Absolut hammermässig, wie Sie das erklären, mir wurde manches endlich klar, warum die Sache bei mir nicht geklappt hat. Ich wäre froh, ich könnte so gut englisch sprechen wie Sie, Hut ab.
Very well done! I've watched several 3D printing lithophane tutorials and this is the best one by far. I've printed a handful of flat lithophanes based on another video's advice, but your explanation shows me why this wasn't the best idea. Can't wait to put it into practice!
Danke Michael, du hast mir sehr geholfen.Jetzt ist mir einiges klarer und ich spare Filament, weil ich nicht mehr so viele Testdrucke machen muss. Hast alles gut erklärt und dein Englisch ist übrigens auch sehr gut ;)
Thank you for your video. I found it very comprehensive and enjoyed it very much. The only thing I would like is for the maximum music volume to be reduced to the same level as your oral presentation. Well done and am looking forward to see more of your videos.
Incredible explanation! I would also like to point out that the orientation along the x or y axis matters on beds that move along one or the other. I have mad a few that turned out wavy because the bed was moving back and forth along the y axis, shaking the whole very thin and tall model back and forth as it printed.
Thanx for making this video - there should be a "love" button like on fb! Very informative, personally I always wondered what a histogram was. One thing I'm still not clear about is the physical size of a pixel - how many pixels per .01mm resolution, specifically. I might be sweating it too much, maybe a good rule of thumb would be "If it looks good on my monitor at 100% magnification, it will look good as a lithophane".
aBridgeCalledDOUBT thank you. Basically the size of the pixels correspond to your layer height. Because if you regard one horizontal row of pixels, this must be printable. But if you choose a layer height, that is much smaller than the physical height of that pixel row, you are not introducing more detail. Instead you are only increasing the required print time. On the other hand if you scale your lithophane in a way that the layer height is larger than the pixel row, you loose detail. So with the formula shown in the video you are able to calculate the reasonable size of the lithophane for the given resolution, the resolution required to get best results based on a layer height and lithophane size or the required layer height to retain a given resolution and litho size.
I understand the concept just fine, you made it pretty straightforward. I didn't do a very good job of asking my question, however, the answer I was looking for was so obvious. Look at the pictures properties. I was trying to determine how much detail I would loose with a .01 print resolution. (Actually that was wrong, I'm looking at .1mm.)For example; a pic I am considering to use is 11.59cm/438 pixels tall. That would be .377 pixels/.1mm. According to those numbers I could print at .2mm resolution and not loose any detail. Am I tracking correctly? Thanx
+aBridgeCalledDOUBT correct. So in this case you would print around 3 layers for the height of 1 pixel if you were printing at 0.1mm. So you only need more print time but don't gain any detail.
Excellent!!! I will start practicing with the software, and be ready when the printer arrives ... to see the Chinese when they deign to send it to me. Successes!
For the output from the online tool with the higher vectors per pixel, you could then run the stl through a meshmixer type program and reduce the triangle count. With the proper reduction algorithms many of the flat surfaces made of many triangles can significantly reduce the number of triangles (down to a theoretical 2 triangles for a rectangular surface). YMMV though.
Very good tutorial. I disagree with the upright v. flat conclusion because the human eye can only discern 32 - 64 shades of grey, while still being able to discern millions of colors. At 4 mm thick, and 0.1 mm/layer, your lithophane printed flat should have 40 levels; at 0.2 mm/layer, the eye can see granularity of the grey-scale. Whereas 40 mm @ 0.1 mm/layer is probably a minimum, I think 5 - 6 mm of thickness @ 0.1 mm/layer to achieve decent contrast. I get very good results printing flat with those parameters. The real trick to optimizing contrast is, however, accounting for the exponential loss of light as thickness increases and making thickness proportional to the natural logarithm of the pixel, rather than linearly proportional. The proportionality constant needs to be measured for each filament before one can apply this.
Very well done video. Will be trying these settings in a bit. I have done one other litho and it came out quite well, I did print it upright, but used 100% infill as opposed to zero, and had top/bottom solid at 1 and outline/perimeter also at 1....This was from another litho recommendation....Odd thing is in slicing the same image both ways I can see they look different from a line/layer perspective, but that resulted in the exact same size gcode file. I may print both ways for a compare. Regardless well done on the video.
Truegrit Scott thanks. Well, the trick is, that my settings actually give you 100% infill, too. But the fill pattern is exactly parallel to the perimeters. This way the translucent image is more homogene.
Hi im trying to understand how I can precisely measure and print curved lithophane, so that i can fit it into my curved picture frame. Every time I try it does not come to right size.
Upright vs flat...have you ever tried lightly sanding the surface of a flat lithophane? If you abrade away the edges of those “layer steps” you restore the original gradient. I only tried this because printing vertically I get a lot of excess material...straggly, hairy bits that even if I remove carefull leave more blemishes than all over sanding. I’d used a wire brush (soft and fine), wire wool (again very fine) and soft plastic polishing bonnets on a Dremel. I’m going to try something even finer like TCut...and was even thinking of some sort of high temperature/short time treatment (ie blowtorch!) to try and reflow the surface. You have much more experience than me, and I love the rest of your tutorial, especially the manual contrast adjustment, it’s just this one aspect (vertical vs horizontal) that’s not working for me right now...
Nigel Coxon hi, one suggestion that comes to my mind is, do some test prints to adjust for stringing. I bet you can tweak a bit for better stringing avoidance. Another way is, set the Slicer so that it does not cross outer boundaries. This way there shouldn’t be much stringing. If I can help you out, let me know. About the sanding technique: you remove the steps, which also removes the gradient islands, but you cannot restore image information that hasn’t been printed. But you are fine with this, as the observer doesn’t know what detail has been there in the original picture.
Great video and explanation. One input, the music volume is obnoxious. It doesn't really need the music. Having it at the end would work but I had a hard time hearing you when it was playing in the background while you were talking.
I played around with the infill and layer heights a bit in Simplify3D and while with Zero Percent Infill your process worked out Great for Single Lithophanes either Curved or Flat. However if you were to attempt the same settings say at Lithophanemaker.com for the Lampshades I think you or someone else would run into Bridging Issues when printing the Bottoms of the Lampshades. Though I guess if you were to run a Variable Print with different settings for the Top and Bottom using 100% Rectilinear Infill with Zero Infill for the actual Lithophanes one might come out with a fantastic product. Thanks for your Input and I think I am going to try and amalgamate the latter for an even greater product using your methods instead of my usual. Surprisingly, the time factor wasn't that much different. An extra 4 hours, and with a 72 hour print, who's counting,
+Matt Arnold Hi Matt, It's in the Model settings: you specify a border in Millimeters. If it does not show up, I guess your picture has a black outer rim already so that the black part of your picture is welding to the border of same height...
FlyingMD11Figured out what I was missing - I wasn't changing the model to a positive image. Changed it to positive and everything is fine and working. Thanks for taking the time to respond! Appreciate it! 👍🏻
J Z Standard PLA settings: 60°C I use a single layer brim of 3-5 perimeters to increase the footprint. This brim can be teared off easily after printing.
Hi, I followed your steps and used same size & settings to prepare the file. Simplify 3D estimates the print time to be 166 hours! But I saw your example is 5 hours. What can be the reason for such big difference? Is it the image file's resolution? FYI mine is 2760 x 1840 pixels, 150 dpi. Appreciate to have your expert advice. Thanks!
gsmarcom Hi, actually the image itself doesn't really influence the print time much. I'd guess it's the print speed settings or the speed reduction on the cooling page. What's your layer height and print speed settings?
Found the solution. Info to all audience: if you are using the speed values shown in the video, be informed that I use Millimeter per Second, not per Minute in Simplify3D.
Hi, Thanks for the video. I still have some questions... : - printing verticale gives better results. But I read that results are better if you print with the lithophage parallel to the Y-axis to reduce any vibration effect during Y-move. Do you agree ? - It's quite difficult to read the S3D parameters. Could you confirm your nozzle is 0.4 ? - What is the speed ? what is the number of perimeter/shell layers to be sure to get a 100% infill with 0% regular infill ? - thanks
Well, that orientation issue is relevant for printers with a print bed that moves along the y-axis. There I do agree. If your Printer has a static printbed (movement along z-axis) I recommend to align it 90° to the axis with most swinging or even 45° so as to reduce ringing. For the settings I recommend to check if HD-resolution is selected in the viewer. I confirm using a 0.4mm nozzle and print at the following speed settings: Speed 50mm/s, Outline Underspeed 60%, Solid Infill Underspeed 70% But the speeds also depend on your printer and may require some adjustments. I do use as many perimeters so as to completely fill the lithophane with perimeters rather than infill lines for homogenity. But if you use less make sure you are printing with 100% infill.
Thanks for putting this video. Is there any way to project the picture on a desired 3D shape and then use a slicing software? I know 3dp.rocks has some nice geometrical shapes but I wonder if we can use any geometrical shape?
Thanks for the reply. If I am not wrong, for the infill, you said it should be set to zero? did you mean infill density? I am using Cura so the terminology maybe slightly different. Also, my prints have grain issue that you mentioned. You said that you fixed it by setting the higher value for outline parameter shell. As far as I know, there is no such parameter in Cura or maybe I don't know. Can you explain what it is or if you are familiar with Cura what's its identical parameter in Cura?
MrAmoslemi you should make sure that the model is completely filled. You can do this with regular infill or with my method which I found gives a slightly more even appearance. In Cura this should be achieved by setting the wall width to at least half of the lithophane’s thickness.
Thanks for the response. when you say thickness, do you mean the "thinness layer" thickness or the "thickness" provided on the second row of online tool?
anyone else notice that when they have image set to positive, then press Refresh, the image shown before the litho is actually the negative of the image? the litho looks correct (lightest areas are more recessed) but it threw me off the first time.
Quick ? If you view you lithopane at a right angle to the print does it not mean that you can only divide your Grey scale into the “thickness” of your print say 3mm - base (say 1mm)=2mm divide by your print line thickness say 0.1mm = 20 tones of grey. I do not understand the argument used to print vertical and divide by height of print as you would view at a right angle where your print is still on 2mm thick. Further if you use a standard 0.4 mm nozel and print at 0.4mm then vertically you get 2mm divided 0,4 = 5 Grey scale tones. Is it then not better to print “flat” . Your comments will be appreciated.
Actually not. First, if you print flat, the number of grey scales is dominated by the printed thickness, divided by the layer height. so with a 3 mm lithophane and a true layer height of 0.1mm you can get 30 tones of grey which is in fact quite noticeable low. Second, if you print vertical, the layer height only restricts the pixel resolution on the vertical axis of the picture. But, if you have a picture that is 1000 pixels tall and you have a layer height of 0.1mm, you won't loose any resolution as long as the print is 100mm or more tall. The horizontal resolution is not dominated by the extrusion width, as you are not printing parallel lines, that occur or not (like on needle printers long ago). Your stepper motor resolution is in charge as it just has to lay the outer perimeter a bit more or less out or in and this is in the 0.01mm range. So you can achieve with the given example almost 300 tones of gray which is more than 8 Bit.
FlyingMD11 My apologies to be a pain. The print bead when printing vertically is 0,4 thick. This means you are laying 0,4 mm next to each other and 3mm /0,4 = 7,5. Does this not then mean only 7,5 greyscales as you can only put 7,5 lines next to each other max. The print will be viewed perpendicular to the thin of the print which is the 3mm which can only have 7,5 different thicknesses. You do not view through the 100 mm. What am I missing ?
Well, the minimum thickness is 0,4mm (normally factor 1.2 so 0.48mm), as to say one single perimeter. If you add a second opposing perimeter, it’s 0,96mm minimum thickness but as you can separate those two perimeters in very small steps, which depends on the horizontal resolution of the printer, you can achieve any thickness in steps of 0.01mm by using two perimeters and any sort of infill. Usually infill is squeezed in between perimeters and does not necessarily need to be a factor of 0.4mm
My music is normalized to -3,5 db which is usual for editing. Compared with other videos on YT I don't see much difference. I am sorry for any inconvenience on your playback device...
![[Lithophane tips] 10 Things I Wish I Knew Before Making Lithophane - 3D Printing](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3teKRhzTORY/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Lithophane tips] 10 Things I Wish I Knew Before Making Lithophane - 3D Printing](/img/tr.png)
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Possibly the most detailed and comprehensive explanation about lithophanes.
Thank you for all your effort.
Excellent Tutorial. Been using Photoshop for years, and still learned a lot.
Absolut hammermässig, wie Sie das erklären, mir wurde manches endlich klar, warum die Sache bei mir nicht geklappt hat. Ich wäre froh, ich könnte so gut englisch sprechen wie Sie, Hut ab.
I wish all tutorials were as detailed as yours, thanks a lot for your time to explain everything so thoroughly!
Thanks, the tutorial is too good to understand the basics of lithophane printing
Thank you! This tutorial is one of the best I have seen.
Very well done! I've watched several 3D printing lithophane tutorials and this is the best one by far. I've printed a handful of flat lithophanes based on another video's advice, but your explanation shows me why this wasn't the best idea. Can't wait to put it into practice!
+Daniel Nash thanks ;-)
On my 6th print day 2 with 3d printer, lithophane is my next goal thanks for sharing knowledge
Best video on litho’s I’ve seen. THANK YOU
Danke Michael, du hast mir sehr geholfen.Jetzt ist mir einiges klarer und ich spare Filament, weil ich nicht mehr so viele Testdrucke machen muss. Hast alles gut erklärt und dein Englisch ist übrigens auch sehr gut ;)
Fantastic tutorial, answered all of my questions and a few i hadn't thought of.
I cant see how you have received thumbs down for this.
I've linked this video to a facebook group related to the Creality CR10 3D printer. Thanks for the great tutorial.
Thank you for that, it's where I found it!
A very well thought out tutorial. Thank you.
Thank you for your video. I found it very comprehensive and enjoyed it very much. The only thing I would like is for the maximum music volume to be reduced to the same level as your oral presentation. Well done and am looking forward to see more of your videos.
Hi Michael, I enjoyed your tutorial, I'm glad you like my tool :) Cheers, Mark.
Mark Durbin hi Mark,
Thank you!
Your tool is awesome. I wish more people supported your efforts. :)
really well explained and had no trouble following along thanks for all the extra details, will show you my attempts on the group at some point
2:35ery clear explanation. Thank you for the video.
Great tutorial, thanks for sharing.
Amazing video and great explanation of how it works!
Very nicely done!
Thanks for the video, is exactly what I need.
Nice vídeo, the best howto in RUclips.
Great Tutorial, very helpful. keep up the good work
HI Michael, excellent tutorial. I learned a lot. Thanks
Thank you! Great Tutorial, hopefully I'll get a decent Lithophane at my next try.
excellent tutorial, thank you!
Incredible explanation! I would also like to point out that the orientation along the x or y axis matters on beds that move along one or the other. I have mad a few that turned out wavy because the bed was moving back and forth along the y axis, shaking the whole very thin and tall model back and forth as it printed.
Thanx for making this video - there should be a "love" button like on fb! Very informative, personally I always wondered what a histogram was. One thing I'm still not clear about is the physical size of a pixel - how many pixels per .01mm resolution, specifically. I might be sweating it too much, maybe a good rule of thumb would be "If it looks good on my monitor at 100% magnification, it will look good as a lithophane".
aBridgeCalledDOUBT thank you.
Basically the size of the pixels correspond to your layer height. Because if you regard one horizontal row of pixels, this must be printable. But if you choose a layer height, that is much smaller than the physical height of that pixel row, you are not introducing more detail. Instead you are only increasing the required print time.
On the other hand if you scale your lithophane in a way that the layer height is larger than the pixel row, you loose detail.
So with the formula shown in the video you are able to calculate the reasonable size of the lithophane for the given resolution, the resolution required to get best results based on a layer height and lithophane size or the required layer height to retain a given resolution and litho size.
I understand the concept just fine, you made it pretty straightforward. I didn't do a very good job of asking my question, however, the answer I was looking for was so obvious. Look at the pictures properties. I was trying to determine how much detail I would loose with a .01 print resolution. (Actually that was wrong, I'm looking at .1mm.)For example; a pic I am considering to use is 11.59cm/438 pixels tall. That would be .377 pixels/.1mm. According to those numbers I could print at .2mm resolution and not loose any detail. Am I tracking correctly? Thanx
+aBridgeCalledDOUBT correct. So in this case you would print around 3 layers for the height of 1 pixel if you were printing at 0.1mm. So you only need more print time but don't gain any detail.
Very well done, thank you for your time.
Excellent!!!
I will start practicing with the software, and be ready when the printer arrives ... to see the Chinese when they deign to send it to me.
Successes!
For the output from the online tool with the higher vectors per pixel, you could then run the stl through a meshmixer type program and reduce the triangle count. With the proper reduction algorithms many of the flat surfaces made of many triangles can significantly reduce the number of triangles (down to a theoretical 2 triangles for a rectangular surface). YMMV though.
Excellent video..Thank you.
Sehr schön erklärt. Danke.
Well done, thanks.
Very nicely done. Thank you very much!
I learn a lot with me video that you make, thanks a lot! 😊😊
Very good tutorial. I disagree with the upright v. flat conclusion because the human eye can only discern 32 - 64 shades of grey, while still being able to discern millions of colors. At 4 mm thick, and 0.1 mm/layer, your lithophane printed flat should have 40 levels; at 0.2 mm/layer, the eye can see granularity of the grey-scale. Whereas 40 mm @ 0.1 mm/layer is probably a minimum, I think 5 - 6 mm of thickness @ 0.1 mm/layer to achieve decent contrast. I get very good results printing flat with those parameters. The real trick to optimizing contrast is, however, accounting for the exponential loss of light as thickness increases and making thickness proportional to the natural logarithm of the pixel, rather than linearly proportional. The proportionality constant needs to be measured for each filament before one can apply this.
Excellent!
Great video! Thanks FlyingMD11.
very helpful, thank you!
Very well done video. Will be trying these settings in a bit. I have done one other litho and it came out quite well, I did print it upright, but used 100% infill as opposed to zero, and had top/bottom solid at 1 and outline/perimeter also at 1....This was from another litho recommendation....Odd thing is in slicing the same image both ways I can see they look different from a line/layer perspective, but that resulted in the exact same size gcode file. I may print both ways for a compare. Regardless well done on the video.
Truegrit Scott thanks.
Well, the trick is, that my settings actually give you 100% infill, too. But the fill pattern is exactly parallel to the perimeters.
This way the translucent image is more homogene.
Very good video thy.
Fantastic Thank You
Great job! Thanks
Great video, thank's
GIMP is a nice open source image editor program
Lyle Walsh correct. As I said: I am using PS as I already have it.
Awesome Sauce!!!!
Hi im trying to understand how I can precisely measure and print curved lithophane, so that i can fit it into my curved picture frame. Every time I try it does not come to right size.
I get at least one line in my lithophanes any idea what could be causing it
Upright vs flat...have you ever tried lightly sanding the surface of a flat lithophane? If you abrade away the edges of those “layer steps” you restore the original gradient.
I only tried this because printing vertically I get a lot of excess material...straggly, hairy bits that even if I remove carefull leave more blemishes than all over sanding.
I’d used a wire brush (soft and fine), wire wool (again very fine) and soft plastic polishing bonnets on a Dremel. I’m going to try something even finer like TCut...and was even thinking of some sort of high temperature/short time treatment (ie blowtorch!) to try and reflow the surface.
You have much more experience than me, and I love the rest of your tutorial, especially the manual contrast adjustment, it’s just this one aspect (vertical vs horizontal) that’s not working for me right now...
Nigel Coxon hi, one suggestion that comes to my mind is, do some test prints to adjust for stringing. I bet you can tweak a bit for better stringing avoidance.
Another way is, set the Slicer so that it does not cross outer boundaries. This way there shouldn’t be much stringing.
If I can help you out, let me know.
About the sanding technique: you remove the steps, which also removes the gradient islands, but you cannot restore image information that hasn’t been printed. But you are fine with this, as the observer doesn’t know what detail has been there in the original picture.
I’m still using Cura and getting used to where all the settings are...thanks for replying, I’ll see if I can find that outer boundary or equivalent.
@@Daft_Ideas Did you ever find the outer boundary equivalent?
@@scottfarrell1506 nope , never did...
you can do this in krita its free or photoshop online as well
Great video and explanation. One input, the music volume is obnoxious. It doesn't really need the music. Having it at the end would work but I had a hard time hearing you when it was playing in the background while you were talking.
I played around with the infill and layer heights a bit in Simplify3D and while with Zero Percent Infill your process worked out Great for Single Lithophanes either Curved or Flat. However if you were to attempt the same settings say at Lithophanemaker.com for the Lampshades I think you or someone else would run into Bridging Issues when printing the Bottoms of the Lampshades. Though I guess if you were to run a Variable Print with different settings for the Top and Bottom using 100% Rectilinear Infill with Zero Infill for the actual Lithophanes one might come out with a fantastic product. Thanks for your Input and I think I am going to try and amalgamate the latter for an even greater product using your methods instead of my usual. Surprisingly, the time factor wasn't that much different. An extra 4 hours, and with a 72 hour print, who's counting,
Great video - but how did you make a border around your image prior to downloading the STL? I can't seem to create a border like that?
+Matt Arnold Hi Matt,
It's in the Model settings: you specify a border in Millimeters. If it does not show up, I guess your picture has a black outer rim already so that the black part of your picture is welding to the border of same height...
FlyingMD11Figured out what I was missing - I wasn't changing the model to a positive image. Changed it to positive and everything is fine and working. Thanks for taking the time to respond! Appreciate it! 👍🏻
+Matt Arnold you are welcome.
Thank you!!!
What’s your heated bed settings? Also what do you use to get a better stick?
J Z Standard PLA settings: 60°C
I use a single layer brim of 3-5 perimeters to increase the footprint. This brim can be teared off easily after printing.
great
Hi, I followed your steps and used same size & settings to prepare the file. Simplify 3D estimates the print time to be 166 hours! But I saw your example is 5 hours. What can be the reason for such big difference? Is it the image file's resolution? FYI mine is 2760 x 1840 pixels, 150 dpi. Appreciate to have your expert advice. Thanks!
gsmarcom Hi,
actually the image itself doesn't really influence the print time much.
I'd guess it's the print speed settings or the speed reduction on the cooling page.
What's your layer height and print speed settings?
thanks for your reply. my layer height 0.1mm, print speed 50 mms
Mmh, that's strange.
If you like you could export the S3D-profile and send it by email.
I'll have a look on it. I guess there's something odd...
sure thanks so much for your help!
Found the solution.
Info to all audience: if you are using the speed values shown in the video, be informed that I use Millimeter per Second, not per Minute in Simplify3D.
Hi, Thanks for the video.
I still have some questions... :
- printing verticale gives better results. But I read that results are better if you print with the lithophage parallel to the Y-axis to reduce any vibration effect during Y-move. Do you agree ?
- It's quite difficult to read the S3D parameters. Could you confirm your nozzle is 0.4 ?
- What is the speed ? what is the number of perimeter/shell layers to be sure to get a 100% infill with 0% regular infill ?
- thanks
Well, that orientation issue is relevant for printers with a print bed that moves along the y-axis. There I do agree. If your Printer has a static printbed (movement along z-axis) I recommend to align it 90° to the axis with most swinging or even 45° so as to reduce ringing.
For the settings I recommend to check if HD-resolution is selected in the viewer.
I confirm using a 0.4mm nozzle and print at the following speed settings:
Speed 50mm/s, Outline Underspeed 60%, Solid Infill Underspeed 70%
But the speeds also depend on your printer and may require some adjustments.
I do use as many perimeters so as to completely fill the lithophane with perimeters rather than infill lines for homogenity. But if you use less make sure you are printing with 100% infill.
Thanks
Thanks for putting this video. Is there any way to project the picture on a desired 3D shape and then use a slicing software? I know 3dp.rocks has some nice geometrical shapes but I wonder if we can use any geometrical shape?
MrAmoslemi Hi, I am presently not aware of such a tool nor do I have an idea how to quickly solve this.. Sorry.
Thanks for the reply. If I am not wrong, for the infill, you said it should be set to zero? did you mean infill density? I am using Cura so the terminology maybe slightly different. Also, my prints have grain issue that you mentioned. You said that you fixed it by setting the higher value for outline parameter shell. As far as I know, there is no such parameter in Cura or maybe I don't know. Can you explain what it is or if you are familiar with Cura what's its identical parameter in Cura?
MrAmoslemi you should make sure that the model is completely filled. You can do this with regular infill or with my method which I found gives a slightly more even appearance.
In Cura this should be achieved by setting the wall width to at least half of the lithophane’s thickness.
Thanks for the response. when you say thickness, do you mean the "thinness layer" thickness or the "thickness" provided on the second row of online tool?
MrAmoslemi I mean the thickness value in the tool (2nd row)
anyone else notice that when they have image set to positive, then press Refresh, the image shown before the litho is actually the negative of the image? the litho looks correct (lightest areas are more recessed) but it threw me off the first time.
Echt gutes Video, nur wirklich schade das Du es nicht auch in deutsch hast. Gerade die speziellen Erklärungen hätten mich sehr interessiert.
+somicha2000 Danke. Deutsche Tonspur ist schon geplant, nur komme ich aktuell nicht dazu.
Du kannst auch Untertitel verwenden (^.^)...
You should post this great video in the Facebook Lithophanes group. facebook.com/groups/Lithophanes
Quick ? If you view you lithopane at a right angle to the print does it not mean that you can only divide your Grey scale into the “thickness” of your print say 3mm - base (say 1mm)=2mm divide by your print line thickness say 0.1mm = 20 tones of grey. I do not understand the argument used to print vertical and divide by height of print as you would view at a right angle where your print is still on 2mm thick. Further if you use a standard 0.4 mm nozel and print at 0.4mm then vertically you get 2mm divided 0,4 = 5 Grey scale tones. Is it then not better to print “flat” . Your comments will be appreciated.
Actually not.
First, if you print flat, the number of grey scales is dominated by the printed thickness, divided by the layer height. so with a 3 mm lithophane and a true layer height of 0.1mm you can get 30 tones of grey which is in fact quite noticeable low.
Second, if you print vertical, the layer height only restricts the pixel resolution on the vertical axis of the picture. But, if you have a picture that is 1000 pixels tall and you have a layer height of 0.1mm, you won't loose any resolution as long as the print is 100mm or more tall.
The horizontal resolution is not dominated by the extrusion width, as you are not printing parallel lines, that occur or not (like on needle printers long ago). Your stepper motor resolution is in charge as it just has to lay the outer perimeter a bit more or less out or in and this is in the 0.01mm range. So you can achieve with the given example almost 300 tones of gray which is more than 8 Bit.
FlyingMD11 My apologies to be a pain. The print bead when printing vertically is 0,4 thick. This means you are laying 0,4 mm next to each other and 3mm /0,4 = 7,5. Does this not then mean only 7,5 greyscales as you can only put 7,5 lines next to each other max. The print will be viewed perpendicular to the thin of the print which is the 3mm which can only have 7,5 different thicknesses. You do not view through the 100 mm. What am I missing ?
Well, the minimum thickness is 0,4mm (normally factor 1.2 so 0.48mm), as to say one single perimeter. If you add a second opposing perimeter, it’s 0,96mm minimum thickness but as you can separate those two perimeters in very small steps, which depends on the horizontal resolution of the printer, you can achieve any thickness in steps of 0.01mm by using two perimeters and any sort of infill.
Usually infill is squeezed in between perimeters and does not necessarily need to be a factor of 0.4mm
FlyingMD11 Does this not still not only give you a maximum of 7,5 steps though ?
These two perimeters can be apart by 0, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03,... ,... , 2.98, 2.99, 3.00mm
That’s the horizontal resolution.
Du kannst auch Untertitel verwenden (^.^)...
+somicha2000 ich weiß 😜
Macht aber genauso viel Arbeit und ist zum Verfolgen des Videos nicht so schön.
Your music is a 100 times too loud
My music is normalized to -3,5 db which is usual for editing.
Compared with other videos on YT I don't see much difference.
I am sorry for any inconvenience on your playback device...
Im on studio speakers your video jumped out of my speakers:) Thanks for the video!
Please don't do the music. It is not necessary for this kind of tutorial and most of the time it is distracting.