I discovered a little trick for my 300 Blackout and all the different rounds I use. I have a 3x9 scope with a bdc turret that's actually for 5.56 , if I sight in 110gr with the turret on 100yrds (1) when I switch to 220gr subs I click the turret to 200yrds (2) and it's dead on , so far it works perfect out to 100 yrds, which is all I need for subs.
Thank you for the video. Very informative. Please continue with anything you can offer for 300 blackout info. Velocity, barrel length, zeros and holdovers. I love it all. I’m obsessed with the round and almost shoot it exclusively. However I don’t have not take the time nor have the time to do the research you have. You make it easy for the rest of us and I thank you! This is the best video on RUclips on this topic! Thanks again.
Thanks for watching and for the support! I've been super busy with my move and school the past semester and haven't found a good range yet. If you have any specific questions let me know and I'll see what I can find out.
A lot of work on your part and very well done. Having said that I believe the video by Costa Ludus “zero considerations for 300 Blackout is a much easier option for the average home defense individual. Again, your explanation is very well done, good job!
Really informative and well done video. I prefer the 25 yard zero. This is what I generally go with as my setup is strictly designed around PDW purposes. I mainly run supers in my 8" .300 blk PDW pistol as I live in a state where suppressors aren't allowed, so subs are pointless for me to shoot. If I follow the principles of "forehead, forehead; throat, throat" inside of 25 yards, I know it will be center mass or just a hair below whether shooting for the "T" zone or the center thorax.
I set up my 300 BO with a relatively inexpensive 3-9 scope with a pop up red dot on top. Zero the subs at 25 yards in the red dot and the supers at 50 in the scope. Then I tested the drop for the subs in the scope and determined the subs zero on the bottom hatch mark on the scope. I then use a label printer and put the dope for different ranges on the scope so I have an idea of where different rounds will hit.
I have a BDC reddot with 0, 5, 9, and 15 MOA dots. Out of a 10.5" barrel, with a 40yd zero, there is a 5.1MOA difference between supers and subs. Thus, I can have a 40/160yd zero for 110gr Supers on the top dot that hits a maximum of an inch high around 100yds, a 40yd zero for Subs on the second dot, and BDC holdovers for both. 40/160, 275, 350, 450 for Supers, and 40, 75, 115 for Subs. Add a 3x flip magnifier and I can switch from CQB w/ Subs, to mid-range w/ Supers with a mag change. (2200fps super, 960fps sub, 7000ft elevation @ standard atmosphere)
Thanks for watching and the feedback! Hope it helps and yeah... I had to sell mine b/c 300 BLK is just too expensive compared to .223 / 9mm... at least until I get into reloading
I got lost early in the video when you were zeroing at 5 yards. Maybe I wasn't paying close enough attention, but what was the purpose of zeroing at 5 yards?
Well I use a 50 yard zero, so at 10 yards it's about 3'' which is my height over bore. The reason I don't like 10 yard zero is because you have a much greater disparity depending on your distance. If you run a 100 yard zero with your 556, you will only have your height over bore distance (probably around 3'') out to 50-75 yards. Then you'll get close to your actually POA/POI at 100 yards. That actually makes it way easier for CQB engagements, even at 10 yards, because you just need to train to hold 3'' high. With a 10 yard zero, you will still be 3'' low at 0-5 yards, dead on at 10 yards, and high from 10-15 and especially at 25-50. At 100, you'll be way high. It means you'll have a lot more thinking to do for a precise shot unless you are exactly at 10 yards. This might not matter if you know that you'll only shoot a bigger target at only 10 yards, but for me, I know that I might not know the exact distance or size of a target, so I like to give myself more flexibility. Check out this video which explains why I prefer the 100 yard zero for a CQB 5.56 rifle: ruclips.net/video/9QTJSGspZz0/видео.html
Theoretically that would be accurate, yes - provided you have a set-up similar to mine. The difference will be where your holds are before and after 50 yards, but if you follow this process you can figure that out or better yet - go out and test it yourself! I recommend people do that anyways because every gun/ammo/optic/etc is a little different.
Im new to 300 blackout..great vid but complicated and confusing as all hell..I have an 8 inch barrel using a 4x PA Compac scope and plan on only shooting it 0-100 yards Just to keep things simple without doing all those calculations Is 22 or 25 yards the best distance to zero it at for subs and super sonics with no more than a 1.5 - 5 inch difference?
I think that depends on what you want to use the gun for. Do you want the gun to primarily be a 100+ yard gun with supers? That's the only reason I would zero @ 100 with supers. If you do that, you won't be able to use the rifle/optic/zero combo with subs very well (they will be too far blow your Point of Aim (POA). If you zero like I did in this video, you will still have some good range with both supers and subs. I took mine out to around 300 with both without issues, just need to know your holds. Remember that a 50 yard zero will result in the bullet going ABOVE the POA after 50 yards (with supers, mainly), and then it will come back down at another point later, so you'll still get some good distance from it. I would suggest getting an accurate muzzle velocity with your loads (or common loads on the internet) and just plug and play in a ballistic calculator to figure out what your estimated drop will be with that zero and see if it fits your needs!
That 1900fps on the package for the 150gr is from a 16" barrel. It's probably more like 1700ish fps from a 9" barrel. A couple hundred fps will make a difference at distance.
Yeah that's a good point. I've been toying with getting a chrono for a while now. If I still had the 300 BLK I'd def. get one and dial in these numbers.
@@thebasicswithblaze2569 good video regardless. I use the hornady app to figure out my zero distance with my defensive rifle loads. With most of my 300blk supers (110-125gr), a 33yd zero gets me within 1.5 (2 at the very most) inches (up or down) of my point of aim out to 170ish yds. Knowing the velocity (at least relatively close) is key in that equation also. Again though, good video. I know this helped some people get a better grasp of the super and sub situation. Good visualizations to go with it.
I can get a dead zero at 100y, that's point of aim, point of impact with Remington 110g HP's. I'm not even on paper with 220g at 100y. Even 150g or whatever hits way off from my 110g zero. I have to re-zero for ever different brand & grain I use out of my Ghost Upper. I had some red tip mixed in that a friend gave me & they were hitting way high & far left, not even on 12" paper at 75y & even 100y. If I throw in a Remington green/ white box 110g HP's? Dead zero, hole in hole each time. All others just fly where ever they want.
@@thebasicswithblaze2569 I'm new to reloading and I just bought some lilgun powder and I would like a little info on a safe charge that would put me around 900 950fps with a 10.5inch barrel 300blk 150 to 170gr bullet just ball park
I run a 50 yard zero with subs. I'm three inches high with supers at 50 yards. That equals around a 25 yard zero with supers (If I remember what I said in the video correctly haha). Even subs are only an inch or so low at 25, so it's a rough zero for both at 25 yards. If you did a 25 yard zero for subs, your 50 / 75 / 100 yard POI with supers would be even higher than they are with a 50 yard sub zero, which is why I prefer the 50 yard sub zero. I like that because for CQB / Home Defense distances (inside of 25 yards) you are going to only be low (height over bore) for BOTH supers and subs, so training for those CQB engagements is consistent regardless of ammo selection. Past 25 and out to 100 yards (MAX of realistic self-defense engagements, IMO), you have a very workable zero for both supers and subs on a chest sized target. Hit me up with any questions... unfortunately, I haven't had time to shoot this gun much since I moved. I'd like to go out and test my theory more. I'll make sure to record it if I do!
Still a bit confused when u talk about all the different zero distances with two different velocity bulkets...So just to keep it cave man simple..zero the mfer at 50 yards? 😄
I gotta say I love the math, but you lost me lol. I am getting ready to get my setup zeroed, but I think I'm going to just shoot some and see what it does. The other thing is that you hope that your subs and supers are in line windage wise. Otherwise you basically have to dial from subs to supers. It just gets complicated. Plus I want to push it out to 3 rds with 110s 150s and 190s so it gets even worse lol. Defense, plinking, and subs
Thanks for watching! Yeah I wasn't super clear at some point. Bottom line is just run a calculation for supers and subs with a 5 yard zero and then compare the numbers at each range after that. Record the difference and then add / subtract based on any given zero you want (I.E. you put in a 50 yard sub zero - add the difference with supers to see where your bullets would be impacting). Windage can definitely throw you off, but for what most people will use a 300 BLK for, I'm guessing it will be inside of 100-200, which shouldn't be impacted by wind all that much. Probably 200 with subs more than anything, but it shouldn't be much, so I wouldn't worry there. Yeah I guess this concept only works if you stick with 1x super and 1x sub load... if you want to run different rounds then that will for sure complicate things. Let us know how it goes / what you went with! The more feedback the better.
I admire your efforts, but I think your overcomplicating this a little. Why not use MPBR for the supers and learn your holds for the subs at that zero? The subs are really a little inadequate and mostly a party trick anyway... Let's be honest. They have an interesting advantage, but one that's rarely useful in my opinion.
That's certainly an option. I think it just depends on what the individual wants. Any complication I bring to the table is in the form of analysis and allowing people to see exactly where their bullets are going to go. If someone wants to have a solid, useful zero for both, it's going to be costly (especially in todays ammo market) to pick a zero with supers and then test out their subs every 25 / 50 yards to learn their holds when they can instead do some preliminary analysis on the computer to figure out what works for them. I think your main point is true... most folks don't need something really complicated. Chances are a MPBR zero with supers will work well for realistic distances that a 300 BLK will be used in a self-defense capacity anyways, however there are circumstances (like hunting, for example) where people use their rifle for multiple purposes. Alternatively, if you want consistent training (as I mention in the video), it's good to know for sure that you don't have to train with two different holds for CQB training. This is the main reason I went to all of this trouble, which again, is particularly relevant now because of the lack of ammo availability. If all you can find is subs, you don't want to have to train with a different hold-over and then pick up our defensive supers (as you mention, subs aren't as solid performers like supers are) in a defensive context and expect your training to carry over if you need a precise shot indoors. At the end of the day, this is just a useful trick to figure out what your optimal zero for both supers and subs will be if you plan to or have to use both rounds for practical applications or for training. If you can do some work on the computer beforehand, you don't have to burn ammo at the range testing various zeros to find one that works for both! Thanks for watching and for commenting
I discovered a little trick for my 300 Blackout and all the different rounds I use. I have a 3x9 scope with a bdc turret that's actually for 5.56 , if I sight in 110gr with the turret on 100yrds (1) when I switch to 220gr subs I click the turret to 200yrds (2) and it's dead on , so far it works perfect out to 100 yrds, which is all I need for subs.
Thank you for the video. Very informative. Please continue with anything you can offer for 300 blackout info. Velocity, barrel length, zeros and holdovers. I love it all. I’m obsessed with the round and almost shoot it exclusively. However I don’t have not take the time nor have the time to do the research you have. You make it easy for the rest of us and I thank you! This is the best video on RUclips on this topic! Thanks again.
Thanks for watching and for the support! I've been super busy with my move and school the past semester and haven't found a good range yet. If you have any specific questions let me know and I'll see what I can find out.
Obsessed with the round, so your the one hogging all the 762x35s 😉
@@luckeypolishing That would be me.
A lot of work on your part and very well done. Having said that I believe the video by Costa Ludus “zero considerations for 300 Blackout is a much easier option for the average home defense individual. Again, your explanation is very well done, good job!
Really informative and well done video. I prefer the 25 yard zero. This is what I generally go with as my setup is strictly designed around PDW purposes. I mainly run supers in my 8" .300 blk PDW pistol as I live in a state where suppressors aren't allowed, so subs are pointless for me to shoot.
If I follow the principles of "forehead, forehead; throat, throat" inside of 25 yards, I know it will be center mass or just a hair below whether shooting for the "T" zone or the center thorax.
Great video! Very helpful.
Appreciate all the math and time. Yep, most CQB setups zero at 50 as a go to.
I set up my 300 BO with a relatively inexpensive 3-9 scope with a pop up red dot on top. Zero the subs at 25 yards in the red dot and the supers at 50 in the scope. Then I tested the drop for the subs in the scope and determined the subs zero on the bottom hatch mark on the scope. I then use a label printer and put the dope for different ranges on the scope so I have an idea of where different rounds will hit.
I have a BDC reddot with 0, 5, 9, and 15 MOA dots. Out of a 10.5" barrel, with a 40yd zero, there is a 5.1MOA difference between supers and subs. Thus, I can have a 40/160yd zero for 110gr Supers on the top dot that hits a maximum of an inch high around 100yds, a 40yd zero for Subs on the second dot, and BDC holdovers for both. 40/160, 275, 350, 450 for Supers, and 40, 75, 115 for Subs. Add a 3x flip magnifier and I can switch from CQB w/ Subs, to mid-range w/ Supers with a mag change. (2200fps super, 960fps sub, 7000ft elevation @ standard atmosphere)
Qlot of good info for free! All of us appreciate this! Thank you!!
Thanks for watching!
Exactly what I was looking for thank you
Good job! I think you found a good zero for subs and supers!
Well done. Thank you for the effort.
Definitely very informative. Thanks brotha. Good videos. keep up the great work !
thanks for the support!
theBasicswithBlaze subb'd!!!!
I get what you are saying, but thank God my ATN and Sightmark is programmable and remembers what I am shooting....
Great info and supperb preparation . I just assembled a 300 a few weeks ago and I'm working on sighting it in now well as i find ammo i m anyway lol
Thanks for watching and the feedback! Hope it helps and yeah... I had to sell mine b/c 300 BLK is just too expensive compared to .223 / 9mm... at least until I get into reloading
Hope you're still answering comments....so zero at 50yards with subs and remember it's a 3" hold under with supers at that distance?
I got lost early in the video when you were zeroing at 5 yards. Maybe I wasn't paying close enough attention, but what was the purpose of zeroing at 5 yards?
I set up my 556 at 10yds. 1.9 inch low. What's the 300 sub at 10yds using your 22 yd zero?
Well I use a 50 yard zero, so at 10 yards it's about 3'' which is my height over bore.
The reason I don't like 10 yard zero is because you have a much greater disparity depending on your distance. If you run a 100 yard zero with your 556, you will only have your height over bore distance (probably around 3'') out to 50-75 yards. Then you'll get close to your actually POA/POI at 100 yards. That actually makes it way easier for CQB engagements, even at 10 yards, because you just need to train to hold 3'' high.
With a 10 yard zero, you will still be 3'' low at 0-5 yards, dead on at 10 yards, and high from 10-15 and especially at 25-50. At 100, you'll be way high. It means you'll have a lot more thinking to do for a precise shot unless you are exactly at 10 yards. This might not matter if you know that you'll only shoot a bigger target at only 10 yards, but for me, I know that I might not know the exact distance or size of a target, so I like to give myself more flexibility.
Check out this video which explains why I prefer the 100 yard zero for a CQB 5.56 rifle: ruclips.net/video/9QTJSGspZz0/видео.html
If I would to zero super at 50 would subs just be around 3 inch low? Or is it not that easy
Theoretically that would be accurate, yes - provided you have a set-up similar to mine. The difference will be where your holds are before and after 50 yards, but if you follow this process you can figure that out or better yet - go out and test it yourself! I recommend people do that anyways because every gun/ammo/optic/etc is a little different.
Im new to 300 blackout..great vid but complicated and confusing as all hell..I have an 8 inch barrel using a 4x PA Compac scope and plan on only shooting it 0-100 yards Just to keep things simple without doing all those calculations Is 22 or 25 yards the best distance to zero it at for subs and super sonics with no more than a 1.5 - 5 inch difference?
a 25 yard (or 22 yard) zero will give you more spread from 0-100 yards. I'd still go 50 and you'll be more centered the entire distance.
Thx man
thanks. I'm using a 7.5 inch barrel, using the same 150 grain ammo as in the vid.
Badass vid dude
Thanks for watching!
When running a vortex viper 1-6 would you zero with supers at the 100 🤔 10.5”
I think that depends on what you want to use the gun for. Do you want the gun to primarily be a 100+ yard gun with supers? That's the only reason I would zero @ 100 with supers. If you do that, you won't be able to use the rifle/optic/zero combo with subs very well (they will be too far blow your Point of Aim (POA).
If you zero like I did in this video, you will still have some good range with both supers and subs. I took mine out to around 300 with both without issues, just need to know your holds.
Remember that a 50 yard zero will result in the bullet going ABOVE the POA after 50 yards (with supers, mainly), and then it will come back down at another point later, so you'll still get some good distance from it.
I would suggest getting an accurate muzzle velocity with your loads (or common loads on the internet) and just plug and play in a ballistic calculator to figure out what your estimated drop will be with that zero and see if it fits your needs!
@@thebasicswithblaze2569 awesome thanks for the info.... at 1.65 and up per round it’s gonna be expensive to find out 🤘🏽
Good video... my head hurts now ;-)
Lol mine did too as you can see... I messed up some diagrams at the end. Hope it helps!
theBasicswithBlaze I just picked up my first 300 BO. Shot 5.56 forever and know my holds. Now I need to learn 300 ballistics.
What is your 300blk barrel length?
This one is 10.5
Or mark your scope for whichever mag you put in.
That 1900fps on the package for the 150gr is from a 16" barrel. It's probably more like 1700ish fps from a 9" barrel. A couple hundred fps will make a difference at distance.
Yeah that's a good point. I've been toying with getting a chrono for a while now. If I still had the 300 BLK I'd def. get one and dial in these numbers.
@@thebasicswithblaze2569 good video regardless. I use the hornady app to figure out my zero distance with my defensive rifle loads. With most of my 300blk supers (110-125gr), a 33yd zero gets me within 1.5 (2 at the very most) inches (up or down) of my point of aim out to 170ish yds. Knowing the velocity (at least relatively close) is key in that equation also.
Again though, good video. I know this helped some people get a better grasp of the super and sub situation. Good visualizations to go with it.
@@IDK_what_TO_call_IT_ Thanks for watching!
I can get a dead zero at 100y, that's point of aim, point of impact with Remington 110g HP's. I'm not even on paper with 220g at 100y. Even 150g or whatever hits way off from my 110g zero. I have to re-zero for ever different brand & grain I use out of my Ghost Upper. I had some red tip mixed in that a friend gave me & they were hitting way high & far left, not even on 12" paper at 75y & even 100y. If I throw in a Remington green/ white box 110g HP's? Dead zero, hole in hole each time. All others just fly where ever they want.
Found this on Costa's page... his difference @ 50 is a little greater than mine but the concept is the same: ruclips.net/video/aHYzvJUXRCU/видео.html
Thanks for sharing, way to rep PC 👊🏼
thanks for watching!!
I like watching these older videos and pretending I can still buy the ammo.
Haha
@@thebasicswithblaze2569 I'm new to reloading and I just bought some lilgun powder and I would like a little info on a safe charge that would put me around 900 950fps with a 10.5inch barrel 300blk 150 to 170gr bullet just ball park
@@caveman8200 I have no clue b/c I don't reload but I'm sure some other channels cover that topic in depth.
Is 22 yard zero with subs your decision?
I run a 50 yard zero with subs. I'm three inches high with supers at 50 yards. That equals around a 25 yard zero with supers (If I remember what I said in the video correctly haha). Even subs are only an inch or so low at 25, so it's a rough zero for both at 25 yards.
If you did a 25 yard zero for subs, your 50 / 75 / 100 yard POI with supers would be even higher than they are with a 50 yard sub zero, which is why I prefer the 50 yard sub zero.
I like that because for CQB / Home Defense distances (inside of 25 yards) you are going to only be low (height over bore) for BOTH supers and subs, so training for those CQB engagements is consistent regardless of ammo selection.
Past 25 and out to 100 yards (MAX of realistic self-defense engagements, IMO), you have a very workable zero for both supers and subs on a chest sized target.
Hit me up with any questions... unfortunately, I haven't had time to shoot this gun much since I moved. I'd like to go out and test my theory more. I'll make sure to record it if I do!
Still a bit confused when u talk about all the different zero distances with two different velocity bulkets...So just to keep it cave man simple..zero the mfer at 50 yards? 😄
I gotta say I love the math, but you lost me lol. I am getting ready to get my setup zeroed, but I think I'm going to just shoot some and see what it does. The other thing is that you hope that your subs and supers are in line windage wise. Otherwise you basically have to dial from subs to supers. It just gets complicated. Plus I want to push it out to 3 rds with 110s 150s and 190s so it gets even worse lol. Defense, plinking, and subs
Thanks for watching! Yeah I wasn't super clear at some point. Bottom line is just run a calculation for supers and subs with a 5 yard zero and then compare the numbers at each range after that. Record the difference and then add / subtract based on any given zero you want (I.E. you put in a 50 yard sub zero - add the difference with supers to see where your bullets would be impacting).
Windage can definitely throw you off, but for what most people will use a 300 BLK for, I'm guessing it will be inside of 100-200, which shouldn't be impacted by wind all that much. Probably 200 with subs more than anything, but it shouldn't be much, so I wouldn't worry there.
Yeah I guess this concept only works if you stick with 1x super and 1x sub load... if you want to run different rounds then that will for sure complicate things.
Let us know how it goes / what you went with! The more feedback the better.
@@thebasicswithblaze2569 definitely I will do that thanks for the reply!
Just found your channel
You need to zero at 36 yards
Zero with the supers
I admire your efforts, but I think your overcomplicating this a little. Why not use MPBR for the supers and learn your holds for the subs at that zero? The subs are really a little inadequate and mostly a party trick anyway... Let's be honest. They have an interesting advantage, but one that's rarely useful in my opinion.
That's certainly an option. I think it just depends on what the individual wants. Any complication I bring to the table is in the form of analysis and allowing people to see exactly where their bullets are going to go. If someone wants to have a solid, useful zero for both, it's going to be costly (especially in todays ammo market) to pick a zero with supers and then test out their subs every 25 / 50 yards to learn their holds when they can instead do some preliminary analysis on the computer to figure out what works for them.
I think your main point is true... most folks don't need something really complicated. Chances are a MPBR zero with supers will work well for realistic distances that a 300 BLK will be used in a self-defense capacity anyways, however there are circumstances (like hunting, for example) where people use their rifle for multiple purposes. Alternatively, if you want consistent training (as I mention in the video), it's good to know for sure that you don't have to train with two different holds for CQB training. This is the main reason I went to all of this trouble, which again, is particularly relevant now because of the lack of ammo availability.
If all you can find is subs, you don't want to have to train with a different hold-over and then pick up our defensive supers (as you mention, subs aren't as solid performers like supers are) in a defensive context and expect your training to carry over if you need a precise shot indoors.
At the end of the day, this is just a useful trick to figure out what your optimal zero for both supers and subs will be if you plan to or have to use both rounds for practical applications or for training. If you can do some work on the computer beforehand, you don't have to burn ammo at the range testing various zeros to find one that works for both!
Thanks for watching and for commenting