Thing I learned when I started out was keeping the track clean that helps keep your engines wheels clean. I’ll run a box car that has an attached cleaning head on the bottom as the train runs around the track it cleans the rails work very well.
As a noob model railroader, this was immensely helpful. Just trying to sell my Father-in-law's old O-scale setup and get a N-scale setup since I no longer have a basement. Thanks!
I've been a model railroaded since the mid 1960's and have built and used most of what you discussed. I must say I wish your video was available back when I started because you presented a lot of very valuable information in a very enjoyable way that every model rail must learn, sometimes with great difficulty and expense. In the beginning I had a lot of fumbles and a lot of "re-inventing" the wheel. You smoothed the way for a lot of railroaders entering or fairly new to our hobby. Thanks. Fantastic video. Great work... both of you.
This brings back a lot of memories from when I was younger. I had a decent amount of HO model trains. Some were my older brother's and I had some that were mine specifically. I never got into anything crazy and never really got something far enough to nail it down. My dad and I were going to build something on a plywood table and flex track, but we never got around to it.
These two guys work so good together. One dropping all kinds of knowledge in a professional way. And the other making jokes. Very interesting stuff guys. Thank you
I love to watch model trains, thinking about turning it into a hobby. Looking all over RUclips for information. Turned to your channel, and you were geekin it. I'm a senior (the squirrels don't run to fast anymore)& tech is moving faster than I can keep up with it. Thank you.
really dig the back and forth commentary between you guys. really helps out us noobs that are not familiar with it all the lingo and makes everything a bit less monotonous.
The electrical isolation is necessary if you want to divide a track into block sections for automated switching and signaling. Or at least if you want the blocks to have a clean start and stop point instead of a fuzzy zone where the same train might or might not be tripping detectors for multiple adjacent zones.
Taller or higher rail is useful if you are running older locos or rolling stock, which often need slightly more height to prevent the wheels striking the chairs holding the rail to the sleepers. You might own older locos or rolling stock or maybe pick them up at a swopmeet, shop or private sale. It is often possible to run at higher speeds more easily with the higher rail, (say Code 100 instead of Code 75). Higher rail can also be more 'forgiving' with axles that might have more play in them and thus it can help to prevent or reduce derailments. Most people viewing a layout will not make the distinction between different codes of rail, unless it is rather obvious from the modelled location, (say a mainline versus a factory siding), but if you are keen to model more authentically it will make a difference for you personally. It's the same thing, I suppose, with hand made track, where you take the time in constructing everything from the sleepers to the supporting chairs or spikes, to the rail itself. Hand made quite naturally takes more time but many modellers do gain tremendous satisfaction from this. I suppose it's all a matter of personal preference.........but hey, that is why railway, (railroad), modelling is such a wonderful hobby. James Hennighan Yorkshire, England
The term "FROG" comes from the horse-drawn days. Lift up the foot of a horse and that triangle shaped area in the bottom of the horses hoof is called the "FROG". That's the first thing we'd clean out when trimming a horses hoof or when shoeing the horse. I hope that helps a little.
Good use for insulated joiners. I have a small layout. It has 2 loops and connected with 2 turnoffs. And the center of the layout i have a 2 track storage yard with another turnoff. I have a habbit of not returning the switch to yard back to the main track. So i have insulated joiners just past the switch to the yard so in case i forget to re-throw the yard switch my active consist will stop before it smashes into my parked rolling stock. I also use Bachmann ez-mate couplers they use an under track magnet to uncouple the cars. I have an extra flat car i use to pass the insulated joiners to hook up cars.
Ties are called "sleepers" in the UK because when railways were first laid, the track gangs often slept in tents which they pitched as the trackhead advanced. Because there were many men in each tent and there was not a lot of space, they slept alongside each other in the prone position. So, if you looked in a tent, the men would be laid out similar to the wooden 'sleepers' of the track.
When railroads were first starting to pop up in the US it was generally done by a small company running between 2 towns, or maybe 2 cities and the smaller towns between. When a town already had service from one railroad and another one approached them asking for access it was fairly common for the town to require that they use a different gauge from the first railroad. The town wanted the railroads to have to unload everything from one train and load it onto another for goods passing through. The idea was that it promoted growth by creating jobs and some of those goods would be more likely to end up in the local market. This is one of the reasons why railroads developed multigauge track, it were able to transfer cars straight from one line to another and avoid that cumbersome unloading/reloading process.
Wow It's a wonderful instruction video!! Nice work. I'm from Aguascalientes, México and you remembered the former Instituto de Capacitación Ferrocarrilera from the bygone Ferrocarriles Nacionales de México where railroaders learn the ABC's of railroad. Keep doing such a great job!! CONGRATULATIONS!!!
You guys rock ! Love the way you convey the info, informal and at times humorous but ALWAYS precise and detailed without being boring : this is a rare quality so kudos to y’all ! As for real - life central third- rail lines , I can think of the line 1 (aka Red Line ) of the subway in Milan, Italy. Those who went to that city and rode the underground system know what I am referring to .
They're called sleepers here because they come from the word sleeping - to roll over, usually with timber, like if you wanted to move something heavy you could lay logs down in a row and roll a heavy object over them using them as wheels in a sense, this is called sleeping hence railway sleepers
Hello from the UK. Yes, sleepers is the correct term for what you call ties. Sometimes the joiners are called fishplates. We call your bumpers buffers and I have heard your guard rails called checkrails. Interesting video.
You can join code 100 Atlas true track to Bachman easy track by using a length of standard track with a foam or cork road bed under it, between the two types of roadbed mounted track. Atlas makes code 100 to code 83 joiners and Walters has a code 83 to code 100 adapter track so you can mix different types of track. Very useful if you have different types of track in inventory.
There's a dual gauge double cross over in alameda, ca, there's two abandoned yards, it's in the one right at the estuary not the main one, there's standard and narrow gauge there, and allot of the track is double gauge, all the Santa fe lines, and some of the southern Pacific used both from like the 20s to the 50s. If you can find old pictures of all the bay area stuff it's really amazing
@@tsgmultimedia no, but if you drive out of alameda through the tunnel, before the tunnel on thr right side of the y merge, right before that, there's a street on you're right, you'll pass over where the one main track used to be, its obvious, that tracks the main line to and through the yard, keep on that street it'll turn to the right, you'll pass over another track, that's the main line exit from the yard, the other side of the street thre track will keep going but if you go im the yard or to the edge of the road looking at the yard you can see where more tracks used to cross the street at the end of that yard other than the main track, that used to go to the secondary yard and loading yard, where they're used to be docks and everything, if you walk around there there's a really crazy amount of track, a whole lot of its dual gauge, there's so much track and switches everywhere, it's all over grown but you can walk through it you'll see really old hand switches with the tin circle plates, one side painted green thr other red, really cool, you can imagine what used to be there, the main yard is really complicated too, but not nearly as much. Like 20 years ago most of the tires were already covered in dirt and plants but you can totally see it all. I'd like to see pictures of what that place used to look like
Sleepers also refer to wooden boards in concrete for something to nail a wooden floor into. Like a floor with radiant heat since you don’t want to nail into water lines, they install sleepers to nail the floor into. Not sure the origins of the term but it is commonly used in the United States in construction.
Great video. I just want to say I use code 100 since I have some Fleischmann HO cars which have deeper flanges. This is great as derailments are reduced. Also Marklin stated with 3 rails then switched to 2 rail with studs replacing the middle rail.
THIS WAS AWESOME!!! I have really wanted to learn about tracks, and switching, and the electrical side of running the trains! This was a great video! I learned a lot!
20:11 i would like to add this - "with 18 individually controlled junction points which amounts to 10-15 twin guage double pole/throw tortouse switch machines, yes that is just a mess.
I used Kato unitrack for my n scale railroad and it made putting the track together easier. I wanted it to be realistic, though, so I ballasted it. Let me say that it is EXTREMELY difficult to not have ballast on top of the ties and it's even more so to not have it get into the switches and jamming up their insides. Still think it turned out pretty good looking though
Wooden ties or sleepers are pressure soaked in creosote or a similar preservative burning them is not recommended as they give off a poisonous smoke, originally a tarry substance was manually brushed onto each sleeper (I'm British :) ) brushes didn't last long as the 'black stuff' was near boiling when brushed onto the sleeper, the brushes lost their bristles fast and if you forgot and left a brush in the tar bucket it would by the morning cool and solidify into what could only be called a large black lollipop, some companies made you pay for the loss of brushes.............. Also the earliest sleepers were made out of stone in Liverpool at some places near where the OLD Liverpool and Manchester Railway was sited small piles of these sleepers could still be seen in the 1970's probably still can be found. It's worth noting that in cuttings were track has been pulled up (from the late 1800's to the 20's), in isolated places ,even near towns, these lonely places may have been turned into mini linear nature reserves, You can also buy Bulls-head rail (Peco sell them ) though I doubt anyone makes Bridge rail anywhere, !!
Addendum:- it took teams of 8 men in pairs to shift and place rails using a scissor like tool a short section of rail (even light rail) weighed on average an imperial ton ( 2240 lbs if memory serves...I'm 70 lol)
Most common track code for ho scale track in prefab stuff like bachmann ez and walthers snap track is code 100. They do make joiners that have code 100 and code 83 so you can use both codes together.
Great description on track! At 27:20 when you were discussing balloon tracks, another good example of that would be found at Union Pacific Colton Yard.
Nice video, concrete ties are used on express lines with seamless rails for hi speed commuter trains such as the north east corridor from New England to Metro-Washington DC. Plastic rail insulators are used on analog block systems that use multiple transformers to power a layout. Transformers are wired to power switches, switches to different sections of track with insulators to separate the sections or blocks. Hope that helps. 😀
My wife puts up an elaborate Christmas village as part of her holiday decor. The grandkids and neighbors love it! She would like me to add a simple working HO rail station and rail yard for a "Polar Express." Space (width) is limited to about 18" (up to 24" in the station or yard area). Length could be up to 10'. Can you recommend a source for track layout ideas? It has been a long time since i built a layout and I'm starting with a lot of used garage sale components. Thank you!
At 15:30, you refer to the yard track that allows other tracks to come off of it as a "ladder." Speaking as a former locomotive engineer, it is commonly refer to as a "lead track".
"dual gauge double crossover with a slip-switch in the middle" actually building absurdly intricate things like that sounds kinda fun, in the sense of 'tiny challenges'. People build all sorts of useless things for their own amusement after all.
I use mainly code 100 in HO bacause I also run older scale locomotives (models built 70+ years ago) that sometimes have larger flanges depending on the Manfacturer
I wish You Tube existed back when I put my HO on a 4x8 plywood. Now I'm thinking of setting trains back up, but do it better since I have more space. I'm a ham radio op and that's why trains got put on the back burner since I still lived with mom and dad. Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
After 42 years, I still never tire of the basics! John did a great job of acting clueless, to help the lesson!! 😀😀 Dan, again great presentation. You're showing lots of things that too many noobs are often afraid to ask. Carmine 🚂
Actually, in regards to a humorous moment in this video, real railroad track do actually use some composite or “ plastic “ parts. Non metal fish plates and insulators are used to electrically isolate sections of rail for signal control.
Excellent technical presentation--clear and understandable. Good job, but I hope that you and your viewers will nonetheless consider the following comments. As for "complex" trackwork being avoided by prototype railroads unless absolutely necessary, this is technically true, but on the other hand the prototype railroads will spare no expense or complexity to have the trackwork accomplish what is necessary to get the job done. On page 83 of John Armstrong's wonderful book, "Track Planning for Realistic Operation," there is an impressive photo of two parallel tracks crossing 8 curved tracks in a short distance. The photo caption, in part, reads: "A railroad will use any type of special trackwork where congested conditions make it necessary." This book is a must and a Bible for model railroad track planning. As for double slip switches, these also are very common in urban or other yard areas where many tracks come together for sorting, routing, or for getting a passenger train on a specific track at a depot. But the greater issue here is that "complex" trackwork in model railroading adds tremendous interest and admiration for the layout, greatly increasing switching possibilities, and variety for moving model trains. Your video makes it sound like complex trackwork should be avoided in model railroading. Actually, quite the opposite is true. Hand laying switches, diamonds, double slips, or other unique trackwork can all be made to work reliably--just follow very carefully the NMRA prescribed track standards for wheels, gauge, flangeways, etc., and your "complex" trackwork will function reliably, thusly increasing the satisfaction, as you described in the video. Reliability is not magic, or hit and miss, but from carefully and unfailingly following the standards. As for the tedium or extra work required for building complex trackwork, well, isn't that why we do this hobby?--to make an effort to build something fun and interesting? The "hard work" to build interesting trackwork is why I do it, and is the fun of it all. Also as you said, "higher number" switches are not only more attractive, they also operate more reliably. On my sectional layout, the lowest number standard gauge switch I have is a #8, and this for a coal tower spur. The rest are #'s 10, 12, and 15, including a #10 double slip. I also dabble in narrow gauge on the sectional layout, where so far all the switches are #8s. There is a standard gauge-narrow gauge merge, and a transition where the narrow gauge side on the dual-gauge spur moves to the opposite side of the standard gauge rails. Again, reliability is not magic, but from following the track standards. This kind of track work is interesting to operate on, and piques people's interest and admiration who observe it. Your discussion of rail size was excellent, though based mostly on rail sizes as it applies to HO, with a tad of N thrown in there. You also fall into a pattern that most model railroaders apparently do, though not nearly as egregiously so in your presentation as in others', where it is seemingly presumed that the only model railroading scales in existence are HO, O, and N. I know you are aware of other scales, but please don't talk as if these are the only scales that exist, by failing to mention any others. For years and years my "Bible" for all things model railroading was the Kalmback book "Practical Guide to Model Railroading," 1951 (I think). My father bought me this book along with my first train set in the 1950s. In the discussions in this excellent and still-applicable book, absolutely equal treatment was given all the different scales (O, S, HO, & TT--there was no "N" scale yet), regardless of the apparent increased popularity of one scale over another. If fact in reading the book, you would not glean from most of the discussions that one scale was more popular than another, except at one point where this is specifically stated. But in all the discussions, all the other scales were treated equally, with photos of models in all the scales, etc. I wish it were more so today, as there are some excellent modeling scales, with established NMRA standards, whose only drawback is the lack of popularity and commercial support. One other marvelous things about this old book "Practical Guide to Model Railroading" was that an increased level of initiative and craftsmanship ability was ascribed to the average modeler than is often done today--with the emphasis today largely in just purchasing ready-made locomotives, equipment, track etc., instead of emphasizing "craftsman kits" or scratch building. There are craftsmen today in model railroading, but I'd love to see a lot more of this. The Kalmbach book above treats scratchbuilding to a high degree, with drawings and plans given. Another excellent book on older scratchbuilding techniques is: "How to Build Model Railroads and Equipment," by Barton K. Davis, 1956. This is all about scratchbuilding. It even gives instructions on building a brass steamer from scratch. Why should we purchase our finest equipment at exorbitant prices from half way around the world? (But yes, I have some imported brass.) Personally, I model in "Scale S," 1:64. This is not to be confused with "American Flyer" toy trains, which share the same scale (theoretically), but where our respective equipment is mutually incompatible. In "Scale S," you can purchase the same basic two types of track that you describe in your video, basic flextrack (and similar switches), and track with plastic simulated roadbed (and related switches). But personally I like to lay my own track, with code 100, 83, and 70 rail sizes--absolutely prototypical rail sizes. A wide variety of equipment is available also in "S", from "RTR," to "shake the box kits," to "craftsman kits," and also some beautiful imported models in brass. I have some of all of these, but also I love to scratchbuild, which means that I can obtain exactly what I want, and at a very low cost. I would love to see an increase in the general craftsmanship ability of model railroaders out there. I also just wish that the model railroad "gurus" out there (like yourself) would start to acknowledge the other, very wonderful scales. It shouldn't be a junior-high popularity contest. Let's also stop being consumers and start being craftsmen, like our predecessors. If you have read all of this rant, I tip my hat to you. Thanks.
Lots of great knowledge here. Gotta' say I never even heard of some of this stuff! I had no idea that you could get different "codes" of model railroad track. Surprised that people get that crazy about it, but maybe I shouldn't be. Not sure I recall the different sizes ever being on packaging, but maybe it wasn't around back then. I probably wouldn't be too concerned about "prototypical" myself and would just use what is the easiest and most universal. Wiring looks like it could get complex after a while. Guess I was lucky that the first layout I attempted was pretty simple, so I never had any shorts, and I remember the switch track being powered by the control box thing. Wish you had talked about the different kind of metals tracks are made of. Steel, nickel, brass, etc. From what I've noticed the steel track corrodes pretty easily and has to be cleaned more often. I had some that was sitting in a box not even being used and had to clean it before I could run any trains on it! I guess the stuff I had before was nickel, think some brass too, because I never had that problem before.
You are 100% correct about how someone should have mentioned the different metals. That is important and it is a difference between tracks that may cost significantly more or less than each other, especially in Garden Scale.
Question....First off, I LOVE your tutorials. I'm 69 years old and just setting up my first HO layout and I am so excited I can't stand myself! Can't wait to start landscaping and playing...I knew where I wanted to go with my layout but had no idea how to accomplish it. Once the benchwork was done, I stumbled across a site offering free layout plans and right there on that site was my vision! Once I printed it out and got started, I discovered his layout included mostly curved track, for a 4X8 layout that's pretty standard, but he was suddenly ordering curved, 18" radius and 30, 15 and 10 degree track! Never before in all my research, and I did a lot, or in any of my shopping, and I've done a lot, have I ever even seen degrees mentioned. So I came back and looked at your All About Track tutorial and you don't mention it, either. So, what's up with that?
I know, right? I wish I could tell you how much better I feel since you didn't know either. I've since found out and thought I'd share. Basically, normal standard curved track is a 30° curve, right? Since its difficult (for some, anyway) to measure the length of a piece of curved track, instead they call a smaller piece by a smaller degree, so track that is 1/2 the length would be 15° and 10° would be 1/3 the length. Having someone finally explain it to me in terms I could understand, that is without the math, the light bulb went off. I looked at a smaller piece of curved track I had and looked at the back, and right there it says 18"Radius, 1/3. Mind. Blown. Now we both know. I have since found some Kato track that is actually described by the degrees method, but that one place is the only place I've seen it.
@@tsgmultimedia "Degrees" is made even more confusing when considering the prototype world - real rail curvature is not given in radius of curve, but rather degrees, where a tighter turn (smaller radius) is a larger degree turn. A 12deg turn in the prototype world is very tight (you machine the flanges down with the rail head), but I'm not sure what radius that would convert to (prototype or scale). I'm just getting into model RR, but the "degrees" there is quite simple, it's how much you changed direction. For example, Bachmann EZ Track with 18" radius is generally 30deg, meaning the train changed direction by 30deg (much of the old Craigslist track I just acquired has the degrees molded in). This is super useful for simple layouts - if you want to make a rounded rectangle, for instance, three 18" radius, 30deg track sections will make a 90deg curve. Visiting the local hobby shop, I noticed that Bachmann packages their EZ track in bundles that give you a full 90deg turn, you get more pieces of track in the package with shallower curvature, and the lengths are sufficient that it all adds to 90deg.
@@tsgmultimedia Just looked it up, degree of curvature for prototype railroad is based on a 100' chord length - measure from two points on the rail 100' apart in straight-line distance; the angle between each of those points and the center of the curve is the degree curvature. As I hinted before, in real track the tightest turn you'll encounter is about 12deg, but that's a radius of 478' - or 66" in HO! Often freight mainline stays below 1deg, and usually almost always under 4deg, with radii of over 1mi and 1/4mi respectively (about 790ft and 200ft' in HO scale). Unfortunately true-scale curvature would be very difficult indeed to package in any reasonable layout!
You said, that you never have been seen a standard and narrow gauge double crossover? I have got a picture of an over hundred years old offering poster of the german Joseph Voegele of Mannheim, Hessia a Railway Track Construction Company who had been built such doublegauge double crossovers for their customers. Well you disallowed me to give you a link to a picture of that over 100 years old offering poster, so I cannot share the link here. Yes, such standard and narrow gauge double crossovers had been built in the reality in the past of more than 100 years ago. Anywhere at Berlin, Germany it are existing a double Trackline double Crossover, of which is still in use today, to allow sevrral Interurban Semi fast Metroplitan Trains to crossing over into several different diverging ways. Another interesting RR facility is a 5 Star Reversing facility one is still existing in Cyprus and another maybe still abdobed had been in the past in the Alps in northern Italy to reverse longer steam locomotives who were too big or too long for any turntable.
They do not jump the gap the wheel flanges actually ride on the bottom of the frog on full scale. And the term frog comes for the part of a horse's hoof it resembles.
@@matthewq4b Which in turn gained it's name from one of several origins, the two most popular being that it comes from the German "frosch", meaning the bottom of a horse's good, or more likely from a talisman worn by early horsemen, made from the y-shaped bone of a frog, which the horse's frog resembles very closely.
Frog -- looks to me a lot like the frog on the bottom of a horses's hoof! That's the v-shaped part at the back. Now, why is that part of the hoof called a frog....? I have no idea. Thanks for the video -- very informative.
the rail insulators were more commonly used before DCC was a thing. you would "zone" your track giving you control of different locomotives at different speeds running at the same time..... of course you would have to have them on separate pieces of track for it to work.
Suggestion for a future "101" series... "Types Of Layouts". Like what is a Point to Point, or a Switching Layout, or a Main Line with Sidings, etc., etc.? You guys are doing great work!
Excellent tutorial. I've been a model railroader for 60 years now and i mostly hand lay my track these days. I scratch build stub switches that need the frogs insulated. You brought to my attention there are devices called Frog Juicers. Where can these be purchased? It would definitely simplify the method I'm currently using to change the polarity of the frogs. Thank for sharing this video.
22:03 the Marklin H0 pre-fab track has always had the 3rd rail studs coloured dark and pointing up through the sleepers. So it's not as obvious or ugly as the 3 rail Lionel track. The biggest downside of Marklin is the shoe that drags along the middle spur, which can get stuck on isolated parts of switches. So you always have to carry a certain minimum momentum to get the locomotive over a switch.
The narrative of “Easement” is wrongly described. The description is indeed that of a "Transition Curve". That is a curve which starts shallow, tightens gradually and then transitions to shallow again. However “Easement” IS a very necessary requirement for curves in the full size world. It refers to the necessity of widening the gauge (setting the rails slightly further apart than standard) through a curve in order to ease the free passage of rigid multi-wheel sets. If this were not done, the flanges of the rigid wheel sets would unavoidably grind and bind on the inside edges of the rails, creating much friction, immense squealing noise, tremendous wear on wheels and rails and possibly even derailment.
You are correct. The person providing most of the information wasn't always completely accurate with everything. You comment is correct and also appreciated. Transition curve and Spiral curve is what I have since come to learn is the name for the curves being referred to in the video incorrectly.
Rule #1, "It's My Railroad." Thanks for the useful information. We can debate all day long whether 3 rail track is realistic, but I like Lionel so 3 rail it is!
Very nice video for a brand new beginner. I did notice that the "frog" on the switch looks exactly like the "frog" on the bottom of a horse's hoof but I haven't seen that given as a reason anywhere. Just saying.
As far as "sleepers" go I always thought a "track bed " made sense because ballast is like a sheet over the ( the particular terrain ) like a sheet over a mattress, The sleeper lays over the sheet but under the rail which would be the top layer blanket or quilt if you like of the track . Google says I'm wrong 🤔but I'm not overly convinced 😆🤷♂️
I remember talking with one of my rail fan friends about why some heavy cargo rails still have wooden ties. Near where we're at, they've been converting over to concrete ties, but they quickly found out that those concrete ties weren't strong enough for the heavy auto racks they ran through, causing a derailment. They're now reinstalling new wooden ties on this line because they can support the weight and NVH that these cars have. Some food for thought.
Love your series. Puzzled on Dan's comment about using code 83 on mainline and 70 on spurs/yard, and sometimes even down to code 50's? How low can you go without having the Kadee couplers hitting the ties on the low code rails?
Thx for beginners track episode 12. Learned more than I wanted or need to know. I am experiencing several sizes of joiners which has bersrsen causing failure of track smooth line up, one track is just slightly raised more than the other side. What is causing this. Joiners. How about a response Dan.
Thing I learned when I started out was keeping the track clean that helps keep your engines wheels clean. I’ll run a box car that has an attached cleaning head on the bottom as the train runs around the track it cleans the rails work very well.
Dear TSG Media, just getting started at 57 yrs and found this very informative and well paced. Thank you for your time and expertise.
You're most welcome! Welcome aboard!
As a noob model railroader, this was immensely helpful. Just trying to sell my Father-in-law's old O-scale setup and get a N-scale setup since I no longer have a basement. Thanks!
A great review. In the future could you explain kadee couplers? There are so many types. Thanks.
I've been a model railroaded since the mid 1960's and have built and used most of what you discussed. I must say I wish your video was available back when I started because you presented a lot of very valuable information in a very enjoyable way that every model rail must learn, sometimes with great difficulty and expense. In the beginning I had a lot of fumbles and a lot of "re-inventing" the wheel. You smoothed the way for a lot of railroaders entering or fairly new to our hobby. Thanks. Fantastic video. Great work... both of you.
Thanks, Grant. Comments like these are nice to hear!
This brings back a lot of memories from when I was younger. I had a decent amount of HO model trains. Some were my older brother's and I had some that were mine specifically. I never got into anything crazy and never really got something far enough to nail it down. My dad and I were going to build something on a plywood table and flex track, but we never got around to it.
$40 for plywood and you can start making some memories
These two guys work so good together. One dropping all kinds of knowledge in a professional way. And the other making jokes. Very interesting stuff guys. Thank you
That was the formula I was going for. Glad you enjoyed it! Feel free to share the link with friends if you know anyone who would enjoy it.
I love to watch model trains, thinking about turning it into a hobby. Looking all over RUclips for information. Turned to your channel, and you were geekin it. I'm a senior (the squirrels don't run to fast anymore)& tech is moving faster than I can keep up with it. Thank you.
really dig the back and forth commentary between you guys. really helps out us noobs that are not familiar with it all the lingo and makes everything a bit less monotonous.
Thanks for the compliment! Please share our content if you have friends who might enjoy it!
The electrical isolation is necessary if you want to divide a track into block sections for automated switching and signaling. Or at least if you want the blocks to have a clean start and stop point instead of a fuzzy zone where the same train might or might not be tripping detectors for multiple adjacent zones.
Taller or higher rail is useful if you are running older locos or rolling stock, which often need slightly more height to prevent the wheels striking the chairs holding the rail to the sleepers. You might own older locos or rolling stock or maybe pick them up at a swopmeet, shop or private sale.
It is often possible to run at higher speeds more easily with the higher rail, (say Code 100 instead of Code 75). Higher rail can also be more 'forgiving' with axles that might have more play in them and thus it can help to prevent or reduce derailments.
Most people viewing a layout will not make the distinction between different codes of rail, unless it is rather obvious from the modelled location, (say a mainline versus a factory siding), but if you are keen to model more authentically it will make a difference for you personally.
It's the same thing, I suppose, with hand made track, where you take the time in constructing everything from the sleepers to the supporting chairs or spikes, to the rail itself. Hand made quite naturally takes more time but many modellers do gain tremendous satisfaction from this.
I suppose it's all a matter of personal preference.........but hey, that is why railway, (railroad), modelling is such a wonderful hobby.
James Hennighan
Yorkshire, England
The term "FROG" comes from the horse-drawn days. Lift up the foot of a horse and that triangle shaped area in the bottom of the horses hoof is called the "FROG". That's the first thing we'd clean out when trimming a horses hoof or when shoeing the horse. I hope that helps a little.
I’ve been a model railroad for over 10 years and I still learn something new I always get a few laughs from these videos
We appreciate the feedback, and "mission accomplished."
This video is one of the first that I watched when I got started with my N scale layout. Very nice overview.
It's called a frog because it resemble the "frog" that is part of a horses foot, underneath.
Good use for insulated joiners. I have a small layout. It has 2 loops and connected with 2 turnoffs. And the center of the layout i have a 2 track storage yard with another turnoff. I have a habbit of not returning the switch to yard back to the main track. So i have insulated joiners just past the switch to the yard so in case i forget to re-throw the yard switch my active consist will stop before it smashes into my parked rolling stock. I also use Bachmann ez-mate couplers they use an under track magnet to uncouple the cars. I have an extra flat car i use to pass the insulated joiners to hook up cars.
Insulated track joiners are used for DC layouts that loop back on each other. So a positive rail doesn’t touch a negative one.
Ties are called "sleepers" in the UK because when railways were first laid, the track gangs often slept in tents which they pitched as the trackhead advanced. Because there were many men in each tent and there was not a lot of space, they slept alongside each other in the prone position. So, if you looked in a tent, the men would be laid out similar to the wooden 'sleepers' of the track.
Hmmm...I'm not sure if I buy that! LOL. That sounds like an old tale to me...but who knows! :)
@@TheStoneWhisperer maybe, its an interesting story though =D
We call them sleepers in Australia too
I thought they were called Sleepers in the US too...
Wow, the best I have seen at teaching building a model railroad. Thanks.
When railroads were first starting to pop up in the US it was generally done by a small company running between 2 towns, or maybe 2 cities and the smaller towns between. When a town already had service from one railroad and another one approached them asking for access it was fairly common for the town to require that they use a different gauge from the first railroad. The town wanted the railroads to have to unload everything from one train and load it onto another for goods passing through. The idea was that it promoted growth by creating jobs and some of those goods would be more likely to end up in the local market.
This is one of the reasons why railroads developed multigauge track, it were able to transfer cars straight from one line to another and avoid that cumbersome unloading/reloading process.
Wow It's a wonderful instruction video!! Nice work. I'm from Aguascalientes, México and you remembered the former Instituto de Capacitación Ferrocarrilera from the bygone Ferrocarriles Nacionales de México where railroaders learn the ABC's of railroad. Keep doing such a great job!! CONGRATULATIONS!!!
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You guys rock ! Love the way you convey the info, informal and at times humorous but ALWAYS precise and detailed without being boring : this is a rare quality so kudos to y’all ! As for real - life central third- rail lines , I can think of the line 1 (aka Red Line ) of the subway in Milan, Italy. Those who went to that city and rode the underground system know what I am referring to .
They're called sleepers here because they come from the word sleeping - to roll over, usually with timber, like if you wanted to move something heavy you could lay logs down in a row and roll a heavy object over them using them as wheels in a sense, this is called sleeping hence railway sleepers
Hello from the UK. Yes, sleepers is the correct term for what you call ties. Sometimes the joiners are called fishplates. We call your bumpers buffers and I have heard your guard rails called checkrails. Interesting video.
You can join code 100 Atlas true track to Bachman easy track by using a length of standard track with a foam or cork road bed under it, between the two types of roadbed mounted track. Atlas makes code 100 to code 83 joiners and Walters has a code 83 to code 100 adapter track so you can mix different types of track. Very useful if you have different types of track in inventory.
3:14 Life-Like makes/made adapters to fit Bachmann EZ track and the others, so that's a thing
There's a dual gauge double cross over in alameda, ca, there's two abandoned yards, it's in the one right at the estuary not the main one, there's standard and narrow gauge there, and allot of the track is double gauge, all the Santa fe lines, and some of the southern Pacific used both from like the 20s to the 50s. If you can find old pictures of all the bay area stuff it's really amazing
That sounds cool! Do you happen to have the coordinates for that site?
@@tsgmultimedia no, but if you drive out of alameda through the tunnel, before the tunnel on thr right side of the y merge, right before that, there's a street on you're right, you'll pass over where the one main track used to be, its obvious, that tracks the main line to and through the yard, keep on that street it'll turn to the right, you'll pass over another track, that's the main line exit from the yard, the other side of the street thre track will keep going but if you go im the yard or to the edge of the road looking at the yard you can see where more tracks used to cross the street at the end of that yard other than the main track, that used to go to the secondary yard and loading yard, where they're used to be docks and everything, if you walk around there there's a really crazy amount of track, a whole lot of its dual gauge, there's so much track and switches everywhere, it's all over grown but you can walk through it you'll see really old hand switches with the tin circle plates, one side painted green thr other red, really cool, you can imagine what used to be there, the main yard is really complicated too, but not nearly as much. Like 20 years ago most of the tires were already covered in dirt and plants but you can totally see it all. I'd like to see pictures of what that place used to look like
Dual gauge tracks are very common in many places. Bangladesh uses it extensively as well as in India (Darjeeling Himalayan Railway)
Sleepers also refer to wooden boards in concrete for something to nail a wooden floor into. Like a floor with radiant heat since you don’t want to nail into water lines, they install sleepers to nail the floor into. Not sure the origins of the term but it is commonly used in the United States in construction.
Great video. I just want to say I use code 100 since I have some Fleischmann HO cars which have deeper flanges. This is great as derailments are reduced. Also Marklin stated with 3 rails then switched to 2 rail with studs replacing the middle rail.
THIS WAS AWESOME!!! I have really wanted to learn about tracks, and switching, and the electrical side of running the trains! This was a great video! I learned a lot!
20:11 i would like to add this - "with 18 individually controlled junction points which amounts to 10-15 twin guage double pole/throw tortouse switch machines, yes that is just a mess.
A great guide to building a dual gauge double slip crossover. Thought that was funny. Great primer if starting over again. Begin from the beginning.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I used Kato unitrack for my n scale railroad and it made putting the track together easier. I wanted it to be realistic, though, so I ballasted it. Let me say that it is EXTREMELY difficult to not have ballast on top of the ties and it's even more so to not have it get into the switches and jamming up their insides. Still think it turned out pretty good looking though
Wooden ties or sleepers are pressure soaked in creosote or a similar preservative burning them is not recommended as they give off a poisonous smoke, originally a tarry substance was manually brushed onto each sleeper (I'm British :) ) brushes didn't last long as the 'black stuff' was near boiling when brushed onto the sleeper, the brushes lost their bristles fast and if you forgot and left a brush in the tar bucket it would by the morning cool and solidify into what could only be called a large black lollipop, some companies made you pay for the loss of brushes.............. Also the earliest sleepers were made out of stone in Liverpool at some places near where the OLD Liverpool and Manchester Railway was sited small piles of these sleepers could still be seen in the 1970's probably still can be found. It's worth noting that in cuttings were track has been pulled up (from the late 1800's to the 20's), in isolated places ,even near towns, these lonely places may have been turned into mini linear nature reserves, You can also buy Bulls-head rail (Peco sell them ) though I doubt anyone makes Bridge rail anywhere, !!
Addendum:- it took teams of 8 men in pairs to shift and place rails using a scissor like tool a short section of rail (even light rail) weighed on average an imperial ton ( 2240 lbs if memory serves...I'm 70 lol)
Most common track code for ho scale track in prefab stuff like bachmann ez and walthers snap track is code 100. They do make joiners that have code 100 and code 83 so you can use both codes together.
Keep the 101 series coming. Discussing wiring the different track like return loops and wyes would be helpful. Keep the good work up.
At Leamon Place Junction they have both concrete and wooden ties because of the Strasburg railroad
Great description on track! At 27:20 when you were discussing balloon tracks, another good example of that would be found at Union Pacific Colton Yard.
I mentioned West Colton toward the end of that part. :D
Nice video, concrete ties are used on express lines with seamless rails for hi speed commuter trains such as the north east corridor from New England to Metro-Washington DC. Plastic rail insulators are used on analog block systems that use multiple transformers to power a layout. Transformers are wired to power switches, switches to different sections of track with insulators to separate the sections or blocks. Hope that helps. 😀
UK
Joiner - Fish Plate
Pin - Pig Tail
Ties - Sleeper
The meaning "Sleeper" came from laying the timber down on the bed
I'm a O gauge RR. From all the different model RR I seen the only one that uses staging yards is HO, N & Z. Same for them helix runners.
Loved the graffiti on the box cars!
My wife puts up an elaborate Christmas village as part of her holiday decor. The grandkids and neighbors love it! She would like me to add a simple working HO rail station and rail yard for a "Polar Express." Space (width) is limited to about 18" (up to 24" in the station or yard area). Length could be up to 10'. Can you recommend a source for track layout ideas? It has been a long time since i built a layout and I'm starting with a lot of used garage sale components. Thank you!
Love the question and answer format
At 15:30, you refer to the yard track that allows other tracks to come off of it as a "ladder." Speaking as a former locomotive engineer, it is commonly refer to as a "lead track".
"dual gauge double crossover with a slip-switch in the middle" actually building absurdly intricate things like that sounds kinda fun, in the sense of 'tiny challenges'. People build all sorts of useless things for their own amusement after all.
You two guys are GREAT.
I am most obliged for this - thanks gents
I use mainly code 100 in HO bacause I also run older scale locomotives (models built 70+ years ago) that sometimes have larger flanges depending on the Manfacturer
I wish You Tube existed back when I put my HO on a 4x8 plywood. Now I'm thinking of setting trains back up, but do it better since I have more space. I'm a ham radio op and that's why trains got put on the back burner since I still lived with mom and dad. Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
@@ajeshjayan9951 ... STOP SPAMMING VIDEOS WITH YOUR SPIEL.
I blocked the spammer from posting to the channel. Thanks for calling it out!
After 42 years, I still never tire of the basics! John did a great job of acting clueless, to help the lesson!! 😀😀 Dan, again great presentation. You're showing lots of things that too many noobs are often afraid to ask.
Carmine 🚂
Afraid to ask or misinformed by others who never bothered to figure out accurate info.
I'd say both.... Sadly, in my experience, the misinformed are often the hardest to retrain.
Actually, in regards to a humorous moment in this video, real railroad track do actually use some composite or “ plastic “ parts. Non metal fish plates and insulators are used to electrically isolate sections of rail for signal control.
Excellent technical presentation--clear and understandable. Good job, but I hope that you and your viewers will nonetheless consider the following comments.
As for "complex" trackwork being avoided by prototype railroads unless absolutely necessary, this is technically true, but on the other hand the prototype railroads will spare no expense or complexity to have the trackwork accomplish what is necessary to get the job done. On page 83 of John Armstrong's wonderful book, "Track Planning for Realistic Operation," there is an impressive photo of two parallel tracks crossing 8 curved tracks in a short distance. The photo caption, in part, reads: "A railroad will use any type of special trackwork where congested conditions make it necessary." This book is a must and a Bible for model railroad track planning. As for double slip switches, these also are very common in urban or other yard areas where many tracks come together for sorting, routing, or for getting a passenger train on a specific track at a depot.
But the greater issue here is that "complex" trackwork in model railroading adds tremendous interest and admiration for the layout, greatly increasing switching possibilities, and variety for moving model trains. Your video makes it sound like complex trackwork should be avoided in model railroading. Actually, quite the opposite is true.
Hand laying switches, diamonds, double slips, or other unique trackwork can all be made to work reliably--just follow very carefully the NMRA prescribed track standards for wheels, gauge, flangeways, etc., and your "complex" trackwork will function reliably, thusly increasing the satisfaction, as you described in the video. Reliability is not magic, or hit and miss, but from carefully and unfailingly following the standards. As for the tedium or extra work required for building complex trackwork, well, isn't that why we do this hobby?--to make an effort to build something fun and interesting? The "hard work" to build interesting trackwork is why I do it, and is the fun of it all.
Also as you said, "higher number" switches are not only more attractive, they also operate more reliably. On my sectional layout, the lowest number standard gauge switch I have is a #8, and this for a coal tower spur. The rest are #'s 10, 12, and 15, including a #10 double slip. I also dabble in narrow gauge on the sectional layout, where so far all the switches are #8s. There is a standard gauge-narrow gauge merge, and a transition where the narrow gauge side on the dual-gauge spur moves to the opposite side of the standard gauge rails. Again, reliability is not magic, but from following the track standards. This kind of track work is interesting to operate on, and piques people's interest and admiration who observe it.
Your discussion of rail size was excellent, though based mostly on rail sizes as it applies to HO, with a tad of N thrown in there.
You also fall into a pattern that most model railroaders apparently do, though not nearly as egregiously so in your presentation as in others', where it is seemingly presumed that the only model railroading scales in existence are HO, O, and N. I know you are aware of other scales, but please don't talk as if these are the only scales that exist, by failing to mention any others.
For years and years my "Bible" for all things model railroading was the Kalmback book "Practical Guide to Model Railroading," 1951 (I think). My father bought me this book along with my first train set in the 1950s. In the discussions in this excellent and still-applicable book, absolutely equal treatment was given all the different scales (O, S, HO, & TT--there was no "N" scale yet), regardless of the apparent increased popularity of one scale over another. If fact in reading the book, you would not glean from most of the discussions that one scale was more popular than another, except at one point where this is specifically stated. But in all the discussions, all the other scales were treated equally, with photos of models in all the scales, etc. I wish it were more so today, as there are some excellent modeling scales, with established NMRA standards, whose only drawback is the lack of popularity and commercial support.
One other marvelous things about this old book "Practical Guide to Model Railroading" was that an increased level of initiative and craftsmanship ability was ascribed to the average modeler than is often done today--with the emphasis today largely in just purchasing ready-made locomotives, equipment, track etc., instead of emphasizing "craftsman kits" or scratch building. There are craftsmen today in model railroading, but I'd love to see a lot more of this. The Kalmbach book above treats scratchbuilding to a high degree, with drawings and plans given.
Another excellent book on older scratchbuilding techniques is: "How to Build Model Railroads and Equipment," by Barton K. Davis, 1956. This is all about scratchbuilding. It even gives instructions on building a brass steamer from scratch. Why should we purchase our finest equipment at exorbitant prices from half way around the world? (But yes, I have some imported brass.)
Personally, I model in "Scale S," 1:64. This is not to be confused with "American Flyer" toy trains, which share the same scale (theoretically), but where our respective equipment is mutually incompatible. In "Scale S," you can purchase the same basic two types of track that you describe in your video, basic flextrack (and similar switches), and track with plastic simulated roadbed (and related switches). But personally I like to lay my own track, with code 100, 83, and 70 rail sizes--absolutely prototypical rail sizes. A wide variety of equipment is available also in "S", from "RTR," to "shake the box kits," to "craftsman kits," and also some beautiful imported models in brass. I have some of all of these, but also I love to scratchbuild, which means that I can obtain exactly what I want, and at a very low cost.
I would love to see an increase in the general craftsmanship ability of model railroaders out there. I also just wish that the model railroad "gurus" out there (like yourself) would start to acknowledge the other, very wonderful scales. It shouldn't be a junior-high popularity contest. Let's also stop being consumers and start being craftsmen, like our predecessors. If you have read all of this rant, I tip my hat to you. Thanks.
There were no gurus involved in the production of this video.
@@tsgmultimedia Sorry for the use of that word, but that wasn't my point.
Lots of great knowledge here. Gotta' say I never even heard of some of this stuff!
I had no idea that you could get different "codes" of model railroad track. Surprised that people get that crazy about it, but maybe I shouldn't be. Not sure I recall the different sizes ever being on packaging, but maybe it wasn't around back then. I probably wouldn't be too concerned about "prototypical" myself and would just use what is the easiest and most universal.
Wiring looks like it could get complex after a while. Guess I was lucky that the first layout I attempted was pretty simple, so I never had any shorts, and I remember the switch track being powered by the control box thing.
Wish you had talked about the different kind of metals tracks are made of. Steel, nickel, brass, etc. From what I've noticed the steel track corrodes pretty easily and has to be cleaned more often. I had some that was sitting in a box not even being used and had to clean it before I could run any trains on it! I guess the stuff I had before was nickel, think some brass too, because I never had that problem before.
You are 100% correct about how someone should have mentioned the different metals. That is important and it is a difference between tracks that may cost significantly more or less than each other, especially in Garden Scale.
7:00 is for signal lights so another wire is used and connected to the rail so the is a signal
Question....First off, I LOVE your tutorials. I'm 69 years old and just setting up my first HO layout and I am so excited I can't stand myself! Can't wait to start landscaping and playing...I knew where I wanted to go with my layout but had no idea how to accomplish it. Once the benchwork was done, I stumbled across a site offering free layout plans and right there on that site was my vision! Once I printed it out and got started, I discovered his layout included mostly curved track, for a 4X8 layout that's pretty standard, but he was suddenly ordering curved, 18" radius and 30, 15 and 10 degree track! Never before in all my research, and I did a lot, or in any of my shopping, and I've done a lot, have I ever even seen degrees mentioned. So I came back and looked at your All About Track tutorial and you don't mention it, either. So, what's up with that?
I haven't seen degrees mentioned either. Maybe because people build layouts with rulers and not compasses...?
I know, right? I wish I could tell you how much better I feel since you didn't know either. I've since found out and thought I'd share. Basically, normal standard curved track is a 30° curve, right? Since its difficult (for some, anyway) to measure the length of a piece of curved track, instead they call a smaller piece by a smaller degree, so track that is 1/2 the length would be 15° and 10° would be 1/3 the length. Having someone finally explain it to me in terms I could understand, that is without the math, the light bulb went off. I looked at a smaller piece of curved track I had and looked at the back, and right there it says 18"Radius, 1/3. Mind. Blown. Now we both know. I have since found some Kato track that is actually described by the degrees method, but that one place is the only place I've seen it.
@@tsgmultimedia "Degrees" is made even more confusing when considering the prototype world - real rail curvature is not given in radius of curve, but rather degrees, where a tighter turn (smaller radius) is a larger degree turn. A 12deg turn in the prototype world is very tight (you machine the flanges down with the rail head), but I'm not sure what radius that would convert to (prototype or scale).
I'm just getting into model RR, but the "degrees" there is quite simple, it's how much you changed direction. For example, Bachmann EZ Track with 18" radius is generally 30deg, meaning the train changed direction by 30deg (much of the old Craigslist track I just acquired has the degrees molded in). This is super useful for simple layouts - if you want to make a rounded rectangle, for instance, three 18" radius, 30deg track sections will make a 90deg curve. Visiting the local hobby shop, I noticed that Bachmann packages their EZ track in bundles that give you a full 90deg turn, you get more pieces of track in the package with shallower curvature, and the lengths are sufficient that it all adds to 90deg.
@@tsgmultimedia Just looked it up, degree of curvature for prototype railroad is based on a 100' chord length - measure from two points on the rail 100' apart in straight-line distance; the angle between each of those points and the center of the curve is the degree curvature. As I hinted before, in real track the tightest turn you'll encounter is about 12deg, but that's a radius of 478' - or 66" in HO! Often freight mainline stays below 1deg, and usually almost always under 4deg, with radii of over 1mi and 1/4mi respectively (about 790ft and 200ft' in HO scale). Unfortunately true-scale curvature would be very difficult indeed to package in any reasonable layout!
We also say railway in the UK. I don't know why we call them sleepers here, maybe it's because they lie down? Good video, very informative.
We say railway in the UK because that's where it was invented!
I've been modling for awhile, but still learned some stuff from this. Good job!
Some type of railway track in the uk have 3 and 4 rails for electricity like overhead electric cable
You said, that you never have been seen a standard and narrow gauge double crossover?
I have got a picture of an over hundred years old offering poster of the german Joseph Voegele of Mannheim, Hessia a Railway Track Construction Company who had been built such doublegauge double crossovers for their customers.
Well you disallowed me to give you a link to a picture of that over 100 years old offering poster, so I cannot share the link here. Yes, such standard and narrow gauge double crossovers had been built in the reality in the past of more than 100 years ago.
Anywhere at Berlin, Germany it are existing a double Trackline double Crossover, of which is still in use today, to allow sevrral Interurban Semi fast Metroplitan Trains to crossing over into several different diverging ways.
Another interesting RR facility is a 5 Star Reversing facility one is still existing in Cyprus and another maybe still abdobed had been in the past in the Alps in northern Italy to reverse longer steam locomotives who were too big or too long for any turntable.
Excellent tutorial on track learn a lot of things I did not know
Frog, because the wheel of the trains "jump" the gap like a frog. This is how it was explained to me.
They do not jump the gap the wheel flanges actually ride on the bottom of the frog on full scale. And the term frog comes for the part of a horse's hoof it resembles.
@@matthewq4b Which in turn gained it's name from one of several origins, the two most popular being that it comes from the German "frosch", meaning the bottom of a horse's good, or more likely from a talisman worn by early horsemen, made from the y-shaped bone of a frog, which the horse's frog resembles very closely.
@@davidrahl240 Gotta be one in every crowd, and your're it.
Frog -- looks to me a lot like the frog on the bottom of a horses's hoof! That's the v-shaped part at the back. Now, why is that part of the hoof called a frog....? I have no idea. Thanks for the video -- very informative.
The term frog comes from the part of a horse's hoof it resembles.
I will second that.
There's lots of rocking jams on some of these model railroading videos.... this is a more hardcore hobby than I thought xD
And they get more hardcore the deeper into the series you delve!
the rail insulators were more commonly used before DCC was a thing. you would "zone" your track giving you control of different locomotives at different speeds running at the same time..... of course you would have to have them on separate pieces of track for it to work.
I can see uncle Jimmy coming drunker than drunk and saying "hey that looks like a frog"
14:26
Suggestion for a future "101" series... "Types Of Layouts". Like what is a Point to Point, or a Switching Layout, or a Main Line with Sidings, etc., etc.? You guys are doing great work!
This is a good idea. "Track configurations" is on our list of possible future programs.
Adding RR terminology to go along with it would also be very helpful. Beyond the most basic stuff.
Excellent tutorial. I've been a model railroader for 60 years now and i mostly hand lay my track these days. I scratch build stub switches that need the frogs insulated. You brought to my attention there are devices called Frog Juicers. Where can these be purchased? It would definitely simplify the method I'm currently using to change the polarity of the frogs. Thank for sharing this video.
Tam Valley make single and multiple frog juicers.
Sleeper is a carpentry term describing wood laid on its broadest side and has probable been in use for a thousand years.
Insulated rail joiners are essential for reverse loops.
These are awesome tutorials! Thank you.
Lets rethink with RC battery powered cab control No need for track elelctrics . Now can we please start with how to make our own track ?
22:03 the Marklin H0 pre-fab track has always had the 3rd rail studs coloured dark and pointing up through the sleepers. So it's not as obvious or ugly as the 3 rail Lionel track.
The biggest downside of Marklin is the shoe that drags along the middle spur, which can get stuck on isolated parts of switches. So you always have to carry a certain minimum momentum to get the locomotive over a switch.
The narrative of “Easement” is wrongly described. The description is indeed that of a "Transition Curve". That is a curve which starts shallow, tightens gradually and then transitions to shallow again. However “Easement” IS a very necessary requirement for curves in the full size world. It refers to the necessity of widening the gauge (setting the rails slightly further apart than standard) through a curve in order to ease the free passage of rigid multi-wheel sets. If this were not done, the flanges of the rigid wheel sets would unavoidably grind and bind on the inside edges of the rails, creating much friction, immense squealing noise, tremendous wear on wheels and rails and possibly even derailment.
You are correct. The person providing most of the information wasn't always completely accurate with everything. You comment is correct and also appreciated. Transition curve and Spiral curve is what I have since come to learn is the name for the curves being referred to in the video incorrectly.
Rule #1, "It's My Railroad." Thanks for the useful information. We can debate all day long whether 3 rail track is realistic, but I like Lionel so 3 rail it is!
3 rail for life
Not just drumming... but studly drumming!
Nice.
You got it!
Really neat. Now we really have to come for a visit!
Very Good! Useful info.
Very nice video for a brand new beginner. I did notice that the "frog" on the switch looks exactly like the "frog" on the bottom of a horse's hoof but I haven't seen that given as a reason anywhere. Just saying.
Brilliant and entertaining intro to track! Thanks for sharing
This I needed thank you for sharing
EXCELLENT VIDEO THANK YOU
just cut a piece each of kato and bachmann in half butt the cut ends together boom, you have two K/B adapter sections!
Is that Death Track playing the opening theme song?
They rock but really roll!
As far as "sleepers" go I always thought a "track bed " made sense because ballast is like a sheet over the ( the particular terrain ) like a sheet over a mattress, The sleeper lays over the sheet but under the rail which would be the top layer blanket or quilt if you like of the track . Google says I'm wrong 🤔but I'm not overly convinced 😆🤷♂️
Wow thanks for the info!
21:50 it looks just like some of the London Underground tracks, with the third rail in the middle.
Hey there John and Dan! This is Nate and I would like to say that is some cool railroad tracks for beginners you have there. I have some regular ones.
Thanks for watching!
you have toooo mush fun thank you
Great information! Thank you.
good old youtube. this video just came up as new for you. lol,, looks a little bit ( not new ) nice video. nice to see all the different kinds.
Excellent. I was wondering what the different codes of track meant. Now I know!
It's good to know, especially if you are worried about making your layout look as prototypical as possible.
I remember talking with one of my rail fan friends about why some heavy cargo rails still have wooden ties. Near where we're at, they've been converting over to concrete ties, but they quickly found out that those concrete ties weren't strong enough for the heavy auto racks they ran through, causing a derailment. They're now reinstalling new wooden ties on this line because they can support the weight and NVH that these cars have. Some food for thought.
Super cool video, thanks for sharing
16:25 I just learned that, thanks!
Love your series. Puzzled on Dan's comment about using code 83 on mainline and 70 on spurs/yard, and sometimes even down to code 50's? How low can you go without having the Kadee couplers hitting the ties on the low code rails?
What I do for hand made rails is I soak the wood in tea so it gives a withered appereance
A have a DC layout, I bought a few DCC switches, still worked good with what I do !
awesome video
Thx for beginners track episode 12. Learned more than I wanted or need to know. I am experiencing several sizes of joiners which has bersrsen causing failure of track smooth line up, one track is just slightly raised more than the other side. What is causing this. Joiners. How about a response Dan.
3rd rail is occasionally used in the real world instead of overhead wires a good example being the london underground
Third rail is used all over Britain due to low tunnels and bridges that were built in the 1800s before electrification was even thought of.