My daughter took her first deer this year with a 300blk using 110gr vmax, CCI #41 and 21.6 of lilgun. It's a 9" Ballistic Advantage barrel and pushing those at an average Muzzle velocity of 2075FPS. It mushroomed beautifully at .45" and accuracy was pretty impressive too.
I learned the hard way when trimming alot of brass with a drill. The cutter got worn at that spot and I needed a new cutter. Other calibers were fine as it was only that spot on the cutter. I was trying to make 38spcl cases out of 357 mag. At the time I thought it was a good idea. Of course it wasn't but I think the drill speed was too fast. Something to consider if trimming in bulk
Awesome! Congrats! I’m taking my 8 yr old granddaughter out to the stand sometime this week and she also shoots my .300blkout. I have an 11.5” pistol upper I built a few years ago. I just swapped out the hard plastic KAK Blade and put a SB Tactical SBPDW brace on it this year along with a 3 lb trigger and she loves it! She had a bit of a hard time pulling the trigger on the old Winchester 30/30 deer rifle! She had to use TWO fingers to pull it, lol! With the new brace being softer rubber and adjustable to her pull length, and softer trigger she loves it and rings steel at 100 yards with a Vortech Sparc II red dot! She has accompanied me the last 2 years but this is the first year she wants to shoot. I couldn’t me more proud! Well, maybe if she takes one! LOL
You're using a sanding/grinding blade which has a thicker kerf (width of the blade). You need to use the metal cutting blades with teeth (3 pack for $10 at Harbor Freight). You'll get the trim length you need. Also, as someone who has converted thousands of brass to 300BLK, resize first then cut. It's much easier to get square-ish, then I use a universal case trimmer then chamfer and debur.
@@jaredcrowley5666 Still the same advice to size then cut? I've been saving up a lot of 5.56 brass until I got my silencer, and since the Form 4 is processing I see this as a good point to start.
@@ALovelyBunchOfDragonballz I've always sized, then cut so as to take any guesswork out of OAL changes that may occur during resizing. My OOO for converting 5.56/.223 has been: 1. Decap and inspect 2. tumble/dry 3. Lube and resize 4. Cut 5. Trim 6. Chamfer/debur. I've also noticed that some head stamps have thicker brass at what used to be the sidewall and is now the neck. If it's above 14 or 15 thousanths I also anneal before loading to keep from occassionally crushing the shoulder at the seating step. I've since added a liquid car polish to my wet tumble rinse cycle and it does seem to make for smoother seating regardless of annealing or not, but that's anecdotal.
I use a 300blk brass already formed as my guide when setting my baby chop saw. I like that jig you got from Etsy. I'm using a smash mold I made with JB weld as my jig. The mold line for the rim holds the 5.56 brass perfectly and then I get chase down all the cut necks. Then into my Lee quick trim die. Once formed and trimmed to length, one more tumble to clean the chips out. Always a great evening. 👍
Hell yea! Shot a bug back on opening day in PA with my .300 blackout. I really need to start reloading. I have the components and materials but haven’t started yet. I love this channel.
Great Video, Johnny and I just started reloading 300 BLK OUT, so this really helps. I looked at your earlier series to get started. I already had some IMR4227 powder and used it to reload an initial and using 150Grn FMJBT. 16.7 Grns of Powder pushes them about 1800 FPS. Thanks again, FletchMan
Semi pro tip. That lee powder drop set up.... the lid allows you to screw in a typical 1lb bottle of powder. Also the plastic replacement drums actually work better, oddly. They have finer adjustment and seem to run smoother.
Love your videos man if it wasn't for you I would never have got into reloading I have been doing 9mm for a while now going to start doing rifle rounds (6.5 cm, 300 bo, and .223 ) so been watching all your videos on repeat lol thanks for the videos!!!
Real men make their own 300B brass and reload subs and supers. Studies have shown that women are 30% more attracted to men that reload, builds ARs, cooks great meals, and makes them laugh. I like my brass at 1.363, according to Hodgdon. You definitely need a Little Crow 300B base trimmer.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench Yep. The little Crow case trimmer on a hand drill or drill press is the way to go. Jig wise, I've been using one from Squirrel Daddy and have had zero issues or irregularities. As I type this, I'm actually watching your 300B episode 23 220gr SMK subsonic video. Winchester 296 seems to be a good powder for both subs and supers.
Home run again JRB. . Thanks man for the great video. .I just got into 300 and funny enough bought the same crap you did. Santa is bringing me the final parts for my 300 PCC build with a can.. So I cant wait to load some subs with my converted brass.
Great video. I've been converting mixed headstamp brass and most of it is fc. I bought a similar chop saw but got my jig from amazon. It simply gets clamped in on the existing saw and after a bit of adjustment it cuts just where I want it. I went the route of 125 grain bullets for deer hunting and range fodder. I picked up some Nosler Accubond in that weight and put W296 behind it and so far it seems good. Definitely minute of Bambi.
As someone who has converted over 5k LC 556 to 300 Blk for my own use and tried almost everything, here's my thoughts: 1. I'd be super nervous about using an abrasive blade for this. The likelihood you get a piece of grit in your sizing die and score it is way too high, IMO. 2. Us a fine tooth blade on the saw and don't be too shy about the rate that you feed the blade in. Too slow and you're likely to spin the case, too fast and you stall the blade. In the middle is a nice moderate speed that starts quickly and cuts reasonably clean. Burrs are to be expected, but they shouldn't be terrible most of the time. If the case spins easily when cutting, try giving the ball detent a 1/4 turn tighter. 3. I don't think I've ever seen a great group from 300Blk with a 110 V-max. I'm sure with some tweaks you'll get the groups to shrink a little, but don't feel bad if you're never really happy with the accuracy. It's not you. 4. My go to general purpose bullet is the speed 125 TNT, they're cheap'ish and offer more expansion and velocity than the 150 FMJBT that often used in budget loads. 5. The 150 Speer gold dot can get amazing accuracy. Can't wait to see what you get them to do. I really want to buy some, but they've been out of stock everywhere for forever. 6. You might consider annealing the case mouth since you remove almost all of the 556 annealing when you convert. If accuracy is your main goal, the improved neck tension consistency could make it worth the effort.
My partner uses the Speer 125s for plinking with her FAL. They've been really hard to come by as you say, but recently she found a couple boxes of the hornady 125gr JHP for a reasonable price at her local gun store. Have you used them, and what do you think of them? Also inre to annealing, would you do that after cutting and trimming but before necking down? And if one's only choice was to use an abrasive blade, do you think tumbling overnight with walnut would sufficiently reduce the risk of getting a piece of grit in your sizing die? Whatabout tumbling with some other medium, or wet washing?
@@chironchangnoi I have not used the 125 JHP, but I'll keep my eyes open for them. I usually buy the 125 TNT in the 500x box online, which I stocked up on before the recent craze, so I've been ok. I currently use a powered trim on top of a sizing die (Whidden) when I convert from 556 to to 300Blk (no chop saw needed). So essentially I am annealing after conversion sizing and trim to final length. In my opinion this is essential as the necking operation produces a lot of work hardening that the annealing process resolves to provide the proper neck elasticity. Once I go to reload, I will still run them through a sizing die (Hornady) before loading to insure headspace is consistent. Considering Harbor freight sells 3-packs of 100tooth blades for $10, I don't see any reason to ever use an abrasive blade. My chop saw is a slightly larger version made by HF that I bought a high tooth count blade off of eBay for $15. That blade has converted a couple thousand cases and is still in great shape. I suppose walnut tumbling after an abrasive saw would be better than nothing, but once abrasive grit is in the process, it hard to ever be 100% sure it will never be a problem. It would be possible for the abrasive to embed in the brass such that walnut doesn't break it free, but it's probably a low likelihood.
I asked you where to get the new Lake City brass, lol. Who knows, maybe they’ll get more in someday 🤷♂️ Thanks for remembering and mentioning it. Good luck with that 10-point you’re after !!
I use those trimmers from lee too, but I find it's actually easier to chuck the trimmer in a drill, and the case holder in a vice. Very quick and easy.
I do just the opposite I chuck the case holder in a drill and then use the Lee trimmer with the wooden ball type holder… works real good and is pretty fast…
Drill and tap a small hole in the side of the case holder, screw in a small machin screw backed up with a nut. Gives a lever for tightening and loosening. 😉
funny you posted this video. ive been watching your 300BLK playlist all the way thru and was making 300BLK brass earlier. Love the content man, gave me alot of ideas with this series.
I like your format for your videos! You dont edit out the steps you took to get to a perfect load...and those steps are sometimes the most important as we start a load and think, dang...it worked out so much easier for the dude in the video! Great stuff, I am going to look into that jig. Appreciate the time, and hope you got that 10 point last season!
Thanks for posting this video. I do about the same with my brass. turns out to be a lot of work. I have a DIY 3dprinted prep station that works great (4 stations for inside/outside chamfer, primer cutout and primer clean out. Also. I made a DIY case trimmer out of a drill motor/chuck that has the Little Crow trimmer chucked in it. Works pretty well. I hope you mount the saw on some sort of fixture. Mine is mounted on a board that I clamp to the bench so I don't have to chase it around. That would drive me nuts.
Watching this video again… that blade is walking back and forth when it’s “hunting” for the area to enter the brass when you apply pressure … it’s wandering all over the place.. making your brass cuts rough and gouged… the metal blade has a much smaller Kerf for sure. My mileage anyway… using a squirrel daddy jig… very similar to the style your using in this video. Still loving your old stuff! 🇺🇸
Go get that deer! Hey, plz strongly consider putting a good bit of crimp on your 300 BO rounds to ensure the bullet won’t setback easily and go into battery on a 5.56 chambered barrel! What!? Yes, really. Never you say? Hope is not a strategy, friends. Disassemble the bolt and pull the firing pin (for safety sake) if you want to test what I’m saying. Low neck tension, no crimp, and a forward assist can lead to problems for a round that looks very similar sitting in a pile of .223s. I’m searching for a bullet that has a cannelure at the right length for a 300 BO deer round myself! Enjoyed this one, Johnny!
I use Lee trimmer in my drill. Trim to length, debur and brush then drop out and chuck up the next one. I do this on most rifle calibers. I use the hornady 150gr sp bullets for plinking and hunting. Also use them in 308 and 30-06.
I have had excellent results with Lil Gun behind a Sierra 125 gr. spitzer Pro Hunter. Groups sometimes at .5 moa to around 1.5 moa...Great process video. It's a lot of fun to find what does and does not work. The bandaid is a nice touch!!
I loved Vmax's in my 10" barrels. I wish they still made and sold them in the 500 round boxes at midway. I realize they're just green Vmaxes but the bulk pricing was stellar. Now I use Speer varmint TNT's with good results.
Great video jrb . Got lot of factory brass my self saved for when I started doing 300blk myself. Not sure ever go for the makeing brass myself . Can't wait testing on the 150gr in and more on the 110. My bear creek 16inch heavy barrel realy likes factory 125gr and 110gr so where going to try but may look into 150gr or 130 gr area also . Sorry here deer season was rough. Still time in ohio like u said and late muzzleloader. Like to see more old 357 back on channel
Love your videos Johnny. If I may make a suggestion, the easy way to position that jig is to use a properly formed piece of brass and adjust the jig position to the saw. It will be a touch Ling but after cleaning up the edges you'll be very close.
I got a nice 7pt with my .308, 165gn sierra SBT, 44.9gn N140, and a meat buck with my 16" 300 blackout, 120gn Barnes 17.5gn H110. Thank's for the vid and good luck out there
I had posed the question (under another question) to Johnny on the last Creedmoor video - did you get a deer yet? Now we know. Go get 'em Johnny! Due to deer being an introduced pest species here in NZ we are lucky in the regard that we can go hunting/fill the freezer 365 days a year 🙂
I didn't see a single deer today and now my season is over. I have awesome quality deer on my land but just no quantity. Sometimes they're just not here. I had opportunities during the first week but was waiting on that big buck. Should have put one in the freezer before I started passing anything up. I think I'm going to pull out my 357 Magnum carbine and head over to Ohio next week, if I can make the time. I also have a late muzzleloader season in a few weeks. I can just dump out a bunch of corn and smoke a couple during that season if I get desperate. :)
@@JohnnysReloadingBench sorry here . Definitely be cool dump one in ohio with the 357 mag. Have seen on channel in awhile. Also late muzzleloader always a way
@@JohnnysReloadingBench fyi. Ohio gun is in now through Sunday (5th). Then again the weekend of 18-19th. If you try to go next week, it’ll be bow only.
Lil Gun powder and a Barnes 110 TSX bullet will make you a very accurate and effective deer round. The expansion on that copper alloy bullet is great. My grandson used my 300 black out several years' deer hunting. He usually gets 2 deer every year. It's good for short range shooting 100-150 yards max. Only recently has he moved up to a 308. He did use a 6.5 Grendel one year before that.
RCBS power case trimmer, will give you a consistent length each time after sizing rough deburr and neck trim. Deburr of neck care mouth opening is taken care of while trimming case overall length by trimmer head. Clean primer pocket. Resize second time for uniformity of neck and done. Ready to load.
I trim to 1.355" for the cases and 20.2grns of H110 for 110grn bullets and really like the Barnes tactx. They work great and have proven them selves against 7 elk. If you can find them I would definitely suggest getting into a Dillon 550 to mount their trim die and trim motor. It was worth every penny. But if you are going to stick with the harbor freight drop saw I'd suggest getting a little crow gun works trimmer. The only problem is you'll definitely need some more Band-Aids because with the 300 blackout there just isn't quite enough case to hold on to if you plan on doing hundreds of rounds you'll get a few blisters as they'll spin out from your grip. Thanks for the video Now, stop taping and go hunt!
You can get the older style powder holder as a spare part from Lee. That one is much better as you can dump your discarded chargers back into the powder holder.
I had terrible results using 110 gr Sierra HP Varmint bullets in .300BLK. for whatever reason the first couple dozen test rounds ran great and I ordered like 1500 of them, went to town trimming brass and loaded them up. And them womp womp womp.... They wouldn't run. At all. Nose up into the chamber and jammed. Switched to 300BLK mags from Magpul. Same thing. Could not get them to run at all. Had to pull them all... What a pain... Glad to see those 110gr Hornady bullets seem to be working. The Sierra load data had the COL so long only like .02" of the bullet was in the case mouth. Called Sierra and they said try seating them deeper but had no specific recommendations.
I fastened my little shop vac with the crack and crevice attachment so it was just off the blade, barely clear of the motor during the chop…. Did great eating the chips and the necks as they were cut off. It really cleaned up the process, that and the metal cutting wheels left a much nicer edge for me
Have you thought about trying the 300 Ham'r? All you need is a barrel change like the 300 BLK. 300 Ham'r is hotter, and more accurate than 300 BLK and 7.62x39.
I bought a jig from squirrel daddy and mount it directly to my chop saw it has some provisions for adjusting the length. I punch out the premiers with my de capping die. then take the sizer ball assembly out of the 300 blk die size them and then cut them to the rough length. Chamfer and deburr , put the 300 blk die back together completely resize and then trim to final length. The groups are ok as long as you are hunting semi trucks size game.
I’ll second the jig from Squirrel Daddy, it’s way better than the ball detent type. I’ve tried both styles. The ball detent allows the case to spin and allows some deviation in case length. With the SD style, you slide the case up to a hard mechanical stop, and it allows enough room the hold it with a finger.
The ZMax and Vmax haven't done well for me, but the Nosler Varmageddon have shot well with both H110 and Lil'Gun, so-so with CFEBlk. Still working on a load for my Gold dots, so I am looking forward to what you come up with.
First thing, screw or clamp cutoff wheel to Bench. Loose gear is a chopped finger waiting to happen. Second, get high speed thin metal slitting Discs. Three: throw away chop saw, and use mini- lathe and collet chucks... Presto, correct cut to lenght, little or No burr, internal or external, quick production. Doc AV
When forming 300 BLK brass I find it is better to aim for the maximum case length so that it to some extend headspaces off the case mouth. The shoulder of these cases is not large enough for consistent head spacing. This may help your accuracy problem. I also run the brass through the forming die before sawing the end off. I think this sequence produces more uniform results.
I’m partial to the zep reloading jig myself. As other have said, look at the little crow wft for trimming and get some metal blades. I’ve cut around 500 cases so far and it’s holding up great and while it leaves some burrs they aren’t nearly that gnarly! It’ll be interesting to see if you can get that powder/bullet combo to group but I’m not sure you’ve got the case volume to make that one work. It seems safe but I’d be looking for more velocity with 110s!
Is that trimmer you mentioned in addition to the harbor freight saw and jig? I’m looking to reload 300 blackout but I’m not sure what I need. It’s my first time learning to reload so I’m trying to figure out what tools and stuff I need. If I get that trimmer you mentioned what else would I need? I got my dies ordered from Lyman and I got a press and powder and primers but I don’t have bullets yet and I’ll be using 223/556 cases. I only got a dry tumbler but I’m thinking about that wet tumbler with the steel medium. I’m wanting really really shiny cases just cause I like the way they look and feel.
@@piplup10203854 dry media can work just fine but cut a dryer sheet into strips and throw it in along with a used old one also cut into strips to keep the dust down. My cases look as good as new when I pull them out. The trimmer I mentioned is to cut the formed cases to the proper length prior to loading, and yes it’s an additional tool but it makes it much quicker and easier to trim to length. So clean, cut, size and form/deprime, trim, load is the process I follow deburring after any cutting. I don’t check my notifications often but hopefully that helps.
@@Alero2k4 Ah, I see. Cut a dryer sheet, got it I’ll take note of that! Thanks for laying it out like that. I believe I got everything I needed to start I’m just a bit intimidated on the trimming to proper length and I’m lost on the exact procedural steps so that helps out a ton! I appreciate you getting back to me.
For trimming, look into the worlds finest trimmer. It indexes off the shoulder so it becomes super quick and easy to trim the mouths after forming Glad to see some more blackout content from you. Those Speer gold dots are my favorite projectile for blackout, I look forward to seeing what you do with them.
I bought mine quite a while ago so maybe their QC has gone down since then, but anecdotally I've had success and not heard anyone else echoing your opinion of them. Perhaps you could elaborate? As it stands your reply doesn't add much to discussion.
@@pztgst Nevermind Im not talking about the little crow works or whatever one but didn’t your comment say something about ebay before!? I bought one made out of delrin with a end mill in it and wow it sucks! Is this what you are flapping about?
@@Eroc556 Ahh that makes more sense, I was talking about the little crow trimmer. I've not heard any good reviews of the ebay ones you are talking about and don't recommend them.
That Lee Deluxe Powder Measure is kind of a pain to set up. And it’s also kind of a pain to use it with extruded powders. But if you buy the stand that it’s supposed to be used with, it’ll dispense into a pan real easily. It works super nice with ball powder! CFEBLK measures nearly perfect every time. So does CFE223 and 3N38, even though vv is a little chunkier
I shoot my 300 BLK supersonic too. Mine likes the Hornady 110gr SP Varmint #3010 with H110/296 or Lil' Gun powder. I get 1" 3 shot groups at 100 yards all day long. I also had good results with the Speer TNT 125gr HP with the same powders.
I bought a jig from squirreldaddy many years ago for making 300 brass. It seems to work a little better than the one you are using and you DEFINITELY NEED A NEW BLADE...😀
I used to use the Lee case trimmer. What a time consuming endeavor. Holub machine and repair, llc makes a caliber specific trimmer. Set the case length and chuck it in a drill. It will trim cases as fast as you can feed them. They have an ebay store as well. WCT "worlds cheapest trimmer", I wear a mechanics style glove to hold the case. Very fast method.
Cfe blk and 110 v max worked and grouped great for me. Even took a deer with it one shot one kill but was not happy with the bullet expansion double lung pass through he went 15yards before he fell but both holes were the same size and the lungs were intact with a 30 cal hole though both. I’m thinking about 110 sierra 2030 hollow points next time. Also was a 10.5 barrel
Love the 300 BLK! Try 125 Speer TNT with 20 Grns of lilgun. 10 shot 1 MOA groups at a 100 yards all day long. Bullet performance is amazing even with a varmint bullet. 2280 fps at 1450 energy. Good deer killer!
I don't know if it is still out there, but I use the Squirreldaddy jig for cutting my cases. Mounted a die grinder to a spring loaded hinge and mounted the rig to a steel base. Works great! Have you tried the 85gr pellets yet? Works out to 2550 fps... I have bought TREX 85gr Copper Poly tips, and 85gr Penetrators. I was concerned with them being short but they chamber from the mag.
I know you're an extremely advanced reloader, but just a 'share' for the record. I shoot Federal Fusion 150 Grain / 1900 FPS and Gorilla 115 Grain Pig Punisher and I consistently get sub-MOA groups out to 250 yards. I highly recommend both if a person doesn't have your amazing skills!
I got in the habit of cutting them a tad long, then using the little crow cutter to trim to consistent lengths. Have a different jig, but once I had it set, it's never been moved.
Be sure to mention that the wall thickness of the neck should be trimmed to no thicker than .0135 as some barrels have tighter tolerance than others which will cause chamber jam. You can use a Hornady Neck Trimmer, and resize a second time after neck trim to ensure spec of case neck. Some cases are thicker side wall and must be trimmed much like a lathe to proper wall thickness of newly formed neck. Had issue with that but trimmed neck stopped any chamber jams, even in match grade barrels.
What i do is i form it first with the 300 sizing die without the expander in it just to get my shoulder so when i i cut it i dont have to guess as much where i need to set my jig. Now that i just leave it clamped in the saw i dont have to guess at all. But for me forming it first speeds thing up and eliminates a step cause i tumble my brass then lube it size it then cut it and a quick tumble to clean the lube off it. So for me it just makes things easier and faster forming it then cutting it. Takes alot of guessing out of the equation
I run my 110s over 20gr of H110/W296 with a small rifle magnum primer. 2350 fps through my 16" 1:8. I run 125s over 18gr of the same powder and same primer and velocities are 2250 fps.
1.) I still don't understand why people want to destroy perfectly good 5.56 brass when a.) factory 300 Blk brass is readily available and b.) commercial 300 Blk brass has a larger case capacity. I got my best deer load with once-fired Remington brass, 21.0 grains of LilGun, and the 125 grain Nosler ballistic tip: around 1.25 inch groups and a little under 2400 fps from my "cheap" 16" CMMG barrel. Haven't had a shot at a deer yet, but the 90 pound pig I hit with one had a complete pass-through with about a 1 inch exit hole and it dropped on the spot.
I think you might have sparked some interest in the saw, there's tons of reviews on harbor freight for their 2 inch bench top saw that mention cutting down brass for 300blk
The problem with your group was more than likely your powder changes and type of crimp. step down that powder charge by 3 grains and use a factory style crimp. That should tighten up your group with the ZMax if that doesn’t work try using a standard small rifle primer with the same 3 grain reduced load.
Whew BR-4s for 300AAC. Dang, using the expensive primers. 300AAC is one of those cartridges which after having to trim 100, you will immediately invest in the RT1500 and 300AAC trim die from Dillon. I can cut and size 1000, 223 cases down to 300AAC in about 30-45 min. Worth every penny I spent on it. I also use it to trim 223 range brass. It can cut a 223 down to 300 in about 3-4 seconds with no leftover burrs.
Love your videos, I've made a ton of 300 blackout myself. Your using the wrong blade on you mini saw. That abrasive blade is for ferrous metals. you should use the high speed steel metal blade. It leaves a much cleaner result
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My daughter took her first deer this year with a 300blk using 110gr vmax, CCI #41 and 21.6 of lilgun. It's a 9" Ballistic Advantage barrel and pushing those at an average Muzzle velocity of 2075FPS. It mushroomed beautifully at .45" and accuracy was pretty impressive too.
I love the 110 vmax. It’s been good on Texas hogs as well. Congratulations to your daughter.
Congratulations to her!
I have that exact same BA barrel on my 300 blk pistol. It also loves the 110 Vmax. Honestly, it's my favorite all around loadout for it.
I learned the hard way when trimming alot of brass with a drill. The cutter got worn at that spot and I needed a new cutter. Other calibers were fine as it was only that spot on the cutter. I was trying to make 38spcl cases out of 357 mag. At the time I thought it was a good idea. Of course it wasn't but I think the drill speed was too fast. Something to consider if trimming in bulk
Awesome! Congrats! I’m taking my 8 yr old granddaughter out to the stand sometime this week and she also shoots my .300blkout. I have an 11.5” pistol upper I built a few years ago. I just swapped out the hard plastic KAK Blade and put a SB Tactical SBPDW brace on it this year along with a 3 lb trigger and she loves it! She had a bit of a hard time pulling the trigger on the old Winchester 30/30 deer rifle! She had to use TWO fingers to pull it, lol! With the new brace being softer rubber and adjustable to her pull length, and softer trigger she loves it and rings steel at 100 yards with a Vortech Sparc II red dot! She has accompanied me the last 2 years but this is the first year she wants to shoot. I couldn’t me more proud! Well, maybe if she takes one! LOL
If you get the small saw blades it cuts cleaner. No abrasive burs.
You beat me to it
I'm going to pick up a pack next time I'm at HF. I think these are the ones. www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-3-2-inch-cut-off-wheels-42805.html
@@JohnnysReloadingBench Yep, those are the ones.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench I'm guessing those steel blades will make the brass spin even more. You need a better jig.
Thanks! I was wondering the same. Mine came with the 2" saw blade.
You're using a sanding/grinding blade which has a thicker kerf (width of the blade). You need to use the metal cutting blades with teeth (3 pack for $10 at Harbor Freight). You'll get the trim length you need. Also, as someone who has converted thousands of brass to 300BLK, resize first then cut. It's much easier to get square-ish, then I use a universal case trimmer then chamfer and debur.
it was very PAINFUL to watch this guy do this lol
Also that "jig" he has... straight up made via a 3d printer lol
@@deandalapanda I've converted about 1500 cases using a 3D printed jig. All within SAAMI spec.
@@jaredcrowley5666 Still the same advice to size then cut? I've been saving up a lot of 5.56 brass until I got my silencer, and since the Form 4 is processing I see this as a good point to start.
@@ALovelyBunchOfDragonballz I've always sized, then cut so as to take any guesswork out of OAL changes that may occur during resizing. My OOO for converting 5.56/.223 has been:
1. Decap and inspect
2. tumble/dry
3. Lube and resize
4. Cut
5. Trim
6. Chamfer/debur.
I've also noticed that some head stamps have thicker brass at what used to be the sidewall and is now the neck. If it's above 14 or 15 thousanths I also anneal before loading to keep from occassionally crushing the shoulder at the seating step. I've since added a liquid car polish to my wet tumble rinse cycle and it does seem to make for smoother seating regardless of annealing or not, but that's anecdotal.
@@jaredcrowley5666 thank you for the advice 👍
I use a 300blk brass already formed as my guide when setting my baby chop saw. I like that jig you got from Etsy. I'm using a smash mold I made with JB weld as my jig. The mold line for the rim holds the 5.56 brass perfectly and then I get chase down all the cut necks. Then into my Lee quick trim die. Once formed and trimmed to length, one more tumble to clean the chips out. Always a great evening. 👍
Ah 300blk. One if my favorite series. Looking forward to the upcoming videos and good luck on the hunt!
I started making my own 300 blackout brass about 2 years ago. I found that thin metal cutting saws are more precise and create much less burrs.
Hell yea! Shot a bug back on opening day in PA with my .300 blackout. I really need to start reloading. I have the components and materials but haven’t started yet. I love this channel.
Great Video, Johnny and I just started reloading 300 BLK OUT, so this really helps. I looked at your earlier series to get started. I already had some IMR4227 powder and used it to reload an initial and using 150Grn FMJBT. 16.7 Grns of Powder pushes them about 1800 FPS. Thanks again, FletchMan
Semi pro tip. That lee powder drop set up.... the lid allows you to screw in a typical 1lb bottle of powder.
Also the plastic replacement drums actually work better, oddly. They have finer adjustment and seem to run smoother.
Love your videos man if it wasn't for you I would never have got into reloading I have been doing 9mm for a while now going to start doing rifle rounds (6.5 cm, 300 bo, and .223 ) so been watching all your videos on repeat lol thanks for the videos!!!
Real men make their own 300B brass and reload subs and supers.
Studies have shown that women are 30% more attracted to men that reload, builds ARs, cooks great meals, and makes them laugh.
I like my brass at 1.363, according to Hodgdon.
You definitely need a Little Crow 300B base trimmer.
A good jig and fancy trimmer are definitely a must if you're going to do this very much.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench Yep. The little Crow case trimmer on a hand drill or drill press is the way to go.
Jig wise, I've been using one from Squirrel Daddy and have had zero issues or irregularities.
As I type this, I'm actually watching your 300B episode 23 220gr SMK subsonic video. Winchester 296 seems to be a good powder for both subs and supers.
Home run again JRB. . Thanks man for the great video. .I just got into 300 and funny enough bought the same crap you did. Santa is bringing me the final parts for my 300 PCC build with a can.. So I cant wait to load some subs with my converted brass.
Great video. I've been converting mixed headstamp brass and most of it is fc. I bought a similar chop saw but got my jig from amazon. It simply gets clamped in on the existing saw and after a bit of adjustment it cuts just where I want it. I went the route of 125 grain bullets for deer hunting and range fodder. I picked up some Nosler Accubond in that weight and put W296 behind it and so far it seems good. Definitely minute of Bambi.
I learn to load 300 BLK watching your videos. Thanks so much Johnny!!
Very nice, straightforward video. Thank you for sharing your work. Have a Merry Christmas!
So glad to finally see you make another 300 blackout video like the old days. Been a subscriber for five years now love the content bro!!
As someone who has converted over 5k LC 556 to 300 Blk for my own use and tried almost everything, here's my thoughts:
1. I'd be super nervous about using an abrasive blade for this. The likelihood you get a piece of grit in your sizing die and score it is way too high, IMO.
2. Us a fine tooth blade on the saw and don't be too shy about the rate that you feed the blade in. Too slow and you're likely to spin the case, too fast and you stall the blade. In the middle is a nice moderate speed that starts quickly and cuts reasonably clean. Burrs are to be expected, but they shouldn't be terrible most of the time. If the case spins easily when cutting, try giving the ball detent a 1/4 turn tighter.
3. I don't think I've ever seen a great group from 300Blk with a 110 V-max. I'm sure with some tweaks you'll get the groups to shrink a little, but don't feel bad if you're never really happy with the accuracy. It's not you.
4. My go to general purpose bullet is the speed 125 TNT, they're cheap'ish and offer more expansion and velocity than the 150 FMJBT that often used in budget loads.
5. The 150 Speer gold dot can get amazing accuracy. Can't wait to see what you get them to do. I really want to buy some, but they've been out of stock everywhere for forever.
6. You might consider annealing the case mouth since you remove almost all of the 556 annealing when you convert. If accuracy is your main goal, the improved neck tension consistency could make it worth the effort.
I also prefer the 125 tnt’s 👍🏻
My partner uses the Speer 125s for plinking with her FAL. They've been really hard to come by as you say, but recently she found a couple boxes of the hornady 125gr JHP for a reasonable price at her local gun store. Have you used them, and what do you think of them? Also inre to annealing, would you do that after cutting and trimming but before necking down? And if one's only choice was to use an abrasive blade, do you think tumbling overnight with walnut would sufficiently reduce the risk of getting a piece of grit in your sizing die? Whatabout tumbling with some other medium, or wet washing?
@@chironchangnoi I have not used the 125 JHP, but I'll keep my eyes open for them. I usually buy the 125 TNT in the 500x box online, which I stocked up on before the recent craze, so I've been ok.
I currently use a powered trim on top of a sizing die (Whidden) when I convert from 556 to to 300Blk (no chop saw needed). So essentially I am annealing after conversion sizing and trim to final length. In my opinion this is essential as the necking operation produces a lot of work hardening that the annealing process resolves to provide the proper neck elasticity. Once I go to reload, I will still run them through a sizing die (Hornady) before loading to insure headspace is consistent.
Considering Harbor freight sells 3-packs of 100tooth blades for $10, I don't see any reason to ever use an abrasive blade. My chop saw is a slightly larger version made by HF that I bought a high tooth count blade off of eBay for $15. That blade has converted a couple thousand cases and is still in great shape. I suppose walnut tumbling after an abrasive saw would be better than nothing, but once abrasive grit is in the process, it hard to ever be 100% sure it will never be a problem. It would be possible for the abrasive to embed in the brass such that walnut doesn't break it free, but it's probably a low likelihood.
great viseo johnny. your 300blkout videos were my favorite
praise the god of blackout videos, loved it johnny, can't wait for the next one
I asked you where to get the new Lake City brass, lol. Who knows, maybe they’ll get more in someday 🤷♂️ Thanks for remembering and mentioning it. Good luck with that 10-point you’re after !!
I use those trimmers from lee too, but I find it's actually easier to chuck the trimmer in a drill, and the case holder in a vice. Very quick and easy.
I do just the opposite I chuck the case holder in a drill and then use the Lee trimmer with the wooden ball type holder… works real good and is pretty fast…
@@joerenfroe6874 nothing wrong with that, especially since it's made to be used like that lol.
Drill and tap a small hole in the side of the case holder, screw in a small machin screw backed up with a nut. Gives a lever for tightening and loosening. 😉
funny you posted this video. ive been watching your 300BLK playlist all the way thru and was making 300BLK brass earlier. Love the content man, gave me alot of ideas with this series.
Great as ways! Glad your back to doing videos regularly!
I like your format for your videos! You dont edit out the steps you took to get to a perfect load...and those steps are sometimes the most important as we start a load and think, dang...it worked out so much easier for the dude in the video! Great stuff, I am going to look into that jig. Appreciate the time, and hope you got that 10 point last season!
Thanks for posting this video. I do about the same with my brass. turns out to be a lot of work. I have a DIY 3dprinted prep station that works great (4 stations for inside/outside chamfer, primer cutout and primer clean out. Also. I made a DIY case trimmer out of a drill motor/chuck that has the Little Crow trimmer chucked in it. Works pretty well. I hope you mount the saw on some sort of fixture. Mine is mounted on a board that I clamp to the bench so I don't have to chase it around. That would drive me nuts.
Been a while since you have broken out the 300 blk. Nice to see you on a regular basis again though Johnny. Thanks
Watching this video again… that blade is walking back and forth when it’s “hunting” for the area to enter the brass when you apply pressure … it’s wandering all over the place.. making your brass cuts rough and gouged… the metal blade has a much smaller Kerf for sure. My mileage anyway… using a squirrel daddy jig… very similar to the style your using in this video. Still loving your old stuff! 🇺🇸
Go get that deer! Hey, plz strongly consider putting a good bit of crimp on your 300 BO rounds to ensure the bullet won’t setback easily and go into battery on a 5.56 chambered barrel! What!? Yes, really. Never you say? Hope is not a strategy, friends. Disassemble the bolt and pull the firing pin (for safety sake) if you want to test what I’m saying. Low neck tension, no crimp, and a forward assist can lead to problems for a round that looks very similar sitting in a pile of .223s. I’m searching for a bullet that has a cannelure at the right length for a 300 BO deer round myself! Enjoyed this one, Johnny!
I use Lee trimmer in my drill. Trim to length, debur and brush then drop out and chuck up the next one. I do this on most rifle calibers. I use the hornady 150gr sp bullets for plinking and hunting. Also use them in 308 and 30-06.
Good timing for this video. I am planning on converting 500 very soon.
Thanks
Never mind all that... Good luck with your hunt!!!
I have had excellent results with Lil Gun behind a Sierra 125 gr. spitzer Pro Hunter. Groups sometimes at .5 moa to around 1.5 moa...Great process video. It's a lot of fun to find what does and does not work. The bandaid is a nice touch!!
Measure the case to target length and mark it with a sharpie or razor blade then adjust the jig to match. Fun video 👌👍
I loved Vmax's in my 10" barrels. I wish they still made and sold them in the 500 round boxes at midway. I realize they're just green Vmaxes but the bulk pricing was stellar. Now I use Speer varmint TNT's with good results.
Great video jrb . Got lot of factory brass my self saved for when I started doing 300blk myself. Not sure ever go for the makeing brass myself . Can't wait testing on the 150gr in and more on the 110. My bear creek 16inch heavy barrel realy likes factory 125gr and 110gr so where going to try but may look into 150gr or 130 gr area also . Sorry here deer season was rough. Still time in ohio like u said and late muzzleloader. Like to see more old 357 back on channel
Love your videos Johnny. If I may make a suggestion, the easy way to position that jig is to use a properly formed piece of brass and adjust the jig position to the saw. It will be a touch Ling but after cleaning up the edges you'll be very close.
I got a nice 7pt with my .308, 165gn sierra SBT, 44.9gn N140, and a meat buck with my 16" 300 blackout, 120gn Barnes 17.5gn H110. Thank's for the vid and good luck out there
I think you just saved me some money and headache. I’ll be looking at other jigs now. I’ll probably get the little crow trimmer to do final trim
I had posed the question (under another question) to Johnny on the last Creedmoor video - did you get a deer yet? Now we know. Go get 'em Johnny! Due to deer being an introduced pest species here in NZ we are lucky in the regard that we can go hunting/fill the freezer 365 days a year 🙂
I didn't see a single deer today and now my season is over. I have awesome quality deer on my land but just no quantity. Sometimes they're just not here. I had opportunities during the first week but was waiting on that big buck. Should have put one in the freezer before I started passing anything up.
I think I'm going to pull out my 357 Magnum carbine and head over to Ohio next week, if I can make the time.
I also have a late muzzleloader season in a few weeks. I can just dump out a bunch of corn and smoke a couple during that season if I get desperate. :)
@@JohnnysReloadingBench sorry here . Definitely be cool dump one in ohio with the 357 mag. Have seen on channel in awhile. Also late muzzleloader always a way
@@JohnnysReloadingBench fyi. Ohio gun is in now through Sunday (5th). Then again the weekend of 18-19th. If you try to go next week, it’ll be bow only.
Lil Gun powder and a Barnes 110 TSX bullet will make you a very accurate and effective deer round. The expansion on that copper alloy bullet is great. My grandson used my 300 black out several years' deer hunting. He usually gets 2 deer every year. It's good for short range shooting 100-150 yards max. Only recently has he moved up to a 308. He did use a 6.5 Grendel one year before that.
Excellent video thanks for the process
RCBS power case trimmer, will give you a consistent length each time after sizing rough deburr and neck trim. Deburr of neck care mouth opening is taken care of while trimming case overall length by trimmer head. Clean primer pocket. Resize second time for uniformity of neck and done. Ready to load.
Kick ass thanks for the video I love what you do
Best trimmer for this is the world's finest trimmer. I only trim 300blk with one. Everything else I use the Frankford arsenal.
Good luck with the hunt!
the vmaxes work so well w/ h110 in 300 blk. wish i could get a zmax 500 box!
I trim to 1.355" for the cases and 20.2grns of H110 for 110grn bullets and really like the Barnes tactx. They work great and have proven them selves against 7 elk.
If you can find them I would definitely suggest getting into a Dillon 550 to mount their trim die and trim motor. It was worth every penny. But if you are going to stick with the harbor freight drop saw I'd suggest getting a little crow gun works trimmer. The only problem is you'll definitely need some more Band-Aids because with the 300 blackout there just isn't quite enough case to hold on to if you plan on doing hundreds of rounds you'll get a few blisters as they'll spin out from your grip.
Thanks for the video
Now, stop taping and go hunt!
You can get the older style powder holder as a spare part from Lee. That one is much better as you can dump your discarded chargers back into the powder holder.
Very cool video, blade was causing the issues for sure
I had terrible results using 110 gr Sierra HP Varmint bullets in .300BLK. for whatever reason the first couple dozen test rounds ran great and I ordered like 1500 of them, went to town trimming brass and loaded them up. And them womp womp womp.... They wouldn't run. At all. Nose up into the chamber and jammed. Switched to 300BLK mags from Magpul. Same thing. Could not get them to run at all. Had to pull them all... What a pain... Glad to see those 110gr Hornady bullets seem to be working. The Sierra load data had the COL so long only like .02" of the bullet was in the case mouth. Called Sierra and they said try seating them deeper but had no specific recommendations.
Love ya Johnny keep up the good work
I fastened my little shop vac with the crack and crevice attachment so it was just off the blade, barely clear of the motor during the chop…. Did great eating the chips and the necks as they were cut off.
It really cleaned up the process, that and the metal cutting wheels left a much nicer edge for me
Very exciting video! Idk what you’re talkin bout MR!
Have you thought about trying the 300 Ham'r? All you need is a barrel change like the 300 BLK. 300 Ham'r is hotter, and more accurate than 300 BLK and 7.62x39.
Miss you man come on back your videos are outstanding
I bought a jig from squirrel daddy and mount it directly to my chop saw it has some provisions for adjusting the length. I punch out the premiers with my de capping die. then take the sizer ball assembly out of the 300 blk die size them and then cut them to the rough length. Chamfer and deburr , put the 300 blk die back together completely resize and then trim to final length. The groups are ok as long as you are hunting semi trucks size game.
I’ll second the jig from Squirrel Daddy, it’s way better than the ball detent type. I’ve tried both styles.
The ball detent allows the case to spin and allows some deviation in case length. With the SD style, you slide the case up to a hard mechanical stop, and it allows enough room the hold it with a finger.
I’m going to be real interested in how the 150BLK performs. In my 300 Hamr it’s a game changer!!
I know I'm late to the party but I'm having great luck with 130 gr speer varmint.
The ZMax and Vmax haven't done well for me, but the Nosler Varmageddon have shot well with both H110 and Lil'Gun, so-so with CFEBlk. Still working on a load for my Gold dots, so I am looking forward to what you come up with.
I would also save the neck cut offs for making .32RimFire reloads with Ramset (light loads)! Thanks for your video!
First thing, screw or clamp cutoff wheel to Bench. Loose gear is a chopped finger waiting to happen.
Second, get high speed thin metal slitting
Discs.
Three: throw away chop saw, and use mini- lathe and collet chucks...
Presto, correct cut to lenght, little or No burr, internal or external, quick production.
Doc AV
When forming 300 BLK brass I find it is better to aim for the maximum case length so that it to some extend headspaces off the case mouth. The shoulder of these cases is not large enough for consistent head spacing. This may help your accuracy problem. I also run the brass through the forming die before sawing the end off. I think this sequence produces more uniform results.
Thank you for sharing your research
I’m partial to the zep reloading jig myself. As other have said, look at the little crow wft for trimming and get some metal blades. I’ve cut around 500 cases so far and it’s holding up great and while it leaves some burrs they aren’t nearly that gnarly! It’ll be interesting to see if you can get that powder/bullet combo to group but I’m not sure you’ve got the case volume to make that one work. It seems safe but I’d be looking for more velocity with 110s!
Is that trimmer you mentioned in addition to the harbor freight saw and jig? I’m looking to reload 300 blackout but I’m not sure what I need. It’s my first time learning to reload so I’m trying to figure out what tools and stuff I need. If I get that trimmer you mentioned what else would I need? I got my dies ordered from Lyman and I got a press and powder and primers but I don’t have bullets yet and I’ll be using 223/556 cases. I only got a dry tumbler but I’m thinking about that wet tumbler with the steel medium. I’m wanting really really shiny cases just cause I like the way they look and feel.
@@piplup10203854 dry media can work just fine but cut a dryer sheet into strips and throw it in along with a used old one also cut into strips to keep the dust down. My cases look as good as new when I pull them out. The trimmer I mentioned is to cut the formed cases to the proper length prior to loading, and yes it’s an additional tool but it makes it much quicker and easier to trim to length. So clean, cut, size and form/deprime, trim, load is the process I follow deburring after any cutting. I don’t check my notifications often but hopefully that helps.
@@Alero2k4 Ah, I see. Cut a dryer sheet, got it I’ll take note of that! Thanks for laying it out like that. I believe I got everything I needed to start I’m just a bit intimidated on the trimming to proper length and I’m lost on the exact procedural steps so that helps out a ton! I appreciate you getting back to me.
For trimming, look into the worlds finest trimmer. It indexes off the shoulder so it becomes super quick and easy to trim the mouths after forming
Glad to see some more blackout content from you. Those Speer gold dots are my favorite projectile for blackout, I look forward to seeing what you do with them.
I have one and it cuts janky no matter fast or slow! Dont buy
I bought mine quite a while ago so maybe their QC has gone down since then, but anecdotally I've had success and not heard anyone else echoing your opinion of them. Perhaps you could elaborate? As it stands your reply doesn't add much to discussion.
@@pztgst Nevermind Im not talking about the little crow works or whatever one but didn’t your comment say something about ebay before!? I bought one made out of delrin with a end mill in it and wow it sucks! Is this what you are flapping about?
@@Eroc556 Ahh that makes more sense, I was talking about the little crow trimmer. I've not heard any good reviews of the ebay ones you are talking about and don't recommend them.
@@pztgst Yes Sir I am glad you clarified it though with me so people don’t get the wrong info! 💪🏻👍🏻
My brother took a beautiful 4x3 this year with an 8.5in blackout pistol shooting (I think) 150gr Sierra gamekings. Get yours dude
That Lee Deluxe Powder Measure is kind of a pain to set up. And it’s also kind of a pain to use it with extruded powders. But if you buy the stand that it’s supposed to be used with, it’ll dispense into a pan real easily.
It works super nice with ball powder! CFEBLK measures nearly perfect every time. So does CFE223 and 3N38, even though vv is a little chunkier
I shoot my 300 BLK supersonic too.
Mine likes the Hornady 110gr SP Varmint #3010 with H110/296 or Lil' Gun powder.
I get 1" 3 shot groups at 100 yards all day long.
I also had good results with the Speer TNT 125gr HP with the same powders.
My nephew got me a littlecrow crow 300blk trimmer and it's AMAZING
I bought a jig from squirreldaddy many years ago for making 300 brass. It seems to work a little better than the one you are using and you DEFINITELY NEED A NEW BLADE...😀
Squirreldaddy jig the best option for mini cut saw, after 10K brass work super well and new blade need! Now I switch to dillon trim and size die
Damn nice buck shot pattern:)
Very impressed, you finished with the same amount of Band-AIDS as you started with 😂🤣😂. Still love the content Johnny and can’t wait for the next one.
I used to use the Lee case trimmer. What a time consuming endeavor. Holub machine and repair, llc makes a caliber specific trimmer. Set the case length and chuck it in a drill. It will trim cases as fast as you can feed them. They have an ebay store as well. WCT "worlds cheapest trimmer", I wear a mechanics style glove to hold the case. Very fast method.
Cfe blk and 110 v max worked and grouped great for me. Even took a deer with it one shot one kill but was not happy with the bullet expansion double lung pass through he went 15yards before he fell but both holes were the same size and the lungs were intact with a 30 cal hole though both. I’m thinking about 110 sierra 2030 hollow points next time. Also was a 10.5 barrel
That jig looks another better than my setup .
I had amazing results with the 125 SST and h110. 12.5" 1-10 twist
Love the 300 BLK! Try 125 Speer TNT with 20 Grns of lilgun. 10 shot 1 MOA groups at a 100 yards all day long. Bullet performance is amazing even with a varmint bullet. 2280 fps at 1450 energy. Good deer killer!
small square of loop side of velcro on deflector prevents case mouth denting upon ejection
I don't know if it is still out there, but I use the Squirreldaddy jig for cutting my cases. Mounted a die grinder to a spring loaded hinge and mounted the rig to a steel base. Works great! Have you tried the 85gr pellets yet? Works out to 2550 fps... I have bought TREX 85gr Copper Poly tips, and 85gr Penetrators. I was concerned with them being short but they chamber from the mag.
I prefer using the Dillon sizer/trimmer. Very consistent brass and much quicker.
Harbour freight metal saw blades. Much cleaner .
I know you're an extremely advanced reloader, but just a 'share' for the record. I shoot Federal Fusion 150 Grain / 1900 FPS and Gorilla 115 Grain Pig Punisher and I consistently get sub-MOA groups out to 250 yards. I highly recommend both if a person doesn't have your amazing skills!
Late to the game here but if you turn on the saw and put bees wax on the death wheel it'll stop the brass from loading up the disc.
I got in the habit of cutting them a tad long, then using the little crow cutter to trim to consistent lengths. Have a different jig, but once I had it set, it's never been moved.
Good luck 🍀
I make the brass to 1.362” as they get shorter on reloading. Subs seem to take 2 reloads, supers just 1 to fully fire form.
Thanks for sharing Johnny . Excellent , as always .
Do you think you'd get better results if the cases were annealed ?
👍👍👍
Hope you got your deer .
Be sure to mention that the wall thickness of the neck should be trimmed to no thicker than .0135 as some barrels have tighter tolerance than others which will cause chamber jam. You can use a Hornady Neck Trimmer, and resize a second time after neck trim to ensure spec of case neck. Some cases are thicker side wall and must be trimmed much like a lathe to proper wall thickness of newly formed neck. Had issue with that but trimmed neck stopped any chamber jams, even in match grade barrels.
Thanks for the video
What i do is i form it first with the 300 sizing die without the expander in it just to get my shoulder so when i i cut it i dont have to guess as much where i need to set my jig. Now that i just leave it clamped in the saw i dont have to guess at all. But for me forming it first speeds thing up and eliminates a step cause i tumble my brass then lube it size it then cut it and a quick tumble to clean the lube off it. So for me it just makes things easier and faster forming it then cutting it. Takes alot of guessing out of the equation
I run my 110s over 20gr of H110/W296 with a small rifle magnum primer. 2350 fps through my 16" 1:8. I run 125s over 18gr of the same powder and same primer and velocities are 2250 fps.
1.) I still don't understand why people want to destroy perfectly good 5.56 brass when a.) factory 300 Blk brass is readily available and b.) commercial 300 Blk brass has a larger case capacity. I got my best deer load with once-fired Remington brass, 21.0 grains of LilGun, and the 125 grain Nosler ballistic tip: around 1.25 inch groups and a little under 2400 fps from my "cheap" 16" CMMG barrel. Haven't had a shot at a deer yet, but the 90 pound pig I hit with one had a complete pass-through with about a 1 inch exit hole and it dropped on the spot.
I think you might have sparked some interest in the saw, there's tons of reviews on harbor freight for their 2 inch bench top saw that mention cutting down brass for 300blk
The problem with your group was more than likely your powder changes and type of crimp. step down that powder charge by 3 grains and use a factory style crimp. That should tighten up your group with the ZMax if that doesn’t work try using a standard small rifle primer with the same 3 grain reduced load.
I use the toothed blad for chopping them. Seems to work faster and cleaner
Hey Johnny you might get a better group if you anneal. It helped me. Good luck tomorrow
Whew BR-4s for 300AAC. Dang, using the expensive primers. 300AAC is one of those cartridges which after having to trim 100, you will immediately invest in the RT1500 and 300AAC trim die from Dillon. I can cut and size 1000, 223 cases down to 300AAC in about 30-45 min. Worth every penny I spent on it. I also use it to trim 223 range brass. It can cut a 223 down to 300 in about 3-4 seconds with no leftover burrs.
Would have been an interesting data point to measure the case volume before and after fireforming.
Suggest to tare with the brass case to eliminate pouring it in the pan and back in the container, etc., while adjusted measure...
Love your videos, I've made a ton of 300 blackout myself. Your using the wrong blade on you mini saw. That abrasive blade is for ferrous metals. you should use the high speed steel metal blade. It leaves a much cleaner result
Thanks Johnny!