How To Make an R410A Flare for a Mini Split AC Unit Installation
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 24 май 2020
- Eccentric Flaring Tool: amzn.to/3nFWg8d
R410A Flaring Tool With Depth Stop: amzn.to/36vHlnq
Ridgid Close Quarters Pipe Cutter: amzn.to/3eiFWDK
Knipex Needle Nose Pliers: amzn.to/2AUbm4I
Nylog Blue Sealant/Lubricant: amzn.to/40jcSVU
Subscribers get $25 off the Sense Home Energy Monitor by using code BENJAMIN at checkout: store.sense.com/discount/BENJAMIN
My Favorite Tool: amzn.to/3NIFJuO
Tools We Recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/benjamins...
The only difference between a standard flare and an R410A flare is that the R410A flare needs a slightly wider/longer flare surface. You can do this easily using a standard flaring tool by simply extending the pipe about 1/16th of an inch further through the flare.
Making a high quality flare on copper tubing is absolutely ESSENTIAL when making flare connections for refrigeration circuits. In this video I guide you through that process and also show you a few tips and tricks for how to prepare the pipe by removing the burrs and reaming out the inside of the pipe after cutting it. We also take a look at a very low quality factory flare as a comparison to the new flare that we create.
Thanks for watching and subscribing! As an Amazon affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for your support!
Blessings from MN,
Ben
Note that you should use Nylog ( amzn.to/40jcSVU ) if possible in order to improve the quality of your flares and flare connections. Simply put a small amount on the cone of the flaring tool before flaring and then a tiny bit more again when you make your final flare connection. Good luck on your flare!
Subscribers get *$25 off the Sense Home Energy Monitor* by using code BENJAMIN at checkout: store.sense.com/discount/BENJAMIN
Yes FlARINGTool and block The parts of flaring tool ate flaring block (anvil ) and flaring punch new tools or old model us the end of copper pipeare cutting eiside eng cleing tube cutter kinef is is sooth clen and flar inside gamen coppw enge iside flare time first cleing satnders after using good poper wsy .. the flare nuts on it to make the leak proof joints using Tee elbow or unino n flared end can be connected to open type copenrssor drier flared tupe use pope cein and using thride leckinv comd redon letast gas must bee good cleing aftef nes gas using mus bd new old gaz lecking very imporeanted ..drier shut off valve or cylinder the end of thd tubeto flared should be cleaned wellusing file and reamer tools using stanred cutter toos with somd copper tube cutter)the facd of each holw on flaring block is cut at 45°seatforflaringholdthe tube inside rhe flaring vblock extending 1/3pargof the length of flaringvvabove rhe block if the end of fler will be too vlarge cin dimeter and flareccnut vwillnot vfit vover itflare nut is tightìned it is good to put a dropof ac regraters oilvbusing poper seting sooth new pipe ok not uding allways uding fareing old the tube in side the flaring above the
There is also a product even better - FlareSeal - not rubber and not Nylog, but is pricey.
Mate why are u so perfect I’d love to see your quality of work 🤣
When using an eccentric flaring tool, it is important to first read the instructions. The required extension varies per manufacturer. For example, I own a Yellow Jacket eccentric flaring tool (Model 60295). The instructions specify a 1 mm extension, which is less than 1/16 of an inch. In contrast, your video instructs a 1/16" to 1/8" extension. If I used that length, I would risk splitting the copper. Also, as others have noted, you should put a drop of refrigerant oil (e.g., Nylog Blue) on the cone tip before flaring. The refrigerant oil acts as a lubricant and reduces the torque needed to make a flare. It also helps to extend the life of the tool.
Thank you for the valuable insight...
@@puccha10 it's pretty valuable to be honest.
I'm a RUclips junkie, this camera angles, resolution, lighting, magnification, is spot on! 👍
I am too Dustin. Can't get over the quality of many videos. Sometimes I enjoy watching just to see the sophistication of the video itself. Putting the sound, the different camera shoots, editing, etc, kudos to successful RUclipsrs.
Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ruclips.net/user/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
Professional HVAC guy has "egregious" in his vocabulary, has invested in quality tools, and reads the instructions. Hack says "teflon tape will fix this flair good 'nuff!", spells flare wrong, overtightens it and doesn't bother with a vacuum pump. Then gives a bad review of the equipment he bought online because it failed. Good skills and experience will always win.
Also, excellent video skills; good job getting the focus correct and showing the cone rolling the flare through the gap.
Thanks
Well said Mark!
That eccentric flare is fantastic. Back in the day when the family had an automotive custom business, we did a lot of steel brake lines.. All we had was the straight push cone flare tool. This is SO much better.
Thank
Brake lines are supposed to be double flared nowadays. Not sure about longer ago.
Good video. Another really important tool I started using is a flare gauge. To make sure they are perfect every time. Helps a ton.
This was another excellent video tutorial that you have presented. I’m getting ready to order the R410A and pipe cutter.
Really excellent video, perfectly demonstrating the difference between a good flare and a bad one. This is very helpful.
As a newbie I have watched several of these videos trying to learn how to flare copper piping. After several attempts and several failures I finally watched this video and within five minutes was making perfect flares. Thanks for the help! Sub’d
Quick tip , the notch in the rollers on the copper cutter is to put the flare into and cut off just about 1/4 inch to remove just he flare. Good to know if you ever leave a nut off and don’t have a lot of pipe to work with
Sweet!
Pretty good video Benjamin.
As a retired Commercial HVAC owner.
I have struggled with flares for many years, till I discovered Rigid makes a double flare tool set. Ridgid 33927 Specifications:
• Model No.: 345/150DL
• Size: No. 345 w/No. 150 Tubing Cutter and case kit (Rather expensive but worth it)
Believe me when I tell you when you make double flares, you'll never go back to the old tools again.
It forms the tubing inward first with a small button, you remove the button then use the sets flaring tool.
I never had a leak after that, and it is good for thousands of LBS
Johnson Refrigeration / Happy Retired.
Is it safe to use double flares on mini split units ? I assume all it does is make the flare itself thicker , correct ?
@@marcoeis6598 When I use a double flare, I always use the heavier duty flare nuts. You could actually. tighten down enough to actually feel The copper under. the double flare compress and make a Leak proof 100% Seal.
With a standard flare. you'll always be afraid to over tighten. and split the copper..
Good video. I've always had trouble deburring the tube. I like the way you raised the burr with needle nose first and then cut off the burr. I'll keep that in mind for next time I'm flaring a line.
Well done. I have made flares in the past and did not think of using the needle nose or the knife. Learned from you, thanks.
Hello there , how are you doing today?God bless you!!❤
Holy shit, I thought it was weird that you're using high end electricians needles then I come to find out, you're that electrician guy I used to watch. Great content, dude! 👍💪
Hahaha that's awesome!!!
Ben, you're the man, thank you for all these super helpful videos! 👍
It is always recommended to use nylog or to use the same oil that is used in the system on the cone of the tool, it will make a far smoother flare and NO it will not hurt the system if a tiny bit gets inside because it is the same as what is in the system already.
some new machines you are not supposed to expose the oil to air at all!!
@@youtubier2839 if you are installing refrigeration equipment such as a mini split then use nylog on the face of the flare.
Thank you I think I'll be making my own flares on my line set 👍😁
I'm curious - is there ever a time when you would want to create a flare on a short tube, polish that flare, then clean it of all polishing material, then solder that shorter segment into your longer tube?
I was wondering how the eccentric cone would create an even flare once you've reached the desired depth. That torque clutch feature is really cool!
Others have mentioned already but it bears repeating. Great camera work. Really easy to see what your describing.
I did some copper flaring years ago, on a project. What a pain. I now see what I was doing wrong. I did finally get it, but not without many tries. Thanks
Thank for the very detailed instructions on how to do this, and the very clear views of the process.
This type of Flaring tool is indeed the best result. But many of us use less expensive equipment. Of course it takes a little struggle with simple tools
as i was taught 40 yrs ago and still teach.stick pipe thru block the thickness of a nickle,slithly more .highly recommend tork style blocks.too many tough guys wrecking flares.
Great clarity and detail. Could you do one on replacing windscreen wiper inserts?
Wow good job u have done it with doing perfect flare I like and appreciate your job welldone
Nicely done. You don't mention the shoe, but we can see it makes a convenient place to place the tool. Thanks for sharing
AaaaaaAAAH! geez! that "factory standard" flare makes my skin crawl. My split machine came with a set of tubes with a similar finish. I bought a set of tools and practised on copper tubing until I much perfected* it, then I proceeded to assemble my AC unit.
After a few years of the split being in use I had an AC professional take a look at it, they did a leak sniff for insurance reasons, he found no fault except some astethic choices I made.
AFAIK 14 years later it was still working.
*Perfected = the tool set was considerably cheaper than yours; lacked the torque-stop and eccenter. The tube clamping part of device always left a small pinch mark on tube above the flare. The pinch mark did not interfere with the nut so it did not matter much.
How many times have you finished making the flare and just as you're about to install the line you realize you forgot to slip the nut on first? 😆
Never. ;)
😂 I have done that before. It's a humbling experience. Only seems to happen if someone is watching!
@@ReubenSahlstrom Well if someone's watching then it's guaranteed to happen. Ha ha
Almost every time, lol
Happens to everyone once in a while 😂😂
Use a nickel to set the depth of the pipe before flaring.
Nice flare. The flare nut on the 410a is not only stronger but the threads match up to the unit it came off of.
The threads are the threads. It's not like the factory is custom matching them.
Hey Ben, I just bought a Mr. Cool mini-split. I need to run the line set under the crawl space and up the wall for 2 rooms. For bending the line sets from the air handler and under the house, how do you recommend I do it? Carefully by hand or use a tool? Yes, this is my first mini split install
Thanks so much for your very informative video, I'm in the middle of doing my gas stove in my kitchen but was very concerned about my flare on 5/8 copper tubing it was very hard to achieve a flare let alone a non scratchy flare I believe I need a different flaring tool .
do you recommend this for a first timer? I bought Senville Spljt ACs and I am up in the air if u should hire someone to cut the flairs and pull a vacuum or should I do it myself?
So I just kinked and broken a 3/4 lineset for a mr cool system bc I'm just an awesome guy. I was considering doing a flare/nut repair for this keeping both ends the same so they connect to the system as they should . Which nut should I use ?
nice video.. have done literally thousands of flares. deburring advisable in putting a cut copper end into a swedged end to solder, but on flare the process of flaring makes that redundant, at the most, smooth the edge of the finished flare. Use a little oil on the flareing tool, the lubricating makes it easier to turn in especially on larger diameters. Definitely inspect "seat" into flare nut. Before you join to the male end, put a little mineral oil on the male end. It, again, will help to "spin" it in and creates a liquid lock, some what like pipe thread dope.
What type of oil do you recommend?
@@ulisescruz157 carry a boottle zoom oil ( mineral oil) just a drop or two
The jury is still out on using oil or not. With the tool he used, it really isn’t necessary. Where you should use the oil is on the back of the flare, then the nut won’t twist the line as you are tightening.
Do you or anyone out there use a tad bit of a poe type oil or nulog sealant type product to lubricate this process to further limit any scratches and improve the smoothness of the flange?
Home Depot has a husky flare tool identical to yours $39 works great has the clutch too
When using an eccentric flaring tool, it is important to first read the instructions. The required extension varies per manufacturer. For example, I own a Yellow Jacket eccentric flaring tool (Model 60295). The instructions specify a 1 mm extension, which is less than 1/16 of an inch. In contrast, your video instructs a 1/16" to 1/8" extension. If I used that length, I would risk splitting the copper. Also, as others have noted, you should put a drop of refrigerant oil (e.g., Nylog Blue) on the cone tip before flaring. The refrigerant oil acts as a lubricant and reduces the torque needed to make a flare. It also helps to extend the life of the tool.
If you put a "tiny" dab of anti seize on the cone it will come out looking like a mirror and with much less effort, a real big help when doing SS!
Use refrigeration oil. Good idea, but anti seize could contaminate the system. Maybe. 👍
@@michaelrice500 Just clean well when done.
Nylog
@@michaelrice500 What type of oil do you recommend?
Wow. Perfect flare AND remembered to put the nut on first!!
I loved the needle nose trick!
Looks like the same cheap Amazon concentric flare kit that I bought. It does work.
Nice flare but Some flaring tools want less pipe coming out of the top of the tool and some have a Little stopper that stops the pipe at the right spot for that brand of tool.
Save some time and buy the spin tool. It works awesome. Thanks for the video
I have to say you have done an excellent job! Personally, I always felt uncomfortable with flare fittings because all of those scratches can pose any risk.
Needle noes trick worked great! Thanks
Beautiful job~
Great video - very thorough explanation for something that a lot of people often don't give enough attention to!
A lot of mini-split systems now come with a type of alloy 1/4 & 3/8, with just cut ends, how do you deal with that.
Great video, and great close shots
Nice Video , nice audio, best explaination... good luck
Thank you so much sir
Your videos are superb. I like how you used, "egregious" in this one. Great word!
Professional work I like your job 👍
so that is like a clutch-type flaring tool, because it releases the pressure with the clutch somehow?
and the wing-nut type would be just a regular lever/handle on top of the tool screw?
Thanks. Fantastic camera work really showed how to get this done perfectly. I didn't know about that eccentric flaring tool! Now, I do. Nice work.
Hi Ben, where did you buy your flare orbital?
I saw few issues. 1st - u need to take Daikin installation guide and check sizes of tubes between rail and eccentric head. 1/4 - 0.8 mm, 3/8 - 1mm. 2nd issue - when u tight the flaring tool pull back screw on 90 degrees, much easier to flare and eccentric screw will live more than 2 years.
I have made several dozen flares on copper, steel, and occasionally aluminum tubing, and I never trust a single flare. A double flare is double the thickness thus it is much less prone to cracking as is common with single flares, especially if disassembled and reassembled.
Wow amazing.....love the flairing tool
Great video. What about the connection towards the head unit. Did they give you an extra nut for that one as well? My mini split line set that included with my mini split has the same night as your existing one. It did not come with a r410a nut. I'm going to purchase one and it install it. But I would like to know about the head unit
What a difference a good and correct tool makes ... Good vid Benji ...
Do you put any lubricant on the tool face before flaring?
Awesome video man. i have the mastercool flaring tool and am having trouble with mine its brand new and makes a nice flare on all sizes but the smaller 1/4 whenever i try that size the click and shut off happens to quickly and the flare doesnt look big enough so i have to try force it more and make the flare bigger. If anyone else has this trouble could you let me know. Thanks
Benjamin Sahlstrom Have you considered double flairing. It's slightly more complex but IMHO is much better. There are several videos about it on RUclips. Once I tried it, I never went back to single flaired fuel lines.
If you put refrigeration oil on the tubing end while flaring, it comes out really smooth.
I love this channel
The flare tool is too tight around my 1/2” pipe and deforms the flare, any pointers there?
i bought this tool and had hell of a time flaring the pipe, either the pipe was under sized or the tool over sized, my caliper battery died but i am guessing about .01" difference on 1/4 connection and like .015" on 3/8 connection i ended up practicing on scrap piece and using aluminum can to make shims and make up the difference
kindly advice to control gas leakage in ac copper pipe which paste or gum i use to control
Good job on this video Benjamin! You have great patience and that is truly what makes a good service tech.
You absolutely used the right tools and techniques for flaring. If I could just add to what you mentioned in the video without sounding like a know-it-all, R-410a flares are at a 45 degree angle, not necessarily any bigger than a standard flare (37 degrees). It's the angle that is important to prevent leaks.
When I first started installing mini splits, there were no classes available and we had nothing but problems with leaks. We were using standard flare blocks, not knowing that these required a different flare. When Mitsubishi finally offered some training, our problems became apparent, and through the use of the correct flaring tool and a torque wrench, most of our problems went away overnight!
Anyways, great job!
I think you put the same nut on the new flare... Lol!!! Great video,,, Very informative...
Excellent work.
I love this attention to detail. Nobody ever sees these things. Bravo sir. 🫡
Curious... Would adding a heavy lubrication to the flaring tool be advisable to make the flare easier/better for a non refrigeration line? Obviously you wouldn't use a lubricant on a refrigeration line but something like an air line or maybe transmission lines?
Nice work!! Thank you very much for sharing!
Your work is very good thank you so much
So you can take a flaring tool and smooth out the scratches of an existing flare of any type no matter what the tubing is made out of is that true???
Is there a video for fabbing the other end to fit in there?
Nice flaring .. good job 👍
This video is perfect, thank you 👍
Very good job, thanks for the input
A drop of refrigerant oil is necessary during flaring process and also during the nut attachment.
Well Done. Thanks for the info.
Forget one more thing, is the flange nut forged or not ???? Even with a heavier looking nut, forged is still way stronger. Just saying Sir. Good day. VF
Do you use the sealing washers and nylock?
Are flares ok to use for 410 then? I'm looking at ZoomLock but the cost is very high. My original installed's brazing is like the ironbird shitteth and they are all leaking now.
Good job
Great job
No lubrication?
I really appreciate your video, it was just prefect no bs.
What do you do if the flare is to big in diameter?
The Navac gun that makes flares is the absolute best!!!
On a R32 system what is the correct HG for the vacuum pressure?
Great video, thank you. Quality counts. ))
Funny thing is... I have to do this tomorrow for the first time so... thanks for the help!
Excellent tutorial my friend.
About the thickness of a nichol will give you exact amount of pipe to flare
What is a nichol?
@@jimwhite9483 auto correct . Should have read as nickel as in 5 cent piece
We use flare seal adhesive along with flaret gasket
Excellent craftsmanship.😊
I'm guessing you use nylog on all your connections?
Great job.