A great way practice is to set the ISO on your digital camera to your preferred film's ISO, say Porta 400, then set your shutter speed at 500, then practice the sunny 16 rules. If you have a Fuji it will feel more film like but any decent digital camera works. Your electronic viewfinder will provide instant feedback...include the histogram or just eyeball the exposure. Once you feel you have mastered that exercise, load up a roll of film, and have at it!
Your first video about sunny 16 really helped me alot when i first started shooting film 2 months ago. and this video has helped even more. Great stuff pal. Keep it up. Stay safe.
I watched both Sunny Sixteen videos. Excellent. After all these years, I finally understand, thanks to your clear and simple instruction. Nice presentation.
I've been doing digital photography for about 8 years, now a few days ago I ordered an analog film camera to try something new. And before it‘s even arrived I‘ve already learned so much more about photography. Nobody teaches you something like this when you start with digital photography, no book nor video.
Here is a very important aspect not covered in this video though. For those looking to be more creative with their photography - you need an ND Filter. So for example instead of compensating apertures and shutter - as KingJ illustrates in the video - if you want to use a particular aperture AND shutter speed combination, you are now using an ND filter and compensating the stops in that accordingly!
He didn't cover it because if you're using the Sunny 16 rule, you're probably not wanting to shoot at f/1.4 lol (not to say it isn't possible someone would want to, just not probable). Most film photographers back in the day weren't obsessed with super wide apertures like we are today.
Thanks for the video! I never thought I could "meter with my eyes", but I found that after shooting many rolls through my OM-1, it can become second nature, with many different types of film.
I have been using sunny 16 rule since I bought my analog camera 📸 because the light meter doesn't work. The result has been amazing. The best way to understand and learn how photography works. Film photography helps me to improve my composition.
This was really helpful! I would love if you could do another video on why you would want to use certain ISO, shutter speeds, and aperture for artist effects?
For quick feedback when learning manual photography, use the M mode and Sunny 16 on your DSLR. Your settings will be saved for viewing in your photo editor. It's faster and cheaper than burning several rolls of film and waiting on the mail.
This chart reminds me of a sneaky trick my cinematography tutor mentioned a student did with Ansel Adams' "Exposure Zones" and F/T-stops. Apparently this guy drew both lines on the insides of his forearms, and would make adjustments by shifting one arm up against the other.
I would be interested in a video explaining sunny 16 with more specific lighting situations (i know to use the rule but some situations make my head ache ^^ like shooting a portrait on a bright day but the subject is shaded under the branches of a tree.. how to have his head well exposed without everything else burned.
A note worth mentioning is that stops of light in terms of shutter speed moves in geometrical scale as it is simply measuring time, it just doubles or halves, so the math is pretty simple if you need to count stops in one direction or another. Now, the Aperture moves in logarithmic scale so the numbers are quite less intuitive... bottom line is, just memorize the F-stop scale.
This really helped out. Just inherited My late uncle's Canon AT-1 I have admired for years.Unsure on Matching the Aperture and Shutter speed. just wanted to say Thank You Man. Keep it up.
Funny, I did a nice exhaustive sunny 16 chart that involves some math recently. Your paper stops of light thingies reminded me of that. If anyone's interested here, I can send you the thing ; pretty sure it's totally printable so you can put it at the back of your camera to remind you or so
@@aslipperysnake docs.google.com/document/d/1OQSMEaYPXESim3zhegRqP_kWJpF5QnNMiWE-uuYPIUI/edit?usp=sharing Here you go, sorry for the late answer. You can download it in PDF and then print it :)
My understanding is if you lower your ASA by one stop, then lower your Shutter Speed by one stop, you will remain at the same Exposure Value. If you want to overexpose by one stop, you would adjust one or the other, not both.
I don't think that's correct. ASA setting is mainly for the light meter in the camera to read correctly if you have one. The only 2 things dictating how much light is coming in is shutter speed and aperture, therefore you need to lower the shutter speed to let in more light and therefore overexpose.
The Sunny 16 rule doesn’t always work. It really depends on where you are. If you’re in a consistently sunny place, it’ll work a lot of the time. However, if you’re in London or Paris (or any other city that isn’t well lit/sunny most of the time), then this isn’t a good rule. It’s also not a good rule if you’re in a dark room, with artificial light. Sunny 16 is for STREET photography. If you’re in a dark room, let’s say at a family event, it’s not street photography. The settings will need to be different for that. I’m currently sitting in my living room, at night, with my light on, and applying this rule just causes the light meter to say that the image will be very underexposed. Keep this in mind when using this rule…
The Sunny 16 Rule was meant to be used on a bright, sunny day, when your subject is in FULL SUN. That's the original intent of this technique. Other versions like the Sunny 11 and Sunny 8 rule are for less bright days use the Sunny 16 rule as a baseline.
This is great can you talk about cameras where the shutter speed is 500 max for the older cameras. Thank you! I have some SLRs that are up to 1000 but 500 is a struggle to master. It would be beneficial!
Many thanks for the video! I just need you to please clarify the following...I’m out on a sunny day, camera set to f/16 + 1/500 (400ISO) if weather conditions change and I change my F-stop to f/11 does that mean that I have to change also my shutter speed from 500 to 1000? And I’m shooting black and white, would the “overexposing for safety” would work for me? I’ve liked and subscribed Many Thanks :)
No, if weather conditions change to make it less sunny, you would keep the shutter speed and change the F-stop to f/11. To my understanding, the examples he gives are just different settings to get the same effect. If the shutter speed is 1000 at f/11 with 400ISO, it’s the same as f/16 + 1/500(400ISO). Although I don’t really get the point of it if it gets you the same results, so maybe I’m wrong, but that’s what it seemed like he was saying.
@@jaben5489 I'm a total beginner at this but I think the point of why you would change certain aspects like shutter speed or aperature and deviate from the sunny16 rule is dependent on what you are shooting. For example, to capture a moving subject you'd want a quick shutter speed which the standard sunny16 aperture rule of f16 and 1/500wouldn't accomodate for as this may be too slow of ashutter speed. SO you'd need to alter the speed to capture the image to avoid motion blur, but to ensure the photo is properly exposed still, you'd also need to adjust the f stop. - I think.. Similarly, if you're weather conditions mean you need an f/8 f stop but you want a larger depth of field, you'll need to set it at a higher f stop like f11 or f16 but again, to ensure correct exposure, need to adjust the speed to achieve this. SOmebody feel free to tell me if I'm totally wrong - I'm here learning like everybody else!
@@xLightningbolt yeah, after looking at some more videos it seems like that’s what it is. ruclips.net/video/uyXiWF3mI2s/видео.html this video explains it really well
question: If I do as suggested and rate my 400 film as 200 and carry on taking pictures, when I take the film to be developed do they need to know that's what I did? Or is it better not to include that when taking the film in?
Love this video!!! What do you do if your camera doesn’t go past 1/1000 and you need to drop your Aperture but you can equal it? My Pentax k1000 only goes up to 1/1000 and if I want to drop the aperture to F8 it won’t be equal..
9:48 Didn't get it, so I rate my film one ISO stop over. Do I change the setting of the ISO at the camera, or just the shutter? Nobody really talks directly about changing the ISO :/
@@PRXSENTFXTURE Yeah man i got it after some thinking. Like the thing i needed to understand is, that the camera will read the value you set the ISO to (so yes, change the ISO-setting). It will then readjust the lightmeter to a less sensitive/"darker" film. So to get the lightmeter/needle/whatever to the sweetspot again, where the cam thinks the film is exposed normally, you have to adjust either the shutter or aperture. But in doing so, in the end your film gets more light than it should get, and thats what we want to overexpose. Sorry for the spelling.
Thank you for making this method clearly and helping me with ine of my loves of life...photography. I hope to shoot some amazing shots and be a continual learner as I just subscribed. Is there any reason why this video is about film photography instead of digital?
How to compensate if shutter speed max 1000 using iso 500 or 800 using this sunny 16 rule? For example, from f16 down to 2 or 3 stop but the shutter speed can't go higher than 1/1000 what should do?
Just bought a Petri 7S film camera and I’ve also purchased Fuji Superia 400 film , I can’t wait to go out and practice shooting , would you be able to give me any pointers with this camera in particular 😂🙈 I know it’s a long shot but are there any videos you have or recommend for this type of camera 🥰✨ any pointers would be appreciated, also shooting landscape in Scotland and advice for this aswell would be greatly appreciated 😂👏🏻💖
As for his first example for compensation assuming my camera does go only to 1/1000 would I need to change the ISO then? So with me having a let's say Portra 400 in my camera so my shutter speed at 1/500 and it's sunny so I should use f/16 but because of let's say depth of field I want f/8 would I then compensate by setting shutter speed to 1/1000 and IS0 200 ?? On this note, if I want a certain depth of field and a certain let say blur with the settings to get those resulting in overexposure could I just change ISO to like 50 to even it out? I'm guessing not every film is as flexible with over and under exposing on the ISO
Hi, I installed the Light Meter app on the iPhone, but there is no sign, arrow, or indication indicating the speed measurement with the lens aperture, how do I know and i put 400 iso click on the button measure. The E V 10
For over exposure shots, shouldn't it be choosing either reducing the ISO, or reducing the shutter speed? Adjusting both? doesn't that equate to the original ISO 400 and shutter 500, i.e. no change?
Thanks for this video! Just starting out with film photography and your channel is helping me massively. I've got one quick question, and if anyone else reads this and knows the answer then please do help me out:) When you talk about overexposing for safety and rating 400iso film as 200iso, does this mean I should also set the iso dial to 200, or does it just refer to changing the shutter speed? Thank you! x
Can you tell me if this is correct? So say I am shooting 200 ISO film with a 250 shutter speed on a sunny day(f16). If I see a moving car and I want a picture without trails, I would change my shutter to say 1000 and then correct my aperture by changing it to f8?
Love the dog, Aussie blue heeler by the looks. My concerns are that there are a lot of film cameras that have a shutter speed of 500, so your example of opening up to a f-stop of 8 cannot possibly work by going to a shutter speed that you do not have. So in my mind, the film speed plays a big part as well.
i have minolta SR1 and my shutter speed maxes out at 500 so what should i do if I want to shoot at a lower aperture? Just over expose and be happy or get a different speed of film?
Hi! I'm currently using a 400 iso film so according to the Sunny 16 rule, I'd shoot with 1/500, f16 and iso 400 on a bright sunny day. I was wondering what to do if I want to shoot decrease my aperture 2 stops (say f8) as the maximum shutter speed on my camera is 1/500?
If the camera accepts filters, you could throw on a polariser, they usually suck out one to two stops of light. Any more than that and you'd need to use a neutral density filter.
what i don't understand with the app is that when i give it more like f11 but the camera's light meter says it can be the Hoof or too low how do I fix this?
Sometimes the electronics within the cameras go bad due to age. It really depends on how the camera was taken cared of. I use an app light metering and also bought a light meter hot shoe attachment for my camera which is really convenient. When shooting your first roll of film, don't do what I did and use a low shutter speed out in the day... I learned my lesson
So I just purchased my first film camera, a mint condition Canon F1, the light meter works and so when I try to do the S16 it’s not really meshing with the meter. Is that because it’s in aperture mode?
This has been very helpful, thank you. I have one question...I am using the Pentax Asahi where it asks you to identify the ISO. If I want to be safe and over expose a 400 ISO....would I scroll the wheel on the camera to say 400 or 200? Thanks!
Great video and very helpful! I have a question, when I go to over-expose my film for safety, will the aperture follow along as well? So imagine it's a fully sunny day (f16) and I have a 400 ISO film and I over-expose setting my shutter speed to 1/250 instead of 1/500, will then the aperture remain f16 or would change to f22? Sorry it might be a silly question, but I am just starting out :) Thanks in advance!
Hello I am just seeing this video lol I hope you will reply, but i am new to film and i understand all that you are saying; however, what if i wanted my aperture to be f/2.8 but my camera's shutter speed stops at 1000? what would I do then if im shooting with a 200 film? thank you
what if I want to achieve that beautiful blurry background and shoot at F4 or 5.6 and can no longer compensate on my shutter speed because the fastest possible on my Pentax is 1/1000 what should I do?
911 QUESTION******* (LOL). If I'm indoors, but getting a lot of natural lighting from the sun by being directly next to large window, would you still recommend F16? Or drop down to F11?
My Canon QL17 only goes to shutterspeed 1/500. How do I shoot with a roll of Ilford hp5, iso 400 when it's slightly overcast? According to Sunny 16 I should up my shutterspeed to 1/1000 but I can't. Should I lower my iso to 200 to account for the lack of a higher shutterspeed? And what about even lower f stops?
Overcast days is a slower shutter speed not higher! Or a lower apature than 16. Iso 400 film at 1/500 would be around apature 11, 8 or 5.6 depending on how extreme the overcast is. Also iso settings dont mater if you dont use the light meter in your camera, it is only ther to tell the camera how to expose. On older cameras without light meter the iso dail was only there to remind you of the film you put in. If you want to over or under expose just use the shutter speed or apature. Dont now why he gave that as a tip, its only more confusing.
@@il6271 thanks for the reply. I was confused about the change of aperture when you go from sunny to slight overcast (happens all the time here in the Netherlands). But now it's making sense. The above video can be applied when changing aperture on the SAME light conditions, when you go from sunny to slight overcast just go from f16 to f11 to get more light in but shutterspeed should still be 1/500 on iso 400 right?
@@Tjoller 500ste van een seconde gaat samen met iso 400 ''film'' en f16 als de zon voledig schijnt zonder wolken. Als je meer licht wil ga je gewoon naar 250ste van een seconde en f16 dan heb een stop meer licht. Of je blijft op 500ste en gaat naar f11, dat geeft je ook een stop meer licht. Otewel bij een zonige dag ben je dan een stop overbelicht en als het meer bewolkt is zit je gewoon normaal in je belichting. Het kan inderdaad even verwarrend zijn, je komt er wel. als je geen lichtmeter gebruikt is de iso waarde van je film in feite je setting voor je iso. En anders even opzoeken sunny 16 en naar foto's gaan. Daar vind je afbeeldingen waar ze wolken gebruiken in verhouding met je belichting. Groeten uit Limburg!
@@il6271 hi would like to ask. My shutter is only up to 1000. Let say im shooting in an iso 400 so i should set my shutter speed to 500. BUT what if i am going to use f8 what shutter speed i use is it 1000? I hope you could help me just a beginner
This is a very good tutorial but how important is this while using a full frame mirrorless camera? In other words, should I not trust too much the camera's wysiwyg system?
Hi can i ask if the concept of sunny 16 is the same with my camera that only have 1/175 shutter speed? How can i use f16 with only 1/175 speed if it need around 1/500 ?
Great video. I am shooting Ilford HP5 film pushed 2 stops to ISO 1600. My Rolleiflex and Rollei 35S only go to 1/500th . The best I can achieve with sunny 16 is to overexpose 2 stops to f16 1/500. Is that correct ? Thanks
sorry, I just wanted to clarify: If you do f16 + 1/500th shutter speed and you decide to change to f8 + 1/1200th of shutter speed...what's going to actually change in the photo itself? If you're compensating as you make these f-stop light changes by changing the shutter speed, why change the f-stop at all? how will the 2 photos be different? same thing with the ISO - if you change the shutter speed as you change the ISO, what does the ISO change actually do to the photo? do some of these settings have more weight and affect the photo more than others?
Yes, so it all comes down to creative control f stop will determine your images depth of field. Larger apertures like f2 or f1.4 will result in shallow depth of field (background blur, smaller depth of focus) and smaller apertures like f8-f16 will result in wider depth of field (more things in focus, little to no background blur). Shutter speeds will control motion blur. Slower shutter speeds like 1/30 and 1/15 on a moving subject will result in the object being blurry. Where as a faster shutter speed will result in freezing the moving objects. When shooting film ISO never changes and ISO film is generally chosen by the available light outside. The only catch is, lower ISO films will be less sensitive to light but will have little to no grain. And higher iso films witch is more sensitive to light will have more grain but can be used in darker situations. Every variable contributes to the different aspects of an image and it’s all variable so you can control your photos outcome. Generally why people will recommend learning shooting in manual mode to have control over how the final image looks. Hope this helps out man!
@@KingJvpes Definitely helps, thanks for your quick answer! Makes a lot of sense - f16 + 1/500 shutter speed will have a wider field of depth than f8 + 1/1200, for example, even if it seems like the adjustment in settings sort of "equal" each other out! much appreciated - definitely enjoy being able to control the final image!
Question...You say to overexpose, and if ISO is 400 you say to rate ISO to 200 and set your shutter speed to 250. I thought ISO for film cannot be changed, it is what it is so how do I rate the 400 film at 200? I understand overexposing by adding one stop of light so if you have 400 film you set the shutter speed from 400 to 250, but I don’t understand adding a stop of light by changing the ISO when the ISO is 400. Thank you! You are very helpful and I love watching your videos. I think once pandemic is over I am going to try a thrift shop heeheheh 😁
Exactly. You can shoot the film at box speed, of rate it differently (pushing or pulling, and other reasons to rate tge film differentlythan box speed, may be you meter is not calibrated properly, etc.), and you need to inform the lab if you are pulling or pushing. You set you ISO only once for the entire film .You cannot change the ISO from one shot to the other one on the same film to solve your shutter speed limitation of your film camera. With digital it is different you can choose a different ISO for each shot..Also, as you said, he changed the Aperture, then compensate with shutter speed and ISO..😂😂..Almost 50% ofthe duration of this video is advertisement for Square Space..There is a lot to say about Sunny F16..which can be very accurate in the RIGHT conditions..Someone who wants to learn about this rule, should learn about exposure..I really laugh at people here buying a Leica camera ($1000 or much more) and want to learn thru this type of videos, a couple of very good books by reputable photographers for $10 to $15 on ebay, and practice,, practice,, take notes of everything, camera and lens used,, ISO, aperture, shutter speed used for each shot, light (quality, direction, etc.), date and time of the day, you will learn way much more..it is a long learning process that never ends.. I came to these videos, just by curiosity of what these guys are talking about..Sorry, no intention to offend anyone..you can write pages and pages about these type of videos..but really not worth it. Exposure is a Science, and an Art..
You develop it as 400 film, this method is just used as an easy way to understand what the overexposed settings are. Its not to be confused with pushing and pulling film which I believe you are confusing it with. Totally understandable though.
great videos, when you said about wanting to change your f number from 16 to 8, on iso 400, why would he be wanting to change the f number, because the sun had gone in slightly and it wasn't as sunny or? I don't understand quite why he couldn't just change his f number and keep the same shutter speed? thank u (: Also, can you do a video about shooting indoors using this because in the other video you said it was different indoors Thanks so much, i'm still finding it slightly complicated but i'm learning :P
@@Cameraville When using sunny 16 you dont use the iso dail, it becomes obsolete. only if you meter in your camera you need the iso to let the camera know how to propper expose. When using sunny 16 the iso dail is nothing more than a reminder for you of what film speed you are using. Just over expose by shutter or apature. The problem with using iso is that when you start metering in camera for a few shots or as a reference and the iso is at 200 and you keep your shutter speed at 250 and adjust the apature to expose for 250 you are over exposing by 2 stops, its only more confusing. iso 400 on a sunny day at f16 and 250 is over exposed by one stop, or f11 at 500th. if you want to shooy at 1000th you go t f8 for one stop over exposure. Its that simple. Keep away from the iso while using sunny 16, its only more confusing and likely to get things wrong.
I found the sunny f/16 rule very crude and mostly made for more Southern climate zones. I found a re-named sunny f/11 much more correct at ISO 100 in the mid-Atlantic US zone. It's a rule which lives more from exemptions of the rule (cloudy conditions, shadows, high contrast etc) than actually following the rule. Using any kind of light meter is much better.
A great way practice is to set the ISO on your digital camera to your preferred film's ISO, say Porta 400, then set your shutter speed at 500, then practice the sunny 16 rules. If you have a Fuji it will feel more film like but any decent digital camera works. Your electronic viewfinder will provide instant feedback...include the histogram or just eyeball the exposure. Once you feel you have mastered that exercise, load up a roll of film, and have at it!
Your first video about sunny 16 really helped me alot when i first started shooting film 2 months ago. and this video has helped even more. Great stuff pal. Keep it up. Stay safe.
Hell yea man
Glad it’s helping!
@@KingJvpes Sure is.
Do you still shoot film?
I watched both Sunny Sixteen videos. Excellent. After all these years, I finally understand, thanks to your clear and simple instruction. Nice presentation.
I've been doing digital photography for about 8 years, now a few days ago I ordered an analog film camera to try something new. And before it‘s even arrived I‘ve already learned so much more about photography. Nobody teaches you something like this when you start with digital photography, no book nor video.
Here is a very important aspect not covered in this video though. For those looking to be more creative with their photography - you need an ND Filter. So for example instead of compensating apertures and shutter - as KingJ illustrates in the video - if you want to use a particular aperture AND shutter speed combination, you are now using an ND filter and compensating the stops in that accordingly!
He didn't cover it because if you're using the Sunny 16 rule, you're probably not wanting to shoot at f/1.4 lol (not to say it isn't possible someone would want to, just not probable). Most film photographers back in the day weren't obsessed with super wide apertures like we are today.
Thanks for the video! I never thought I could "meter with my eyes", but I found that after shooting many rolls through my OM-1, it can become second nature, with many different types of film.
I have been using sunny 16 rule since I bought my analog camera 📸 because the light meter doesn't work. The result has been amazing. The best way to understand and learn how photography works. Film photography helps me to improve my composition.
Lol I took a screenshot of the video and immediately after he goes “screenshot this video and save it on your phone”
This was really helpful! I would love if you could do another video on why you would want to use certain ISO, shutter speeds, and aperture for artist effects?
Thanks a lot for a wonderful video. You have explained these important concepts succinctly and with precision.
For quick feedback when learning manual photography, use the M mode and Sunny 16 on your DSLR. Your settings will be saved for viewing in your photo editor. It's faster and cheaper than burning several rolls of film and waiting on the mail.
This chart reminds me of a sneaky trick my cinematography tutor mentioned a student did with Ansel Adams' "Exposure Zones" and F/T-stops. Apparently this guy drew both lines on the insides of his forearms, and would make adjustments by shifting one arm up against the other.
One of the best videos I have seen in RUclips related to photography basics! Great presentation skills!!
I would be interested in a video explaining sunny 16 with more specific lighting situations (i know to use the rule but some situations make my head ache ^^ like shooting a portrait on a bright day but the subject is shaded under the branches of a tree.. how to have his head well exposed without everything else burned.
I guess a lot comes with experience when shooting film. But to maintain costs and frustration as low as possible I‘d suggest using a light meter.
That's not really what the Sunny 16 Rule is for. It's for when your subject is in full, bright sunlight.
A note worth mentioning is that stops of light in terms of shutter speed moves in geometrical scale as it is simply measuring time, it just doubles or halves, so the math is pretty simple if you need to count stops in one direction or another. Now, the Aperture moves in logarithmic scale so the numbers are quite less intuitive... bottom line is, just memorize the F-stop scale.
This really helped out. Just inherited My late uncle's Canon AT-1 I have admired for years.Unsure on Matching the Aperture and Shutter speed. just wanted to say Thank You Man. Keep it up.
Great to see new generation teaches the world about old cameras, love it 😍
as soon as the lockdown finishes in my area I’m gonna go out and practice it all!! Thanks 💔
Funny, I did a nice exhaustive sunny 16 chart that involves some math recently. Your paper stops of light thingies reminded me of that. If anyone's interested here, I can send you the thing ; pretty sure it's totally printable so you can put it at the back of your camera to remind you or so
yea send me the link please
@@aslipperysnake docs.google.com/document/d/1OQSMEaYPXESim3zhegRqP_kWJpF5QnNMiWE-uuYPIUI/edit?usp=sharing
Here you go, sorry for the late answer. You can download it in PDF and then print it :)
@@redacted2871 nice! thanks!
My understanding is if you lower your ASA by one stop, then lower your Shutter Speed by one stop, you will remain at the same Exposure Value. If you want to overexpose by one stop, you would adjust one or the other, not both.
I don't think that's correct. ASA setting is mainly for the light meter in the camera to read correctly if you have one. The only 2 things dictating how much light is coming in is shutter speed and aperture, therefore you need to lower the shutter speed to let in more light and therefore overexpose.
The Sunny 16 rule doesn’t always work. It really depends on where you are. If you’re in a consistently sunny place, it’ll work a lot of the time. However, if you’re in London or Paris (or any other city that isn’t well lit/sunny most of the time), then this isn’t a good rule. It’s also not a good rule if you’re in a dark room, with artificial light. Sunny 16 is for STREET photography. If you’re in a dark room, let’s say at a family event, it’s not street photography. The settings will need to be different for that. I’m currently sitting in my living room, at night, with my light on, and applying this rule just causes the light meter to say that the image will be very underexposed. Keep this in mind when using this rule…
The Sunny 16 Rule was meant to be used on a bright, sunny day, when your subject is in FULL SUN. That's the original intent of this technique. Other versions like the Sunny 11 and Sunny 8 rule are for less bright days use the Sunny 16 rule as a baseline.
This is great can you talk about cameras where the shutter speed is 500 max for the older cameras. Thank you! I have some SLRs that are up to 1000 but 500 is a struggle to master. It would be beneficial!
Me too!
Many thanks for the video!
I just need you to please clarify the following...I’m out on a sunny day, camera set to f/16 + 1/500 (400ISO) if weather conditions change and I change my F-stop to f/11 does that mean that I have to change also my shutter speed from 500 to 1000? And I’m shooting black and white, would the “overexposing for safety” would work for me?
I’ve liked and subscribed
Many Thanks :)
No, if weather conditions change to make it less sunny, you would keep the shutter speed and change the F-stop to f/11. To my understanding, the examples he gives are just different settings to get the same effect. If the shutter speed is 1000 at f/11 with 400ISO, it’s the same as f/16 + 1/500(400ISO). Although I don’t really get the point of it if it gets you the same results, so maybe I’m wrong, but that’s what it seemed like he was saying.
@@jaben5489 I'm a total beginner at this but I think the point of why you would change certain aspects like shutter speed or aperature and deviate from the sunny16 rule is dependent on what you are shooting. For example, to capture a moving subject you'd want a quick shutter speed which the standard sunny16 aperture rule of f16 and 1/500wouldn't accomodate for as this may be too slow of ashutter speed. SO you'd need to alter the speed to capture the image to avoid motion blur, but to ensure the photo is properly exposed still, you'd also need to adjust the f stop. - I think..
Similarly, if you're weather conditions mean you need an f/8 f stop but you want a larger depth of field, you'll need to set it at a higher f stop like f11 or f16 but again, to ensure correct exposure, need to adjust the speed to achieve this.
SOmebody feel free to tell me if I'm totally wrong - I'm here learning like everybody else!
@@xLightningbolt yeah, after looking at some more videos it seems like that’s what it is.
ruclips.net/video/uyXiWF3mI2s/видео.html
this video explains it really well
Dumb question but is 500 shutter speed the same as 5 seconds?
@@Angelkaaya I think it’s 500th of a second
This is probably one of the most helpful videos for beginners here on youtube, thank you so much!
What about old cameras where shutter speeds only range to 200, are these cameras still ok to use
question: If I do as suggested and rate my 400 film as 200 and carry on taking pictures, when I take the film to be developed do they need to know that's what I did? Or is it better not to include that when taking the film in?
Love this video!!! What do you do if your camera doesn’t go past 1/1000 and you need to drop your Aperture but you can equal it? My Pentax k1000 only goes up to 1/1000 and if I want to drop the aperture to F8 it won’t be equal..
What is you're trying to shoot when its dusk/sunset. how would sunny 16 work then?
Wow!! Both your videos on Sunny 16 have helped me tremendously! Thank you so much! Your other videos are awesome as well! You’re an awesome teacher!😊
9:48 Didn't get it, so I rate my film one ISO stop over. Do I change the setting of the ISO at the camera, or just the shutter? Nobody really talks directly about changing the ISO :/
@@PRXSENTFXTURE Yeah man i got it after some thinking. Like the thing i needed to understand is, that the camera will read the value you set the ISO to (so yes, change the ISO-setting). It will then readjust the lightmeter to a less sensitive/"darker" film. So to get the lightmeter/needle/whatever to the sweetspot again, where the cam thinks the film is exposed normally, you have to adjust either the shutter or aperture. But in doing so, in the end your film gets more light than it should get, and thats what we want to overexpose.
Sorry for the spelling.
As a beginner who doesn’t really have the budget for a light meter who also wants to learn all manual this is so helpful!
Thank you, this really helps me in understanding and using the Sunny 6 rule.
Thank you for making this method clearly and helping me with ine of my loves of life...photography. I hope to shoot some amazing shots and be a continual learner as I just subscribed. Is there any reason why this video is about film photography instead of digital?
How to compensate if shutter speed max 1000 using iso 500 or 800 using this sunny 16 rule? For example, from f16 down to 2 or 3 stop but the shutter speed can't go higher than 1/1000 what should do?
Just bought a Petri 7S film camera and I’ve also purchased Fuji Superia 400 film , I can’t wait to go out and practice shooting , would you be able to give me any pointers with this camera in particular 😂🙈 I know it’s a long shot but are there any videos you have or recommend for this type of camera 🥰✨ any pointers would be appreciated, also shooting landscape in Scotland and advice for this aswell would be greatly appreciated 😂👏🏻💖
Best explanation EVER for Sunny 16!
This was super helpful! I got a Nikon FM10 for Christmas so I’m tryna educate myself before I go out there lol.
New subscriber here!
As for his first example for compensation assuming my camera does go only to 1/1000 would I need to change the ISO then?
So with me having a let's say Portra 400 in my camera so my shutter speed at 1/500 and it's sunny so I should use f/16 but because of let's say depth of field I want f/8 would I then compensate by setting shutter speed to 1/1000 and IS0 200 ??
On this note, if I want a certain depth of field and a certain let say blur with the settings to get those resulting in overexposure could I just change ISO to like 50 to even it out? I'm guessing not every film is as flexible with over and under exposing on the ISO
You just described the story of my life....always compensating for something. #CanonGang!!!
I am just starting with SLRs and this was incredibly helpful! Thank you so much. Cheers.
Hi, I installed the Light Meter app on the iPhone, but there is no sign, arrow, or indication indicating the speed measurement with the lens aperture, how do I know and i put 400 iso click on the button measure. The E V 10
For over exposure shots, shouldn't it be choosing either reducing the ISO, or reducing the shutter speed? Adjusting both? doesn't that equate to the original ISO 400 and shutter 500, i.e. no change?
Maan yous a real one for all this gold🙏🏻
I have a Pentax program plus. Not sure how to use the exposure compensation buttons. Any advice?
Thanks ! It was super helpful !
Epic and thanks, this has helped me massively as Ive shot a few films and messed it up! cheers
Thanks for this video! Just starting out with film photography and your channel is helping me massively. I've got one quick question, and if anyone else reads this and knows the answer then please do help me out:) When you talk about overexposing for safety and rating 400iso film as 200iso, does this mean I should also set the iso dial to 200, or does it just refer to changing the shutter speed? Thank you! x
I’m pretty sure he means changing the ISO (so the dial) not the shutter speed
Very good question! Is here anyone else who knows the answer?
Can you tell me if this is correct? So say I am shooting 200 ISO film with a 250 shutter speed on a sunny day(f16). If I see a moving car and I want a picture without trails, I would change my shutter to say 1000 and then correct my aperture by changing it to f8?
Love the dog, Aussie blue heeler by the looks. My concerns are that there are a lot of film cameras that have a shutter speed of 500, so your example of opening up to a f-stop of 8 cannot possibly work by going to a shutter speed that you do not have. So in my mind, the film speed plays a big part as well.
Hey! Just wanted to say thank you, your explanations where super useful and clear to me!
i have minolta SR1 and my shutter speed maxes out at 500 so what should i do if I want to shoot at a lower aperture? Just over expose and be happy or get a different speed of film?
THANK YOU FOR THIS 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻 this is the kinda content I’m lookin for
Hi! I'm currently using a 400 iso film so according to the Sunny 16 rule, I'd shoot with 1/500, f16 and iso 400 on a bright sunny day. I was wondering what to do if I want to shoot decrease my aperture 2 stops (say f8) as the maximum shutter speed on my camera is 1/500?
If the camera accepts filters, you could throw on a polariser, they usually suck out one to two stops of light. Any more than that and you'd need to use a neutral density filter.
Thanks!
what i don't understand with the app is that when i give it more like f11 but the camera's light meter says it can be the Hoof or too low how do I fix this?
Thanks for such clear explanation. It is really helpful :)
I am going to shoot my first roll and I want to apply this technique, but the light meter in my camera says something else in total what should I do?
Sometimes the electronics within the cameras go bad due to age. It really depends on how the camera was taken cared of. I use an app light metering and also bought a light meter hot shoe attachment for my camera which is really convenient. When shooting your first roll of film, don't do what I did and use a low shutter speed out in the day... I learned my lesson
So I just purchased my first film camera, a mint condition Canon F1, the light meter works and so when I try to do the S16 it’s not really meshing with the meter. Is that because it’s in aperture mode?
yo ur vid is like super easy to understand
thank u so much bro
here is a like hehe
Great vid! ❤
This has been very helpful, thank you. I have one question...I am using the Pentax Asahi where it asks you to identify the ISO. If I want to be safe and over expose a 400 ISO....would I scroll the wheel on the camera to say 400 or 200? Thanks!
if you want to overexpose you have to set it to 200 for 1 stop or 100 for 2 stops and so on. It needs more time to expose at 200 iso so you overexpose
Does sunny 16 only applies to film cameras? Or can this also applies to digital? Thanks!
Great video and very helpful! I have a question, when I go to over-expose my film for safety, will the aperture follow along as well? So imagine it's a fully sunny day (f16) and I have a 400 ISO film and I over-expose setting my shutter speed to 1/250 instead of 1/500, will then the aperture remain f16 or would change to f22? Sorry it might be a silly question, but I am just starting out :)
Thanks in advance!
By setting your shutter speed to 1/250 (instead of 1/500) you have created the overexposure. Don’t change from f16. Stay at f16.
Hello I am just seeing this video lol I hope you will reply, but i am new to film and i understand all that you are saying; however, what if i wanted my aperture to be f/2.8 but my camera's shutter speed stops at 1000? what would I do then if im shooting with a 200 film? thank you
What about NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY EXPOSURES? Can't find tips anywhere =/
what if I want to achieve that beautiful blurry background and shoot at F4 or 5.6 and can no longer compensate on my shutter speed because the fastest possible on my Pentax is 1/1000 what should I do?
ND filter.
great thanks for this video lots of information . i did screen shot this one just like the last one . its handy to have on your phone for reference .
911 QUESTION******* (LOL). If I'm indoors, but getting a lot of natural lighting from the sun by being directly next to large window, would you still recommend F16? Or drop down to F11?
When overexposing, should we change the iso AND the shutter speed? Or just one of those?
this was SO informative, thank you.
Amazing video man, thank you so much!
My Canon QL17 only goes to shutterspeed 1/500. How do I shoot with a roll of Ilford hp5, iso 400 when it's slightly overcast? According to Sunny 16 I should up my shutterspeed to 1/1000 but I can't. Should I lower my iso to 200 to account for the lack of a higher shutterspeed? And what about even lower f stops?
Overcast days is a slower shutter speed not higher! Or a lower apature than 16. Iso 400 film at 1/500 would be around apature 11, 8 or 5.6 depending on how extreme the overcast is. Also iso settings dont mater if you dont use the light meter in your camera, it is only ther to tell the camera how to expose. On older cameras without light meter the iso dail was only there to remind you of the film you put in. If you want to over or under expose just use the shutter speed or apature. Dont now why he gave that as a tip, its only more confusing.
@@il6271 thanks for the reply. I was confused about the change of aperture when you go from sunny to slight overcast (happens all the time here in the Netherlands). But now it's making sense. The above video can be applied when changing aperture on the SAME light conditions, when you go from sunny to slight overcast just go from f16 to f11 to get more light in but shutterspeed should still be 1/500 on iso 400 right?
@@Tjoller 500ste van een seconde gaat samen met iso 400 ''film'' en f16 als de zon voledig schijnt zonder wolken. Als je meer licht wil ga je gewoon naar 250ste van een seconde en f16 dan heb een stop meer licht. Of je blijft op 500ste en gaat naar f11, dat geeft je ook een stop meer licht. Otewel bij een zonige dag ben je dan een stop overbelicht en als het meer bewolkt is zit je gewoon normaal in je belichting. Het kan inderdaad even verwarrend zijn, je komt er wel. als je geen lichtmeter gebruikt is de iso waarde van je film in feite je setting voor je iso. En anders even opzoeken sunny 16 en naar foto's gaan. Daar vind je afbeeldingen waar ze wolken gebruiken in verhouding met je belichting. Groeten uit Limburg!
@@il6271 bedankt voor het antwoorden, het is mij helemaal duidelijk nu. Groetjes uit Alkmaar.
@@il6271 hi would like to ask. My shutter is only up to 1000. Let say im shooting in an iso 400 so i should set my shutter speed to 500. BUT what if i am going to use f8 what shutter speed i use is it 1000? I hope you could help me just a beginner
What if I want to shoot f2 or f4 on a sunny day 400iso but my camera has the maximum of 1/1000 ?
Use ND Filter
This is a very good tutorial but how important is this while using a full frame mirrorless camera? In other words, should I not trust too much the camera's wysiwyg system?
If im trying to push a film +1stop (400 iso to 800 iso) Do i have to change the Shutter speed from 500 to 1000? Anyone?
is it sunny 16 apply for any ISO film?
Hi can i ask if the concept of sunny 16 is the same with my camera that only have 1/175 shutter speed? How can i use f16 with only 1/175 speed if it need around 1/500 ?
if i overexpose my ISO 400 to ISO 200, do i have the film developed as normal?
Do you recommend over exposing for safety only if you’re shooting on color film or does this apply to shooting on black & white film as well?
Very helpful video. You’re great at explaining this. Thanks for the tips 🙏🤩
Great video. I am shooting Ilford HP5 film pushed 2 stops to ISO 1600. My Rolleiflex and Rollei 35S only go to 1/500th . The best I can achieve with sunny 16 is to overexpose 2 stops to f16 1/500. Is that correct ? Thanks
Ok. Does this work for black and white?
Great vid ese! Super precise and informative. Keep it up!
sorry, I just wanted to clarify: If you do f16 + 1/500th shutter speed and you decide to change to f8 + 1/1200th of shutter speed...what's going to actually change in the photo itself? If you're compensating as you make these f-stop light changes by changing the shutter speed, why change the f-stop at all? how will the 2 photos be different?
same thing with the ISO - if you change the shutter speed as you change the ISO, what does the ISO change actually do to the photo? do some of these settings have more weight and affect the photo more than others?
Yes, so it all comes down to creative control f stop will determine your images depth of field. Larger apertures like f2 or f1.4 will result in shallow depth of field (background blur, smaller depth of focus) and smaller apertures like f8-f16 will result in wider depth of field (more things in focus, little to no background blur). Shutter speeds will control motion blur. Slower shutter speeds like 1/30 and 1/15 on a moving subject will result in the object being blurry. Where as a faster shutter speed will result in freezing the moving objects.
When shooting film ISO never changes and ISO film is generally chosen by the available light outside. The only catch is, lower ISO films will be less sensitive to light but will have little to no grain. And higher iso films witch is more sensitive to light will have more grain but can be used in darker situations.
Every variable contributes to the different aspects of an image and it’s all variable so you can control your photos outcome. Generally why people will recommend learning shooting in manual mode to have control over how the final image looks.
Hope this helps out man!
@@KingJvpes Definitely helps, thanks for your quick answer! Makes a lot of sense - f16 + 1/500 shutter speed will have a wider field of depth than f8 + 1/1200, for example, even if it seems like the adjustment in settings sort of "equal" each other out! much appreciated - definitely enjoy being able to control the final image!
I have been learning so much from your Channel. You’re doing amazing work. !
I just picked up an olympus m-1 with a sus light meter so ye im about to go out tomorrow with this info. Film is expensive lmao
What if You're using a Prime Lens?
Does this work with medium format as well? Or is there any difference?
Question...You say to overexpose, and if ISO is 400 you say to rate ISO to 200 and set your shutter speed to 250. I thought ISO for film cannot be changed, it is what it is so how do I rate the 400 film at 200? I understand overexposing by adding one stop of light so if you have 400 film you set the shutter speed from 400 to 250, but I don’t understand adding a stop of light by changing the ISO when the ISO is 400. Thank you! You are very helpful and I love watching your videos. I think once pandemic is over I am going to try a thrift shop heeheheh 😁
Exactly. You can shoot the film at box speed, of rate it differently (pushing or pulling, and other reasons to rate tge film differentlythan box speed, may be you meter is not calibrated properly, etc.), and you need to inform the lab if you are pulling or pushing. You set you ISO only once for the entire film .You cannot change the ISO from one shot to the other one on the same film to solve your shutter speed limitation of your film camera. With digital it is different you can choose a different ISO for each shot..Also, as you said, he changed the Aperture, then compensate with shutter speed and ISO..😂😂..Almost 50% ofthe duration of this video is advertisement for Square Space..There is a lot to say about Sunny F16..which can be very accurate in the RIGHT conditions..Someone who wants to learn about this rule, should learn about exposure..I really laugh at people here buying a Leica camera ($1000 or much more) and want to learn thru this type of videos, a couple of very good books by reputable photographers for $10 to $15 on ebay, and practice,, practice,, take notes of everything, camera and lens used,, ISO, aperture, shutter speed used for each shot, light (quality, direction, etc.), date and time of the day, you will learn way much more..it is a long learning process that never ends..
I came to these videos, just by curiosity of what these guys are talking about..Sorry, no intention to offend anyone..you can write pages and pages about these type of videos..but really not worth it. Exposure is a Science, and an Art..
If I were to shoot a 400 speed film at iso 200 and 1/250 for overexposure based off sunny16, should i develop it as a 400 or as a 200 speed film?
You develop it as 400 film, this method is just used as an easy way to understand what the overexposed settings are. Its not to be confused with pushing and pulling film which I believe you are confusing it with. Totally understandable though.
great videos, when you said about wanting to change your f number from 16 to 8, on iso 400, why would he be wanting to change the f number, because the sun had gone in slightly and it wasn't as sunny or? I don't understand quite why he couldn't just change his f number and keep the same shutter speed? thank u (:
Also, can you do a video about shooting indoors using this because in the other video you said it was different indoors
Thanks so much, i'm still finding it slightly complicated but i'm learning :P
i love to use sunny 16
Thank you, need this cos my camera (canon p) doesn't have a light meter
I'm loving your videos and finding them very helpful as a beginner. But also bruh can you change the battery in your smoke detector? lol
Why would you want to shoot at F8 instead of F16 on a sunny day? Would F16 at 250 look different than F8 at 2000? Whats the reasoning for switching?
Out of curiosity, was your book a limited edition run, the one about sidewalks? If yes, will you ever re-print ?
overexposing the ISO only works when using either aperture/shutter priority right?? not in manual hmm
You can in manual too. Just pretend the film speed is half of what it really is.
@@Cameraville When using sunny 16 you dont use the iso dail, it becomes obsolete. only if you meter in your camera you need the iso to let the camera know how to propper expose. When using sunny 16 the iso dail is nothing more than a reminder for you of what film speed you are using. Just over expose by shutter or apature. The problem with using iso is that when you start metering in camera for a few shots or as a reference and the iso is at 200 and you keep your shutter speed at 250 and adjust the apature to expose for 250 you are over exposing by 2 stops, its only more confusing. iso 400 on a sunny day at f16 and 250 is over exposed by one stop, or f11 at 500th. if you want to shooy at 1000th you go t f8 for one stop over exposure. Its that simple. Keep away from the iso while using sunny 16, its only more confusing and likely to get things wrong.
I finally understand this, thanks!
Dude, you're awesome
Niiiice video🤩👍! Thanks a lot for this useful information!
I found the sunny f/16 rule very crude and mostly made for more Southern climate zones. I found a re-named sunny f/11 much more correct at ISO 100 in the mid-Atlantic US zone. It's a rule which lives more from exemptions of the rule (cloudy conditions, shadows, high contrast etc) than actually following the rule. Using any kind of light meter is much better.