How To Bleed TRP Brakes - A Step By Step Guide
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- TRP has become a well-known brand that is trusted by thousands of mountain bikers around the world, but what happens when they start acting up? In this video we show you how to successfully bleed your TRP brakes so you can keep riding with the confidence in their stopping power you bought them for in the first place. It's a simple and easy process that won't have you scratching your head; instead, you'll be out on the trail enjoying the power control TRP brake bring. We hope this helps you in your quest to find fun on every trail.
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2 critiques. 1) Clean the caliper and pistons (with pads removed) before you push the pistons into their bores. 2) The dirtiest oil is in the caliper, why push it up into the lever? Do a gravity drain first to purge that filthy oil out of the caliper and then go about a standard bleed procedure.
Thanks. I bought gt fury elite 2025 with them brakes. Do you think they good enough for Fort William, Morzine and Aosta Pila bike trails?
Can you use Shimano fluid on the TRP Evo? I have a whole quart sat in the shelf that would otherwise go to waste
I asked my local mechanic, and he says it's fine.
is there an O ring on the bleed port? 2. Is there O rings on the inner caliper?
You just overfilled the system, my man.
Is it good brakes?
As others who have commented, being a retired Heavy Duty Mechanic and life-long cyclist having done thousands of brake jobs .... and yes right off the bat, the *MOST* critical error this guy is making is taking shortcuts by NOT either fully nor critically understanding how and what hydraulics are or simply just to rush this video through especially with sensitive parts like .... BRAKES !!!
First of all ---> *DO NOT SPREAD THE PADS* .... but instead ---> *REMOVE THE PADS FIRST* then using alcohol, *ALWAYS* clean the protruding pistons surfaces, and why you ask? Simple! When the pistons are moving in and out, they _'form micro scratches_ from the debris and you *DO NOT WANT*micro dirt and sand to abrade just what _'Wet & Dry Sandpaper'_ does!
THE FOLLOWING ARE VERY LONG EXTENDED STEPS FOR A PROFESSIONAL AND SAFE BRAKE SYSTEM BLEED WITH ADDITONAL INFO AT ATHE END:
*_CRITICAL ---> USE DISPOSAL GLOVES - DO NOT HANDLE WITH BARE HANDS_*
(01) Loosen and *HORIZONTALLY LEVEL* the top Brake Lever Fill/Bleed Reservoir
(02) Now unbolt and *REMOVE* the bottom Brake Caliper *OFF* the bike frame
(03) Carefully remove the Caliper Brake Disc Pads out from the Caliper and set aside
*_CRITICAL ---> DO NOT COMPRESS OR MOVE THE CALIPER PISTONS ... YET_*
(04) With the Caliper Pistons fully exposed *FULLY CLEAN THE PISTONS* with Alcohol
*_OPTIONS ---> USING A FILL/BLEED CUP or FILL/BLEED SYRINGE:_*
(05) If using a _'Fill/Bleed Cup'_ install the Cup to top Reservoir and fill with new Fluid
(06) If using a _'Fill/'Bleed Syringe'_ fill Syringe with new Fluid and install to top Reservoir
(07) Next, remove the bottom Caliper Bleed Screw .... NO FLUID will leak out yet!
(08) If using a _'Fill/Bleed Cup'_ pull-up plunger to gravity-feed old fluid into lower container
(09) If using a _'Fill/'Bleed Syringe'_ push full Syringe to flush old fluid into lower container
(10) Continue to flush old Brake Fluid into rags or a lower container for disposal
(11) All flushed and Caliper Screw open, use a _'Spreader'_ to compress Pistons inward
*_CRITICAL ---> DO NOT REVERSE-FLUSH DIRTY FLUID BACK UP TO TOP RESERVOIR_*
(12) With Pistons now in, pass more new fluid from top Reservoir to flush the system
(13) With Cup or Syringe use, ensure that residual new Fluid *REMAINS* in containers!
(14) With Brake System now entirely cleaned, close Caliper Screw and *CLEAN UP*
*_CRITICAL ---> NEVER SQUEEZE BRAKE LEVERS WITH OPEN CALIPERS_*
(15) After clean up, insert a _'dummy'_ plastic _'Piston Brake Pad Block'_ inside Caliper
(16) Now firmly but gently pump Brake Lever forcing air bubbles to rise to the top Cup
(17) Continue pumping until no bubbles appear in the top Cup or Syringe
(18) With no more bubbles rising visibly, *NOW HOLD THE BRAKE LEVER FIRMLY*
(19) Remove Cup or Syringe and gently fasten the Reservoir Screw ... now release Lever
(20) Remove lower Caliper _'Piston Brake Pad Block'_ and *CLEAN UP* with alcohol
(21) Re-install new Brake Pads and *LOOSELY* re-attach the Caliper to the frame
(22) Lastly, squeeze and *HOLD* Brake Lever to _'Center'_ the Caliper Pads to the Rotor
(23) While holding Brake Lever and with Caliper centered, firmly fasten the Caliper Bolts
(24) Finally, if using new Pads, proceed to _'Bed-In'_ the Brake System simple steps
HOW TO BED IN NEWLY INSTALLED HYDRAULIC BRAKE PADS:
(01) Make sure both Caliper Brake Pads and Brake Rotors are *SUPER CLEAN*
(02) Find a safe car-free area to ride the bike undisturbed
(03) Ride up to a moderate speed and then apply the brakes NOT to stop, but to _'drag'_
*_NOTE:_*
THE GOAL IS TO RIDE THE BIKE WHILE _'DRAGGING'_ THE PADS ON THE ROTOR TO EVENLY DEPOSIT A LAYER OF BRAKE MATERIAL BETWEEN THE BRAKE PADS AND ROTOR
(04) Continue repeating these riding steps for about 20 times until you feel Brakes becoming much more powerful through the process!
(05) Once the Brake Pads and Rotor are fully bedded in, park and let the system cool off
(06) You can also proceed to splash water on the Caliper Pads which will create a _'slurry'_ helping the system bed-in akin to using a Whet Stone to hone knives with!
(07) The latter is an option which will require washing off any residual material to prevent _'caking'_ on on the Caliper Pistons and Rotor surface
(08) Lastly, gently scuffing up the Brake Rotor using a _'Brillo Pad'_ will help to _'de-glaze'_ the braking surface optimizing for peak performance!
So .... there it is!
Sorry for the LONG post .... and sure, there's _'shortcuts'_ .... or use these extended and very meticulous steps to FULLY and PROFESSIONALLY get the job done right once ensuring that you will have a FULLY clean, but especially a FULLY secure braking system!
Ride On !!!
👍😎
Thank you so much for taking to time to explain all these vital things. You've answered many of my questions (and addressed some reservations). Much appreciated!
Do you find the power improve or it's still kind'a less powerfull?
My dream brake set...right now im use hope tech3
Can you use a shimano bleed cup? Or is a special needed?
I know a better method , the principle is that always bleed with VACUUM , you need two syringes , only that not with an ultra flexible hose (like in the video) instead a semi rigid-flexible one , and short , max 5 cm , push back the pistons , block them , fill one syringe with fresh oil and connect to the lowest point in the system witch is the piston , connect the second one empty syringe at the lever , now actuate the empty syringe to suck oil from the system and from the full syringe , due to the vacuum the micro air bubbles will expand in volume and start to rush at the highest point of the system ... its the most perfect , no waste method
What bleed kit is that
my bleed port screw won't unscrew (on the front and rear calipers) I even snapped a torx trying to unscrew it any ideas as I even purchased a new one and that won't unscrew either! it's frustrating as hell
You pushed the pistons back into the caliper before cleaning them. The pistons get filthy as the pads wear, and the pistons work their way out of the bores. If you push them back into the caliper without cleaning them first you're dragging all that muck and filth back past the piston seals which causes premature wear which obviously isn't good.
Also, those park pad spacers have a 10mm end, and a 12mm end. You use one or the other, depending on the brake you're working on but here you're using the middle section of the bleed blocks, which is incorrect. They're too thin in the middle and will result in an overfilled system.
The last step is unnecessary. The system will be overfilled if you let the pads get in contact with the rotor with the funnel still attached to the lever. It wont be a problem unless you install new pads…
man i tried before this and contaminated everything with oil... oil everywhere, on the discs, pads, on the ground and the ceiling of the garage (the syringe exploded
My solution to these troublesome brakes.... Shimano Saints.
Slather it?