Getting back to B&W film photography with vintage cameras after 50 years. This was extremely helpful and I can't wait to go out and try Sunny 16 formula. I want to shoot manually and stop relying on automation. Makes it more challenging and interesting. Wish the film was the same cost as the 70's though.
Another trick in my bag to meter with the Sunny 16 rule is to look at the shadows on the streets or walls: - dark shadows with hard edges: f/16 - dark shadows with soft edges: f/11 - pale shadows: f/8 (cloudy) - subtle visible shadows: f/5.6 And so on...
Great commonsense explanation. And THANK YOU for pointing out something that is never mentioned i.e. when Sunny 16 DOESN’T work. You just freed me up to shoot a ton more with my new to me 500 C/M and get more familiar with it. I spend half of every month in NYC for medical treatment and I like to make the most of the time I’m out and feeling well. I’ve wondered what was an appropriate aperture when it’s a sunny day but I’m walking down Broadway towards the Flatiron building. f8 to f5.6. Boom problem solved. Thanks again! 💜💜💜
I heard about this years ago, but never actually was able to grasp it. I’m getting back into my photography - as a artist expression and find this idea (video) will help me (like you said “not take too much time to check all these 3 areas of a shot). Very helpful. Thank you
Another oldie getting back into analogue photography. Had a disappointing set of negs from a recent trip out. Wish I had seen this sooner. Will go out and try again. Thanks for an informative video.
Subscribed! Thanks for the content mate. Q, using the rule, if you are outdoors on a sunny day, how would you set the f, if you want to take portraits, using a say 50mm? As it's sunny using the rule is should be set at f16, but I would like to get the blurry effect? In this instance, wouldn't it be have to be setto say f1.8 - f2.2? And make the changes to the iso and shutter speed? Thanks.
Thank you for explaining the reciprocity of the three different factors. But we can't see the aperture settings at the end of the video, because you blended in thumbnails of other videos, could you please position them elsewhere?
This was very helpful. I tested this out the other day and I’m waiting for my film to return at the moment. I live in Louisiana but it was an overcast day. So I kept the Aperture at f5.6 but I kept getting confused by the shutter speed but for the most part I think I did it correctly. Now is there a method with shooting at night or indoors with no light meter or flash?
Ryan, this was a great refresher for me and very clearly explained. In addition to a few mirrorless cameras, I have several 35mm cameras that I'd love to use more often. Some of my 35mm cameras I can't find a compatible battery to work the meter nor do I have a working light meter at this time! Yes I can, as you mentioned compare digital settings and use them for 35mm shooting but thats not likely to happen! Truly, a perfectly timed and valuable video!! Thank you!
Hey Ryan. Thanks for clearly explaining this concept. If your camera's fastest shutter speed is only 1/500, does that mean you can only open the aperture up 2 stops (to f8), otherwise the shot won't be properly exposed? Thanks.
If you're shooting ISO 400 film to match the 1/500 shutter (or ISO100 + 1/100, or ISO200 + 1/250), you'll be able to use any of the apertures available on your lenses (f/16 in bright sun all the way to f/4 and f/2.8 etc in less light). The beauty of it is that the shutter speed is somewhat "irrelevant" if you're matching the ISO to shutter. You should be good. Happy shooting and thanks for checking out my video!
Im confused a bit an im not a new photographer I went to school for it haha. Surely the iso rating of film changes things yeah? From portra 160 to portra 400 for example. On a bright sunny day I should be able to shoot portra 160 much more open maybe around f/4 with a shutter speed of 1/250th vs the portra 400 yeah? I dont see many people dicuss this...
Yes, absolutely. If you're taking away ~1 stop light by shooting ISO 160 instead of ISO 400 film, then you can definitely open your aperture up by the same number of stops (in this case 1) and create the same exposure reading. But the image itself is going to have a different look due to the difference in aperture, which is a stylistic or artistic choice. The whole point of Sunny 16 is to have a shortcut that lets you not have to think about stops and balancing the triangle in order to create "correct" exposure. Sunny 16 doesn't account for stylistic and artistic uses of the exposure triangle (or film stock, for that matter). It's about exposing quickly, on-the-go (primiarly for street & reportage where speed is key). Hope that makes sense :)
Hey man! Loved the video, you're amazing. I have a question: If I want to overexpose my film, should I also change my Shutter Speed? For example: - Film: 200 - ISO: 100 - Shutter Speed: Still 200/250 or should I also put it on 1/100th of a second? Thank you so much!
thanks so much 🙏🏼 So, If you're shooting on film for Sunny 16, the film speed should match the ISO/ASA setting of your camera (if they don't match, then you're pushing/pulling the film, which is a bit of a separate topic haha) Then to overexpose you'd either open the aperture more or slow down the shutter. But, reading between the lines of your question I *think* that you probably want to follow the aperture guidelines in the video, but slow the shutter to overexpose by 1 stop. Example: if you're using an ISO/ASA 200 film, use a 1/125 shutter instead of the 1/250 shutter...this will overexpose the frame if you're following the aperture guidelines from the video). Hope that's helpful.
So my vintage camera 50mm lenses are F2 and F2.8 to F16, but the fastest shutter speed I have on the Synchro Compur shutters is 1:500th and you have to set the speed first before cocking the shutter, (Diax Ib and IIb and a IIa). So would ISO 400 be the most sensitive film I could reliably shoot with? Could I shoot with ISO 800 with an F stop range which only goes up to F16?
Short answer: yes, for true the Sunny 16 shortcut, the ISO400 is the most sensitive you should use with that setup. Longer Answer: If you're aiming to ONLY use the Sunny 16 rule for every shot you make, then yes I'd personally stick to the 400 speed film and keep the shutter at 1/500. The rule only "works" in the traditional manner if the shutter and ISO match (in my experience ISO400 and 1/500 are close enough. I use that combo a lot when I'm using this rule). Otherwise you're going to have to start mentally calculating stops and half stops of light for every shot, which sort of defeats the purpose of the rule as a shortcut (in my opinion!). That said, there are no rules in photography! :) so you can always try out the ISO 800 and use the scale, just knowing that you'll probably be overexposing everything a bit.
@ Thanks. I did a b&w course decades ago when digital cameras weren’t even around. I’m trying to find my notes! I remember we used a push method and developed the roll of film differently before making prints. Mainly with 400 film though and I haven’t tried 800. Fun to get back into the hobby and experiment.
So for example, if I use Kodak Gold 200, I would expose one stop more to begin with, so 1/100. When I want to use f/2 instead of f/16, I expose 1/6400 instead of 1/100... (6 stops of light more than f/16)
Getting back to B&W film photography with vintage cameras after 50 years. This was extremely helpful and I can't wait to go out and try Sunny 16 formula. I want to shoot manually and stop relying on automation. Makes it more challenging and interesting. Wish the film was the same cost as the 70's though.
This is the first explanation I've actually understood. Thank you!!
Same 😎
Another trick in my bag to meter with the Sunny 16 rule is to look at the shadows on the streets or walls:
- dark shadows with hard edges: f/16
- dark shadows with soft edges: f/11
- pale shadows: f/8 (cloudy)
- subtle visible shadows: f/5.6
And so on...
this may be the most helpful thing ive read since im always being told to meter for shadows
What shiny water/snow etc?
@@letmebereal Sand and snow scenes, use f22.
Great commonsense explanation. And THANK YOU for pointing out something that is never mentioned i.e. when Sunny 16 DOESN’T work. You just freed me up to shoot a ton more with my new to me 500 C/M and get more familiar with it. I spend half of every month in NYC for medical treatment and I like to make the most of the time I’m out and feeling well. I’ve wondered what was an appropriate aperture when it’s a sunny day but I’m walking down Broadway towards the Flatiron building. f8 to f5.6. Boom problem solved. Thanks again! 💜💜💜
You explained the Sunny 16 rule really well. Looking forward to trying it on my Pentax K1000.
let me know how it goes!
This is literally the best explanation I’ve seen. Right to the point and all facts. No hidden information at all either!
Glad you liked it! 🤙🏼
This is the best video explanation I’ve seen, thank you !!
The one from JAK Photo is very good as well
The best explanation I’ve seen. Thank you
I heard about this years ago, but never actually was able to grasp it. I’m getting back into my photography - as a artist expression and find this idea (video) will help me (like you said “not take too much time to check all these 3 areas of a shot). Very helpful.
Thank you
Glad to hear it! Happy shooting
Another oldie getting back into analogue photography. Had a disappointing set of negs from a recent trip out. Wish I had seen this sooner. Will go out and try again. Thanks for an informative video.
You'll pick it back up soon.
With film, if in doubt, over expose by one stop.
What I love about this video is the fast pace of delivering great information. Not a wasted second. Love it. Great video!!!
Have come back to this three times. 10/10 quality video. This is extremely valuable for someone trying to learn!!
Glad it was helpful!
Superb easy and well explained
superb, clear communication. Extremely helpful. Thank you.
Glad to hear it (and thank you very much 🙏🏼)
Thank you for the great video, it was very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
excellent video, and well explained.
Thanks so much! Glad it was helpful 🙏🏼
That was beautifully explained. Thank you very much!!!
super helpful thanks man
Glad to hear it!
Greatness... Thank you... Does Sunny 16 apply to indoors as well?
Sadly, no.
Great explanation, thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
@@ryandavid I shot my first roll of film on my Rolleiflex 2.8e using your advice and the pictures came out so great! Thanks again :)
this makes me so happy to hear! glad I could help. THANKS for sharing back with me. amazing!
Subscribed! Thanks for the content mate. Q, using the rule, if you are outdoors on a sunny day, how would you set the f, if you want to take portraits, using a say 50mm?
As it's sunny using the rule is should be set at f16, but I would like to get the blurry effect? In this instance, wouldn't it be have to be setto say f1.8 - f2.2? And make the changes to the iso and shutter speed? Thanks.
Thank you for explaining the reciprocity of the three different factors. But we can't see the aperture settings at the end of the video, because you blended in thumbnails of other videos, could you please position them elsewhere?
This was very helpful. I tested this out the other day and I’m waiting for my film to return at the moment. I live in Louisiana but it was an overcast day. So I kept the Aperture at f5.6 but I kept getting confused by the shutter speed but for the most part I think I did it correctly. Now is there a method with shooting at night or indoors with no light meter or flash?
Ryan, this was a great refresher for me and very clearly explained. In addition to a few mirrorless cameras, I have several 35mm cameras that I'd love to use more often. Some of my 35mm cameras I can't find a compatible battery to work the meter nor do I have a working light meter at this time! Yes I can, as you mentioned compare digital settings and use them for 35mm shooting but thats not likely to happen! Truly, a perfectly timed and valuable video!! Thank you!
so glad to hear it! Definitely hope that it's helpful. Thanks for watching 🙏🏻
hiii thank you for this!! if shooting film with flash, can i apply this sunny16 rules?
Hey Ryan. Thanks for clearly explaining this concept. If your camera's fastest shutter speed is only 1/500, does that mean you can only open the aperture up 2 stops (to f8), otherwise the shot won't be properly exposed? Thanks.
If you're shooting ISO 400 film to match the 1/500 shutter (or ISO100 + 1/100, or ISO200 + 1/250), you'll be able to use any of the apertures available on your lenses (f/16 in bright sun all the way to f/4 and f/2.8 etc in less light). The beauty of it is that the shutter speed is somewhat "irrelevant" if you're matching the ISO to shutter. You should be good. Happy shooting and thanks for checking out my video!
@@ryandavid thanks for the reply
Im confused a bit an im not a new photographer I went to school for it haha. Surely the iso rating of film changes things yeah? From portra 160 to portra 400 for example. On a bright sunny day I should be able to shoot portra 160 much more open maybe around f/4 with a shutter speed of 1/250th vs the portra 400 yeah? I dont see many people dicuss this...
Yes, absolutely. If you're taking away ~1 stop light by shooting ISO 160 instead of ISO 400 film, then you can definitely open your aperture up by the same number of stops (in this case 1) and create the same exposure reading. But the image itself is going to have a different look due to the difference in aperture, which is a stylistic or artistic choice.
The whole point of Sunny 16 is to have a shortcut that lets you not have to think about stops and balancing the triangle in order to create "correct" exposure. Sunny 16 doesn't account for stylistic and artistic uses of the exposure triangle (or film stock, for that matter). It's about exposing quickly, on-the-go (primiarly for street & reportage where speed is key).
Hope that makes sense :)
Hey man! Loved the video, you're amazing.
I have a question: If I want to overexpose my film, should I also change my Shutter Speed?
For example:
- Film: 200
- ISO: 100
- Shutter Speed: Still 200/250 or should I also put it on 1/100th of a second?
Thank you so much!
thanks so much 🙏🏼
So, If you're shooting on film for Sunny 16, the film speed should match the ISO/ASA setting of your camera (if they don't match, then you're pushing/pulling the film, which is a bit of a separate topic haha)
Then to overexpose you'd either open the aperture more or slow down the shutter.
But, reading between the lines of your question I *think* that you probably want to follow the aperture guidelines in the video, but slow the shutter to overexpose by 1 stop.
Example: if you're using an ISO/ASA 200 film, use a 1/125 shutter instead of the 1/250 shutter...this will overexpose the frame if you're following the aperture guidelines from the video).
Hope that's helpful.
Thanks for this explanation. I may have obliterated my first two rolls of 120 400😅😅. I will try this out and ETTR if in doubt.
You can do it! GL 🤙🏼
So my vintage camera 50mm lenses are F2 and F2.8 to F16, but the fastest shutter speed I have on the Synchro Compur shutters is 1:500th and you have to set the speed first before cocking the shutter, (Diax Ib and IIb and a IIa). So would ISO 400 be the most sensitive film I could reliably shoot with? Could I shoot with ISO 800 with an F stop range which only goes up to F16?
Short answer: yes, for true the Sunny 16 shortcut, the ISO400 is the most sensitive you should use with that setup.
Longer Answer: If you're aiming to ONLY use the Sunny 16 rule for every shot you make, then yes I'd personally stick to the 400 speed film and keep the shutter at 1/500. The rule only "works" in the traditional manner if the shutter and ISO match (in my experience ISO400 and 1/500 are close enough. I use that combo a lot when I'm using this rule). Otherwise you're going to have to start mentally calculating stops and half stops of light for every shot, which sort of defeats the purpose of the rule as a shortcut (in my opinion!).
That said, there are no rules in photography! :) so you can always try out the ISO 800 and use the scale, just knowing that you'll probably be overexposing everything a bit.
@ Thanks. I did a b&w course decades ago when digital cameras weren’t even around. I’m trying to find my notes! I remember we used a push method and developed the roll of film differently before making prints. Mainly with 400 film though and I haven’t tried 800. Fun to get back into the hobby and experiment.
So for example, if I use Kodak Gold 200, I would expose one stop more to begin with, so 1/100. When I want to use f/2 instead of f/16, I expose 1/6400 instead of 1/100... (6 stops of light more than f/16)
Approximately, yes.
so long. explain that in 2 minuts.. please
Some needs to learn patience.
Thank you, excellent tutorial! 👍🏽