After watching this video I actually managed to bleed my brakes! I wasn’t expecting to be able to do it so easily because of all the hate on sram brakes.
Just wanted to say thank you for this tutorial. I was able to bleed my front brake (SRAM G2 R) due to a spongy feel. I messed up the upper vacuum process (i.e. I didn't pull up on the vacuum enough to pull all the bubbles up; on top of me kind of hurrying and basically being inpatient). But once I understood how to perform that process and I did it till all the bubbles were out, it really was very simple indeed. Now I know I can do this service whenever I need to. I also totally understand the need for the bleeding edge system as well. These older style G2 R brakes do not have the bleeding edge tech and yes, it makes quite a mess. I strongly recommend a piece of cardboard under your work surface.
I finally got an awesome bleed on a set of Level TLs--they were mush before. Strapping the lever and slowly releasing it--along with the lever-syringe pull-push really helped pressurized the system. Thank you!!
Just bled mine using this as a guide and it worked perfectly. I can see all the love for the Bleeding Edge calipers as it did make quite a mess removing the syringes/bleed screws, but once I pulled a hard vacuum at the lever ALL the air came out lol. Nice bite again in the brakes.
My brakes felt great out of the box but after cutting the hoses to length and bleeding them, they feel about twice as powerful. Thanks for the instructions!
I'm going to replace my lines soon. I'm probably going to push fluid through the caliper up the hose while disconnected from the lever to fill the hose prior to connecting to the lever. I'll then connect the lever & bleed the system. Would it be alright to just displace the air up the connected system through the lever?
Congratulate for this highly informative video, you made an excellent quality tutorial again however this video make me sure to never ever switch to SRAM from Shimano. This procedure is way more overcomplicated compared to the Shimano bleeding process.
To give you a tip, it doesn't have to be this complicated. Simply connect the oil-filled syringe to the lever and open the caliper slightly and push the oil from the lever side to the syringe side. However, we need an oil drain bowl
Thanks for the great tutorial I've come to expect from Park. You've convinced me to stay with my mechanical disk brakes. I know they are considered inferior but they are much easier and cheaper to maintain.
Just a question. Other people suggest attaching the 3/4 full syringe to the lever end and the 1/4 full syringe to the calliper. I think this is the opposite way to your suggestion. Given that it is a sealed system, does it matter which way round you connect them? Just wanted to open up a debate. Thanks
I have done this bleed procedure on my Sram Level T brakes. The same thing as in the video happened to me. After removing the caliper syringe a spoonful of DOT fluid leaked from the caliper bleed port until I screwed the bleed screw in. Is it OK to leave it like that? Didnt any air get into the caliper during that short period of time until I screwed the bleed port screw in? Is there a way to awoid that small leak, like, for example, tilting the bike so that the caliper is higher than lever? Thanks for any replies in advance 🙂 Great video btw. Super simple to understand this tricky procedure.
Hey I have the same breaks.. I wilm want to do the same procedure I have some questions: 1.Did you do it succesufuly? 2.Did you encounter any problems? And dont worry if the brakes are hard thats what matters
when you have taken the caliper syringe out its likely that you didn't let the system equalise so when you took out the syringe the system then loses the excess fluid to equalise the system
@@ninjaride1312 yap, I did it succesfully. I even scrubed/cleaned caliper pistons and changed the pads. No breaking problems whatsoever. Both brakes feel great.
I have the SRAM DB5's and I have used this exact procedure 3 times on each and the brakes are mush. Two shops said these brakes are crap and trap a lot of air due to poor design. How the heck do I get my brakes back, I have been having to ride my wife's bike for coaching now.
So I have mostly been a Shimano user. My new bike has a pair of Guides on it with T levers. I just went to bleed them for the first time and it was an AWFUL result. I've followed GMBN AND SRAMS videos and followed the steps meticulously. 3 Times. No matter what, I lose all the pressure I pushed into the lever when I disconnect the bleed hose. I've read a million forums, and people suggest pushing the oil through WHILE closing the bleed screw at the caliper, as opposed to just leaving the caliper closed when you pressurize at the lever. This did not work for me. When I'm pressurizing the system I can FEEL how firm and incredible the lever is, but as soon as I disconnect the hose from the lever all the oil and pressure just escape the top. I put the screw back and all the pressure is lost. Spongy lever. EVERY TIME. I made sure the lever is above the caliper and that the caliper is correctly oriented. There are NO air bubbles coming out of the system. Ive tried manipulating the lever while performing a bleed. HOW do you get the pressure to REMAIN in the system when you disconnect the hose at the top!?
Do you have the reach of the lever set to 75-80mm? If not that could be part of the issue. Also, there should be no pressure in the system till the lever is pulled. When removing the caliper syringe it is more important to be quick and not let air in as that is in the pressure side of the braking system. The lever bleed port enters the resevoir which is not under pressure.
@@parktool I read the service manuals of some of the SRAM levers and thought during the bleeding process reach position was only relevant in levers with the contact point adjustment (such as the RSC). This was a good tip and I will try that! Heres the thing, when I am pressing the lever-side syringe I can feel the pressure it creates in the system and the firmness in the lever! When I let go of the syringe the pressure just backs up into the syringe and the lever looses it. I want that nice firm feeling back! It's lost when the syringe is removed! I think I'm satisfied with my current bleed, I did both levers with consistent, even results. The trick was to give the syringe time to equalize each time I depressed it. I would hold the syringe down, squeeze the lever a few times until it wasn't kicking back and repeated this until I couldn't push anymore!
@@choochoobaru oh interesting. I really like the feel of it, it's actually not quite as firm or instant as the Shimano XTs I have on an XC bike, but i still have a lot of modulation. The brake fully firms up about an inch and a half away from the bar, which I really like! Could there be long-term consequences from over bleeding?
@@ElyJennis sry for late answear but no that is the ,,modulation" that everybody is talking about with sram. It takes around 1" to fully firm bc thats how they were build to be
The red adaptor does seem not fit the caliper bleed port for SRAM Force etap hrd. None of the others seem to fit. Am I missing something or do I need another part?
Great viideo and work as always. Quick question i have a canyon road bike with sram red etap 11speed and i am gettin a buzzing noise coming from the front cables...at first i thought was coming from the front wheel caliper but now i find that when i move the front cables that go routed inside the frame it makes that annoying sound. I got the bike re bleeded and the noise went away and was happy but after 6months the sa.e noise came back. Has anyone heard of this issue before? Any suggestions besides getting another bike with shimano di2. Thank you guys.
It likely the hose rattling inside the frame or fork. To remedy this there is foam insulation that you can get to cover the hose to stop the hose from rattling internally.
@@parktool The noise i am experiencing is more of an electronic buzz sound not a cable rattling inside the fork. The bike can be still and if i move it for a bit or move the front cables slightly i hear the noise. Thank you
Hello I got a sram lvl tl, it don't have the think that spins on the lever, like the guide one is it important to have it? Cause actually I couldn't bleed it by myself
Those spin things help you adjust the contact point. Basically helps you adjust how close the pads are to the discs. This is especially relevant if you are interested overbleeding. Generally it helps to make the left and right side brake lever pull feel the same such that the same person I’ll of them lever results in first contact of the disc. Without this spin thing you can still bleed the brakes the same way.
What if I'm doing the lever bleed and I'm pulling bubbles like a vacuum, there's still bubbles coming out But I'm at the top of my syringe and I can't pull up on it anymore or it will disconnect from the body? Tried to push it back down but the pressure wouldn't let me it kept going back up to the top.... thanks
@@parktool it's sucking fine , I actually hear a noise coming from the lever like somethings letting air in and it's creating tons of bubbles. Somewhere underneath that I can't see and I also noticed a drip on the floor after I cleaned everything up and the shifter which is underneath also was a bit wet... is there a seal under there? There juicy 3s it looks like a second bleed hole? Maybe the o ring I replaced the main bleed hole rubber ring I didn't know there was two... I'm gonna look into it more thank you for the quick reply if you have any advice I'd appreciate it But I'm sure you're busy Busy thank you for your time :)
The juicy 3 levers were the same for the left and right side so there was a bleed port on the top and the bottom. It could be a degraded seal from that lower port or possibly a leak at the diaphragm.
@@frsknsld Fill one syringe 1/3rd, insert to lever, pump the air out with syringe, pressurise lever, repeat once or twice for a firmer brake & presto, job done!
Cant get the pistons pressed into the calipers all the way and cant fit the bleed block. Elixr5 brakes- no contact point adjustment. On same brakes do you just need to go ahead and open the system in order to get the pistons pressed all the way in? I'm using quite a bit of force against the old pads, to the point where I'm worried about damaging the calipers. Thanks!
On DOT systems the fluid can absorb moisture through the lines and can increase the volume. Loosen the bleed port to let some of the fluid out and you should be good to go. Be sure to use a rag to absorb the fluid coming out of the port, then neutralize it with water or alcohol.
Got a chuckle out of this. Its like its some secret technology only available to bicycles. The only real point of difference is everything is smaller but the principles are exactly the same as bleeding any other hydraulic brake.
what about degassing the fluid as sram recommend? (DOT is the most disgusting thing that is appear in bike industry. MUCH easyer to work with mineral oil based brakes. due to the fluid + also the product designes.)
It has been seen that degassing is no longer a necessary procedure. Degassing is no longer required and an unnecessary processes with the tools used, even with DOT fluid. You can even call SRAM and ask them personally.
There are advantages to DoT fluid. Significantly higher boiling point. That's why you don't need all the heat control features that Shimano has. But it does need to be changed more often [anually] since it's hydrophilic.
Thanks for another great video. One piece of feedback: in regard to cleaning and storage between use, SRAM recommends something different and I think simpler than what you recommend here. They recommend storing with DOT fluid in the hoses with clamps open to prevent the plastic from becoming cloudy and brittle. See page 69: www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/bleed-manuals/sram/dot-fluid-mtb-disc-brake-hose-shortening-and-bleed-manual.pdf
This is actually a good suggestion, I’ve only had my BKD 1.2 kit for a few months and the syringe hoses are definitely cloudy. I’ve been cleaning all the parts of my kit with isopropyl alcohol after each bleed and I’m wondering if maybe this was a mistake.
hello master, i'm rian from indonesia. i want to ask the size of the avid elixir7 brake caliper piston, what is the size of the piston? Thanks in advance, I'll be waiting for your answer
Love the tools and channel, but you guys make things more complicated than they are. Literally , you make things look scary, when it’s not. Sram’s bleed guide video is 3 times more simple. You are make videos to help people and every video is over complicated, and scares the hell of people (me). Extremely hard to follow in work shop 20 extra steps. It’s like your a bunch of Unrealistic engineers, when real mechanics don’t follow The ridiculous instructions and find shortcuts Chain sizing video is same thing WAY over complicated, I was afraid of doing it. Then someone showed me to just stretch chain over gears and make mech have slight bend mark cut no measuring.
Best bicycle repair videos on the interenet. I appreciate what you guys do. Thank You!
After watching this video I actually managed to bleed my brakes! I wasn’t expecting to be able to do it so easily because of all the hate on sram brakes.
Just wanted to say thank you for this tutorial. I was able to bleed my front brake (SRAM G2 R) due to a spongy feel. I messed up the upper vacuum process (i.e. I didn't pull up on the vacuum enough to pull all the bubbles up; on top of me kind of hurrying and basically being inpatient). But once I understood how to perform that process and I did it till all the bubbles were out, it really was very simple indeed. Now I know I can do this service whenever I need to. I also totally understand the need for the bleeding edge system as well. These older style G2 R brakes do not have the bleeding edge tech and yes, it makes quite a mess. I strongly recommend a piece of cardboard under your work surface.
I finally got an awesome bleed on a set of Level TLs--they were mush before. Strapping the lever and slowly releasing it--along with the lever-syringe pull-push really helped pressurized the system. Thank you!!
Just bled mine using this as a guide and it worked perfectly. I can see all the love for the Bleeding Edge calipers as it did make quite a mess removing the syringes/bleed screws, but once I pulled a hard vacuum at the lever ALL the air came out lol. Nice bite again in the brakes.
Made a perfect bleed, thanks to this video! Doesn't brake much better than it did but at least now my oil is new & free of air. Thanks!
I'll Shimano XT's now for sure. Thank you
How happy I'm for Shimano using the closing port on caliper ✌️
My brakes felt great out of the box but after cutting the hoses to length and bleeding them, they feel about twice as powerful. Thanks for the instructions!
how about showing bleed on a REAR caliper?? The bleed ports are positioned differently, it makes a difference!
I can’t believe how much time I spent trying to bleed my SRAM, and I couldn’t get it to work. No chance I’ll ever buy SRAM again
yea probably the best one i have seen Thanks
Really well done and informative video. Thank you.
I'm going to replace my lines soon. I'm probably going to push fluid through the caliper up the hose while disconnected from the lever to fill the hose prior to connecting to the lever. I'll then connect the lever & bleed the system. Would it be alright to just displace the air up the connected system through the lever?
Excellent - thanks. I would love to see future tutorials on Rockshox Reverb dropper post, and Fox suspension service 👍👍...
@ParkTool Did you forget to clean the pistons before retracting them?
Thank you this video was a huge help
Congratulate for this highly informative video, you made an excellent quality tutorial again however this video make me sure to never ever switch to SRAM from Shimano. This procedure is way more overcomplicated compared to the Shimano bleeding process.
No kidding. Plus, Shimano brakes are far superior.
To give you a tip, it doesn't have to be this complicated.
Simply connect the oil-filled syringe to the lever and open the caliper slightly and push the oil from the lever side to the syringe side.
However, we need an oil drain bowl
If only it was this easy!
Thanks for the great tutorial I've come to expect from Park. You've convinced me to stay with my mechanical disk brakes. I know they are considered inferior but they are much easier and cheaper to maintain.
No wasted time very informative👍
Great video !!
Can you share a video on SRSM RIVAL AXS eTap - I believe it’s different from FORCE OR RED.
Thanks
Just a question. Other people suggest attaching the 3/4 full syringe to the lever end and the 1/4 full syringe to the calliper. I think this is the opposite way to your suggestion. Given that it is a sealed system, does it matter which way round you connect them? Just wanted to open up a debate. Thanks
For the ones that suggest 3/4 at the lever, those were the bleeding edge from what I have seen.
I wonder why it is needed to do the procedure on the bottom and the top? E.g. with shimano you only push fluids in from the bottom and that's it.
I have done this bleed procedure on my Sram Level T brakes. The same thing as in the video happened to me. After removing the caliper syringe a spoonful of DOT fluid leaked from the caliper bleed port until I screwed the bleed screw in. Is it OK to leave it like that? Didnt any air get into the caliper during that short period of time until I screwed the bleed port screw in? Is there a way to awoid that small leak, like, for example, tilting the bike so that the caliper is higher than lever? Thanks for any replies in advance 🙂
Great video btw. Super simple to understand this tricky procedure.
Hey I have the same breaks.. I wilm want to do the same procedure I have some questions:
1.Did you do it succesufuly?
2.Did you encounter any problems?
And dont worry if the brakes are hard thats what matters
when you have taken the caliper syringe out its likely that you didn't let the system equalise so when you took out the syringe the system then loses the excess fluid to equalise the system
@@ninjaride1312 yap, I did it succesfully. I even scrubed/cleaned caliper pistons and changed the pads. No breaking problems whatsoever. Both brakes feel great.
does matter what strenght isporopl alchol to clean up DOT fluid?
Any fluid neutralized the DOT. Windex, what ever you have, even water.
Very useful
I have the SRAM DB5's and I have used this exact procedure 3 times on each and the brakes are mush. Two shops said these brakes are crap and trap a lot of air due to poor design. How the heck do I get my brakes back, I have been having to ride my wife's bike for coaching now.
When you were finished and removed the syringe from the bleed port on the caliper, fluid came out and dint't air go in? (at 6:53 mark)
That’s why he drew a vacuum at the lever in the next step
Hi. Is the caliper adaptor for the Sram Guide available seperately? I was suprised to find it wasnt included in the BKD kit.
I bled the brake 2 times but it still reaches my handlebars
This is the first video I’ve seen where they don’t put a whole load of air back in the system from the syringes not being properly loaded
Awesome kit. Drinking Monster is not much healthier than drinking D.O.T. though.
So I have mostly been a Shimano user. My new bike has a pair of Guides on it with T levers. I just went to bleed them for the first time and it was an AWFUL result. I've followed GMBN AND SRAMS videos and followed the steps meticulously. 3 Times. No matter what, I lose all the pressure I pushed into the lever when I disconnect the bleed hose. I've read a million forums, and people suggest pushing the oil through WHILE closing the bleed screw at the caliper, as opposed to just leaving the caliper closed when you pressurize at the lever. This did not work for me. When I'm pressurizing the system I can FEEL how firm and incredible the lever is, but as soon as I disconnect the hose from the lever all the oil and pressure just escape the top. I put the screw back and all the pressure is lost. Spongy lever. EVERY TIME. I made sure the lever is above the caliper and that the caliper is correctly oriented. There are NO air bubbles coming out of the system. Ive tried manipulating the lever while performing a bleed. HOW do you get the pressure to REMAIN in the system when you disconnect the hose at the top!?
Do you have the reach of the lever set to 75-80mm? If not that could be part of the issue. Also, there should be no pressure in the system till the lever is pulled. When removing the caliper syringe it is more important to be quick and not let air in as that is in the pressure side of the braking system. The lever bleed port enters the resevoir which is not under pressure.
@@parktool I read the service manuals of some of the SRAM levers and thought during the bleeding process reach position was only relevant in levers with the contact point adjustment (such as the RSC). This was a good tip and I will try that!
Heres the thing, when I am pressing the lever-side syringe I can feel the pressure it creates in the system and the firmness in the lever! When I let go of the syringe the pressure just backs up into the syringe and the lever looses it. I want that nice firm feeling back! It's lost when the syringe is removed!
I think I'm satisfied with my current bleed, I did both levers with consistent, even results. The trick was to give the syringe time to equalize each time I depressed it. I would hold the syringe down, squeeze the lever a few times until it wasn't kicking back and repeated this until I couldn't push anymore!
@@choochoobaru oh interesting. I really like the feel of it, it's actually not quite as firm or instant as the Shimano XTs I have on an XC bike, but i still have a lot of modulation. The brake fully firms up about an inch and a half away from the bar, which I really like! Could there be long-term consequences from over bleeding?
Not sure if Guide T has/had same sticky lever piston issue some of the other Guides and DB5s did. Could this be a thing here?
@@ElyJennis sry for late answear but no that is the ,,modulation" that everybody is talking about with sram. It takes around 1" to fully firm bc thats how they were build to be
Well done, thank you
The red adaptor does seem not fit the caliper bleed port for SRAM Force etap hrd. None of the others seem to fit. Am I missing something or do I need another part?
The red fitting should work at the lever and the bleeding edge (stainless fitting) adaptor should fit at the caliper on tat system.
This baseline was stuck in my head all day
will get this kit for sure, thnx
Great viideo and work as always. Quick question i have a canyon road bike with sram red etap 11speed and i am gettin a buzzing noise coming from the front cables...at first i thought was coming from the front wheel caliper but now i find that when i move the front cables that go routed inside the frame it makes that annoying sound. I got the bike re bleeded and the noise went away and was happy but after 6months the sa.e noise came back. Has anyone heard of this issue before? Any suggestions besides getting another bike with shimano di2. Thank you guys.
It likely the hose rattling inside the frame or fork. To remedy this there is foam insulation that you can get to cover the hose to stop the hose from rattling internally.
@@parktool The noise i am experiencing is more of an electronic buzz sound not a cable rattling inside the fork. The bike can be still and if i move it for a bit or move the front cables slightly i hear the noise. Thank you
Excellent , Thank you ✌
The same with Juicy 3 ?
Same on the juicy brakes as well.
Hello I got a sram lvl tl, it don't have the think that spins on the lever, like the guide one is it important to have it? Cause actually I couldn't bleed it by myself
Those spin things help you adjust the contact point. Basically helps you adjust how close the pads are to the discs. This is especially relevant if you are interested overbleeding. Generally it helps to make the left and right side brake lever pull feel the same such that the same person I’ll of them lever results in first contact of the disc. Without this spin thing you can still bleed the brakes the same way.
Is it relevant for any hydraulic breaking system by sram? Level T is good?
This procedure is great for SRAM level brakes.
What if I'm doing the lever bleed and I'm pulling bubbles like a vacuum, there's still bubbles coming out But I'm at the top of my syringe and I can't pull up on it anymore or it will disconnect from the body? Tried to push it back down but the pressure wouldn't let me it kept going back up to the top.... thanks
It could be a leak at the syringe joints. Take it off the bike. Put a thumb over the end and pull to test. Contact us if you need a seal kit.
@@parktool it's sucking fine , I actually hear a noise coming from the lever like somethings letting air in and it's creating tons of bubbles. Somewhere underneath that I can't see and I also noticed a drip on the floor after I cleaned everything up and the shifter which is underneath also was a bit wet... is there a seal under there? There juicy 3s it looks like a second bleed hole? Maybe the o ring I replaced the main bleed hole rubber ring I didn't know there was two... I'm gonna look into it more thank you for the quick reply if you have any advice I'd appreciate it But I'm sure you're busy Busy thank you for your time :)
The juicy 3 levers were the same for the left and right side so there was a bleed port on the top and the bottom. It could be a degraded seal from that lower port or possibly a leak at the diaphragm.
Looks like a royal PITA to me. Been bleeding Shimano brakes for years and they're laffably simpler.
Works
how do I identify what type of breaking fluid i have , dot or mineral ?
It is often printed on the brake. Also, contact the manufacturer or see their product information on their websites.
@@parktool what are the different between the dot and mineral oil? What is better ?
Both have their pros and cons. Its a much larger discussion than a comment shoudl really go into. We'll put it on the video list :)
@@parktool may you show in this video where the type of the oil written cause i cant find it on my break and i cant find any information online
@@guycohen4403 What brake have you got?
whay sram brakes are so comlicated to pump
Looks like a sales promotion to sale a brake bleeding kit or individual tools.
Hate bleeding SRAM brakes. The worst
I personally find the process easier than shimano's. If the oil isn't that old, you can just do a quick bleed on the lever.
RaggleFraggle! Maybe in bizarro world hahah
@@frsknsld
Fill one syringe 1/3rd, insert to lever, pump the air out with syringe, pressurise lever, repeat once or twice for a firmer brake & presto, job done!
@@PSNragglefraggle1 So don't even touch the caliper?
@@whitesnakemsu
Yeah. You take it off halfway through a full bleed anyway.
Cant get the pistons pressed into the calipers all the way and cant fit the bleed block. Elixr5 brakes- no contact point adjustment. On same brakes do you just need to go ahead and open the system in order to get the pistons pressed all the way in? I'm using quite a bit of force against the old pads, to the point where I'm worried about damaging the calipers. Thanks!
On DOT systems the fluid can absorb moisture through the lines and can increase the volume. Loosen the bleed port to let some of the fluid out and you should be good to go. Be sure to use a rag to absorb the fluid coming out of the port, then neutralize it with water or alcohol.
@@parktool Thanks for the quick response! You guys rock!
Наикрутейший гайд
Hmmm yeah I think I'll stick with my rim brakes
Got a chuckle out of this. Its like its some secret technology only available to bicycles. The only real point of difference is everything is smaller but the principles are exactly the same as bleeding any other hydraulic brake.
yobgow simply not true... these brakes are unlike any other break I’ve ever bled.
@@xplicitmetal
'breaks you've ever bled'?!
👍👍👍
Pro tip-just buy a bike with Shimano brakes 😁.
what about degassing the fluid as sram recommend?
(DOT is the most disgusting thing that is appear in bike industry. MUCH easyer to work with mineral oil based brakes. due to the fluid + also the product designes.)
It has been seen that degassing is no longer a necessary procedure. Degassing is no longer required and an unnecessary processes with the tools used, even with DOT fluid. You can even call SRAM and ask them personally.
There are advantages to DoT fluid. Significantly higher boiling point. That's why you don't need all the heat control features that Shimano has. But it does need to be changed more often [anually] since it's hydrophilic.
I wish these videos weren’t so hopeful because the robot vibe of the technicians always really bothers.
Thanks for another great video.
One piece of feedback: in regard to cleaning and storage between use, SRAM recommends something different and I think simpler than what you recommend here. They recommend storing with DOT fluid in the hoses with clamps open to prevent the plastic from becoming cloudy and brittle. See page 69: www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/bleed-manuals/sram/dot-fluid-mtb-disc-brake-hose-shortening-and-bleed-manual.pdf
This is actually a good suggestion, I’ve only had my BKD 1.2 kit for a few months and the syringe hoses are definitely cloudy.
I’ve been cleaning all the parts of my kit with isopropyl alcohol after each bleed and I’m wondering if maybe this was a mistake.
Where's the mustache guy
Bleeding other brakes.
hello master, i'm rian from indonesia. i want to ask the size of the avid elixir7 brake caliper piston, what is the size of the piston?
Thanks in advance, I'll be waiting for your answer
I don't understand what I'm doing wrong :'(
Nice reading of a board bud 😂
Hi
Throw them in the bin and get some proper brakes
Where is tektro break??
Tektro and TRP is coming soon.
Just smash it with a hammer. That'll break it.
First one finally
First view
Who's this guy? Where's calvin
Love the tools and channel, but you guys make things more complicated than they are. Literally , you make things look scary, when it’s not. Sram’s bleed guide video is 3 times more simple. You are make videos to help people and every video is over complicated, and scares the hell of people (me). Extremely hard to follow in work shop 20 extra steps. It’s like your a bunch of Unrealistic engineers, when real mechanics don’t follow The ridiculous instructions and find shortcuts
Chain sizing video is same thing WAY over complicated, I was afraid of doing it. Then someone showed me to just stretch chain over gears and make mech have slight bend mark cut no measuring.
Hi
hello