Complete Mr Cool Install
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- In this video I sho you how to install the Mr Cool DIY Series mini split unit. I will also share my thoughts and opinions on them after using them for over 2 years.
Affiliate links to Mr Cool DIY Minisplit units. Disclaimer, as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
24,000 BTU Mini Split
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My condenser was directly outside the inside unit, so I had a big coil of line left over. I bought a white RV spare tire cover to cover it. Probably not needed, but it looks better than the coiled line and I think it adds some UV and physical protection. The spare tire cover was pretty cheap from a local RV dealer.
Great suggestion!!!
That sounds way nicer then re flaring the lines haha, great idea
I have this exact same unit. Installed it 2 years ago and use it constantly. It completely blows my old portable Whynter unit away. It's been crazy hot the last couple of weeks here in Texas, and supposed to be 102 degrees average this week. I have it set to hold the garage at 74 degrees.
You are describing my journey. I ALSO had the whynter portable dual hose unit (largest one on Amazon) and it always struggled to keep up with my single car garage that I insulated here in hot Florida.
In my new house and 2 car garage uninsulated shop (only the door is insulated), I didn't play around and have ordered a 24k unit. It's in my garage and ready to be installed. I purposefully oversized to make sure it could keep up with the larger space and the fact it's uninsulated in the ceiling and cinderblock walls and the longer run of line set.
Personally I went with a slightly less DIY option and hopefully won't regret it. I took the time to watch tutorials on how to cut and flare copper lines since I want a clean install without extra length coiled up.
How much of a difference in electric bill. Also live in Texas. Considering this depending on additional cost
@@BryanSmith705 I doesn't use much electricity at all. Maybe increased bill by 15-20% and I usually run it all day long about 3-4 days per week. Ductless generally more energy efficient than traditional systems
What part of Texas are you in? Did you install or did someone install for you
I purchased a Fujitsu mini split 3 years ago. I did the entire install except install the line set and the final charge and testing. 2 years ago it leaked out all the gas, and the repairman couldn't find a leak. Last December it quit again. The guy that installed it passed from covid and the second company that re-charged it on the service call never showed up, after about 6 calls. I ripped it out, ordered a 12k Mr. Cool, installed it and (so far) it's fantastic. The only problem I've had with the app is the Geofencing doesn't seem to work correctly. The app shuts off the unit at 6:30 PM and starts it at 6 AM. In the winter I'll keep it on, but I'm very pleased with the unit.
We put mini splits in our house this spring. If it freezing or 93 degrees outside makes no difference, it's always the same inside. But we used a different brand (Senville) and each unit was several hundred dollars cheaper then mr cool. Only difference was you need to apply a vacuum to the lineset since they are not precharged. I had a vacuum at work used for automotive a/c work already.
I have two of the 18000 BTU units and was able to get the remote and app syncing perfectly. The key is having a reasonably good Wi-Fi signal in the garage. I have an access point right above my garage unit in the attic storage which is insulated as well. Proper insulation of the shop is really important as you noted.
Hey Dennis, how big of a space are your heating and cooling? Scott
Wow, I have no idea how I stumbled on your channel (clicked something without enough coffee), but what a flippin' unbelievably well done video. Can't wait to explore other topics. Thank you!
Thanks for the clearly spoken and detailed presentation.
I just moved up to Salem, Oregon and we had a brutal heat wave come through. I had 3 window air conditioners running all day for like 2 weeks straight. I am loath to see my next electric bill. The house was built in '99 and has a gas furnace without AC. I think I might be able to add an AC unit to the furnace, but I think it will outrageously expensive. I think I'm just going to put a mini-split in the front room (it's kind of open-concept) to cover the living areas and then probably use window units for the bedrooms at night when it's really hot. I'm also going to install solar to cover our electric bills, so I'd much rather heat the house with the mini-split than using gas.
Mrcool should put together a service network that can do warranty work and maintenance
My wife bought me a 18k BTU Mr. Cool for our 25th anniversary in mid-2020. Love it - and her - more every day.
My garage is 20' 10" x 32' 4" with ~11' 8" ceiling (about 7850 cubic ft). The only time mine didn't keep up heating my garage was during the freeze of mid-Feb 2021, when the temps here in the Kansas City area averaged ~7ºF high and the average 0ºF low for 10 consecutive days. Otherwise, it's heated and cooled my space without issue.
IT should have kept up with your heating at -7F , how was your garage insulated? was it good or very little insulation?
@@karmendimas5274 When I say it "didn't keep up", I mean it didn't warm much higher than 62-ishº F. I'd agree with you if I had 9' - 10' ceilings, or if mine were below a finished, conditioned space.
I ended up with a hose hanger and bought some siding that matched the house. Painted and insulated it. That was 2017 and it’s still purring along.
We have a Fujitsu mini split and it’s been “ok” I would say so so. Me and my wife put a addition onto the house 700sq ft ( it is 2 rooms, not just one open room ) and I do wish now we would have just went with a real unit vs the mini split. #1 Simply because I don’t know how to really mess with them. They are absolute breeding grounds for mold and bacteria ( if not absolutely done correctly, and making sure you take them down completely and clean them every 6 months ) the lines inside need to be wrapped because if not they tend to sweat which of course creates a damp environment which causes mold once again. I was badly ill and couldn’t figure out why. Finally figured out we have mold in our mini split system. I would say these are great for a shop, garage, maybe a open space bonus room or something of that nature but that’s about it.
Just installed the same unit. Very easy including the electrical
I have the 18k BTU model, and when it comes to App vs Remote, I tend to lean heavily on the app (as you noticed one will cancel the other out, it can get very cumbersome). Mostly because I'm using mine in a living room I tend to set and adjust a schedule based system (Cool @ noon 76° M-F etc).
The benefit of using the app in your situation is that you could play around with the Comfy mode (s) say you're out of town and have a project that you don't want to get /too/ hot just-in-case it's a warm day/weekend/etc:
At/below 75° it'll turn to fan only mode(Or off), and at/above 80° it'll change to cool/dry mode @ 78° or vice versa in the winter (for heat).
I accidentally ran across your channel and I can’t stop watching your videos!
I wasn’t even looking for anything like your channel. I was looking for info on lacquered kitchen cabs!😂
Glad you are enjoying it!
"2 or 3 boxes". Hah, my wife gets home, walks in from the garage and says "DIY?!" I laughed, because she saw the crate, stacked to 6' with 11 boxes on it. It gave me pause when I saw it, but I watched enough videos, and read the instructions before purchase, so I knew what the components were when I saw the boxes and was not overwhelmed. I have 2 zones and my install is complex in that I have 2 floors of attic to navigate for a 3rd floor install. This unit appears quite simple to install, its' just my runs that are going to be a pain. Since my run is long and complex, I am upgrading the condensate line to 3/4" PVC. I don't want drainage, age or pest problems...
We will see how it goes, gotta finish my wall before install... It is an interior wall which adds complexity, and why I wanted the unit in my hands before I finished the wall, allowing me to ensure the pathway and mounting will be perfect, with no surprises.
BTW, video was very good and helpful. I'm not afraid to tackle any home related DIY project, with exception to HVAC and touching that electrical sub panel, but since these lines are pre-charged, that HVAC portion has an asterisk now... Still no sub panel though; shocking, am I right?
I got the 18k for my 14x20 gable shop, I found that the app didn’t work for the longest time only to discover if you hide the ssid (like me) it wouldn’t connect, tho it did work in the setup. I am in NH and over the winter left it at 68 and it was perfect. The only thing I don’t like is the temp is taken by the thermostat in the unit. I am looking to get the Mr Cool thermostat as I found this summer the unit set to 68 but the temperature is about 62. Heat pumps run best like Geo, set the thermostat and forget it, don’t adjust it all the time
Finally read the manual and warranty that I found on line. Sounds like the inside unit is not charged and if you remove the plugs it will let in air and moisture. Just says join quickly! Same with the sealed lines as it can leak refrigerant till tight! Warranty is a joke as you pay to have an HVAC person confirm the unit is bad if anyone will look at! Then you pay to have unit shipped back and pay for them to ship the replacement. Also have to register it each year and pay to get cleaning kit to clean outside unit every 6 months or no longer in warranty. In other words they make warranty terms to where they will never have to cover anything. They could say they warranty forever as the terms are meaningless as a warranty.
Fabulous as always, but can we shorten the electrical connections in your quick disconnect? Too much copper below the screw terminals. Safety first! Thanks again.
I enjoyed your detailed video., Oddly enough I am looking to install a mini split, I believe the one I am buying is a 2 ton with a heat pump so i will be able to work in my shop all year. My shop is 20x30 as well. I am looking to finish it out inside so I can insulate and put up a finished wall and ceiling. Thanks for the info.
Jason, with the fine dust generated in your shop do you have issues with the filters in this unit getting clogged and causing issues?
Great review. I have considered one also but I have limited power available for any new addition.
They do have smaller options as well 👍
First time I saw this channel. This was very helpful and you have a very good style for this.
Starting my search for shop im about to build. Very good clear info. Thanks a lot
You’re welcome
"When they offered to be a part of this new space, it was a no brainer..." DUH!!! A FREE AC???!!! Yeah!!
Awesome video and feedback man. I just got the 36K for my house and im going to install it soon.
Common DIY mistake is to use NM type wiring outdoors. Use separate conductors that are wet rated, ie. THHW, THW for anything outside. If you’re dead set on cable, then pull UF type.
Another item on wiring is use the nameplate to determine your breaker size (maximum overcurrent) and wiring size, disconnect size, etc. (minimum circuit ampacity). It is required to be on all HVAC equipment and you wire it up according to that.
Based on what I saw he used UF cable .
I like how the line set goes through the wall and connections are made outside. One question, does Mr. Cool say not to pull a vacuum before releasing charge from condenser?
The line set is pre-charged, all you have to do is connect them, no specialty HVAC tools needed.
@@bladee_enjoyer540 Thanks Jack!
@@bladee_enjoyer540 Although if you are doing a multi-zone unit biting the bullet and buying the $100 special torque wrench isn't a terrible idea. If you put in 3 head units you are going to need to torque 12 fittings with no leaks. It is one thing if you do it all the time and have a feel for it. It is another if you are only doing it once every decade and just need it right the first time. Wrench is $100. Each line set about $300 if purchased individually. So not so expensive compared to even one mistake.
It would have been nice to show the wiring to the blower. I can get it to open
I'm an electrician and I'm at a loss here. my unit is 240v, nowhere to land nuetral in the outdoor unit, yet the indoor unit calls for a nuetral. the nuetral terminal for the indoor unit is paralleled with the terminal labeled for L2, which would be a hot, since it's 240v.
In the beginning of this video. You have what appears to be garage door insulators. Which ones are they and do they work well?
Is there a checklist of all accessories required, recommended optional items to supplement the "unit order which is only the major parts, i.e. evaporator, condenser and coolant lines"? Yes there is a configurator on some websites, looking for some confidence in placing one complete order and avoid finding a need for additional parts once installation is underway.
Thanks for the video and effort.
Interesting timing on this video. My mini split just crapped out on me after spending $700 to get it recharged only to have the refrigerant leak again. So I'm in the market. This looks simple to install. Do you have any issues you can pass along or any tips and tricks not covered in the video? Thanks.
I have another older install video you may find useful as well
@@bentswoodworking I have been trying to get through to customer service for days now and it just hangs up. Not a lot of confidence if I ever need something from them.
@@ericruggiero7490 Yes, that was my experience too. MrCool shipped my order with a non-working FedEx tracking number. Neither I nor the Lowes Customer Support team (Kudos to those folks... They really stepped up !!) got ANY word back from the number provided by MrCool's documentation. And NO response from the MrCool email support submission I also attempted.
It did arrive (4th Gen 12K) with NO shipping damage to the packaging, yet the outside condenser unit had dents in the metal ! Not large but visible. I'm concerned about longevity, QA of the unit, and support. The unit works fine... for now ! It' s been running during the 3 weeks of 90+ heat (unusual for the North East) noticed a problem of not reading the room temperature accurately. I'll see if MrCool support is more responsive with this and my other questions.
Too early to tell if I regret going with MrCool, but I'm not as happy as I hoped.
Great video and explanation on approximant cost to run. I may go this way, I'll have 1200 sf.
Good info as always. I’m curious to see how the 24k performs vs the 18k. One of these units are DEFINITELY IN my future! Just want to make an educated decision on which one. I’d always err on the side of too big (personally)
Oversizing an AC unit is a mistake, the most important job it has is to first dehumidify the air. If you oversize it, it will cool the air to satisfy the thermostat and you will have cool wet air, not a great feeling.
@@ffbellsBells You mention a great point. I bought a 24k for my 2-car garage and found it to be just fine. I'm in Northern California so the climate is very temperate, but garages are not anywhere as well insulated as a regular room in a home. I have insulated my garage door but being it is metal there only so much it can do. I have central A/C, but my gas furnace and gas water heater are in the garage. This means that the heat from the water heater, even though it's got an insulation blanket on it, adds heat to the garage. And because of the gas fired equipment there is a 4" x 14" open vent at floor level on one of the walls that can't be blocked to supply combustion air for them which is a source warm on a hot day and cold air on a cold day. So, in my case a 24k is actually well suited, but everyone else should size according to their situation.
All the Best, Chuck
Hate to do this but NEVER EVER use a crescent wench on tubbing. There is no faster way to round a nut :(
I find that a good quality adjustable wrench, is far better than a cheap wrench; assuming you properly set it.
Free 24k AC. nice.
Mr cool is trying to put together a network of repair people a lot of people are installing these units it would make sense for companies to start servicing them
I'm shopping around for a building to be delivered to my property to be my new shop. It doesn't have to be huge. Your old garage shop i believe was 20× 30. Is your new one much bigger than your old one or close to the same size ?
Thank you - enjoy your channel very much
Need to pull a vacuum on the line set before releasing refrigerant
Do the lines from the inside units have to go out the wall or can they turn and go up through the ceiling into the attic crawlspace to then run outside? I don't want to install the condenser directly opposite the indoor unit, on a two zone system.
I do believe if they turn up you will get back flow. It has to continue downward from the unit
you will need a condensate pump
How come the Manufacturer says a HVAC tech is needed to vacuum the system, and for final wiring hookup to validate the Warranty????
You right he is wrong you need to put the unit in vacuum and pull to 500 microns I'm going to investigate this I'm an HVAC there maybe something I'm missing about the pre charged line set
@@jayquin7336 Mr. Cool can provide a "Pre-charged" line set that is sealed at each end and has already been evacuated and contains a small amount of refrigerant. When you connect the line set to each end of the unit, the line opens through their special valve automatically releasing the refrigerant. Then you simply open the taps on the high and low side to release the refrigerant from the main unit into the line sets and your golden! No Vacuum required IF YOU USE THE MR COOL LINE SET. You MUST do this and use their line set to insure full warranty from Mr Cool as a DIY Install. The other option is to do it the old school way you have described and install traditional line sets and vacuum them down before releasing the refrigerant. I know, it's crazy, but evidently it works well or they would not keep selling them. I kind of like the sound of a 10 Year DIY Warranty myself. If more vendors start doing this you may have to find a new home for your vacuum pump, LOL! If you are a professional HVAC Tech or Company, you may find that this saves you many hours of brazing or soldering line sets, pressure testing them and then vacuuming them down before being able to release the refrigerant into the systems. Over the course of a year, it could actually make you a lot of money in recaptured time to service additional customers thus increasing your bottom line... Just Say'in...
Why is there a house line leading to outside condenser when there is already a house line leading to the outside disconnect?
After hooking my 2 zone unit up, I immediately got a message on both indoor units, flashing 88 and beeping once. As far as I can tell i have an electrical connection error somewhere, but can't seem to figure it out. Any idea what might be happening?
Is the 24K unit 220 or 110? I’ve had several estimates performed and all of them said I would need 220 run to the outdoor unit.
My wire is not attached and the colors don't line up and there are no numbers on them.
When I see that Quick Disconnect only what comes to my mind is thought, you should leave that work for electrician.
Did pull a vacuum prior to start up
That's what I'm asking wtf
I have had a p4 code on my 2nd mr cool unit and my compressor does not work. I have never had a noticeable power surge/fluctuation but I suppose it is possible. Before I change out the unit I believe it might be advisable to prevent any potential surge. Do you or others have suggestions for using surge protectors? Yea or nay? Where to place one? Whole house or just on the power to the unit? Thank for your help.
hooks up at the disco
I appreciate your video install tutorial. but it does not apply to all Mr. Cool units. My wires were colored, but the corresponding terminals were not color coded. I had to find a small sticker on the inside of the unit to figure it out. It had a red wire, and black wire, but it had a white wire instead of what have been a yellow wire and it had a green wire that was referenced as a Y/G on the sticker. Also the pipes were not color coded, but it was clear based, what went where, based on the size of the fittings. I also had to install the wire into the inside unit (The wiring wasn't pre-done on the inside unit. This seems like an easy thing that Mr. Cool could do). The set of instructions I had were super vague and not specific to my specific unit, so there was some guessing that had to be done. At one part of my instructions, it even instructed me to cut the copper piping and "flare" the ends of my own fittings.
Anybody have an idea on how much an electrician would possibly charge to install a panel for the Mini Split ? Thanks
we install both the a/c and voltage in our area for $1300 labor, parts cost about $300.
This seems to be a different install than the units I've watched several years ago. I've wanted to do this but got hung up with vacuum evacuating the lines. That doesn't seem to be necessary with this kid and it makes all the difference to me. I'm going to be one of those people who finally pulls the trigger based on this video.
The added cost of the system is a bit more than just buying a vacuum pump+Gauges+Tools and doing it yourself.
So I installed one and I have a gap between the AC and the wall on the side where the hoses are. Has anyone had this problem?
Another question if the unit shows a P4 code and the compressor stops operating is it "shot" or is there a reset process? I have not seen any directions to reset. The instructions simply say the cause is likely a Power Surge...?
Can the line set be ran from the other side of the indoor unit? I’m replacing an LG unit that the line set is running out the left side when facing it, this video shows running it out the right side following the template , thanks
Thanks!
That amount of exposed wire on that disconnect is concerning. The insulation should be all the way up to the connection.
not really it's good
It's not pretty but it's not stranded so I'd say it's fine
Hi, thanks for sharing is this the fourth generation or third generation thanks
Which screws did you use because mine didn’t come with those screws like your video and mine only came with one mesh filter to add to the filter tray.
Was that #10/2 wire from the breaker box to the shut off box thanks
How do you control the dust from getting in it?
You don't, you clean it out monthly. It gives a reminder. I just blow it out with my compressor.
Anyone e in Nevada? I want to se how it does at 110°
So, since it's a DYI unit. What happens when it needs repair OR something is wrong with the machine in the beginning?
No pipes evacuation?
That's what I'm saying
They say, in the fine print, if it wasn’t installed by an hvac professional, Mr. cool will void the warranty, can you please clarify if it’s true?
Check again because I believe that only applies if you DON'T USE the Mr. Cool "Pre-Charged Line Sets".
what color wires are 123
You mentioned the “pre-charges” line set and Mr Cool me too Ed that to one of my comments on another video. But when you connected the line set to the air handler pig tails you made no mention of breaking the seal (which I assume it does if the lines are “pre-charged). Is that something that happens as you tighten it?
The valves on the end of the line sets appear to be spring loaded, so yes, my understanding is that when you tighten them down, after a seal is formed, the valve inside the line set opens and releases the refrigerant inside. I read one article where someone wanted to move a unit from an old home to a new one, and he was able to pump the unit down into the condenser, unscrew the line set and reinstall at his new home using the same hardware and it all worked out just fine. I think I saw it on one of the RUclips video's a couple of years ago. Really cool feature if they still work this way.
Very cool dude (pun intended) 😎
FYI, all the HVAC guys over at garage journal caution against using Mr. Cool because of having to coil the excess line set which they say causes pooling of oil/contaminants in the low point of the coiled line set. This was why I went a alpine home air traditional mini split so I could shorten the line set. Downside is that I had to have my HVAC friend Vac it down before releasing the refrigerant. If you run the line set so that there are no coils, then Mr. Cool would be the way to go. I did all this research years ago before I put one in my garage. Circa 2014-15.
How often do u clean your filter?
Jason, great content as usual, didn’t realize you were a fellow Hoosier!!
Would love to talk woodworking over a cup of Joe if you interested! I’m in Westfield.
Oh nice. I’m in Avon now. Maybe we can meet up sometime
HELP! Just installed mine but it won't blow cold air
Did you release the lines?
@@bentswoodworking yes. Ans today I got a "EC" error. I turned breaker on and off and 15 min and it shut off again. I tightened all the lines at both end, each time doing the soapy water test. I Just turned it on now. again. Let's see how it goes. Fingers crossed
I use the app for the pioneer brand mini split and it seemed to be fussy on what setting I had my router encryption like wps, WPA and wpa2
What if you need a longer line set. No problem extending the electrical, but what do you do with pre-charged tubing?
There are two options. Best option is to measure correctly the first time and order the unit with the correct length. They make 4 or 5 lengths. It may cost you more to order from a company that will configure the unit with custom line set lengths, but it is still tons less money than having a unit installed for you. The second option is if you mess up and you get a line set that is too short. They make couplers that can put 2 line sets together. You just have to successfully make 2 more connections in the middle... increasing the odds of a leak etc. But it will get you out of a jam and let you try to use an expensive line set that would otherwise be of no use at all to you.
Is the disconnect necessary? Or is that just a local code thing?
So, usually a local disconnect is used whenever equipment is hardwired. This allows you to de-energize the equipment for maintenance as opposed to just unplugging it from an outlet. Homes don't usually have a breaker panel that allows adequate locking out of breakers so a local disconnect is used. And I believe most (can't say all) local codes would require one. If not, I would recommend one. I used a 30amp RV all weather outlet and plug for mine, but that's another story. 😎
All the Best, Chuck
What do those little filters do that go on the indoor unit?
collect dust, keeps the coil clean.
Are you a Mr. Cool Influencer?
bro could you have possibly stripped back more of that black wire? lol...
I’ve installed a lot of these and never used a 3 1/2” hole; I think everyone I’ve used has been either a 2” or 2 1/2” hole. The pre-charged refrigerant is kept in the exterior unit and not within the lines themselves. Also you should really rent, borrow, or buy a gauge set and vacuum pump as without vacuuming the lines you have air and water vapor in your refrigerant lines which can lead to premature failure or components as well as reducing efficiency.
You over stripped your wires, or your electrician did, with regard to the exterior disconnect, you shouldn’t have that length of bare copper exposed considering current carrying conductors; exposed wire can pose an electrocution hazard both to a person servicing the unit as well as to any animals that may get into the electrical equipment.
You seem like a capable person but to provide a technical installation video regarding mini-splits with technical insufficient practices do a disservice for people that use RUclips to gain this information.
The Mr. Cool DIY set is "DIY" because you do not need a vacuum pump, the line sets are sealed with valves that are opened once the connection is made on each end so it really is plug and play.
I do agree on the electrical box though, those wires are stripped way too far back, also should really be using THWN wire instead of NMC if outdoors as a best practice I feel.
@@rhaebus9785: NM or non-metallic sheathed cable isn’t rated for moist installations or locations for that you should be using UF or underground feeder cable, which is rated for locations with moisture and even direct burial in soil; those notes aside both NM and UF are comprised of THHN rated current carrying conductors and a bare ground with the only differences being jacket material and how they’re jacketed, NM is loose in an exterior jacket while UF is extruded within its jacket material, which is why moisture isn’t the same issue. Water and moisture can actually get between the jacket and conductors and lead to some quite serious issues down the road. Plain old THHN in individual wires is fine so long as it is protected within a conduit as the wire itself offer limited protection. I prefer liquid tight flexible non-metallic conduit or liquid tight flexible metallic conduit depending on whether it’s commercial/industrial or residential between the disconnect and the exterior unit.
I was unaware of the pre-charged or purged lines regarding this brand of mini-split/heat pump but did find the connections odd as typically we always use either brazed or flares connections. I started out decades ago as an electrician and have gotten more and more into HVAC as mini-splits/heat pumps have blown up in the last few years. I’ve installed a lot and so long as they’re sized to need, oversized isn’t good as just like standard AC systems going to big van lead to frozen coils and high start/stop cycles, they’ll tend to keep people quite happy. The only issues to be aware of if planning on using them as heat pumps, assuming they’re so equip, is to make sure they are temperature rated comparable to your area; so,e are only rated to 5°F while others are -22°F which is a big difference in upstate NY. I have installed customer purchased units after pointing this out to just be replacing them within a year as they were counting on them for winter heat. There is also a big difference in efficiency ratings both heating and AC between models/units with some of the big names actually being much less efficient that DIY focused models.
I have a 15’x23’ garage that is uninsulated with cinderblock walls and a steel roof and a 12k BTU unit can keep it cool in the summer and can keep it functionally warm in the winter; I only run it in the winter if I’m going to be out there working and start a 60k BTU salamander heater to get the temp up to 60°F before turning it off and letting the heat pump do its thing. I can maintain a comfortable 62-65 even at 20 degrees outside.
I'm starting to think I oversized my unit. Just ordered a 24K BTU MrCool for my 140 sqft office 🤔🤔
Yes you did
There's a special rung in Hell reserved for traitors, deserters...
and people who install Mini Splits...
WITHOUT vacuuming the line set first!
This little mistake will cost you ALOT down the road. in terms of lost efficiency, SCOP degradation as well as compressor lifespan.
NEVER do this without VACUUMING first. NEVER let the refrigerant without vacuuming. NEVER.
the Mr. Cool line sets are pre-charged with refrigerant, you don't need to vacuum them.
Gee I thought we would see an installation rather than some guy talking.