What do you think? Parts used: Heater: amzn.to/47o4DcR Exhaust Flange: amzn.to/3NP4GaU Insulation Hose: amzn.to/3vxMsUM High heat insulation: amzn.to/3NVHA2i
great video as always. you and i don't see eye to eye on some products but this is one we agree on. I have an Hcalory unit. its basically a portable like yours but its in a tool case looking box. i keep mine outside. this way i can avoid any issues with my land lord and the fire codes (not that i give a rats ass what the .gov thinks). I live in Florida yes we don't get nearly as cold but the mid 50s and lower is cold for us. I like to keep my place between 68 and 73. otherwise my chihuahua is freezing or im hot. it was 52 last night here and i kept my place at 73 with mine. do not run these units on the lowest setting for extended periods of time. they glow plug screen will clog up and you'll get an e-8 error flame out. do not run these with a waste oil, veg oil, or a blend you'll clog the screen. do not use left over fuel from a year ago. doing any of these will result in a clogged glow plug screen. if you have been running it on low crank it to maximum for an hour this will help clean it out. also running kerosene in these will clean them out. i did all of the above things listed and clogged up mine twice. i had to clean out the combustion chamber with carb cleaner and then run kerosene in it to clean it out. Kero burns hotter. my exhaust turned purple! you might want to look at the Bureck remote thermostat. its $70 and it clones the remotes of these heaters. once you have it setup it will kick the heater on when the temp falls to what you have it set at and off when the temp reaches a temp you have it set at. me i just keep a digital thermometer on my counter and if it dips below 67 i kick it on and off when i hit 73. but you like gadgets so you know go take a look at it. also you might want to look at running it with kero. when i ran mine on kero it seemed like it used alot less fuel. kero and diesel have similar btu content but keros flame temp is higher. i can't get kero cheap here. only big box mart k-1 at $10 a gallon vs the $3.50 i pay for diesel but if there is a station up that way i'd look into that. lastly for everyone else, some small power stations won't work. some of them the 12v outlet won't produce enough 12v wattage to get the glow plug going. if you are planning to run one on a small jackery you might run into this problem. i use a spare car battery hooked to a Hulkman charger (the one Silver Symbal reviewed awhile back) no issues. a lawn tractor battery will work too. a small sla may run into problems.
I think you should be ashamed of yourself for advocating for cheap chinese goods when they're aiding our enemy who's invading a friendly nation. China commits genocide, allows forced marriages with kidnapped victims from Vietnam and Mongolia, restricts basic human rights. AND YOU ARE ADVOCATING FOR THEM?!?!? You're not an American I want in my country, you're a threat to our national security. It's bad enough when we don't have a choice, but you are straight up saying "Screw the people who designed this, buy a good enough knock off from the country flooding the USA with Fentanyl"
Very nice of you to say. I am sure there are better ways but some of the installls I saw were very scary I wanted it to be as safe as I could do it without spending a lot
Is it possible to install the fresh air intake much farther away from the exhaust? I could be wrong, but it seems like you would be pulling in exhaust fumes and co2. I installed a pellet stove once and was wondering why the adapter had the fresh air so close to the exhaust on those too. Just thinking out loud here. Overall looks like a great set up. Thanks for sharing!
I have 5 of them, these are great. I also heat my garage with one, and a travel trailer, as well as a small greenhouse. If you duct the exhaust through an old large cast iron steam radiator it both cools the output gas to around 90 degrees, silences it, and acts as a useful thermal battery. I have a few videos about it here on YT and am on year 3 of doing it with no negative side effects to speak of. It's useful for heating water and even cooking as the cast iron where the diesel heater exhaust enters it gets to 350°f.
@robertmunroe3976 Thank you Robert, it also works fir my 2 stroke small generator and large 8hp 4 stroke generator to both recover heat, but also it completely silences the outdoor exhaust noise believe it or not. I spent years trying to fabricate diy generator "mufflers" that did little to quiet the exhaust, only to find during my experiments that a cast iron steam radiator does the J O B
Good thinking! Your idea of the radiator might have just gotten me to make up my mind on switching over to one of these in lieu of my pellet stove in my shop....
@@NordicDan I don't know what pellet stove you have, but mine has been great and effortless for 3 years now. I keep a 24x24 70 degrees, in sub zero temps, on just under a bag a day.
I just bought this exact heater a few days ago for my house and should be here tomorrow. I was trying to wrap my head around how to install it and you pretty much gave me the solution to it all. Thank you!
I have installed (and operated) a bunch of the original Espar and Webasto diesel heaters, which have sold for $1500 to sometimes $4000+ depending on the model and accessories. So I know these products well. So it is absolutely crazy to see these knockoff products for $100-$200 as a complete kit, and they mostly all seem to work really well! I think your final install was well done and should be fine. My only concern would be your combustion air intake: 1) turn it upside down, to avoid rain getting into it. 2) The reason they have the combustion air intake designed to be ducted from "outside" space of the heater, as the main design of these heaters originally, was small spaces for boats and truck cabs. So they didn't want to pull inside air for combustion in a small space. However, the downside to pulling outside air, is risk of sucking in water, and also long term risk of moisture/corrosion/debris getting into the combustion chamber and the glow plug (the glow plug is really the heart of the operation). Those glow plugs are very delicate and sensitive to dirt/debris/moisture and corrosion, and other than fuel, they are typically the main source of no-start, running issues, smoking, etc. They need a super clean burn. So at the very least, maybe angle the air intake down, or consider allowing your heater to pull inside shop air, as you have a large space. If you have a lot of dust/debris in your shop, like for wood or metal work, the outside air is better then. It's worth putting a low restriction filter membrane on both the combustion air intake, and the main fan hot air intake, to keep out dust/debris.
the insulation you used is Ceramic insulation. Can be had very cheap online. You should reorient your intake pipe to face downward. That way any moisture that does get in has a chance to drain out before getting into the heater unit.
I absolutely love mine. I currently use it to heat the garage, but it saved the day at Thanksgiving when the furnace went out. Heated the whole house for the most part to ~60°!
Nice clean install! You may want to fully seal the exhaust to heater connection with high heat RTV silicone like Permatex 81160, it'll be leaking a small amount of exhaust into the workshop with only a band clamp and metal to metal interface. I would also consider a 10 amp power supply the absolute minimum for these, lower will work but may not ignite quickly or reliably, leading to the heater sooting up over time. Voltage should also not fall much below 11v at startup as measured by the controller, or you are likely to get late ignition and soot formation.
Keep in mind that cooling the exhaust too much will form quite a bit of water. Water that's on the slightly acidic end of the scale too. Bear in mind that this is from a few minutes of research on these devices.
I've got three of these so far. I use one to heat an enclosed raised patio mounted to the floor in a corner. The others are for boost on bitter cold days and backups. One of which I designed to be more portable with extra fuel capacity. The bulkhead exhaust fitting can deflect more heat than you realize all on it's own. I use 120v ac to 12v dc power supplies. I do think you're install is top notch and it will help a lot of people out. Thank you for posting this.
I have an older one still in the box. My Wife bought it for me 3 years ago. It is not an all in one and has a much larger tank. Now that I've seen your uninstall, it makes me confident I can do the same. Thank you.
I am running an older version right now to keep my boat from freezing! Not often it gets this cold in Phoenix, but really glad to have it. Bought for truck tent camping, but these are so versatile. Great install!
Excellent idea. I have an old radiator to duct the exhaust and act as a heat sink then vent out the window, as previously mentioned. It seems very efficient also. Thanks for this video!
You could use an old PC ATX power supply to power your heater on the cheap. My old one will put out about 15 amps for the 12 volt output. You would just have to ground the enable wire to turn it on.
I have no interest in this product, but the video is so well done I'm watching until the end. I learn a lot from you, and for that I'm grateful. Keep up the good work!
Your CO monitor should be mounted at about 5 feet high, since CO sinks. By the time it got up to over the door you might be breathing more of it than you should be. Great video!
Thanks for the video. I just installed one of these yesterday in my small woodshop! Great point about using the wrong insulation. I just used that stainless thimble you added at the end - I'll have to keep an eye on how hot it gets. I bought the 8K unit instead of the 5K, but I think they are the same (I can only turn the pump up to 5.4 on mine. Still - 5K is about 18,000 Btu/hr (same as the big buddy propane heater on high). Benefits of this diesel heater are no open flame or the moisture in the air from a propane heater
I haven’t yet done it, but I’ve been in oil and propane heating for 35 years. I’m gonna run the exhaust pipe through the center 3 inch pipe and then the 3 inch will be inside of the wall flange that you made but inside that 3 inch pipe with the exhaust running through the middle, I will connect my combustion air to it therefore remove heat from the exhaust pipe and you’ll pre-warm your combustion air, which will give you better combustion and cleaner combustion, and the outside surface will be the same temperature as the outside air temperature on the outside and inside the temperature will be colder than the interior of your home And that will be as safe as you can get❤️🔥❤️🔥🇺🇸
@SilverCymbal, just my opinion. I've never installed one of these, but that intake would work similar to my furnace and it's pointing down. If you do that would it get too close to the exhaust? Who knows..
A lot of waste heat goes out the exhaust pipe, There’s I guy here in Uk who has been experimenting with capturing as much of that heat as possible using long runs of exhaust pipe, then water jacket, then radiator, then sand (heat battery) to maximise efficiency. I did wonder if you could use waste heat through TEC (Thermal Electric conductor) to generate the 12v to run the electronics (you would need a small battery for startup which could be recharged through the TEC. This could remove need for external power supply. Just some thoughts for further experimentation. Also you didn’t mention this can run on waste oil (mixed with kerosene), just watch out for sooting in combustion chamber. Thanks for the post.
I tried to light rockwool with a propane burner/blowlamp - no dice. Have it all thru the roofspace in our house but not the most pleasant job installing it.
For power set up. .If you have a wall outlet close by. Get an old car battery and a cheap automatic charger. Turn on the diesel heater and after a few minutes start the battery charger. Here a 6A version costs 20€/22USD. Use the exhaust heat,any different ways but it'll double the efficiency. All that hrat going outside the exhaust could be used inside. Only thing is now you'll have condensation in the exhaust to route everything downwards so no water can collect anywhere and it will drip out of the exhaust. Best way is to let it drip into a drain as it is slightly acidic. You can also collect the water and use it for plants that like slightly acidic water like blueberries. Same goes for A/C condensate btw and there's no lead in the solder for many years now
I think this will be perfect for my RV. The heater in the RV really isn't sufficient for winter heating so running this outside and running the heat pipe in to the RV should work awesome. Thanks!
Love these things. I install them on my campers and add a 10 gal fuel cell so I only have to fill the fuel tank once a week plus I added a fuel level gauge that mounts inside by the camper control panel. A quick glance and I can keep an eye on the level.
Also would it be more efficient to capture exhaust heat as well if you extended the combustion exhaust pipe to like 8ft inside your garage and then vent outside, thereby capturing some additional heat. You just have to make sure it won't be touching anything else inside.
Similar to the linear shop heaters, we have a few in our facility. Even the exhaust runs radiate quite a bit of heat and aren't insulated just for that reason. They are 20' in the air and you can feel the heat from just the exhaust pipe runs.
There is a maximum exhaust length (I believe 2 meters) as well as maximum number of bends (270 degrees total IIRC). Shorter and straighter the better for efficient combustion and less soot - the combustion side of the fan doesn't blow much air, and even a little restriction can cause these to not run optimally. Generally speaking, scavenging heat from the exhaust has been found to be not worth the effort and additional issues it can cause, though it's possible.
@@iguanamoatthe max run is probably based on using the size of pipe the kit comes with. By increasing the pipe size you can increase the length of the exhaust.
K-Wool is refractory material used in furnaces. I worked for a combustion company for 15 years and we built many a furnace with K-Wool. The hearth needs to be hard bricked but the walls and ceiling can be K-Wool. Installation is a breeze compared to hard bricked refractory and repairs are easy. It's really good stuff and takes temperatures up to 2,300 F. Your install was first class by the way. Very professional looking.
Design sounds like my 99 year old gravity furnace I was forced to retire late last year due to CO issues. We loved the old "octopus" furnace as its design gave us very even, silent heat - except for some expansion noises. Thanks for your intersting and informative videos.
I have 3 1,500 watt electric heaters in my 16x21 garage, they don't really work that well. I should have gone with one of these diesel heaters. Maybe I will get one anyway.
Great video. I like your idea of using a single output port for the exhaust, nicely done by the way. I am thinking about using a diesel heater to heat the crawl space under my cabin. I don't think I'll be mounting the heater itself inside the cabin though. I'd rather have it in a enclosure outside.
It's no wonder you have almost a million subscribers. To the point and very informative. I simply cannot stand wafflers. I'm copying your solution almost exactly, and have used your affiliate links. Thank you!
i love how it is the cheapest option for a forced air vented heater, i have one in my ice house and difference between venting inside and venting outside is huge the reduction in condensation is crazy compared to the old propane heater. I have never had a problem with it and it runs just fine on winter diesel too!
It's a dedicated combustion air intake, so air from there is on a more or less closed loop with the exhaust and will not enter the living area. It needs to be nearish to the exhaust so wind doesn't affect one but not the other, which could cause the heater to flame out due to air going the wrong way.
37 years of heating and ac elect and plumbing experience here and yes the install is clean but on forced combustion devices you should always put your intake below or prior to your exhaust. Exhaust fumes being warmer than ambient air tend to rise and on a draft leading from your Exhaust point to your intake point you can recirculate those carbon filled oxygen deficient games and carbon up the interior of your heat exchanger. Will it positively happen? No. Could it happen? Yes without a doubt. I have seen it several times. Nowdays code is written to correct this and prevent the problem.
@@iguanamoatthis is wrong. There are indeed 2 air circuits but one intake. So intaking any exhaust will end up in the heated air and ultimately in your building. There is a whole series of videos on these heaters and they establish this fact.
@@A_Person_You_Dont_Know You are probably thinking of some other heater. You can see the two intakes in this video, one plumbed outside with the exhaust, and one on the heater box opposite of the hot air outlet.
I was able to heat a van, and a bus, with diesel heaters. Warning, you will need to replace the pump at least once every two years. I would suggest having a couple on hand. Maybe more if you are worried about a war with chy-nah.
You’re literally just on time man! Just built my shop and i’ve been cycling through ideas for heat. My wife purchased me a propane heater and I about died 😂. I’m using an electric one now but of course I don’t want to use this all the time. Propane is my next go to and seems safe
I use a little 200w Lasko mini heater with my solar power stations in my camper for heating the bathroom. If I get caught with a non-working gas heater in a winter emergency the backup plan is to seal off the couch area with mylar blankets and plastic to hold in the heat and use an electric blanket and the Lasko.
Great install. I struggled with this installation idea for weeks before I finally figured it out. Great tip on the k wool. I’ll have to pick some of that up. I did use header wrap on my exhaust as well to limit the heat output of the exposed piece directly beneath the heater. I love what you did with the exhaust overall. I may have to steal your idea and redo my exit to make it nice and clean like that.
Soon me and my girlfriend are moving out and I was thinking about getting one of these to heat the garage. I was thinking I could run the exhaust through a truck intercooler or radiator then have it pipe outside. Then I could put a fan blowing air through the intercooler so you’re getting more heat out of the unit and not just letting the exhaust heat go outside.
If it's a small volume airtight area to be heated you should either provide a small outside to inside vent, or site the intake outside. A larger not so airtight space could have the intate inside i guess. But yes of course heating already heated air is much more effient.
Fantastic Job! Looks nice and clean. I left the intake on mine inside the garage so it doesn’t suck any exhaust fumes in. Heats my 2 car garage no problem.
How cold does it get where you are? I'm thinking about getting one for my 2 car garage but I don't know how safe it is to let it just run all the time.
I had to dump that much cash on my 240v garage heater a couple years ago. It’s LOUD AF and setting a temperature just means it’s going to be beeping all the time as it cycles on and off. Since the fan runs for two minutes every time it turns off it actually makes you feel cold even at the target temp, and it almost always cools so fast that it comes back on within two minutes anyway… so the noise never lets up. I was forced to spend a winter living in an uninsulated and drafty workshop with that thing after an EF4 tornado destroyed my home. After all that beeping while I’m trying to sleep I have a deep-seated hatred for it even though I definitely need it.
I have several of the original German Ebberspacher heaters, work good got them very cheap at an auction many years ago. Six in all two I have restored and the rest for spare parts along with installation odds and ends. New in the mid to late 80’s these were over $1K as a complete kit. The factory pumps in the 90’s cost upwards of $140, but they are high quality metering pumps, not Chinese knock offs.
Considering hot air rises, you might want to put the intake hose lower than the exhause hose. Your current set up makes it possible for the rising exhaust to be sucked in the intake hose.
I've been running mine indoors in my living room.. for four years.. never once have I ever smelled diesel or exhaust fumes... my fresh air intake is indoors run out and up the rear.. taking in indoor air... my exhaust pipe to muffler is run down through the floor then out at an angle sloping downward... with muffler direct weep hole down to allow moisture to drain properly... It's safe to run indoors.. Provided your connections are all secured properly... I'm running an all in one 2023 Vevor burnt orange 8KW system. I use a 110 AC to 12.76 DC converter as my main power supply. With a constant inline amperage / voltage / wattage / amp hours / whrs... monitor to have the ability to see that the power supply is consistent.. These units require constant power and a cool down mode... I also have a 12,9 volt DC Lipo4 battery back up... for instant switch over if power outage occurs. I have a metal pan that it sits on with a double metal insulated sleeve where the unit meets the floor art the exhaust line..out
I see so many run the exhaust to the outside of the building straight off the unit (yes you want it to go outside for sure) but I think running a longer length of it inside the building first would capture more of the radient heat off of it and also be cooler *** going thru the wall to the outside which would also cause less concern about the high temp insulation.
Semi trucks use a smaller version of this called "Espar" heaters. Espar is the company that makes them for semis. They get VERY hot and I think I rarely see them fail. I had no idea they made big ones like this, I might actually get one for my garage.
This certainly looks like it'd be a great way to efficiently heat a 24' x 24' shop. The only concern I would have would be availability of fuel in a SHTF situation or just any non-emergency shortage. I have a pellet stove right now and the diesel heater would definitely be more cost effective (plus easy to install as I already have a thimble and an outside air intake), but there's really no foolproof way to predict which fuel source might be the first to have a major shortage. Where I'm at, the Lignetics wood pellet plant is not far off so with an afternoon drive and I can net several 40lb bags of pellets, though on the other hand, my pellet stove needs AC to run and in a pinch I could run the diesel heater off a fully charged car battery for a good while. Sure is tempting to ponder given how much more cost effective this seems to be. Also very good idea having the CO detector. In the event of exhaust fumes possibly leaking into the heat exchanger, you definitely want to be alerted before it affects you.
Great presentation. Have you looked at Toyotomi or Rinnai heater exhaust pipes which has a pipe within pipe system with exhaust pipe running inside the intake pipe? Uses a maybe 3" hole and no need for insulation as the intake air cools the exhaust pipe. Also, the exhaust pipe extends well past the intake pipe, so they don't mix, and it's installed with 2 degree downward slope to drain any condensation. Think I might buy the same heater and try that in my shed, where I already have a 12-volt deep cycle battery on a solar trickle charger.
I've seen a few people on ytb install these but have never seen them in real life, I'm from Europe btw. All of us here just use small electric heaters, so I'm curious about what's the difference, is it maybe more economical in the US because of much lower diesel prices? Electric heaters seem much more efficient, easier to use and durable.
A part of it could be that the line voltage is only 120V, so electric heaters aren't able to get the juice to heat large spaces as easily, though they certainly exist. These things are meant to be used remotely or where AC voltage isn't even available, and heat larger areas quickly
I live in Northern California. We pay $0.45 per kilowatt hour for the first 292kwh used, then Tier 2 kicks in at $0.56 per kwh. Electric heat is very expensive. Natural gas costs us $2.48 per Therm. That is cheaper heat than electric heat but still costly. I pay $4.68 per US gallon for red off road untaxed diesel fuel. Houses here are about 279 sq meters, 3000 sq feet. The online Nextdoor App has a lot of people complaining that their December 2023 gas and electric bills were very high. Some people mentioned $560 for the month, some said $1300+ because they needed more heat for elderly needs. I burned 37 gallons of red non taxed diesel in December at $4.69 per gallon, $173.53 in the diesel heater, and the combined natural gas (cooking and hot water) and electric use was $158.77. My December cost was $332.30. Our utility has an online app where I can see electric usage down to the hour and natural gas use per day, monthly and yearly charts as well. I am a retired engineer and entertain myself by tracking costs and making efficiency adjustments. I tested propane and kerosenec devices as well. My diesel heater runs off a 100AH LFP lithium battery that gets charged with solar panels. We still have heat when the grid goes down. This happened 8 times in 2023 ranging from 1 hour to 8+ hours and is becoming more frequent. I have an airtight wood burning fireplace but local laws prohibit wood burning on many days. There are no fumes from the diesel heater. It exhausts outside.
@kimmer6 Wow, makes sense. Here where I'm from electricity costs around 3-7 cents/kWh and we rarely have blackouts, plus I have solar and gas prices are dubble than in US. So we're in a completely different situations.
After watching your series for a year-ish, I have yet to purchase or perform any of your recommendations. BUT, maybe, some day. I love your approach and thorough explanation of what/why something is important to consider. Thank you !
there is no compression. there is a burn chamber with a glow plug. the unit squirts fuel onto a screen that surrounds the glow plug. this atomizes the fuel while air is also pumped into the chamber. the glow plug heats the screen, the fuel ignites and burns once the unit is warmed up the glow plug gets shut off. air and fuel get continually added. the whole unit heats up and air is blow around the fins on the outside of the unit to cool it and whammo...hot air.
Get an "LED driver" to power these. They constant 12v output running from a wall outlet. I got a 200w one for $40 to power mine since they pull a little over 150 watts on startup.
I think that’s actually a pretty great way to heat a garage or small workshop. But no option for me.. a gallon of diesel costs around +-$8,50.. wood would be my favorite, but it takes pretty long to heat up and get going. Man.. I hate Germany with its fuel prices (actually it’s mostly taxes..)
Hi Silver Awesome Video as always Thanks for sharing with us. How do you compare the Pellet stove to the diesel heater for warmth /heat to heat open rooms or garages, homes etc??? Would you swap both your heaters to the opposite rooms?? Which seems to work better for faster heat and which one is more economical between the 2 heaters?? So in other words if you had to choose between 1 heater would it be the pellet stove or the diesel heater?? Many thanks again Silver for all you do. We really appreciate you and your professionalism. Thank you again God Bless
A quick question. What harm could there be if I were to put the heat sleave on the exhaust, wrap it all around with the ceramic blanket wrap and then just put it through the thimble with the cap and the hull fitting installed as you did? The ceramic blanket wrap should keep it fairly cooler inside the thimble. My garage wall is not insulated but has 5/8 drywall inside and osb and vinyl siding. Just curious. Thanks on the great video!
Great video! I'm curious if you can find the answer to how the fuel pump became quiet after 10 minutes. From what I understand the fuel pump always needs to be ticking to supply fuel.
Hello, I always thing you do first rate stuff and your place looks great. Why not mount the heater outside and run an insulated duct through the wall? This way the exhaust and fuel are outside of the structure. Remove Carbon Monoxide and fire issues inside the building. It easy enough to build a structure over the heater for rain or snow.
That really wouldn’t eliminate CO problem’s because you still have the heat exchanger. Mounting it inside allows it to be out of the weather and you can just walk up to it to turn it on and adjust it.
Might be willing to try. Need to heat a 1200 sq ft (18 ft high ceiling) steel wall (uninsulated) building in teen and 20* (F) temps with 30-50 mph winds outside. Standard propane heaters are a joke. Concrete floors, steel walls and roof
What the reason install intake filter outside? Installing it inside will cause air to change inside room and you will need less vent. Also if small parts of exaust will break out through sealing it will get them into heater again.
That should be outside in a coverd fireproof shed with the heat coming inside. Something goes wrong and a gallon of Diesel is going to do some major damage inside.
I used to be like u and wanted all kinds of connectivity and tech. Now, I look for no tech and no connectivity 🙂. Regretting the day when I got rid of my dad’s old brace and bit and similar items. Maybe I have been reading too much abt what happens if there is an emp…
What was your decision making process on the height that you mounted it? Not saying I’d do it differently just curious as I KNOW you thought it through.
Hey @SilverCymbal! Long time watcher, first time commenter. Love all of your vids, please keep them coming! I was admiring that extra-large wago connector and was wondering if there is some way to get one?
I have one of these in my van, not the exact model, mine has a diesel tank that's not connected to it, so I had to run lines, but it is more convienant to fill up where I put it instead of having to bring diesel in the middle of my van if I had this model... so it's all about circumstances
What do you think? Parts used: Heater: amzn.to/47o4DcR Exhaust Flange: amzn.to/3NP4GaU Insulation Hose: amzn.to/3vxMsUM High heat insulation: amzn.to/3NVHA2i
Thank you so much!
You should Run an outlet over by the heater with some SJOOW coming out of the box for a 12 volt 30 amp power supply.
The Selkirk links don’t work.
great video as always. you and i don't see eye to eye on some products but this is one we agree on. I have an Hcalory unit. its basically a portable like yours but its in a tool case looking box. i keep mine outside. this way i can avoid any issues with my land lord and the fire codes (not that i give a rats ass what the .gov thinks). I live in Florida yes we don't get nearly as cold but the mid 50s and lower is cold for us. I like to keep my place between 68 and 73. otherwise my chihuahua is freezing or im hot. it was 52 last night here and i kept my place at 73 with mine.
do not run these units on the lowest setting for extended periods of time. they glow plug screen will clog up and you'll get an e-8 error flame out. do not run these with a waste oil, veg oil, or a blend you'll clog the screen. do not use left over fuel from a year ago. doing any of these will result in a clogged glow plug screen.
if you have been running it on low crank it to maximum for an hour this will help clean it out. also running kerosene in these will clean them out. i did all of the above things listed and clogged up mine twice. i had to clean out the combustion chamber with carb cleaner and then run kerosene in it to clean it out. Kero burns hotter. my exhaust turned purple!
you might want to look at the Bureck remote thermostat. its $70 and it clones the remotes of these heaters. once you have it setup it will kick the heater on when the temp falls to what you have it set at and off when the temp reaches a temp you have it set at. me i just keep a digital thermometer on my counter and if it dips below 67 i kick it on and off when i hit 73. but you like gadgets so you know go take a look at it.
also you might want to look at running it with kero. when i ran mine on kero it seemed like it used alot less fuel. kero and diesel have similar btu content but keros flame temp is higher. i can't get kero cheap here. only big box mart k-1 at $10 a gallon vs the $3.50 i pay for diesel but if there is a station up that way i'd look into that.
lastly for everyone else, some small power stations won't work. some of them the 12v outlet won't produce enough 12v wattage to get the glow plug going. if you are planning to run one on a small jackery you might run into this problem. i use a spare car battery hooked to a Hulkman charger (the one Silver Symbal reviewed awhile back) no issues. a lawn tractor battery will work too. a small sla may run into problems.
I think you should be ashamed of yourself for advocating for cheap chinese goods when they're aiding our enemy who's invading a friendly nation. China commits genocide, allows forced marriages with kidnapped victims from Vietnam and Mongolia, restricts basic human rights. AND YOU ARE ADVOCATING FOR THEM?!?!? You're not an American I want in my country, you're a threat to our national security.
It's bad enough when we don't have a choice, but you are straight up saying "Screw the people who designed this, buy a good enough knock off from the country flooding the USA with Fentanyl"
I think you just wrote the book on how to install it right. Looks great! I always appreciate your high quality solutions to common problems.
Very nice of you to say. I am sure there are better ways but some of the installls I saw were very scary I wanted it to be as safe as I could do it without spending a lot
Honestly I looked for weeks when I put mine in the garage 2 years ago and no other guides or installs came even close to how well you pulled this off
Is it possible to install the fresh air intake much farther away from the exhaust? I could be wrong, but it seems like you would be pulling in exhaust fumes and co2. I installed a pellet stove once and was wondering why the adapter had the fresh air so close to the exhaust on those too. Just thinking out loud here. Overall looks like a great set up. Thanks for sharing!
That fresh air intake is strictly for the combustion chamber (separate from the heating air intake) so it shouldn't matter too much.@@nickn383
@@SilverCymbal if you have a house on a post and pier foundation and ran the exhaust the same way through the floor would it be safe?
I have 5 of them, these are great. I also heat my garage with one, and a travel trailer, as well as a small greenhouse. If you duct the exhaust through an old large cast iron steam radiator it both cools the output gas to around 90 degrees, silences it, and acts as a useful thermal battery. I have a few videos about it here on YT and am on year 3 of doing it with no negative side effects to speak of. It's useful for heating water and even cooking as the cast iron where the diesel heater exhaust enters it gets to 350°f.
That’s an excellent use of the “waste” heat; well done!
@robertmunroe3976 Thank you Robert, it also works fir my 2 stroke small generator and large 8hp 4 stroke generator to both recover heat, but also it completely silences the outdoor exhaust noise believe it or not. I spent years trying to fabricate diy generator "mufflers" that did little to quiet the exhaust, only to find during my experiments that a cast iron steam radiator does the J O B
@@ProlificInvention wow, very cool. My old Thermodynamics professor would love your solutions!
Good thinking! Your idea of the radiator might have just gotten me to make up my mind on switching over to one of these in lieu of my pellet stove in my shop....
@@NordicDan I don't know what pellet stove you have, but mine has been great and effortless for 3 years now. I keep a 24x24 70 degrees, in sub zero temps, on just under a bag a day.
The manufacture owes you money now for creating such a nice installation guide.
I just bought this exact heater a few days ago for my house and should be here tomorrow. I was trying to wrap my head around how to install it and you pretty much gave me the solution to it all. Thank you!
Im so jealous of the quality of your videos. The content, videography, and voiceover work are (and have always been) superb.
Great video
Wow, that is really nice of you to say. Thank you
I have installed (and operated) a bunch of the original Espar and Webasto diesel heaters, which have sold for $1500 to sometimes $4000+ depending on the model and accessories. So I know these products well. So it is absolutely crazy to see these knockoff products for $100-$200 as a complete kit, and they mostly all seem to work really well! I think your final install was well done and should be fine. My only concern would be your combustion air intake: 1) turn it upside down, to avoid rain getting into it. 2) The reason they have the combustion air intake designed to be ducted from "outside" space of the heater, as the main design of these heaters originally, was small spaces for boats and truck cabs. So they didn't want to pull inside air for combustion in a small space.
However, the downside to pulling outside air, is risk of sucking in water, and also long term risk of moisture/corrosion/debris getting into the combustion chamber and the glow plug (the glow plug is really the heart of the operation). Those glow plugs are very delicate and sensitive to dirt/debris/moisture and corrosion, and other than fuel, they are typically the main source of no-start, running issues, smoking, etc. They need a super clean burn.
So at the very least, maybe angle the air intake down, or consider allowing your heater to pull inside shop air, as you have a large space. If you have a lot of dust/debris in your shop, like for wood or metal work, the outside air is better then.
It's worth putting a low restriction filter membrane on both the combustion air intake, and the main fan hot air intake, to keep out dust/debris.
the insulation you used is Ceramic insulation. Can be had very cheap online. You should reorient your intake pipe to face downward. That way any moisture that does get in has a chance to drain out before getting into the heater unit.
I absolutely love mine. I currently use it to heat the garage, but it saved the day at Thanksgiving when the furnace went out. Heated the whole house for the most part to ~60°!
Nice clean install! You may want to fully seal the exhaust to heater connection with high heat RTV silicone like Permatex 81160, it'll be leaking a small amount of exhaust into the workshop with only a band clamp and metal to metal interface. I would also consider a 10 amp power supply the absolute minimum for these, lower will work but may not ignite quickly or reliably, leading to the heater sooting up over time. Voltage should also not fall much below 11v at startup as measured by the controller, or you are likely to get late ignition and soot formation.
Keep in mind that cooling the exhaust too much will form quite a bit of water. Water that's on the slightly acidic end of the scale too. Bear in mind that this is from a few minutes of research on these devices.
I've got three of these so far. I use one to heat an enclosed raised patio mounted to the floor in a corner. The others are for boost on bitter cold days and backups. One of which I designed to be more portable with extra fuel capacity. The bulkhead exhaust fitting can deflect more heat than you realize all on it's own. I use 120v ac to 12v dc power supplies. I do think you're install is top notch and it will help a lot of people out. Thank you for posting this.
I have an older one still in the box. My Wife bought it for me 3 years ago. It is not an all in one and has a much larger tank. Now that I've seen your uninstall, it makes me confident I can do the same. Thank you.
I am running an older version right now to keep my boat from freezing! Not often it gets this cold in Phoenix, but really glad to have it. Bought for truck tent camping, but these are so versatile. Great install!
yeah it's 32 degrees outside my back door right now in phoenix - wish i had one of these for my shed/workshop!
Excellent idea. I have an old radiator to duct the exhaust and act as a heat sink then vent out the window, as previously mentioned. It seems very efficient also. Thanks for this video!
You could use an old PC ATX power supply to power your heater on the cheap. My old one will put out about 15 amps for the 12 volt output. You would just have to ground the enable wire to turn it on.
jump the green wire to any black wire IIRC. thats how i would do a quick and dirty test of a PS back in the day.
Used a old HP server PSU 80Amp on tap is crazy, 12v for the heater but also to start a small moped or bike. win/win
Nice hack.
I have no interest in this product, but the video is so well done I'm watching until the end. I learn a lot from you, and for that I'm grateful. Keep up the good work!
I work for an airport and get unusable jet fule sumps. And that's what I put in mine works vary well had mine for 2 years now
Your CO monitor should be mounted at about 5 feet high, since CO sinks. By the time it got up to over the door you might be breathing more of it than you should be. Great video!
Thanks for the video. I just installed one of these yesterday in my small woodshop! Great point about using the wrong insulation. I just used that stainless thimble you added at the end - I'll have to keep an eye on how hot it gets. I bought the 8K unit instead of the 5K, but I think they are the same (I can only turn the pump up to 5.4 on mine. Still - 5K is about 18,000 Btu/hr (same as the big buddy propane heater on high). Benefits of this diesel heater are no open flame or the moisture in the air from a propane heater
and diesel has 50% more btus per gallon than propane.
I haven’t yet done it, but I’ve been in oil and propane heating for 35 years. I’m gonna run the exhaust pipe through the center 3 inch pipe and then the 3 inch will be inside of the wall flange that you made but inside that 3 inch pipe with the exhaust running through the middle, I will connect my combustion air to it therefore remove heat from the exhaust pipe and you’ll pre-warm your combustion air, which will give you better combustion and cleaner combustion, and the outside surface will be the same temperature as the outside air temperature on the outside and inside the temperature will be colder than the interior of your home And that will be as safe as you can get❤️🔥❤️🔥🇺🇸
I would turn the cold intake down in case water gets in, it will drip out.
That is a really good idea, some how my brain was thinking the opposite.
I’m glad someone posted this,
I was thinking the same thing.
@SilverCymbal, just my opinion. I've never installed one of these, but that intake would work similar to my furnace and it's pointing down. If you do that would it get too close to the exhaust? Who knows..
A lot of waste heat goes out the exhaust pipe, There’s I guy here in Uk who has been experimenting with capturing as much of that heat as possible using long runs of exhaust pipe, then water jacket, then radiator, then sand (heat battery) to maximise efficiency. I did wonder if you could use waste heat through TEC (Thermal Electric conductor) to generate the 12v to run the electronics (you would need a small battery for startup which could be recharged through the TEC. This could remove need for external power supply. Just some thoughts for further experimentation. Also you didn’t mention this can run on waste oil (mixed with kerosene), just watch out for sooting in combustion chamber. Thanks for the post.
Just a tip you should try to keep the intake below the exhaust to avoid any recirculation.
Also you can use rock wool insulation. 2000 degrees flash point
i used roxul..
I tried to light rockwool with a propane burner/blowlamp - no dice. Have it all thru the roofspace in our house but not the most pleasant job installing it.
You are the Best professional reviewer who comprehensively explains everything
Thank you
For power set up. .If you have a wall outlet close by.
Get an old car battery and a cheap automatic charger. Turn on the diesel heater and after a few minutes start the battery charger.
Here a 6A version costs 20€/22USD.
Use the exhaust heat,any different ways but it'll double the efficiency. All that hrat going outside the exhaust could be used inside.
Only thing is now you'll have condensation in the exhaust to route everything downwards so no water can collect anywhere and it will drip out of the exhaust. Best way is to let it drip into a drain as it is slightly acidic.
You can also collect the water and use it for plants that like slightly acidic water like blueberries.
Same goes for A/C condensate btw and there's no lead in the solder for many years now
I bought one a few months back and they are amazing heaters.
What brand, the one he’s using?
@@keithphillips1234 The same one in this video. I'm using mine in a 6x10 utility trailer that I'm converting into a camper/off grid tiny house.
I think this will be perfect for my RV. The heater in the RV really isn't sufficient for winter heating so running this outside and running the heat pipe in to the RV should work awesome. Thanks!
Love these things. I install them on my campers and add a 10 gal fuel cell so I only have to fill the fuel tank once a week plus I added a fuel level gauge that mounts inside by the camper control panel. A quick glance and I can keep an eye on the level.
Also would it be more efficient to capture exhaust heat as well if you extended the combustion exhaust pipe to like 8ft inside your garage and then vent outside, thereby capturing some additional heat. You just have to make sure it won't be touching anything else inside.
Similar to the linear shop heaters, we have a few in our facility. Even the exhaust runs radiate quite a bit of heat and aren't insulated just for that reason. They are 20' in the air and you can feel the heat from just the exhaust pipe runs.
There is a maximum exhaust length (I believe 2 meters) as well as maximum number of bends (270 degrees total IIRC). Shorter and straighter the better for efficient combustion and less soot - the combustion side of the fan doesn't blow much air, and even a little restriction can cause these to not run optimally. Generally speaking, scavenging heat from the exhaust has been found to be not worth the effort and additional issues it can cause, though it's possible.
@@iguanamoatthe max run is probably based on using the size of pipe the kit comes with. By increasing the pipe size you can increase the length of the exhaust.
K-Wool is refractory material used in furnaces. I worked for a combustion company for 15 years and we built many a furnace with K-Wool. The hearth needs to be hard bricked but the walls and ceiling can be K-Wool. Installation is a breeze compared to hard bricked refractory and repairs are easy. It's really good stuff and takes temperatures up to 2,300 F. Your install was first class by the way. Very professional looking.
I love mine that I have in my van. Sips fuel & is quiet though the tickles fuel pump would be a great future upgrade for mine.
We been using this tech in big rigs for many years. Saves tons of fuel over idling.
Design sounds like my 99 year old gravity furnace I was forced to retire late last year due to CO issues. We loved the old "octopus" furnace as its design gave us very even, silent heat - except for some expansion noises. Thanks for your intersting and informative videos.
Well since its a german Eberspächer Design and the Patent ran out like 3 years ago, 20 years about cuts it
I have 3 1,500 watt electric heaters in my 16x21 garage, they don't really work that well. I should have gone with one of these diesel heaters. Maybe I will get one anyway.
Great video. I like your idea of using a single output port for the exhaust, nicely done by the way. I am thinking about using a diesel heater to heat the crawl space under my cabin. I don't think I'll be mounting the heater itself inside the cabin though. I'd rather have it in a enclosure outside.
This was the setup I’ve been looking for! (For entertainment purposes only 🤫). Thanks for posting this.
It's no wonder you have almost a million subscribers. To the point and very informative. I simply cannot stand wafflers. I'm copying your solution almost exactly, and have used your affiliate links. Thank you!
i got one from vevor!!! been waiting for u to do a post on this!!! love it..heats my basement cheaply and quickly
i love how it is the cheapest option for a forced air vented heater, i have one in my ice house and difference between venting inside and venting outside is huge the reduction in condensation is crazy compared to the old propane heater. I have never had a problem with it and it runs just fine on winter diesel too!
Looks great. My only concern would be having the intake so close to the exhaust personally.
It's a dedicated combustion air intake, so air from there is on a more or less closed loop with the exhaust and will not enter the living area. It needs to be nearish to the exhaust so wind doesn't affect one but not the other, which could cause the heater to flame out due to air going the wrong way.
37 years of heating and ac elect and plumbing experience here and yes the install is clean but on forced combustion devices you should always put your intake below or prior to your exhaust. Exhaust fumes being warmer than ambient air tend to rise and on a draft leading from your Exhaust point to your intake point you can recirculate those carbon filled oxygen deficient games and carbon up the interior of your heat exchanger. Will it positively happen? No. Could it happen? Yes without a doubt. I have seen it several times. Nowdays code is written to correct this and prevent the problem.
@@iguanamoatthis is wrong. There are indeed 2 air circuits but one intake. So intaking any exhaust will end up in the heated air and ultimately in your building. There is a whole series of videos on these heaters and they establish this fact.
@@A_Person_You_Dont_Know You are probably thinking of some other heater. You can see the two intakes in this video, one plumbed outside with the exhaust, and one on the heater box opposite of the hot air outlet.
@@iguanamoat Do you own one? I do and if you get exhaust in that intake you can smell it. I like this channel but he gets a lot wrong on this video.
I was able to heat a van, and a bus, with diesel heaters.
Warning, you will need to replace the pump at least once every two years. I would suggest having a couple on hand. Maybe more if you are worried about a war with chy-nah.
Love this idea, wish I would have installed this in our small camping trailer years ago (sold now) love how safety is a priority for you.
You’re literally just on time man! Just built my shop and i’ve been cycling through ideas for heat. My wife purchased me a propane heater and I about died 😂. I’m using an electric one now but of course I don’t want to use this all the time. Propane is my next go to and seems safe
I use a little 200w Lasko mini heater with my solar power stations in my camper for heating the bathroom. If I get caught with a non-working gas heater in a winter emergency the backup plan is to seal off the couch area with mylar blankets and plastic to hold in the heat and use an electric blanket and the Lasko.
Great install. I struggled with this installation idea for weeks before I finally figured it out. Great tip on the k wool. I’ll have to pick some of that up. I did use header wrap on my exhaust as well to limit the heat output of the exposed piece directly beneath the heater. I love what you did with the exhaust overall. I may have to steal your idea and redo my exit to make it nice and clean like that.
i installed one of these in my campervan a year ago... Love it!
I have the same diesel heater and its been fabulous! Warms up my garage just right
I’ve always been intrigued by these diesel heaters. I really like your install. 👍
It’s crazy that something like this is only 100 bucks , I will be installing one in my shed
My 8k just showed up...ate to much propane with the other heater. i cant wait to run this thing.
Soon me and my girlfriend are moving out and I was thinking about getting one of these to heat the garage. I was thinking I could run the exhaust through a truck intercooler or radiator then have it pipe outside. Then I could put a fan blowing air through the intercooler so you’re getting more heat out of the unit and not just letting the exhaust heat go outside.
Put the intake inside. It's easier to heat 70⁰ air than 20⁰.
Plus do don't have to worry about sucking exhaust inside the building
If it's a small volume airtight area to be heated you should either provide a small outside to inside vent, or site the intake outside. A larger not so airtight space could have the intate inside i guess. But yes of course heating already heated air is much more effient.
The soundtrack of your life in the winter if you’ve ever been a long haul trucker.
Looks like a great product. Definitely in the back pocket for future heating needs.
Fantastic Job! Looks nice and clean. I left the intake on mine inside the garage so it doesn’t suck any exhaust fumes in. Heats my 2 car garage no problem.
How cold does it get where you are? I'm thinking about getting one for my 2 car garage but I don't know how safe it is to let it just run all the time.
I had to dump that much cash on my 240v garage heater a couple years ago. It’s LOUD AF and setting a temperature just means it’s going to be beeping all the time as it cycles on and off. Since the fan runs for two minutes every time it turns off it actually makes you feel cold even at the target temp, and it almost always cools so fast that it comes back on within two minutes anyway… so the noise never lets up.
I was forced to spend a winter living in an uninsulated and drafty workshop with that thing after an EF4 tornado destroyed my home. After all that beeping while I’m trying to sleep I have a deep-seated hatred for it even though I definitely need it.
I have several of the original German Ebberspacher heaters, work good got them very cheap at an auction many years ago. Six in all two I have restored and the rest for spare parts along with installation odds and ends. New in the mid to late 80’s these were over $1K as a complete kit. The factory pumps in the 90’s cost upwards of $140, but they are high quality metering pumps, not Chinese knock offs.
Considering hot air rises, you might want to put the intake hose lower than the exhause hose. Your current set up makes it possible for the rising exhaust to be sucked in the intake hose.
I've been running mine indoors in my living room.. for four years.. never once have I ever smelled diesel or exhaust fumes... my fresh air intake is indoors run out and up the rear.. taking in indoor air... my exhaust pipe to muffler is run down through the floor then out at an angle sloping downward... with muffler direct weep hole down to allow moisture to drain properly... It's safe to run indoors.. Provided your connections are all secured properly... I'm running an all in one 2023 Vevor burnt orange 8KW system. I use a 110 AC to 12.76 DC converter as my main power supply. With a constant inline amperage / voltage / wattage / amp hours / whrs... monitor to have the ability to see that the power supply is consistent.. These units require constant power and a cool down mode... I also have a 12,9 volt DC Lipo4 battery back up... for instant switch over if power outage occurs. I have a metal pan that it sits on with a double metal insulated sleeve where the unit meets the floor art the exhaust line..out
1:20 lmao whats good with the giant wago?
I see so many run the exhaust to the outside of the building straight off the unit (yes you want it to go outside for sure) but I think running a longer length of it inside the building first would capture more of the radient heat off of it and also be cooler *** going thru the wall to the outside which would also cause less concern about the high temp insulation.
I like what you did by cleaning up that exhaust- nice job 👍
Semi trucks use a smaller version of this called "Espar" heaters. Espar is the company that makes them for semis. They get VERY hot and I think I rarely see them fail. I had no idea they made big ones like this, I might actually get one for my garage.
This certainly looks like it'd be a great way to efficiently heat a 24' x 24' shop. The only concern I would have would be availability of fuel in a SHTF situation or just any non-emergency shortage. I have a pellet stove right now and the diesel heater would definitely be more cost effective (plus easy to install as I already have a thimble and an outside air intake), but there's really no foolproof way to predict which fuel source might be the first to have a major shortage. Where I'm at, the Lignetics wood pellet plant is not far off so with an afternoon drive and I can net several 40lb bags of pellets, though on the other hand, my pellet stove needs AC to run and in a pinch I could run the diesel heater off a fully charged car battery for a good while.
Sure is tempting to ponder given how much more cost effective this seems to be.
Also very good idea having the CO detector. In the event of exhaust fumes possibly leaking into the heat exchanger, you definitely want to be alerted before it affects you.
Bio diesel as well as ethanol can be made without too much trouble
Great presentation. Have you looked at Toyotomi or Rinnai heater exhaust pipes which has a pipe within pipe system with exhaust pipe running inside the intake pipe? Uses a maybe 3" hole and no need for insulation as the intake air cools the exhaust pipe. Also, the exhaust pipe extends well past the intake pipe, so they don't mix, and it's installed with 2 degree downward slope to drain any condensation. Think I might buy the same heater and try that in my shed, where I already have a 12-volt deep cycle battery on a solar trickle charger.
Running this on red diesel in the uk makes it basically free to run 😏
I've seen a few people on ytb install these but have never seen them in real life, I'm from Europe btw. All of us here just use small electric heaters, so I'm curious about what's the difference, is it maybe more economical in the US because of much lower diesel prices? Electric heaters seem much more efficient, easier to use and durable.
A part of it could be that the line voltage is only 120V, so electric heaters aren't able to get the juice to heat large spaces as easily, though they certainly exist. These things are meant to be used remotely or where AC voltage isn't even available, and heat larger areas quickly
I live in Northern California. We pay $0.45 per kilowatt hour for the first 292kwh used, then Tier 2 kicks in at $0.56 per kwh. Electric heat is very expensive. Natural gas costs us $2.48 per Therm. That is cheaper heat than electric heat but still costly. I pay $4.68 per US gallon for red off road untaxed diesel fuel. Houses here are about 279 sq meters, 3000 sq feet. The online Nextdoor App has a lot of people complaining that their December 2023 gas and electric bills were very high. Some people mentioned $560 for the month, some said $1300+ because they needed more heat for elderly needs.
I burned 37 gallons of red non taxed diesel in December at $4.69 per gallon, $173.53 in the diesel heater, and the combined natural gas (cooking and hot water) and electric use was $158.77. My December cost was $332.30. Our utility has an online app where I can see electric usage down to the hour and natural gas use per day, monthly and yearly charts as well.
I am a retired engineer and entertain myself by tracking costs and making efficiency adjustments. I tested propane and kerosenec devices as well. My diesel heater runs off a 100AH LFP lithium battery that gets charged with solar panels. We still have heat when the grid goes down. This happened 8 times in 2023 ranging from 1 hour to 8+ hours and is becoming more frequent. I have an airtight wood burning fireplace but local laws prohibit wood burning on many days. There are no fumes from the diesel heater. It exhausts outside.
@kimmer6 Wow, makes sense. Here where I'm from electricity costs around 3-7 cents/kWh and we rarely have blackouts, plus I have solar and gas prices are dubble than in US. So we're in a completely different situations.
I’ve got the same one. Going to do something similar in my garage. It works great I recommend them for sure.
After watching your series for a year-ish, I have yet to purchase or perform any of your recommendations. BUT, maybe, some day. I love your approach and thorough explanation of what/why something is important to consider. Thank you !
The model's I've seen are the slimmer versions, people sometimes use cheap vespa mufflers to make the sound very quiet.
on some engines its required to have a muffler on it to keep the compression correct or else it won't start
there is no compression. there is a burn chamber with a glow plug. the unit squirts fuel onto a screen that surrounds the glow plug. this atomizes the fuel while air is also pumped into the chamber. the glow plug heats the screen, the fuel ignites and burns once the unit is warmed up the glow plug gets shut off. air and fuel get continually added. the whole unit heats up and air is blow around the fins on the outside of the unit to cool it and whammo...hot air.
I think I got my 2 stroke and diesel engines mixed up@@MrSGL21
Get an "LED driver" to power these. They constant 12v output running from a wall outlet. I got a 200w one for $40 to power mine since they pull a little over 150 watts on startup.
I think that’s actually a pretty great way to heat a garage or small workshop. But no option for me.. a gallon of diesel costs around +-$8,50.. wood would be my favorite, but it takes pretty long to heat up and get going. Man.. I hate Germany with its fuel prices (actually it’s mostly taxes..)
Hi Silver
Awesome Video as always
Thanks for sharing with us.
How do you compare the Pellet stove to the diesel heater for warmth /heat to heat open rooms or garages, homes etc???
Would you swap both your heaters to the opposite rooms??
Which seems to work better for faster heat and which one is more economical between the 2 heaters??
So in other words if you had to choose between 1 heater would it be the pellet stove or the diesel heater??
Many thanks again Silver for all you do.
We really appreciate you and your professionalism.
Thank you again
God Bless
A quick question. What harm could there be if I were to put the heat sleave on the exhaust, wrap it all around with the ceramic blanket wrap and then just put it through the thimble with the cap and the hull fitting installed as you did? The ceramic blanket wrap should keep it fairly cooler inside the thimble. My garage wall is not insulated but has 5/8 drywall inside and osb and vinyl siding. Just curious. Thanks on the great video!
Seems like a good heater. I assume it is a pretty dry heat and not adding moisture like propane or natural gas heaters will.
Correct.
If you have access to heating oil, I'd just use that. It's basically the same thing. It just doesn't have road taxes.
With exhaust pipe at 400 degrees, it would seem smart to extend the exhaust into a radiator, before it exits the building
Great video! I'm curious if you can find the answer to how the fuel pump became quiet after 10 minutes. From what I understand the fuel pump always needs to be ticking to supply fuel.
Thank you for making mistakes so we don't have to. OK, that sounded weird, but I think you get my intended message.
Same type of bunk heater is now becoming common in semi trucks. They're great
Clean setup I like what you did my only worry is your air intake taking in exhaust fumes
You could use a heat exchanger to extract heat from exhaust, increase the heating performance
Hello, I always thing you do first rate stuff and your place looks great. Why not mount the heater outside and run an insulated duct through the wall? This way the exhaust and fuel are outside of the structure. Remove Carbon Monoxide and fire issues inside the building. It easy enough to build a structure over the heater for rain or snow.
That really wouldn’t eliminate CO problem’s because you still have the heat exchanger. Mounting it inside allows it to be out of the weather and you can just walk up to it to turn it on and adjust it.
Thoughts of using inside air for the intake in a metal building with zero insolation?
Might be willing to try. Need to heat a 1200 sq ft (18 ft high ceiling) steel wall (uninsulated) building in teen and 20* (F) temps with 30-50 mph winds outside. Standard propane heaters are a joke.
Concrete floors, steel walls and roof
Happy Sunday 🙏🙏
What the reason install intake filter outside? Installing it inside will cause air to change inside room and you will need less vent. Also if small parts of exaust will break out through sealing it will get them into heater again.
Very interesting. I've never heard of this device, but it seems like a viable way to heat a space. I may try and use this for my tiki bar.
That should be outside in a coverd fireproof shed with the heat coming inside.
Something goes wrong and a gallon of Diesel is going to do some major damage inside.
Great video, the intake could have stayed inside for a little more efficiency as it would pull the inside room air. 👍🏼
You may want to move that intake away from the exhaust. Very clean install.
I’m considering getting one and using a car battery hooked up to a solar panel trickle charger to power it.
Have a look at the Afterburner controller. Gives you wifi and very granular control over the unit. Also supports MQTT for homeassistant.
I used to be like u and wanted all kinds of connectivity and tech. Now, I look for no tech and no connectivity 🙂. Regretting the day when I got rid of my dad’s old brace and bit and similar items. Maybe I have been reading too much abt what happens if there is an emp…
@@gsftom I'll stick with having the cabin warmed up by the time we get there.
What was your decision making process on the height that you mounted it? Not saying I’d do it differently just curious as I KNOW you thought it through.
Probably so he could just walk up to it to turn it on
@@stevenbeach748 I was thinking about things like: heat rises, ease of re-fueling, etc…..
@@dsmith2858 yes, I would put it a little lower for those reasons too.
Hey @SilverCymbal! Long time watcher, first time commenter. Love all of your vids, please keep them coming! I was admiring that extra-large wago connector and was wondering if there is some way to get one?
What was the max wattage you'd usually see from this model while igniting the glow plug? Any issues with the power stations being overloaded?
I have one of these in my van, not the exact model, mine has a diesel tank that's not connected to it, so I had to run lines, but it is more convienant to fill up where I put it instead of having to bring diesel in the middle of my van if I had this model... so it's all about circumstances
Another awesome recommendation as well everything to get it going. Thanks!