I just visited a model train show today and walked out with a whole stack of track, a bag of cars, two locomotives, and a very excited daughter. We're looking forward to putting an HO DC set together. We bought the parts from various clubs and nice older gentlemen feom clubs who were happy to see newcomers to the hobby. This will be fun!
Thanks Peter, really glad to hear you're enjoying all the different videos! It's great to see that even those who have already had layouts in the past are still interested in this tutorial series so thanks for watching 😃
Ah I see what you did there 😉 My pleasure, I like to think these simple tutorial videos will inspire some people to just give it a go. Thanks for watching 👍
I use Copydex (latex adhesive) instead of P VA. Track can be easily lifted with a palette knife and the adhesive peeled away. Lifting track laid with screws or pins can result in damage to the sleepers.
Yep, I've used spray glue on the cork and track in the past too and I've found it's great if you're working quickly. As this is a tutorial for complete beginners though I was just trying to keep it as simple as possible, hence the more traditional PVA and track pins route. Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks! Yeah my aim with these is that a beginner could go away feeling like they could do it themselves, so I hope it helps a few people get started on their own layouts.. Thanks for watching 😃
Yes you will need Rail Joiners, also known as Fishplates. These connect the track together and allow the power to flow round the layout. Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks Tom! Really glad to hear that, I do hope that this little series inspires a few people out there to get started on their first layout. Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks for watching everyone! Check out the description for links to the products used. Don't forget you can catch up with the other videos in this series here: ruclips.net/p/PLrxCs5t2FkmwrlGe3uA8naYkBug7g-u7N
Hello im a beginner and your videos are exactly what i need for me to understand the basics , i do try to avoid watching the large layouts, yes very nice and they do show what can be done, but they can be quite technical and i just dont know what it is they are talking about ? So what better than to learn the basics , ive just subscribed and liked this how to build your layout board, and look forward to watching and learning from your other videos Paul
I'm really glad you've found the videos useful Paul! I do try to keep them as easy and accessible as possible rather than ramble on about unnecessary jargon for ages or making things way too complicated 😅 This particular series was all about showing the basics with the aim of giving complete beginners a nudge in the right direction without overloading them with information so hopefully it's worked. Thanks for watching 👍
Hi joe can I’m thinking about subscribing to model railway magazine or continental modeller magazine and have them sent to me digitally ,Which of these would you recommend ? I am a beginner so wouldn’t want anything to technical or should I just continue watching you tube Paul
Thank you this is very helpful! Question though: I am struggling to decide on the size of my table and layout because my understanding is that minimum radius for OO is 500mm. It makes it difficult to have a double curve and leave space for hills etc, even on a 1.5mx3m table as I am planning. Yet I see lot's of 1.2 x 2.4 layouts (4x8feet). How do modellers fit OO gauge on such a small table?
I don't know where you've got 500mm as a minimum radius from - Radius 1 in 00 gauge is 371mm with Radius 2 coming in at 438mm. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 👍
I know this is a 3 year video but hopefully your still answering questions, first of all thanks for a wonderful tutorial, the only question is for us peasants and unskilled people that by pre built models, do i need to raise up the buildings, platforms, bridges, and tunnels entrances/ portals on cork to match the hight of the rails or is this already taken into consideration with the models?
I'm always here to answer questions! 😉 Platforms will be your biggest issue regarding height. If you want the height to be absolutely perfect you may want to raise them up on cork too. That said, I know of some stations where there's a bit of jump down from the train to platform surface so it's not completely un-prototypical... it depends on how you want it look and whether you think it'll bother you. Lineside buildings don't really need to be raised up as the cork is just intended to represent the slightly raised trackbed anyway. Bearing in mind as well that the 3mm thickness of cork equals to less than a foot in 00 gauge. For bridges/tunnels, I would recommend checking all clearances regardless of whether you use cork or not. All the ones I used on my layout were fine but the chimney of Stephenson's Rocket (which is my tallest loco) comes close on some. Everything else has been fine in terms of height but like I said it's always best to check before gluing something in position. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 👍
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy thanks for replying so fast, that helps me out a lot, i made a layout about 20 years ago and never did the whole cork thing, and boy was it noisy, now my own boy is growing and showing interest, I’m going to start making a 4x8, but as storage space is a big problem, I’m taking as many notes about your modular series as i can and hopefully I can make something that somewhat looks ok. Thanks for the great comment and feedback, kind regards Kane (35) and justin(11)
Hey there, it's your railway you're allowed to do whatever you want. You could also look at glueing down a ballast mat too which is another simple way to do it. Thanks for watching 😃
Great easy to follow video. If you are running two lines what should the scale distance between the two lines be and should they be mounted on one wider strip of cork or two separate runs ? I'm thinking of giving this a go with my son and wanted to get it as accurate as possible. Thanks very much. 👍
I think it's about 25mm between to the two inner rails. Peco actually make a little plastic spacer tool for this purpose which lines up with the geometry of their points so it might be worth trying to pick one of those up if you can. With regards to cork, personally I would have a separate strip of cork for each running line to get the proper ballast shoulders, but of course you're welcome to build your own railways however you want. Best of luck with it and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Thanks for taking the time to reply. I built a 6 x4 base board using a sundeala top when he was going but we never had the space to set it up. He's now 21 and bought a shed so we're having a go in there.
I wince when l see even the modelling mags demonstrating laying track using pins and a great big hammer. I have seen so much damage to rails caused by hammer blows at my model railway club and elsewhere. I find that an impact glue is perfectly suitable for holding track in place until it is ballasted. If any sort of holding pin is required until glue sets on curves for example then temporarily use of drawing pins pressed down with finger pressure is perfectly fine. Another thing l can't stand to see modelling mags promote is the soldering of wire to the side of the rail. This not only looks unsightly but can often cause excess solder above rail head to be picked up on loco wheels and spread liberally over the rest of the trackwork. I always make soldered wire connections to the underside of the rail, which makes it invisible once ballasting is completed. Anyway nice video, it's good to encourage new modellers in to the hobby.
I think, as you mentioned at the end of your comment, it's about encouraging newcomers into the hobby. Track pins are often seen as a much easier way for beginners to get started especially when they're often using Code 100 set track. For more finescale modelling, glue is absolutely the way to go but if you're just getting started it can be reassuring to know that if it all goes wrong you can just take out the pins and start again. I definitely agree with you on soldering the wires to the bottom of the rail though! Occasionally I've seen people soldering additional feeders to the rails after the track has already been laid... but certainly when your putting it down initially it's so much easier to take out a sleeper and solder to the flat bottom. Thanks for watching 😃
I'm almost ready to start laying track with your video as a guide, but some bright spark on a facebook Model Railway group page piped up and said if 3mm cork is used under the track on a oo gauge layout, it also has to be laid under station platforms, etc, as without it, the scale would be wrong... is there a checklist as such to what 'fixed' buildings would have to be raised in the same way, or he he just being somewhat pedantic about it?
Hi Peter, technically they're not wrong but it depends how you're building your platforms. I just made mine 3mm taller when constructing them as I built my platforms from foam board. Aside from platforms the only other things I think would be effected are bridges and tunnels but only if the clearance underneath is really tight! I certainly didn't need to adjust mine on my layout. Remember though adding cork is an optional extra. You don't have to use it so if it's casing you a headache then you can lay the track directly on the baseboard. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I'm opting to use the cork for the help with soundproofing and for the 'shoulders' it creates for the ballasting - when I was on the footplate yonks ago, this was most noticable on the express runs (along with the banking) but not so much on approaches to stations. I take onboard the measures you took to maintain the scale and will follow that by adding cork under the relevant and noticable areas. Problem solved :)
Can I run flex track on acrylic like the 1/2 inch thick sheets at lowes or home depot. No track bed just attached (glue or other way). I know I'll need to use a lot of small clamps.
Interesting idea but honestly I can't say for certain having never tried it myself. In theory as long as the acrylic sheet doesn't flex or bend at all you should be ok - if it does you'll need to add some bracing. But otherwise I imagine it would be the same as laying track on any other flat surface. Thanks for watching 😃
Personally I use PECO track on all my layouts. It’s generally considered the best around, they have a wide range of points and they do Setrack (clip together sections) and more realistic Flexitrack. Thanks for watching 😃
@@NYandAtlantic Well Setrack is easier to use but more expensive for what you get. The Flexitrack is about £4 a yard (91.5cm) but the points can stack up quite quickly so if you're on a budget I'd suggest building something that doesn't require a lot of points. You could buy secondhand track if you're on a really tight budget but I don't know that it's all that much cheaper and you may find it causes other issues. If you want your trains to run well then personally I would spend my budget on getting decent track and cut down elsewhere.
Hi Chris, really glad you've found the videos useful. Yes fishplates are still the norm for joining track together. The set track pieces have them built in but for flexible track you'll need to get hold of them separately. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
The pin goes through the cork and penetrates into the baseboard. Ideally you want to use pin long enough to lodge into the wood but not come out the other side, which obviously depends on the thickness of wood you're using. Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks Darren! Great question - I wouldn't personally do it but if the rail heights match (ie: both Code 100) then there's nothing to stop you. I imagine you'll be able to tell the difference between the sections though with how smooth the trains run. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
I covered that at 07:08. Personally I prefer to tack my track anyway but I know others prefer glue as they don't like the visual of having nails through the sleepers. As this series is intended for beginners I felt it was only right to give people the option of both techniques so they can choose for themselves. Thanks for watching 👍
To contribute to the debate about whether cork deadens sound or not: Cork is very porous, which means that it can get filled with glue. If the glue of a type that dries up hard, the cork will get hard as well and sound will not be dampened. If the dry glue is still flexible, there's definitely a chance that sounds will be dampened.
It is an interesting debate certainly, although one I feel is probably more relevant from a while back when locos were more noisy. I've got sections on my layout where the cork has been ballasted and parts where it's still bare and the difference in sound is minimal in my opinion. Really I think it's more down to creating a shoulder for the ballast these day and giving the track a nice surface to sit on. Thanks for watching 😃
I have a ton of Bachmann E-Z track from my early modelling days. For the main modules, I want to use PECO as shown here, but I might use some of the old Bachmann track in yards or something. It'd be a shame to not use it and waste it.
Awesome, yeah it's difficult to go wrong with PECO but as you say if you have the Bachmann track already you might as well use it if you can. I presume the two are compatible then? Thanks for watching 😃
Not sure if this has been asked and answered but I have purchased a large amount of used track and and a lot of the fishplates could use a clean up, is this possible as buying new seems silly expensive?!? By the way love this playlist. As someone starting out super useful 👌🏼💯🔥
Hi Craig, to be honest I'm not too sure. It might be worth checking out some of the model railway forums to see if anyone has tried something similar. I seem to remember someone mentioning something about using watered down vinegar or IPA for something similar... but it was a while ago and I don't want you to ruin your track off some dodgy advice from me! Remember though that the fishplates carry the current around your layout so you want them to work as well as possible and it's there's a chance they might still be temperamental even after cleaning. If that's the case you may be better biting the bullet and getting some new ones for the best results - the PECO ones aren't too bad at around £3 for 24 I think. Sorry I haven't been more helpful but I'm glad you're enjoying the playlist as you're exactly the type of person it was made for. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy you have been a big help my guy and the (best respect) guilds are so simple and what I needed to get to grips with everything! At 38 years old it's exactly what i needed. I will.look in to the PECO plates thank you
The #1 Rule DO NOT RUSH Track Laying Take Your Time when when Laying Track.Slow Down and It will Work out Perfect Rush it and It won’t work out.Also Remember this Build with Pride And Passion Not to Race to get it done.
Yep as I said in the video, if you don't lay your track properly you'll end up with more problems later on so it's definitely worth spending time on it. Thanks for watching 😃
I wouldn’t call it the “proper method”, it’s just one way of doing it. There’s nothing wrong with doing it wire snippers in my opinion, they’re pretty close to the specialised track cutters some people like to use. Thanks for watching 😃
OK. I agree with most of what you just showed BUT... You need a proper hammer for the job. A lightweight hanmer with tapered head on a long handle is more precise and reduces the risk of damaging the rail. Combined with a pin pusher you can't go wrong.
Thanks James. Yes in an ideal situation that would be best but as I mentioned in reply to a similar comment, a total beginner is unlikely to have a specialised hammer or pin pusher at this stage. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy i see your point mate. When asked as shows about model making and layout builds my advice to people is always invest in your tool kit. Buying locos and rolling stock is nice but the right tool for the job is often essential.
Definitely, investing in the right tools for the job is a really great idea. My hope with this series is to encourage newcomers into the hobby initially by starting simple. Once they've got something up and running hopefully they'll want to explore further and take things to the next level to get even better results. Thanks for watching 😃
Hey Steve, the process is pretty much exactly the same. I did a video last year where I showed how I laid the curves on my own layout: ruclips.net/video/f9kzqHoZhy4/видео.html Thanks for watching 😃
My interest is mainly in British outline railways I'm afraid. This process would apply for any model railway so there's no reason you couldn't use it for a Pakistan Railway. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy not for road bed. Pink and blue foam. Building up scenes. Was just saying if using foam for your layout (not just wood) it melts.
One word of caution for beginners like me, ovoid getting train models at an antique shop until you have experience. Getting a non working train right at the beginning can be a turn off. It is better to get a simple set at the beginning.
Generally getting them from an antique shop isn't a good idea unless you know what you're doing anyway. If you are going to buy secondhand it's best to do so from an actual model shop who will often have a test track available so you can see how it performs before making a decision. Thanks for watching 👍
How far are you bending it? I've found the tighter the curve the more likely the sleepers are to pop out. But if you prefer using set track pieces that's absolutely fine - you can definitely get the track down quicker that way. Thanks for watching 😃
Hi, sorry to be a bit negative but this was supposed to be a basic tutorial. You explained what flex track is but then installed a short length of it straight which is easy to do. No mention of how the rails will pull in and out for a curve and how to do that. Also just saying "you will have to find a way to hold flex track curves" is not really what us novice starters want to hear. We are looking on tutorial clips to find out different ways of doing things, not be told we have to find a way! Sorry.
I covered cutting the rails at the start of the video. Naturally you would measure the track and mark the rails before cutting it to account for the curve. As for holding the track down on curves, this only applies when using glue which is more of an advanced technique and is why I highly recommend using track pins for beginners. The same as how in the wiring episode I covered the existence of electrofrog points, but didn't go into the nuances of how they work. How you hold the track depends on the type of glue you're using. For fast setting glue you can simply hold it in place (with your hands) while it dries. For longer setting glues some people use weights or even track pins to hold it in place. Thanks for watching 😃
Hey there, so as I mentioned in reply to similar comments, this video is intended for complete beginners who probably won't have a special track pin hammer or pin pusher. While I agree that a smaller hammer is better in the long run, the idea here is to show that it is possible to use a standard hammer when just starting out as long as you're careful. Thanks for watching 😃
I'm planning on building my dream model railway. Thank you for this.
Awesome, best of luck with it! Thanks for watching 😃
I just visited a model train show today and walked out with a whole stack of track, a bag of cars, two locomotives, and a very excited daughter. We're looking forward to putting an HO DC set together. We bought the parts from various clubs and nice older gentlemen feom clubs who were happy to see newcomers to the hobby. This will be fun!
Amazing, that's great to hear! Hope you have fun and thanks for watching 😃
Great little video,I'm enjoying the series of your new layout you're creating too.Its 50 odd years since I had a layout but these are great to watch.😎
Thanks Peter, really glad to hear you're enjoying all the different videos! It's great to see that even those who have already had layouts in the past are still interested in this tutorial series so thanks for watching 😃
I used a nail set to put in the track nails , worked great ! 😂
What colour did you paint them? 😅 Thanks for watching 👍
Thank You, as a beginner I found this very informative.
Awesome, that's great to hear! Best of luck with your own track laying and thanks for watching 😃
Thanks for another great video. Its good that you are helping keep us all on the right track.
Ah I see what you did there 😉 My pleasure, I like to think these simple tutorial videos will inspire some people to just give it a go. Thanks for watching 👍
Thanks for your interesting and informative video presentation.
Really glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching 😃
Looking to build my first ever on gauge model railway and I will be using your videos to guide me. Thanks so much for these
Awesome, really glad to hear that and best of luck with your layout! Thanks for watching 😃
For N scale I have used 1 inch wide double sided foam tape from a craft shop to affix the track.
Brilliant idea! If I ever get round to building an N Gauge layout I'm definitely stealing this tip 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
I use Copydex (latex adhesive) instead of P VA. Track can be easily lifted with a palette knife and the adhesive peeled away. Lifting track laid with screws or pins can result in damage to the sleepers.
Yep, I've used spray glue on the cork and track in the past too and I've found it's great if you're working quickly. As this is a tutorial for complete beginners though I was just trying to keep it as simple as possible, hence the more traditional PVA and track pins route. Thanks for watching 😃
Another great installment of the series. It's good that your keeping everything simple.
Cheers :D
Thanks! Yeah my aim with these is that a beginner could go away feeling like they could do it themselves, so I hope it helps a few people get started on their own layouts.. Thanks for watching 😃
After I lay the track, and add another track infront of it, will I need connectors to connect the tracks? Or just put them very close to each other?
Yes you will need Rail Joiners, also known as Fishplates. These connect the track together and allow the power to flow round the layout. Thanks for watching 😃
great series
Glad you're enjoying it! Thanks for watching 😃
great video.looking forward to the next one. never too old to learn something new. cheers tom
Thanks Tom! Really glad to hear that, I do hope that this little series inspires a few people out there to get started on their first layout. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy thankyou for taking the time. cheers tom.
thank, you for you're helpful video.
My pleasure, glad to hear it was helpful! Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks for watching everyone! Check out the description for links to the products used.
Don't forget you can catch up with the other videos in this series here: ruclips.net/p/PLrxCs5t2FkmwrlGe3uA8naYkBug7g-u7N
Hello im a beginner and your videos are exactly what i need for me to understand the basics , i do try to avoid watching the large layouts, yes very nice and they do show what can be done, but they can be quite technical and i just dont know what it is they are talking about ? So what better than to learn the basics , ive just subscribed and liked this how to build your layout board, and look forward to watching and learning from your other videos Paul
I'm really glad you've found the videos useful Paul! I do try to keep them as easy and accessible as possible rather than ramble on about unnecessary jargon for ages or making things way too complicated 😅 This particular series was all about showing the basics with the aim of giving complete beginners a nudge in the right direction without overloading them with information so hopefully it's worked. Thanks for watching 👍
Hi joe can I’m thinking about subscribing to model railway magazine or continental modeller magazine and have them sent to me digitally ,Which of these would you recommend ? I am a beginner so wouldn’t want anything to technical or should I just continue watching you tube Paul
Top job mate
Glad you enjoyed it Chris, thanks for watching 😃
Wow well done. Great vid, wish you all the best with your channel. Barry.
Glad you enjoyed it Barry! Thanks for watching 😃
Thank you this is very helpful! Question though: I am struggling to decide on the size of my table and layout because my understanding is that minimum radius for OO is 500mm. It makes it difficult to have a double curve and leave space for hills etc, even on a 1.5mx3m table as I am planning. Yet I see lot's of 1.2 x 2.4 layouts (4x8feet). How do modellers fit OO gauge on such a small table?
I don't know where you've got 500mm as a minimum radius from - Radius 1 in 00 gauge is 371mm with Radius 2 coming in at 438mm. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 👍
I know this is a 3 year video but hopefully your still answering questions, first of all thanks for a wonderful tutorial, the only question is for us peasants and unskilled people that by pre built models, do i need to raise up the buildings, platforms, bridges, and tunnels entrances/ portals on cork to match the hight of the rails or is this already taken into consideration with the models?
I'm always here to answer questions! 😉
Platforms will be your biggest issue regarding height. If you want the height to be absolutely perfect you may want to raise them up on cork too. That said, I know of some stations where there's a bit of jump down from the train to platform surface so it's not completely un-prototypical... it depends on how you want it look and whether you think it'll bother you.
Lineside buildings don't really need to be raised up as the cork is just intended to represent the slightly raised trackbed anyway. Bearing in mind as well that the 3mm thickness of cork equals to less than a foot in 00 gauge.
For bridges/tunnels, I would recommend checking all clearances regardless of whether you use cork or not. All the ones I used on my layout were fine but the chimney of Stephenson's Rocket (which is my tallest loco) comes close on some. Everything else has been fine in terms of height but like I said it's always best to check before gluing something in position. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 👍
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy thanks for replying so fast, that helps me out a lot, i made a layout about 20 years ago and never did the whole cork thing, and boy was it noisy, now my own boy is growing and showing interest, I’m going to start making a 4x8, but as storage space is a big problem, I’m taking as many notes about your modular series as i can and hopefully I can make something that somewhat looks ok. Thanks for the great comment and feedback, kind regards
Kane (35) and justin(11)
Awesome video! I have a question. Just for creative liberty, could you paint the cork grey if you didn't want to do ballasting?
Hey there, it's your railway you're allowed to do whatever you want. You could also look at glueing down a ballast mat too which is another simple way to do it. Thanks for watching 😃
Great easy to follow video. If you are running two lines what should the scale distance between the two lines be and should they be mounted on one wider strip of cork or two separate runs ? I'm thinking of giving this a go with my son and wanted to get it as accurate as possible. Thanks very much. 👍
I think it's about 25mm between to the two inner rails. Peco actually make a little plastic spacer tool for this purpose which lines up with the geometry of their points so it might be worth trying to pick one of those up if you can.
With regards to cork, personally I would have a separate strip of cork for each running line to get the proper ballast shoulders, but of course you're welcome to build your own railways however you want. Best of luck with it and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Thanks for taking the time to reply. I built a 6 x4 base board using a sundeala top when he was going but we never had the space to set it up. He's now 21 and bought a shed so we're having a go in there.
I wince when l see even the modelling mags demonstrating laying track using pins and a great big hammer.
I have seen so much damage to rails caused by hammer blows at my model railway club and elsewhere.
I find that an impact glue is perfectly suitable for holding track in place until it is ballasted.
If any sort of holding pin is required until glue sets on curves for example then temporarily use of drawing pins pressed down
with finger pressure is perfectly fine.
Another thing l can't stand to see modelling mags promote is the soldering of wire to the side of the rail.
This not only looks unsightly but can often cause excess solder above rail head to be picked up on loco wheels and spread liberally
over the rest of the trackwork.
I always make soldered wire connections to the underside of the rail, which makes it invisible once ballasting is completed.
Anyway nice video, it's good to encourage new modellers in to the hobby.
I think, as you mentioned at the end of your comment, it's about encouraging newcomers into the hobby. Track pins are often seen as a much easier way for beginners to get started especially when they're often using Code 100 set track. For more finescale modelling, glue is absolutely the way to go but if you're just getting started it can be reassuring to know that if it all goes wrong you can just take out the pins and start again.
I definitely agree with you on soldering the wires to the bottom of the rail though! Occasionally I've seen people soldering additional feeders to the rails after the track has already been laid... but certainly when your putting it down initially it's so much easier to take out a sleeper and solder to the flat bottom. Thanks for watching 😃
I'm almost ready to start laying track with your video as a guide, but some bright spark on a facebook Model Railway group page piped up and said if 3mm cork is used under the track on a oo gauge layout, it also has to be laid under station platforms, etc, as without it, the scale would be wrong... is there a checklist as such to what 'fixed' buildings would have to be raised in the same way, or he he just being somewhat pedantic about it?
Hi Peter, technically they're not wrong but it depends how you're building your platforms. I just made mine 3mm taller when constructing them as I built my platforms from foam board.
Aside from platforms the only other things I think would be effected are bridges and tunnels but only if the clearance underneath is really tight! I certainly didn't need to adjust mine on my layout.
Remember though adding cork is an optional extra. You don't have to use it so if it's casing you a headache then you can lay the track directly on the baseboard. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I'm opting to use the cork for the help with soundproofing and for the 'shoulders' it creates for the ballasting - when I was on the footplate yonks ago, this was most noticable on the express runs (along with the banking) but not so much on approaches to stations. I take onboard the measures you took to maintain the scale and will follow that by adding cork under the relevant and noticable areas. Problem solved :)
Can I run flex track on acrylic like the 1/2 inch thick sheets at lowes or home depot. No track bed just attached (glue or other way). I know I'll need to use a lot of small clamps.
Interesting idea but honestly I can't say for certain having never tried it myself. In theory as long as the acrylic sheet doesn't flex or bend at all you should be ok - if it does you'll need to add some bracing. But otherwise I imagine it would be the same as laying track on any other flat surface. Thanks for watching 😃
Got ya self a new sub man
Awesome, always nice to hear! Thanks for watching and subscribing 😃
What track would u recommend I don’t like the Bachmann track with black road bed trains run crappy on it
Personally I use PECO track on all my layouts. It’s generally considered the best around, they have a wide range of points and they do Setrack (clip together sections) and more realistic Flexitrack. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy what if you have a tight budget
@@NYandAtlantic Well Setrack is easier to use but more expensive for what you get. The Flexitrack is about £4 a yard (91.5cm) but the points can stack up quite quickly so if you're on a budget I'd suggest building something that doesn't require a lot of points.
You could buy secondhand track if you're on a really tight budget but I don't know that it's all that much cheaper and you may find it causes other issues. If you want your trains to run well then personally I would spend my budget on getting decent track and cut down elsewhere.
Excellent video.
You explain things in a simple and easy to understand way, so a complete novice/newbie has an idea of what to do..
Many thanks 👍📌
EDIT..
How do you join two lengths of track together??
Fishplates spring to mind, or is there something newer or better nowadays??
Hi Chris, really glad you've found the videos useful. Yes fishplates are still the norm for joining track together. The set track pieces have them built in but for flexible track you'll need to get hold of them separately. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
So the pin doesn’t penetrate the baseboard just the cork?
The pin goes through the cork and penetrates into the baseboard. Ideally you want to use pin long enough to lodge into the wood but not come out the other side, which obviously depends on the thickness of wood you're using. Thanks for watching 😃
Thank you, I’m making a layout and this was very helpful!
Great stuff, that was definitely the intention with these videos so good to know they're proving useful. Thanks for watching 😃
Some great tips thanks for sharing - new sub today
My pleasure, glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching 😃
great video series, thank you
Thanks Andy, really glad to hear that. Hope you're finding it useful and thanks for watching 😃
Good video
Thanks really glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching 😃
Great informative watch 👌Is it possible to use both steel and nickel silver track combined in sections?
Thanks Darren! Great question - I wouldn't personally do it but if the rail heights match (ie: both Code 100) then there's nothing to stop you. I imagine you'll be able to tell the difference between the sections though with how smooth the trains run. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Excellent, thanks for the info, much appreciated 👍
Just a wee tip I didnt glue my battens just screwed them as the day will come when you need to take it apart which you cant do if you have glued it
I covered that at 07:08. Personally I prefer to tack my track anyway but I know others prefer glue as they don't like the visual of having nails through the sleepers. As this series is intended for beginners I felt it was only right to give people the option of both techniques so they can choose for themselves. Thanks for watching 👍
What scale do you use to build your layout?
In this video I was using 00 gauge track - but I’ve built layouts in various different scales including 009 and G. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy thanks!
To contribute to the debate about whether cork deadens sound or not:
Cork is very porous, which means that it can get filled with glue. If the glue of a type that dries up hard, the cork will get hard as well and sound will not be dampened. If the dry glue is still flexible, there's definitely a chance that sounds will be dampened.
It is an interesting debate certainly, although one I feel is probably more relevant from a while back when locos were more noisy. I've got sections on my layout where the cork has been ballasted and parts where it's still bare and the difference in sound is minimal in my opinion. Really I think it's more down to creating a shoulder for the ballast these day and giving the track a nice surface to sit on. Thanks for watching 😃
I have a ton of Bachmann E-Z track from my early modelling days. For the main modules, I want to use PECO as shown here, but I might use some of the old Bachmann track in yards or something. It'd be a shame to not use it and waste it.
Awesome, yeah it's difficult to go wrong with PECO but as you say if you have the Bachmann track already you might as well use it if you can. I presume the two are compatible then? Thanks for watching 😃
Not sure if this has been asked and answered but I have purchased a large amount of used track and and a lot of the fishplates could use a clean up, is this possible as buying new seems silly expensive?!? By the way love this playlist. As someone starting out super useful 👌🏼💯🔥
Hi Craig, to be honest I'm not too sure. It might be worth checking out some of the model railway forums to see if anyone has tried something similar. I seem to remember someone mentioning something about using watered down vinegar or IPA for something similar... but it was a while ago and I don't want you to ruin your track off some dodgy advice from me!
Remember though that the fishplates carry the current around your layout so you want them to work as well as possible and it's there's a chance they might still be temperamental even after cleaning. If that's the case you may be better biting the bullet and getting some new ones for the best results - the PECO ones aren't too bad at around £3 for 24 I think.
Sorry I haven't been more helpful but I'm glad you're enjoying the playlist as you're exactly the type of person it was made for. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy you have been a big help my guy and the (best respect) guilds are so simple and what I needed to get to grips with everything! At 38 years old it's exactly what i needed. I will.look in to the PECO plates thank you
The #1 Rule DO NOT RUSH Track Laying Take Your Time when when Laying Track.Slow Down and It will Work out Perfect Rush it and It won’t work out.Also Remember this Build with Pride And Passion Not to Race to get it done.
Yep as I said in the video, if you don't lay your track properly you'll end up with more problems later on so it's definitely worth spending time on it. Thanks for watching 😃
wow, I just used a pair of wire snips to cut my track. didnt know there was a proper method
I wouldn’t call it the “proper method”, it’s just one way of doing it. There’s nothing wrong with doing it wire snippers in my opinion, they’re pretty close to the specialised track cutters some people like to use. Thanks for watching 😃
New sub, thanks for the tips
Awesome, glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching and for subscribing too 😃
OK.
I agree with most of what you just showed BUT...
You need a proper hammer for the job.
A lightweight hanmer with tapered head on a long handle is more precise and reduces the risk of damaging the rail.
Combined with a pin pusher you can't go wrong.
Thanks James. Yes in an ideal situation that would be best but as I mentioned in reply to a similar comment, a total beginner is unlikely to have a specialised hammer or pin pusher at this stage. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy i see your point mate.
When asked as shows about model making and layout builds my advice to people is always invest in your tool kit.
Buying locos and rolling stock is nice but the right tool for the job is often essential.
Definitely, investing in the right tools for the job is a really great idea. My hope with this series is to encourage newcomers into the hobby initially by starting simple. Once they've got something up and running hopefully they'll want to explore further and take things to the next level to get even better results. Thanks for watching 😃
I'm new to this and brought a pin hammer from Amazon £3:99
What about curves? Hello?
Hey Steve, the process is pretty much exactly the same. I did a video last year where I showed how I laid the curves on my own layout: ruclips.net/video/f9kzqHoZhy4/видео.html Thanks for watching 😃
Please made the video on Pakistan train 🚂
My interest is mainly in British outline railways I'm afraid. This process would apply for any model railway so there's no reason you couldn't use it for a Pakistan Railway. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy ok bro ❤️
Cool
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching 😃
If using foam. spray adhesive melts foam .
To be honest I wouldn't recommend using foam over cork anyway. In my experience it always tends to disintegrate. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy not for road bed. Pink and blue foam. Building up scenes. Was just saying if using foam for your layout (not just wood) it melts.
GO YOU 'R's!!!
One word of caution for beginners like me, ovoid getting train models at an antique shop until you have experience. Getting a non working train right at the beginning can be a turn off. It is better to get a simple set at the beginning.
Generally getting them from an antique shop isn't a good idea unless you know what you're doing anyway. If you are going to buy secondhand it's best to do so from an actual model shop who will often have a test track available so you can see how it performs before making a decision. Thanks for watching 👍
I hate flex track. They always come out of the sleepers
How far are you bending it? I've found the tighter the curve the more likely the sleepers are to pop out. But if you prefer using set track pieces that's absolutely fine - you can definitely get the track down quicker that way. Thanks for watching 😃
Hornby fleet track is crap. Peco is much better and the rails won’t pop out.
I’m don’t have a model railway
Well this is a video for beginners, most people who have a model railway probably already know how to lay track 😉 Thanks for watching 👍
Hi, sorry to be a bit negative but this was supposed to be a basic tutorial. You explained what flex track is but then installed a short length of it straight which is easy to do. No mention of how the rails will pull in and out for a curve and how to do that. Also just saying "you will have to find a way to hold flex track curves" is not really what us novice starters want to hear. We are looking on tutorial clips to find out different ways of doing things, not be told we have to find a way!
Sorry.
I covered cutting the rails at the start of the video. Naturally you would measure the track and mark the rails before cutting it to account for the curve. As for holding the track down on curves, this only applies when using glue which is more of an advanced technique and is why I highly recommend using track pins for beginners. The same as how in the wiring episode I covered the existence of electrofrog points, but didn't go into the nuances of how they work.
How you hold the track depends on the type of glue you're using. For fast setting glue you can simply hold it in place (with your hands) while it dries. For longer setting glues some people use weights or even track pins to hold it in place. Thanks for watching 😃
Smaller hammer head!
Hey there, so as I mentioned in reply to similar comments, this video is intended for complete beginners who probably won't have a special track pin hammer or pin pusher. While I agree that a smaller hammer is better in the long run, the idea here is to show that it is possible to use a standard hammer when just starting out as long as you're careful. Thanks for watching 😃
TOOOOO MUCH TALK NOT MUCH WORK ...S.h.t Video ....
I'm guessing you missed that whole practical section from 02:12 to 07:28 then 🙄