Sunny 16 Explained.
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Today we run through Sunny 16 rule an excellent method of reading light to be able to shoot film without a light meter! This essentially is the
Photographer's cheat code to getting correct exposures every time just by simply reading the available sunlight! If you have any questions or suggestions on sunny 16 please feel free to comment them below! #MinoltaGang
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Sunny 16 is the photographers cheat code! As long as you follow this rule you'll be able to get good exposures every single time! Practice makes perfect, get out there and shoot some film. #Minoltagang
Will this work the same if you try it using a dslr camera?
James great vid, thank you! I’m currently shooting Kodak UltraMax 400 but I have my ISO set to 200. I would set my shutter speed to 1/250 in this situation, correct?
Do these apply to ISO 200 too? I’m shooting on Fuji c200
If my max shutter speed on my camera is 300 would this work for a 400 speed film?
hello japes. can i use the same setting on b&w film? thank you.
Me living in London: "Wait, people shoot at F16 and F11?"
I was at f1.8 - f2.8 in London the other day. Was almost pitch black in the afternoon pissing it down
@@George-tp7zz Reading this in Hackney where it hasn't stopped raining for 5 days
Sunny in London today 😎
Hi from F/22 Singapore! 🇸🇬😉
🤣
Notes from this video:
First thing you should do is set your shutter speed according to your film. If you have 100 ISO film set your shutter closest to 100 so that'd be 125 Shutter Speed. 400 ISO film would be 500 Shutter Speed.
Next you'll set your aperture. This is going to depend on the light conditions.
- f/16 = If it's sunny (no clouds)
- f/11 = sunny + some clouds (1 or 2 clouds)
- f/8 = mostly cloudy (not overcast)
- f/5.6 = overcast or outdoor shade
- f/4 = shade only (no sunlight)
Thanks for this lesson Jonathan. This helped a lot and makes me understand the rule and the different conditions it could be used for.
thanks Garcia for making the notes from the video . i took a screen shot with my phone and now have the aperture table to hand as a memory jogger .
Raymond Kilminster I’m glad it helped!
does this apply to all analog cameras ? i have a minolta dynax 505si super which is kind of semi-digital
@@raymondkilminster2194 yeah me too! Thanks 👍🏼
Michaelo El Grando Why wouldn’t it? If it uses film it works, the only important thing about the camera is having manual mode.
A great explanation of Sunny 16. There is one further step which does slightly complicate matters. If Sunny 16 suggests shooting at a fairly wide aperture based on the prevailing light conditions but you want to increase the depth of field, then you can also apply the rule of reciprocity. In other words, stop down your lens to increase the DoF then increase the shutter speed by the same number of stops, For example: ISO 400 film and overcast conditions suggests 1/500 sec at f5.6. Stop down lens by two stops to f11 for increased DoF then adjust shutter speed by two stops to 1/125 sec. This results in the same exposure based on the rule of reciprocity. Also, like some other comments I would probably go with a shutter speed that is slower than 1/ISO, particularly when using colour negative film. In other words, 1/250 sec for ISO 400 rather than 1/500.
An underrated comment
In regards to the latter part of your comment, and what others online repeatedly say about "overexposing just to be safe," would 1/250 sec for ISO 400 be considered overexposing? Meanwhile, 1/500 sec on a ISO 400 roll would be "underexposing?" Sorry, I'm new to these concepts.
@@orngpeelr9017 In both the cases you mention the over/underexposure would be less than one stop so certainly not too drastic. Given the choice for negative film, I would go with 1/250 sec rather than 1/500 sec for ISO400. Does that help a little?
Chris Bone yeah I think so thanks dude!
Awesome comment, thanks man! Tomorrow I'll go to the shop to get my newly bought cameras (just some cheap vintages to get the hang of film photography as a previously digital only photographer: a Zorki 2-C and a Lubitel 2 Blue), can't wait to try out Sunny16 and when the artistic need tells me, change it up with the rule of reciprocity :)
Photos 1-10 on my first roll of film ever: White as rice
Photos 11-36 on that roll: Ah, I see you've now heard about the Sunny 16 rule!
hahahahahahahah that happened to me :'D
Mine is the other way round, underexposed all my images before learning about this rule lol
Literally on my 10 pic right now and I just changed it 😂😂
Always 5.6 here in Welsh weather
Life of luxury. SF is 16 for 5 minutes. 11 for 2 minutes. 8 for 15 minutes. 16 for 5 more minutes. Then 5.6 for 30 minutes and then repeat... in reverse.
Always makes me laugh seeing the untouched piles of 50 speed film in Dublin shops
oh yes f11 in rome
Wayhey yes lad
😂😂😂😂 it’s true
funny enough, I think what this video could have used was some pictures to illustrate these concepts. nonetheless, this was super informative for a film newbie like me so thank you!
Somewhere, someone is saying "but what about the bokeh???"
Zach Parks 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Just calculate the stops in your head duh
@@strawberryjam3670 whaaaaa
thats literally me
itsw4d3 well, it would really depend on your film ISO and max shutter speed, but opening your lens up all the way to say f1.4 is letting in more light.
Let’s say you’re outside and your meter is telling you 1/125 at f11. To get down to f1.4 you would need a shutter speed of 1/3000.
I prefer to set the aperture I want, then vary the shutter speed to suit the light. This is because aperture has a bigger impact (i.e. depth of field) on my images than shutter speed does. Of course if you're shooting fast moving subjects, you'll want to prioritise shutter speed over aperture.
Me too. But without light meter this method is great.
*Me Living in Southern California*
“Wait there are other aperture settings for Sunny 16?”
Use f22 in blinding snow or at the beach when sun is up and no clouds .
I never shoot on 16 and I live in California 😬
This video brushes over the single most important thing about sunny 16. Sunny 16 is meant to provide a STARTING POINT. Going from that starting point you can and should adjust your aperture and shutter speed according to your needs.
For example you can close your aperture one stop or more and decrease the shutter speed by the same amount and vice versa.
This is EXTREMELY important for controlling depth of field (portraits / landscape) and shutter speed (moving / stationary subjects).
If you only follow the advice given in this video you will cripple yourself unnecessarily
Can you please elaborate a bit more whats the difference for portairs and landscapes and what differences can you see in the depth whe adjusting stops
Hello fellow new film photographers, I have one comment: do not put your shutter speed on 1/500th (assuming you’re shooting 400ISO) for every single shot. Your shutter speed will change depending on the lighting of your subject/shot composition.
this is what i was confused about cause if you have 800 iso film for example and you want to take low light shots wouldnt you want your shutter speed to be slower to capture more light?
@@dangsdonuts you can either change your aperture or shutter speed. The Sunny 16 is generally for subjects outdoors/in sunlight, if your lighting condition changes, you have to compensate accordingly
I remember learning this way back in college, brushed it off when my profs first talked about it but years later I find myself using it... a lot actually lol! Super valuable to know :)
I have this beautiful Minolta SRT01 SLR film camera that I never took out because the light meter didn't work - blah blah blah
Found Riza hehe my fav filmmaker
Bro, I always was interested in film photography, but I was intimidated because it looks very complicated. One random day I watched one of your videos and you make it so clear. You make it sound so fun and not complicated. Today I’m all into film photography and your videos are very helpful and clear. You got me into it, thanks for that. I hope you continue doing videos, I’ll be supporting. Saludos from mex 🇲🇽👋🏼
I 2nd this. I'm in usa
Is there anyway I can check out your photos bro on IG or Twitter? Thanks bro
the other part to photography (which is most important) is remembering to drop off the film to get developed - and seeing how your settings worked out for you, it's all preference in the end - the world is your oyster
Just be me and stumble across a Eos 5 and have to learn this stuff the hard way lmao
Best explaination I've heard. Passing
this to my sister who's just learning. Thanks man!
Also, the shutter/aperture combination gives correct exposures in balanced pairs, so if you want to change your depth of field you can adjust those pairs. Think of them as opposite sides of a teeter-totter, when one side goes up, the other side has to go down: (f16 - 1/60) is equivalent to (f8 - 1/125) or (f5.6 - 1/250) or (f4 - 1/500) or (f2 - 1/1000). In the example, the first setting has a large depth-of-field and each of the following settings has less and less depth-of-field.
Keep in mind however that you can customize your starting "baseline" shutter speed depending on your needs. Its not a "set it and forget it" kind of thing.
Example: I am using 50 ISO film but I want to use a fast shutter speed to prevent the subject from motion blur, or to protect against hand shake. Sunny 16 says 1/50th at f16 for bright sunny daylight. That is the same as 1/100th at f11, or 1/200th at f8, or 1/400th at f5.6, 1/800th at f4. Same exposure for all of them. So I can pick any one of those and from that starting point, I will subtract a stop or a couple of stops or three stops depending on how much cloud cover there is.
It is helpful to write down several of the "Sunny 16" combinations for each film on a piece of paper and stick it in the film reminder thing on the back of the camera, if your camera has one. Then you can choose one which has a fast enough shutter speed for whatever it is you're shooting.
Peoria Videos Ltd Yes! Do you know if there’s a chart like that anywhere on the internet? Would be super helpful.
hello!! I have a Yashica Fx3, that shows a green dot 🟢 when exposure is correct. I have read that it is better to overexpose one step ➕️. My yashica has center weight meter. I also have read that you should point towards a shadow, so that this 🟢 appears. But.. what happens when everything in the frame is very bright and no shadows? where should I point my meter? Should I underexposed my meter if I point towards a sunny area? I dont understand how to meter to have a good exposure. Hope someone can help m
Couple things I did when starting out was I carried a small notebook with me and literally wrote down the whole sunny 16 rules : f16 sun, f11 1-6 clouds...etc. next, I tend to favour a slight overexposure on my color film to prevent muddy shadows, so whatever I was gonna set my shutter speed too, I actually would cut that setting in half ->> 400 iso generally equals a 1/500th shutter, I would set it to 1/250th. That would always give me at least 1 stop of overexposure if I judge it right and if I dont it may come out normal exposure. It was an insurance policy for me while learning all these neat tricks and definitely saved a few of my favorite shots
S.J. Spot on! I did the same thing until I got more comfortable. That 1 stop overexposure is a life saver! Maybe I’ll cover this in an upcoming video? Anyways, thanks for sharing!
What about during sunset if you have a nice clear one ? Or a sunset with clouds ? What f stop?
csandoval24 Sunny 16 rules only really work during the day. At dawn, dusk or indoors you’re either going to have to carry a light meter or guess. There are free light meter apps on your phone, They are not the most accurate, but if you really have no clue it’s better than nothing I suppose
Hi, I would like to start use analog camera. I watched these tutorials and two things are not clear to me, can you please help me? :)
1) If the ISO is given by the photo film. Does the ISO knob on the analog camera change anything?
2) Secong question is a bit dependent on the first answer. When for the safet is better to be 1 stop for overexposing, does that mean you set the shutter or the ISO knob? So for 200 ISO film, you would have set 200 ISO, 125 shutter? Or 200 ISO film set as 100 ISO, 125 shutter?
Thank you!
Or you could just Turn your ISO 1 stop down, so instead of Using an ISO of 400 u should get one at 200.
Not probably, LEARN IT, LIVE IT, LOVE IT!!! Now having said that I’m 73 and learned on my father’s Leica IIIC and IIIF’s. Later on I used his “New” M3 DS. Now, My love affair wandered to Nikon. I bought my first one was while I was in Marine Corps Officer Platoon Leaders school in Quantico, Virginia in 1965. It was an Nikon “F, Photomic T” dinosaurs roamed then. LOL. I do shoot with newer Nikon’s I have my original D1X that I bought new for just shy of $4,000.00 way back when. It’s been back to Nikon twice for software and buffer upgrades. Mine is the “energizer bunny” it keeps going.......... Your video was great! Well presented and VERY comprehensive, TWO THUMBS UP!!!
GIVE THIS MAN AN AWARD🥇 WELL SAID HOMIE! I feel like I FINALLY GOT IT after watching this.... Thank you for sharing you’re knowledgeable. One question tho... How do you feel about setting it on aperture mode when shooting film as well?
You are missing the whole point: these guidelines apply to those who bought an old Leica rangefinder camera and then found out that they had no money left to buy an exposure meter.
These people are also too lazy to read the instruction sheet that came along with the film (now some film manufacturers use the inside of the box to print some instructions).
I am not familiar with Mr. Everybody who shoots only on 400 ASA film: do you know where he is from?
I would also like to add that picking the correct ISO film for the conditions that you are shooting in is extremely beneficial. If you're going to a family BBQ you might not want to load 800 ISO if its direct sun Just like you wouldn't want to use 100 ISO for a late night evening outdoor event.
Right when i bought a Canon P (no light meter) you upload this video. You are the 🐐
how about the (blurry) shallow depth of field on a photo? From what I understand you need the lens open to 1.2, 2.0 to get a nice shallow depth of field. But let's say you're outside on a sunny day, what happens then? I can't open the lens that wide on a sunny day or i'll ruin the photo right?
Luis caballero you are absolutely correct my friend! Opening your lens wide open on a sunny day will make your negatives overexposed UNLESS you get an ND filter to purposely darken your lens so that the light thag comes in exposes properly even if you shoot your lens wide open! (Search up 2 stop ND filter)
KingJvpes ahh got you, so If you want the shallow depth of field outdoors on a sunny day then you will need that filter on your lens, thanks brother, I appreciate the answer.
Well or alternatively you can lower your shutter speed so you don’t need to pay for a ND filter that you probably don’t need.
Joseph Chan makes sense, thanks mate. So 1/125th or lower? On a sunny day. Sorry about the all the questions.
Luis caballero generally half the shutter speed equals a stop lower. Two stops ND equals 1/4 the shutter speed you set using sunny 16. E.g. sunny 16 tells you to use f16 at 1/50, if you want to use it at f2 for the shallow depth of field, f16 to f2 is 6 full f-stop, so the shutter should be 1/50 times 1/2^6 equals 1/3200
Two other useful things I was once taught (to work along side this rather than instead of it):
1- Paying attention to how crisp any shadow edges are can really help you in the f16-f8 area, as shadows tend to have more defined edges on brighter days
2- doubling or halving either your shutter speed or your aperture (not at the same time) should be roughly equivalent to -1/+1 stops of exposure; this is often quite useful if you want to maintain your depth of field whilst still getting a balanced exposure- iso 400 film could be shot at 1/125 and f11/f16 on more overcast days in this fashion, for example!
I've read that in different regions the lighting actually DOES differ which e.g. results in "Sunny 16" instead being more of a "Sunny 11" for us here in Northern Europe.
Yeah, I live in PA, US and I've found this the case more often than not for sunny days.
Hi, new here! So if you're using the rule that suggests overexposing your film and let's say you're using ISO 400 but set it to ISO 200. Would you recommend using 1/500th SS or 1/250th SS to compensate for the change?
New also, but my understanding is setting your film speed as ISO 200 when the camera is loaded with ISO400 film would (all other things, i.e. SS or aperture, being equal) be result in underexposure, given you're telling your camera that it's loaded with film that is actually half as sensitive to light (i.e. ISO200 in the settings) than it is in reality (i.e. the ISO400 loaded).
To compensate, assuming you'd normally choose 1/500@ISO400, you'd need a longer SS to maintain the equivalent base exposure outlined by the S16 guidelines, i.e. decrease SS by 1 stop to 1/250.
To achieve overexposure, rather than the base S16 exposure (and relating to the SS only, i.e. not factoring in the potential of the aperture to affect the exposure) you'd need to stop down the SS again by 1, so go to 1/125.
I find this all incredibly head scratching and it took me a good 10 mins writing and thinking about this comment and I still find it a struggle to comprehend tbh, but I think this is correct - I do hope someone more knowledgable will be able to confirm or not for us though
Nice overview. The other thing I’d mention is that with negative film, you can err on the side of overexposure. Film’s pretty forgiving with highlights and with a scanner you can more easily recover details. It’s easy to crush shadows when underexposed. So if you’re unsure between f8 or f11 and don’t have a light meter, best bet is f8.
hello!! I have a Yashica Fx3, that shows a green dot 🟢 when exposure is correct. I have read that it is better to overexpose one step ➕️. My yashica has center weight meter. I also have read that you should point towards a shadow, so that this 🟢 appears. But.. what happens when everything in the frame is very bright and no shadows? where should I point my meter? Should I underexposed my meter if I point towards a sunny area? I dont understand how to meter to have a good exposure. Hope someone can help m
Wow so much different than digital! This is golden info! I'm so used to thinking about shallow depths of field and bokeh and keeping ISOs as low as possible not to get noise in my digital shots. This looks at ISO in a whooooole different direction! Love it!
Surly you can do the same thing the other way around.
Like - set your aperture to f8 say and then change the shutter speed depending on the light outside..?
I get the theory and I’m sure it works of course but it gives you zero creative control of your images if you can’t choose what aperture(depth of field) you want.
What if I want a shallow depth of field while using the sunny 16 rule? For example, let’s say I am using a 400 iso film, so shutter speed at 1/500, it’s sunny, I set the aperture to f16. But say I want a shallow depth of field, should I set the aperture to a lower f-stop (e.g 11, 8 etc.) and then compensate by reducing the shutter speed even more? If yes, what should I do if the maximum shutter speed on my camera is 1/500 and I can’t set it to 1/1000?
Sorry for all of these questions but I’ve just bought a film camera and have no clue how to use it!
Great video by the way!!
I was thinking the same thing, would reallyyyy love to jnow
yes you compensate stop for stop. So if you drop your aperture then you raise your shutter speed. If you reach max shutter you can use a nd filter, move closer and maybe use a wider lens to force greater depth of field, or shoot a lower iso film. like 100 or lower if you know you're only going to shoot in daylight.
Great video! I also shoot meterless and I'd actually simplify what you said. Here’s what I use, never missed a shot. I always rate my film at +1 (ie portra400 at iso 200) and leave the camera always at the below settings:
SS 1/1000: 🌞F8 ⛅️F4 🌴F2
That means that on a sunny day I mostly use F8 or F2, and I use F4 rarely, only on high contrast areas where I want to keep shadows and highlights. I also shoot at F8 instead of F16 because of the negative impact of diffraction when you close down to F11 or F16. But yeah in the end all you have to remember is F8 or F2 so it’s very easy...and to be honest film has such great latitude that even if you overexposed by 4 stops it’s still ok, so no need to worry about light/hard shades (f2.8 / f2 with the above settings), just shoot always as if it was hard shades :)
By the way indoors in general I find that ISO400 1/30 f2 works for most artificial light.
nice! What would your setting be like for iso 160?
I shoot it in the same way as a ISO 200 film (meaning I'd rate it one stop overexposed and shoot it as if it were at ISO 100)
I am looking to shoot town and streetscapes (not street photography of people so much, but full scenes created by architecture, spaces, greenery, the sky and people in the scenes). I am interested in maintaining sharpness across the frame and a long depth of field for this.
Being in UK, which so far I've gathered from comments generally requires S16 to be adapted to 'S11' due to latitude (as in on the globe, not forgiveness of particular film), and it's also typically overcast of sunny+cloudy here (not to mention I am not sure about the impact of shooting within a from city streets where there might be less light than more typically open scenes you find in american cities and suburbia etc.).
I will only have manual focus on the lens that's come with the camera I've ordered and have heard that the larger the aperture the larger the margin of error for nailing sharp focus is. So off this I thought 'ok, I can try to make sure I shoot at a smaller aperture to ensure I've a better chance of nailing the focus and ensuring the whole scene in the frame is sharp' - but now reading your comment re: diffraction I'm not so sure what to do. Would you have any pointers?
@@Tom-qo4mz Hi Tom,
If you want maximum sharpness shoot at F5.6~F8 (with F4 and F11 still being fairly close sharpness wise). So let’s say you stick with F8, and if the UK requires one extra stop of light, and you add in an extra stop of light further to overexpose the film, then the settings would look something like the below:
(Normal F16 rule)
ISO 400, Shutter 1/500, F16 on sunny days
(UK F16 rule)
ISO 400, Shutter 1/500, F11 on sunny days
(+1 Stop Overexposed)
ISO 400, Shutter 1/500, F8 on sunny days
-> if cloudy, shutter 1/125, F8
-> if on shade, shutter 1/125, F4 (to avoid blurry pics I would avoid slower shutter speeds but you can def do shutter 1/30, F8 instead to always keep it at F8)
@@kurocamera amazing tysm for the detailed and extremely helpful reply - one follow up q if you'll permit me - re: using Portra 400 at ISO 200 setting on your cam - my understanding that all other things being equal (i.e. SS or aperture) you'd be underexposing here given you're telling your camera you're loaded with film that is in fact half as sensitive to light than it is in reality - is this not the case? I am confused given one of the other stated parameters of the exposure triangle being the high shutter speed (1/1000) would further mean the potential for underexposure from '+1ing' the film speed - if I'm correct is the stated SS and ISO here accommodated by stopping down (or is it up) the correct amount of stops into a larger aperture as the starting point for sunny days (i.e. f/8 in your stated set up)?
Dear KingJvpes, I have a few questions about the sunny 16 rule because I am only starting with analog photography. I have a minolta SRT100. with a max shutter speed of 1: 500. So can I use max 400 Iso?
What happens if I am wrong between F16 and F11 or between F8 and F5.6? Does this make a big difference? Thanks in advance and continue the good work
Another point worth mentioning is that with film it's better to slightly overexpose, than to underexpose, because it's easier to recover information from the highlights than the shadows. This is the exact opposite to Digital.
I'm using a camera that only has an ISO setting up to 200 but I have 400 ISO film inside.
How would that affect the sunny 16 rule, would it still be over exposed by 1 stop?
And can I just pull the film during development?
It only matters if you're using the camera's meter, which you typically wouldn't be if going by Sunny 16. Otherwise you just set the shutter to 1/400 for f/16 manually and go by the rule. The camera ISO setting only dictates what the meter shows.
@@Exxcalibur186 Thanks for clearing that up for me I'm a beginner and bought myself a Fujica 35 Auto-M, everything works even the light meter. Gonna get an SLR soon because I can't see what the camera is seeing!
I’ve always been told to set down my shutter speed and favour overexposure, so for ASA 400 film use 1/200 or 1/250 etc rather than 1/500, do you think it matters that much?
Michael Richardson over exposure for color film is generally better than under. BUT it also does affect the look of your film once scanned. Some say it gives more pastel colors and other argue it just makes your exposure a bit brighter. It’s really up to you! This could be a great way to have insurance on your exposure if you were to accidentally misjudge the lighting when setting your aperture
Most lenses have half-stops, so you could begin from f/16, 1/500 s for ASA 400 film, then turn the aperture ring one click wider as a compromise, but yes, it is generally better to over expose than under expose, especially for colour negative film.
If you use black and white, I would say even more so. With 400, I usually use 1/125 with great results
KingJvpes thanks! I’ll give both a try and see which I prefer
Luna Wroblewski yes with B/W film I find overexposure usually yields great results!
Careful: The sunny 16 rule does not apply to slide film. When starting with the sunny 16 rule, use b&w film, it is the most forgiving type of film.
I assume you mean that Sunny 16 applies to slide film as much as anything else, since its a method for exposure calculation unrelated to film type or digital, however slide film requires a fairly accurate exposure determination, which the Sunny 16 Rule does not provide. What I find entertaining here is a guy who is out of pocket thousands for a Leica lecturing on how to avoid spending a hundred bucks on a meter. As you work through this video, you find that he has so many exceptions and qualifications, that it is, in his terms, a bit too much "tricky".
there is a couple of things you didn't tell here. if you are on snow or on a beach over white sand open one f/stop for ex. on sonny day instead of f:16 use f:22. second: in sonny day if your subject is in the shadows use f:5.6 not f:16. third: you can change the settings as follow: if you increase the speed Open the apertures by the same amount of stops. this is what I mean by that. lets say you are shooting 200 ISO on light cast you will need according to the rule 1/250 of a second and f:11, you can shoot a 1/500 of a second and f:8 or 1/125 of a second and f:16, increase the speed close the lens, reduce the speed open the lens, the same number of stops
Does it work for every camera (I'm French) !!!
Absolutely brilliant! You’re fabulous at explaining.. I’m a photography student and no teacher has ever explained this concept. Thanks so much
Explained very well 👍 . Just like my Uncle taught me when I took photos at the 1964 World's Fair . B&W and they all turned out well .
Great explanation of sunny 16. Thanks bro. The way you explained the rule it is a pure shutter priority mode type of shooting. So the assumption is that the viewer understands the consequence of f5.6 or f4 versus f16. The depth of field and therefore the overall look of an image can dramatically change. If the viewer doesnt know that f4 might look different than f16 they are in for a surprise when they get the film developed.
Learned way more here with you than in my college photo class! Thank you, now I understand my camera settings better! :) - @kapturado
The direction of your subject from the sun is usually the deciding factor. I've found F/16 is best at the beach with highly reflective sand or white concrete sidewalks mid-day - but on the street the light can be deceiving by a full stop depending on your lens barrels relationship to the sun. There can be a two-stop difference between light a 11am and 2pm depending on your lens barrels relation to the sun. For film users the F/11 rule will consistently keep you leaning towards over-exposure which is better negative than an under-exposed negative, to me. My Nikon DSLRs under-expose everything it seems at F/16 unless it is a very, very bright scene, which isn't that often.
hi jonathan, i have a few questions. do you think, this trick will is also applicable to digital photography?
For those interested, there's also the looney 11 rule for photographing the moon.
Can you do a video like this for night photography?
This is not related to the video and I don’t know where I can ask these questions. So I have an old point and shoot camera, ricoh rz-750, and I don’t know if it’s working and there’s a film inside. How can I put the film out? What should I do with the film? Can I still develop it? Thanks in advance. More power to this channel.
Put a battery in it and see if it shoots/ advances the film. Im not sure about that specific model but a lot of point and shoots won't fire or advance without film. You could take the film out and develop it if its been used, not sure if you will get results. You would need do it all in a dark room/closet in a blag bag or something so there is no light reaching the film to ruin it. rewind the film though (if possible), open the back door and remove the roll being careful not to rip it off the film advance if it wouldn't rewind. put it into a black film canister or something light tight and get it developed.
Graham White Thank you very much, I appreciate it a lot
@@ztesss_ anytime
I get the ping I see it's the king's
#minoltagang
You shoulda got examples of each sunlight level in pics or video
My mind is like 🤯 I’ve been shooting only digital cameras for almost 7 years and just starting to shoot film and this honestly blown my mind. Really good explained!!!
It’s like you know that I just set up my Bessa. Thanks for the tips 🙏
what about when shooting sports or skating where you need a higher shutter speed? how does this affect the aperture ?
Hunter Seabrook this is my main question too, I don’t get it how you have to follow this rules with having in mind depth of field too and that shutter speed form moving cars and that example u made, someone pls answer haha
Sunny 16 outdoors with this bunch of skyscrapers isn’t the same as a clear sky environment.
What would you consider winter with this? Days where it’s overcast and loads of snow?
Snow is highly reflective of light so you might want to try reducing the aperture further than the recommended overcast S16 guideline of f/5.6 to f/8 maybe? that or increasing your shutter speed if you want to maintain a larger aperture (i.e. f/5.6+) to maintain control over the DoF?
About to shoot my first film roll ever, fixed/refurbished a broken canonet ql19 gonna use ur advice wish me luck!
hi my grandad gave me his canon t50 film camera, if you know anything about this model do you have any tips? i haven’t worked with film much and would love to learn more about the camera before using it!
It's a fairly simply camera but also underrated because of when it was built and its aesthetic. The shutter speed is fully automatic when the dial is on "program" so you can choose your aperture and it will do the rest or set it to "A" on the lens and it will be fully automatic. You don't have as much freedom with settings since you can't choose shutter speed (so you won't need to use the sunny 16 really) but since it was built in the 80s the light meter is much more accurate than earlier cameras and I have seen some great results with it. Definitely underrated.
Graham White awesome! glad to hear all that, i’m lucky to have it
Great vid. I would love to understand how sunny 16 applies to expired films.
Let's say i have a 400 ISO film, expired 20 years ago: for the well known rule of thumb, I have to overexpose my shots by 2 stops, one for decade.
So, in order to properly follow Sunny 16 rule, i just have to set my shutter speed as i was shooting ISO 100 film?
Greetings from Italy.
Finally a video on sunny 16, thanks KingJvpes 🙌
This is one of the best practical rundowns of Sunny 16 I've ever seen! Well done and thanks for making this! (Also wooooo #minoltagang)
I understand the sunny 16 rule now, however what happens when you shoot 400 ISO but at f 1/1000 ?
What happens when you have your ISO set to the box speed and it’s sunny outside but you want to underexpose just a bit without changing the ISO dial? Do you then, change the aperture on the lens to just a stop wider?
Hmm, but we could also teach beginners that if they want a blurry background photo, bring it to like f/1.6 or something low and then adjust the shutter speed around that? Considering all three work in conjunction with eachother I don’t keep my shutter speed the same just because it’s 400iso. If I’m doing a subject photo I’ll drop it to f/1.6 like I said, and then raise the shutter speed, the high aperture (low f speed) lets in more light and the shutter speed lets in less to counterbalance? Am I incorrect?
thanks for this video , i wrote some this down so that i pop back to for reference . thanks king.
A year ago I went to Venice and I took an old film camera with me, that my grandma found on the attic: an Exa 1C with a 50mm f1.8 lens
I threw some Kodak Gold 200 in it and started my trip
The fastest shutter speed is only 1/175s and I shot it in the sun with that shutter speed and f1.8
I didn't know anything about the exposure triangle back then and didn't think about it at all, I just went and snapped away
Now I know quite a few more things and it makes no sense to me that every single photo I shot on this trip is properly exposed.. no clue..
Does anybody know why it worked?
Really helpful video! I have a question, if I'm using ISO 100 and want to shooting moving target, say, the sea, can I jump to 1/500th SS?
Second question, what do I do if I want a shallow depth of field?
Thanks so much!, Just bought my first film cam and this was so helpful.
so there's never a case in daylight to shoot 1.8?
Man, you made this so so easy and common sense.
Just got a Rapid-Omega to get away from my DSLR habit..
Very great tutorial.
new subscriber, Bo
Just use Andy's handy exposure calculator. It's downloadable and you can print it and make a slide rule guide for exposure aperture and shutter settings.
What about a video about actually calculating the shutter speed based on sunny 16? For example if 1/250 and f8 is the correct exposure setting based on sunny16, then we know 1/500 and f5.6 yields the same results too, and 1/1000 and f4, and 1/2000 and f2.8... this would be useful for people who works with tele lens / want shallow dof
If you need higher SS using low ISO film, I’m guessing you can double your SS and open your aperture by a stop?
Yes, use the sunny 16 rule to figure out the "standard" settings for the light. Then as you decide to change your aperture to choose depth of field etc compensate with the shutter speed. So 1 stop bigger aperture = 1 stop faster shutter. And of course if you slow the shutter to get motion blur etc close down the aperture by the same number of stops.
Because film tends to be pretty forgiving you will find that simply changing a setting by a couple of stops or so without compensating with the other setting may be ok. 1 stop really isnt much of a difference in most cases.
F / 16
Shadow
Full sun - clear shade: f / 16
Veiled sun - diffuse shade: -1 stop => f / 11
Against the light or in the shade (clear shade): -3 stops => f / 5.6
Sun above the horizon, before diving: around -4 stops or around f / 4
No shadow
Hidden sun, white sky, visible solar disk with sunglasses: -2 stops => f / 8
Overcast, clear gray, invisible solar disk: -3 stops => f / 5.6
Overcast, leaded gray, it can rain: -4 stops => f / 4
Rain: from -4 to -5 stops i.e. f / 4 to f / 2.8
inside (interior)
From -9 to -10 stops
Just get a basic selenium light meter and learn how to use it. Mine is a Gossen Pilot 2 (made around 1960), and it works with no power, no WiFi, no phone, no battery. It requires only light, and so does photography.
When I went to photography school we were given a sunny 16 guide which also has all the variations for different lighting situations even things like night Time fireworks. So all the other variations are not just guesswork. There are set exposures for those situations as well.
i started on a Voigtlander Vito B, a compact film camera from the mid 50s which only went up to ISO300, and restricts the aperture to within a certain range of the chosen ISO, so sunny 16 has always been hard for me to accurately use the sunny 16 rule, as with my 200 ISO film (120iso set for sunny 16) i couldnt use an F-stop below 5.6
Sorry for the stupid question. So If im using color iso 200 film it will be on 1/250 SP and clear sunny skies at aperture F16.
I get the rules, but what do I need to set for my API dial then on my camera? Same as my film ISO?
Also does this apply with BW films?
Um, this is very misleading. Shutter speed is set based on the action you need to stop and the focal length of the lens when hand holding. So if you have a 500mm lens, your shutter speed has to be at least 1/500th of a second to stop the camera shake from holding such a heavy lens. The aperture falls where it may. Same with stopping action. Higher shutter speeds to stop action - never under 1/250th and usually 1/500 or more.
If I'm understanding correctly, would it be safe to shoot 400 ISO at 5.6 and 1/1000 ? Im a newbie 😂
When I was a kid my parents sent me and my brother to Greece for the whole summer. We took my father’s ancient Kodak camera. Don't remember the name. But it was OLD even for then. You had to estimate the distance of your subject to focus. And you had to also choose sunny , hazy, cloudy, and everything in between. I would say we got about 3/4 of the pics okay. Good guessing.
K. Theodos you sure I was a Kodak? The way you described the setting reminds me of this little point-and-shoot Kinon SL-III I have.
@@robertdominguez6002 Yeah, it was a Kodak. I wanna say Pony but not 100% sure. But definitely a Kodak.
@@Ktheodoss I have a Kodak Pony 135 model B. According to some research I did the Ponys were an affordable entry level camera. Some people had a separate rangefinder accessory to help with distance.
@@robertdominguez6002 I'm sure several camera companies must have had similar models at the time.
In my many many years of working with film. I never heard of sunny 16 and I knew every thing.
So lets say I have a black & white film with the ISO of 8. So if I am understanding this. I would set my Minolta shutter speed to match the film ISO. Which would be 8.
Now lets throw a wrench in the works. I have a film from FPP and it has a ISO of .8 a less then 1 ISO. One my camera can only go as low as 6 ISO and slowest shutter speed is Blub. Now what do now. How would the sunny 16 rule work for me in that case?
Another one
What about Kodak Tmax 3200 ISO film. The camera top shutter speed is 1000? (I am not trying to be a pain in the ass, I'm just trying to get a full understanding of sunny 16 rule)
So I have a super low ISO film and a super high ISO film. Can the Sunny 16 rule work for both of these extreams?
Thank you for explaining sunny f/16. Because I love my 35mm Canon A1 film camera.🙏🏼
ive wanted to get into film photography because i looove taking digital and want more of that classic art to the photos. This video helped me so much, although i think i just ruined a roll of film.. but hey photography progress! Thank you so much!!
it takes a lot of testing to match your film of choice, to your developer of choice, for best enlargement results in the darkroom. This is how:
1. Find a scene with with a good range of tones
2. Using the box speed, meter the darkest area in which you wish to retain shadow detail
3. Move the camera so that you are only photographing this shadow area
4. From the meter's reading close down the aperture by 2 stops or increase the shutter speed by two stops and then expose 6 frames at: the given exposure then +1 stop, +2 stops, -1 stop, -2 stops and -3 stops less than the meter has indicated
5. Process the film
6. Using the frame that was exposed at -3 stops less than the meter indicated (which should be practically clear but will have received lens flair and fogging - i.e a real world maximum black rather than an exposed piece of film that has processing fog)and do a test strip to find out what is the minimum exposure to achieve maximum black - Print must be fully dry before assessing this
7. Do another test strip with the first exposure being what you have selected for achieving maximum black minus your dry-down compensation then plus 1 second, 2 seconds, etc
8. The time that achieves full black inclusive of compensation for dry-down is you minimum exposure to achieve maximum black for all future printing sessions - print must be fully dry before assessing
9 You now know the minimum time to achieve full black inclusive of exposure reduction to accommodate dry-down
10. Using this minimum exposure to achieve maximum black exposure time, expose all of the other test frames.
11. The test print that has good shadow detail indicates which exposure will render good shadow detail and achieve maximum black and provides you with your personal EI for the tested film/developer combination
12 If the negative exposed at the meter reading gives good shadows, your EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) the box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 400)
13. If the negative exposed at +1 stop more than the meter reading gives good shadows, your EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) 1/2 the box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 200)
14. If the negative exposed at +2 stops more than the meter reading gives good shadows, you EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) 1/4 box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 100)
15. If the negative exposed at -1 stop less than the meter reading gives good shadows, you EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) double the box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 800)
16. If the negative exposed at -2 stop less than the meter reading gives good shadows, you EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) 4x the box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 1600)
You have now fixed your personal EI but there is one more testing stage to go.
1. Find a scene with with a good range of tones
2. Using your EI, meter the brightest area in which you wish to retain highlight detail (but not the sky)
3. Move the camera so that you are only photographing this highlight area
4. From the meter's reading open up the aperture by 3 stops or decrease the shutter speed by three stops
5. Expose the whole roll at this setting
6. In the darkroom, process one third of the film for recommended development time
7. When dry put negative in the enlarger and make a three section test strip exposing for half the minimum black time established earlier, for the established minimum black time and for double the minimum black time.
8. Process print and dry it.
9. If the section of the test strip exposed for 1/2 the minimum black time gives bright highlights with a trace of detail then the film requires 20% more development
10. If the section of the test strip exposed for the minimum black time gives bright highlights with a trace of detail then the film is correctly developed
11. If the section of the test strip exposed for double the minimum black time gives bright highlights with a trace of detail then the film requires 20% less development
12. You can use the rest of the exposed highlight test film to fine tune the development time
Im new to film and have 2 questions. If im using portra 400 and want to shoot at +1 stop (so iso 800), does the sunny 16 method still apply? Secondly, If im shooting at F16 1/500 and want to shoot at F5.6... I would have to go down by 3 which would leave me at F5.6 but then would have to compensate the shutter speed by plus 3 which will leave me at over 1/1000. But the problem is im using a canon ae1 and its shutter speed max is 1/1000 meaning i can only compensate it by 1 stop. I would appreciate if someone could answer this :)
Sunny 16. The rule to guide you on how to get an exposure in a good ball park.
bright sunny, no clouds. Match your shutter value to be as close to your iso, and set toF16. Now remember, film prefers to be over exposed, so forget this rule and half your shutter to gain that stop. Hell, film enthusiasts will tell you film can take 2-3 stops over..so drop to 1/250th and drop to F11....I call this the, "Film has so much latitude rule."
Thats the issue with film. You get conflicting top tips. Use the sunny 16 rule, but also make sure you edge into overexposed.
Now lets try the sunny 16, overexposed pushed/pulled rule.
So in my canonet ql17.. it's completely overcast.. and I'm shooting a 200 iso film.. I'll use 250ss and f5.6.. now if I want to play around with a lil bit more depth of field.. from my understanding.. in the same overcast scenario.. to use f4, I'd have to dial up the ss to 500?
I appreciate this insight as I have just received my first film camera and it doesn't have a light meter (Canon P). A;lso, I'm still waiting on my film to arrive which gives me a little time to study such things as Sunny 16 and Zone Focusing! Thanks...
Great video!
I don’t quite get where you get the iso to shutter speed from. As some suggested below, isn’t it just the rule of reciprocity? So why can you say iso 400 is 1/500? Am I missing something? Or is this just something universally know in photography?
And if you got f22 you can use it for reflections or bright snow. Also, i still change my shutter speed if needed and just go higher or lower wit the aperture. The shutter speed does not have to be fixed. I also usually don't use ISO 400 on sunny days but more like 200 or lower, 400 maxes out your shutter speed and aperture pretty fast.
800 is your favorite? You must like grainy pics or you have crappy slow lens? Just get a light meter like a Sekonic 398 and after awhile you wont need either. I have been shooting 35mm for 45 yrs and never used sunny 16.
this is very helpful. may i know how to translate the sunny16 rule when using konica c53 ef? the camera doesn't allow for changes in shutter speed. i can only change the ISO (up to 400) and the basic focus range to portrait, landscape etc.
So, 1/100 or 1/125 sec shutter speed for low light/indoor photography?
So super informative video, for the last few years i always find myself coming back to it for a refresh. but i just have one question, with the shutter speed/iso rule, for people such as myself that get a little shakey when composing, is this rule kinda thrown out the window or? because ive found that i like to set to a 500 shutter speed so it doesnt pick up my shakes. so basically what im asking is, is the sunny 16 rule completely irrelevent for me? is this the same for anyone else?
So if I shoot Overexposed on a Bright sunny day, so 400 film at 200 iso would settings be *i know it'll vary* F16, 200 iso 1/250? Or is that underexposed still trying to figure everything out haha
You said to adjust the shutter speed according to the ISO, but what if it shooting something that’s in movement and it’s outside and I wanna catch the movement and not have it blurry, I’d have to put my shutter speed to at least 500-1000 and that’s not suitable with the film ISO... what do I do then?
Also, I didn’t really know I should adjust the ISO on the camera according to the film, I shot most of my 200/400 film on 100 ISO in the camera, is that gonna make photos look bad? I thought it’s just to adjust the exposure if I’ll need to.
Thank you for answering and for this important lesson.
I try F-16 and its not perfectly expose. I try this on a digital camera. At 400iso and 1/400. After that i turn down the f11 at a full sunny day. After that i get perfectly expose photo. Cool video tho. I probably will call it sunny 11.
Great and clear video. It’s helping me nail every picture in my Konica S rangefinder.
Video was super helpful, but i have question.. i use a mamiya rb67.. I'm sure you know most lenses have a max shutter of 400. can i just use that when using portra 400 when applying the sunny 16? thanks man
Great tutorial. But you have to explain to others that 1/ISO doesn't mean you have to shoot at that shutter speed if you want a different aperture for depth of field or bokeh. In other words, 1/500 at f 16 is the same as 1/250 at f 11, 1/125 at f 8, 1/60 at f 5.6, 1/30 at f 4, etc. That's the part that most newbies forget or don't understand. Andy
Hi, I'm new to film photography and I recently bought an Olympus Pen EE2, any advise on how I can fully maximise its usage and the best films to use? Thank you! ✨.
If I'm going to use indoor flash, my camera flash sync to 1/125 th, and I'm using 200 film.. then what should be my shutter speed?