I used a ballistics calculator put in my zero ranges and specs of my ammunition then checked the spread from using 25,50 and 75 yard zero to see which one would be best for me. I found that the 25 yd zero had the best of both worlds in terms of being easily visible and having the least adjustments/holdover across the spread of 25-200 yds.
I agree with the ballistic calculator. I did chrono all my loads, so I have accurate numbers for my gun and load combination. I loaded 85gr copper expanding bullets going 2600 ft/sec, 130gr varmint bullets going 1900 ft/sec and 200gr bullets going about 1050. I sight in at 28 yards and my bullet is close to the +/- 4 in at almost 300, 200 and 100 yards respectively. Since the trajectory crosses zero twice, I set for a closer zero and I'm am fairly close with all 3 loads. This way, if I change bullets, the only thing I need to worry about is how far out each bullet can go before compensating for drop.
@@84sd6ricztgvubojnomp that’s why shot placement and expanding bullets are important when using subs. Only ones with decent energy is 45-70 and the likes
That was very interesting, I have an 11 inch barrel and a red dot on it. I also have a 16 in rifle as well zeroed at 100. I’ve never taken the time to do this testing with the pistol but frequently wondered about exactly what you covered here. I hand load my 300 BO rds. 125 gr with 18.5 gr of IMR 4227 and get right at 1900 + or- fps out of the pistol. I definitely need to go check this out with a scope on mine now.
I’ve been using Strelok for many years. It makes things so much easier when going from one reticle to another. I currently use a Tremor3 reticle. Strelok is definitely worth the money especially if you intend to do a lot of long range precision shots.
I zeroed at a 100 yards with 110 vmax they are in the bullseye at 50 yards the same with 125 sst the 110 and 125 shoot same point of impact for me. I always zero at a 100 yards but test at 50 yards most of my shots are 30 yards to 50 yards yards. My 308 with 150 sp are the same way zero at a 100 yards and they hit the 50 yards bullseye. The 300 blackout is very accurate for me I get 3/8 inch groups all the time at a 100 yards.
Sighting in with 147 shouldn't get you close to both lightest to heavy and have you shoot 2 inch low or 2 inch high depending on distanse haven't had a chance to reach out to 300
To zero any firearm you need to determine what range you intend to use it, if your intention is home defense zero for 25 yards if it's intended for hunting zero for 100 , it's not about the caliber it's about the intended usage
@@InfamousTactical yeah. and if he did, he didn't get it. know your rifle, know your load zero appropriately and you'll know you're within an 8" target plate 25-200 yards with good hunting ammo. not range FMJ. further knowing your scope adjustment or hold instantly re-zero's your rifle.
Great video. I'm in Wisconsin too. Do you have any experience with sighting in 300.blackout pistol subs, with atn thermal with the ABL range finder? Thanks
Close range weapon in my mind. I wouldn’t use this outside of two meters. If that was the gas id be using 5.56 or my .308 It honestly depends on what you’re using it for. Home Defense it’s the best option outside of a AR9. Hunting, I again depends on ammo like he said. Probably not using subs more supers for that. But I wouldn’t shoot outside 200 meters.
I have a 8.5” AR pistol chambered in 300 AAC. I have a Romeo 5 red dot on the way. Although, I know that the 300 AAC was designed for CQB if I zeroed my gun at let’s say 50 yards then how high would I have to aim to hit at 200 yards? I looked up a trajectory chart and it said that the bullet drop at 200 yards was 46”. That seams like you would have to hold your red dot above the entire target… can someone please give me some advice. Im pretty new to ballistics and knowledge and I’m open to all advice. Thank you in advance !
If you watched my video you would see that you really need to go shoot and see. Too many variables to tell anyone what there set up will do. Think of the path as a football. So for my rifle zeroed at 33 yards it crosses the zero path on the way up and 200 on the way down.
Your setup is less than ideal for trying to reach 200 yards. Your barrel length is better suited for subsonic ammunition. It is not long enough to get the benefits of the extra powder burn needed for supersonic ammunition. A red dot even with supersonic ammunition is going to be hard to get the consistent hold overs needed for repeated hits at 200 yards. Start with all the needed info for your ballistic calculator and the put it on paper to see how close the data it gave you is to what actually occurs at distance.
Exactly my point. With as many different length barrels and many different loads available, you really need to go shoot your particular set up and test it out
That’s a scary question. Simple answer, 300 Blackout Ammo will fit in a weapon built to shoot 300 Blackout. You can build a AR15 (I’m assuming this is what you have) to shoot many different calibers, this does NOT mean you can shoot different calibers through the same gun. You build it for the specific caliber you want to shoot.
Thanks for the time, effort, and money that went into making the video
I used a ballistics calculator put in my zero ranges and specs of my ammunition then checked the spread from using 25,50 and 75 yard zero to see which one would be best for me. I found that the 25 yd zero had the best of both worlds in terms of being easily visible and having the least adjustments/holdover across the spread of 25-200 yds.
I agree with the ballistic calculator. I did chrono all my loads, so I have accurate numbers for my gun and load combination.
I loaded 85gr copper expanding bullets going 2600 ft/sec, 130gr varmint bullets going 1900 ft/sec and 200gr bullets going about 1050.
I sight in at 28 yards and my bullet is close to the +/- 4 in at almost 300, 200 and 100 yards respectively. Since the trajectory crosses zero twice, I set for a closer zero and I'm am fairly close with all 3 loads.
This way, if I change bullets, the only thing I need to worry about is how far out each bullet can go before compensating for drop.
That’s awesome. You’re definitely more thorough than I am and it sound like it pays off in making accurate shots with little holdover data to remember
Try the 36yd zero.
@@GenX-Grampa Why? What would be your reason for recommending the 36 yard zero for 300 blackout?
@@Terry-mw7hm the same as 5.56, with supersonic rounds anyways. Point of aim out to 300 yds.
I zero at 75 yards with subsonic. This allows easy headshots to 100yards and body shots to 200 yards (aiming at the head)
What subs do you need? Most suck energy-wise at 100
@@84sd6ricztgvubojnomp that’s why shot placement and expanding bullets are important when using subs. Only ones with decent energy is 45-70 and the likes
Good info!! Just figured out why I missed two hogs at about 100 yards..thanks !!
I shoot Supers (110 BlackTip handloads) and run a 35-200 yd. Zero, from my gun with my load.
That was very interesting, I have an 11 inch barrel and a red dot on it. I also have a 16 in rifle as well zeroed at 100. I’ve never taken the time to do this testing with the pistol but frequently wondered about exactly what you covered here. I hand load my 300 BO rds. 125 gr with 18.5 gr of IMR 4227 and get right at 1900 + or- fps out of the pistol. I definitely need to go check this out with a scope on mine now.
This is excellent!!! Great job. Thank you.
Good video
I’ve been using Strelok for many years. It makes things so much easier when going from one reticle to another. I currently use a Tremor3 reticle.
Strelok is definitely worth the money especially if you intend to do a lot of long range precision shots.
Sight it in to whatever range you feel you need it for
I like my point of aim to be center. Rise above 4 inches, fall below 4 inches. I don’t want it all rising in the 8 inch zone.
I zeroed at a 100 yards with 110 vmax they are in the bullseye at 50 yards the same with 125 sst the 110 and 125 shoot same point of impact for me. I always zero at a 100 yards but test at 50 yards most of my shots are 30 yards to 50 yards yards. My 308 with 150 sp are the same way zero at a 100 yards and they hit the 50 yards bullseye. The 300 blackout is very accurate for me I get 3/8 inch groups all the time at a 100 yards.
42 yards for me, with my supersonic load id zero at 27 yards to stay within an 8" plate out to 220 yards
Nice presentation. Liked & subscribed
Nice video
I 147 grain its right at the edge of both spectrum and i have about 2 inches drop at 100
I'm shooting 110 Hornady SST reloads in my 16in barrel and 200yrds is stretching it but I believe I could make an ethical kill at that range
I zeroed mine at 150 because that's about the average range it is used.
Sighting in with 147 shouldn't get you close to both lightest to heavy and have you shoot 2 inch low or 2 inch high depending on distanse haven't had a chance to reach out to 300
Your shirt gives you away lol good video
To zero any firearm you need to determine what range you intend to use it, if your intention is home defense zero for 25 yards if it's intended for hunting zero for 100 , it's not about the caliber it's about the intended usage
You obviously didn’t watch the video. Lol
@@InfamousTactical yeah. and if he did, he didn't get it. know your rifle, know your load zero appropriately and you'll know you're within an 8" target plate 25-200 yards with good hunting ammo. not range FMJ. further knowing your scope adjustment or hold instantly re-zero's your rifle.
Wrong
Need a 300 aac that does it all with one or two simple ammo.
Next time tell us what your barrel length is. So we understand the velocities loss in that particular length.
Great video. I'm in Wisconsin too. Do you have any experience with sighting in 300.blackout pistol subs, with atn thermal with the ABL range finder? Thanks
Excellent hyper lethal combo. You got a suppressor too?
Thank you.
I appreciate you
Zero every rifle at the "Maximum Point Blank Range" and you will good.
So between lowest sub and 147 i get 2 inch drop
20/250 supersonic
Close range weapon in my mind. I wouldn’t use this outside of two meters. If that was the gas id be using 5.56 or my .308
It honestly depends on what you’re using it for. Home Defense it’s the best option outside of a AR9.
Hunting, I again depends on ammo like he said. Probably not using subs more supers for that. But I wouldn’t shoot outside 200 meters.
Two meters? Subsonic 300blk with the 208 ELDM has more energy at 200 meters than 9mm has at the muzzle.
What length barrel are you using?
It is a 10.5” 1:7 twist. Mentioned at 12:20
@@InfamousTactical lol
I have a 8.5” AR pistol chambered in 300 AAC. I have a Romeo 5 red dot on the way. Although, I know that the 300 AAC was designed for CQB if I zeroed my gun at let’s say 50 yards then how high would I have to aim to hit at 200 yards? I looked up a trajectory chart and it said that the bullet drop at 200 yards was 46”. That seams like you would have to hold your red dot above the entire target… can someone please give me some advice. Im pretty new to ballistics and knowledge and I’m open to all advice. Thank you in advance !
If you watched my video you would see that you really need to go shoot and see. Too many variables to tell anyone what there set up will do. Think of the path as a football. So for my rifle zeroed at 33 yards it crosses the zero path on the way up and 200 on the way down.
Your setup is less than ideal for trying to reach 200 yards. Your barrel length is better suited for subsonic ammunition. It is not long enough to get the benefits of the extra powder burn needed for supersonic ammunition. A red dot even with supersonic ammunition is going to be hard to get the consistent hold overs needed for repeated hits at 200 yards. Start with all the needed info for your ballistic calculator and the put it on paper to see how close the data it gave you is to what actually occurs at distance.
What barrel length is this?
I'm northwest Wisconsin
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I have mine at 100 yards.
If you zero at 100 say with a low weight grain. Would you hit slightly high when shooting below 100 like around 50 doesn’t it hit around 1-2” high?
@@zacharybroussard3183 ok
As far as you plan on shooting it
what is a maximum point blank range?
The farthest distance you can hit without changing you sights or holdover.
20 yards
Aim it at your foot and if you hit it you are zero.
Don't bend your knee when prone.
And that was from a short barrel!
Exactly my point. With as many different length barrels and many different loads available, you really need to go shoot your particular set up and test it out
@@InfamousTactical I just got a 16" barrel upper in 300 and a Primary Arms 1-6 scope built for the 300 and 7.62x39. I also have a 7" in 300.
50 yards.
Doesn't matter. Just don't shoot the useless thing any living creature.
50 meters they not very accurate 😅
What different calibers can you shoot through a 300 blackout besides 556×45 ?
300 black out is its own caliber. The casing is made from a 556 but not interchangeable
@@InfamousTactical I went to a gun show and they sold me 556 Winchester I wanted to know if they would fit ?
@@thejoatmoo I guess I'm gonna have to a new rifle lol .. plus more ammo for the blackout thanks
and this is why gun safety exists.
That’s a scary question. Simple answer, 300 Blackout Ammo will fit in a weapon built to shoot 300 Blackout.
You can build a AR15 (I’m assuming this is what you have) to shoot many different calibers, this does NOT mean you can shoot different calibers through the same gun. You build it for the specific caliber you want to shoot.
25 yds?
😜
Obviously, you do not understand
300blk out sucks so whatever range you like
What? how long is a piece of string?
Twice as long as it is from it’s middle to it’s ends. 😊
40 yards