
Wall heaters or gas logs hooked to a residential bulk tank can be months of heating. That would save your power for the freezer/fridge .
Wood burning stoves are pretty great too. What's nice about those is that they are pretty versatile in a situation when you can't get more fuel. (And you can cook on them too.) I've seen wood burning furnaces also, but then you're back to needing a blower.
@@SuperDave I make it look easy😜
TMI
always relived when I have a question about something and I see you've made a video on the topic. thank you for your hard work
You have made my cup of coffee 10 times better. Great info passed. Thank you
THANK YOU! Been looking for just this forever. Then boom, notification for a new Silver Cymbal!
Really good video. I wish all how-to videos were this helpful.
Thank you for sharing this. We get our water from a well, and while we draw our cleaned water from a 2500 gallon tank, if the power goes out we can't pump that water into the house. I've struggled to figure out how to handle this situation since we don't need continuous power. I had never considered a battery backup system like this which seems ideal for this sort of short demand situation. This is just what I needed to get some peace of mind here here in Texas with our unreliable power grid.
If you don't want to run a generator (or use a 120V battery backup supply) there are also 12Volt water pumps than can be run off of a car battery. If you keep the battery on a tickle charger it should be ready to go when the power goes out. You may have to plumb in some valves so you can switch between normal well pump and the emergency pump.
You could have a system where the pump starts the generator when pumping is needed. Same with the furnace. You just need an electric start generator.
I have four of the EZ transfer switches on my 4 main circuits that I want to keep up with my generator. They work great.
I made my own.. ..the 125v 20 amp double pole switch costs $9.00 and the 15 amp thermal breaker costs $3.00
The socket cost $18.. when I saw the price of those EZ transfer switches I laughed. If you have 4 of them, it would have been cheaper to buy a 6 circuit all in one transfer switch.
@@johnbattista9519 I did that after I bought 2 and needed another. It's not that difficult.
Excellent video for several reasons. Not only does the video show the proper and safe way to install a DIY transfer switch but (here it comes) it illustrates the parameters of a battery backup power system (one of the best, if not expensive) in a typical system where the furnace load is about 540 Watts and the capacity of the backup system is about 3600 Watt-hours. The video shows the power being consumed, the state of charge of the battery, and the hours of battery life remaining (7 hours). It’s no coincidence that the battery life is the capacity in Watt-hours divided by the load in Watts. Also, the video correctly stated that a furnace cycles on and off (duty cycle) so the expected hours of battery life would be determined by the duty cycle as expected hours full load divided by the duty cycle. A furnace on half the time would give twice the hours of life and a furnace on one third the time would give three times the battery life, and so on. The ability of this battery backup system to deliver nearly all of its capacity (90%) reliably for hundreds if not thousands of charge discharge cycles is because it’s batteries are lithium iron phosphate. Attempting to substitute car batteries in place of these as so many recent DIY videos show is foolish because NO automotive car battery has sufficient capacity to reliably provide the load for more than about 30 minutes before needing to be charged and still stay above a state of charge (maybe 50%) that will not rapidly degrade the life of the battery. As one content provider of one of these DIY videos found out that he needed to charge his car battery up after only two furnace cycles of about 15 minutes per hour (25% duty cycle) at the same load as this video. That is, every two hours he needed to charge! Car batteries are NOT designed to deliver continuous power but to deliver very large burst of power as is needed in a car starter motor.
That is so cool. Thanks for sharing. I'm more inclined now to get myself a Delta Pro.
Because the ECOflow units charge so quickly, you can run your home heating system off the ECOflow but if the battery percentage gets low, just charge it up quickly using a gas generator. Then you don't have to run the gas genny all the time and waste fuel.
Absolutely, he has a small gas gen also but has neighbors really close so that was a big part of why he wanted to be able to use silent electric instead of gas, Great points as always my friend!
Yeah cuz your heating system really don't use much power especially if it's a hot water rad system
@@Smart-Towel-RG-400 What heating system do you use? I have a heat pump, and it is 60% of my power bill a month, if not more.
He must be running a mini split or some other type of gas / propane heat. Any type of heat pump units require double pole breakers and the video showed a single pole 15A. That eco flow pro is only 3.6kW and wouldn’t last very long in the northern states winter. Maybe half a day. But the video was very informative though regarding the install.
It is my understanding that heat pumps are only effective in temperatures that aren't too cold.
That Combination will benefit Tremendously when Ecoflow releases their Dual Fuel Smart Generator.
My transfer switch came in handy today. I live in Central Texas and we've had a few days of freezing temps and rain so LOTS of trees down. The ice build up just becomes too strong, tree snaps, electric lines sometimes get in the way. Mine is a more complicated system although it's not that complex just a step between main panel and sub panel. but I was able to power my entire 2 story house using all the normal lights and appliances, kids home since school is out so we used all the normal lights and appliances including a gas furnace and never went over 2500 watts / 20ish amps. Most of the time I was under 1500 and around 11 amps.
I have several EZ Generator switches installed by my garage subpanel to power the furnace, kitchen lights, network closet, home office, refrigerator and family room, each with its own small transfer switch. Why not just use a larger 4 or 6 circuit transfer switch? I did this to match the emergency power sources I already owned.
I have 6 portable power stations ranging from 5100Wh to 720Wh. I can use different power stations to power different circuits. As the batteries run down, I can rotate them in and out to charge via portable solar panels or my 2000W Champion propane generator. With a single, large transfer switch I need to have 1 large power source, and if it runs out of battery or fuel, that's it.
I like the flexibility in power source strategy this approach gives me, and it's a straightforward 120V outlet, which is easy to deal with.
These are all great points I had not even considered and love them. This distributed idea gives you a lot of backups so if something should fail you have plenty of options. Good ideas!
@@SilverCymbal Thanks! BTW, I fixed a typo in my post and that seems to have wiped out your heart like. Feel free to put it back if you're so inclined :).
This strategy also lets me stretch out my fuel longer in a prolonged outage. Start with batteries, recharge with solar if there's sun, and if there's not, fall back to the generator. Also recharge during the day and run silent at night with power stations so I don't have to worry about someone stealing my portable generator in the middle of the night. Backups of backups.
As stated these battery systems are perfect for night time use equaling quite comfort and then run a generator in the morning while you can keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the DIY video. Never knew it was that easy to make a generator transfer switch for my Delta Pro.
I did not expect that the Delta Pro had that much power. I am really impressed by it.
i was more surprised that the furnace was installed on a 15amp circuit. i guess it is a gas furnace and only needs to power the fan (forced air part) of the system. 80 to 100amp is usually what you see for electric furnaces. so this switch is not designed for that type of use as i see it has a built in 15amp breaker on it and is only using 15amp rated wire. so that delta pro is seeming only powering a fan on a 15amp.. not much to be impressed by. now if it can power a full electric furnace system..that would be pretty sweet.
i will definitely power it.. but if it's winter and the furnace is coming on more frequently a average unit with a 1/2 to 1/3 hp blower motor plus a inducer fan you're not gonna get 20 hours of run time not even close
Not an electrician at all, and maybe this is a stupid question. I see the furnace was on a 15A circuit. Wouldn't it be easier to just cut the wires between the furnace and the electrical box, and safely install a single 15A outlet in a box, then add a good quality 15A pull to the wires coming from the furnace? So basically, you're plugging in your furnace. If the power goes out, just unplug it, and plug it into the generator. That way there couldn't be any backfeed on the system, because the furnace is no longer electrically connected to the system.
That would make far more sense than this video....I also wouldn't spend $7,000 on those ECO systems, I'd just buy a complete home standby generator and power the whole damn house in the first place...someone in this video has way too much money and not enough brains.
Against electrical code (NEC)
@@C420sailorYes. Violates code and we won't do it. The furnace run is a specific purpose run and can never be used for any other purpose.
You're right all you need to do is cut the power wire going to the furnace and put a male and female ends and just plug it into the generator when you have no power then when the power come back on just plug it back into the power coming from your power box
@@C420sailor And in Canada.
Yet another use for my Bluetti AC300.
Suggestion - for a temporary situation or a permanent solution, get a Generlink meter base adaptor. Would recommend the 40 amp unit.
Safe, very easy to use, super easy (5 min.) for the electric company to install.
I have no ties to the company. I bought one and it's a great solution. Using it with my Generac standby genset. Simply plug in the cord when needed, unplug when done.
They're WAY overpriced... $650 for 30amp $850 for 40amp!? You can wire up an interlock kit or transfer switch (or numerous other options) FAR easier.
those quick connects even though easy to use and say they're rated for a specific capacity i wouldn't use on heating or anything with a relatively high continuous draw they get warm compared to a wire nuts.. the generator transfer switch i like its a really good deal
Great video. You can also use this setup with our CarGenerator product , for emergency backup power using your car, for 50-70 hours in any weather conditions.
Very well done 👍
I already know how to build this one. However I really do need to build one. Make sure you make a disconnect from the mains if using shore power devices. We in this business like to keep our professionals alive.
Thanks, SC. I know a master electrician who will wire this for me. I just need to mount it. Unfortunately, my service panel is on a wall in my kitchen. I need to find a weatherproof one and install it outside.
They have outdoor units and some models can be recessed into the finished wall next to the panel, You are lucky to have someone that can install it for you, he will likely know a model that will fit into your setup.
So perhaps I missed it in the video, but I'm assuming this is a gas-fired furnace, or similar. That's the only way a battery "generator" like that is going to run the heat for more than a few hours. If it was an electrical furnace it would 1)have to be 220V, and 2)would need considerably more generator power.
very helpful, thank you so much.
Great information. Thanks.
That APC power strip on the wall was recalled by Schneider Electric and the CPSC for burning down houses. CPSC recall #14-001.
WOW! Hey thank you for sharing this. I just texted this to my friend. Scary! Thanks again
@@SilverCymbal No problem. Currently working on some solar/wind for my greenhouse and the analytics pushed your video. HAPPY GARDENING!
I prefer a 50amp interlock switch as I have more flexibility as to which circuits I would like to run.
Delta pro has pass-through. You could just connect the heater permanently and feed the delta pro from the old heater breaker and you would have an equivalent of a auto transfer or UPS.
Awesome! Thanks for doing this.
Good instructions! I would just add that if you are inexperienced at working with electricity (or just want to be extra careful), you can work with the electric company to pull your meter to completely cut the power to your panel. They may even suggest you just pull it yourself and then you just call them once you're done working and you've re-installed the meter so they'll come out and re-tag it. Since you're installing emergency power, even if you have to wait on the electric company to re-install the meter, you should still have your backup power.
If you are inexperienced working with electricity, you should not be doing any wiring in the panel and should call an electrician.
My gas heating/ AC system requires 220v to power the control circuit. So make sure you know what you are working with before buying parts and start trying to wire in a transfer switch.
I've been chipping away at doing this for a few years. Maybe it's time I get my rear-end into gear and set it up. 😂
Most important use
In Ontario Canada, the panel main compartment is sacred, only the incoming wires from utility and the main ground are allow in there, nothing else. Your transfer switch are classified as branch circuit, do NOT route it through the main compartment or you be doing it again after the next inspection.
I don't even live in America or own a generator but somehow I need this
pretty neat 👍👍
Thanks 👍
For almost the same money an Interlock kit with a NEMA Configuration L14-30 (or 50 amp) inlet box is a more useful setup.
Hi, Mr Cymbal
I was wondering what you do or did professionally? You seem to know so much about everything
Can these be used to switch from one Eclofow to another if I am using another battery to run my elecric trike or would you use something else?
FYI, if you use a generator, it needs to be a floating neutral.. which means the ground jumper wire is disconnected from the neutral inside the generator. Most gen manufacturers will show how to remove the jumper wire to turn your bonded neutral gen to a floating neutral gen.
@@mikejohnson601 .. if your generator has bonded neutral, which means the neutral and ground is connected at the generator. Your house panel also has its own bonded neutral to ground. You can’t have two sets bonded neutrals. This is also why sub panels don’t have bonds.. they run parallel back to the main panel THEN get connected.
If your feeding your generator into a main panel in your house then set your gen to a floating neutral.. if your not running through the house panel, and are running extension cords off of the gen, then bonded neutral is correct.
@@johnbattista9519h how dangerous a operation is this in your opinion low risk meeting is or high risk of connecting a generator to the house. In the danger I'm referring to primarily is of a back feed so to speak that can hurt somebody working on the line outside or the homeowner
@@Iambriangregory , the main disconnect needs to be off before you use a generator. And the generator needs to be grounded. The neutral needs to be bonded to ground at the same terminal strip where the neutral and ground is bonded in the main panel. And a lock out device such as a sliding plate needs to be installed so the main breaker can never be turned on when the generator breaker is on. It’s one or the other. Or you can buy a real transfer switch that will “break before make” circuits.
@@johnbattista9519 thank you for your help and insights ,information like that could save lives good job!
What if your furnace and furnace thermostat are on different circuits/locations? Wouldn’t you need two ?
Question, was this wired for a floating neutral?
I never knew that there was a solar generator this powerful that can actually run the whole house.
It's not running the whole house ..Just his heat
LOL, it ain't running the whole house, its only running 1 20amp circuit.
If you combine it with a second unit + a couple batteries and the home panel they sell you could to that, just keep in mind that's about 14kWh of power total to use.
You should have also demonstrated 240v charging an EV using two Eco Flow batteries with a transfer switch.
How the ez transfer stop power for going back to the street and when the lights come back do I have to do something else ?
If you have a floating ground on your generator and have a new furnace, you will need to tie the neutral to the ground on the generator or the furnace will give you an error code. On Amazon that sell a plug called a Surge Guard that will tie them together internally in the plug. Only then will it match the grounding of your home…just a footnote.
You show the EZ Gen Switch on the still for this video but install install a different one?
Wow that nice idea I will make save for bill lol
I do agree that running a solar generator indoors is much safer that an old gas generator that has fumes and smoke aside from the noise it creates.
Thanks for the video and great share. In your video you showed delta pro and curios if you or anyone know if this is possible for ecoflow delta max or delta where you can connect to a transfer switch/control panel
Yes a Delta Max will work with he the transfer panel shown as well.
So would I have to install separate switches if I’m using multiple breakers? Or there a safe way to jump them to one switch? Does amperage matter? Or should I just get a sub panel and run the transfer switch off the main breaker for the sub panel?
a guy could just get a multi circuit switch, or get an interlock and back feed your whole panel. I did the interlock method. Now my genny wont run everything on the panel so I shut off the things that are not a critical load.
The only catch is these battery units are $3,500 each... I can buy quite a few SERIOUS generators for that cost. Holy crap that's expensive, and this guy bought 2 of them!
Don't forget this bozo bought 2 of those things so he's got $7,000 tied up in those 2 units, not including the transfer switch hack job. For that kind of money you could have a really nice whole home standby generator with an automatic transfer switch and power the whole house without touching anything. This is a case where the homeowner has too much money and not enough brains.
He already had the first unit for his RV. I suspect that he’ll be using the second one in there as well.
705.NEC702.6 contains one exception to the transfer equipment requirement:
“Exception: Temporary connection of a portable generator *without* transfer equipment *shall be permitted* where conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified persons service the installation and where the normal supply is physically isolated by a lockable disconnecting means or by disconnection of the normal supply conductors.” There's no need to freeze if you understand how to disconnect the main, and your panel locks.
Except a residential panel has no locks as required at the end of the code. There is no argument that back feeding technically works and no argument that backfeeding has killed and will kill. I will never recommend someone backfeed which remains an illegal practice and that exception won't work for residential panels without an interlock. Interlocks are compliant and so are transfer switches like this.
@@SilverCymbal backfeeding is defined ONLY as feeding power back into the utility lines, not feeding power back into a panel from a generator. Thus even if you were to recommend they pay attention to the exception you wouldn't be "recommending backfeeding". "Recommending backfeeding" would mean recommending leaving the connection to the utility closed and active while putting power to the lines with a generator. As soon as you "recommend" turning the main switch off, you've stopped being able to "recommend" backfeeding.
Every panel I've ever worked on was lockable, so I'm not sure where you live with unlockable panels. The code clearly indicates that with conditions of locking and supervision met, that the transfer equipment is not necessary for temporary connections to a generator. This is a simple "horse to water" issue. The code is in clear English. It factually is not in any way illegal to wire a portable generator direct, or back through a breaker to a panel when you have your main disconnected and locked and you've ensured unqualified persons cannot access the configuration. There's good reason for that _common sense_ exception.
That’s fine for just the blower with gas heat but 110v won’t run electric heat for the majority of homes. Majority of of heat pumps use 220v set ups.
Hi, a single phase house has an L1 and an L2, each being 120V. If you had 2 generators (the little suitcase inverter types), is there a way to power up the main panel, with L1 being fed from one generator, and L2 being fed from the other generator? Keep in mind they'd be sharing the neutral in this case. The 2 generators would need to be kept synchronized 180 degrees out of phase. Is there a way to set up such a system?
I think for this use case you ned a Generator that provides two Phases.
Did you find the answer?
@Smedley Butler one guy did it on RUclips, but needed an oscilloscope and a lot of tuning. I suspect it hasn't been done commercially as it might be hard to make it safe to operate.
I have no power and want to put something in that the generator can run. What would you suggest.??
Your buddy must be Richie Rich, the Ecoflow Max is almost $4K. Wow!
No denying they are costly, but look around. How on earth are people buying whole house generators all over the place when the average price for one is $11,000 now plus $500 a year to maintain it. Crazy, where does all the money come from?
Did I understand that the transfer switch takes it off gen automatically when the power comes back?
Any idea what kind of power a forced hot air oil burner system with a power venter would use?
you would have to add up the various components to come up with the number of watts or amps. I can tell you the burner will be 200 - 250 watts (a bit over 2 amps) and the draft inducer (on the flue pipe) will have its own tag. The blower motor is the wild card, depending on the size of the furnace. It will be at least 200 watts, but a large unit might be over 700 watts. That said, no matter the size of the unit a residential oil fired furnace will be under 12 amps / 1400 watts. IOW, wired to a 15 amp breaker in your panel.
Don't forget your supposed to pull a permit from your local AHJ usually city or county before installing this and have it inspected. If you have a fire turns out lithium batteries, or electrical work you did caused it you could be in a situation where your homeowners insurance refuses to pay because you did electrical work without a permit.
Okay, If you are watching this video to learn what the individual components are called. For safety you should hire an experienced professional to do the job. Working inside a live breaker panel is not for beginners. This video has good information.
Working inside a live breaker is how we weed out the dumbfucks.
Your video is very informative, but I noticed that you neglected to comment when you shut off the breaker before installing the generator. If someone neglected to do this in a power outage, would there be a backfeed to the panel and line?
That's the best part. You never touch the circuit breaker when using the generator. The switch is wired ahead of the breaker, so it remains on while you safely switch the reliance switch as shown. That is part of the reason the switch has its own breaker since when you are using it, it takes over the job of the panel breaker.
the white should go to the neutral bar and the green to the ground bar if it has one
also the black should be hooked to the breaker if im not mistaken and the red wire to the wire that was on the breaker
If this is a main panel (not a sub panel) then having the neutral and ground on the same bus is allowed.
You're putting voltage (red wire) into the panel thru that 15A breaker to every breaker on that leg when your switch is in the Generator position.. You will need to turn the main off before switching the Generator on or linemen could get hurt and maybe overload your furnance.
I used a Generator Interlock Kit just to be safe..
No, it's actually completely disconnected from the panel when in the generator position, that's why the home run connects to the gizmo; to bypass the panel completely (or not, when using line).
Dont you have to remove breaker comming in from power plant so your not running power back into the power line?????
I would looooove to have a generator like that but man they are expensive!
For what they want for the ECO that would actually power a few things in a house you would be better served by investing in a whole house standby generator that runs on LP or Propane, and some have their own built in tanks and run on diesel instead. A simple interlock transfer switch that you flip or some can be fully automatic and don't need to deal with those cumbersome heavy battery packs that inevitably will be dead or have bad batteries in them when you actually need to use them.
Won't this run only circuits connected to one side of your 220vac system?
Are the three prongs on the box (switch) hot all of the time.
No, they never are hot, They are for feeding only so regardless of what position the switch is in there is never power coming out of them to get shocked.
Just a note, recently I was concerned that a stretch of bad weather might cause a power outage so I was reading my furnace owner's manual. The manufacturer says it needs CLEAN sine wave power......just like the power company supplies. From what I've read some generators don't supply a good clean sine wave so do your research before buying a generator.
Could you install 3 of these to run off same generator? 1. Boiler for heat/hot water 2. A 220v well pump system 3. A 4 outlet extension cord to possibly run refrigerator or pellet stoves on and off? Or is it better to switch to a whole house transfer switch? My panel is about maxed out and has a ton of wires already. I’d be using a gasoline powered generator
Yes you can multiples and many people do. You do one per circuit for the reasons you mentioned. If you check the reviews some folks share a lot of project photos: amzn.to/3tVRojJ
I did something like this but i put a switch to power the full bus so i can use my house like normal. I just have to flip off the main if power drops and plug in the generator. I have an alert light if power comes back on. I unplug the generator and turn the main back on.
Can all 110 breakers be connected to one transfer switch? That way we could pick and choose which breakers to power by switching them on. Probably not allowing the 220.
No only one with this one but they do make multi
I am thinking of buying the delta pro. Will work in the 6 plug reliance control transfer switch?
Definitely, but only for 120v circuits but that may be all you need. See the hookup with a similar switch here I did: ruclips.net/video/ydRveyXkf4M/видео.html
Are all sogens (Bluetti ac200 / Jackery e1000) floating neutral?
For the most part, yes. Many gas generators are also.
How about a video of a whole house transfer switch?
Can he run a well off the eco flow delta pro?
It only handles an 1,800 watt/15 amp circuit. We need something that can handle at 2 or 3 times that.
Those battery packs don't have much kwh capacity either. May be ok for some people I guess.
3600 watts is not much capacity?
@@SilverCymbal Capacity is stated as kwh, not kw. If you meant to express it as kwh, then a relatively modest load can mean there's only a handful of hours operating time. Full load because of the breaker is 1,800 watts. That's it, you're done until the battery can be recharged somehow.
You need a plastic bushing on the threads on top of that conduit connector so the wires aren't against the sharp metal edge.
The anti short bushing is inside that L connector at the end of the armored cable. You wouldn't use it at the end of the fitting since nothing would hold it in place and the edges are smooth, but certainly not the inside armored conduit.
@@SilverCymbal I'm not sure what you're referring to, unless you mean one of those red flag thingies that used with armored cable. What I'm talking about is a plastic ring that screws onto the fitting just above the lock nut. An inspector would fail an installation without one. Anyway, thanks for the video!
@@bmay8818 so, he may be in a little bit of a loophole actually. Insulating bushings are required at the end of threaded conduit (raceways), pvc male adapters, raceways with cable sized #4 and larger, and at the point when THHN exits the armored section of metallic clad cable (think that little red cone/flag used over the end of the sharp metal wrap). He wasn’t using a raceway, just a fitting attachment for the metallic clad cable (which has the red insulating adapter inside the fitting, so while an insulating bushing over the threads wouldn’t be a bad idea, in this exact scenario I don’t think its required by code. In fact, most fittings used for attaching metallic clad cable to boxes/panels, exc, wont have enough remaining thread to use an insulating bushing.
How you doing in the storm?
Not being a licensed/bonded electrician) to do that, could easily void your fire/homeowners insurance down the road.
Can you add to a circuit breaker
What kinda transfer switch for an outside installation using a gas generator?
Thanks
Matt
You can use the same switch, many do it this way, Just run the extension cord through a door or window and of course the gas gen must be located outside.
@@SilverCymbal To eliminate the air breech in the winter, what type of transfer switch is applicable for exterior installation?
Matt
what kind of heating system can run on a 16 gauge extension cord?
A gas furnace typically as the blower is usually 120V. An all electric furnace would require a 240V power source and those ECO units are not 240V...and ridiculously priced for no more than they can do.
I don't understand why two blacks were wago together and red went into furnace breaker where single black used to be, why 4 wires ? Why the red ?
this is for Gas heating. it taking massive 10-20k watts to run any real heat pump or electric heat
Oil heating systems here use even less power, as seen in my other videos. Modern heat pumps are easily run with this if they are 120v. No gas or battery generator will run electric-only heat for long.
What central heat system uses 120v? A small blower motor for a furnace?
Blower motor, circuit board, ignitor for a gas furnace only require a 120V circuit.
Just curious - is the furnace gas or electric? transfer