Awesome!!!! Watched the video a few times to be sure I got the steps down. This video also showed me which tools I needed to get first. If this little 63 year old lady can do it, you can too! Thanks Park Tool!
Wonderful! The details make all the difference and you explained it beautifully. I was doing 80% of that and having no luck. After the video, I nailed it on the first try!
Thanks. I have the drop bar levers. I could not push the fluid back up. It did go back and forth when the lever was worked. And it did flow from reservoir to calliper. Put it back together and it now works.
Awesome video. I have Bravvos brakes on my Kona, and I have noticed no video covering their bleed, but noticed that the Tektro Flat bar levers hare the same, and the calipet, though a copy of Shimano MT-200's, uses the same bleed port design. Now I can get my spongy brakes firmer
great tutorials latley, calm and super understandable. could you do tutorials about suspension fork services ? for example the rockshox yari. i know there are plenty of videos but i really like your style
Im maintaining an ebike fleet and theyve got nutt brakes installed. Tektro methods worked the best for me so far but always wonder how i should set the reach on the lever before the bleed. Anyone have that quick answer? Thanks!
What do I do with the brake fluid? Can I reuse it later if it looks clean? Or should I just dispose of it? And if I can reuse it can I put it back in the original container with new mineral oil?
I'm wondering if I can still use the 10mm bleed blocks when bleeding TRP brakes that use a 2.3mm thick rotor? That's 0.5mm thicker than standard rotors and I wonder if that needs to be accounted for in the bleed block?
Dear Calvin, saw your broadcast with John Canning at GCN today which I thought was great, thank you. Do you still run the bike mechanic courses? Thanks again Alan Cable UK.
This is a great vid, just like your tools. 👏Thank you! Im ordering the brake bleed kit to add to my park tool arsenal right now, as well as the bike stand. Subbed. 🤗🤘
I did the TRP official way by pushing fluid from caliper to drip tube at lever, feels great for a little then loses brake feeling shortly after... not sure if it's me or an issue with the hose, caliper or lever
Would you please show us how to bleed the Tektro TKD 32 hydraulic disc brake.. it is the brake used the Decathlon Btwin Riverside 900 and the Decathlon Btwin Riverside 920
Hey if you have an air locked caliper because the piston fell out while cleaning the caliper and then try to bleed your line but the syringe wont budge what should you do
Looks simple enough to do at home. The only time it does look difficult is if you don't have the right tools or your too impatient to do the job correctly.
Please could I ask - what are the blue plastic clips half way along the tubes (from the syringes)? They aren’t used in the process, in this video. My new bleed kit has them too and I don’t know what they are for. Thank you.
i have those Tektro brakes but I just cant get the rear brakes feel as firm as the front brakes. Ive alreade bled them 4 times trying to get every little airbubble out and I also dont see any leak in the system …. :(
last summer, I did a bleeding to my tektro hydraulic brakes with baby oil (mineral oil) and ... guess what !! ... it is working until now. but you should do it in the correct way.
This is how Tektro suggests their brakes be bleed. There are many brakes that the fluid is pushed from the caliper to the lever. Some even pull it to the lever. There is the chance that some dirty fluid goes through the system that way but it has not been an issue in Tektro or Shimano systems.
Hi guys, I bleed brakes, do you need to replace the pads as well as I bleed rear brake (tektro twin piston) and it feels very spongy and lost all the power. Any suggestions what to do?
Model with bleed screw and with no nipple always let oil out. Im never satisfied with my lever distance with grip. i have to ajust lever to far for right feel. Why?
What adapter is used at 06:40? I thought I would need a M7 thread, since it is in a kit I wanted to buy online.. can some help me please before I destroy my brakes..
There can be buildup of grime on the piston. That grime will get hard and will effect a pistons ability to move freely. Exercise the piston back and forth or advancing the pistons and cleaning can help remove that band of grime.
Took my bike to get hydraulic bleed in halfords.. They recommended new brakes because they couldn't release the air.. Fooking AMATEURS... thank you for video 👍
What if you do this process, appear to have no bubbles, but the level does not pull firm? It pulls easily to the grip. Any tips? I'm running a long line on a cargo bike for the rear brake. TY
There has to be some air in that system somewhere. With that long of a system, air can hide in some interesting places. Give it another try and see what happens.
Some manufacturers want one syringe clamped shut when the opposite syringe pulls a vacuum. Tektro is not one of them, but the clamps are there should a manufacturer recommned them.
I bought your kit, and when I put both of my bolts back in to hold the oil in the lever is still super spongy, I probably bled my brakes 5 times today, and no better results. Any help on this would be appreciated. I have tektro HDM 275
@@parktool the brake pads are only about a month old, they have plenty of material left. but even with the bleed block in the lever will go all the way to the bars
If the pads are close to the rotor before pressing the lever, then it's air. Do this: Store bike upright so air will make it's way to the lever eventually. This makes easier to get air out later. Now get air out of system by leaving one end sealed and attaching a syringe with a small amount of fluid on the other end. Use alternating presses and pulls on the syringe to get bubbles out. Once no more bubbles are coming into the syringe, press the plunger firmly, remove syringe with the port facing up and level. Seal off that port and repeat on the other end. If you do this in hot weather the fluid may boil (vacuums lower BP), so do at room temp. To get firmer brakes than what the bleed block can do you need to make a thinner bleed block out of credit cards or something or just fill up the system from the lever with the pads installed then force the rotor in there. If the system is so full that you can't install the wheel just unscrew the port at the lever slowly until a couple drops worth of fluid push out from the pressure in the line. I can bleed any brand brake perfectly like this.
@@OptimusSatanas and I guess manners and common decency aren't yours. You don't push air back in when pushing and pulling the liquid back and forth. Cheerio.
@@jgogl9791 Considering it was the first push, one bubble is not ideal but you are literally doing the process to remove bubbles. While not ideal it doesnt really mean anything if you follow the steps immediately after.
When I unscrew either of the syringes, a sizable gush of oil spurts out and air gets in. Any way to prevent that from happening? In the video I see that there is a bunch of oil spillage too, but the bleed seems unaffected. The model is Orion 4p,..starting to regret not purchasing Shimano instead.
If some pressure is in the system from the syringe there will be some that comes out once the syringe is removed. As long as the system does not draw air back into the system it will not be effected.
@@parktool I will try pulling a greater vacuum before disconnecting in order to relieve the pressure. I just don't want to accidentally tear the bladder or something. It definitely is drawing air back in, all that oil has to come from somewhere.
I don't understand why you need to push and pull. Can't you leave the plunger out of the lever syringe, push the fluid from the caliper up to the lever until the bubbles stop, close off the caliper, give the lever a few pulls, no bubbles, done.
It is not uncommon for air to be trapped in the caliper and lever porting that require a few passes of fluid. Hence this technique to be thorough in most cases. There are of course a few roads leading to Hydraulic Rome, to borrow and twist a phrase. But all must "Remove air and bad fluid, and replace with good fluid and no air".
My bike only had the bleed screw which is a pain since oil comes flowing out when you undo screw and need to put in syringe and vice versa. Such a horrible design. All brakes should have nipple with separate screw to open/close flow design in the future. .
Some tips: 1. Don't depress the top plunger all the way down, otherwise you'll just reintroduce air into the system. 2. Pull back on the top plunger slightly and let it sit for 5-10 minutes to allow the bubbles to flow through the system to the top. 3. Always use a bleed block, otherwise you may overfill the system causing one or both pistons to rub against the rotor. 4. Never do this process with the bike upside down, and don't depress the lever with the wheel off of the bike or with the bleed ports open. 5. Press the top plunger down ever so slightly before removing the bottom plunger. Yes, this does cause a bit of leakage, but I've had issues with negative pressure when removing the bottom plunger, which ends up pulling air into the system and ruining the bleed. Just clean up with ethanol afterwards. 6. If you have a large supply of mineral oil, you can skip the top plunger altogether and just use a collection cup instead. 7. Don't use the cheapest bleed kit on Amazon. If the fittings aren't tight, you're not going to get a good result. 8. Unless you plan on bleeding your brakes multiple times a year, don't buy Park Tool's $150 bleed kit. At that price point you might as well pay your LBS for the service as part of a tune-up, and avoid the hassle altogether.
Good video, too much going on though. Use the KISS method Keep it short and simple. It would be easier to follow if you used one type of nipple set up at a time.
I have worked on cars and motorcycles my whole life and I struggle to understand why this method is used on bikes, I recently helped friend bleed his sram brakes after it was done by a bike shop and they were still spongy he was told that is the way they are which is bullshit. Can anyone tell me why bike mechanics do it bottom up, you should never push air up the pipe and past the piston as the cup will always hold a bubble.and bleeding brakes off the bike makes no sense at all. There is only one video on you tube that shows it being done correctly that l have found...very strange.
Bike brakes are much more effected by small bubbles than an automotive application. The pressure is also boosted in automotive so this all adds up to every tiny air bubble mattering in a bicycle system. Each manufacturer has a procedure for their specific brake based on their experience and getting air bubbles out of the corners and from behind pistons, which can be difficult. Not every brake responds the same which makes the process a bit more complex than in the automotive world as well.
@@parktool This is why I commented, I very much doubt that bike brakes are more complex than motorcycle brakes there are multiple lines, link hoses and dual six spot calipers to contend with and no they are not boosted.You are absolutely correct about small bubbles causing issues, an ABS system on a motorcycle will not work correctly with even the smallest amount of air in the system as it does not modulate correctly. In order to remove all the air a large volume of fluid must be pumped through the system via a restriction on the bleed,the pressure created by pumping the lever is what evacuates the tiny bubbles a syringe will not create the same pressure or vacuum pending how it is used.Thank you for you reply I do appreciate your content.
@@davenorman8251 Also consider how much smaller things are and how much more precise things need to be. And that motorcycle brakes and automotive brakes rub very consistently where bike brakes are not to rub the rotor at all. As you bleed more bicycle brakes this will all make more sense.
@@parktool Yes thank you I fully intend on teaching more mtb riders the right way to bleed their brakes. Are you aware that Magura use 12mm pistons for both mx and mtb master cylinders the only difference being the stroke and lever design...I'll leave that little nugget of info out there for the frankenbrake builders....Like I said in the first post I have been doing this shit my entire life.....enough said.
Music really making me feel like I'm doing open heart surgery on a CEO who knows the passcode to the safe containing the antidote for my husband's lethal poisoning.
Awesome!!!! Watched the video a few times to be sure I got the steps down. This video also showed me which tools I needed to get first. If this little 63 year old lady can do it, you can too! Thanks Park Tool!
Why can't all 'how to' videos be this clear & helpful? Thanks very much!!!!!!!!!
Wonderful! The details make all the difference and you explained it beautifully. I was doing 80% of that and having no luck. After the video, I nailed it on the first try!
Thanks.
I have the drop bar levers.
I could not push the fluid back up.
It did go back and forth when the lever was worked.
And it did flow from reservoir to calliper.
Put it back together and it now works.
Awesome video. I have Bravvos brakes on my Kona, and I have noticed no video covering their bleed, but noticed that the Tektro Flat bar levers hare the same, and the calipet, though a copy of Shimano MT-200's, uses the same bleed port design. Now I can get my spongy brakes firmer
I should add, the Torx style bleed port and not the nipple style
Always love the great info just wish I could afford your complete tool kit lol
Same
You guys are great
Great tools
Great videos
Great help
👍👏
Sir your information regarding MTB is really magnificent which I really admire
great tutorials latley, calm and super understandable.
could you do tutorials about suspension fork services ?
for example the rockshox yari.
i know there are plenty of videos but i really like your style
So helpful! This is why I love Park Tool 👊
Good video. I use a pencil to make an alignment mark on the bars before I rotate the lever. Really helps to get it back where it was.
Just what I needed for my Tektro Orion's! 😎
Great info as always! The music is an interesting choice...but it's a high quality video!
i cannot stress enough the importance of this step! 4:41
Thanks a lot, it helps greatly!
What an excellent video. Thank you!
Im maintaining an ebike fleet and theyve got nutt brakes installed. Tektro methods worked the best for me so far but always wonder how i should set the reach on the lever before the bleed. Anyone have that quick answer? Thanks!
thank you for a good info
Been waiting for this one 🥳
You don't mention it specifically but it looks like you use the 10mm bleed blocks for TRP brakes. Is that correct?
Yes, those were 10mm.
@@parktool Right on. Thanks.
The TRP T4 bleed procedure is much less tedious than the Sram brakes I had before.
Thank you for this!
Great demonstration 👍🔧
What do I do with the brake fluid? Can I reuse it later if it looks clean? Or should I just dispose of it? And if I can reuse it can I put it back in the original container with new mineral oil?
I'm wondering if I can still use the 10mm bleed blocks when bleeding TRP brakes that use a 2.3mm thick rotor? That's 0.5mm thicker than standard rotors and I wonder if that needs to be accounted for in the bleed block?
Life saver...thank you
Dear Calvin, saw your broadcast with John Canning at GCN today which I thought was great, thank you. Do you still run the bike mechanic courses? Thanks again Alan Cable UK.
Nice one!👍
This is a great vid, just like your tools. 👏Thank you! Im ordering the brake bleed kit to add to my park tool arsenal right now, as well as the bike stand. Subbed. 🤗🤘
One tip. Always buy brakes with bleed niples. Its the only right way manufacturers should build it.
The video says the green adapter has an M5 thread (3:53) but the BKM-1 and BKM-1.2 manuals say it has an M6 thread. Which is it?
Another information overload video
Good job Greg
I did the TRP official way by pushing fluid from caliper to drip tube at lever, feels great for a little then loses brake feeling shortly after... not sure if it's me or an issue with the hose, caliper or lever
Would you please show us how to bleed the Tektro TKD 32 hydraulic disc brake.. it is the brake used the Decathlon Btwin Riverside 900 and the Decathlon Btwin Riverside 920
never been able to figure out how you attach the tubing to the bleedport and get fluid to push through... its impossible
Bonjour , vidéo très utile , Thank you ✌
Hey if you have an air locked caliper because the piston fell out while cleaning the caliper and then try to bleed your line but the syringe wont budge what should you do
Can u make video for kamros hydrolic break
Looks simple enough to do at home. The only time it does look difficult is if you don't have the right tools or your too impatient to do the job correctly.
brilliant.
Please could I ask - what are the blue plastic clips half way along the tubes (from the syringes)? They aren’t used in the process, in this video. My new bleed kit has them too and I don’t know what they are for. Thank you.
Those are hose clips. Some bleeds require those to be used. The crimp the hose and prevent fluid from passing through them.
these tools and very good
i have those Tektro brakes but I just cant get the rear brakes feel as firm as the front brakes. Ive alreade bled them 4 times trying to get every little airbubble out and I also dont see any leak in the system …. :(
Same but it's my fronts that are soft, which is werid. Thinking it's just Tektro not being great
last summer, I did a bleeding to my tektro hydraulic brakes with baby oil (mineral oil) and ... guess what !! ... it is working until now.
but you should do it in the correct way.
How difficult was it to extract the oil from the babies?
@@smokedsalmon3907 stupid question
Do they still work?
Why would you push new fluid in from the caliper versus from the brake lever? I've only ever seen new fluid pushed in from the levers. Does it matter?
This is how Tektro suggests their brakes be bleed. There are many brakes that the fluid is pushed from the caliper to the lever. Some even pull it to the lever. There is the chance that some dirty fluid goes through the system that way but it has not been an issue in Tektro or Shimano systems.
I always assumed because air wants to go ipwards
@@official_phoon5593 same. It seems like it would be easier to get all the air out of the system if you push from the caliper and draw from the lever.
Thanks!
Hi guys,
I bleed brakes, do you need to replace the pads as well as I bleed rear brake (tektro twin piston) and it feels very spongy and lost all the power. Any suggestions what to do?
Can you do a video on how to bleed Hayes brakes. Thanks!
Model with bleed screw and with no nipple always let oil out. Im never satisfied with my lever distance with grip. i have to ajust lever to far for right feel. Why?
What adapter is used at 06:40? I thought I would need a M7 thread, since it is in a kit I wanted to buy online.. can some help me please before I destroy my brakes..
Did you ever get one? If so what model? Thanks
Does it matter if I do it like the Shimano way?
What happens when a brake piston is stuck? I took mine to a shop because I couldn’t get one of the pistons to depress
There can be buildup of grime on the piston. That grime will get hard and will effect a pistons ability to move freely. Exercise the piston back and forth or advancing the pistons and cleaning can help remove that band of grime.
Took my bike to get hydraulic bleed in halfords.. They recommended new brakes because they couldn't release the air.. Fooking AMATEURS... thank you for video 👍
why tf would u go halfords
What if you do this process, appear to have no bubbles, but the level does not pull firm? It pulls easily to the grip. Any tips? I'm running a long line on a cargo bike for the rear brake. TY
There has to be some air in that system somewhere. With that long of a system, air can hide in some interesting places. Give it another try and see what happens.
I get getter results with the gravity method
thank you!
Thx 👍
Is there a way to do this without a 2nd syringe, perhaps a cup at the top?
You can do this with a cup if you would like.
What is the purpose of having that tubing clamp for the syringes? Can someone please explain, thanks.
Some manufacturers want one syringe clamped shut when the opposite syringe pulls a vacuum. Tektro is not one of them, but the clamps are there should a manufacturer recommned them.
I bought your kit, and when I put both of my bolts back in to hold the oil in the lever is still super spongy, I probably bled my brakes 5 times today, and no better results. Any help on this would be appreciated. I have tektro HDM 275
What is the condition of the brake pads? If the pads are very work the brake system may use up most of the fluid to advance the pistons.
@@parktool the brake pads are only about a month old, they have plenty of material left. but even with the bleed block in the lever will go all the way to the bars
official_ramen you either have a fluid leak or air in the system. You will only get a firm lever once you’ve eliminated both of these problems.
If the pads are close to the rotor before pressing the lever, then it's air. Do this: Store bike upright so air will make it's way to the lever eventually. This makes easier to get air out later. Now get air out of system by leaving one end sealed and attaching a syringe with a small amount of fluid on the other end. Use alternating presses and pulls on the syringe to get bubbles out. Once no more bubbles are coming into the syringe, press the plunger firmly, remove syringe with the port facing up and level. Seal off that port and repeat on the other end. If you do this in hot weather the fluid may boil (vacuums lower BP), so do at room temp. To get firmer brakes than what the bleed block can do you need to make a thinner bleed block out of credit cards or something or just fill up the system from the lever with the pads installed then force the rotor in there. If the system is so full that you can't install the wheel just unscrew the port at the lever slowly until a couple drops worth of fluid push out from the pressure in the line. I can bleed any brand brake perfectly like this.
I've got the same problem and they leak from brake lever
7:51 why is air being pumped back in? I can see an air bubble in the top syringe tubing clearly being pushed back into the system.
I guess comprehension isnt your best attribute. He was pushing fluid back and forth to cause bubbles to rise out of the lines.
@@OptimusSatanas and I guess manners and common decency aren't yours.
You don't push air back in when pushing and pulling the liquid back and forth. Cheerio.
@@jgogl9791 Considering it was the first push, one bubble is not ideal but you are literally doing the process to remove bubbles. While not ideal it doesnt really mean anything if you follow the steps immediately after.
@@jgogl9791 Cry about my incredibly mild insult more, it makes you look fragile.
Cue Fight Club music.
Aye-AYE, SIR!
0:30 seth's bike hacks using baby oil as brake fluid
When I unscrew either of the syringes, a sizable gush of oil spurts out and air gets in. Any way to prevent that from happening? In the video I see that there is a bunch of oil spillage too, but the bleed seems unaffected. The model is Orion 4p,..starting to regret not purchasing Shimano instead.
If some pressure is in the system from the syringe there will be some that comes out once the syringe is removed. As long as the system does not draw air back into the system it will not be effected.
@@parktool I will try pulling a greater vacuum before disconnecting in order to relieve the pressure. I just don't want to accidentally tear the bladder or something. It definitely is drawing air back in, all that oil has to come from somewhere.
@@parktool How much vacuum is safe? I found that pulling a vacuum helped a lot, but I don’t want to damage anything.
want to buy bleed kit
Where can I get this particular bike repair stand?
Check out parktool.com :)
Calvin rules
May I post your videos on another website for teaching purposes? will credit park tool
No..
is tektro good vs shimano mt200?
Tektro makes a great brake.
I have a problem! Please help me ,when i brake my brake pedal isn't going back! I have v-brake.
This can happen if your cable or housing is kinked. Check that the cable can move freely through the housing.
I don't understand why you need to push and pull. Can't you leave the plunger out of the lever syringe, push the fluid from the caliper up to the lever until the bubbles stop, close off the caliper, give the lever a few pulls, no bubbles, done.
It is not uncommon for air to be trapped in the caliper and lever porting that require a few passes of fluid. Hence this technique to be thorough in most cases.
There are of course a few roads leading to Hydraulic Rome, to borrow and twist a phrase. But all must "Remove air and bad fluid, and replace with good fluid and no air".
@@parktool Got it. Thanks for the wisdom.
i love you Calvin Jones
Bought some trp slate t4's anybody used them?
Why do they have trp g spec dh breaks on a hard tail
Why not?
Change gloves before installing pads 👍
i feel like a reservoir at the top would have been easier
not works for me.in the lever mechanism is rubber membrane and on the screw is small hole, when i pressing air coming out
I tried to follow this but it didn't work.
7:50 you are pushing air again xD
1:24 isopropyl alcohol, if you have the wallet to buy some on the medical supply black market
just use contact cleaner, WD40 do some
Here in Brazil they are very expensive
I have trektro fluid
Followed to a T and my brakes got worse fml 😂
My bike only had the bleed screw which is a pain since oil comes flowing out when you undo screw and need to put in syringe and vice versa. Such a horrible design. All brakes should have nipple with separate screw to open/close flow design in the future. .
Check out SRAM's Bleeding edge fitting.
@@parktool that's a neat tool. It's too bad my Tektro single bleed screw is a very small Allen diameter so the tool won't fit.
I don’t even have a disc brake bike and my next bike is gonna have mechanical
Some tips:
1. Don't depress the top plunger all the way down, otherwise you'll just reintroduce air into the system.
2. Pull back on the top plunger slightly and let it sit for 5-10 minutes to allow the bubbles to flow through the system to the top.
3. Always use a bleed block, otherwise you may overfill the system causing one or both pistons to rub against the rotor.
4. Never do this process with the bike upside down, and don't depress the lever with the wheel off of the bike or with the bleed ports open.
5. Press the top plunger down ever so slightly before removing the bottom plunger. Yes, this does cause a bit of leakage, but I've had issues with negative pressure when removing the bottom plunger, which ends up pulling air into the system and ruining the bleed. Just clean up with ethanol afterwards.
6. If you have a large supply of mineral oil, you can skip the top plunger altogether and just use a collection cup instead.
7. Don't use the cheapest bleed kit on Amazon. If the fittings aren't tight, you're not going to get a good result.
8. Unless you plan on bleeding your brakes multiple times a year, don't buy Park Tool's $150 bleed kit. At that price point you might as well pay your LBS for the service as part of a tune-up, and avoid the hassle altogether.
The best reason why to stick to mechanical brakes and v-brake. Fuck this shit.
Formula?
Coming soon for the DOT models.
Good video, too much going on though. Use the KISS method Keep it short and simple. It would be easier to follow if you used one type of nipple set up at a time.
LBS here I come. 🤣
I use baby oil
Yeah gotcha, I'll let my bike shop do this. This is way to risky/complicated to do yourself as a total beginner :D
I have worked on cars and motorcycles my whole life and I struggle to understand why this method is used on bikes, I recently helped friend bleed his sram brakes after it was done by a bike shop and they were still spongy he was told that is the way they are which is bullshit. Can anyone tell me why bike mechanics do it bottom up, you should never push air up the pipe and past the piston as the cup will always hold a bubble.and bleeding brakes off the bike makes no sense at all. There is only one video on you tube that shows it being done correctly that l have found...very strange.
Bike brakes are much more effected by small bubbles than an automotive application. The pressure is also boosted in automotive so this all adds up to every tiny air bubble mattering in a bicycle system. Each manufacturer has a procedure for their specific brake based on their experience and getting air bubbles out of the corners and from behind pistons, which can be difficult. Not every brake responds the same which makes the process a bit more complex than in the automotive world as well.
@@parktool This is why I commented, I very much doubt that bike brakes are more complex than motorcycle brakes there are multiple lines, link hoses and dual six spot calipers to contend with and no they are not boosted.You are absolutely correct about small bubbles causing issues, an ABS system on a motorcycle will not work correctly with even the smallest amount of air in the system as it does not modulate correctly. In order to remove all the air a large volume of fluid must be pumped through the system via a restriction on the bleed,the pressure created by pumping the lever is what evacuates the tiny bubbles a syringe will not create the same pressure or vacuum pending how it is used.Thank you for you reply I do appreciate your content.
@@davenorman8251 Also consider how much smaller things are and how much more precise things need to be. And that motorcycle brakes and automotive brakes rub very consistently where bike brakes are not to rub the rotor at all. As you bleed more bicycle brakes this will all make more sense.
Swap out complex for a bit more finicky, and that may help.
@@parktool Yes thank you I fully intend on teaching more mtb riders the right way to bleed their brakes. Are you aware that Magura use 12mm pistons for both mx and mtb master cylinders the only difference being the stroke and lever design...I'll leave that little nugget of info out there for the frankenbrake builders....Like I said in the first post I have been doing this shit my entire life.....enough said.
Music really making me feel like I'm doing open heart surgery on a CEO who knows the passcode to the safe containing the antidote for my husband's lethal poisoning.
DON'T MESS UP! CUT THE GREEN WIRE!
Why such the intense music lol
Can you please caption your content? it's not easy to follow with the dreaded auto captioning, as I do need to watch them to work on it.
I don't like bleeding them cause they are not squishy, they have modulation now :)
I dont even own a bike with disk brakes. Or good brakes at all
Tektro miss out 80% of the info in this video on their own channel 😤 utterly shameful
And their site is identified as untrusted by anti-malware/virus programs