A very experienced modeler said to stagger the joints of the left rail verses the right rail when using flex track on curves. This worked very well to eliminate gauge problems. He also recommended sodering all joiner connections.
These are good tips. I would highly recommend PVA (Elmers) glue instead of LocTite. In the event of a need to move/adjust the track, a little water and about 10 minutes softens the glue and allows you to readjust switches and track. (Ask me how I know about this!) Thanks for sharing!
Indeed - I found a new Olfa 18mm snap off blade carefully run under the ties will lift track and turnouts from PVA pretty easily without needing to soften or dampen the glue (although I havent used the damping technique you describe for small adjustment). Scrape and sand the surface down (you can sand into a cork surface without problems) and you can re-lay the same (or new) track. I've lifted multiple turnouts like this and re-layed without damaging the turnout or the cork bed
Thanks again Andy, for another great track video. Back in the 70s there were tips in the model railroad magazines, about Laying flex track, but your lecture here is better than any that I've ever seen, regarding lane flex track. Years ago I did this but no one had mentioned about the need for a really fine mist spray for adhesive. You have a lot of good extra tips as well. Thanks again!
Tip #1 - my track had more waves in it than the ocean. I went at the cork with a block and 40 grit paper, 1000% better! Not perfect, but good enough for the girls I go with!!! Thank You!
Hi mate I like the tip about soldering the curve joints of flex track but what about allowing for expanding due to weather conditions etc I like the idea of soldering the curves but I’ve also seen you should leave a gap between each joint to allow for movement
Great tips mate thank you i never thought about a dehumidifier before and my layout is in the loft no heating I'm gonna get me one of those. Thanks Andy.
Great set of tips for trackwork, Andy! I'd add one more - chamfer the inside rail ends so that a wheel cannot find a square edge to ride up on. This is especially useful with joints made on curves.
@@AndyDorsch I use a mill file. If you chamfer the foot of the rail on the sides as well, then rail joiners tend to slide on a little easier. A friend recommends a "track use only" mill file so that it remains sharp.
I was trying to figure out how you lay straight tracks as straight as possible on a layout. I'm glad I found this video. Tip #9 will certainly come in handy when I start building a layout. 👉 05:43 Those 3 foot flex tracks were very difficult to keep straight while laying them on a layout. 🥴 I'm really glad I found this video. 👏
I think it's funny that a tip is how to make track straight when you think....well, you just straighten it out, right? That's how it comes, isn't it? But it indeed has some kind of flexes to it that would show or have some other effect you don't want. My N scale layout I currently have only has limited straight (tangent?) sections as it's a couple small ovals, but I'm sure this will be helpful for my HO shelf layout in progress.
i have a yard stick made out of alum, fits perfectly between the rails. another one fits perfectly for track spacing. rail to rail for yards. tie to tie for mainlines.
Great tips Andy. Tip #5 on track alignment references using PC Board ties to attach the rail to and then glue down. It appears you are soldering the rail to the PC Board. If this can be soldered, it must be conductive, so how do you keep from shorting across the rails? I have an alignment problem I am trying to fix and this seems like a great solution- except I can't figure out the shorting issue.
The PCB ties have a thin layer of copper on top the resin base. Use a needle file to wear away a strip of the copper, usually in the center of the tie. Verify there's no short across with an ammeter (or other test tool). Easy to do.
Hi Andy, beginning at time point 5:24 in your video, you are showing two different styles of track. The track on the left side has incredibly detailed wood grain on the track ties, while the track on the right has barely any wood grain detail at all. I really like the look of the more highly detailed track on the left. Could you please reveal the brand and rail code of that track on the left. I am currently planning my first HO scale railroad and want to make the right choice for the bulk purchase of flex track that I'll need. Thanks, and great video deserving of many thumbs up!
I think what you're saying is the weathered track on the left and un-weathered on the right. You can especially tell as there's no ballast on the right, it's just track on cork. I'm guessing there's some slight dry brush that happened on the left to accentuate the wood grain.
Great Video! Question I saw a recommendation that you paint the cork roadbed same colour as your ballast before ballasting. Will paint affect the cork roadbed later on? Your thoughts.
I might suggest that for Tip#6, instead of a tube adhesive to use PVA glue instead. It has saved me heartache: simply add a little water and within about 10 minutes with a putty knife and some patience the track can easily be moved. Let it dry and it is hard as nails and clear again!
happy new year -basic question -if i don't want to make a professional layout (landscape, cities, bridges etc), just track to run trains, what option would you recommend as trackbed except cork? thank you
I want to say? HO modeler here. Looking at N-Scale, just curious. I have started, but because of moves, torn down model railroads. One thing i will NEVER do again? Travk nails. I did this on my latest layout. Waste of time . Use latex caulk. Much easier Suoer elevation? Its uo to you
Why go to rhe trouble of cork, why not use ez track or Kato untrack? I'm a newb so, sorry if it's a daft question. Very nicely explained btw, I like your calm and to the point style. You make this all sound accessible and not overly intimidating.
ez track or Kato unitrack just don't look authentic and they won't always do what you want. With those, you're working with the lengths and curves they make (generally), instead of being able to purchase flex track and curving it like you want it, or keeping it straight. The whole point about a MODEL railroad and not a train set is that you want to look as real as possible in the small scale. Cork in itself is an option though too. You can use something similar, like foam roadbed, or no roadbed at all. Track in real life is generally elevated, so some kind of roadbed is good, unless it's a really worn down area that isn't maintained nearly as well. One thing about cork as well is that you can sand it, as he mentioned, to even out bumps in the benchwork, like between sections of benchwork.
Regarding cutting and filing rails, why wouldn’t it be better to use a modeling saw designed to cut them? It’s been 45 years and I’m getting back into the hobby - if I can afford it now - lol. I still have that saw and have used it over the years for a variety of small jobs.
When is it appropriate to nail or spike flextrack as opposed to using glue or caulk? I've had good luck with caulk but if I spike then ballast I'm thinking that might hold it down nicely, too.
You can use spikes as an alternative to glue if you are unsure if the track placement it permanent. It's much easier to pull up a nail then chisel glue or caulk. Also if curves are being stubborn, you can throw a spike in there too!!
If you want to see the next video in this series, follow the link to my tips on ballasting video - ruclips.net/video/iqLUerGfG1U/видео.html
A very experienced modeler said to stagger the joints of the left rail verses the right rail when using flex track on curves. This worked very well to eliminate gauge problems. He also recommended sodering all joiner connections.
I've built two significant railroads in the past two decades and can vouch that these are all great tips. Thank you for sharing with the hobby.
These are good tips. I would highly recommend PVA (Elmers) glue instead of LocTite. In the event of a need to move/adjust the track, a little water and about 10 minutes softens the glue and allows you to readjust switches and track. (Ask me how I know about this!) Thanks for sharing!
Indeed - I found a new Olfa 18mm snap off blade carefully run under the ties will lift track and turnouts from PVA pretty easily without needing to soften or dampen the glue (although I havent used the damping technique you describe for small adjustment). Scrape and sand the surface down (you can sand into a cork surface without problems) and you can re-lay the same (or new) track.
I've lifted multiple turnouts like this and re-layed without damaging the turnout or the cork bed
There's a great looking workbench at the end!
Thanks again Andy, for another great track video.
Back in the 70s there were tips in the model railroad magazines, about Laying flex track, but your lecture here is better than any that I've ever seen, regarding lane flex track.
Years ago I did this but no one had mentioned about the need for a really fine mist spray for adhesive.
You have a lot of good extra tips as well.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the info!
A dehumidifier is a good tip, I have one and in the summer it is very helpful.
It really is!
Tip #1 - my track had more waves in it than the ocean. I went at the cork with a block and 40 grit paper, 1000% better! Not perfect, but good enough for the girls I go with!!! Thank You!
Hi mate I like the tip about soldering the curve joints of flex track but what about allowing for expanding due to weather conditions etc I like the idea of soldering the curves but I’ve also seen you should leave a gap between each joint to allow for movement
I'm glad I live in a desert. It saves a lot of problems.
No need for a dehumidifier!!!
Except our monsoon season!
Ditto! I live in Colorado with very low humidity.
@@sirblack1619 I also live in Colorado.
Great video Andy!
Glad you enjoyed it
Love the track-laying tips. Good sound advice. Thank you for the shout - out Andy! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Thanks Boomer!!! And no worries about the Shout Out!
@@AndyDorsch Have fun working on the "Hawaii" tan Andy. 😁
Great tips mate thank you i never thought about a dehumidifier before and my layout is in the loft no heating I'm gonna get me one of those. Thanks Andy.
Great set of tips for trackwork, Andy! I'd add one more - chamfer the inside rail ends so that a wheel cannot find a square edge to ride up on. This is especially useful with joints made on curves.
I have never thought of that. What do you use to add the chamfer??
@@AndyDorsch I use a mill file. If you chamfer the foot of the rail on the sides as well, then rail joiners tend to slide on a little easier. A friend recommends a "track use only" mill file so that it remains sharp.
Pretty interesting ! Especially the ruined ties and the side rail plates.
Fantastic tips! These will undoubtedly come in handy as I start to build my layout over the next few months. Thank you so much for sharing! 😊
Thanks again Andy for another great video!
Great modeling tips.
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome tips. Thanks
I was trying to figure out how you lay straight tracks as straight as possible on a layout. I'm glad I found this video. Tip #9 will certainly come in handy when I start building a layout. 👉 05:43 Those 3 foot flex tracks were very difficult to keep straight while laying them on a layout. 🥴 I'm really glad I found this video. 👏
Thanks for watching! And I'm glad I could help! If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask!
I think it's funny that a tip is how to make track straight when you think....well, you just straighten it out, right? That's how it comes, isn't it? But it indeed has some kind of flexes to it that would show or have some other effect you don't want. My N scale layout I currently have only has limited straight (tangent?) sections as it's a couple small ovals, but I'm sure this will be helpful for my HO shelf layout in progress.
Great tips. Been listening to the podcast lately and I love it.
Great tips. We are about to lay a lot of flex track and this was very helpful.
Thanks for the Bonus tip on humidifier i never thught about that and i live in Western Sydney Australia where it can get up to 40 Celsius in Summer
Thank you, Andy!... great content..
Great tips!! Will be a great help as I build my layout in the coming months. Thank you!
Good Luck with the layout build!
i have a yard stick made out of alum, fits perfectly between the rails. another one fits perfectly for track spacing. rail to rail for yards. tie to tie for mainlines.
Thanks. I can use these tips.
Great!
thanks for the tips
No problem!
Thanks, those are good ideas.
great tips Andy
The only tip I didn't follow was soldering the wire on the bottom. Might do that as I expand. Thanks!
Glad it helped
thanks for sharing
Great tips good video.
Good video. Great tips! 👍
Thanks for watching!
Great tips Andy. Tip #5 on track alignment references using PC Board ties to attach the rail to and then glue down. It appears you are soldering the rail to the PC Board. If this can be soldered, it must be conductive, so how do you keep from shorting across the rails? I have an alignment problem I am trying to fix and this seems like a great solution- except I can't figure out the shorting issue.
The PCB ties have a thin layer of copper on top the resin base. Use a needle file to wear away a strip of the copper, usually in the center of the tie. Verify there's no short across with an ammeter (or other test tool). Easy to do.
Great tips and video! Subbed.
Hi Andy, beginning at time point 5:24 in your video, you are showing two different styles of track. The track on the left side has incredibly detailed wood grain on the track ties, while the track on the right has barely any wood grain detail at all. I really like the look of the more highly detailed track on the left. Could you please reveal the brand and rail code of that track on the left. I am currently planning my first HO scale railroad and want to make the right choice for the bulk purchase of flex track that I'll need. Thanks, and great video deserving of many thumbs up!
I use Code 70 microengineering.
I think what you're saying is the weathered track on the left and un-weathered on the right. You can especially tell as there's no ballast on the right, it's just track on cork. I'm guessing there's some slight dry brush that happened on the left to accentuate the wood grain.
Great Video! Question I saw a recommendation that you paint the cork roadbed same colour as your ballast before ballasting. Will paint affect the cork roadbed later on? Your thoughts.
Some great tips , going to subscribe your channel
Great video. Awesome. New Sub
Thanks for the sub!
I might suggest that for Tip#6, instead of a tube adhesive to use PVA glue instead. It has saved me heartache: simply add a little water and within about 10 minutes with a putty knife and some patience the track can easily be moved. Let it dry and it is hard as nails and clear again!
happy new year -basic question -if i don't want to make a professional layout (landscape, cities, bridges etc), just track to run trains, what option would you recommend as trackbed except cork? thank you
I want to say? HO modeler here. Looking at N-Scale, just curious.
I have started, but because of moves, torn down model railroads.
One thing i will NEVER do again? Travk nails. I did this on my latest layout. Waste of time . Use latex caulk. Much easier
Suoer elevation? Its uo to you
Why go to rhe trouble of cork, why not use ez track or Kato untrack? I'm a newb so, sorry if it's a daft question.
Very nicely explained btw, I like your calm and to the point style. You make this all sound accessible and not overly intimidating.
ez track or Kato unitrack just don't look authentic and they won't always do what you want. With those, you're working with the lengths and curves they make (generally), instead of being able to purchase flex track and curving it like you want it, or keeping it straight. The whole point about a MODEL railroad and not a train set is that you want to look as real as possible in the small scale.
Cork in itself is an option though too. You can use something similar, like foam roadbed, or no roadbed at all. Track in real life is generally elevated, so some kind of roadbed is good, unless it's a really worn down area that isn't maintained nearly as well. One thing about cork as well is that you can sand it, as he mentioned, to even out bumps in the benchwork, like between sections of benchwork.
@andrewl9191 thanks for the explanation, appreciated 👍
Regarding cutting and filing rails, why wouldn’t it be better to use a modeling saw designed to cut them?
It’s been 45 years and I’m getting back into the hobby - if I can afford it now - lol. I still have that saw and have used it over the years for a variety of small jobs.
When is it appropriate to nail or spike flextrack as opposed to using glue or caulk? I've had good luck with caulk but if I spike then ballast I'm thinking that might hold it down nicely, too.
You can use spikes as an alternative to glue if you are unsure if the track placement it permanent. It's much easier to pull up a nail then chisel glue or caulk. Also if curves are being stubborn, you can throw a spike in there too!!
on the branch line by my they have some ties in a very stuck together and I looks like they don't really mean 10 the track well enough
TY.
how do you do with dead spots on the train tracks?
Ah my bad I’d commented before I’d got to the end of your vid
Number 4. All the wires are welded to the web on the railroad. Always thought most people tried to make it realistic as possible.
Great, but what the hell is sarder?
Nu