I have run the same portable generator for 22 years with only one carb failure. I use only non-ethanol fuel treated with Stabil. I keep 60 gallons on hand. After 6-8 months I use the fuel in my car and refill the containers. I average 1 minimal outage a month (< 2 hours) and 2 major outages a year (over 18 hours). I learned my lesson in 1999 during an ice storm without power for 4 days and have had a generator ever since. I interlock my main and back feed from a shop. Recently I added a soft start to my heat pump and can now run my cooling during an outage. I rely on kerosene heat in the winter since the HP draws too much power for the heat strips.
@@KhoiNguyen-ic5pi I use a Micro-Air EasyStart. It is on my Goodman 2-ton. Had it almost 1 year and zero issues. Ran my heat pump once late last year and already twice this summer (about 1 hour then about 4 hours).
Soo true! I’m a power lineman for a local utility. I can’t tell you how often we go out to a customer’s home for a service upgrade. The electrician is there on site & we co-ordinate with them to cut the power. The customer has a generator on the property. We get the ok & cut power & we are waiting to hear the generator start? Some of the time it doesn’t. Or if they have a roll out? They wheel it out & it won’t start. You would think they would do a dry run to be sure everything is working correctly? They don’t bother. Then there is a panic that sets in. The electrician usually has battery tools so he’s not affected. The homeowner has an important business meeting. Well they will miss that meeting.
Ha ha zombies knocking on your door... I finally got around to eliminating the cheater back feed cable. Put in monster(200 A) manual transfer switch. Also reduced connections by running the cable out through the basement wall. Direct plug in.
@@bobbean4702 I had an electrician wire up an inlet on the side of my house right next to where I was placed my roll out. He installed an inter lock in my CB panel. I bought a hard wire remote for my genny & the start/stop is right by CB panel as well. Now my wife is able to start our generator from inside the house anytime the power goes out. 1 push button & 3 switches & the power is restored. No more frantic calls from home while I’m at work. I just bought peace of mind. Well worth it!
Great video. But I would add a point to the maintenance section: NEVER leave untreated ethanol fuel in your generator. (Or any other small engine you have) EVER!! Ethanol is a small engine KILLER. Even a small engine mechanic (like me) would take a couple hours to remove the carb, clean it, reinstall it, and get the generator running again after ethanol fuel has sat inside the carb for longer than 90 days. If you filled up your generator with untreated ethanol gas "last year" just to be ready for a power outage, you will be screwed when you need it. My tips: *BEST: Use non-ethanol gas if you can. (Not every area even offers it.) *2nd: Store generator with an engineered fuel, and keep treated ethanol fuel on hand. (Treated with fuel stabilizer). But, every 90 days dump that treated ethanol into your vehicle, and get a fresh batch. Sound complicated? Not half as complicated as having your generator not start in an emergency..........
This has NEVER been an issue for me. Why not? Every time I run my generator, I don't just hit the kill switch when I'm done. Instead, I cut off the fuel supply to the carb. Most generators have a switch or a dial to cut off the gas going to the carb. I (once the power comes back) 1. kill the gas going to my carb by turning the dial 2. walk and unplug the generator (I have a 60 foot long cord and the generator is plugged in far from its actual location) and start rolling it up for storage By the time I finish rolling up the cord, the generator sputters to a stop, since it has no more gas. There will be NO GAS in the carb at this point. I've done this method for 15 years and never once had an issue starting my generator and we've lost power numerous times, twice for 5 days. I will say this much, however: running your generator on gas, in general, is too much work, and I'd advise anyone to run it on propane instead. Get yourself a nice 500 gallon tank and have a plumber run a line to where you're going to run your generator. Otherwise, you'll be doing a lot of (especially for extended outages) 1. Going to the gas station 2. Carting smelly gas in your car (your car WILL smell like gas after) 3. Setting a periodic alarm to fill up the generator Yeah, it sucks having $2K worth of propane just sitting there (especially if you don't use it for your stove, etc). But think of it as insurance. If you were in Buffalo a few weeks ago, it could have saved your life.
I do one better. I have a fuel injected generator. I only use treated fuel in my genny. My genny has a fuel pump. It even has an after market auxiliary fuel tank that can be connected to it. I have enough fuel in my generator to run at 1/2 load for 18 hours. After I come home from work it’s nearly empty. I hook up my already full auxiliary fuel tank & refill my main tank. That buys me 48 hours of run time at 1/2 load. Mine stays in a locked enclosure on a trickle charger. I periodically will start it & run without load, sometimes with load. I have had it for five years & it always starts on the first attempt. It’s peace of mind. I think of it as an insurance policy I hope I never need? But if I do? It’s always ready.
@@paulmysliborski4832 I have an interlock for my generator. Your right. The interlock protects not only lineman but the general public at large. As soon as we exit our trucks in an area without power we have a tailboard to discuss the dangers & ofcourse the issue of “backfeed”. In all my years of doing what I do I can only think of two times where a generator was hooked up illegally through a “killer cord”. One was a state police officers house. We pulled his meter for his house. The second we placed a ground on our primary because the homeowner was hostile. That ground tripped his main on his generator. We cut off his service & called the building building dept. They came out & pulled his certificate of occupancy. They padlocked his door after everyone was out. We got everyone else on but him.
I actually ordered a spare carburetor for my predator generator a couple days after I bought generator! Cost was less than $30! Well worth the money just in case!
The interlock's critical role is NOT to protect your generator (although it does) it is to ensure that your generator is not back feeding on the grid while linemen are working through the snowmageddon/zombie apocalypse to get the power back on to your grid.
Especially so, given that the linesmen will usually be working on the other side of a transformer. Your little 240 V gennie can deliver ten times or higher voltage thanks to the magic of transformer action.
Reeeeealy! Any lineman who doesn't concider all lines live isn't gonna last long. Rule #1 all lines are live. Suicide cords all day. Dont touch bare wires you could die, don't put a gun to your head and pull the trigger, you could die. It's a shame you have to save people from themselves, common sense just isn't commen anymore
I run my portable generators with a load for 30 minutes every month during our emergency siren checks on the first Saturday of every month. I also run the whole house on a generator for 30 minutes twice a year during each time change (you have to reset you clocks anyway).
Late to the party, great advice. Couple of things I want to mention. When I installed our generator built a generator shed so we could store it and protect it from weather when it was running. It is an electric start generator so purchased a battery maintainer and wired a door interlock switch to a 12V LED light. That way as soon as I open the door the light comes on so you are not working in the dark. Not really a hack but a topic you didn't mention assuming your generator runs on gas figure out worst case usage and keep enough stabilized gas on hand. Here in NH winter snow/ice storms can result in week long outage. I maintain five 5-gallon gas cans with stabilizer. Using the genie a few hours in the morning and evening the gas should last for a week. One can is used for yard machines. The cans are numbers and rotated in order. If gas gets too old I dump it into one of our cars. Since the cans are sealed I have not had a problem with gas a year old. I keep a log book and update it each time I run the genie and track gas purchase. Probably overkill but as you posted you want to make sure your emergency generator will actually work during a power outage. Test the generator every 3-months or so for half hour or so. I use a 1500 W space heater as a dummy load. I run the tank out of gas and then switch the fuel shutoff to off. There is always some gas in the tank and you don't want it sitting/evaporating in the carb fuel bowl.
If you can, find a gas station in your area that sells non-ethanol gas and keep a couple of 5 gal containers treated with a gas stabilizer on hand. Ethanol gas will eat up your carb in no time.
Love this! Some great advice/tips from you AND your audience! Upgrading from 100 to 200 A and installing interlock in April after the worst flooding in our area since I moved here in 2019. My sump was pumping out about every minute for well over a day and continuing less frequently for the next three. Glad it held up. That's also being checked over in April. Taking all necessary precautions against basement flooding and power outages is my top priority now with the weather becoming so unpredictable. Thanks for this video.
I do small engine repair. Number ONE issue; bad gas. People stick that generator in a corner, pull it out 2 years later, when needed, and wonder why it won't start.
GREAT VIDEO. He is absolutely correct....Corrective and Preventative maintenance. He stated quarterly, I go for monthly.....AT LEAST 1 Hour UNDER LOAD. That load can be anything....a couple of coffee pots, an air fryer, a toaster or two. You would be surprised how much wattage a toaster takes! You do not have to plug it into the house to run it under load. Also, if you use gasoline, be sure when you are ready to shut the generator down, you turn the fuel value off in order to allow the system to use all the fuel out of the lines, etc. Also OIL CHANGES every year or every 100 Hours. Quick tale: I was an "Auxiliaries officer" aboard a Cruiser. I had the emergency generator, hot water, steam, and Heating/AC equipment. I begged and pleaded for the captain to let us test under load the generator. Always got a "no" answer. I wrote memos, went to the cabin, had the CHENG ( Chief Engineer ) bring it up, all to no avail. One day out at sea we had the Admiral onboard when the ship's boilers dropped the load. I was on the bridge as the CO and Flag waited for the Emergency generator to kick in....which did not occur for about 10 minutes. Both officers were pissed and in the chewing out process, I brought up the point that I was not allowed to run or test the generator. The CO was quite forceful in his rebuttal....til i produced memos with his red "DENIED" scribble and signature. After that, I was allowed to run the EMERGENCY Generator whenever I need to. He was relieved early but for the rest of the two months while he was in command, he would not speak or acknowledge my presence. The XO even warned me that things "might get uncomfortable" for the next few months for me!
We recently bought a generator. I also bought and installed a transfer switch. Beginning of each month I 'exercise' the 4wd (hi & low). I have also added hooking up and running the gen.
All great points, and you are right about not wanting the generator running with the main on if the power comes back on, but the main reason is for safety. If the Main is left on while the generator is running, it will back feed the power line supplying power, once it gets to the power company transformer that normally steps the voltage from 14,400 or 7,200 volts (depending the power company) to 120 which becomes 240 when paired at the main, the transformer will step the voltage back up. This would not travel a great distance because of low amp but would be harmful to power line workers that don't know the line is hot.
LOL. My wife made me write a manual with pictures of the entire process so she can deal with the emergency when I'm not around. The plan should include how to protect the generator from rain, snow, sleet while it's running. And guess what... There will be two feet of snow exactly at the spot I need to get my power cord into the house.
Thank you for this informative no-nonsense presentation. Based on your recommendation I decided to get the 25 ft generator cord. You are a straight-shooter and I like that.
Try lining up the plug with the inlet at night. Take some white-out an make a line on the plug & socket to line up the two before you twist it. Keep battery charged. Install emergency lights that come on when power goes out. Install them where you set up the generator and at the panel. Maintenance is easier when using natural gas to power the generator.
When I wired up my Generator plug, I did one extra thing that so far I haven't heard anyone mention. In the Breaker panel I installed Two L.E.Ds that accept 110V . So they show through small holes in the outer panel cover. One is wired to the Utility power side, and one is wired to the Generator in feed wire. So... When the Generator is on and it's power is available, that L.E.D is lit, and then too, when the Utility power is on, or Back on after a failure, that L.E.D. is lit, So I know the power has been restored, and I can stop using my Generator. Simple, and I know what power I have ready in my Panel, without even opening the door, or cycling the Generator off, and testing for Utility Power.
@jameslester4474 , that is a great idea that I have often wondered about. Thank you for explaining how this (knowing if power from the grid has been restored after an outage) can be accomplished with wiring LEDs to the street.
I have a (switched) industrial horn connected to the commercial side of the transfer switch. When commercial power returns, it's announced VERY loudly.
Just did all this myself to my house . The test run was critical, I discovered that my interlock plate was just a hair too big and wouldn't allow generator breaker to turn on .(just had to barely grind a side down) Glad I got that worked out while having grid power .
All excellent ideas. Dry run for sure! Helped a friend set up a generator and found out one of the circuits he thought was on the generator subpanel was not. So the second freezer in the garage was not protected.
@@abrelectric Nothing yet... There are other adjacent outlets in the garage that are on the generator subpanel. So he will either move the freezer about 20 feet to the desired outlets or use a good extension cord... This was all wired up 14 years ago when the house was built new. Just lacked the plug in for the generator on an exterior wall... It's in Texas so he was without power for a while like many through the big freeze in Feb 2021. That was the wake up call!... He'll likely wait another 14 years to actually hook up the generator and see if it works 😅
I have 2 transfer switches. I have a sub panel with loads like lights, fridge, freezer oil furnace and TV/ internet. I can run this on a Honda 2000 for over 10 hours on a gallon of gas. We have a 7000 k with a remote start on a whole house transfer switch when we need the pump and other high loads. It’s October and I just changed the oil and drained the old gas and put in fresh gas and ran them both with a load. These transfer switches are separate from the break box. Transfer switches like the one shown here aren’t allowed where I live and if you get caught your power will be shut off. They do not want two different energy sources in the same breaker box.
@@abrelectric I use this on my Honda 2000. Reliance Controls CSR202 Easy/Tran Transfer Switch The sub panel is only wired for 120 and has a 30amp breaker in the main panel. I don’t know the brand name of the whole house one off hand but it is 3 pole 225 amp break before make type. It’s manual and it’s pretty big. It’s got a big flat bar type handle with an interlock that only lets me open it when it is in the break position.
I recommend putting up some instructions at the panel for switching sequence and anything else. When you're under stress, you may not think straight. Also it helps for the quarterly practice runs what to do.
great job covering the generators - maintaining them - some planning with the cord!! I do exactly the same thing here as you talked about, but I go a bit further with it. 1 extra 50' 12/3 cord for that neighbor that might have a gas furnace & smart enough to listen to you when installing a male plug next to their furnace to operate it in the cold. I also have 12V bulb (2) that are plugged into that 12V charger side to recharge battery - use it for actually seeing what I am doing in the dark (Also a wiser way is a 12V led lamp instead) this way you can refill the gas tank without having to worry about starting a fire or explosion!! I also have a piece of board that can be laid over the top of the generator with a tarp stapled over the edges for rain/snow protection ) I put 4 snaps on the edges of the cover to keep it in place during winds. small bag for flashlight and any tools that might be needed during operation - including 120V splitter plugs...cord ends (Male with 14" long cord tails) other bag on the generator has oil - fuel additive - paper towels & WalMart bag for garbage - chain with lock & key as well to secure it.
1 run your generator at least quarterly 1 time a month preferred. 2 mark the outside of your cord and inlet box with a sharpie or colored duct tape so you can easily line up the connection in the dark. 3 stage a good headlighted flashlight somewhere to help you in total darkness get all connected correctly. 4 if your generator has a battery to start it put a battery tender on it to keep it charged and maintained. 5 get a tent, shed, some sort of protective covering homemade or bought to keep the elements off of your generator when it is outside. 6 keep an ample supply of fuel ready to go that will last you a day at least to give you time to get more fuel in a multiple day emergency. If you run gasoline try to run non ethanol only and rotate your supply into your vehicles when it gets old then replace with fresh gasoline. This is a great video and all my suggestions may have already been mentioned here.
Might have be said numerous times but this video would have been enhanced by the installation of an interlock device. Some panels will not accommodate this install but many will. It insures there will not be 2 sources on the same line. Chances of that might be slim as line workers will not restore power on lines with back feed so you delay getting your line power back. As well if power were to attempt to auto restore as is the case sometimes a head to head situation will be interesting and I think your gen set will lose. Not every body has a main breaker in their panels so an inlet would be problematic without some kind of transfer switching. Being an electrician myself I would remove the main lines insulate one and tie in a lite to the other side so I would know when power was back. Now I have a new panel with a main and an interlock device with inlet. Found a good electrician.
I worked many years in a telephone central office. We ran our generators monthly. I do my portable every other month, and long enough to get it nice and warm. 15-20 minutes should be good. Also, run your portable under load. A couple of hair dryers are great. Just watch your wattage.
I know you’re an electrician but I know a very good small engine mechanic who would say your maintenance is incomplete because an emergency household generator also needs a load test on a regular schedule. It doesn’t need to be a long test or a high load but the field in the generator needs to be excited quarterly or it can lose it’s ability to produce electricity.
I use my generator to run stuff when I don’t really need it. I switched service vans and hadn’t moved it over or started it in a couple of month. Had a lot of pulls to get it running. It’s now in my new van and I make sure to start it regularly after that no start reminder!
Wow -- thanks, I actually learned that I am not as hurricane prepped as I thought I was. Doing a pre-emergency run of the generator and figuring out what we engergize and what we shutoff in terms of house circuits is something I didn't even consider. Also, I need to build a shelter for the generator. Thanks for the heads-up.
I use a paint marker and paint alignment marks on my cable and generator at 12 ok position for easy alignment and on the gen inlet plug the same thing. I recently installed a panel manual interlock for the sake i don't ever forget weather or not i shut the main to the line side. I get in a hurry sometimes and find myself double checking. Now with the interlock, I don't have to second guess myself.
Like clock work, 1st of every month I do the maintenance start and run, I even go so far as put a load on the generator just to make sure it’s actually producing power. At least once a year I give the generator a tune up. And if I do need it for an extended period of time, I change the oil and filters. So it’s ready for the next time. I’ve also learned to run the carburetor dry an drain the gas tank to prevent damage do to water or gummy fuel.
Adding to point #1... place the hookup in a place that is good for the generator, not you necessarily. A generator is not meant to stand out in the rain/snow, so plan for a location ahead of time. An external storage shed with a door that can be left open is typically a good idea. Something that can cover the generator in that rain/snow, yet allow access and airflow to keep it cool. You may need to get an extra long cord. Never leave it running in an attached garage and especially one that is closed or even just partially closed. My hookup is in the garage, but I run a cord outside to a free-standing shed that I can run the generator in with its door open facing away from the prevailing wind. In Buffalo NY, everyone has them for winter "fun.".
Hey neighbor! Can I ask how much it cost to have the interlock installed? Also who did you use? I was just talking about this last night with the wife. After last years blizzard i want to be prepared.
@@SVW1976 Unfortunately, I can't. I was lucky... Mine came with the house when I bought it. The previous owner was a construction manager for Ferguson Electric and he did it.
Good info BUT more needed. Have new spark plugs, oil (and tools ) on shelf for generator BEFORE you need them, also air & gas filters have them ALREADY there. Are you going shopping when the electricity (during storm time at 2 am , in the dark ? ) is out ? How about extra large type STEP BY STEP instructions in a sheet protector BY the generator AND by the box. Make sure whole family can follow those instructions. You might be able to talk someone through it with the instructions there.
My electrician asked me where I wanted the inlet box. I asked him to run the conduit along the side of the house past the fence in the backyard where the generator will be secure. I like your advice on where to place the inlet box. I had mine installed at the height of a doorknob, 3 feet high, for the best ergonomics to plug in and twist the cord.
I wired my backup generator to charge my backup Solar batteries. At 3 bucks a gallon for gas a kilowatt hour of gen power cost 75 cents. If our power goes off , my spouse can press a button in our utility room and our power comes back on. Without starting the generator.
Great basic info! Makes the important distinction between *maintenance* and *repairs,* which more often than not result from lack of maintenance, and are most undesirable with emergency systems. I just had to run my generator, and intend to drain the gas tank, so I'll have fresh gas in it next time it's needed, especially since there are no sources of ethanol-free gas very nearby.
Got a generator inlet , interlock and generator. Works great! Been using it for years, runs most of the house except oven and dryer. The only issue that I had was during a really bad rainstorm ( 12 inches ) in a 10 hour period. The power wen5bout at night and my basement flooded before I was able to hook up generator. I solution for that is I just brought a UPS for my sump pump. Will allow me 6 hours to 2 1/2 days of power to sump pump. I should be able to get my generator up and running by then. The best solution would probably be a whole house generator on a gas line with a by pass panel. Maybe the next house.
Old school reason - nowadays lines where linemen work are shorted and grounded. Recently I forgot to turn Main off while starting my generator - generator’s breaker shut it off because of that short
Last power outage my genny wouldn't start as the carb was all varnished from old gas drying out. Sat that one out in the dark. Later found out a carb is $18 on Amazon so I now have plenty of new carbs on the shelf.
Great idea to run your generator periodically. But you should apply a load to it, preferably at least 50% of capacity. Depending on your generator, if you have a 240V you made need to buy a splitter that adapts the 30 amp twist lock (shown in the video) to two standard 120 plugs. My favorite loads to use are space heaters.
Thank you. I’m learning since I finally got a generator. Your video was helpful. Now I just need to figure out the best way to do this connection here in NC for my refridgerator, a standing frezzer in the garage and a few lights. We have a fireplace for heating and natural gas for cooking. Summer AC (we have windows…haha). So do I go with proper size extension cords (size??) or a hookup. My generator is a B&S P3000 (2600w) with 4-120 plugs and a 30amp 120 for trailers. Again, Thank you very much for your video!
@@abrelectric I was a "guest" of the 82nd at Fort Benning for three weeks during the summer of 1975. It was an introductory course for academy cadets (Air Force, in my case.) We got in five static-line jumps, enough for the parachutist's badge. I loved every minute, except for the sawdust pits.
With the last hurricane that was approaching the Gulf Coast, I decided to get ready around the house. I pulled out my champion 4500 W generator that’s been sitting in the garage for 4 1/2 years untouched. I turned on the gas tap turned on the ignition switch one pull and it fired right up. Why? I never use gas gasoline and small engines that has ethanol in it. I have stored gasoline for multiple years up to five with no problems.
Only thing is, which I just found out with Milton, non ethanol will not always be available! So once we burn through our 15, 25 or how ever many gas cans we have filled, we may have to run for a time on crappy gas! Once you finish, and my power was out four days, gas up with non ethanol, add your fuel stabilizer and hope and pray we never have to drag that breast out again! But I stick to this rule with my cars even, and they keep running and running! Best treatment for any gas engine period!
@@kvmalley The best thing you can do is close the fuel petcock while it's running and let it use up the gas left until it dies. Then look to see if there is drain plug on fuel bowl, if so, drain any remaining gas that was left in there. Fuel with Ethanol sitting in the fuel bowl will rot everything. As me how I know.
So I back feed 30 amps 240 volts with a interlock, recently I’m hearing a lot about floating neutral, that if your generator is primarily used as a backup for your house you have to switch your generator to floating neutral, that you can’t have 2 bonded neutrals at once, any truth to that? And if you decide to use your generator for another use you can buy a bonding plug for that usage, and just remove plug and go back to floating neutral.
Dry run with electrician there. I did the dry run once the elc left. The gen switch was installed off so the breaker would not move. Elc came back and I decided to file the switch vs drilling new holes next to old ones!
Excellent advice. Thank you for taking the time. Having run a couple of datacenters but only having a standby Champion at home I'd add a few comments: 1. Don't wait for your lead-acid battery to die. Cranking the pull wire to start a cold engine in the rain isn't worth it. Replace that battery with a LiFePo battery with a built-in battery management system (BMS). $200-$300 on AMZ and it will hold a charge for a long time, won't fry in the heat of summer, and doesn't degrade voltage as it runs down the charge. Good starts every time. 2. Put the battery on a battery tender. These things are in the $20 range, just ensure you get the right type for your battery. If you followed tip #1, that's Lithium. Lithim (ion) and LiFePo are not the same but the BMS will make them behave the same for charging purposes. 3. Quarterly tests are fine if you have a battery tender. If you don't, start with monthly tests to be sure the battery maintains enough power to start, then back it off to 45 days, then 60. 4. You're testing two things on an offload test: the ability to have the starter fire up the generator, and the generator running smoothly with a solid 60Hz 120VAC (115 is good) output. There are complicated measuring devices, but a CFL bulb is a cheap indicator. Look for any signs of flickerage. That flicker means the generator needs servicing. 5. Those yellow locking connector cables (NEMA L14 or L5) are HEAVY because they are designed to carry 30-50A and there are 4 conductors. So if you can lay the cable ahead of time, and already plug it into the house... then you just need to wheel the genset out to the other end of the cable, plug it in, and you're done. This not only solves the "where is my cable" problem, it also avoids the "tree in the way issue." (And if it's raining or snowing you're not reeling out cold stiff copper cable...) 6. Have a flashlight strapped or taped to the top of your generator. That way when you find the generator using your phone, you can put your phone away and use something with more light, more power, and if you drop it so what. 7. Interlock. I really hesitate to touch this because it's a flashpoint. Everyone has opinions. If you would rather not spend any money then don't bother with a generator and just keep some MREs and blankets in your car and go huddle up when the power is out. If you want true redundancy, don't do the interlock thing. For one reason you have to pick and choose which circuits to power, and after you budget the amperage needs of your HVAC system (heat pump, etc.) there won't be much to play with. Second, it's a crappy mechanical device designed to stop you from doing something stupid (backfeeding the grid with your generator). Third, it requires you to trudge out to the panel to move it... then again to move it back. Instead, go to eBay and pick up a used automatic transfer switch (ATS). They are easy to wire -- even for DIYers, although standard disclaimer applies ("if you're not 100% comfortable hire a licensed electrician...) and they work without manual intervention. Some have an extra set of control wires to remotely start the generator... but those don't work well with the mini standby gensets because there's nobody there to move the manual choke lever. You can put an auto choke on it (lots of RUclips videos on that topic) but that reduces the effectiveness of the system because those systems are not as good as your ear to determine when the genset is running well enough to introduce air into the f/a mixture. Anyway, $200-$600 on eBay gets you an ATS. You can oversize it and it won't matter... so you could get a 600A ATS and power your 100-200A house using your 30-50A genset with no issues. 8. If you really want to spend the money (but you don't... right... that's why I watched this video and you watched this video and I have a Champion, not a 20KW Cat. But if you did, you can get the ATS and wire it all up... and one day when you want to upgrade to a full-size genset it's one thing to swap in, and the old one can go on eBay and get you back 1/10th of what the "real genset" costs. 9. This has turned lengthy so one more thing. Maintenance. The OG guy is right. You have to maintain it like a car. Except unlike a car you don't use it every day. So when you do those quarterly offload tests... check fuel lines, check oil level, color, and sample for particulates. If your generator is water-cooled check fluid level and color. Ensure battery charge is up there. Test that flashlight from tip#6 and r/r the batteries as needed. Remember, a few batteries cost nearly nothing, but wandering around in the dark in the rain with your cellphone (light) getting rained on... not good. If your generator is the roll-around kind and has tubular tires (rare) check pressures and inflate as needed. 10. If you have a teenager in the house, print this list and hand it to them with a logbook so they can do this every quarter and log what they observe and notate any discrepancies that need correction along with a priority that goes from high ("won't start") to low ("lots of dust all over it and cat paw marks.") E Tucson, AZ US
I know what you mean about stiff (virtually unbendable). I bought 10 Ga. 4 wire Super Vutron . I bought enough so that I could make two runs from the Gen. to the inlet box and ran them in parallell so I could get a good safe 50 Amp setup. I had to make Hubbell richer buying the inlet, and two 50 amp marine grade connectors. But using and storing that Super Vutron was a dream compared to all other cables.
That was actually a very good video. thank you! I’m thinking about adding one of those interlocks, right now I use my 50 amp R.V breaker and plug my inverter in to it and back feed in to the house panel . FYI I do shut the main off before I plug in the inverter and starting it. I’ve always felt like it was safe but not really sure….. I want hold your opinion reliably but would love your thoughts on my setup.
My retired lineman neighbor just finished my hookup today! Next time I won’t have to run extension cords all over the house! Just need a lockout for the breaker and that’s done for now! Hoping and praying never to need to drag that beast out again! I had double duty running mine and my sisters!
Nice presentation. I would add that you should run your generator once a month to make sure it operates and perform a simulated power failure on your house once or twice a year. Your generator is known as a STABD-BY GENERATOR, not an emergency generator. Emergency generators are designated as hospital generators or other locations where life saving equipment is used.
If your home [health, from heat, humidity, supplemental oxygen, loss of food, etc] is going to suffer adverse consequences from lack of electricity, then, yeah ... your genset is and emergency one.
Dude from Europe here. Our grid is pretty stable. Last outage I experienced was pre-Covid. I am still gonna get a small inverter generator this year. Maintenance is super important, I couldn’t agree more. I am involved with the local VFD. We are absolutely religious about this. Our trucks have generators on board (Endress ESE607) that we use to run tools and provide lighting. We also can feed electricity to a building. Electrical checks are at least weekly, as are checks on fuel and oil. Each generator is run for at least 10 minutes. Fuel is topped up from jerry cans. There are two of those on a truck just for the generator. The one with the „oldest“ fuel is up front so it gets used first. So far, each generator has always started on the first try. A little fun fact: Our regulations for cabling say that we can only have continuous cable runs of 100 meters max to a consumer. If you have a 100 meter run to a junction box, you cannot have more than 10 meters from the junction box to the final consumer. Yes, the cabling theoretically supports way more. But there is a safety margin. And not every firefighter is also a certified electrician who can do the right calculations. Even if you are a licensed electrician, you still need to follow fire dept regulations. Because if there IS some sort of freak accident, even though it might not have been caused by or even related to some little rule bending: guess whose door officials will knock on first when they smell a safety violation. The cable drums are all IP67. Also, even when not used fully or to capacity, a cable drum must always be unrolled completely to avoid it heating up.
I love the steps and easy to understand things but I am having an issue about finding out the specs on a Generator Inlet box install: My Main box is on the side of the house toward the front and Looking to get the Inlet box installed in the back of the house behind the fence so that I can keep the generator or system ready to connect and now worried about anybody walking away with the units. Or should ai put the generator inlet box right next to the main box and run a longer cable into the back yard?
Thank you for this video. The Square D load center cover I have is dated (1986) and I've not found an appropriate interlock but believe the one shown in this video will work; however, I cannot see a brand nor a part number. Would appreciate it greatly if you could provide same. Again, thanks.
There’s a ton of comments here so forgive me if this has been answered. When running on generator power and the main breaker is open, what is best method for knowing when utility power has been restored and it is appropriate to switch back? Not everyone has street lights and plenty of neighbors to serve as indicators.
@@dguiley you don't. On one job, I have installed an indicator light (240v) to the main lugs, with the light mounted just above the panel. Once utility power came back, the lights came on.
I'm in the process of installing a 50amp 9500 watt unit. I had the interlock kit before the generator was even delivered. Question. I was thinking of just cutting the female end off my 50amp cord and wire directly into the 50amp breaker in the panel and leave the male end in a weather protected cover i can retract the cord into the basement to just pull out and plug in when needed. Basically just to avoid the need for an outlet on the side of the house.
Question for ya, I have a 12kw generator. I have a 400 amp service split into 2 200 amp panels. Can I run one 50 amp to one panel and one 30 amp to the other panel ?
Simple application: Assuming each panel has a main breaker, install an interlock switch with a 50 amp breaker.l in each panel. Both breakers feed to single generator inlet. Mind your phasing!
The last time I did a dry run, I couldn't get the interlock to slide over in order to switch the generator breaker on. It was frozen in place, it worked previously. I would say do a dry run periodically.
Good advice. I do all of the above. I only use non-ethanol gas in my generator. I add STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer in all my stored gasoline. Ethanol attracts moisture. Moisture is a small engine/carb enemy.
Non-ethanol gas is the only fuel I use for all my small engines, including my generator. Thanks for pointing that out for others. The last thing you want in a snow storm without power is to have to clean the carburetor to get the generator running because you used ethanol based fuel.
Another point, know how to open your electric garage door opener when there is no power, otherwise one cannot get their portable generator out of the garage to connect it to the house.
I noticed you didn’t discuss voltage loss over distance. I think that’s something to take into consideration when selecting a cord for your generator. You don’t want to be back feeding your house with a long cord resulting in too low of voltage to your appliances. Especially if the gauge wire in the cord is on the smaller side.
I was actually going to make this point, so I first checked and realized it shouldn't be an issue. Most people using a portable generator are going to use your typical 5.5KW - 12KW unit, paired to a 30amp (10 gauge) - 50amp (6 gauge) wire. A 10 gauge wire can run 128 feet without seeing more than a 3% voltage drop. And it's even better with a 6 gauge wire, as you can go 188 feet. I built a generator shed for my generator away from my house and made a 60 foot cord to plug it in and the voltage is perfectly fine and I've been using this cord for 15 years without issue.
I bought a small generator with two goals: 1) it can run the fridge and 2) it was easy to move. I went for a 2kW Chinese made generator and the cord cost more than the genset!
Bonding at the generator will trip the generator main breaker if it's a GFCI style breaker. Otherwise, for a home back-up application, bonding neutral to ground on the generator is unnecessary because the house main panel should have that bonding connection
So this might already be in the comments somewhere, but the manual for the pro trans say they need to be used with a floating neutral generator. My understanding is that most generators have the ground and the neutral bonded at the generator. Is this a problem?
When the main breaker on the generator is GFCI protected - yes. Several brands have a 2 pole 50 amp GFCI breaker for it's MB. Trips instantly unless that jumper is removed
I noticed a couple of statements made in the video that need clarification to avoid problems. 1. Get a longer cord than needed. While a little is good too much or if the generator can't be placed near the power inlet if a long cable is needed up size the cord to reduce voltage loss. 2. You are correct about the exhaust. A good quality generator is not objectionable loud. 3. The use of a generator to feed the whole panel could result in low voltage and generator over load. Have a plan for load sharing to not damage anything. 4. The statement about the interlock is not so much to avoid damage to the generator, but to keep the line workers and storm cleanup crews safe. Back feeding the power lines can result in serious injury or death.
Time 55 seconds "generator inlet" Consider mounting sideways, so cord runs smoothly along garage will without sticking out from wall (trip hazard) Would face down to keep weather out be a good idea??
The interlock is neat and all, but I'm way more concerned about backfeeding, so the linemen will be fine when I just shut off power in before the generator gets connected.
I live here in south east Alabama I go out once every month start up my generator with two coffee cups full of gas and let it run out of gas I change the oil once every year we had to use it for 9 hours this past Saturday
Hal what do you know about bonded vs floating neutral? I have a generac 17500 bonded. Have 400 amp via two 200 amp panels have two 50 amp interlocks propane conversion kit gen shed but the bonded vs floating confuses me for back feed. I also have the genset grounded with #10
Your main panel should be bonded so you need to make your generator floating neutral. By code you can only have 1 bonded neutral in a circuit and thats at your panel. I was confused also but from what i gathered is if there is a short somewhere when the power coming from neutral returns to the source it may not pick it up as the electricity can split and run parallel between both bonded neutrals and not trip a breaker. Having only 1 makes it a standard circuit so if something goes wrong you still jave the neutral/ground to return back to the source and trip a breaker in the even of a short or a live wire etc.. If youre running the generator as a stand alone say running power tools and not back feeding a panel where the neural is bonded then youre okay because in your stand alone you only have the generator connections in which bonded generator is the way to go. I'm not an electrician but this confused me also and ive spent the last week trying to figure out what the hell bonded vs floating was and when to use and not use it.
My 2mw generators at work are kept in the loading dock with the exaust pumped outside and a big loovers for fresh air intake and cooling. Is it possible to do something simmilar for residential generators?
What is the maximum length when installing inlet box to the circuit panel? Iam looking for a solution on how to minimize the length of a 50 amps generator cord cause the distance is about 75 ft from where I want to put the generator to the circuit box. Thank you.
@@rjakeyno9065 There isn't a maximum for the hardwired cabling to the inlet. You just need to upside the wire gauge (assuming your load is 80% of capacity), from #6 to #4.
I have a question, does the breaker for the transfer switch need to be located just under the main breaker? Or can it be installed anywhere on the panel? Thanks
Ethanol free fuel is very much worth the investment- keep it fresh! I've found that cleaning out the fuel bowl once a year is a valuable maintainace item. Most generators have a low oil shut-off. If the generator will not start with a couple of pulls, make sure the oil is full. Newer generators with the carbon monoxide detector seem to be problematic. Make sure yours works properly! I always figured that my 5 kw gen put out 2500 watts X 2 on the 220 circuit. Turns out that it only provides 3.5kw, as do most portable generators. It is enough for my needs...make sure it is enough for yours!
Another tip no one really thinks about is with the generac automatic generators that run off natural gas. Keep a check on your Battery’s. A friend of mine was on vacation and just assumed his would kick on if something happened. He got home they are out of power basement full of water because sump pump not powered and lost everything in the freezer and fridge. So once a month check your battery and have it changed at suggested intervals
I got my house wired up for my generator last night with a 30amp breaker. My house is all electric and I have a 9000 watt Predator with 7250 constant watt generator. We powered up all the rooms and left the water heater off, range off, and dryer off. We went to power up the heat and waited for it to cycle on. When the thermostat kicked on, the generator bogged down hard and never allowed the heater to come on. My heater has a 60 amp breaker. My house is 1800 soft. What can I do to get the heater to work? I live out in Texas too.
I located my generator inlet right below a silcock spigot and Inide my 18AWG 4ft cord in the toilet tank, we have crime issues. I do scheduled maintenance quarterly or once every twenty five years come hell or high water. Does a dry run mean to remove all oil, and do the test run? My two best friends are lineman and I leave my main on. There wives are real shrews and they are depressed and it would be doing them a favor. Thanks for the video.
Great video if I have a 30 amp, 9,000 peak watt generator and a 30 amp but 7500 watt receptacle, would that be a problem? given that the generator has more wattage than the inlet box ?
Here is a question for you. A 50amp plug on a generator can only provide 12Kw but I've seen some 20Kw portable generators with two 50amp plugs. How can both plugs be patched into the electrical panel? I was thinking that 2 inlet boxes with 2 50amp breakers would do it as long as the X and Y legs on both inlet boxes are connected to the correct buss. Your thoughts?
I always use non-ethanol, gas in my generator when possible. During hurricanes I have to use regular gas due to supply but after hurricane season, I change it back to non-ethanol. My Generac generator is 20 years old.
Sir, If I install a Reliance 6 or 10 circuit circuit panel in my basement, can I also connect that panel with 2 x 30 amp inlet boxes. The reason being, I want 1 inlet box for outside for my gas powered generators, and another inlet box in the basement next to the Reliance panel to run my LiFepo4 Battery smart generators, and those generators are not rated to be outside in the elements and no worry on exhaust because they produce no exhaust, thats what I meant by rated outside.
At the same time? You can do that if you synchronize and match phasing on the 2 inputs. Also, compare your THD on each output if you're combining inputs.
@davidbruce5377 Sorry, I meant the amperage of the generator? Or KW rating? You can use a double pole breaker and only wire to one pole. You'll need a double for the size to connect mechanically to the interlock switch.
"Be offended". I love your directness. No fillers here. Great VIDEO! THANK YOU!
You are very kind, thank you
It doesn't get better than that. Short & to the point. Great video!!
I have run the same portable generator for 22 years with only one carb failure. I use only non-ethanol fuel treated with Stabil. I keep 60 gallons on hand. After 6-8 months I use the fuel in my car and refill the containers. I average 1 minimal outage a month (< 2 hours) and 2 major outages a year (over 18 hours). I learned my lesson in 1999 during an ice storm without power for 4 days and have had a generator ever since. I interlock my main and back feed from a shop. Recently I added a soft start to my heat pump and can now run my cooling during an outage. I rely on kerosene heat in the winter since the HP draws too much power for the heat strips.
What brand of soft start did you use? TIA
@@KhoiNguyen-ic5pi I use a Micro-Air EasyStart. It is on my Goodman 2-ton. Had it almost 1 year and zero issues. Ran my heat pump once late last year and already twice this summer (about 1 hour then about 4 hours).
Soo true!
I’m a power lineman for a local utility. I can’t tell you how often we go out to a customer’s home for a service upgrade. The electrician is there on site & we co-ordinate with them to cut the power. The customer has a generator on the property. We get the ok & cut power & we are waiting to hear the generator start? Some of the time it doesn’t. Or if they have a roll out? They wheel it out & it won’t start. You would think they would do a dry run to be sure everything is working correctly? They don’t bother. Then there is a panic that sets in. The electrician usually has battery tools so he’s not affected. The homeowner has an important business meeting. Well they will miss that meeting.
Ha ha zombies knocking on your door... I finally got around to eliminating the cheater back feed cable. Put in monster(200 A) manual transfer switch. Also reduced connections by running the cable out through the basement wall. Direct plug in.
@@bobbean4702 I had an electrician wire up an inlet on the side of my house right next to where I was placed my roll out. He installed an inter lock in my CB panel. I bought a hard wire remote for my genny & the start/stop is right by CB panel as well. Now my wife is able to start our generator from inside the house anytime the power goes out. 1 push button & 3 switches & the power is restored. No more frantic calls from home while I’m at work. I just bought peace of mind. Well worth it!
Great video.
But I would add a point to the maintenance section: NEVER leave untreated ethanol fuel in your generator. (Or any other small engine you have) EVER!!
Ethanol is a small engine KILLER.
Even a small engine mechanic (like me) would take a couple hours to remove the carb, clean it, reinstall it, and get the generator running again after ethanol fuel has sat inside the carb for longer than 90 days.
If you filled up your generator with untreated ethanol gas "last year" just to be ready for a power outage, you will be screwed when you need it.
My tips:
*BEST: Use non-ethanol gas if you can. (Not every area even offers it.)
*2nd: Store generator with an engineered fuel, and keep treated ethanol fuel on hand. (Treated with fuel stabilizer).
But, every 90 days dump that treated ethanol into your vehicle, and get a fresh batch.
Sound complicated? Not half as complicated as having your generator not start in an emergency..........
This has NEVER been an issue for me. Why not? Every time I run my generator, I don't just hit the kill switch when I'm done. Instead, I cut off the fuel supply to the carb. Most generators have a switch or a dial to cut off the gas going to the carb. I (once the power comes back)
1. kill the gas going to my carb by turning the dial
2. walk and unplug the generator (I have a 60 foot long cord and the generator is plugged in far from its actual location) and start rolling it up for storage
By the time I finish rolling up the cord, the generator sputters to a stop, since it has no more gas. There will be NO GAS in the carb at this point. I've done this method for 15 years and never once had an issue starting my generator and we've lost power numerous times, twice for 5 days.
I will say this much, however: running your generator on gas, in general, is too much work, and I'd advise anyone to run it on propane instead. Get yourself a nice 500 gallon tank and have a plumber run a line to where you're going to run your generator. Otherwise, you'll be doing a lot of (especially for extended outages)
1. Going to the gas station
2. Carting smelly gas in your car (your car WILL smell like gas after)
3. Setting a periodic alarm to fill up the generator
Yeah, it sucks having $2K worth of propane just sitting there (especially if you don't use it for your stove, etc). But think of it as insurance. If you were in Buffalo a few weeks ago, it could have saved your life.
I do one better. I have a fuel injected generator. I only use treated fuel in my genny. My genny has a fuel pump. It even has an after market auxiliary fuel tank that can be connected to it. I have enough fuel in my generator to run at 1/2 load for 18 hours. After I come home from work it’s nearly empty. I hook up my already full auxiliary fuel tank & refill my main tank. That buys me 48 hours of run time at 1/2 load. Mine stays in a locked enclosure on a trickle charger. I periodically will start it & run without load, sometimes with load. I have had it for five years & it always starts on the first attempt. It’s peace of mind. I think of it as an insurance policy I hope I never need? But if I do? It’s always ready.
@@johnclyne6350 That’s great. 👍🏻
@@paulmysliborski4832 I have an interlock for my generator. Your right. The interlock protects not only lineman but the general public at large.
As soon as we exit our trucks in an area without power we have a tailboard to discuss the dangers & ofcourse the issue of “backfeed”.
In all my years of doing what I do I can only think of two times where a generator was hooked up illegally through a “killer cord”. One was a state police officers house. We pulled his meter for his house. The second we placed a ground on our primary because the homeowner was hostile. That ground tripped his main on his generator. We cut off his service & called the building building dept. They came out & pulled his certificate of occupancy. They padlocked his door after everyone was out.
We got everyone else on but him.
I actually ordered a spare carburetor for my predator generator a couple days after I bought generator! Cost was less than $30! Well worth the money just in case!
The interlock's critical role is NOT to protect your generator (although it does) it is to ensure that your generator is not back feeding on the grid while linemen are working through the snowmageddon/zombie apocalypse to get the power back on to your grid.
Especially so, given that the linesmen will usually be working on the other side of a transformer. Your little 240 V gennie can deliver ten times or higher voltage thanks to the magic of transformer action.
That’s why you need a transfer box , one switch changes from line to generator power. No back feeding with power line.
Yikes
@originaLkomatoast Fine, tell that to the linesmen. I'm sure they'll agree that brief jolt is nooo problem. They like a little excitement. 😜
Reeeeealy! Any lineman who doesn't concider all lines live isn't gonna last long. Rule #1 all lines are live. Suicide cords all day. Dont touch bare wires you could die, don't put a gun to your head and pull the trigger, you could die. It's a shame you have to save people from themselves, common sense just isn't commen anymore
I run my portable generators with a load for 30 minutes every month during our emergency siren checks on the first Saturday of every month. I also run the whole house on a generator for 30 minutes twice a year during each time change (you have to reset you clocks anyway).
That is a great practice. Thank you
So smart and clever!
Love the pix over your shoulder. Wish we had more John Waynes in our world today.
I agree
I wish we had less.
Real John Wayne, not a clown looking John Wayne.
Late to the party, great advice. Couple of things I want to mention. When I installed our generator built a generator shed so we could store it and protect it from weather when it was running. It is an electric start generator so purchased a battery maintainer and wired a door interlock switch to a 12V LED light. That way as soon as I open the door the light comes on so you are not working in the dark.
Not really a hack but a topic you didn't mention assuming your generator runs on gas figure out worst case usage and keep enough stabilized gas on hand. Here in NH winter snow/ice storms can result in week long outage. I maintain five 5-gallon gas cans with stabilizer. Using the genie a few hours in the morning and evening the gas should last for a week. One can is used for yard machines. The cans are numbers and rotated in order. If gas gets too old I dump it into one of our cars. Since the cans are sealed I have not had a problem with gas a year old. I keep a log book and update it each time I run the genie and track gas purchase. Probably overkill but as you posted you want to make sure your emergency generator will actually work during a power outage.
Test the generator every 3-months or so for half hour or so. I use a 1500 W space heater as a dummy load. I run the tank out of gas and then switch the fuel shutoff to off. There is always some gas in the tank and you don't want it sitting/evaporating in the carb fuel bowl.
Great advice! I let mine sit too long between testing and had to take it apart and clean the carburetor.
Just convert to propane@@abrelectric
If you can, find a gas station in your area that sells non-ethanol gas and keep a couple of 5 gal containers treated with a gas stabilizer on hand. Ethanol gas will eat up your carb in no time.
Love this! Some great advice/tips from you AND your audience! Upgrading from 100 to 200 A and installing interlock in April after the worst flooding in our area since I moved here in 2019. My sump was pumping out about every minute for well over a day and continuing less frequently for the next three. Glad it held up. That's also being checked over in April. Taking all necessary precautions against basement flooding and power outages is my top priority now with the weather becoming so unpredictable. Thanks for this video.
I do small engine repair. Number ONE issue; bad gas. People stick that generator in a corner, pull it out 2 years later, when needed, and wonder why it won't start.
That’s is true, a lot of people think(I also did) that fuel is good forever, but it can only be stored for so long(a few months) before it goes bad.
Go with propane. Stays good for years.
GREAT VIDEO. He is absolutely correct....Corrective and Preventative maintenance. He stated quarterly, I go for monthly.....AT LEAST 1 Hour UNDER LOAD. That load can be anything....a couple of coffee pots, an air fryer, a toaster or two. You would be surprised how much wattage a toaster takes! You do not have to plug it into the house to run it under load. Also, if you use gasoline, be sure when you are ready to shut the generator down, you turn the fuel value off in order to allow the system to use all the fuel out of the lines, etc. Also OIL CHANGES every year or every 100 Hours.
Quick tale: I was an "Auxiliaries officer" aboard a Cruiser. I had the emergency generator, hot water, steam, and Heating/AC equipment. I begged and pleaded for the captain to let us test under load the generator. Always got a "no" answer. I wrote memos, went to the cabin, had the CHENG ( Chief Engineer ) bring it up, all to no avail. One day out at sea we had the Admiral onboard when the ship's boilers dropped the load. I was on the bridge as the CO and Flag waited for the Emergency generator to kick in....which did not occur for about 10 minutes. Both officers were pissed and in the chewing out process, I brought up the point that I was not allowed to run or test the generator. The CO was quite forceful in his rebuttal....til i produced memos with his red "DENIED" scribble and signature. After that, I was allowed to run the EMERGENCY Generator whenever I need to. He was relieved early but for the rest of the two months while he was in command, he would not speak or acknowledge my presence. The XO even warned me that things "might get uncomfortable" for the next few months for me!
We recently bought a generator. I also bought and installed a transfer switch.
Beginning of each month I 'exercise' the 4wd (hi & low). I have also added hooking up and running the gen.
All great points, and you are right about not wanting the generator running with the main on if the power comes back on, but the main reason is for safety. If the Main is left on while the generator is running, it will back feed the power line supplying power, once it gets to the power company transformer that normally steps the voltage from 14,400 or 7,200 volts (depending the power company) to 120 which becomes 240 when paired at the main, the transformer will step the voltage back up. This would not travel a great distance because of low amp but would be harmful to power line workers that don't know the line is hot.
I wonder how a portable generator would fair trying to energize a Xformer on the pole?
@@hottractor1999 Enough to harm a lineman that is trying to get your power back on.
If it back fed, I wonder how long it would take for the breaker on the generator to trip once the houses next door powered up?
LOL. My wife made me write a manual with pictures of the entire process so she can deal with the emergency when I'm not around. The plan should include how to protect the generator from rain, snow, sleet while it's running. And guess what... There will be two feet of snow exactly at the spot I need to get my power cord into the house.
Ain't that the way...
Thats a smart wife...
Thank you for this informative no-nonsense presentation. Based on your recommendation I decided to get the 25 ft generator cord. You are a straight-shooter and I like that.
Your approach is refreshing and smart.
Try lining up the plug with the inlet at night. Take some white-out an make a line on the plug & socket to line up the two before you twist it. Keep battery charged. Install emergency lights that come on when power goes out. Install them where you set up the generator and at the panel. Maintenance is easier when using natural gas to power the generator.
Super useful tips - thank you!
Jesus didn't have any thing to do with this subject.😅@AlexJonesWasRight1776
When I wired up my Generator plug, I did one extra thing that so far I haven't heard anyone mention. In the Breaker panel I installed Two L.E.Ds that accept 110V . So they show through small holes in the outer panel cover. One is wired to the Utility power side, and one is wired to the Generator in feed wire. So... When the Generator is on and it's power is available, that L.E.D is lit, and then too, when the Utility power is on, or Back on after a failure, that L.E.D. is lit, So I know the power has been restored, and I can stop using my Generator.
Simple, and I know what power I have ready in my Panel, without even opening the door, or cycling the Generator off, and testing for Utility Power.
That is a great idea, and several clients have asked about that very thing! Thanks
@jameslester4474 , that is a great idea that I have often wondered about. Thank you for explaining how this (knowing if power from the grid has been restored after an outage) can be accomplished with wiring LEDs to the street.
Smart meters are very common and have lights on them when line power is available. Not easy to see from a distance.
I have a (switched) industrial horn connected to the commercial side of the transfer switch. When commercial power returns, it's announced VERY loudly.
Good tips. I like the John Wayne poster from The Green Berets and the 82nd Airborne poster.
Yes, John Wayne was real war hero.
Dont be cheap, be offended is a great line.
I got the longest cord I could. I don’t want to listen to any generator.
You get the longest you can the distance can causes heat when it's to long shorter the better if you go longer you need to step it up a gauge.
Just did all this myself to my house . The test run was critical, I discovered that my interlock plate was just a hair too big and wouldn't allow generator breaker to turn on .(just had to barely grind a side down) Glad I got that worked out while having grid power .
Very good points. I run my generator for 30 minutes on the first of the month every month. Thanks!
All excellent ideas.
Dry run for sure! Helped a friend set up a generator and found out one of the circuits he thought was on the generator subpanel was not. So the second freezer in the garage was not protected.
What did he do?
@@abrelectric Nothing yet... There are other adjacent outlets in the garage that are on the generator subpanel. So he will either move the freezer about 20 feet to the desired outlets or use a good extension cord... This was all wired up 14 years ago when the house was built new. Just lacked the plug in for the generator on an exterior wall... It's in Texas so he was without power for a while like many through the big freeze in Feb 2021. That was the wake up call!... He'll likely wait another 14 years to actually hook up the generator and see if it works 😅
I have 2 transfer switches. I have a sub panel with loads like lights, fridge, freezer oil furnace and TV/ internet. I can run this on a Honda 2000 for over 10 hours on a gallon of gas. We have a 7000 k with a remote start on a whole house transfer switch when we need the pump and other high loads. It’s October and I just changed the oil and drained the old gas and put in fresh gas and ran them both with a load. These transfer switches are separate from the break box. Transfer switches like the one shown here aren’t allowed where I live and if you get caught your power will be shut off. They do not want two different energy sources in the same breaker box.
@@Chris_at_Home what kind of transfer switches are you using?
@@abrelectric I use this on my Honda 2000.
Reliance Controls CSR202 Easy/Tran Transfer Switch
The sub panel is only wired for 120 and has a 30amp breaker in the main panel.
I don’t know the brand name of the whole house one off hand but it is 3 pole 225 amp break before make type. It’s manual and it’s pretty big. It’s got a big flat bar type handle with an interlock that only lets me open it when it is in the break position.
Do you have any thoughts about unbonding the generator for home emergency power. Thank you for the video.
I recommend putting up some instructions at the panel for switching sequence and anything else. When you're under stress, you may not think straight. Also it helps for the quarterly practice runs what to do.
great job covering the generators - maintaining them - some planning with the cord!! I do exactly the same thing here as you talked about, but I go a bit further with it. 1 extra 50' 12/3 cord for that neighbor that might have a gas furnace & smart enough to listen to you when installing a male plug next to their furnace to operate it in the cold. I also have 12V bulb (2) that are plugged into that 12V charger side to recharge battery - use it for actually seeing what I am doing in the dark (Also a wiser way is a 12V led lamp instead) this way you can refill the gas tank without having to worry about starting a fire or explosion!! I also have a piece of board that can be laid over the top of the generator with a tarp stapled over the edges for rain/snow protection ) I put 4 snaps on the edges of the cover to keep it in place during winds. small bag for flashlight and any tools that might be needed during operation - including 120V splitter plugs...cord ends (Male with 14" long cord tails) other bag on the generator has oil - fuel additive - paper towels & WalMart bag for garbage - chain with lock & key as well to secure it.
1 run your generator at least quarterly 1 time a month preferred. 2 mark the outside of your cord and inlet box with a sharpie or colored duct tape so you can easily line up the connection in the dark. 3 stage a good headlighted flashlight somewhere to help you in total darkness get all connected correctly. 4 if your generator has a battery to start it put a battery tender on it to keep it charged and maintained. 5 get a tent, shed, some sort of protective covering homemade or bought to keep the elements off of your generator when it is outside. 6 keep an ample supply of fuel ready to go that will last you a day at least to give you time to get more fuel in a multiple day emergency. If you run gasoline try to run non ethanol only and rotate your supply into your vehicles when it gets old then replace with fresh gasoline. This is a great video and all my suggestions may have already been mentioned here.
Good stuff, thank you!
Might have be said numerous times but this video would have been enhanced by the installation of an interlock device. Some panels will not accommodate this install but many will. It insures there will not be 2 sources on the same line. Chances of that might be slim as line workers will not restore power on lines with back feed so you delay getting your line power back. As well if power were to attempt to auto restore as is the case sometimes a head to head situation will be interesting and I think your gen set will lose. Not every body has a main breaker in their panels so an inlet would be problematic without some kind of transfer switching. Being an electrician myself I would remove the main lines insulate one and tie in a lite to the other side so I would know when power was back. Now I have a new panel with a main and an interlock device with inlet. Found a good electrician.
I worked many years in a telephone central office. We ran our generators monthly. I do my portable every other month, and long enough to get it nice and warm. 15-20 minutes should be good. Also, run your portable under load. A couple of hair dryers are great. Just watch your wattage.
I know you’re an electrician but I know a very good small engine mechanic who would say your maintenance is incomplete because an emergency household generator also needs a load test on a regular schedule. It doesn’t need to be a long test or a high load but the field in the generator needs to be excited quarterly or it can lose it’s ability to produce electricity.
I did not know that! That is a great point
I use my generator to run stuff when I don’t really need it. I switched service vans and hadn’t moved it over or started it in a couple of month. Had a lot of pulls to get it running. It’s now in my new van and I make sure to start it regularly after that no start reminder!
Wow -- thanks, I actually learned that I am not as hurricane prepped as I thought I was. Doing a pre-emergency run of the generator and figuring out what we engergize and what we shutoff in terms of house circuits is something I didn't even consider. Also, I need to build a shelter for the generator. Thanks for the heads-up.
Excellent words of wisdom !
I use a paint marker and paint alignment marks on my cable and generator at 12 ok position for easy alignment and on the gen inlet plug the same thing. I recently installed a panel manual interlock for the sake i don't ever forget weather or not i shut the main to the line side. I get in a hurry sometimes and find myself double checking. Now with the interlock, I don't have to second guess myself.
That is a super fantastic practical idea. Thank you
Like clock work, 1st of every month I do the maintenance start and run, I even go so far as put a load on the generator just to make sure it’s actually producing power. At least once a year I give the generator a tune up. And if I do need it for an extended period of time, I change the oil and filters. So it’s ready for the next time. I’ve also learned to run the carburetor dry an drain the gas tank to prevent damage do to water or gummy fuel.
Adding to point #1... place the hookup in a place that is good for the generator, not you necessarily. A generator is not meant to stand out in the rain/snow, so plan for a location ahead of time. An external storage shed with a door that can be left open is typically a good idea. Something that can cover the generator in that rain/snow, yet allow access and airflow to keep it cool. You may need to get an extra long cord.
Never leave it running in an attached garage and especially one that is closed or even just partially closed.
My hookup is in the garage, but I run a cord outside to a free-standing shed that I can run the generator in with its door open facing away from the prevailing wind. In Buffalo NY, everyone has them for winter "fun.".
Hey neighbor! Can I ask how much it cost to have the interlock installed? Also who did you use? I was just talking about this last night with the wife. After last years blizzard i want to be prepared.
@@SVW1976 Unfortunately, I can't. I was lucky... Mine came with the house when I bought it. The previous owner was a construction manager for Ferguson Electric and he did it.
Good info BUT more needed.
Have new spark plugs, oil (and tools ) on shelf for generator BEFORE you need them, also air & gas filters have them ALREADY there. Are you going shopping when the electricity (during storm time at 2 am , in the dark ? ) is out ? How about extra large type STEP BY STEP instructions in a sheet protector BY the generator AND by the box. Make sure whole family can follow those instructions. You might be able to talk someone through it with the instructions there.
My electrician asked me where I wanted the inlet box. I asked him to run the conduit along the side of the house past the fence in the backyard where the generator will be secure. I like your advice on where to place the inlet box. I had mine installed at the height of a doorknob, 3 feet high, for the best ergonomics to plug in and twist the cord.
That's a great height.
Inlet box location is driven by: close to the panel longer cord or farther away, and more electrician cost
I wired my backup generator to charge my backup Solar batteries. At 3 bucks a gallon for gas a kilowatt hour of gen power cost 75 cents. If our power goes off , my spouse can press a button in our utility room and our power comes back on. Without starting the generator.
Great basic info! Makes the important distinction between *maintenance* and *repairs,* which more often than not result from lack of maintenance, and are most undesirable with emergency systems. I just had to run my generator, and intend to drain the gas tank, so I'll have fresh gas in it next time it's needed, especially since there are no sources of ethanol-free gas very nearby.
Got a generator inlet , interlock and generator. Works great! Been using it for years, runs most of the house except oven and dryer. The only issue that I had was during a really bad rainstorm ( 12 inches ) in a 10 hour period. The power wen5bout at night and my basement flooded before I was able to hook up generator.
I solution for that is I just brought a UPS for my sump pump. Will allow me 6 hours to 2 1/2 days of power to sump pump. I should be able to get my generator up and running by then.
The best solution would probably be a whole house generator on a gas line with a by pass panel. Maybe the next house.
The MAIN reason for the interlock is to protect line workers trying to fix the power issue, so ones generator does not zap them.
Old school reason - nowadays lines where linemen work are shorted and grounded. Recently I forgot to turn Main off while starting my generator - generator’s breaker shut it off because of that short
Seems likes it is against the code in Canada. I read I must use a transfer switch.
Last power outage my genny wouldn't start as the carb was all varnished from old gas drying out. Sat that one out in the dark. Later found out a carb is $18 on Amazon so I now have plenty of new carbs on the shelf.
Great idea to run your generator periodically. But you should apply a load to it, preferably at least 50% of capacity. Depending on your generator, if you have a 240V you made need to buy a splitter that adapts the 30 amp twist lock (shown in the video) to two standard 120 plugs. My favorite loads to use are space heaters.
Thank you. I’m learning since I finally got a generator. Your video was helpful. Now I just need to figure out the best way to do this connection here in NC for my refridgerator, a standing frezzer in the garage and a few lights. We have a fireplace for heating and natural gas for cooking. Summer AC (we have windows…haha). So do I go with proper size extension cords (size??) or a hookup. My generator is a B&S P3000 (2600w) with 4-120 plugs and a 30amp 120 for trailers. Again, Thank you very much for your video!
Airborne! Love the 82nd picture in the back ground
@@la9482 AATW 1988 to 1992. You?
@@abrelectric I was a "guest" of the 82nd at Fort Benning for three weeks during the summer of 1975. It was an introductory course for academy cadets (Air Force, in my case.) We got in five static-line jumps, enough for the parachutist's badge. I loved every minute, except for the sawdust pits.
@@ttiwkram great memories
@@abrelectric AATW!
With the last hurricane that was approaching the Gulf Coast, I decided to get ready around the house. I pulled out my champion 4500 W generator that’s been sitting in the garage for 4 1/2 years untouched. I turned on the gas tap turned on the ignition switch one pull and it fired right up. Why? I never use gas gasoline and small engines that has ethanol in it. I have stored gasoline for multiple years up to five with no problems.
@@TexasScout that is amazing
You proved my decision on that
Only thing is, which I just found out with Milton, non ethanol will not always be available! So once we burn through our 15, 25 or how ever many gas cans we have filled, we may have to run for a time on crappy gas! Once you finish, and my power was out four days, gas up with non ethanol, add your fuel stabilizer and hope and pray we never have to drag that breast out again! But I stick to this rule with my cars even, and they keep running and running! Best treatment for any gas engine period!
@@kvmalley The best thing you can do is close the fuel petcock while it's running and let it use up the gas left until it dies. Then look to see if there is drain plug on fuel bowl, if so, drain any remaining gas that was left in there. Fuel with Ethanol sitting in the fuel bowl will rot everything. As me how I know.
So I back feed 30 amps 240 volts with a interlock, recently I’m hearing a lot about floating neutral, that if your generator is primarily used as a backup for your house you have to switch your generator to floating neutral, that you can’t have 2 bonded neutrals at once, any truth to that? And if you decide to use your generator for another use you can buy a bonding plug for that usage, and just remove plug and go back to floating neutral.
Dry run with electrician there. I did the dry run once the elc left. The gen switch was installed off so the breaker would not move. Elc came back and I decided to file the switch vs drilling new holes next to old ones!
Excellent advice. Thank you for taking the time. Having run a couple of datacenters but only having a standby Champion at home I'd add a few comments:
1. Don't wait for your lead-acid battery to die. Cranking the pull wire to start a cold engine in the rain isn't worth it. Replace that battery with a LiFePo battery with a built-in battery management system (BMS). $200-$300 on AMZ and it will hold a charge for a long time, won't fry in the heat of summer, and doesn't degrade voltage as it runs down the charge. Good starts every time.
2. Put the battery on a battery tender. These things are in the $20 range, just ensure you get the right type for your battery. If you followed tip #1, that's Lithium. Lithim (ion) and LiFePo are not the same but the BMS will make them behave the same for charging purposes.
3. Quarterly tests are fine if you have a battery tender. If you don't, start with monthly tests to be sure the battery maintains enough power to start, then back it off to 45 days, then 60.
4. You're testing two things on an offload test: the ability to have the starter fire up the generator, and the generator running smoothly with a solid 60Hz 120VAC (115 is good) output. There are complicated measuring devices, but a CFL bulb is a cheap indicator. Look for any signs of flickerage. That flicker means the generator needs servicing.
5. Those yellow locking connector cables (NEMA L14 or L5) are HEAVY because they are designed to carry 30-50A and there are 4 conductors. So if you can lay the cable ahead of time, and already plug it into the house... then you just need to wheel the genset out to the other end of the cable, plug it in, and you're done. This not only solves the "where is my cable" problem, it also avoids the "tree in the way issue." (And if it's raining or snowing you're not reeling out cold stiff copper cable...)
6. Have a flashlight strapped or taped to the top of your generator. That way when you find the generator using your phone, you can put your phone away and use something with more light, more power, and if you drop it so what.
7. Interlock. I really hesitate to touch this because it's a flashpoint. Everyone has opinions. If you would rather not spend any money then don't bother with a generator and just keep some MREs and blankets in your car and go huddle up when the power is out. If you want true redundancy, don't do the interlock thing. For one reason you have to pick and choose which circuits to power, and after you budget the amperage needs of your HVAC system (heat pump, etc.) there won't be much to play with. Second, it's a crappy mechanical device designed to stop you from doing something stupid (backfeeding the grid with your generator). Third, it requires you to trudge out to the panel to move it... then again to move it back. Instead, go to eBay and pick up a used automatic transfer switch (ATS). They are easy to wire -- even for DIYers, although standard disclaimer applies ("if you're not 100% comfortable hire a licensed electrician...) and they work without manual intervention. Some have an extra set of control wires to remotely start the generator... but those don't work well with the mini standby gensets because there's nobody there to move the manual choke lever. You can put an auto choke on it (lots of RUclips videos on that topic) but that reduces the effectiveness of the system because those systems are not as good as your ear to determine when the genset is running well enough to introduce air into the f/a mixture.
Anyway, $200-$600 on eBay gets you an ATS. You can oversize it and it won't matter... so you could get a 600A ATS and power your 100-200A house using your 30-50A genset with no issues.
8. If you really want to spend the money (but you don't... right... that's why I watched this video and you watched this video and I have a Champion, not a 20KW Cat. But if you did, you can get the ATS and wire it all up... and one day when you want to upgrade to a full-size genset it's one thing to swap in, and the old one can go on eBay and get you back 1/10th of what the "real genset" costs.
9. This has turned lengthy so one more thing. Maintenance. The OG guy is right. You have to maintain it like a car. Except unlike a car you don't use it every day. So when you do those quarterly offload tests... check fuel lines, check oil level, color, and sample for particulates. If your generator is water-cooled check fluid level and color. Ensure battery charge is up there. Test that flashlight from tip#6 and r/r the batteries as needed. Remember, a few batteries cost nearly nothing, but wandering around in the dark in the rain with your cellphone (light) getting rained on... not good. If your generator is the roll-around kind and has tubular tires (rare) check pressures and inflate as needed.
10. If you have a teenager in the house, print this list and hand it to them with a logbook so they can do this every quarter and log what they observe and notate any discrepancies that need correction along with a priority that goes from high ("won't start") to low ("lots of dust all over it and cat paw marks.")
E
Tucson, AZ US
I know what you mean about stiff (virtually unbendable). I bought 10 Ga. 4 wire Super Vutron . I bought enough so that I could make two runs from the Gen. to the inlet box and ran them in parallell so I could get a good safe 50 Amp setup. I had to make Hubbell richer buying the inlet, and two 50 amp marine grade connectors. But using and storing that Super Vutron was a dream compared to all other cables.
That was actually a very good video. thank you! I’m thinking about adding one of those interlocks, right now I use my 50 amp R.V breaker and plug my inverter in to it and back feed in to the house panel . FYI I do shut the main off before I plug in the inverter and starting it. I’ve always felt like it was safe but not really sure….. I want hold your opinion reliably but would love your thoughts on my setup.
How long of a cord can you have and second part to the first question is can you daisy chain two cords together to make it longer? Thanks!
All good points, always better to be prepared than be caught off guard.
My retired lineman neighbor just finished my hookup today! Next time I won’t have to run extension cords all over the house! Just need a lockout for the breaker and that’s done for now! Hoping and praying never to need to drag that beast out again! I had double duty running mine and my sisters!
Nice presentation. I would add that you should run your generator once a month to make sure it operates and perform a simulated power failure on your house once or twice a year. Your generator is known as a STABD-BY GENERATOR, not an emergency generator. Emergency generators are designated as hospital generators or other locations where life saving equipment is used.
If your home [health, from heat, humidity, supplemental oxygen, loss of food, etc] is going to suffer adverse consequences from lack of electricity, then, yeah ... your genset is and emergency one.
Picky picky…..I think we all understand the deal here
attaching the generator power cord to the generator is a genius idea!
Dude from Europe here. Our grid is pretty stable. Last outage I experienced was pre-Covid.
I am still gonna get a small inverter generator this year.
Maintenance is super important, I couldn’t agree more. I am involved with the local VFD. We are absolutely religious about this. Our trucks have generators on board (Endress ESE607) that we use to run tools and provide lighting. We also can feed electricity to a building.
Electrical checks are at least weekly, as are checks on fuel and oil. Each generator is run for at least 10 minutes. Fuel is topped up from jerry cans. There are two of those on a truck just for the generator. The one with the „oldest“ fuel is up front so it gets used first. So far, each generator has always started on the first try.
A little fun fact: Our regulations for cabling say that we can only have continuous cable runs of 100 meters max to a consumer. If you have a 100 meter run to a junction box, you cannot have more than 10 meters from the junction box to the final consumer. Yes, the cabling theoretically supports way more.
But there is a safety margin. And not every firefighter is also a certified electrician who can do the right calculations.
Even if you are a licensed electrician, you still need to follow fire dept regulations. Because if there IS some sort of freak accident, even though it might not have been caused by or even related to some little rule bending: guess whose door officials will knock on first when they smell a safety violation.
The cable drums are all IP67. Also, even when not used fully or to capacity, a cable drum must always be unrolled completely to avoid it heating up.
I love the steps and easy to understand things but I am having an issue about finding out the specs on a Generator Inlet box install: My Main box is on the side of the house toward the front and Looking to get the Inlet box installed in the back of the house behind the fence so that I can keep the generator or system ready to connect and now worried about anybody walking away with the units. Or should ai put the generator inlet box right next to the main box and run a longer cable into the back yard?
Thank you for this video. The Square D load center cover I have is dated (1986) and I've not found an appropriate interlock but believe the one shown in this video will work; however, I cannot see a brand nor a part number. Would appreciate it greatly if you could provide same. Again, thanks.
On the cords. A good place to find them is usually an RV center.
There’s a ton of comments here so forgive me if this has been answered. When running on generator power and the main breaker is open, what is best method for knowing when utility power has been restored and it is appropriate to switch back? Not everyone has street lights and plenty of neighbors to serve as indicators.
@@dguiley you don't. On one job, I have installed an indicator light (240v) to the main lugs, with the light mounted just above the panel. Once utility power came back, the lights came on.
@@abrelectric thanks. That’s what I was thinking, but my concern is was that it would be before the breaker, and so not protected.
@dguiley you can install an inline fuse (2 amp?) On each leg; that could also give you a disconnecting means inside the panel
OR! Install a type 1 surge protector with indicator light! That would kill a couple of birds with one stone
@dguiley please see the last answer, and a YT short based on your brilliant question
Outstanding video….what do you usually charge for a simple power inlet install?
Ps how do you keep gas fresh? Is using stabilizer sufficient?
I'm in the process of installing a 50amp 9500 watt unit. I had the interlock kit before the generator was even delivered. Question. I was thinking of just cutting the female end off my 50amp cord and wire directly into the 50amp breaker in the panel and leave the male end in a weather protected cover i can retract the cord into the basement to just pull out and plug in when needed. Basically just to avoid the need for an outlet on the side of the house.
Really great tips and advice. Thank you
Question for ya, I have a 12kw generator. I have a 400 amp service split into 2 200 amp panels. Can I run one 50 amp to one panel and one 30 amp to the other panel ?
Simple application: Assuming each panel has a main breaker, install an interlock switch with a 50 amp breaker.l in each panel. Both breakers feed to single generator inlet.
Mind your phasing!
The last time I did a dry run, I couldn't get the interlock to slide over in order to switch the generator breaker on. It was frozen in place, it worked previously. I would say do a dry run periodically.
That sounds unusual. I'd make sure it is installed correctly, or uninstall then re-install it.
Good advice. I do all of the above. I only use non-ethanol gas in my generator. I add STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer in all my stored gasoline. Ethanol attracts moisture. Moisture is a small engine/carb enemy.
Non-ethanol gas is the only fuel I use for all my small engines, including my generator. Thanks for pointing that out for others. The last thing you want in a snow storm without power is to have to clean the carburetor to get the generator running because you used ethanol based fuel.
The problem I have is that companies won't tell me what the ethanol content is. I wrote Shell and they told me to get in touch with their Tech dept.
@@sonnybowmanget a graduated cylinder and do the water test.
Another point, know how to open your electric garage door opener when there is no power, otherwise one cannot get their portable generator out of the garage to connect it to the house.
Never occurred to me that this would happen@AlexJonesWasRight1776
@AlexJonesWasRight1776 Some garages have ONLY the one main door.
I noticed you didn’t discuss voltage loss over distance. I think that’s something to take into consideration when selecting a cord for your generator. You don’t want to be back feeding your house with a long cord resulting in too low of voltage to your appliances. Especially if the gauge wire in the cord is on the smaller side.
That's a great point. There are several online calculators that will facilitate that. My benchmark would be 5% or less on voltage drop.
I was actually going to make this point, so I first checked and realized it shouldn't be an issue. Most people using a portable generator are going to use your typical 5.5KW - 12KW unit, paired to a 30amp (10 gauge) - 50amp (6 gauge) wire. A 10 gauge wire can run 128 feet without seeing more than a 3% voltage drop. And it's even better with a 6 gauge wire, as you can go 188 feet.
I built a generator shed for my generator away from my house and made a 60 foot cord to plug it in and the voltage is perfectly fine and I've been using this cord for 15 years without issue.
I bought a small generator with two goals: 1) it can run the fridge and 2) it was easy to move. I went for a 2kW Chinese made generator and the cord cost more than the genset!
What size cord for 60ft@@dontbanmebrodontbanme5403
How about grounding ? Also whether neutral should bonded or unbounded ?
Bonding at the generator will trip the generator main breaker if it's a GFCI style breaker. Otherwise, for a home back-up application, bonding neutral to ground on the generator is unnecessary because the house main panel should have that bonding connection
So this might already be in the comments somewhere, but the manual for the pro trans say they need to be used with a floating neutral generator. My understanding is that most generators have the ground and the neutral bonded at the generator. Is this a problem?
When the main breaker on the generator is GFCI protected - yes. Several brands have a 2 pole 50 amp GFCI breaker for it's MB. Trips instantly unless that jumper is removed
I noticed a couple of statements made in the video that need clarification to avoid problems. 1. Get a longer cord than needed. While a little is good too much or if the generator can't be placed near the power inlet if a long cable is needed up size the cord to reduce voltage loss. 2. You are correct about the exhaust. A good quality generator is not objectionable loud. 3. The use of a generator to feed the whole panel could result in low voltage and generator over load. Have a plan for load sharing to not damage anything.
4. The statement about the interlock is not so much to avoid damage to the generator, but to keep the line workers and storm cleanup crews safe. Back feeding the power lines can result in serious injury or death.
Time 55 seconds "generator inlet" Consider mounting sideways, so cord runs smoothly along garage will without sticking out from wall (trip hazard)
Would face down to keep weather out be a good idea??
Good tip on the length of cord, don't get cheap!
Good advice. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Can i use the generator inlet as a feed to my shed?
Quest... what gauge of wire and conduit do I use from the inlet box to the breaker panel? Thanks
@@jim6635 depends on the amperage: 30 amp will need 10 AWG, 50 amp 6 AWG.
The interlock is neat and all, but I'm way more concerned about backfeeding, so the linemen will be fine when I just shut off power in before the generator gets connected.
How much normally an electricians charge for installation of generator receptacle with wiring and interlock?
I live here in south east Alabama I go out once every month start up my generator with two coffee cups full of gas and let it run out of gas I change the oil once every year we had to use it for 9 hours this past Saturday
That is super smart. I will have to try it (letting it run out) with my generator. Hopefully, I'll keep my coffee and gas straight:)
Hal what do you know about bonded vs floating neutral? I have a generac 17500 bonded. Have 400 amp via two 200 amp panels have two 50 amp interlocks propane conversion kit gen shed but the bonded vs floating confuses me for back feed. I also have the genset grounded with #10
Your main panel should be bonded so you need to make your generator floating neutral. By code you can only have 1 bonded neutral in a circuit and thats at your panel.
I was confused also but from what i gathered is if there is a short somewhere when the power coming from neutral returns to the source it may not pick it up as the electricity can split and run parallel between both bonded neutrals and not trip a breaker. Having only 1 makes it a standard circuit so if something goes wrong you still jave the neutral/ground to return back to the source and trip a breaker in the even of a short or a live wire etc..
If youre running the generator as a stand alone say running power tools and not back feeding a panel where the neural is bonded then youre okay because in your stand alone you only have the generator connections in which bonded generator is the way to go.
I'm not an electrician but this confused me also and ive spent the last week trying to figure out what the hell bonded vs floating was and when to use and not use it.
White sharpie line on the chord plug and the inlet connector.....line up the fat white lines......easy to see.
My 2mw generators at work are kept in the loading dock with the exaust pumped outside and a big loovers for fresh air intake and cooling. Is it possible to do something simmilar for residential generators?
I have seen it done with a client creating a large box to reduce tge noise.
What is the maximum length when installing inlet box to the circuit panel? Iam looking for a solution on how to minimize the length of a 50 amps generator cord cause the distance is about 75 ft from where I want to put the generator to the circuit box. Thank you.
@@rjakeyno9065 There isn't a maximum for the hardwired cabling to the inlet. You just need to upside the wire gauge (assuming your load is 80% of capacity), from #6 to #4.
@@abrelectric Okay! I will just run wire up to10 ft to inlet box from circuit panel and stick to #6 awg. I appreciate your help.
I have a question, does the breaker for the transfer switch need to be located just under the main breaker? Or can it be installed anywhere on the panel? Thanks
Needs to be under it typically, because it mechanically connects the generator breaker to the main breaker.
@abrelectric OK, thank you, the 2 physically connect with an interlock switch?
@paullitchfield2651 that's correct. Look at geninterlock.com
Where are the links to the products you demonstrated?
Other advice would be to make sure
you're running a large enough inverter
generator. And put
a Micro-air Easy start on your A/C
compressor.
Ethanol free fuel is very much worth the investment- keep it fresh! I've found that cleaning out the fuel bowl once a year is a valuable maintainace item. Most generators have a low oil shut-off. If the generator will not start with a couple of pulls, make sure the oil is full.
Newer generators with the carbon monoxide detector seem to be problematic. Make sure yours works properly!
I always figured that my 5 kw gen put out 2500 watts X 2 on the 220 circuit. Turns out that it only provides 3.5kw, as do most portable generators. It is enough for my needs...make sure it is enough for yours!
Another tip no one really thinks about is with the generac automatic generators that run off natural gas. Keep a check on your Battery’s. A friend of mine was on vacation and just assumed his would kick on if something happened. He got home they are out of power basement full of water because sump pump not powered and lost everything in the freezer and fridge. So once a month check your battery and have it changed at suggested intervals
who in the world would check there battery every month. change it out every 4 years.
@@RHP2024 your supposed to start any generator at least once a month and run it for 30 minutes per maintenance manuals
Some models do auto checks.
Not mark btw. @@HappyCamper1992
Great points and Great info 👍👍👍 Although I'm well Prepared....I still missing a few points here,
Thank you
I got my house wired up for my generator last night with a 30amp breaker. My house is all electric and I have a 9000 watt Predator with 7250 constant watt generator. We powered up all the rooms and left the water heater off, range off, and dryer off. We went to power up the heat and waited for it to cycle on. When the thermostat kicked on, the generator bogged down hard and never allowed the heater to come on. My heater has a 60 amp breaker. My house is 1800 soft. What can I do to get the heater to work? I live out in Texas too.
I located my generator inlet right below a silcock spigot and Inide my 18AWG 4ft cord in the toilet tank, we have crime issues. I do scheduled maintenance quarterly or once every twenty five years come hell or high water. Does a dry run mean to remove all oil, and do the test run? My two best friends are lineman and I leave my main on. There wives are real shrews and they are depressed and it would be doing them a favor. Thanks for the video.
@kenneths.9315 no, thank YOU for all that goodness 😉
Great video if I have a 30 amp, 9,000 peak watt generator and a 30 amp but 7500 watt receptacle, would that be a problem? given that the generator has more wattage than the inlet box ?
9k peak, but what are the running watts?
sorry got wrong model correct info is 7500 Rated Watts and 9500 Peak Watts (Gasoline); 6750 Rated Watts and 8550 Peak Watts (Propane); , thanks @@abrelectric
Here is a question for you. A 50amp plug on a generator can only provide 12Kw but I've seen some 20Kw portable generators with two 50amp plugs. How can both plugs be patched into the electrical panel? I was thinking that 2 inlet boxes with 2 50amp breakers would do it as long as the X and Y legs on both inlet boxes are connected to the correct buss. Your thoughts?
In theory, I agree it's possible as long as the phases are synced. I've never done it myself.
I always use non-ethanol, gas in my generator when possible. During hurricanes I have to use regular gas due to supply but after hurricane season, I change it back to non-ethanol. My Generac generator is 20 years old.
Good to know. I'm glad to hear that your Generac is still serving!
Sir, If I install a Reliance 6 or 10 circuit circuit panel in my basement, can I also connect that panel with 2 x 30 amp inlet boxes. The reason being, I want 1 inlet box for outside for my gas powered generators, and another inlet box in the basement next to the Reliance panel to run my LiFepo4 Battery smart generators, and those generators are not rated to be outside in the elements and no worry on exhaust because they produce no exhaust, thats what I meant by rated outside.
At the same time? You can do that if you synchronize and match phasing on the 2 inputs.
Also, compare your THD on each output if you're combining inputs.
If I only have 120v in my main load center, do I still need a double pull 50amp breaker for this generator backup outlet?
What amperage?
Thank you. Its a 100amp main panel and I have a 60amp DP to a sub panel.@@abrelectric
@davidbruce5377 Sorry, I meant the amperage of the generator? Or KW rating? You can use a double pole breaker and only wire to one pole. You'll need a double for the size to connect mechanically to the interlock switch.
@@abrelectric its a 10 000 watt generator
Do transfer switch installs require a permit?
I see a lot of diy install videos but never see this mentioned.
Generally speaking, yes. Best course is to ask your municipality.
For some reason, permits aren't as exciting as other topics lol