99-07 F250 F350 Ball joints
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- Опубликовано: 22 дек 2021
- How to diagnose and replace ball joints. Save money and replace your own ball joints.
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Automedic Garage does not own nor claim the rights to any songs in this or other videos. This video is intended for informational and entertainment purposes. Always follow manufacturer and professional practices/advice when performing maintenance and modifications to any vehicle. Automedic Garage is not responsible for any damages or injuries incurred from attempting work portrayed in this video.
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I am no mechanic, and by no means had ever changed ball joints before owning my 99 F250 7.3, but after receiving a quote for ball joints I decided to give it a go. For under $200 I replaced the front shocks (specialty lift shocks), changed both sides upper and lower ball joints, installed new tie rod ends and sleeves, and put 3 inch lift blocks under my front coil springs, and I did it all in under 6 hours in my garage. The only special tools I used were a set of ball joint presses, a big set of pliers, and a set of spring compressors. The special tools cost me $150 total to purchase from harbor freight. Oh, and a little mini propane torch. lol. Between youtube and google, almost any man or woman can do a job like this. If I can I know you can!!
Damn my ball joints cost more than everything you bought lol
If anyone decides to replace ball joints you might as well replace the seals, bearings and u-joints on your Dana 60 while you are at it. Otherwise you be back in there in a few more years. $600 overall is about right for parts. Use Moog or Spicer brand parts where possible. A good ball joint/U joint tool is around $200 yet plenty of folks have used used or cheaper tools to get it done.
How did you set the torque on the ball joint bolts ?
I have only recently purchased an 2002 F250 superduty 4-wheel drive and your channel has helped save me thousands in labor. Any 22yr old truck needs repairs from both age and neglect. By far you are my favorite channel. Beautifully clear do's/don'ts in your narration. Thank you
I'd just like to state for the record that as a result of this video - and all the others I've watched - I have judged you to be a fantastic teacher / instructor. If I'm going to bang on my Excursions, Automedic Garage is my first stop nowadays. I don't have confidence or skill. Or talent. But I gain enough to do these jobs after spending some time here.
Thanks for taking the time!
What a compliment. Thanks bud
Very well done and explained for those that are a bit timid about doing the job.
Thank you for this video. I am working on my son F350 getting all the parts and did not want to buy the knuckle seal tool and seeing you used that 4" flared pipe will help me too.
Nicely done how to video. I did mine last year and had the same problems with the same ball joint tool
Oh man oh man. To take not rusty things apart….. Nice work dude.
Yea I do not envy y’all up north. Rust sux.
Great instructions! Thank you.
Awesome video man. Thanks.
Great work!
Great video thanks for the step by step!
Sure thing, glad to help and thanks for watching.
super helpful man. big thanks!
Your welcome, that’s what we’re here for.
Thanks for the video. It sure helped me.
Sure thing bud, glad to help. Thanks for watching.
Well done and Thanks for posting this! Ive been contemplating wether or not to take my truck to a shop definitely can do it myself after watching your tutorial. Wish you the best with your new shop.
Finishing up the job on my own truck, noticed you left the zerk off the top ball joint. Is that because of the clearance between it and the u joint? It is a bit tight.
thanks for the video it's gonna help me too doo this job
I’ve got a 02 F-350 4 wheel drive 7.3. I’m about to do them so thank you very much for your help and time to show us. I am a new subscriber, thank you very much.
Good deal. Hope it helped you out.
This is one of the best super duty ball joint videos out there. I have done this job before and getting ready to do it again. I saved my diy pipe tool for the seal to tap it in. Im sure there is a video somewhere that shows how to make it in case someone doesn't have the 4" muffler pipe.
Thanks for the compliment and watching.
Except he kinda skipped how the new joints go on. Is it pushed from the bottom up?
@@guagua8268
Removed: bottom/up
Install: top/down
@16:27 look close you can see the cup pressing downward on the joint to install.
Got my ball joint press at harbor freight years ago. I use it for so much more than just ball joints.
Me to, it’s a great caliper press, u joint press all kind of uses.
Me too! That $89 tool has served me well!
About to do mine in my v10. Thankful it's not rusty yours came sorry pretty easy.
How you like the v10. I just bought a 99 with the v10.
Thank you for this I am about to do mine!
Welcome. Hope it helps
Legend. Thank you
Great video thanks brother
Sure thing. Thanks for watching
Extre honesty is great. When money is involved its very rare. I'm impressed.
Bro thx for the vid great job as long as you have the correct tools anything is possible with a little guidance you rocked it
Thanks bud
Damm bro you made all that look very easy !!! 👍🏽
It’s not to bad a job, but I do 2-3 every month. Thanks for watching.
Great video hardly ever do you see a how to video on the same model. Took me a few hours thanks for the tutorial
Sure thing. Thanks for watching.
@@AutomedicGarage I noticed when i did the driver side bottom balljoint it didn’t have the rubber sleeve on it but when i did the passenger side it did. When I ordered them I got the same part number and the picture didn’t have the sleeve on it. Is there supposed to be a difference?
I have a 2004 f350 6.0 diesel 4x4, having problems with loose steering. Took it to a shop and they told me that I need new front hubs so I told them to put new shocks on as well. $1663 is what they charged me. Driving home same problem. I called them they said bring it back. I didn't. Went to a different shop with the same steering problems. They charged me $65 for the exam and told me that it would cost $5,300 😖. I'll be ordering my parts online and do my best to get the job done, of course with RUclips 😁.Thanks.
Tie rod ends, drag link and track bar end link bushings need to be looked at also
@@AutomedicGarage : I'm buying the whole kit to replace everything. They also said that I need a new steering gear ⚙️ box and that I need to hurry and have all of that done before I kill a family 👪 or myself, very dangerous.
@@imaslowlerner gear boxes get misdiagnosed so many times because of all the other worn parts on the front end. Do your ball joints, tie rods etc. and drive it see how it feels before you spend all that money one a gear box.
@@AutomedicGarage : I also plan to install a steering stabilizer like the one in your video.
Get rid of it quick. 2004 6.0 ford's crappiest motor
25:10 Learned my new thing for the day. Thank you. I don't have the special tool either or that nice pipe. I have a 3.5"OD to 4"OD stainless exhaust pipe that was a drop from some long time ago job. Works though for these type seals.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching
Thank you for the video! I didn’t read all of the comments so someone might have caught the procedure you used when you torqued the ball joints.I rebuilt my 60 and learned the hard way that there’s a right and wrong way to torque the ball joint nuts. The wrong way can likely give you memory steer which I ended up getting. Best way is to leave the top camber/caster spacer out while you start by torquing the bottom to 40 ft lbs then install the camber spacer just setting it in then torque the top nut to 69 ft lbs then go back and torque the bottom to 150 ft lbs. if you miss this step the top ball joint will be overloaded causing sticky steering also known as memory steer. Trust me don’t do it like this video shows because there’s a good chance you’ll get memory steer. it sucks especially after going through all the work to rebuild the front end. One more thing make sure you clean the camber/caster bushings 26:19 with Emory along with the socket in the knuckle so it fits nice and smooth this will help it seat. Hopefully this excursion in the video didn’t end up having the dreaded superduty memory steer that drives so many guys crazy trying to keep it going straight down the road.
I torqued them in the correct sequence. I wouldn’t send a customer home with memory steer.
Thanks!
Just ordered kryptonite ball joint set for my 02 F350. I ask the ball joint question on a 7.3l Facebook technical page and spicer seemed to be the majority of the votes with kryptonite a close second. Had several comments warning me to stay away from Moog. Factory driver side lower ball joint is bad with 138,000 miles, I also tow a 35" 5th wheel and run 35x12.50 tires. We'll see how long these krypto's last. Diesel power products had them for a great price.
Nothing wrong with kryptos, I’ve just had to much success and my parts supplier gives to good a warranty to not use moog.
Thanks for this great video. Planning on doing this job on my '03 F-350 Superduty 4X4. Can you comment with the brand and part number of your ball joint service tool kit? Do you like the one you have or have a better recommendation?
OEM tools 27089
Loved the video, I did my wheel bearing a couple of years ago, didn’t do the ball joints now I’m going in to do ball joints. Does the camber sleeve on the upper ball joint come out when you press out the upper ball joint? Is there a certain setting I need to be aware of when installing? Thanks again, great instruction!
Sleeve stays on the spindle perch on the truck. Just remove it clean it and set it back in. When you torque the upper ball joint it will pull it down.
What about mevotech supremes? I've had good experience with them but I'm not a full time mechanic so I dont have the experience to make a good call. I especially like mevotech TTK lineup too. They seem pretty heavy duty
I’ve actually never used mevotech, the moog ball joints for superdutys are still USA made which is another reason why I’ve stuck with them.
I got moog ball joints for both sides at orileys & connecting rods + a grease gun and grease with a new steering stabilize for under 500$ and bought the best they had to offer 💪 I'm not a mechanic but know this is too easy to let the dealership rob me
Good for you, that’s why I do this to encourage and help people work on their own stuff. Thanks for watching.
Thank you much for putting this video together. Where did you get the 4” pipe with a flare?
It was part of a down pipe I had laying around
Great video. Been watching a bunch of them. Question - 2001 F-350 7.3 - ball joints don't have any play and were replaced a few years ago before I got the truck. My issue is steering memory. Can I fix this problem be retorquing the ball joints (remove them and reinstall) or do they have to be replaced (since now they are possibly ruined from being installed incorrectly)?
Sometimes you can sometimes you can’t. Worth a try.
Nice vid! I’ve watched several others and all spec the same upper and lower ball joint but torques as you. In my Ford SD manual for 99 it specs both nuts at 101 ft-lbs. Is the difference a Moog thing, Ford thing, or ??
I have never seen anywhere that states both torqued to 101. I have always pretorqued lower to 35ft lbs then upper to 69 then lower again to 150 and have never had a binding or stiff ball joint. I know moog, TRW and precision all state the same order with the same or nearly the same torque specs.
Thanks for the fast reply. I’ll go with the Moog specs. If you are interested PM me with email address. I can send you the pics with Ford spec right out of the factory service manual.
Can you do a follow up vid with the sequence of torques?
Thanks a ton. Doing these and full steering linkage on my 03 F250. I don’t have air tools, but do have the ball joint press kit from Harbor Freight. Hope that with regular hand tools/breaker bar etc. is enough. Anyone have recommendations? Thanks again
You should be fine, a impact just makes the job a ton faster.
@@AutomedicGarage thanks man
Have to sub I’ve seen this video 6 times! My problem is one of my new lower ball joints just spins when I try and tighten it :( so I’ll get it tight with a wrench and hex socket but know way to torque it right like the other side oh well
Put a floor jack under the spindle and lift up using the weight of the truck to press down on a taper of the ball joint and it should press it in tight enough for you to tighten it up.
Great idea!
Kryptonite, dynotrac, ball joints are rock steady parts with lifetime warranty ta boot. But they do come at a lil extra cost. If money's not an issue I'd go with dynotrac, if your on a budget Kryptonite, then Moog or TRQ.
I prefer moog and Dana ball joints.
Moog offers a standard ball joint and a .005 oversize ball joint. Which do you prefer?
My parts supplier doesn’t show any over size. Never used one or felt like I needed to.
How far does that axel shaft seal go into the knuckle when your putting it back in?
When you look inside the spindle, you’ll see a small lip, it’s not much of a lip, but drive it in till you see the seal just inside of it.
Whew buddy that lower joint was a challenge. Press kit was lacking the right pieces. Got her set the primitive way hammer town.
One thing you didn't touch is that camber sleeve up top. Does the book call for resetting that deal?
I didn’t use a hammer putting the ball joint in nor recommend it. I’ve made additional adapters since making this video. Seldom ever have to do anything with the camber sleeve. I’ve only had to use a adjustable sleeve or different degree from factory sleeve on a handful of jobs.
Dealer quoted 7hrs of Labor for ball joints. It's now a DIY project. How long did this take you?
It’s a 3-4 hr job for me
Do you preferred Moog over Ford OEM Motorcraft ball joints?
Yea or Dana spicer
What’s the average cost of this procedure typically? Had my mechanic quote me $8-900 for upper and lower on both sides. 2007 F350 4x2.
I charge $700 for doing all 4 ball joints. Thanks for watching.
@@AutomedicGarage that's actually not that bad my wife bought a excursion that's suspension was so clapped out the steering linkage rubbed a hole in the lower radiator hose... it's a 4x4... I had to use a 12 ton press to pop out what might be a 330000 mile Motorcraft ball joint... the cops came by after I broke it because someone reported a gun shot... bless you for not gouging someone in these current times 🙏 hopefully I'll have this back together by tonight
@@brettscott3759 thanks for watching, hope it helped.
Does doing the ball joints affect the allingment?
Not unless the collar that goes in the spindles for the upper ball joint is worn, then it would affect your camber, alignment would relate to you tie rods being worn. Thanks for commenting and watching.
I usually default to cutting the ball joint studs off with a grinder and cutoff wheel before even attempting to remove them.
I never do, no need to with the right tools.
@@AutomedicGarage I have a ball joint tool and a shop press. The studs are just always in the way unless they are tiny car stuff.
@@MissionRestomod I have made some additional adapters that are deeper that have made it easier in certain situations.
But i do like the pipe trick i bought the tool for that
👍
The problem is your cup and the Maddox Harbor Freight cup also pushes on the round part of the Balljoint .. The Maddox will mushroom over the round part and compress it and make the ball joint tight.. They need a cup that drives the on the seat of the Balljoint
That’s why I use other pieces of exhaust and such to press them on so I don’t damage anything. I don’t mushroom ball joints.
@@AutomedicGarage 18:20 the cup is pressing the balljoint in on the radius and not on the rim ..the radius compresses the rubber seal and the plastic inside the balljoint making it tighter ... The Maddox cup will expand over that radius and the cup mushrooms .....
@@whirlwind8825 that is cup I always use on these. It has the thinner lip at the face that has become slightly deformed over the years. It is not however mushrooming any ball joints I install. I’m actually working on the same truck in the video right now. Has 40k on those ball joints with no problems.
@@AutomedicGarage ruclips.net/video/H8gCwjrZ5ig/видео.html the cup has to seat on the outer flange not the radius
@@whirlwind8825 I’m not arguing that, my cup is deformed and does not damage that radius, I have since made my own cup out of some mild steel stock. I have not damaged any ball joints and stand behind my work. If you want to argue that fact go ahead I guess.
I just did moog 3 months ago and i had to replace everything i did a week ago
Never ever have I had that experience. I’ve had to fix jobs done incorrectly by others where the ball joints were torqued out of order and incorrectly causing binding.
What is the drill that you are using?
It’s a Milwaukee Fuel M18 impact.
Top doesn't require snap ring?
No snap ring on top ball joint. Only lower.
The lower the better, lot easier to put that tire and wheel back on!
Go with spicer
xrf balljoint
Where are you located
Contact info on my website. www.automedicgarage.com
No need to greese the ball joints?
Yea I grease them.
@@AutomedicGarage 👍
seems like all the 4 ×4 s have more problems than the 2 wd s why is that
Cause most are lifted running bigger wider tires and some have offset wheels like my own personal truck which puts more strain on the ball joints and bearing hubs. Not to mention a stiffer suspension which beats in them more than the 2wd. Thanks for watching.
I'm going with kryptonite ball joints and wheel bearings
I’ll have to look into those. Never heard of them. Thanks for watching
Man my knees hurt...you do a great video but your knees have to ache.
It’s before we built a big shop. Follow the videos. They get better. Thanks for watching
Kryptonite ball joints and tie rods
Jack stand be careful
We’ve grown the business a lot since this video, built a bigger shop, constant flow of work and have a 10k lift now which was a game changer. So no more jack stand unless I have a lift tied up with another truck and have to do brakes or something. Thanks for watching.
Lol the whole front linkage from moog is 1200 lol
My sister has an f-250 diesel that needs ball joints- dynamic diesel is asking 5 grand to do it- screw that -
That’s insane. That’s $1000 an hour
Great, considering that I just replaced the spindle. Off to Princess Auto to get a ball joint press. I'm going to be behind on my internet porn..
I guarantee it won't be that easy for me.
Don’t over think it. It isn’t bad. Just take your time and have the right tools.
May be a good film, but I ditched because of music.
Maybe try mute, or another channel who has complete silence. Thanks for watching.
Use timken ball joints.. everything moon now is junk unfortunately. Had a hub last less than 10k
First off timken doesn’t make ball joints, only bearings, hub assemblies, seals and some universals. Moog ball joints for all the superdutys are still USA made. Best ball joints around. I’ve had to many last to think otherwise and I put a lot in every year. As far as the hubs go, yes timken is the way to go it’s hit or miss wether you get USA made or not with them, over half their operation has moved overseas now as well. Moog hubs are also a good product, however I feel that timken is superior when it comes to bearings. Do some searching for those timken ball joints, they aren’t there. Thanks for watching.
@@AutomedicGarage my bad I meant spicer 🤣 and I truly just have a horrible taste in my mouth from moog at this point customer service was terrible as well. At least in my experience.
Great video tho!
@@mitchellpisarzewski194 well I will use moog until I see a reason not to. They are quality greasable USA ball joints that are superior to any others I’ve ever dealt with. When someone’s truck leaves my shop I want it to be in the best most reliable shape it can be in.
You are dead on about moog parts .
I like moog and I like Dana spicer. Moog is the more affordable of the 2.
Thought this was a how to video.
Did it not show you how to do it? Only thing I could have done more is do it for you. If this didn’t help you don’t have any business doing it. Thanks for watching.
Moog is junk
Well, to each their own. Regarding superdutys I’ve had excellent results with the moogs on longevity. I like their tie rod ends also what I don’t prefer of theirs is their bearing hub assemblies, for those I prefer timken. I’ll have to give the spicers a try again, it’s been awhile. Thanks for watching.
@Automedic Garage i used spicer on 18 wheelers always had good luck out of them but as far as moog goes three months and ive heard alot of other people talk about moog also and the parts place were i bought it at said they quit sale moog because of the trouble they had with it
@@robertjohnsonmetals3727 we all have our go to parts, that’s one of mine. I wouldn’t put something on a customers truck I dont trust. The moogs on my truck have been on there’s around 50k so far and I run 35s with negative offset weld wheels so the timken bearings and moog ball joints are under some stress. But thanks for the suggestion and thanks for commenting and watching.