I’ll say it again I’ve definitely made these mistakes. I had a brief Gear Acquisition Syndrome phase and stopped. Also had mistake #5 and 6. Like I’ve said before your Sunny 16 vid was great and so helpful! Been subbed to you since I think your HP5 + Canon A1 vid or the top reasons to buy an A1. I had inherited mine and was looking at how to use that.
Can you please try vintage Kodak cameras. I have a Kodak Pony ii that was passed down to me and I don’t know if I should use it as a beginner. Please consider and let me know
Hi, I'm brand new to photography. Can you explain how over exposing and under exposing affects your pictures and why you would want to do that? Also, is there a difference if you over expose or under expose when you take the picture compared to asking the lab to push or pull at processing?
One of the best tips I was given as a beginner film photographer was to make sure the film was properly loaded in the camera. That sounds silly, but I've had many film photographers say they shot a roll of film and it came back from the lab completely blank. When loading film, make sure the rewind knob rotates as you advance the film. That way you know the leader caught on the take-up spool. It's easy for the film to miss catching on the sprockets and not actually pull out of the canister on to the take-up reel. Oh yeah....#CanonGang!
Can a 35 mm camera that manually advances the film you always want to make sure the rewind knob is rotating on it's own. Also a good idea to find the instruction manual care specific camera online just to familiarize yourself with the camera
Even if you been shooting film for a long time like myself, watching these kinds of videos makes you go "oh silly me, how the heck did I forget or missed that"! A mistake I used to make and especially when I started was, taking more than one frame of the same subject and wasting film in that process. I remember buying my first roll of Kodachrome somewhere in 98 and I was excited to shoot it like the way pro's would. Yep, another mistake I made as well. Took pictures of the same subject more than once, and not familiarize myself of the camera setting. I can imagine the person developing that film. Yes, I know this video is about 7mo old but it's relevant everyday for everyone. I like to go back and re learn basics, because sometimes we tend to drift away and think we know it all. Thank you so much for this precious content and yes, I did subscribe. Get out there and have fun, experiment, and learn something new every day, wether you are new or have been around the block a few times.
I find it entertaining to hear of current younger people "just getting into film". I also like one of your comments about not spending a lot of money on gear. I bought my Minolta x-700 in the late 1980s because I wanted better results than you could typically get at the time with the "kodak instamatics" of the day. I spent a huge chunk of 1980's change ($500ish) on that Minolta because it had the P mode as well as having the Aperture priority mode. It spent most of its life just taking family snapshots and vacation photos. Given that you are spending money every time you click the button, it was difficult to justify experimentation at the time for photography's sake. Once I got my first DIGITAL camera, I could go nuts in full manual modes to really learn the ins and outs of exposure, DOF, etc. Now I may actually go back to the X-700 and see what I can really make that thing do now.
I found a Minolta AF-C for cheap, it's a simple point-and-shoot, I use Fuji C200 film which is the cheapest color film I can buy. I like that old photo album aesthetic.
your advice regarding wasting money on unnecessary equipment is spot on. been doing film for almost 50 years and i still shoot a lot of 35mm on an old pentax k 1000. these can be picked up for a song,and are generally better than the person using them.but if you wanna spend money,do your homework on lenses.then you can cough up some serious cash!
Just joined the MinoltaGang with an X-700. I wanted to move up from my Pentax K-1000 and have something that could shoot Ap Priority if need be. Just seemed like time and time again I saw this X-700 pop up in peoples videos. Loving it so far, beautiful camera and a great feel.
Wow, I never thought drugstores in America were this bad. In germany you pay 2.75€ for the development AND 36 9x13 printed pictures with index and you get the negatives back. damn good value for money
@@flocheka Bei DM ich komme nicht leicht zu Rossman wie zu DM. Allerdings mag ich was CEWE mit den Bildern macht garnicht. Trotzdem gleich prints zu haben ist echt cool.
Dan Nolle Was das angeht haben wir‘s hier echt gut, gerade auch dass man mit Gold 200 3er Packung so nen billigen (und trotzdem guten) Film in quasi jedem DM bekommt ist echt nicht selbstverständlich. In anderen Ländern fangen die Filme echt erst bei 10€ pro Stück an, da gibt‘s keine günstige Alternative wenn man nur mal ein paar Schnappschüsse machen will... Nur wg. Corona ists ja gerade ein bisschen schwierig aber das wird schon wieder:)
@@flocheka Ist egal. Die schicken alle an CEWE. Komplett egal wo dus abgibst rossmann, dm media markt etc ob euch die abzüge gefallen oder nicht, ist doch egal. die kosten 1cent(!!!) pro stück. Ihr habt ja negative, könnt jederzeit selbst nen besseren Job beim scannen machen. entwicklung für 2,75 und nen vorschau abzug ist absolut geschenkt
Ok interessant hab bei dm fürn B&W film 40€ gezahlt für entwickeln und abzüge. Müller ist bei ca 10€ mit abzügen. Halt hier in Österreich. Mir gehts eigentlich um das entwickeln von farbfilmen. Vielen Dank für die schnellen infos (Y)
My biggest mistake when I started shooting film photography back in the early 2000s (when I was also learning digital photography at the same time) was definitely underexposing. My digital camera was an Olympus e-500 which had super grainy images, so I inadvertently became obsessed with shooing wide open at low ISO to compensate, and sadly brought those habits over to my film gear as well. No wonder nearly all my photos became hot garbage. These days I'm older and wiser, and I'm studying up, stopping down, and metering properly for both digital and film. The result? Less hot garbage, and more keepers! Go figure!
i just shot a couple of rolls after 1 year of not shooting. i just made the same mistake and doubting to get it developt. there's a big chance of blanco rolls and 1 for sure
1. Forgetting to put the film in. 2. Forgetting to take the lens cap off. 3. Forgetting to turn the camera on. 4. Forgetting to change the ASA from the previous setting. 4. Not getting the film attached correctly to the winder. 5. Check the battery.
Genuinely curious to know cause I heard this a couple of times now - how do people forget to take the lens cap off? I’m very new to film photography and just got a very old Pentax Spotmatic SP. If I had my lens cap on I would just see blackness from my viewfinder. Don’t other film cameras work this way?
You are by far the best film photography teacher on RUclips. I got into film last year and have been watching as many videos as possible. I just found yours and immediately subscribed and have been going through and watching all your content! Thank you for making valuable and easy to understand videos for all the beginners out there.
I have been shouting film for sixty years, and I appreciate these tutorials immensly. In the digital world, the values you get from a digital camera does not necessarily translate to analog film. So just looking at film and how film works makes a ton of difference. Thank you :-)
Just came across your video! I recently bought a X-370, taking a break from digital, all of your advice is spot on. Excited to see the developed product. ☺️
After starting shooting film in march and learning sunny 16 it changed my film photography for the better. I don't even use batteries in some of my fully manual cameras anymore because i watched your videos on sunny 16. Another great video jonathan.
Sunny 16 is a blessing for people who shoot a lot of random things and do a variety of topics in their photography. I meant to comment in disagreement about the "using only wide open lenses" point, but I guess it stands for beginner photographers. I've been shooting portraits with blurry backgrounds for years now, so I usually have the aperture taped over on my lenses, but that's not what most beginners will want to do though :D
The Point with drug store development is interesting. Here in Germany it's totally different... Yea it's send to a big lab but you not only get your negatives back in 4 picture slices but you can also get scans on a CD and it's way cheaper than going to a small lab (7 Euro for prints and scans instead of 15 Euros just for scans).
Hi, just came acroos your comment. I am also looking into where to have my photos developed and looking between Dm or Rossmann. Would love to hear more from you! 😊
@@jorieannnismal6854 both are fine. I personally go for DM but be aware that the quality isnt the same as with a professinal scan you see in all these RUclips videos. If you want the same quality, i would suggest going to a professional Lab and only get the scans (you can print your favorite pictures later at DM - they charge so much for prints at professional labs...).
I was searching for a X-700, but I wasn’t thinking to use the P mode, so I got X-500 for cheaper. I don’t know what are the prices now, but I’ve got it with a 50/1.7 lens and I am so satisfied by this combination! I might buy a 50/1.4 in the future or wider 28 or 35 mm lens, but this kit of Minolta x-500 with 50/1.7 works amazing! Keep up with the good work and photography! :)
Hello a year later or so. I’m intriguied by what decision you made on this since im at similar crossroads. Though my camera is a tad older, sr7. Now im shooting with the 55/2 rokkor and im torn between getting a faster ~50 lense or a wider 24/28. Woul’d love hearing what and why on your decision. Also thoughts you had after. Regards, Edvard
This is soooo helpful, I’m not a beginner anymore, but I would have loved having this kind of advice when I was starting. Thank you for helping the community!!
Great video. I think most beginners underexpose their c-41 color film and then get shocked when they don’t have good results. I love shooting Portra +2 stops now for some wiggle room to make sure I don’t underexpose.
I legit subbed halfway into this video and this is my first one of yours. You explain things so well and you give off such a great vibe. Can’t wait to meet more film photographers like you!
When I was younger I traveled to Europe as part of a school program. I had my beloved Nikon F with photomic finder. When I reached halfway of the trip my photomic batteries died and I had no light metering capability. Sunny 16 helped me as well as learning to “read” light. When you use a meter don’t do it without thought, after a while it helps you to learn how to ‘read’ light without it. The results for me were that I kept shooting through the rest of the trip without a meter but my photos were great.
I have the Yashica Electro 35, its the one in "Amazing Spiderman" I love that movie. Never shot film before, and I hardly know anything about cameras in general but my grandpa is a great photographer and he continues to teach me about it whenever we see each other. Going to the North Carolina mountains possibly for my birthday on the 29th of April. So I will definitely shoot some photographs there, cant wait to see what they look like!
@hackbodies oh boy, that was a while ago. I think he has all the pictures from that particular trip. I completely forgot about the mountains until now because the other trips I went on since then have been much more memorable, but I will say that the walk was long and the waterfalls were beautiful and looked like silk in long exposure shots. I think I shot mostly digital on that trip. Thanks for asking.
I love your channel Jonathan!!! Thanks for taking the time to educate and entertain us, especially during this time. Looking forward to learning a lot about photography through your videos. Stay blessed brother, major love all the way from The Bronx, NY ❤🙏🏽
So I shot a roll of Fuji Superia Colour 400 in my Minolta XG-M today. La La La Love it! Love the feel etc etc etc. (I have been digital for years but relied too heavily on the LCD screen). I was inside a semi well lit room with front light on the subject. 50mm f1.7 lens in manual mode. When I had the exposure compensation meter set on zero at f8 due to having multiple people in the shot, which I would normally do in a digital camera to achieve wide focus sharpness, the camera told me to set the shutter speed at 1/8 or 1/4 second. Obviously no good hand held (normally needs 1/60th maybe 1/30th). So I opened up the aperture to f2.8 or f1.7 to get 1/30th to 1/60th sec hand held to prevent camera shake. So now I'm limited inside to doing portraits of individuals at f1.7 to f2.8 at best hand held??? (normally on a digital camera like the Canon 7D I would simply increase ISO to compensate). So what I did to give me increased shutter speed is to set the exposure compensation dial down to -1 to -2 stops... am I going to end up with grainy shots on the fuji 400... what am I missing? please don't say a flash unit... not possible when everyone else is using mobile phones and we are in a public church Confession of Faith service... help! yet to develop...
Appreciate your Channel. But this being four years old, if you did an update, I'd include bracketing your shots. We were taught way back to take 3 shots,(1 a half or full stop under, 1 spot on, & 1 over) in order to get one frame that's balanced. Taking notes of surrounding conditions helps the learning curve. Sunny 16? I use a Canon Eos Elan iie that I bought in the 90's taking my 1st/only class,& just got a Canon 1N, still in the box, haven't had time to ck. it, hope it works(too late to return on Ebay.) I use the in camera meters?
Joined minolta gang with srt101, i love it but learning i have destroyed so many films :( as the films got expensive i started buying expired but being a beginner and using expired film is really hard. I hope you can make a video about expired film photography. Thank you for this video✨
Well, I wouldn't say letting your negatives developed at a drugstore is always wrong... I am not a beginner anymore, but I still do. The Dutch store HEMA takes 135 and 120 both C41 and E6. It costs just €3 respectively €3,50 and when you have it back within a few days. Development takes place at the lab of Fujifilm.
I develop also in Hema, I love the way it looks. Also they always give you the negatives, which is absurd if they dont, its like not giving you the RAW of digital pictures if you give them to someone else to edit them.
Love your vibes. Thank you for the excitement. I am holding my dads very old Minolta Dynax 500si and I am so invigorated to move through the world with film. Your channel will be a must to do this proper!
In germany the drugstores actually are the cheapest option and even give you the negatives back, so they are usually my go to option, as the actual quality of the developing process does not really change much. You have to get prints or scans tho, so I usually just get some prints for my photo box and to see what is on any given film. Tho I will probably start developing myself pretty soon just to safe some money and get faster results.
The "Sunny 16 Rule" is a way to determine a fairly correct exposure if you are without a lightmeter. As in, "my camera doesn't have a light meter", or " darn my battery just died and my light meter is inoperable". It has nothing to do with whether you are using film or digital. It just came about during the film era, when, eh, that was all there was. I hardly ever used it in the field, as film camera batteries lasted for years, not hours. I did use it to as a teaching tool to demonstrate the relationship between f/stop and shutter speed in getting the same exposure with different settings. Film photography is all about the glass and , as you stated, learning about film types. The camera is just a box that holds the film flat, together with some bells and whistles.
I disagree with the first point. Here in Canada (in Calgary anyway), there are only a handful of places that develop film and the most affordable and the most convenient place to go to is from a certain drugstore chain that has a photo lab in-house. They don’t ship it to somewhere else. They develop the film, give back the negatives and provide digital scans.
Coming from a Sony A6000 (100% best budget DSLR on earth) to an 80s Olympus OM-G and I'm very excited. I typically shoot manual just to reinforce my knowledge of light and its dynamics. Hope to get some good results from the Olympus.
I recently got an srt 101 and I'm so excited to use it and now that I know what mistakes to avoid I can't be readier !! Thank you good work on the video!
Very interesting topic regarding drug store development. Here in germany you get your negatives back, they are also way cheaper if you only let them develop the film, without doing the prints. Like ten times cheaper than smaller film labs (3€ for the development of one 120 roll). The only downside is it may take from one to three weeks (especially medium format slide film takes longer in my experience).
Super helpful video! I’m just starting out with film photography. I’ve been watching your vids and it’s been helping me out a lot. Thanks for putting it together!
I use a specialist processor in Cheltenham Gloucestershire UK near where I live. . It's called The Darkroom as well. I get my films developed only, no prints, negatives and colour slides returned filed in sleeves. C41 is the process for Ilford XP2 400 black and white film although it is a colour negative process.
Yes, many people do that, especially when using large format or some unusual medium format cameras. In the 35mm film world most cameras will have a decent light meter built into the body anyway.
I used an app called LightMeter Wheel on my iPhone in the beginning to shoot slide film with my Rolleicords. Once you learn how to see light you don‘t even need an app or external light meter anymore and become good at guessing.
Hi, I really like how you narrow down things especially like me who is still beginning to explore and learn film photography. I am using Minolta Hi Matic AF-D, if you have something to add please I would love to hear moreee
there are super advanced film cameras from the early oughts that have like auto exposure, accurate lightmeters, they can even read the iso straight off the film canister, autofocus, everything and they are way cheap. they use batteries that you can actually buy. i get it they arent hipster enough but they work, you'll have a way easier time.
A point which I hoped you'd mention is about buying old photographic equipment, and not factoring in the costs of repairs/CLA when doing so (or to look for ones already serviced). Most of the stuff is getting pretty old by now and needs some professional attention. Changing the mirror bumper and light seals would be the least I'd do to any camera I pick up. So in a way it is a bit misleading to say you don't need to spend a lot of money on gear, that may be true in the sense that you don't need a lot of gear or the most bells and whistles, however you may be in for a pretty big disappointed when you notice that a large portion of the gear you buy used doesn't work properly.
I recommend that after you understand the basics of exposure and shoot a few rolls of negative film that you experiment with slide film. This will force you to learn how to nail your exposure.
Hi king I like your videos alot and buyed myself a canon a1 😁 but im new to photography in general so you asked what we wanned to see an i relly wanned to see in a video how you set al your settings of a full shoot and why you set them that way
Walgreens sends film to FujiFilm to get developed but you are correct no negatives in return. I found a place local to me who will develop for $5 a roll, then scan for an extra $5. Same day turn around if you drop off early too :) Also depending on how much film you shoot, eventually it becomes more cost effective to develop your own. If you are just scanning and not doing prints, then you don't need a darkroom set up. If you're friends with other film photographers in your area then you can process all your rolls together and split the cost of developing.
hello! i just found my grandma's old cam, its a canon prima bf-7 and it doesnt really have a lot of buttons and im not sure how to use it best, i could use a little help 😢 please
I have a Pentax k1000 (I inherited it from my mom and it's the only camera I have) and I have heard that the lite meter inside of it isn't that great. If I wanted to shoot slide film, should I buy, beg, borrow, or steal a stand alone light meter?
This video resurfaced on my feed. I'm amazed on progress throughout this year. Learning Sunny 16 is a must, you'll understand your own gear capacity and technique. And just like he said, you don't need it wide open. Some of my favourite shots range from F8 to F16, if must F5.6. I appreciate the tips and tools on your channel that I use on film journey 👊.
Under or overexposing black and white, I mean sure if you're talking shooting at box speed and then under/overexposing a frame, but you can push most B&W films as long as you do so for the entire roll, which is essentially underexposing a ton.... I've shot Rollei RPX100 at 3200, that's 5 stops underexposed (or pushed) just tell your lab and they'll develop accordingly...you do get grain, but grain with detail, what people should focus on is the dynamic range of the film, and then meter for the details that are the most important... E-6 (Slide) is more finicky and you are absolutely right that you need to nail the metering as it has a narrower dynamic range (like 5 stops or so) so you either get blown out highlights or no shadows .... BUT no meter can fix bad lighting or wrong lighting ... if the scene has a greater range than your film, you need to either make a choice as to what you want, shadows or highlights :)
Hey, I’ve just got a point and shoot and I’m confused about ISO. I am using ISO 400 film so is it okay to use the 400 ISO setting at night when using a flash or should I use a different ISO.
Is there a video for beginners on how to use "modern" classic film cameras (Cameras made from the 80s to the early 00s with technology like the automated film advance, etc.)?
I was kinda expecting to respond to this saying "but mistakes are how you learn" but this was a nice surprise. This video actually has some really useful tips for beginners, good job man.
In Germany it‘s another story... In every „dm“ drug store you can develop one roll of 35mm film for 1€ and get the negatives sent back. It takes a week at least and sometimes they cut into an actual frame, but itˋs dirt cheap and the developement quality is fine. Plus Kodak Gold is super cheap here, you get a pack of 3 for 8€ in the dm drug store. So you can get a roll+developement for 3,66€, super handy for just snapping around ;) I‘ve done it a lot and am always satisfied with the results.
@@edding6210 Unten in das Feld schreibe ich immer "Keine Abzüge, nur Entwicklung!" - hat bis jetzt immer geklappt und ich hab dafür immer n Euro bezahlt. Und Diafilme kannst du sowieso für 2€ ohne Rahmung entwickeln lassen, das wird auch regulär angeboten.
I'm getting the same camera as you're recommending :) I'll keep track of your ideas and the mistakes I know I'll make XD Thank you for the tips and advice, I'll be sure to watch your videos when it does come in the post :)
How can I loosen the battery cover on my Minolta x-370? The previous owner must haven been super strong because it’s on pretty tight. I tried using a nickel but it keep rubbing the sides.
You set your ISO (on your camera) according to the film stock you use, so the light meter is accurate (so you'd set it to 200 if you're using something like Kodak Gold 200, or if you're using Portra 400 you would set it to 400). This doesn't actually change the way the frame looks like it does on digital cameras, that's all in your aperture and exposure (or the actual film stock you use.) The ISO wheel on your camera just sets the built in light meter for your camera, if it even has one. If your camera has a light meter, it will tell you what Aperture / Shutter Speed to use to get a properly exposed frame - if you don't have a light meter (or even if you do), you should learn about the Sunny 16 rule - it will produce properly exposed frames. If you're talking about overexposing / underexposing film or rating a film higher or lower than it actually is, that's a different story and comes down to how you want the picture to look. Let me know if that's what you mean and I'll explain that as well.
I agree with not spending too much too. The most beautiful pics I ever took were while cruising the fjords. My kit? A 50 year old Olympus Quickmatic I got for £30 and a handful of expired 126 cartridges. Just goes to show…
If you're new to film this video has got you covered! I'm no expert but these are some of the mistakes I made when I was starting out! 👌😈#minoltagang
I’ll say it again I’ve definitely made these mistakes. I had a brief Gear Acquisition Syndrome phase and stopped. Also had mistake #5 and 6. Like I’ve said before your Sunny 16 vid was great and so helpful! Been subbed to you since I think your HP5 + Canon A1 vid or the top reasons to buy an A1. I had inherited mine and was looking at how to use that.
Can you please try vintage Kodak cameras. I have a Kodak Pony ii that was passed down to me and I don’t know if I should use it as a beginner. Please consider and let me know
Hi, I'm brand new to photography. Can you explain how over exposing and under exposing affects your pictures and why you would want to do that? Also, is there a difference if you over expose or under expose when you take the picture compared to asking the lab to push or pull at processing?
What’s the name of the camera you recommended at 03:48 ?
for the love of god, dont slurp coffee into the mic making youtube videos. Seriously, WHY do people do this shit!
Step 1: Replace the batteries in your smoke detector
Sneakers
It takes 1 minute
One of the best tips I was given as a beginner film photographer was to make sure the film was properly loaded in the camera. That sounds silly, but I've had many film photographers say they shot a roll of film and it came back from the lab completely blank. When loading film, make sure the rewind knob rotates as you advance the film. That way you know the leader caught on the take-up spool. It's easy for the film to miss catching on the sprockets and not actually pull out of the canister on to the take-up reel. Oh yeah....#CanonGang!
Yes! Wish I learned this before 2 P400 rolls turned out blank 😂😂 I literally cried as I stepping out of the camera store holding my blank negatives 😂
Yup. Just did this lol 2nd roll advances so smoothly fomparef to fighting the 1st
Can a 35 mm camera that manually advances the film you always want to make sure the rewind knob is rotating on it's own. Also a good idea to find the instruction manual care specific camera online just to familiarize yourself with the camera
Surprised people don’t notice it rewound in like 2 turns and actually had it processed…
This is the first mistake I ever made. Second was overexposing all my shots 😅
KingJvpes: "Here's the top beginner mistakes to avoid!"
Also KingJvpes: "I still havent changed the batteries in my smoke detector"
Oh my god, I'm glad you said something. I was about to go check my detectors after this video haha
Oh I thought those were my smoke detectors 😂😂
by the looks of these replies that was his plan all along, he got us all
I thought that was my shit, come to find it was Kings 🙃
I fully checked my battery, glad it wasnt just me
Even if you been shooting film for a long time like myself, watching these kinds of videos makes you go "oh silly me, how the heck did I forget or missed that"!
A mistake I used to make and especially when I started was, taking more than one frame of the same subject and wasting film in that process. I remember buying my first roll of Kodachrome somewhere in 98 and I was excited to shoot it like the way pro's would. Yep, another mistake I made as well. Took pictures of the same subject more than once, and not familiarize myself of the camera setting. I can imagine the person developing that film.
Yes, I know this video is about 7mo old but it's relevant everyday for everyone. I like to go back and re learn basics, because sometimes we tend to drift away and think we know it all.
Thank you so much for this precious content and yes, I did subscribe.
Get out there and have fun, experiment, and learn something new every day, wether you are new or have been around the block a few times.
I find it entertaining to hear of current younger people "just getting into film". I also like one of your comments about not spending a lot of money on gear. I bought my Minolta x-700 in the late 1980s because I wanted better results than you could typically get at the time with the "kodak instamatics" of the day. I spent a huge chunk of 1980's change ($500ish) on that Minolta because it had the P mode as well as having the Aperture priority mode. It spent most of its life just taking family snapshots and vacation photos. Given that you are spending money every time you click the button, it was difficult to justify experimentation at the time for photography's sake. Once I got my first DIGITAL camera, I could go nuts in full manual modes to really learn the ins and outs of exposure, DOF, etc. Now I may actually go back to the X-700 and see what I can really make that thing do now.
I found a Minolta AF-C for cheap, it's a simple point-and-shoot, I use Fuji C200 film which is the cheapest color film I can buy. I like that old photo album aesthetic.
your advice regarding wasting money on unnecessary equipment is spot on. been doing film for almost 50 years and i still shoot a lot of 35mm on an old pentax k 1000. these can be picked up for a song,and are generally better than the person using them.but if you wanna spend money,do your homework on lenses.then you can cough up some serious cash!
The uncle iroh of film photography 😎
😂😂😂😂😂😂 IM DEAD
Because he's a fire bender?
@@KingJvpes the daddy noel of photography
Just joined the MinoltaGang with an X-700. I wanted to move up from my Pentax K-1000 and have something that could shoot Ap Priority if need be. Just seemed like time and time again I saw this X-700 pop up in peoples videos. Loving it so far, beautiful camera and a great feel.
ty bro, i’m new into film photography, trying to learn a lot, you did it easier for me, good luck 📸
Wow, I never thought drugstores in America were this bad. In germany you pay 2.75€ for the development AND 36 9x13 printed pictures with index and you get the negatives back. damn good value for money
Wo lässt du deine immer entwickeln ? Rossmann?
@@flocheka Bei DM ich komme nicht leicht zu Rossman wie zu DM. Allerdings mag ich was CEWE mit den Bildern macht garnicht. Trotzdem gleich prints zu haben ist echt cool.
Dan Nolle Was das angeht haben wir‘s hier echt gut, gerade auch dass man mit Gold 200 3er Packung so nen billigen (und trotzdem guten) Film in quasi jedem DM bekommt ist echt nicht selbstverständlich. In anderen Ländern fangen die Filme echt erst bei 10€ pro Stück an, da gibt‘s keine günstige Alternative wenn man nur mal ein paar Schnappschüsse machen will... Nur wg. Corona ists ja gerade ein bisschen schwierig aber das wird schon wieder:)
@@flocheka Ist egal. Die schicken alle an CEWE. Komplett egal wo dus abgibst rossmann, dm media markt etc
ob euch die abzüge gefallen oder nicht, ist doch egal. die kosten 1cent(!!!) pro stück. Ihr habt ja negative, könnt jederzeit selbst nen besseren Job beim scannen machen. entwicklung für 2,75 und nen vorschau abzug ist absolut geschenkt
Ok interessant hab bei dm fürn B&W film 40€ gezahlt für entwickeln und abzüge. Müller ist bei ca 10€ mit abzügen. Halt hier in Österreich. Mir gehts eigentlich um das entwickeln von farbfilmen. Vielen Dank für die schnellen infos (Y)
My biggest mistake when I started shooting film photography back in the early 2000s (when I was also learning digital photography at the same time) was definitely underexposing. My digital camera was an Olympus e-500 which had super grainy images, so I inadvertently became obsessed with shooing wide open at low ISO to compensate, and sadly brought those habits over to my film gear as well. No wonder nearly all my photos became hot garbage. These days I'm older and wiser, and I'm studying up, stopping down, and metering properly for both digital and film. The result? Less hot garbage, and more keepers! Go figure!
i just shot a couple of rolls after 1 year of not shooting. i just made the same mistake and doubting to get it developt. there's a big chance of blanco rolls and 1 for sure
1. Forgetting to put the film in. 2. Forgetting to take the lens cap off. 3. Forgetting to turn the camera on. 4. Forgetting to change the ASA from the previous setting. 4. Not getting the film attached correctly to the winder. 5. Check the battery.
Genuinely curious to know cause I heard this a couple of times now - how do people forget to take the lens cap off? I’m very new to film photography and just got a very old Pentax Spotmatic SP. If I had my lens cap on I would just see blackness from my viewfinder. Don’t other film cameras work this way?
You are by far the best film photography teacher on RUclips. I got into film last year and have been watching as many videos as possible. I just found yours and immediately subscribed and have been going through and watching all your content!
Thank you for making valuable and easy to understand videos for all the beginners out there.
I have been shouting film for sixty years, and I appreciate these tutorials immensly.
In the digital world, the values you get from a digital camera does not necessarily translate to analog film.
So just looking at film and how film works makes a ton of difference.
Thank you :-)
You and many other film photographer RUclipsrs are the reason why i regained my passion again and to even persuade me on buying a film camera. Love ✊
Professionally wedding photographer here! Just bought a Minolta XD11!! Haven’t been this excited for photography in a while ❤
Just came across your video!
I recently bought a X-370, taking a break from digital, all of your advice is spot on.
Excited to see the developed product. ☺️
I just bought my first film camera the other day and found your video. thank you so much for the advice!
After starting shooting film in march and learning sunny 16 it changed my film photography for the better. I don't even use batteries in some of my fully manual cameras anymore because i watched your videos on sunny 16. Another great video jonathan.
Sunny 16 is a blessing for people who shoot a lot of random things and do a variety of topics in their photography. I meant to comment in disagreement about the "using only wide open lenses" point, but I guess it stands for beginner photographers. I've been shooting portraits with blurry backgrounds for years now, so I usually have the aperture taped over on my lenses, but that's not what most beginners will want to do though :D
dont you need the battery for the camera to work?
The Point with drug store development is interesting. Here in Germany it's totally different... Yea it's send to a big lab but you not only get your negatives back in 4 picture slices but you can also get scans on a CD and it's way cheaper than going to a small lab (7 Euro for prints and scans instead of 15 Euros just for scans).
warte, wo zahlst du 7 euro für prints und scans? 🤯🤯
@@jukpulfer bei DM C41 Entwicklung mit scans und prints kostet 7,60 (1 Euro Entwicklung + 3 scans + 3 prints)
fuckJuly Müller Drogeriemarkt, ist eine super Stelle für günstige Entwicklung.
Hi, just came acroos your comment. I am also looking into where to have my photos developed and looking between Dm or Rossmann. Would love to hear more from you! 😊
@@jorieannnismal6854 both are fine. I personally go for DM but be aware that the quality isnt the same as with a professinal scan you see in all these RUclips videos. If you want the same quality, i would suggest going to a professional Lab and only get the scans (you can print your favorite pictures later at DM - they charge so much for prints at professional labs...).
2:54 I like that "happy accidents" from Bob Ross. Good Video
I was searching for a X-700, but I wasn’t thinking to use the P mode, so I got X-500 for cheaper. I don’t know what are the prices now, but I’ve got it with a 50/1.7 lens and I am so satisfied by this combination! I might buy a 50/1.4 in the future or wider 28 or 35 mm lens, but this kit of Minolta x-500 with 50/1.7 works amazing!
Keep up with the good work and photography! :)
Hello a year later or so. I’m intriguied by what decision you made on this since im at similar crossroads. Though my camera is a tad older, sr7. Now im shooting with the 55/2 rokkor and im torn between getting a faster ~50 lense or a wider 24/28. Woul’d love hearing what and why on your decision. Also thoughts you had after. Regards, Edvard
2:40 that pic is soo good. I like that retro washed look
Right!? I like it a lot as well!
I LOVE the Darkroom. Finally got my uncle's konica ft-1 fixed and I'm excited to dive in deeper with this camera
Man’s constant ticking fire alarm. : I
This is soooo helpful, I’m not a beginner anymore, but I would have loved having this kind of advice when I was starting. Thank you for helping the community!!
Great video. I think most beginners underexpose their c-41 color film and then get shocked when they don’t have good results. I love shooting Portra +2 stops now for some wiggle room to make sure I don’t underexpose.
good video man! hope you've changed the battery in that smoke detector
Great video man!! Just getting into film for the first time myself! (Also, hope you changed your smoke detector batteries.. lol)
I legit subbed halfway into this video and this is my first one of yours. You explain things so well and you give off such a great vibe. Can’t wait to meet more film photographers like you!
It has been quite a while since I had film developed, but I always got negatives back. This is nuts!
When I was younger I traveled to Europe as part of a school program. I had my beloved Nikon F with photomic finder. When I reached halfway of the trip my photomic batteries died and I had no light metering capability. Sunny 16 helped me as well as learning to “read” light. When you use a meter don’t do it without thought, after a while it helps you to learn how to ‘read’ light without it. The results for me were that I kept shooting through the rest of the trip without a meter but my photos were great.
I have the Yashica Electro 35, its the one in "Amazing Spiderman" I love that movie. Never shot film before, and I hardly know anything about cameras in general but my grandpa is a great photographer and he continues to teach me about it whenever we see each other. Going to the North Carolina mountains possibly for my birthday on the 29th of April. So I will definitely shoot some photographs there, cant wait to see what they look like!
Happy late and early birthday, how'd things go? Still taking pictures?
@hackbodies oh boy, that was a while ago. I think he has all the pictures from that particular trip. I completely forgot about the mountains until now because the other trips I went on since then have been much more memorable, but I will say that the walk was long and the waterfalls were beautiful and looked like silk in long exposure shots. I think I shot mostly digital on that trip. Thanks for asking.
Great video! I just picked up my dad's old Olympus OM 4 and I'm currently shooting my first roll of
B&W film. Can't wait to see the results!
Appreciate you taking the time to make these videos man! I’ve just started and have made some mistakes but I’m also learning from your videos. ✌🏾
I love your channel Jonathan!!! Thanks for taking the time to educate and entertain us, especially during this time. Looking forward to learning a lot about photography through your videos. Stay blessed brother, major love all the way from The Bronx, NY ❤🙏🏽
So I shot a roll of Fuji Superia Colour 400 in my Minolta XG-M today. La La La Love it! Love the feel etc etc etc. (I have been digital for years but relied too heavily on the LCD screen). I was inside a semi well lit room with front light on the subject. 50mm f1.7 lens in manual mode. When I had the exposure compensation meter set on zero at f8 due to having multiple people in the shot, which I would normally do in a digital camera to achieve wide focus sharpness, the camera told me to set the shutter speed at 1/8 or 1/4 second. Obviously no good hand held (normally needs 1/60th maybe 1/30th). So I opened up the aperture to f2.8 or f1.7 to get 1/30th to 1/60th sec hand held to prevent camera shake. So now I'm limited inside to doing portraits of individuals at f1.7 to f2.8 at best hand held??? (normally on a digital camera like the Canon 7D I would simply increase ISO to compensate).
So what I did to give me increased shutter speed is to set the exposure compensation dial down to -1 to -2 stops... am I going to end up with grainy shots on the fuji 400... what am I missing? please don't say a flash unit... not possible when everyone else is using mobile phones and we are in a public church Confession of Faith service... help! yet to develop...
Appreciate your Channel. But this being four years old, if you did an update, I'd include bracketing your shots. We were taught way back to take 3 shots,(1 a half or full stop under, 1 spot on, & 1 over) in order to get one frame that's balanced. Taking notes of surrounding conditions helps the learning curve. Sunny 16? I use a Canon Eos Elan iie that I bought in the 90's taking my 1st/only class,& just got a Canon 1N, still in the box, haven't had time to ck. it, hope it works(too late to return on Ebay.) I use the in camera meters?
Joined minolta gang with srt101, i love it but learning i have destroyed so many films :( as the films got expensive i started buying expired but being a beginner and using expired film is really hard. I hope you can make a video about expired film photography. Thank you for this video✨
Well, I wouldn't say letting your negatives developed at a drugstore is always wrong... I am not a beginner anymore, but I still do.
The Dutch store HEMA takes 135 and 120 both C41 and E6. It costs just €3 respectively €3,50 and when you have it back within a few days. Development takes place at the lab of Fujifilm.
I develop also in Hema, I love the way it looks. Also they always give you the negatives, which is absurd if they dont, its like not giving you the RAW of digital pictures if you give them to someone else to edit them.
Wow that’s so cheap!! I love in Belgium and it costs around 15€ in the Hema to get them developed
@@c.c.2302 Just developing or also printing? The Fuji lab is in Steenbergen, closer to Belgium than to where I life 🙈
@@Uwe_Ludolf yeah, for the developing and printing :/ I might go and check that place out, thanks!!
I get my E-6 development from Hema in Brussels. I think it is about €4.50 per roll, not mounted in frames.
My man out here looking fresh!! Love ur sweat man
Love your vibes. Thank you for the excitement. I am holding my dads very old Minolta Dynax 500si and I am so invigorated to move through the world with film. Your channel will be a must to do this proper!
In germany the drugstores actually are the cheapest option and even give you the negatives back, so they are usually my go to option, as the actual quality of the developing process does not really change much. You have to get prints or scans tho, so I usually just get some prints for my photo box and to see what is on any given film. Tho I will probably start developing myself pretty soon just to safe some money and get faster results.
The "Sunny 16 Rule" is a way to determine a fairly correct exposure if you are without a lightmeter. As in, "my camera doesn't have a light meter", or " darn my battery just died and my light meter is inoperable". It has nothing to do with whether you are using film or digital. It just came about during the film era, when, eh, that was all there was. I hardly ever used it in the field, as film camera batteries lasted for years, not hours. I did use it to as a teaching tool to demonstrate the relationship between f/stop and shutter speed in getting the same exposure with different settings. Film photography is all about the glass and , as you stated, learning about film types. The camera is just a box that holds the film flat, together with some bells and whistles.
Glass, glass, glass! Big mistake of beginner photographers, focusing too much on the camera and ergonomics. It's all about the glass!
I disagree with the first point. Here in Canada (in Calgary anyway), there are only a handful of places that develop film and the most affordable and the most convenient place to go to is from a certain drugstore chain that has a photo lab in-house. They don’t ship it to somewhere else. They develop the film, give back the negatives and provide digital scans.
Coming from a Sony A6000 (100% best budget DSLR on earth) to an 80s Olympus OM-G and I'm very excited.
I typically shoot manual just to reinforce my knowledge of light and its dynamics. Hope to get some good results from the Olympus.
Please change the battery in your smoke detector lol... nice video!
Thanks again for making a great video and to encourage more people to shoot film.
I love the Darkroom. They’re so supportive for newbies
I just picked up a Minolta SRT 100x for $37 with a 50mm and got a Sigma 75-250mm also! Im so excited to start using film
I recently got an srt 101 and I'm so excited to use it and now that I know what mistakes to avoid I can't be readier !! Thank you good work on the video!
SRT101 is a great camera, hope you'll have fun with it!
Very interesting topic regarding drug store development. Here in germany you get your negatives back, they are also way cheaper if you only let them develop the film, without doing the prints. Like ten times cheaper than smaller film labs (3€ for the development of one 120 roll).
The only downside is it may take from one to three weeks (especially medium format slide film takes longer in my experience).
You can't imagine how helpful this is! Thank you so much!
Super helpful video! I’m just starting out with film photography. I’ve been watching your vids and it’s been helping me out a lot. Thanks for putting it together!
my favorite channel so far!!! Absolutely love you content and all ur videos!!
I use a specialist processor in Cheltenham Gloucestershire UK near where I live. . It's called The Darkroom as well.
I get my films developed only, no prints, negatives and colour slides returned filed in sleeves.
C41 is the process for Ilford XP2 400 black and white film although it is a colour negative process.
I'm really apprecaited brother for all the infos!!!👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
If you own a digital camera could you use it to find the correct expose and than just copy the settings onto the film camera?
Yes, many people do that, especially when using large format or some unusual medium format cameras. In the 35mm film world most cameras will have a decent light meter built into the body anyway.
I used an app called LightMeter Wheel on my iPhone in the beginning to shoot slide film with my Rolleicords. Once you learn how to see light you don‘t even need an app or external light meter anymore and become good at guessing.
Hi, I really like how you narrow down things especially like me who is still beginning to explore and learn film photography. I am using Minolta Hi Matic AF-D, if you have something to add please I would love to hear moreee
Very informative. I can't wait to start using mine again ❤❤❤
I recently picked up a BEAUTIFUL Pentax Spotmatic SP2 for 150 bucks with a lense and a leather case. I love it.
there are super advanced film cameras from the early oughts that have like auto exposure, accurate lightmeters, they can even read the iso straight off the film canister, autofocus, everything and they are way cheap. they use batteries that you can actually buy. i get it they arent hipster enough but they work, you'll have a way easier time.
my dad gave me his minolta x7000 and i feel like it's a great camera i have no idea if it is a good camera or not but i love it
Any mechanical Chinon cameras in the M42 mount are a good first choice
My state is in lockdown and these videos allow me to be sane. thanks bro! another great vid
I have a roll of Kodak High speed infrared film, any tips on how to shoot it?
Does the sunny 16 rule only work for film photography or digital as well?
A point which I hoped you'd mention is about buying old photographic equipment, and not factoring in the costs of repairs/CLA when doing so (or to look for ones already serviced). Most of the stuff is getting pretty old by now and needs some professional attention. Changing the mirror bumper and light seals would be the least I'd do to any camera I pick up. So in a way it is a bit misleading to say you don't need to spend a lot of money on gear, that may be true in the sense that you don't need a lot of gear or the most bells and whistles, however you may be in for a pretty big disappointed when you notice that a large portion of the gear you buy used doesn't work properly.
I recommend that after you understand the basics of exposure and shoot a few rolls of negative film that you experiment with slide film. This will force you to learn how to nail your exposure.
mistake number 9... not changing the battery in your smoke detectors before a video
Hi king I like your videos alot and buyed myself a canon a1 😁 but im new to photography in general so you asked what we wanned to see an i relly wanned to see in a video how you set al your settings of a full shoot and why you set them that way
Walgreens sends film to FujiFilm to get developed but you are correct no negatives in return. I found a place local to me who will develop for $5 a roll, then scan for an extra $5. Same day turn around if you drop off early too :) Also depending on how much film you shoot, eventually it becomes more cost effective to develop your own. If you are just scanning and not doing prints, then you don't need a darkroom set up. If you're friends with other film photographers in your area then you can process all your rolls together and split the cost of developing.
what programme do you use to edit photos after scanning?
hello! i just found my grandma's old cam, its a canon prima bf-7 and it doesnt really have a lot of buttons and im not sure how to use it best, i could use a little help 😢 please
Fantastic video presentation! Thank you so much 😊
After watching your videos it makes me fall in love with film. But till now I can’t get a hold of film camera
Never tried film but definitely want to! Thanks for sharing man! 🤙🏻
I have a Pentax k1000 (I inherited it from my mom and it's the only camera I have) and I have heard that the lite meter inside of it isn't that great. If I wanted to shoot slide film, should I buy, beg, borrow, or steal a stand alone light meter?
This video resurfaced on my feed. I'm amazed on progress throughout this year. Learning Sunny 16 is a must, you'll understand your own gear capacity and technique. And just like he said, you don't need it wide open. Some of my favourite shots range from F8 to F16, if must F5.6. I appreciate the tips and tools on your channel that I use on film journey 👊.
Awesome video. Also really like your sweater!
Under or overexposing black and white, I mean sure if you're talking shooting at box speed and then under/overexposing a frame, but you can push most B&W films as long as you do so for the entire roll, which is essentially underexposing a ton.... I've shot Rollei RPX100 at 3200, that's 5 stops underexposed (or pushed) just tell your lab and they'll develop accordingly...you do get grain, but grain with detail, what people should focus on is the dynamic range of the film, and then meter for the details that are the most important... E-6 (Slide) is more finicky and you are absolutely right that you need to nail the metering as it has a narrower dynamic range (like 5 stops or so) so you either get blown out highlights or no shadows .... BUT no meter can fix bad lighting or wrong lighting ... if the scene has a greater range than your film, you need to either make a choice as to what you want, shadows or highlights :)
Hey, I’ve just got a point and shoot and I’m confused about ISO. I am using ISO 400 film so is it okay to use the 400 ISO setting at night when using a flash or should I use a different ISO.
You content really evolved over the year! Keep it up 👌🏼
first camera i got was a canon eos 500n rebel and im getting my film back from it on saturday
Is there a video for beginners on how to use "modern" classic film cameras (Cameras made from the 80s to the early 00s with technology like the automated film advance, etc.)?
I just got a kodak disposable. Right out of the package, what should I do? Am i supposed to turn the dial allll the way or what, im confused
I was kinda expecting to respond to this saying "but mistakes are how you learn" but this was a nice surprise. This video actually has some really useful tips for beginners, good job man.
Rly hyped on the ricoh and XA pov’s!
What about yashica mf 2 super? Is this an okay first timer?
In Germany it‘s another story... In every „dm“ drug store you can develop one roll of 35mm film for 1€ and get the negatives sent back. It takes a week at least and sometimes they cut into an actual frame, but itˋs dirt cheap and the developement quality is fine. Plus Kodak Gold is super cheap here, you get a pack of 3 for 8€ in the dm drug store.
So you can get a roll+developement for 3,66€, super handy for just snapping around ;) I‘ve done it a lot and am always satisfied with the results.
Bekommst du nicht automatisch prints dazu auch wenn du sie nicht ankreuzt?
@@edding6210 Unten in das Feld schreibe ich immer "Keine Abzüge, nur Entwicklung!" - hat bis jetzt immer geklappt und ich hab dafür immer n Euro bezahlt. Und Diafilme kannst du sowieso für 2€ ohne Rahmung entwickeln lassen, das wird auch regulär angeboten.
This video was super helpful! Thank you!
i want to buy nikon fe is it recommended?? or better buy other camera??
I'm getting the same camera as you're recommending :) I'll keep track of your ideas and the mistakes I know I'll make XD Thank you for the tips and advice, I'll be sure to watch your videos when it does come in the post :)
dope video bro just got the ae-1 :)
How can I loosen the battery cover on my Minolta x-370? The previous owner must haven been super strong because it’s on pretty tight. I tried using a nickel but it keep rubbing the sides.
Can you quickly explain to me :( when you over and under expose film aka when to change iso and stuff?
You set your ISO (on your camera) according to the film stock you use, so the light meter is accurate (so you'd set it to 200 if you're using something like Kodak Gold 200, or if you're using Portra 400 you would set it to 400). This doesn't actually change the way the frame looks like it does on digital cameras, that's all in your aperture and exposure (or the actual film stock you use.) The ISO wheel on your camera just sets the built in light meter for your camera, if it even has one.
If your camera has a light meter, it will tell you what Aperture / Shutter Speed to use to get a properly exposed frame - if you don't have a light meter (or even if you do), you should learn about the Sunny 16 rule - it will produce properly exposed frames.
If you're talking about overexposing / underexposing film or rating a film higher or lower than it actually is, that's a different story and comes down to how you want the picture to look. Let me know if that's what you mean and I'll explain that as well.
@@juno980 hi I’d like to hear more about underexposing/overexposing
What do you think about the pentax mg?
I agree with not spending too much too. The most beautiful pics I ever took were while cruising the fjords. My kit? A 50 year old Olympus Quickmatic I got for £30 and a handful of expired 126 cartridges. Just goes to show…