Nice! I haven't seen it close up since the mid seventies. We, Greg Davis, and myself did it shortly after Earl Wiggins and Co. We went to do it and didn't have enough hexes so went back to Moab to borrow some more pro. We climbed the then sharp edged crack to the top. Two pitches plus and rapped off. Only hexes, no crack gloves, just shitty tape jobs rolling up in the wingate. No bolts; had to build the anchors. Good memories of a really fun route. I climbed some with Earl here in the Tetons in the eighties and we both thought it was the purest crack we'd done.
Having climbed this some 25 years ago, it is sobering to see how blown out the crack has become from so many climbers on soft rock. For those who aren’t climbers and may not understand my comment, look at the color difference between the outside wall and the lip and interior of the crack. The pale color of the lip and interior of the crack demonstrates that each passage wears away a little of the rock.
I did a full moon w/headlamp ascent about 20 years ago. The start getting onto the pedestal was sketch (lamps back the were weak AF) because it was so hard to see. But once into the crack proper, with the moon behind me it was magic.
Wow, what a beautiful line! Insane. I loved how calm you were after all of that sustained crack climbing when you just said "Yeah, you can take". Personally I wouldn't have bumped gear that much, it looks like you are on a single point of failure at times when the gear is that spread out, and cams have slipped out in sandstone. Look up Göran Kropp. Though I'm not here to safety-shame you! Each to their own comfort level, and oyu fucking SENT IT! :D Love these POV-videos btw! Started doing some of my own, but Swedish cranite doesn't really offer this sort of splitter cracks!
“How faffy did you find the start?” Noah: “….yes….” The classic “I’ll just place this for the move then back clean.” Way to stick with it for the send!
Nice! I haven't seen it close up since the mid seventies. We, Greg Davis, and myself did it shortly after Earl Wiggins and Co. We went to do it and didn't have enough hexes so went back to Moab to borrow some more pro. We climbed the then sharp edged crack to the top. Two pitches plus and rapped off. Only hexes, no crack gloves, just shitty tape jobs rolling up in the wingate. No bolts; had to build the anchors. Good memories of a really fun route. I climbed some with Earl here in the Tetons in the eighties and we both thought it was the purest crack we'd done.
Having climbed this some 25 years ago, it is sobering to see how blown out the crack has become from so many climbers on soft rock. For those who aren’t climbers and may not understand my comment, look at the color difference between the outside wall and the lip and interior of the crack. The pale color of the lip and interior of the crack demonstrates that each passage wears away a little of the rock.
Eventually it'll be the best fist crack in the world.
Now it's more ergonomic 🤣
One day these amazing sandstone lines will be gone. But climbing them is so bloody fun I don’t know what to think about it
I did a full moon w/headlamp ascent about 20 years ago. The start getting onto the pedestal was sketch (lamps back the were weak AF) because it was so hard to see. But once into the crack proper, with the moon behind me it was magic.
I climbed this 33 years ago when the crack actually had sharp edges that kind of hurt. It's unsettling to see what it looks like now.
Just left the Creek yesterday. Nice climb!
Wow, what a beautiful line! Insane.
I loved how calm you were after all of that sustained crack climbing when you just said "Yeah, you can take".
Personally I wouldn't have bumped gear that much, it looks like you are on a single point of failure at times when the gear is that spread out, and cams have slipped out in sandstone. Look up Göran Kropp. Though I'm not here to safety-shame you! Each to their own comfort level, and oyu fucking SENT IT! :D
Love these POV-videos btw! Started doing some of my own, but Swedish cranite doesn't really offer this sort of splitter cracks!
Great climbing noah! -from a guy who climbs!
That was wild
“How faffy did you find the start?”
Noah: “….yes….”
The classic “I’ll just place this for the move then back clean.”
Way to stick with it for the send!
Bit of an adrenaline dump on the first 20' eh?