Your first video about sunny 16 really helped me alot when i first started shooting film 2 months ago. and this video has helped even more. Great stuff pal. Keep it up. Stay safe.
I watched both Sunny Sixteen videos. Excellent. After all these years, I finally understand, thanks to your clear and simple instruction. Nice presentation.
A great way practice is to set the ISO on your digital camera to your preferred film's ISO, say Porta 400, then set your shutter speed at 500, then practice the sunny 16 rules. If you have a Fuji it will feel more film like but any decent digital camera works. Your electronic viewfinder will provide instant feedback...include the histogram or just eyeball the exposure. Once you feel you have mastered that exercise, load up a roll of film, and have at it!
This was really helpful! I would love if you could do another video on why you would want to use certain ISO, shutter speeds, and aperture for artist effects?
Here is a very important aspect not covered in this video though. For those looking to be more creative with their photography - you need an ND Filter. So for example instead of compensating apertures and shutter - as KingJ illustrates in the video - if you want to use a particular aperture AND shutter speed combination, you are now using an ND filter and compensating the stops in that accordingly!
He didn't cover it because if you're using the Sunny 16 rule, you're probably not wanting to shoot at f/1.4 lol (not to say it isn't possible someone would want to, just not probable). Most film photographers back in the day weren't obsessed with super wide apertures like we are today.
Thanks for the video! I never thought I could "meter with my eyes", but I found that after shooting many rolls through my OM-1, it can become second nature, with many different types of film.
I've been doing digital photography for about 8 years, now a few days ago I ordered an analog film camera to try something new. And before it‘s even arrived I‘ve already learned so much more about photography. Nobody teaches you something like this when you start with digital photography, no book nor video.
I have been using sunny 16 rule since I bought my analog camera 📸 because the light meter doesn't work. The result has been amazing. The best way to understand and learn how photography works. Film photography helps me to improve my composition.
I would be interested in a video explaining sunny 16 with more specific lighting situations (i know to use the rule but some situations make my head ache ^^ like shooting a portrait on a bright day but the subject is shaded under the branches of a tree.. how to have his head well exposed without everything else burned.
A note worth mentioning is that stops of light in terms of shutter speed moves in geometrical scale as it is simply measuring time, it just doubles or halves, so the math is pretty simple if you need to count stops in one direction or another. Now, the Aperture moves in logarithmic scale so the numbers are quite less intuitive... bottom line is, just memorize the F-stop scale.
This chart reminds me of a sneaky trick my cinematography tutor mentioned a student did with Ansel Adams' "Exposure Zones" and F/T-stops. Apparently this guy drew both lines on the insides of his forearms, and would make adjustments by shifting one arm up against the other.
This really helped out. Just inherited My late uncle's Canon AT-1 I have admired for years.Unsure on Matching the Aperture and Shutter speed. just wanted to say Thank You Man. Keep it up.
For quick feedback when learning manual photography, use the M mode and Sunny 16 on your DSLR. Your settings will be saved for viewing in your photo editor. It's faster and cheaper than burning several rolls of film and waiting on the mail.
Funny, I did a nice exhaustive sunny 16 chart that involves some math recently. Your paper stops of light thingies reminded me of that. If anyone's interested here, I can send you the thing ; pretty sure it's totally printable so you can put it at the back of your camera to remind you or so
@@aslipperysnake docs.google.com/document/d/1OQSMEaYPXESim3zhegRqP_kWJpF5QnNMiWE-uuYPIUI/edit?usp=sharing Here you go, sorry for the late answer. You can download it in PDF and then print it :)
The Sunny 16 rule doesn’t always work. It really depends on where you are. If you’re in a consistently sunny place, it’ll work a lot of the time. However, if you’re in London or Paris (or any other city that isn’t well lit/sunny most of the time), then this isn’t a good rule. It’s also not a good rule if you’re in a dark room, with artificial light. Sunny 16 is for STREET photography. If you’re in a dark room, let’s say at a family event, it’s not street photography. The settings will need to be different for that. I’m currently sitting in my living room, at night, with my light on, and applying this rule just causes the light meter to say that the image will be very underexposed. Keep this in mind when using this rule…
The Sunny 16 Rule was meant to be used on a bright, sunny day, when your subject is in FULL SUN. That's the original intent of this technique. Other versions like the Sunny 11 and Sunny 8 rule are for less bright days use the Sunny 16 rule as a baseline.
My understanding is if you lower your ASA by one stop, then lower your Shutter Speed by one stop, you will remain at the same Exposure Value. If you want to overexpose by one stop, you would adjust one or the other, not both.
I don't think that's correct. ASA setting is mainly for the light meter in the camera to read correctly if you have one. The only 2 things dictating how much light is coming in is shutter speed and aperture, therefore you need to lower the shutter speed to let in more light and therefore overexpose.
Cheers for these videos : I have bought a Leica M1 for fun, no lightmeter nor rangefinder : I'll have to train for mastering for both sunny16 AND zone focusing :D And your videos have helped me a lot to understand how to get over the inherent limitations of that Leica model :-)
This is great can you talk about cameras where the shutter speed is 500 max for the older cameras. Thank you! I have some SLRs that are up to 1000 but 500 is a struggle to master. It would be beneficial!
Just bought a Petri 7S film camera and I’ve also purchased Fuji Superia 400 film , I can’t wait to go out and practice shooting , would you be able to give me any pointers with this camera in particular 😂🙈 I know it’s a long shot but are there any videos you have or recommend for this type of camera 🥰✨ any pointers would be appreciated, also shooting landscape in Scotland and advice for this aswell would be greatly appreciated 😂👏🏻💖
I'm sure some people are going from video to, trying to figure out how this applies to pushing/pulling ISO. Granted, this is from someone actually spending their first day ever learning about film photography, but have had experience in digital. Everything works in stops, in which that halving your shutter speed is one stop, doubling it is also one stop. and the more you have and double, the more stops. Aperture kinda has their own system it seems so let's ignore that and assume whatever options there are for aperture is a stop higher or lower. ISO works like shutter speed. You halve it, it's over-exposed 1 stop. Halve it again, it's over-exposed 2 stops. Double it, back to 1, etc. And so in this case, we have a triangle where you can choose to keep one and change the other depending on the use case. Let's set an example. People online are saying to lower Kodak Portra 400 to 200 speed, which is over-exposed by one stop. For this example, without going into changing DoF for portraits, we'll say we're doing landscapes on a sunny day. So in usual, we would be shooting ISO 400 at 1/500 with f/22. But since we lowered our ISO to 200, we actually need to underexpose by one stop on the shutter speed. Now, we're shooting ISO 200 at 1/1,000 with f/22. So tl;dr, if I'm right, everything works in stops. In order to push or pull your film's speed, you have to choose the opposite of the exposure for your ISO. So if you pull your film, you have to push your shutter speed or aperture. And vice versa. AGAIN, I LITERALLY AM READING ALL THIS IN ONE DAY WITH NO FIELD EXPERIENCE IN FILM PHOTOGRAPHY.
Many thanks for the video! I just need you to please clarify the following...I’m out on a sunny day, camera set to f/16 + 1/500 (400ISO) if weather conditions change and I change my F-stop to f/11 does that mean that I have to change also my shutter speed from 500 to 1000? And I’m shooting black and white, would the “overexposing for safety” would work for me? I’ve liked and subscribed Many Thanks :)
No, if weather conditions change to make it less sunny, you would keep the shutter speed and change the F-stop to f/11. To my understanding, the examples he gives are just different settings to get the same effect. If the shutter speed is 1000 at f/11 with 400ISO, it’s the same as f/16 + 1/500(400ISO). Although I don’t really get the point of it if it gets you the same results, so maybe I’m wrong, but that’s what it seemed like he was saying.
@@jaben5489 I'm a total beginner at this but I think the point of why you would change certain aspects like shutter speed or aperature and deviate from the sunny16 rule is dependent on what you are shooting. For example, to capture a moving subject you'd want a quick shutter speed which the standard sunny16 aperture rule of f16 and 1/500wouldn't accomodate for as this may be too slow of ashutter speed. SO you'd need to alter the speed to capture the image to avoid motion blur, but to ensure the photo is properly exposed still, you'd also need to adjust the f stop. - I think.. Similarly, if you're weather conditions mean you need an f/8 f stop but you want a larger depth of field, you'll need to set it at a higher f stop like f11 or f16 but again, to ensure correct exposure, need to adjust the speed to achieve this. SOmebody feel free to tell me if I'm totally wrong - I'm here learning like everybody else!
@@xLightningbolt yeah, after looking at some more videos it seems like that’s what it is. ruclips.net/video/uyXiWF3mI2s/видео.html this video explains it really well
Thanks for this video! Just starting out with film photography and your channel is helping me massively. I've got one quick question, and if anyone else reads this and knows the answer then please do help me out:) When you talk about overexposing for safety and rating 400iso film as 200iso, does this mean I should also set the iso dial to 200, or does it just refer to changing the shutter speed? Thank you! x
question: If I do as suggested and rate my 400 film as 200 and carry on taking pictures, when I take the film to be developed do they need to know that's what I did? Or is it better not to include that when taking the film in?
9:48 Didn't get it, so I rate my film one ISO stop over. Do I change the setting of the ISO at the camera, or just the shutter? Nobody really talks directly about changing the ISO :/
@@PRXSENTFXTURE Yeah man i got it after some thinking. Like the thing i needed to understand is, that the camera will read the value you set the ISO to (so yes, change the ISO-setting). It will then readjust the lightmeter to a less sensitive/"darker" film. So to get the lightmeter/needle/whatever to the sweetspot again, where the cam thinks the film is exposed normally, you have to adjust either the shutter or aperture. But in doing so, in the end your film gets more light than it should get, and thats what we want to overexpose. Sorry for the spelling.
Love the dog, Aussie blue heeler by the looks. My concerns are that there are a lot of film cameras that have a shutter speed of 500, so your example of opening up to a f-stop of 8 cannot possibly work by going to a shutter speed that you do not have. So in my mind, the film speed plays a big part as well.
Question...You say to overexpose, and if ISO is 400 you say to rate ISO to 200 and set your shutter speed to 250. I thought ISO for film cannot be changed, it is what it is so how do I rate the 400 film at 200? I understand overexposing by adding one stop of light so if you have 400 film you set the shutter speed from 400 to 250, but I don’t understand adding a stop of light by changing the ISO when the ISO is 400. Thank you! You are very helpful and I love watching your videos. I think once pandemic is over I am going to try a thrift shop heeheheh 😁
Exactly. You can shoot the film at box speed, of rate it differently (pushing or pulling, and other reasons to rate tge film differentlythan box speed, may be you meter is not calibrated properly, etc.), and you need to inform the lab if you are pulling or pushing. You set you ISO only once for the entire film .You cannot change the ISO from one shot to the other one on the same film to solve your shutter speed limitation of your film camera. With digital it is different you can choose a different ISO for each shot..Also, as you said, he changed the Aperture, then compensate with shutter speed and ISO..😂😂..Almost 50% ofthe duration of this video is advertisement for Square Space..There is a lot to say about Sunny F16..which can be very accurate in the RIGHT conditions..Someone who wants to learn about this rule, should learn about exposure..I really laugh at people here buying a Leica camera ($1000 or much more) and want to learn thru this type of videos, a couple of very good books by reputable photographers for $10 to $15 on ebay, and practice,, practice,, take notes of everything, camera and lens used,, ISO, aperture, shutter speed used for each shot, light (quality, direction, etc.), date and time of the day, you will learn way much more..it is a long learning process that never ends.. I came to these videos, just by curiosity of what these guys are talking about..Sorry, no intention to offend anyone..you can write pages and pages about these type of videos..but really not worth it. Exposure is a Science, and an Art..
Thank you for making this method clearly and helping me with ine of my loves of life...photography. I hope to shoot some amazing shots and be a continual learner as I just subscribed. Is there any reason why this video is about film photography instead of digital?
Love this video!!! What do you do if your camera doesn’t go past 1/1000 and you need to drop your Aperture but you can equal it? My Pentax k1000 only goes up to 1/1000 and if I want to drop the aperture to F8 it won’t be equal..
Great video, thank you. I have always used Sunny 16 with my OM1 as the light meter doesn’t work. I always wondered how I could vary the settings while still using Sunny 16. I feel like my brain panics when it sees numbers so this has really helped me understand how it is possible! Thanks again.
first example was actually good cause it gives the example of when it's too sunny and you can't go higher than 1k shutter speed because most film cameras don't go over 1k shutter speed...in these cases you'd need an ND filter, or just stop down your aperture :)
This is a very good tutorial but how important is this while using a full frame mirrorless camera? In other words, should I not trust too much the camera's wysiwyg system?
911 QUESTION******* (LOL). If I'm indoors, but getting a lot of natural lighting from the sun by being directly next to large window, would you still recommend F16? Or drop down to F11?
As for his first example for compensation assuming my camera does go only to 1/1000 would I need to change the ISO then? So with me having a let's say Portra 400 in my camera so my shutter speed at 1/500 and it's sunny so I should use f/16 but because of let's say depth of field I want f/8 would I then compensate by setting shutter speed to 1/1000 and IS0 200 ?? On this note, if I want a certain depth of field and a certain let say blur with the settings to get those resulting in overexposure could I just change ISO to like 50 to even it out? I'm guessing not every film is as flexible with over and under exposing on the ISO
Hi, I installed the Light Meter app on the iPhone, but there is no sign, arrow, or indication indicating the speed measurement with the lens aperture, how do I know and i put 400 iso click on the button measure. The E V 10
Sometimes the electronics within the cameras go bad due to age. It really depends on how the camera was taken cared of. I use an app light metering and also bought a light meter hot shoe attachment for my camera which is really convenient. When shooting your first roll of film, don't do what I did and use a low shutter speed out in the day... I learned my lesson
So I just purchased my first film camera, a mint condition Canon F1, the light meter works and so when I try to do the S16 it’s not really meshing with the meter. Is that because it’s in aperture mode?
A lot of the old guys didn’t use a meter. They had their own memorized sunny 16 for their own routine. You really need to calibrate sunny 16 for your own place of living. For me sunny 16 is actually sunny 11, since there is thousands of tall trees around me I also wouldn’t use a shutter speed of 500 for 400 speed film. I’d rather use 250 and darken my shadows in printing if I wanted
For over exposure shots, shouldn't it be choosing either reducing the ISO, or reducing the shutter speed? Adjusting both? doesn't that equate to the original ISO 400 and shutter 500, i.e. no change?
I found the sunny f/16 rule very crude and mostly made for more Southern climate zones. I found a re-named sunny f/11 much more correct at ISO 100 in the mid-Atlantic US zone. It's a rule which lives more from exemptions of the rule (cloudy conditions, shadows, high contrast etc) than actually following the rule. Using any kind of light meter is much better.
what i don't understand with the app is that when i give it more like f11 but the camera's light meter says it can be the Hoof or too low how do I fix this?
This has been very helpful, thank you. I have one question...I am using the Pentax Asahi where it asks you to identify the ISO. If I want to be safe and over expose a 400 ISO....would I scroll the wheel on the camera to say 400 or 200? Thanks!
great videos, when you said about wanting to change your f number from 16 to 8, on iso 400, why would he be wanting to change the f number, because the sun had gone in slightly and it wasn't as sunny or? I don't understand quite why he couldn't just change his f number and keep the same shutter speed? thank u (: Also, can you do a video about shooting indoors using this because in the other video you said it was different indoors Thanks so much, i'm still finding it slightly complicated but i'm learning :P
Can you tell me if this is correct? So say I am shooting 200 ISO film with a 250 shutter speed on a sunny day(f16). If I see a moving car and I want a picture without trails, I would change my shutter to say 1000 and then correct my aperture by changing it to f8?
i have minolta SR1 and my shutter speed maxes out at 500 so what should i do if I want to shoot at a lower aperture? Just over expose and be happy or get a different speed of film?
How to compensate if shutter speed max 1000 using iso 500 or 800 using this sunny 16 rule? For example, from f16 down to 2 or 3 stop but the shutter speed can't go higher than 1/1000 what should do?
Hello I am just seeing this video lol I hope you will reply, but i am new to film and i understand all that you are saying; however, what if i wanted my aperture to be f/2.8 but my camera's shutter speed stops at 1000? what would I do then if im shooting with a 200 film? thank you
I feel like i'm in algebra all over again. lol I was so relieved when iphone light meters started being pretty much accurate. Shooting medium format has been easier the last few years since it's one less piece of equipment to keep in my pocket.
@@randomscience4k The one I used last time was called pocket light meter, it's simple and could be better. There are a bunch of free ones so just try some out and see what works for you.
Hi can i ask if the concept of sunny 16 is the same with my camera that only have 1/175 shutter speed? How can i use f16 with only 1/175 speed if it need around 1/500 ?
Great video. I am shooting Ilford HP5 film pushed 2 stops to ISO 1600. My Rolleiflex and Rollei 35S only go to 1/500th . The best I can achieve with sunny 16 is to overexpose 2 stops to f16 1/500. Is that correct ? Thanks
Great video and very helpful! I have a question, when I go to over-expose my film for safety, will the aperture follow along as well? So imagine it's a fully sunny day (f16) and I have a 400 ISO film and I over-expose setting my shutter speed to 1/250 instead of 1/500, will then the aperture remain f16 or would change to f22? Sorry it might be a silly question, but I am just starting out :) Thanks in advance!
Hi! I'm currently using a 400 iso film so according to the Sunny 16 rule, I'd shoot with 1/500, f16 and iso 400 on a bright sunny day. I was wondering what to do if I want to shoot decrease my aperture 2 stops (say f8) as the maximum shutter speed on my camera is 1/500?
If the camera accepts filters, you could throw on a polariser, they usually suck out one to two stops of light. Any more than that and you'd need to use a neutral density filter.
Your first video about sunny 16 really helped me alot when i first started shooting film 2 months ago. and this video has helped even more. Great stuff pal. Keep it up. Stay safe.
Hell yea man
Glad it’s helping!
@@KingJvpes Sure is.
Do you still shoot film?
I watched both Sunny Sixteen videos. Excellent. After all these years, I finally understand, thanks to your clear and simple instruction. Nice presentation.
A great way practice is to set the ISO on your digital camera to your preferred film's ISO, say Porta 400, then set your shutter speed at 500, then practice the sunny 16 rules. If you have a Fuji it will feel more film like but any decent digital camera works. Your electronic viewfinder will provide instant feedback...include the histogram or just eyeball the exposure. Once you feel you have mastered that exercise, load up a roll of film, and have at it!
This was really helpful! I would love if you could do another video on why you would want to use certain ISO, shutter speeds, and aperture for artist effects?
Here is a very important aspect not covered in this video though. For those looking to be more creative with their photography - you need an ND Filter. So for example instead of compensating apertures and shutter - as KingJ illustrates in the video - if you want to use a particular aperture AND shutter speed combination, you are now using an ND filter and compensating the stops in that accordingly!
He didn't cover it because if you're using the Sunny 16 rule, you're probably not wanting to shoot at f/1.4 lol (not to say it isn't possible someone would want to, just not probable). Most film photographers back in the day weren't obsessed with super wide apertures like we are today.
Thanks for the video! I never thought I could "meter with my eyes", but I found that after shooting many rolls through my OM-1, it can become second nature, with many different types of film.
I've been doing digital photography for about 8 years, now a few days ago I ordered an analog film camera to try something new. And before it‘s even arrived I‘ve already learned so much more about photography. Nobody teaches you something like this when you start with digital photography, no book nor video.
as soon as the lockdown finishes in my area I’m gonna go out and practice it all!! Thanks 💔
I have been using sunny 16 rule since I bought my analog camera 📸 because the light meter doesn't work. The result has been amazing. The best way to understand and learn how photography works. Film photography helps me to improve my composition.
Thanks a lot for a wonderful video. You have explained these important concepts succinctly and with precision.
Lol I took a screenshot of the video and immediately after he goes “screenshot this video and save it on your phone”
One of the best videos I have seen in RUclips related to photography basics! Great presentation skills!!
Great to see new generation teaches the world about old cameras, love it 😍
I would be interested in a video explaining sunny 16 with more specific lighting situations (i know to use the rule but some situations make my head ache ^^ like shooting a portrait on a bright day but the subject is shaded under the branches of a tree.. how to have his head well exposed without everything else burned.
I guess a lot comes with experience when shooting film. But to maintain costs and frustration as low as possible I‘d suggest using a light meter.
That's not really what the Sunny 16 Rule is for. It's for when your subject is in full, bright sunlight.
A note worth mentioning is that stops of light in terms of shutter speed moves in geometrical scale as it is simply measuring time, it just doubles or halves, so the math is pretty simple if you need to count stops in one direction or another. Now, the Aperture moves in logarithmic scale so the numbers are quite less intuitive... bottom line is, just memorize the F-stop scale.
This chart reminds me of a sneaky trick my cinematography tutor mentioned a student did with Ansel Adams' "Exposure Zones" and F/T-stops. Apparently this guy drew both lines on the insides of his forearms, and would make adjustments by shifting one arm up against the other.
This is probably one of the most helpful videos for beginners here on youtube, thank you so much!
This really helped out. Just inherited My late uncle's Canon AT-1 I have admired for years.Unsure on Matching the Aperture and Shutter speed. just wanted to say Thank You Man. Keep it up.
Wow!! Both your videos on Sunny 16 have helped me tremendously! Thank you so much! Your other videos are awesome as well! You’re an awesome teacher!😊
For quick feedback when learning manual photography, use the M mode and Sunny 16 on your DSLR. Your settings will be saved for viewing in your photo editor. It's faster and cheaper than burning several rolls of film and waiting on the mail.
This was super helpful! I got a Nikon FM10 for Christmas so I’m tryna educate myself before I go out there lol.
New subscriber here!
You just described the story of my life....always compensating for something. #CanonGang!!!
Funny, I did a nice exhaustive sunny 16 chart that involves some math recently. Your paper stops of light thingies reminded me of that. If anyone's interested here, I can send you the thing ; pretty sure it's totally printable so you can put it at the back of your camera to remind you or so
yea send me the link please
@@aslipperysnake docs.google.com/document/d/1OQSMEaYPXESim3zhegRqP_kWJpF5QnNMiWE-uuYPIUI/edit?usp=sharing
Here you go, sorry for the late answer. You can download it in PDF and then print it :)
@@redacted2871 nice! thanks!
Maan yous a real one for all this gold🙏🏻
As a beginner who doesn’t really have the budget for a light meter who also wants to learn all manual this is so helpful!
THANK YOU FOR THIS 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻 this is the kinda content I’m lookin for
Best explanation EVER for Sunny 16!
The Sunny 16 rule doesn’t always work. It really depends on where you are. If you’re in a consistently sunny place, it’ll work a lot of the time. However, if you’re in London or Paris (or any other city that isn’t well lit/sunny most of the time), then this isn’t a good rule. It’s also not a good rule if you’re in a dark room, with artificial light. Sunny 16 is for STREET photography. If you’re in a dark room, let’s say at a family event, it’s not street photography. The settings will need to be different for that. I’m currently sitting in my living room, at night, with my light on, and applying this rule just causes the light meter to say that the image will be very underexposed. Keep this in mind when using this rule…
The Sunny 16 Rule was meant to be used on a bright, sunny day, when your subject is in FULL SUN. That's the original intent of this technique. Other versions like the Sunny 11 and Sunny 8 rule are for less bright days use the Sunny 16 rule as a baseline.
I am just starting with SLRs and this was incredibly helpful! Thank you so much. Cheers.
Hey! Just wanted to say thank you, your explanations where super useful and clear to me!
Thank you, this really helps me in understanding and using the Sunny 6 rule.
Epic and thanks, this has helped me massively as Ive shot a few films and messed it up! cheers
Great vid ese! Super precise and informative. Keep it up!
yo ur vid is like super easy to understand
thank u so much bro
here is a like hehe
Thanks for such clear explanation. It is really helpful :)
Thanks ! It was super helpful !
Very helpful video. You’re great at explaining this. Thanks for the tips 🙏🤩
this was SO informative, thank you.
Amazing video man, thank you so much!
I have been learning so much from your Channel. You’re doing amazing work. !
Great vid! ❤
My understanding is if you lower your ASA by one stop, then lower your Shutter Speed by one stop, you will remain at the same Exposure Value. If you want to overexpose by one stop, you would adjust one or the other, not both.
I don't think that's correct. ASA setting is mainly for the light meter in the camera to read correctly if you have one. The only 2 things dictating how much light is coming in is shutter speed and aperture, therefore you need to lower the shutter speed to let in more light and therefore overexpose.
great thanks for this video lots of information . i did screen shot this one just like the last one . its handy to have on your phone for reference .
I finally understand this, thanks!
Niiiice video🤩👍! Thanks a lot for this useful information!
Cheers for these videos : I have bought a Leica M1 for fun, no lightmeter nor rangefinder : I'll have to train for mastering for both sunny16 AND zone focusing :D
And your videos have helped me a lot to understand how to get over the inherent limitations of that Leica model :-)
I'm loving your videos and finding them very helpful as a beginner. But also bruh can you change the battery in your smoke detector? lol
This is great can you talk about cameras where the shutter speed is 500 max for the older cameras. Thank you! I have some SLRs that are up to 1000 but 500 is a struggle to master. It would be beneficial!
Me too!
Just bought a Petri 7S film camera and I’ve also purchased Fuji Superia 400 film , I can’t wait to go out and practice shooting , would you be able to give me any pointers with this camera in particular 😂🙈 I know it’s a long shot but are there any videos you have or recommend for this type of camera 🥰✨ any pointers would be appreciated, also shooting landscape in Scotland and advice for this aswell would be greatly appreciated 😂👏🏻💖
I'm sure some people are going from video to, trying to figure out how this applies to pushing/pulling ISO. Granted, this is from someone actually spending their first day ever learning about film photography, but have had experience in digital.
Everything works in stops, in which that halving your shutter speed is one stop, doubling it is also one stop. and the more you have and double, the more stops. Aperture kinda has their own system it seems so let's ignore that and assume whatever options there are for aperture is a stop higher or lower.
ISO works like shutter speed. You halve it, it's over-exposed 1 stop. Halve it again, it's over-exposed 2 stops. Double it, back to 1, etc. And so in this case, we have a triangle where you can choose to keep one and change the other depending on the use case. Let's set an example.
People online are saying to lower Kodak Portra 400 to 200 speed, which is over-exposed by one stop. For this example, without going into changing DoF for portraits, we'll say we're doing landscapes on a sunny day. So in usual, we would be shooting ISO 400 at 1/500 with f/22. But since we lowered our ISO to 200, we actually need to underexpose by one stop on the shutter speed. Now, we're shooting ISO 200 at 1/1,000 with f/22.
So tl;dr, if I'm right, everything works in stops. In order to push or pull your film's speed, you have to choose the opposite of the exposure for your ISO. So if you pull your film, you have to push your shutter speed or aperture. And vice versa.
AGAIN, I LITERALLY AM READING ALL THIS IN ONE DAY WITH NO FIELD EXPERIENCE IN FILM PHOTOGRAPHY.
Many thanks for the video!
I just need you to please clarify the following...I’m out on a sunny day, camera set to f/16 + 1/500 (400ISO) if weather conditions change and I change my F-stop to f/11 does that mean that I have to change also my shutter speed from 500 to 1000? And I’m shooting black and white, would the “overexposing for safety” would work for me?
I’ve liked and subscribed
Many Thanks :)
No, if weather conditions change to make it less sunny, you would keep the shutter speed and change the F-stop to f/11. To my understanding, the examples he gives are just different settings to get the same effect. If the shutter speed is 1000 at f/11 with 400ISO, it’s the same as f/16 + 1/500(400ISO). Although I don’t really get the point of it if it gets you the same results, so maybe I’m wrong, but that’s what it seemed like he was saying.
@@jaben5489 I'm a total beginner at this but I think the point of why you would change certain aspects like shutter speed or aperature and deviate from the sunny16 rule is dependent on what you are shooting. For example, to capture a moving subject you'd want a quick shutter speed which the standard sunny16 aperture rule of f16 and 1/500wouldn't accomodate for as this may be too slow of ashutter speed. SO you'd need to alter the speed to capture the image to avoid motion blur, but to ensure the photo is properly exposed still, you'd also need to adjust the f stop. - I think..
Similarly, if you're weather conditions mean you need an f/8 f stop but you want a larger depth of field, you'll need to set it at a higher f stop like f11 or f16 but again, to ensure correct exposure, need to adjust the speed to achieve this.
SOmebody feel free to tell me if I'm totally wrong - I'm here learning like everybody else!
@@xLightningbolt yeah, after looking at some more videos it seems like that’s what it is.
ruclips.net/video/uyXiWF3mI2s/видео.html
this video explains it really well
Dumb question but is 500 shutter speed the same as 5 seconds?
@@Angelkaaya I think it’s 500th of a second
Thanks for this video! Just starting out with film photography and your channel is helping me massively. I've got one quick question, and if anyone else reads this and knows the answer then please do help me out:) When you talk about overexposing for safety and rating 400iso film as 200iso, does this mean I should also set the iso dial to 200, or does it just refer to changing the shutter speed? Thank you! x
I’m pretty sure he means changing the ISO (so the dial) not the shutter speed
Very good question! Is here anyone else who knows the answer?
Helpful tips and tricks
Dude, you're awesome
question: If I do as suggested and rate my 400 film as 200 and carry on taking pictures, when I take the film to be developed do they need to know that's what I did? Or is it better not to include that when taking the film in?
9:48 Didn't get it, so I rate my film one ISO stop over. Do I change the setting of the ISO at the camera, or just the shutter? Nobody really talks directly about changing the ISO :/
@@PRXSENTFXTURE Yeah man i got it after some thinking. Like the thing i needed to understand is, that the camera will read the value you set the ISO to (so yes, change the ISO-setting). It will then readjust the lightmeter to a less sensitive/"darker" film. So to get the lightmeter/needle/whatever to the sweetspot again, where the cam thinks the film is exposed normally, you have to adjust either the shutter or aperture. But in doing so, in the end your film gets more light than it should get, and thats what we want to overexpose.
Sorry for the spelling.
Thank you for this!
Love the dog, Aussie blue heeler by the looks. My concerns are that there are a lot of film cameras that have a shutter speed of 500, so your example of opening up to a f-stop of 8 cannot possibly work by going to a shutter speed that you do not have. So in my mind, the film speed plays a big part as well.
I just picked up an olympus m-1 with a sus light meter so ye im about to go out tomorrow with this info. Film is expensive lmao
Question...You say to overexpose, and if ISO is 400 you say to rate ISO to 200 and set your shutter speed to 250. I thought ISO for film cannot be changed, it is what it is so how do I rate the 400 film at 200? I understand overexposing by adding one stop of light so if you have 400 film you set the shutter speed from 400 to 250, but I don’t understand adding a stop of light by changing the ISO when the ISO is 400. Thank you! You are very helpful and I love watching your videos. I think once pandemic is over I am going to try a thrift shop heeheheh 😁
Exactly. You can shoot the film at box speed, of rate it differently (pushing or pulling, and other reasons to rate tge film differentlythan box speed, may be you meter is not calibrated properly, etc.), and you need to inform the lab if you are pulling or pushing. You set you ISO only once for the entire film .You cannot change the ISO from one shot to the other one on the same film to solve your shutter speed limitation of your film camera. With digital it is different you can choose a different ISO for each shot..Also, as you said, he changed the Aperture, then compensate with shutter speed and ISO..😂😂..Almost 50% ofthe duration of this video is advertisement for Square Space..There is a lot to say about Sunny F16..which can be very accurate in the RIGHT conditions..Someone who wants to learn about this rule, should learn about exposure..I really laugh at people here buying a Leica camera ($1000 or much more) and want to learn thru this type of videos, a couple of very good books by reputable photographers for $10 to $15 on ebay, and practice,, practice,, take notes of everything, camera and lens used,, ISO, aperture, shutter speed used for each shot, light (quality, direction, etc.), date and time of the day, you will learn way much more..it is a long learning process that never ends..
I came to these videos, just by curiosity of what these guys are talking about..Sorry, no intention to offend anyone..you can write pages and pages about these type of videos..but really not worth it. Exposure is a Science, and an Art..
Thank you for making this method clearly and helping me with ine of my loves of life...photography. I hope to shoot some amazing shots and be a continual learner as I just subscribed. Is there any reason why this video is about film photography instead of digital?
Love this video!!! What do you do if your camera doesn’t go past 1/1000 and you need to drop your Aperture but you can equal it? My Pentax k1000 only goes up to 1/1000 and if I want to drop the aperture to F8 it won’t be equal..
Excellent !
Out of curiosity, was your book a limited edition run, the one about sidewalks? If yes, will you ever re-print ?
What if I want to shoot f2 or f4 on a sunny day 400iso but my camera has the maximum of 1/1000 ?
Great video, thank you. I have always used Sunny 16 with my OM1 as the light meter doesn’t work. I always wondered how I could vary the settings while still using Sunny 16. I feel like my brain panics when it sees numbers so this has really helped me understand how it is possible! Thanks again.
first example was actually good cause it gives the example of when it's too sunny and you can't go higher than 1k shutter speed because most film cameras don't go over 1k shutter speed...in these cases you'd need an ND filter, or just stop down your aperture :)
Nice thank you po! Nakatulong po to sakin.
Thanks. Literally bought a minolta two days ago so this is very helpful!!
This is a very good tutorial but how important is this while using a full frame mirrorless camera? In other words, should I not trust too much the camera's wysiwyg system?
Early! For the first time in a while
911 QUESTION******* (LOL). If I'm indoors, but getting a lot of natural lighting from the sun by being directly next to large window, would you still recommend F16? Or drop down to F11?
What is you're trying to shoot when its dusk/sunset. how would sunny 16 work then?
What about old cameras where shutter speeds only range to 200, are these cameras still ok to use
Do you recommend over exposing for safety only if you’re shooting on color film or does this apply to shooting on black & white film as well?
I have a Pentax program plus. Not sure how to use the exposure compensation buttons. Any advice?
As for his first example for compensation assuming my camera does go only to 1/1000 would I need to change the ISO then?
So with me having a let's say Portra 400 in my camera so my shutter speed at 1/500 and it's sunny so I should use f/16 but because of let's say depth of field I want f/8 would I then compensate by setting shutter speed to 1/1000 and IS0 200 ??
On this note, if I want a certain depth of field and a certain let say blur with the settings to get those resulting in overexposure could I just change ISO to like 50 to even it out? I'm guessing not every film is as flexible with over and under exposing on the ISO
Hi, I installed the Light Meter app on the iPhone, but there is no sign, arrow, or indication indicating the speed measurement with the lens aperture, how do I know and i put 400 iso click on the button measure. The E V 10
I am going to shoot my first roll and I want to apply this technique, but the light meter in my camera says something else in total what should I do?
Sometimes the electronics within the cameras go bad due to age. It really depends on how the camera was taken cared of. I use an app light metering and also bought a light meter hot shoe attachment for my camera which is really convenient. When shooting your first roll of film, don't do what I did and use a low shutter speed out in the day... I learned my lesson
So I just purchased my first film camera, a mint condition Canon F1, the light meter works and so when I try to do the S16 it’s not really meshing with the meter. Is that because it’s in aperture mode?
A lot of the old guys didn’t use a meter. They had their own memorized sunny 16 for their own routine.
You really need to calibrate sunny 16 for your own place of living. For me sunny 16 is actually sunny 11, since there is thousands of tall trees around me
I also wouldn’t use a shutter speed of 500 for 400 speed film. I’d rather use 250 and darken my shadows in printing if I wanted
For over exposure shots, shouldn't it be choosing either reducing the ISO, or reducing the shutter speed? Adjusting both? doesn't that equate to the original ISO 400 and shutter 500, i.e. no change?
I found the sunny f/16 rule very crude and mostly made for more Southern climate zones. I found a re-named sunny f/11 much more correct at ISO 100 in the mid-Atlantic US zone. It's a rule which lives more from exemptions of the rule (cloudy conditions, shadows, high contrast etc) than actually following the rule. Using any kind of light meter is much better.
what i don't understand with the app is that when i give it more like f11 but the camera's light meter says it can be the Hoof or too low how do I fix this?
This has been very helpful, thank you. I have one question...I am using the Pentax Asahi where it asks you to identify the ISO. If I want to be safe and over expose a 400 ISO....would I scroll the wheel on the camera to say 400 or 200? Thanks!
if you want to overexpose you have to set it to 200 for 1 stop or 100 for 2 stops and so on. It needs more time to expose at 200 iso so you overexpose
great videos, when you said about wanting to change your f number from 16 to 8, on iso 400, why would he be wanting to change the f number, because the sun had gone in slightly and it wasn't as sunny or? I don't understand quite why he couldn't just change his f number and keep the same shutter speed? thank u (:
Also, can you do a video about shooting indoors using this because in the other video you said it was different indoors
Thanks so much, i'm still finding it slightly complicated but i'm learning :P
Can you tell me if this is correct? So say I am shooting 200 ISO film with a 250 shutter speed on a sunny day(f16). If I see a moving car and I want a picture without trails, I would change my shutter to say 1000 and then correct my aperture by changing it to f8?
i have minolta SR1 and my shutter speed maxes out at 500 so what should i do if I want to shoot at a lower aperture? Just over expose and be happy or get a different speed of film?
How to compensate if shutter speed max 1000 using iso 500 or 800 using this sunny 16 rule? For example, from f16 down to 2 or 3 stop but the shutter speed can't go higher than 1/1000 what should do?
Dude I always enjoy your tutorials! You explain things in a sensible manner!
Does sunny 16 only applies to film cameras? Or can this also applies to digital? Thanks!
Hello I am just seeing this video lol I hope you will reply, but i am new to film and i understand all that you are saying; however, what if i wanted my aperture to be f/2.8 but my camera's shutter speed stops at 1000? what would I do then if im shooting with a 200 film? thank you
When overexposing, should we change the iso AND the shutter speed? Or just one of those?
I feel like i'm in algebra all over again. lol I was so relieved when iphone light meters started being pretty much accurate. Shooting medium format has been easier the last few years since it's one less piece of equipment to keep in my pocket.
Which light meter app are you using?
@@randomscience4k The one I used last time was called pocket light meter, it's simple and could be better. There are a bunch of free ones so just try some out and see what works for you.
@@solarsatori LUX on iPhone is doing a really good job, no BS, just the right stuff needed... (and it's free)
Hi can i ask if the concept of sunny 16 is the same with my camera that only have 1/175 shutter speed? How can i use f16 with only 1/175 speed if it need around 1/500 ?
Great video. I am shooting Ilford HP5 film pushed 2 stops to ISO 1600. My Rolleiflex and Rollei 35S only go to 1/500th . The best I can achieve with sunny 16 is to overexpose 2 stops to f16 1/500. Is that correct ? Thanks
Great video and very helpful! I have a question, when I go to over-expose my film for safety, will the aperture follow along as well? So imagine it's a fully sunny day (f16) and I have a 400 ISO film and I over-expose setting my shutter speed to 1/250 instead of 1/500, will then the aperture remain f16 or would change to f22? Sorry it might be a silly question, but I am just starting out :)
Thanks in advance!
By setting your shutter speed to 1/250 (instead of 1/500) you have created the overexposure. Don’t change from f16. Stay at f16.
Hi! I'm currently using a 400 iso film so according to the Sunny 16 rule, I'd shoot with 1/500, f16 and iso 400 on a bright sunny day. I was wondering what to do if I want to shoot decrease my aperture 2 stops (say f8) as the maximum shutter speed on my camera is 1/500?
If the camera accepts filters, you could throw on a polariser, they usually suck out one to two stops of light. Any more than that and you'd need to use a neutral density filter.
Thanks!
Why would you want to shoot at F8 instead of F16 on a sunny day? Would F16 at 250 look different than F8 at 2000? Whats the reasoning for switching?
Does this work with medium format as well? Or is there any difference?