Beat the Mopar Tax! Cutting Down your 8 3/4 Rearend at Home
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- One of the major punishments of owning an old Mopar car or truck, can be the limited selection of correct width rearend housings. There were many vehicles that came with 8 3/4 rearend housings that were not considered to be performance applications. With the rising popularity of A body Mopars, you may want a Quick, Cheap, and Dirty way to get that wide rearend under your car.
This rearend is cut down for our friend Randall @BlownBudgetGarage and his 73 Dodge Dart Swinger. Check out his channel for the swap from a 7 1/4" rearend to this 8 3/4" rearend.
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Oh... and JMJ shows you don't need "top of the line" gadgets to get things done. His dial indicators, angle finder, and the such are measuring devices any common person can have in his/her arsenal. 👍👍
Thanks, Tim. We know of the guys with thousand in tools that don’t get their hands dirty.
The great pyrimd of Giza is the most accurate set building too true north in the world all done with water levels and string levels!!... Now that's old school tools!
Awesome Episode!!!! A great way to do this modification, with maximum strength and accuracy.... For those of us , who are working on a budget, yet still need to get the job done with excellent results!!!!
I particularly liked the beveling of the butt ends to be welded together, thst assure maximum penetration and surface area of these multiple-pass weld beads...
@@michaelmartinez1345 thanks brother. It was a deep bevel to allow really good penetration and weld puddle.
@@moparnut6286 Nobody actually knows for a fact how the pyramids were built to this day.
Hi Joe if you use a big enough hose clamp it will tighten down and give you a nice right angled edge to scribe around before you make a cut on the tubes.
That’s a good idea. Thanks brother!
Much more professional than Mopar man 1978 LoL
That guy is a fool
Mopar to the front 🫡
Scott, welcome to the channel. I’ve got a 68 barracuda that I built a stock stroke 400, with multiple dyno videos, making over 500hp and foot pounds. Hope you subscribe. This will be the top of the iceberg for the year 🚀
Nice work! That is a great thing to do with C-body and E-body 8.75 rear ends. ha ha!
Absolutely. Had this one available, so I rolled with it. I’ve seen some fella up north swapping one into his A body before. Nice guy
@@JustMoparJoe 👍
Beat the Mopar Taxi!!
Dart Sport!!
😂
Very nice job Joe.
Was nice of Joe to give you a hand.
Definitely helps having another pair of hands.
I would say that lined up every bit as good as the factory did.
Nice welding.
Thanks for sharing.
Have a great day.
Take care, Ed.
Thanks, Ed. We are hoping the tolerance are on our side.
Great video!! And quoting JMJ “you should ALWAYS replace weak A body parts with the FAR SUPERIOR B body parts” 🦶🏾
That sounds not right 🤔
@@JustMoparJoe really? I could’ve sworn that’s exactly what I heard …😁
Because eight and three-quarter axles are made from stamped Steel they are not always perfectly round or straight. The way you are doing it is going to come out pretty close but hopefully your axles won't have any toe in or toe out front to back. Did you check for that? I've had a couple of housings narrowed by Moser and they reweld the ends on and they don't always look straight to the housing tubes but they assured me when using their alignment tool that they were perfectly straight
I’ve thought about this a while. Stole the technique from a guy on RUclips. I think with the green bearings locking into the ends of the housing bores, and the splines in the ends of the carrier, it uses the axle to align the housing end and tube, to the opposite tube. I would imagine that this could help correct some of the variance because it fixes the point of rotation(the green bearing in flange) and the carrier is used to support the axle end. I liked the idea of doing it with the brake backing plates off, because it allowed the axles to go slightly deeper into the carrier for a bit more alignment. When it gets actually installed, the splines will be slightly further out and should be more true than factory.
Awesome stuff Joe got one truck housing and one out of a C body... But the 70 charger one I have is so close it's going under my 72 dart and it's only a 1/4in difference in the perches and it's wider for a deeper wheel offset too.. but I do want to cut down my other ones for b body use... If you want to keep factory pinion angle just cut one perch off at a time then use two 1ft long 4x4 piece of wood lay the rear on them and weld the new perch where needed with the factory angle still intact..then just repeat for other side.
i had a tough tough time finding a truck 8.75 for Drag Truck. I agree, I personally like B-body (65-67 especially) in Dusters and Dart Sports for the little extra width. But Scamps and Swingers are a little more stingy with the width.
Thanks John! I think we really hit it with the gauge.
@@JustMoparJoe well the gauge never lies!😂😂😂
@@318willrun yeah swingers and scamps valiant, very tight!
@@moparnut6286 I figured use the same broken gauge on his project and hope for the best before and after 😂
If I get rid of a car of mine and get a good driver could I count on you to help me find some parts that's not a arm, leg and a nut to fix it? Thank you for sharing this with us and especially those who are new to the game of wanting a new old school ride and don't mind putting in the work for it. Great afternoon to you all JMJ
I’ll definitely try. 👍🏼
You do realize you have 440 videos.. Next one has to be a BANGER to break the 440 mark
I’ll give it a shot! Lol
Seeing this, I may just give it a whirl myself down the road! Nice work!
You should! Thanks Terry
Nice job....ive always used a stick welder when i re did spring perches...i work on tractor trailers....never shortend a houseing before...i like your process useing basic tools....
Thanks Art! I’ve got a stick machine, but the gas on the hobart can burn it in
Thats nice, I will need to do this to my 12 bolt in Candy Kane after NNN23. Great Video
Go for it! Thanks brother
Nice work. I bought the jig but your method looks like it works great. So far I’ve done 3 8 3/4 housings and built a b body Dana 60 for my roadrunner. Definitely a money saver. I’ve been using Moroso spring perches as they have the correct hole size for the spring pin. Dr Diff axles are great.
Great to hear! I may have to get a jog setup if I’m going to keep doing this stuff. Thanks for sharing on the perches
My dad narrowed an 8.8 for his falcon pretty much the exact same way earlier this year, great minds think alike!
Thanks brother! I had a couple videos of doing my old 8.8 like this too. I stole the idea from RUclips 😂
This is the one job Ive been procrastinating... Want to buzz off a bit under an inch to get the Cragars inside the guards... lot of measuring...I like the pipe cutter idea too.. I was always wondering how you got the cut line parallel... the rest of it doesnt seem too hard... might measure up and do a disc rear too using local parts...saw a how to on the somewhere too...appreciate the share Joe... educating us garage guys one vid at a time!! Love it
Thanks brother. If my pipe cutter bit had been new, it would have eventually made it through the housing. Lol
If access to a lathe, you can machine a counterbore into the back side of the housing end that you cut off and slide it over the axle tube. Then you can weld the ID and OD for a clean look and if housing is cut square the housing end will butt square so no toe ow camber issues.
That’s sexy! Like a redhead
hell yeah i cut my 8 3/4 too with out any special tools i used a grinder lol and just got my tires moving on gear.😎 it's on my youtube channel
Awesome!
Got something for everything now a days. Once upon a time we had to buy custom or. Pay to have a machine shop do splines.
Yea sir
I've torn up too many 8 3/4 rearends.
It's a Ford 9 inch for my Mopar
Haven't broken one yet
This one is in a mild A body. Should be great for the application
Can’t say thank you enough for doing this! Definitely going to make a world of difference with the chunk going in it 💪🏼
She will wake on up!
I put a c body rear end in a d150 and when I welded new perches on it must have warped the housing I had camber on the back of the truck so anybody that is doing this beware
Oh man! That’s a new one on me. Did you install any lowering shackles?
Used to be 100-150 drum to drum, when people were not greedy.On next thoughts. If you could have axle housing 1-2 inch narrower, that would make huge difference for The Dart body, Barracuda 67-69 is Better designed.
This is for a friend and he already bought his wheels and tires. We moved the perches in 5/8” to help pull the leafes away from the tire. 😂
@@JustMoparJoe sometimes that 5/8 can be huge difference lol in Dart world
Ain't too many things these ol' boys can't do
A country boy can survive
We say Grace and we say Ma’am
👍🏻🇦🇺💯love it great job .
Thank you! Cheers!
I see no problem with this working. Great info.
Thanks John. This is my second one. No issues so far 👍🏼
I realized that the 8-3/4 was going to be "something to have", when I couldn't find one.
Exactly! They almost always are out there, in the wrong length 😅
@@JustMoparJoe I've been collecting them ever since. There's a boneyard here where I'm at, with probably 10, hiding under some old mopar c bodies
@@killingcursivekustoms that’s gold!
Yes I am doing that right now I have 2 8 3/4 I have a 741 on my car and I am installing a 8 3/4 489 sure grip posi
Good deal, and good luck. 👍🏼
Thank you I going need all the luck.
Should took an inch more off each side could run wider tires
This one was customer ordered. I would have mini tubbed
Looks good like a shop that specializes in rearends
Thank you!
Good stuff.
Happy Motoring.
Thanks, you too!
Excellent fabing on a shoestring budget Joe. Explain please the 4 degrees when starting to tack.
That was the pinion angle in relationship to the housing. When measured before, it was 3 1/2 degrees. I added a half a degree because this car will see some hard acceleration. Under typical circumstances and acceleration, a lot of that will be at 0-2 degrees because of the twist of the leaf springs. Mopar rearends are centered. The little bit of pinion angle also allows the u joint to swivel some and live longer.
@@JustMoparJoe I thought the pinion snubber took care of that. Thanks for your explanations. They are always warmly received.
Great information!👍
Thanks Mitch. It’s not perfect, but it works well
You just save yourself a wad of cash!👍
Much better!
Oooooo 👀👀👀👀
You clearly have and build some good running mopars. Could you tackle the question of why you see so many that just don't perform as well as they should compared to the #s on paper? SBM is the most under rated engine of all time imho.
I think there’s multiple layers to this. In and out of the car, people build engines with the wrong combinations of Parts. Cams too big, too much gear, too little stall, poor suspension tuning, taking bad advice, choosing exhaust sound over performance, and wrong applications for many engines. I hope some of that makes sense. Another could be that people focus on max Hp and torque figures but not the averages.
@JustMoparJoe that was more of a suggestion/idea for a future video maybe. You have to admit it plagues the mopar camp pretty bad...
@@joeinmi8671 I’m in a bit of glass house with my barracuda. I know it has more in it, but it’s there yet. Been really too hot to get out and test again. My best passes were in early May in nice weather before I switched converters and rocker arms. I’m not far off my mark, but will definitely make some numbers before NNN.
Awesome work! Love the video?
Thank you!
Joe ,You Da Man !
Thanks brother. It was too hot out for this project
Awesome ! I need to do this to a B body housing I have for my 70 Duster!
Can do. If you go custom, Strange can get you axles for around the same price. Doctor diff may can trim these for little cost too
@@JustMoparJoe I have used Doc Diff products but I will probably go with strange for the extra insurance. I’ll be putting this behind a 360 based 426 stroker (Hughes Engines Kit) hopefully the combo will net 600 hp
Pipe cutter works great.
Worked out nicely! I need a new wheel for it
Nice!!
Thanks Jason!
Loved it especially at the end!
Thanks Stan!
Man we need to do this to my Duster.
In cooler weather! 😂
That's a good video Joe
Thanks Russ
Great video JMJ.
Thanks Jonny!
I had that done long ago and it was not cheap
Thanks brother
Easier said than done
It’s true. We had some hours into this. But it came out as nice or better than stock.
For my Satellite we cut the ends off of a C - body 8 3/4 and welded them on a Dana 60 from a 74 Dodge 3/4 ton truck , reused the original 4.10 gears and put them on a Strange spool and Strange 35 spline axles - factory B-body with . Still running the 74 gears knock on wood lol
That’s excellent! If I had to do another for myself, I’d probably find a Dana with 4.10’s and buy new axles and housing ends.
thats a dang good job
Thanks brother
Hi Joe , I did the same thing for my dart sport. Only I used a C body housing and I removed 4.75 in from each side. My housing was down to 50 in. But I did not use a center chuck I just used the Dr Diff axel’s in each side and angle iron and hose clamps. That worked out great.
Nice work! Thanks brother
Looks like a perfectly good way to do it.
Many years ago. I had Henry's Axle(?) shorten & respline some C-body (wagon?) axle shafts in order to get Big Bolt pattern and 11x2-1/2 finned drums to fit my 8-3/4" housing. Worked like a champ.
Excellent! Thanks Bud
Great video Joe!
Thanks brother
Very nice job.
Thanks brother!
The epitome of a useful video right there brother 👏👏👏! You can bet that I will be doing the same thing for my dart soon! Thanks Joe, you just saved me about $2000 last I checked 😅
Right on! My best advice is do it when it cools off outside
Joe I bought the bushings and solid steel rod to center the housing ends to the carrier differential bearing bores, but I can't see anything wrong with your methods!! I need to get off my ass and prep that C-body unit for my '68 Dart. Should be child's play compared to mini-tubbing and moving the springs in!!
Thanks Rod! Little work and she’s done 😅
And this, is what I'm gonna do..lol
Awesome! It seems like everyone runs into this problem. We just need to sell A body housings out the back of a van…
@@JustMoparJoe will have to discuss an idea i have with you abour getting these to do just that.
Great video. I have a 8 3/4' rear axle out of a '73 new Yorker that I'm saving for a spare for my roadrunners. Just a regular guy doing what needs to be done. It's American innovation!
Right on! Do the best you can with what you got!
Very cool 😎
Thanks Shane!
Good job
Thank you! This where I needed a lathe for those axle housing ends
Good stuff! This is a good hand-me-down of an old technique! I will be honest, I was a little sad that you did do it exactly the way I already knew how. I was hoping to learn a new trick this week, haha! No matter, you just reaffirmed my own method as viable to the internet world.... take that you armchair comment bosses!
Absolutely! I stole it straight from RUclips a few years back. I did a 2 part on cutting down an 8.8 ford.
Good info, Joe!
Thanks brother. It’s not high end, but as good as factory
Nice work Joe. I sent a c-body housing and axles to moser. The axles looked great but the welding on the housing was disappointingly crude. Yours looks great.
Sorry to hear that! My hobart will weld 3/16” stuff. I have a blister on my right hand now, through the leather gloves!
Now that's something that I might attempt!
I thought of you when I did this one! Lol
@@JustMoparJoe That's Awesome. I don't know if I'll have time to do something like that before the No Names.
Great video brother! I'm in the process of putting a B-Body 8-3/4 under the truck!🏁
Awesome! Good luck buddy. Tag me in that description. I look forward to it. 👍🏼
@@JustMoparJoe will do!
And guys don’t forget the 9.25 axle assembly. You can do that one too.!
Absolutely! I believe they did that on the gas tap
That was a great video. Your welding is excellent! That baby will outlast us all.
Thanks Brad!
Professional tip rotation for line following to ensure that you have a good straight cut.
It worked
Just a good everyday description on how to do it. One everybody can understand
Thanks Mike!
Chunk will not be a big mess now beautiful work.
Thanks John
Turned out nice! Great job!
Thanks Todd!
Well done! Thanks!
Thanks for the support!
Looking solid JMJ
Thanks John