Hi Tony, can you think about buying a G-TechPro, this would allow you to do a lot of testing with bottle rocket and other cars before hitting the track for the ultimate test. It seems getting to the track is not always that easy for you, weather, time of year, when tracks are open, track locations, tow vehicle break downs, tracks going up hill, animals that you don't like leaving alone (which I 100% agree with), all the other projects you are working on and you like staying around your area. Get a nice day, find a quiet road, kaboom we have some results, it may not be 100% accurate but will show improvements from modifications done, It would also be a good way to verify how accurate the G-TechPro is. Mount the G-TechPro on dash, make a bracket up to point the camera at G-TechPro and take us for a ride and we can see the real time results as they happen!!! Will end up cheaper than driving to the track all the time to get a time slip :) Your thoughts?
Yup, I agree 1000%, and I'll look into one tomorrow. We have taken Bottle Rocket out a couple of times on the street, and even with the radials there is really no hook at all. BUT you are right in that we can get a tune on every other aspect of the car with a fair degree of accuracy that way.
@@needmetal3221 - Ok I didn't know that, just be a great way to speed up the test process for all us fans, I wonder since the Gtech is a dedicated device it could offer more accurate results, I really don't know, I have a really old one here, you enter in the weight of the car and it can measure 1/4 mile times, 0-60mph, HP and cornering Gs. I am sure the new ones are way more advanced and do way more. Tony to investigate best option. What would be really good is Tony can record it all and give us a running cometary of how things are going, I think another thing to try is a O2 gauge in the car, see how well things tune up Tonys way to the Gauge and see if they agree. Thanks Bruce from NZ
@@needmetal3221 yup, if the phone has a good gravity sensor for an app to work with+use it'll tell G-force vs time pretty good incrementally. there are also units available for radio controlled models that will give you a whole lot of data like that, G force all directions can help a lot with tire selection and suspension setup if you're really into racing.
The biggest appeal to this channel is Tony‘s different views vs most channels that just follow each other. Plus his knowledge and history of things is unmatched.
"Supposed to take a minute..." Yeah... So true. I couldve built five more cars by now if reality aligned with my initial time estimates!!🤣 Breakage isnt failure. Its just weeding out the weak links. Its progress... Don't let it get you down!!!
Uncle nailed it. I don't even qualify as a shade tree mechanic, and still the number of times I've been stymied by a simple, short job that should've been doable in a few minutes....
...thats not to say we arent entitled to an expletive-filled rant, accompanied by flying tools, and terrified neighborhood children when somthin breaks. But after that, fix it and move on..🤣😂🤣
We asked for the 318 because they are still available and affordable. I don't think your crowd buys a Hellaphant and goes the Barrett looking for something to drop it in! Always gonna be haters.
Tony, you're the only RUclipsr besides maybe Derek at Vice Grip Garage who actually builds real BUDGET cars. Everyone else is sponsored with thousands in aftermarket parts, and here you are porting and polishing some crusty iron heads to prove a point. You take the intimidation out of building something, which I think is 90% of what happens with new comers to the hobby. Shit breaks, things might not fit right, you'll make mistakes. That's a part of the process. I wasn't spit out of the womb an expert, and the faster I learned that, the easier learning new skills became.
I don't care if it's been months ago in the comments , I love reading stuff where people Just Make Sense ! Well said . And in regards to intimidation , I just changed out daughters CVT on an 08 Nissan and I'm not a mechanic ! I'm just an old parts changer guy ! Rebuilt from shop in SC and works great , saved couple grand . We will see , but yeah why not try it !
Back in the late 80's you would hear stories about gentleman like UTG, we respectful called them Gear Heads. They were the guys that you feared to meet their Muscle cars / buillds on the street. The stories were true and made them local legends.
They don’t get it because they are internet mechanics, guys who watch guys like Cleatus McFarland, who have mega dollars that throw mega bucks into their projects. Cleatus doesn’t even do any of the work, he just throws money to the guys in his workshop and they get the job done. Anyone can throw piles of cash into a project and get results because it’s the easy way. Using what you have and developing it is an art that the younger generations just don’t understand.
Hey any chance u could do an episode on how to set up a rear end? Gearing ? Tolerances ? A real how it works and why and the set up of it. Lash etc. it’s one of the only things I’ve never delved into for fear of F’n it up. Thanks T
A really smart man said to me don’t buy anything new past 2000 for a daily driver because every thing new is cheep . I’ve worked n the stuff I’ve seen it used it and broke it and let me tell yeah the new stuff is disposable Dixies
Don't forget the "race"! Build, Race, Break, Repeat. =D Edit: On a side note. I really want to thank you for the information you're sharing with the world. Minds like yours are rare, and you've taught me sooo much when it comes to Mopars. Always wanted to get into them, just didn't know so much about em. I grew up with a father that always talked Chevy talk. It'll be a sad day when you're gone. Atleast you've shared all your knowledge though - Keeping the Mopar dream alive.
Slow down, when he’s gone? Uncle Tony isn’t going anywhere, Uncle Kathy make sure that we are all enjoying him now, wtf with the talk of when he’s gone...
Time for me to ride my hobby horse again: It'd be great if Uncle got all this down in a book. Yeah, it'd be a lot of work but it would be more permanent and easier to access than videos.
I see less about differentials on RUclips that any other component, yet they're one of the most often broken components when a car has good traction. We especially don't see the kind of detail you're providing on the individual parts.
Good overview. I been playing with toy cars longer than you have. Not bragging, just for perspective. B-O-P rears were the choice for a long time. Then the 57 Vette showed up with their sheet metal drop out and it was light and tough (for the time) so a lot of those migrated from wrecks to gas coupes below the A/GS and B/GS classes. Ford 9" were originally designed for the Lincoln to keep the floor as low and flat as possible. Tough'ish, but with a marginal pinion angle... And they tend to absorb HP ... The Mopar 8 3/4 was the go-to rear for almost all the stuff we built at A&W Engineering (Santa Cruz) for street and strip duty. We had full steel cars with roll up windows in the 11's occasionally and the 12's all day long. And they drove on the street (not to LA or anything). This is when the Beach Boys and Jan & Dean were on the radio. It is my all time favorite rear, period. Build it right and you will not break it. You can not build enough HP in a street car, even on E-85 , to break a well built 8 3/4 : D
Anyone that hasn’t should read “Zen and the Art of Motorcyle Maintenance”. It explains what separates the pretenders from the contenders, and not just in the mechanical world.
I only do Ls boosted shitbox’s, your videos are so good it translates to fuel injection. Watched your video on timing and learned a lot about off idle timing. Thanks for the good content!
There’s nothing wrong with building it properly the first time yes we are all on a budget but there’s allot of budget minded parts out there if you know what to look for. Over building something isn’t always a bad thing or a waist of money it means less time fiddling with shit over and over again and more time for fine tuning and racing.
I love me a coupe for the looks...but a 4-door pillar car for a spirited drive. A bunch of my mates used to rally when I was a kid, and no-one ever even considered a hardtop, as they were not just more floppy, but also heavier - and when you're on a budget and don't have unlimited power at your disposal, weight vs rigidity vs power becomes a huge issue.
Put a Barra in it, or some other Aussie Ford six from the 90s. You could go like this.... ruclips.net/video/zmtVyfC_bBo/видео.html A few USAnians are importing Oz 6s and putting them in Mustangs. This engine is a $300. buy here.
Im too broke to learn lessons that way so when I'm building my big ford mud and trail trucks I try to go as overkill as possible. Costs more upfront but I sleep better knowing the weakest link is me lol. Of course I'm a young man who just bought his first house so I don't have loads of cash either way
The amount of people that jump on me about my Pontiac 350 is insane. I have multiple 400s and 455s. I just like how the 350 performs and a running engine is $200.
Somewhat of a poncho fan here , 350 ain't bad it's just everyone goes for the bigger cubes that are in the same package. Leaves em for guys like you so you can get em cheap 👍
@Hey Yo yeah, there's very little in common between the 301 and the 303. Basically just deck height. The 303 used a 4.121" bore and 2.84" stroke to rev like a banshee. The shorter deck block saves about 40-50lbs over a Chevy 350.
Man I’ve wondered forever about all this eight and three quarter rears. All of the different casing numbers had me confused and I didn’t know if I could use different center sections with the different numbers in the same housing
I enjoy this type of build. This is more on line of what an average guy (not wealthy) can afford. Also a potent 318 that has been built is more interesting than some guy buying a crate big block motor and shooting the car down the track. Keep up the good work UT!
Super cool speech man, I am working on a 1958 plymouth 318A, just saw your overview of that platform. I am tearing it apart today, its seized. You are inspiring to work on this mil and return it to running! Goes in my 1959 Plymouth Suburban hehe.
You do know square socket drain plugs are a test set by the Auto Gods? The sacrifice of plug and socket, along with a little sweat, blood and knuckle skin keeps them sweet. It's part of Auto Karma. Keeps the universe in balance.
The 742 does have a bigger front bearing than the 489 but a smaller rear bearing. A friend of mine builds rears for a living and prefers the 742 over a 489. I think randys ring and pinion reproduces 742 center sections.
I never once questioned why the 318. If you are looking to get into something without breaking the bank there must be a million cars with a 318. I am holding out for that stroker 400 build though. I remember the MOPAR Action article on the 470 and tell everyone it's a 383, too cool.
Playing Devil's Advocate here. The majority of the viewers are neophytes who look to this channel as an inspiration to get into the hobby. However, all the build-break-repeat stuff is doing the exact opposite. They see the low-buck approach fraught with complications and disappointment over the course of the last couple years, and it has many thinking twice about subjecting themselves to same, especially in a time where money is tightening up for a lot of people. Of course, you will always have the watchers who have no intent on monkeying with this stuff. They would still be entertained if you had started with a warmed-over B/RB/727 and made an easy, consistent weekender, and then back-pedaled to see if you could build a smaller engine that ran as fast or better. Anyway, not looking cause a rift. I know nobody here knows me, but I can say that not everybody is a keyboard wannabe, and some of us have opinions that should not be dismissed just because we are viewers. Take care.
Problem is, high-buck builds tend to do exactly the same - run, break, rebuild - as you try to find the weak links. Only difference with low-buck builds is that it's not costing you your mortgage every time you hit the track and discover the next weakest link in the system. I find Tony actually encourages me to have another go, as I can maybe afford a few repairs (especially if it's relatively cheap parts that I can source for myself from a junkyard and rebuild cheaply at home) but I sure can't afford a pro build with all the expensive bits and bobs.
Actually, to a lot of us, it looks like UT is genuinely having fun weeding through the problems and implementing his solutions. If anything, this sort of thing can be very inspiring to a newbie. He's showing how to problem solve and have fun doing it...the journey itself being the reward.
@Hey Yo "...how are you going to know you've got the most out of your parts until you break them?" With that logic, it becomes imperative to break every single part on every single car you own until you take a dirt nap. No thanks, I'll let experience and observation select the right parts for the goal at hand. Driving it like I hate it is for guys with really deep pockets who just can't wait to take that dirt nap. "There aren't too many utg viewers who can afford a 440/727 combo who don't have one already." Oh, really? No young guys just getting into the work force, no older guys retiring with an itch to get back into things? Nobody in between? It amazing how you manage to state that without knowing the situation for every viewer this channel has. Especially with a thought-provoking automotive YT name like Hey Yo. I stand in awe.
Uncle, could you please make a video on how to setup the centersection, step by step? I have a 742 and wanna change to a different ring and pinion ratio. I'd love to do it myself but I'm not confident on setting up the gears properly.
Why not donate it to some poor young guy that loves old Mopars, and his gran pappy gave him an ol Dodge 2 door post, with weird carbs on long pipey looking things. Then watching UT, he can build it up on a budget and have fun. UT already has lots of parts and projects.
I remember you asking your viewers if you should build a 383 or 318 , and alot of people said 318 . Hope the rear end works out . Would like to see a 383 build . Lots of people say there dogs but it just don't seem right . I am sure there is a right way to do it
Do to a chain of event's I've never owned or worked on a classic mopar. But that being said I do love them and never get sick of hearing utg explain in detail the ins and outs of them great channel keep up the great work.
I've been using my old 60 pickup as a daily. It's been an experience but I'll tell you what, for 60 years on the same 6 cylinder and worn out Muncie, that thing still gets me from A to B. She just does it.. abstract like..
Car Wizard has a '54 Savoy that he took the rear axle out of and put an 8.8 in its place. The original rear end looked like an 8.75; do you think maybe that was a 741-series axle?
Where is your attention span........the man has repeatedly stated.....and has stated it yet again in THIS video: WE ARE ONLY USING FACTORY STOCK PARTS WHICH IS THE WHOLE REASON FOR THE CHALLENGE & SPORT OF IT.......not to mention: FACTORY PARTS THAT ANYONE CAN AFFORD. Good grief man, you're just as bad as the guys saying: "Why didn't ya just throw a big block in it"............when are guys like you going to pay attention & get it.
@@howabouthetruth2157 Not really. They can be found in any salvage yard plus all over craigslist. Few hundred for ends and axles and you use your factory brakes and wheels. I have the bar and alignment plates to narrow them. Cost me 700 one time. Put dana a dana 60 in everything i build.
@@howabouthetruth2157 8 3/4 rear and a 742 case. 800 hp in a 3000 lb car with slicks and a transbrake. 6000 stall and leaving and 4600. Never once broken the stock rear or case. Will I next weekend? Maybe. But haven't yet.
@@howabouthetruth2157 Dana 60 came in stocker cars in case you didn't realize. Smart block power can grenade an 8 1/4. More practical would be an 8 3/4. They put those in everything from trucks to vans.
If I had a $1 for every time I said 'this'll only take a few minutes . . .' and it turned into that hours long nightmare, I'd be rich! Rust is The Great Time Monster here in Western PA. Unless it's one of my fair-weather drivers, it's usually a wrestling match to get stuff apart. On another note, love to see you talk about the 9 1/4" axles. Vans and trucks tend to run those, and in the case of a van, the housing is the widest of all and is van-specific. So unless I want to get into more than just an R&R rebuild or upgrade, I need to stick with those. Thanks for some great real-life average car guy tips Uncle Tony!
I'm surprised that your '73 RM21H is factory-equipped with the 8.25" rear , as I thought that that rear was "reserved" for low-perf engines ( 225 , 318 , 400 two barrel ) , whereas the 8.75" was in cars powered by the 340 , E58 360 ( B&E bodies only) , 400-HP , and 440 -- I have seen 400-HP and 440 B-bodies with the 9.25" axle ( resembles a Dana 44 ) for 1973-1974 . Are you sure that someone didn't swap the rear axle in your 'Runner ? I know that the 318 R.R. ( 170hp ; N41 & N42 ) came with a 2.71 geared 8.25" (I'm pretty certain that 2.93 and 3.21 were optional) had the 8.25" ---- I've *never* seen a 340-powered B-bod with the 8.25" .
hi,,,i just purchased a 471 with sure grip 3.55 at the swap meet. i have a 489 non posi 3.23 in my Roadrunner...will the sure grip go into the 489? and id like to add a 4.10 gear set...hoping i didnt make a $700 mistake. at one time i was a wiz at this stuff but i stop doing the car thing and got old lol
Uncle Tony, could you take us through the rebuild of the 8 3/4 centre? I know it takes some time but basics would be good...everyone seems to think its a dark art, but its something you can do at home with a little knowledge and patience
HEY, UNK T- YOU have that 'Waitin' for the airstrike' look about you.... Did you pass the word along? Poor Unk C ... Does she get the honor of being an 'I...witness?' God bless, BRIAN.
I work and pound and scrounge and modify on my 1964 Dodge Polara with a 74 400 bored 40 over with a 83/4 rear end just to get the feeling I used to get watching 1966 batmobile launch from the bat cave when I was 7 years old. Everyone thinks I’m struggling and swearing and having a hell of a time. Quite the opposite, I’m having a great time. Love you uncle Tony, you are the shit!
Is a 383 or a 440 better for power and everyday driving? I’m trying to decide if it would be worth selling my 68 roadrunner 383 and build My 77 RV440 up as a 6 pack 440 with a fuzz bigger cam and 10-11 to 1 compression and possibly aluminum heads or should I just put a fuzz bigger cam in my 383 and up the compression to 10.5 or 11 to 1 compression and run the 202 174 heads it came with carburetor right now would be my 850 CFM Thermoquad. The engine would be for my 69 Roadrunner I want to drive everyday but still want it to be stout.
I've been so happy with all the 318's my family has had. They were all workhorse/daily drivers but those were such good engines. Theyve all lasted 250k miles easy with no rebuilds.. mostly the bodies rusted out due to Michigan winters. When I get an older daily driver ill be looking for a 318.
wait a minute... Watched, liked, am subscribed... but a thought rolled through and it took a while to do it! Did they really put 8 1/4" rear ends behind big blocks?? and Ya busted one behind a 318... ??? for the sake of weight savings, couldn't they (edit, they as in 8 1/4") be considered 'consumable'? though, I did have a 318 and 8 3/4" W100 that survived my teenage thrashing so there's that.
I can attest to your rear end logic as well from a GM stand point. I can only SQUEEK by on a GM 7.5 rear end (G Body) with Drag Radials with a "Stout" SBC350. Being the case, running Full Slicks is certain death and the car is also a Fun Bracket Car.... Build For Purpose...Love ya Unc Tone/Kathy
I read 30 or more years ago that successful executives are NOT those who are right all the time. Rather, the successful executives are those who will MAKE A DECISION and then ride out the consequences, right or wrong. So, this is an approach that works.
"What's gonna give up next?" I got tired of wondering that myself, so just use regular ole' store brand U-joints in the drive shafts on my 4x4s.. Build extremely strong, obscenely expensive axles, TCs, etc.. But use the lowest grade U-joint that'll get the job done, and give up before costing $$$$
Sad you didn’t talk about the different Ratios for the 489,or how to actually build it,I was trying to get info since I removed mine out of my 71 RR Yesterday,my outer bearings seemed sloppy or maybe that’s normal Love your Vids
Not many people know about those pontiac 9.3s......every one thinks there a reg ole 9in.....those 9.3s are darn near indestructible.....so uncle tony whats the real difference between the 8 3/4 and a dana 60 in performance aspects
You ever worked on the rear axle of a 1955 Dodge Custom Royal? Dad bought it new it 55. It’s time to change the rear axle seals, inner and outer. I have pulled the rear pressed on tapered drum/hubs. Now before I go deeper just looking for any tips.
I recently bought a 66 fury and wanted to know what diff it had. I noticed the brass tag on one of the nuts and bolts had 323 stamped on it, I'm sure that means it's a 3:23 ratio. The casting had a large 2 and small 2070742 and a small A with a circle around it, just above that casting number. Your explanation cleared up the casting questions I had. Thanks. It seems that this one is plenty strong for what my needs are. This one should be fine for stock 383.
Million dollar race teams also build until they break. The challenge is figuring out when you're re-inventing the wheel, and just redesigning the wheel. I remember one broke hot rodder who wanted to see how HP he could pull out of a chevy small block for his 1971 Malibu bondo bucket, and I said, "yeah, NASCAR figured that out for you." I'm sure he never had the cash to recover from breaking parts on his way to re-inventing the wheel. Sometimes we just gotta figure out things for ourselves, and other times, its ok to copy what works. What matters is, do you want to work in the garage, or do you want to run the strip or represent at the car shows. There's a ton of wives' tales out there about what works and what doesn't. But I still get the "free thinkers" who swear their 305 is as good as a 350. They ignore science--they had a good 305 once, their cheap friends never tuned their 350's.
Thank you for this very informative video I didn't realise that the housings had that weak area. But I think you got the facts mixed up when describing the three pinions of the 489, 741 & 742. According to Doctor Diff, the 742 is the one with the step and the 741 (although the smallest thickness) does not have the step, it's all smooth. And the 489 has a small step. Here is a link to DoctorDiff, a page about these pinions with a picture of all three lined up. www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/rearend-pinion-comparison/ He also compares them to the Ford 9", saying, among other things, that even the Daytona 9" had a smaller pinion bearing than the 741.
Im a big fan of the 8 3/4". Best of all worlds. Most of all, im addicted to Bottle Rocket. Im going to find one of these, as the coupes are all bought up, and way out of my price point. Really enjoying the unconventional theory behind the 4 speed O. D. trans!
love the video Tony ! i have a 8 3/4 in my 73 Charger with A833 400 engine (originally 318 - 904 ) i have a vibration at 45 MPH + turned out the driveshaft is short hopefully will go away when extending it , can you do a video about installing the differential pinion bearing and seal install please ( am not a mechanic ) , greetings from Lebanon
I use most of this knowledge to help improve my builds(i mainly work on engines that know likes in New Zealand for example Rb20E a Nissan engine most people know RB26DETT and the E series from Toyota witch is 1 liter to 1.6 liters.) its mainly the same but not really.
I have never seen a two-door Chrysler you could not put on a hoist and open the two door and close it back up again. I've only seen four words that that was impossible to do with. Chrysler's were always strong enough to do that. At least all the ones I've ever worked on. Several years ago I actually saw a build of a 72 Dodge Challenger I believe oh, it was putting out 700 horsepower and I believe it was a twin turbo 318. At this was still I believe in the 1980s early 90s. But 3:18 is a very Stout engine if you build it properly. It also doesn't suffer from the flex of the cylinder walls when it Heat sucks after about an hour and a half of running time because you overboard the cylinders. Which all three forties are an over bore engine. It's why the six pack ta blocks had a thicker web so that they could take more heat soak. You need to pick up some Gibbs. It will as you spray it on at leave it soak break through that rust a lot of times where other penetrating oils will not even touch it. It'll be a lifesaver in your case. I have seen engines brought back from dead and rusted locked up by using Gibbs. The 9-inch Ford is just a copy of the 8 3/4 Chrysler rare at. They still were not as strong in most applications
TONY, you are a "Renaissance Man" of sorts. We (that enjoy your channel) love how brutally honest you are about yourself and car culture as a whole. We are a fringe group, and we appreciate your insight. Thanks Again
In a old issue of Hot Rod magazine they were doing a rear end article this was a good 20 years ago they said the 8.3/4 in its stock form was stronger than a Ford 9 inch they said the Dana was the strongest from the big 3 they even said the 8.1/4 was quite strong but the smaller 7 inch Mopar rear they said to avoid at all cost the 8.3/4 LSD has been great for me 20+ years no problems.
Informative video! I have a 8 3/4 rear….276 gear. With the rear wheels off the ground and me turning one tire the other side does not turn. The only time both wheels turn is when I spin the yoke. Is this normal and considered a limited slip rear !!?? Im new at this guys sorry. It’s single traction but I’m confused on why the sides don’t turn at the same time opposite ways when off ground
How much power can those 7 1/4s handle? I have a bit of a lead foot and and having some work done on an 88 Fifth Avenue that may net an increase in power and have only recently learned how weak the rears are in these things. If need be, I'll swap to an 8 1/4, but I am curious how just how weak the 7 1/4 is.
I know cost is a factor but I would be stepping up to some 35 spline axles. Only one direction your going with a spool and a broken 50 year old a axle. However, it is light and a small block, probably fine.
Hi Tony, can you think about buying a G-TechPro, this would allow you to do a lot of testing with bottle rocket and other cars before hitting the track for the ultimate test. It seems getting to the track is not always that easy for you, weather, time of year, when tracks are open, track locations, tow vehicle break downs, tracks going up hill, animals that you don't like leaving alone (which I 100% agree with), all the other projects you are working on and you like staying around your area. Get a nice day, find a quiet road, kaboom we have some results, it may not be 100% accurate but will show improvements from modifications done, It would also be a good way to verify how accurate the G-TechPro is. Mount the G-TechPro on dash, make a bracket up to point the camera at G-TechPro and take us for a ride and we can see the real time results as they happen!!! Will end up cheaper than driving to the track all the time to get a time slip :) Your thoughts?
Yup, I agree 1000%, and I'll look into one tomorrow.
We have taken Bottle Rocket out a couple of times on the street, and even with the radials there is really no hook at all. BUT you are right in that we can get a tune on every other aspect of the car with a fair degree of accuracy that way.
@@UncleTonysGarage there are some phone apps that measure acceleration as well. From what I hear the good ones are pretty accurate
@@needmetal3221 - Ok I didn't know that, just be a great way to speed up the test process for all us fans, I wonder since the Gtech is a dedicated device it could offer more accurate results, I really don't know, I have a really old one here, you enter in the weight of the car and it can measure 1/4 mile times, 0-60mph, HP and cornering Gs. I am sure the new ones are way more advanced and do way more. Tony to investigate best option. What would be really good is Tony can record it all and give us a running cometary of how things are going, I think another thing to try is a O2 gauge in the car, see how well things tune up Tonys way to the Gauge and see if they agree. Thanks Bruce from NZ
@@needmetal3221 They actually are pretty accurate usually with a modern phone. Surprising how accurate they are.
@@needmetal3221 yup, if the phone has a good gravity sensor for an app to work with+use it'll tell G-force vs time pretty good incrementally. there are also units available for radio controlled models that will give you a whole lot of data like that, G force all directions can help a lot with tire selection and suspension setup if you're really into racing.
A really smart man once said “we choose to accept this challenge, not because it’s easy, but because it’s hard”. JFK I think
He was so smart, he wanted to share his mind with all of Dallas.
@@superduty4556
Ba-da-ting 😁😁
Folks 🤣🤣🤣🤣
My lady says that every time.
Yep, he sure did
I was about to pounce on the "hard" thing but you guys already beat it to it. I'm proud of ya.
The biggest appeal to this channel is Tony‘s different views vs most channels that just follow each other. Plus his knowledge and history of things is unmatched.
Tony lived through 70-90s racing history
Let's not forget: You let the viewers decide between a 383 and a 318 for Bottle Rocket. The vote was clear, 2 to 1 for the 318!
"Supposed to take a minute..." Yeah... So true. I couldve built five more cars by now if reality aligned with my initial time estimates!!🤣
Breakage isnt failure. Its just weeding out the weak links. Its progress... Don't let it get you down!!!
Uncle nailed it. I don't even qualify as a shade tree mechanic, and still the number of times I've been stymied by a simple, short job that should've been doable in a few minutes....
like the old sticker.. "if it jams force it, if it breaks it needed replacing anyway"
...thats not to say we arent entitled to an expletive-filled rant, accompanied by flying tools, and terrified neighborhood children when somthin breaks. But after that, fix it and move on..🤣😂🤣
We asked for the 318 because they are still available and affordable. I don't think your crowd buys a Hellaphant and goes the Barrett looking for something to drop it in! Always gonna be haters.
Tony, you're the only RUclipsr besides maybe Derek at Vice Grip Garage who actually builds real BUDGET cars.
Everyone else is sponsored with thousands in aftermarket parts, and here you are porting and polishing some crusty iron heads to prove a point.
You take the intimidation out of building something, which I think is 90% of what happens with new comers to the hobby.
Shit breaks, things might not fit right, you'll make mistakes. That's a part of the process. I wasn't spit out of the womb an expert, and the faster I learned that, the easier learning new skills became.
Derek's terminology can be so dang funny sometimes too.
I don't care if it's been months ago in the comments , I love reading stuff where people Just Make Sense ! Well said . And in regards to intimidation , I just changed out daughters CVT on an 08 Nissan and I'm not a mechanic ! I'm just an old parts changer guy ! Rebuilt from shop in SC and works great , saved couple grand . We will see , but yeah why not try it !
Story of my life.. if it ain't broke your not trying hard enough.
Hahahahaha if it was going to brake why not speed it up a bit 😂🤣
Howlingmad Mudduck *you're
JaCk nickolstine *break
" hold ma beeer..."
Back in the late 80's you would hear stories about gentleman like UTG, we respectful called them Gear Heads. They were the guys that you feared to meet their Muscle cars / buillds on the street. The stories were true and made them local legends.
Drove the 225 64 Valiant today.
Leaning tower of zen.
I love the people with clean fingernails that know everything 😂🤣😂
They don’t get it because they are internet mechanics, guys who watch guys like Cleatus McFarland, who have mega dollars that throw mega bucks into their projects. Cleatus doesn’t even do any of the work, he just throws money to the guys in his workshop and they get the job done. Anyone can throw piles of cash into a project and get results because it’s the easy way. Using what you have and developing it is an art that the younger generations just don’t understand.
Cleetus is slowly starting to do more wrenching but I agree with the rest.
Hey any chance u could do an episode on how to set up a rear end? Gearing ? Tolerances ? A real how it works and why and the set up of it. Lash etc. it’s one of the only things I’ve never delved into for fear of F’n it up. Thanks T
A really smart man said to me don’t buy anything new past 2000 for a daily driver because every thing new is cheep . I’ve worked n the stuff I’ve seen it used it and broke it and let me tell yeah the new stuff is disposable Dixies
Don't forget the "race"! Build, Race, Break, Repeat. =D
Edit: On a side note. I really want to thank you for the information you're sharing with the world. Minds like yours are rare, and you've taught me sooo much when it comes to Mopars. Always wanted to get into them, just didn't know so much about em. I grew up with a father that always talked Chevy talk.
It'll be a sad day when you're gone. Atleast you've shared all your knowledge though - Keeping the Mopar dream alive.
Slow down, when he’s gone? Uncle Tony isn’t going anywhere, Uncle Kathy make sure that we are all enjoying him now, wtf with the talk of when he’s gone...
Time for me to ride my hobby horse again: It'd be great if Uncle got all this down in a book. Yeah, it'd be a lot of work but it would be more permanent and easier to access than videos.
Do you Tony. Experts will always be on their keyboards.
Lol thats why I just posted a vid on my channel 😂
Shameless plugging son of a gun ,I am
Any interest, if Bottle Rocket will be ready, to take a shot at the Mopar vs BrandX show down in Alabama in November that Rattymusclecars puts on?
A definite possibility. That's exactly the kind of thing we'd like to run with this car
@@UncleTonysGarage oh man I hope it happens, and know it'll be a scramble to have her ready, especially for un-juiced and juiced both.
I see less about differentials on RUclips that any other component, yet they're one of the most often broken components when a car has good traction. We especially don't see the kind of detail you're providing on the individual parts.
I deduct if it isn't on here, it will break.
Let's scroll to the bottom to check out the jerk comments.....
I build and try not to break cause I PORE.
Good overview. I been playing with toy cars longer than you have. Not bragging, just for perspective. B-O-P rears were the choice for a long time. Then the 57 Vette showed up with their sheet metal drop out and it was light and tough (for the time) so a lot of those migrated from wrecks to gas coupes below the A/GS and B/GS classes.
Ford 9" were originally designed for the Lincoln to keep the floor as low and flat as possible. Tough'ish, but with a marginal pinion angle... And they tend to absorb HP ...
The Mopar 8 3/4 was the go-to rear for almost all the stuff we built at A&W Engineering (Santa Cruz) for street and strip duty. We had full steel cars with roll up windows in the 11's occasionally and the 12's all day long. And they drove on the street (not to LA or anything). This is when the Beach Boys and Jan & Dean were on the radio.
It is my all time favorite rear, period. Build it right and you will not break it. You can not build enough HP in a street car, even on E-85 , to break a well built 8 3/4 : D
Anyone that hasn’t should read “Zen and the Art of Motorcyle Maintenance”. It explains what separates the pretenders from the contenders, and not just in the mechanical world.
I only do Ls boosted shitbox’s, your videos are so good it translates to fuel injection. Watched your video on timing and learned a lot about off idle timing. Thanks for the good content!
Most of the time it's not using the parts you want,but the parts you have.
There’s nothing wrong with building it properly the first time yes we are all on a budget but there’s allot of budget minded parts out there if you know what to look for. Over building something isn’t always a bad thing or a waist of money it means less time fiddling with shit over and over again and more time for fine tuning and racing.
Breakage on rodding is expected. Breakage on grocery getters are a pain in the ass...LOL
I love bottle rocket and the parts your using and why your using those parts. It's different and thats why it's cool
I love me a coupe for the looks...but a 4-door pillar car for a spirited drive. A bunch of my mates used to rally when I was a kid, and no-one ever even considered a hardtop, as they were not just more floppy, but also heavier - and when you're on a budget and don't have unlimited power at your disposal, weight vs rigidity vs power becomes a huge issue.
If one more person tells me to stop my inline 200 Mustang build, and "Just put a 302 in it." ...
I'm gonna get thrown in prison.
I agree, it is even more aggravating when you are building a 302 and they say LS swap it! ( I like your user name btw👍👍)
Yours with the original 200-6 is the one I really want to see. 302 Mustangs grow on trees.
I'll play your silly game "just put an industrial 300 inline six in it!"
(would scoot pretty hard too for sure)
Put a Barra in it, or some other Aussie Ford six from the 90s. You could go like this....
ruclips.net/video/zmtVyfC_bBo/видео.html
A few USAnians are importing Oz 6s and putting them in Mustangs. This engine is a $300. buy here.
It's called Hotrodding....
Im too broke to learn lessons that way so when I'm building my big ford mud and trail trucks I try to go as overkill as possible. Costs more upfront but I sleep better knowing the weakest link is me lol. Of course I'm a young man who just bought his first house so I don't have loads of cash either way
The amount of people that jump on me about my Pontiac 350 is insane. I have multiple 400s and 455s. I just like how the 350 performs and a running engine is $200.
Plus, 455 and other large journal engines have gotten crazy expensive.
Somewhat of a poncho fan here , 350 ain't bad it's just everyone goes for the bigger cubes that are in the same package. Leaves em for guys like you so you can get em cheap 👍
@Hey Yo We're taking a 78 Pontiac 350, setting baselines and chipping away at it. Overall goal for the car is 10s under 10k.
I really want to chase down a Turbo 301 and build a 303 clone. Gonna be spendy.
@Hey Yo yeah, there's very little in common between the 301 and the 303. Basically just deck height.
The 303 used a 4.121" bore and 2.84" stroke to rev like a banshee. The shorter deck block saves about 40-50lbs over a Chevy 350.
Man I’ve wondered forever about all this eight and three quarter rears. All of the different casing numbers had me confused and I didn’t know if I could use different center sections with the different numbers in the same housing
I enjoy this type of build. This is more on line of what an average guy (not wealthy) can afford. Also a potent 318 that has been built is more interesting than some guy buying a crate big block motor and shooting the car down the track. Keep up the good work UT!
Ahhh... The game show Weakest Link comes to mind.
Oh goodie ! The "experts".
Great vid Tony.
Super cool speech man, I am working on a 1958 plymouth 318A, just saw your overview of that platform. I am tearing it apart today, its seized. You are inspiring to work on this mil and return it to running!
Goes in my 1959 Plymouth Suburban hehe.
You do know square socket drain plugs are a test set by the Auto Gods? The sacrifice of plug and socket, along with a little sweat, blood and knuckle skin keeps them sweet. It's part of Auto Karma. Keeps the universe in balance.
Build Break Repeat . 🤔
Just Empty Every Pocket !
Just a four door Taxicab? One of the holy grails for me would be a 1970 Fury I factory taxi package with a 318. Just try to find one of those....
Does the 742 case have a larger front bearing? It seems that the front pinion bearing was always a weakness on the Mopars.
The only pinion bearing problems with these rears (that I'm aware of) usually center around people trying to reuse the crush collar on the 489's.
The 742 does have a bigger front bearing than the 489 but a smaller rear bearing. A friend of mine builds rears for a living and prefers the 742 over a 489. I think randys ring and pinion reproduces 742 center sections.
We have to booger things up once in awhile to learn from our mistakes.
My daily driver breaking is definitely a failure.
The race car breaking in practice means that you know what *won't* break in the race.
Dude. Every time I watch a video from you I learn something. You have forgot more than many people will know.
I never once questioned why the 318. If you are looking to get into something without breaking the bank there must be a million cars with a 318. I am holding out for that stroker 400 build though. I remember the MOPAR Action article on the 470 and tell everyone it's a 383, too cool.
Personally I blame squirrels
Squirrels are fast... Sometimes cats have trouble catching them...and cats have dana 60s lol
@Hey Yo 🐿🐿🐿🐿😘
@Hey Yo 🐿🐿🐿
@@oldpolak5203 The reason they are always happy!😁😁
@@oldpolak5203 😂
So you view building up a 318 as an exercise in self-mortification. Isn't it easier to just get a hair shirt? You can get them on Amazon.
I run an 8 3/4 in my altered, solid mounted. The thing takes serious abuse.
Playing Devil's Advocate here. The majority of the viewers are neophytes who look to this channel as an inspiration to get into the hobby. However, all the build-break-repeat stuff is doing the exact opposite. They see the low-buck approach fraught with complications and disappointment over the course of the last couple years, and it has many thinking twice about subjecting themselves to same, especially in a time where money is tightening up for a lot of people. Of course, you will always have the watchers who have no intent on monkeying with this stuff. They would still be entertained if you had started with a warmed-over B/RB/727 and made an easy, consistent weekender, and then back-pedaled to see if you could build a smaller engine that ran as fast or better.
Anyway, not looking cause a rift. I know nobody here knows me, but I can say that not everybody is a keyboard wannabe, and some of us have opinions that should not be dismissed just because we are viewers. Take care.
Problem is, high-buck builds tend to do exactly the same - run, break, rebuild - as you try to find the weak links. Only difference with low-buck builds is that it's not costing you your mortgage every time you hit the track and discover the next weakest link in the system. I find Tony actually encourages me to have another go, as I can maybe afford a few repairs (especially if it's relatively cheap parts that I can source for myself from a junkyard and rebuild cheaply at home) but I sure can't afford a pro build with all the expensive bits and bobs.
Actually, to a lot of us, it looks like UT is genuinely having fun weeding through the problems and implementing his solutions. If anything, this sort of thing can be very inspiring to a newbie. He's showing how to problem solve and have fun doing it...the journey itself being the reward.
Yer the problem here.
In a fraction of the time it took to write that puffed up opinion, you could have unsubscribed and left the room and we would all be better off.
@Hey Yo "...how are you going to know you've got the most out of your parts until you break them?" With that logic, it becomes imperative to break every single part on every single car you own until you take a dirt nap. No thanks, I'll let experience and observation select the right parts for the goal at hand. Driving it like I hate it is for guys with really deep pockets who just can't wait to take that dirt nap.
"There aren't too many utg viewers who can afford a 440/727 combo who don't have one already." Oh, really? No young guys just getting into the work force, no older guys retiring with an itch to get back into things? Nobody in between? It amazing how you manage to state that without knowing the situation for every viewer this channel has. Especially with a thought-provoking automotive YT name like Hey Yo. I stand in awe.
UT has reached his tolerance for keyboard experts lol
Love this shit. Love hearing about old school automobile engineering.
Uncle, could you please make a video on how to setup the centersection, step by step? I have a 742 and wanna change to a different ring and pinion ratio. I'd love to do it myself but I'm not confident on setting up the gears properly.
I have a 69 8 3/4 full rear thats just laying here. Well actually a full 69 charger drivetrain just laying here I could donate to your channel.
Why not donate it to some poor young guy that loves old Mopars, and his gran pappy gave him an ol Dodge 2 door post, with weird carbs on long pipey looking things. Then watching UT, he can build it up on a budget and have fun. UT already has lots of parts and projects.
@@kramrollin69 Some people like to see their stuff reach its potential.
Build, break.... replace with a Ford nine inch...
Holy crap tony! That was a good show man! What got into you!? These are the kind of shows you need to start doing.
Problems,
A problem is only an Opportunity to Create a Solution..
@Ø Orginal...
Oi oi oi...
Yep... I was wondering if it had a driveshaft loop, LOL.
Getting one now
This is exactly why they say, don't take your rear end fluid out until you take the plug out first. If you cannot put oil in you are screwed....
I remember you asking your viewers if you should build a 383 or 318 , and alot of people said 318 . Hope the rear end works out . Would like to see a 383 build . Lots of people say there dogs but it just don't seem right . I am sure there is a right way to do it
We're going to build a 383 for our gambler car. We were originally going to go SB with it, but I'm really wanting to do another B engine.
@@UncleTonysGarage 😀😆🤣😀 very happy to hear
Plan Z!!
If it ain't broke, you ain't tryin.
"489", remember this number.
and 420
Cant tell you how many 727's and 8-3/4's ive grenaded
I've scattered my share too
I really enjoyed this one. I finally understand the differences between the 3 housings
Do to a chain of event's I've never owned or worked on a classic mopar. But that being said I do love them and never get sick of hearing utg explain in detail the ins and outs of them great channel keep up the great work.
Others overbuild
I am with YOU TONY
I've been using my old 60 pickup as a daily. It's been an experience but I'll tell you what, for 60 years on the same 6 cylinder and worn out Muncie, that thing still gets me from A to B.
She just does it.. abstract like..
8 and 3/4 in my hotrod blown early 392 with 3.73 sure grip and had the caps replaced with steel caps by Mark Williams....
Car Wizard has a '54 Savoy that he took the rear axle out of and put an 8.8 in its place. The original rear end looked like an 8.75; do you think maybe that was a 741-series axle?
use a Dana 60 rear with a tall enough gear and you'll never break a thing!
Where is your attention span........the man has repeatedly stated.....and has stated it yet again in THIS video: WE ARE ONLY USING FACTORY STOCK PARTS WHICH IS THE WHOLE REASON FOR THE CHALLENGE & SPORT OF IT.......not to mention: FACTORY PARTS THAT ANYONE CAN AFFORD. Good grief man, you're just as bad as the guys saying: "Why didn't ya just throw a big block in it"............when are guys like you going to pay attention & get it.
@@howabouthetruth2157 Not really. They can be found in any salvage yard plus all over craigslist. Few hundred for ends and axles and you use your factory brakes and wheels. I have the bar and alignment plates to narrow them. Cost me 700 one time. Put dana a dana 60 in everything i build.
@@wyattcollier8930 You still don't get it. Un-freaking believable.
@@howabouthetruth2157 8 3/4 rear and a 742 case. 800 hp in a 3000 lb car with slicks and a transbrake. 6000 stall and leaving and 4600. Never once broken the stock rear or case. Will I next weekend? Maybe. But haven't yet.
@@howabouthetruth2157 Dana 60 came in stocker cars in case you didn't realize. Smart block power can grenade an 8 1/4. More practical would be an 8 3/4. They put those in everything from trucks to vans.
If I had a $1 for every time I said 'this'll only take a few minutes . . .' and it turned into that hours long nightmare, I'd be rich! Rust is The Great Time Monster here in Western PA. Unless it's one of my fair-weather drivers, it's usually a wrestling match to get stuff apart.
On another note, love to see you talk about the 9 1/4" axles. Vans and trucks tend to run those, and in the case of a van, the housing is the widest of all and is van-specific. So unless I want to get into more than just an R&R rebuild or upgrade, I need to stick with those. Thanks for some great real-life average car guy tips Uncle Tony!
I'm surprised that your '73 RM21H is factory-equipped with the 8.25" rear , as I thought that that rear was "reserved" for low-perf engines ( 225 , 318 , 400 two barrel ) , whereas the 8.75" was in cars powered by the 340 , E58 360 ( B&E bodies only) , 400-HP , and 440 -- I have seen 400-HP and 440 B-bodies with the 9.25" axle ( resembles a Dana 44 ) for 1973-1974 .
Are you sure that someone didn't swap the rear axle in your 'Runner ? I know that the 318 R.R. ( 170hp ; N41 & N42 ) came with a 2.71 geared 8.25" (I'm pretty certain that 2.93 and 3.21 were optional) had the 8.25" ---- I've *never* seen a 340-powered B-bod with the 8.25" .
hi,,,i just purchased a 471 with sure grip 3.55 at the swap meet. i have a 489 non posi 3.23 in my Roadrunner...will the sure grip go into the 489? and id like to add a 4.10 gear set...hoping i didnt make a $700 mistake. at one time i was a wiz at this stuff but i stop doing the car thing and got old lol
Uncle Tony, could you take us through the rebuild of the 8 3/4 centre? I know it takes some time but basics would be good...everyone seems to think its a dark art, but its something you can do at home with a little knowledge and patience
HEY, UNK T-
YOU have that 'Waitin' for the airstrike' look about you....
Did you pass the word along?
Poor Unk C ...
Does she get the honor of being an 'I...witness?'
God bless,
BRIAN.
If it sticks, use force! If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway. (ancient German proverb)
Always fix it faster!
I work and pound and scrounge and modify on my 1964 Dodge Polara with a 74 400 bored 40 over with a 83/4 rear end just to get the feeling I used to get watching 1966 batmobile launch from the bat cave when I was 7 years old. Everyone thinks I’m struggling and swearing and having a hell of a time.
Quite the opposite, I’m having a great time. Love you uncle Tony, you are the shit!
Is a 383 or a 440 better for power and everyday driving?
I’m trying to decide if it would be worth selling my 68 roadrunner 383 and build My 77 RV440 up as a 6 pack 440 with a fuzz bigger cam and 10-11 to 1 compression and possibly aluminum heads or should I just put a fuzz bigger cam in my 383 and up the compression to 10.5 or 11 to 1 compression and run the 202 174 heads it came with carburetor right now would be my 850 CFM Thermoquad.
The engine would be for my 69 Roadrunner I want to drive everyday but still want it to be stout.
Brilliant video mate. Love the nerdyness of this particular video. Keep them coming!!!!
I've been so happy with all the 318's my family has had. They were all workhorse/daily drivers but those were such good engines. Theyve all lasted 250k miles easy with no rebuilds.. mostly the bodies rusted out due to Michigan winters. When I get an older daily driver ill be looking for a 318.
wait a minute... Watched, liked, am subscribed... but a thought rolled through and it took a while to do it!
Did they really put 8 1/4" rear ends behind big blocks?? and Ya busted one behind a 318... ??? for the sake of weight savings, couldn't they (edit, they as in 8 1/4") be considered 'consumable'?
though, I did have a 318 and 8 3/4" W100 that survived my teenage thrashing so there's that.
I can attest to your rear end logic as well from a GM stand point. I can only SQUEEK by on a GM 7.5 rear end (G Body) with Drag Radials with a "Stout" SBC350.
Being the case, running Full Slicks is certain death and the car is also a Fun Bracket Car.... Build For Purpose...Love ya Unc Tone/Kathy
I read 30 or more years ago that successful executives are NOT those who are right all the time. Rather, the successful executives are those who will MAKE A DECISION and then ride out the consequences, right or wrong.
So, this is an approach that works.
"What's gonna give up next?" I got tired of wondering that myself, so just use regular ole' store brand U-joints in the drive shafts on my 4x4s.. Build extremely strong, obscenely expensive axles, TCs, etc.. But use the lowest grade U-joint that'll get the job done, and give up before costing $$$$
Sad you didn’t talk about the different Ratios for the 489,or how to actually build it,I was trying to get info since I removed mine out of my 71 RR
Yesterday,my outer bearings seemed sloppy or maybe that’s normal
Love your Vids
Not many people know about those pontiac 9.3s......every one thinks there a reg ole 9in.....those 9.3s are darn near indestructible.....so uncle tony whats the real difference between the 8 3/4 and a dana 60 in performance aspects
You ever worked on the rear axle of a 1955 Dodge Custom Royal?
Dad bought it new it 55.
It’s time to change the rear axle seals, inner and outer.
I have pulled the rear pressed on tapered drum/hubs. Now before I go deeper just looking for any tips.
I recently bought a 66 fury and wanted to know what diff it had. I noticed the brass tag on one of the nuts and bolts had 323 stamped on it, I'm sure that means it's a 3:23 ratio. The casting had a large 2 and small 2070742 and a small A with a circle around it, just above that casting number. Your explanation cleared up the casting questions I had. Thanks. It seems that this one is plenty strong for what my needs are. This one should be fine for stock 383.
Million dollar race teams also build until they break. The challenge is figuring out when you're re-inventing the wheel, and just redesigning the wheel. I remember one broke hot rodder who wanted to see how HP he could pull out of a chevy small block for his 1971 Malibu bondo bucket, and I said, "yeah, NASCAR figured that out for you." I'm sure he never had the cash to recover from breaking parts on his way to re-inventing the wheel.
Sometimes we just gotta figure out things for ourselves, and other times, its ok to copy what works. What matters is, do you want to work in the garage, or do you want to run the strip or represent at the car shows. There's a ton of wives' tales out there about what works and what doesn't. But I still get the "free thinkers" who swear their 305 is as good as a 350. They ignore science--they had a good 305 once, their cheap friends never tuned their 350's.
Thank you for this very informative video I didn't realise that the housings had that weak area. But I think you got the facts mixed up when describing the three pinions of the 489, 741 & 742. According to Doctor Diff, the 742 is the one with the step and the 741 (although the smallest thickness) does not have the step, it's all smooth. And the 489 has a small step. Here is a link to DoctorDiff, a page about these pinions with a picture of all three lined up.
www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/rearend-pinion-comparison/
He also compares them to the Ford 9", saying, among other things, that even the Daytona 9" had a smaller pinion bearing than the 741.
Im a big fan of the 8 3/4". Best of all worlds. Most of all, im addicted to Bottle Rocket. Im going to find one of these, as the coupes are all bought up, and way out of my price point. Really enjoying the unconventional theory behind the 4 speed O. D. trans!
love the video Tony ! i have a 8 3/4 in my 73 Charger with A833 400 engine (originally 318 - 904 ) i have a vibration at 45 MPH + turned out the driveshaft is short hopefully will go away when extending it , can you do a video about installing the differential pinion bearing and seal install please ( am not a mechanic ) , greetings from Lebanon
Race and replace. I like the roadrunner. Imagine going to remove that drain plug with the rear end installed.
I use most of this knowledge to help improve my builds(i mainly work on engines that know likes in New Zealand for example Rb20E a Nissan engine most people know RB26DETT and the E series from Toyota witch is 1 liter to 1.6 liters.) its mainly the same but not really.
I have never seen a two-door Chrysler you could not put on a hoist and open the two door and close it back up again. I've only seen four words that that was impossible to do with. Chrysler's were always strong enough to do that. At least all the ones I've ever worked on.
Several years ago I actually saw a build of a 72 Dodge Challenger I believe oh, it was putting out 700 horsepower and I believe it was a twin turbo 318. At this was still I believe in the 1980s early 90s. But 3:18 is a very Stout engine if you build it properly. It also doesn't suffer from the flex of the cylinder walls when it Heat sucks after about an hour and a half of running time because you overboard the cylinders. Which all three forties are an over bore engine. It's why the six pack ta blocks had a thicker web so that they could take more heat soak.
You need to pick up some Gibbs. It will as you spray it on at leave it soak break through that rust a lot of times where other penetrating oils will not even touch it. It'll be a lifesaver in your case. I have seen engines brought back from dead and rusted locked up by using Gibbs.
The 9-inch Ford is just a copy of the 8 3/4 Chrysler rare at. They still were not as strong in most applications
TONY, you are a "Renaissance Man" of sorts. We (that enjoy your channel) love how brutally honest you are about yourself and car culture as a whole. We are a fringe group, and we appreciate your insight. Thanks Again
In a old issue of Hot Rod magazine they were doing a rear end article this was a good 20 years ago they said the 8.3/4 in its stock form was stronger than a Ford 9 inch they said the Dana was the strongest from the big 3 they even said the 8.1/4 was quite strong but the smaller 7 inch Mopar rear they said to avoid at all cost the 8.3/4 LSD has been great for me 20+ years no problems.
Informative video! I have a 8 3/4 rear….276 gear. With the rear wheels off the ground and me turning one tire the other side does not turn. The only time both wheels turn is when I spin the yoke. Is this normal and considered a limited slip rear !!?? Im new at this guys sorry. It’s single traction but I’m confused on why the sides don’t turn at the same time opposite ways when off ground
How much power can those 7 1/4s handle? I have a bit of a lead foot and and having some work done on an 88 Fifth Avenue that may net an increase in power and have only recently learned how weak the rears are in these things. If need be, I'll swap to an 8 1/4, but I am curious how just how weak the 7 1/4 is.
I know cost is a factor but I would be stepping up to some 35 spline axles. Only one direction your going with a spool and a broken 50 year old a axle. However, it is light and a small block, probably fine.