I was born in 76' thank goodness I got to spend 95'&1996 helping Micky Holmes in his fully tooled machine shop in his barn.... He built and operated his machine shop mostly so he could keep his boy on the dirt track... While we were building 390s and 460s Micky filled my head with stories of how he did things back in the day when he had just got back from fighting a war in France. I can imagine how my life would have turned out if it were not for a chance introduction with micky and he told a 19 yr old kid to come back anytime. That goofy kid came back everyday until his was with cancer was finally over...
They a few of us young beards around to that have the knowledge because we grew up around and learned from grey beards like you all lol. Hotrodding It's still alive and well my friend
Why ? Back pressure has a big play on things. Trust me. I’m 30 yrs old now still have my first car. My ‘72 Vette 350 lt1 4spd. When I was 16 I put a 2.5 inch exhaust on it. Straight back, each their own pipe coming from the manifolds no X or H in the middle. Now yeah she sounded good. That grumble.. the pops and bangs were worth it on decel alone. But I lost some down low punch. I could literally feel the difference... oh and the gas mileage went down.. that was noticeable too cus that 4 barrel quadrajet carb was thirsty already. And I barely knew squat about anything back then car wise. So yeah. Back pressure matters bruv. 2.5 inch exhaust an up for big blocks. Keep it 2 and 1/4 or less for small blocks. Real shit I’ve done the tests and have the seat time. If you believe me or not is up to you. I mean I prob wouldn’t believe my dumbass but it’s the truth from my experience.
@@beezy7412 what you experienced makes absolute sense but was due to a lack of proper exhaust scavenging, not backpressure. The crossover is what provides scavenging between two pipes which is why vehicles rarely run truly separate exhaust pipes (and why headers are collected into a single pipe). The exhaust pulse from one side pulls the other along via vacuum. Not quite the same thing that people such as Scotty Kilmer would refer to as "backpressure" which would be described as a certain amount of pressure feeding back into the exhaust that for whatever apparent reason is needed for best running of an engine. A good exhaust system will have tubing that is the appropriate size per the air volume being pumped out and will utilize minimal bends and constrictions so as to allow efficient flow through the exhaust while also having a crossover (if using dual pipes as in a Vette) to allow for proper exhaust scavenging. If a meaningful amount of backpressure is found in the system throughout the RPM range, something was likely not done right. This is as I understand it, anyway.
Scavenging is not back pressure. The idea that engines need back pressure is old 1960 technology. Engines need scavenging. Look at 180 degree headers or 8 into one headers. The jump in horsepower and torque is crazy. It's not because of a change in back pressure. It's because the exhaust becomes more efficient.
"Kitchen rebuild" I love it. I remember a Buddy years ago that rebuilt his Harley in his kitchen. I dropped in several months later, and I saw a black strip across the kitchen floor and a busted up lower kitchen cabinet! I said "WTF?" He replied "it's all good, runs great!" Lol... That's a kitchen rebuild! :-)
My dad did it in his Stude him explaining this to me as a kid taught me how length controls airflow in a intake or exhaust and determined powerband and horsepower and torque numbers
This is so cool! My dad always said I had to use collector extensions and I never totally understood why and now I do! Besides making your car sounds better they also help you go faster :D
Engine Masters did testing on header extension length. It matters. About an 18" extension was perfect for the engine they used. But your engine might need longer or shorter
on a mild built engine it don't matter much street headers are better then stock been proven over and over i want to race him with my 1400 dollar pu i am running just over 700 hp on just pump gas on a stroked 454 but i can add nitro 3 stage plus if u are running a automatic u need to build it makes a big different even with a stock engine like a 02xx trans which is a stock trans but built from factory good to 800 hp stock but easy to build to a 2000 or a 3000 hp trans it pays to know ur shit and how to get this stuff cheap or free like my case. i showed my engine builder the video of him flipping the pistons he laughed at him all he said was that engine will never last this guy builds engine for the big boys . i grew up with the bell family if u know who they are bell helmets and racing gear plus they build engines is what they started with
This is especially true when you stick to a single track. Changing to a different sea level and pressure can make some changes to this from one to another.
Might want to add a brace to that roll bar they tend to be floppy standing alone, just a small back bar stiffens it up alot and will stop it from flipping forward in a roll
You see this on tractor pulling engines with upright headers all the time. Perfectly tuned header length with great discoloration right at the very tip of the collector
I always wondered why 68-69 Hurst olds went with manifolds instead of headers... granted they were high flow manifolds on that 455, but perhaps they went with manifolds because it was still a street/strip car?
Good explanation on header extension. We always had the header extensions in the car for when we dropped the exhaust system at the track. The extension plain works... P.S. Your wife must be a saint......building engine in the kitchen. Since I've done that with a dirt bike, my wife is a good kid, too.
Hi Tony I live in Durban, South Africa and have a 67 Plymouth fury 2 four door sedan built at the Windsor plant in RHD of which I'm told is extremely rare car. I'm in need of a front windshield and the rubbers for both front and rear, plus various other items. Do you have any contacts that you can refer me to? Thanks a mil
Michael Haas one or two steps up from a coat hanger and jumper cables the flux core mig welder from harbor freight im pretty sure is what was used make the collector extensions .. Tony never said he was a amazing welder
Please do not use that roll bar. The mounting points are far too weak and there's no triangulation for strength. Donut Media did a video with a very similar bar that you can check, if interested. The bar will just fold over if the car rolls.
I still remember the procedure from the Mopar racing manual that I purchased from Mancini racing decades and decades ago. You put about it 30-36 in straight pipe at the end of the header and you put a line of paint on it. Wherever the burn mark ends on the paint you go 9-2 18 inches further and you chop it off that's the best exhaust you can do. Works wonders. You do not cut it at the burn mark. Go at least 9 in, I remember correctly 9 to 12 in was actually pretty good. You need all of that turbulent burn to stabilize and it takes at least 8in for that to happen.
I thought this was common knowledge. Guess not. Another valuable PSA from “The Tone” Uncle Tony Show! FM Stereo! Even though his cars can’t receive that shit.
I learned this a few years ago. Tried explaining it to others, but they thought I was talking out my arse. Hope others see this. Love your old school approach. Sick of LS or K swapping everything.
@@Bahlzeron I can't believe people can't comprehend that when you lose the backpressure ,which is what you wanna do, you gotta go thru tuning in your "fuel metering device" again, be it a carb or injection.
I've been telling people for years that street headers (especially shorty headers) are only good for making noise, but I got the same results... nobody listens. They put them on and pretend they're going faster!
@@MrTheHillfolk Well, that is the most common school of thought out there. It's like the old saying, "a lie can travel around the world before the truth can get his shoes tied". Most people know how to tune a carburetor, (or know how to replace jets and turn screws anyway) but they have no idea that exhaust even CAN be tuned. So when they hear, "tune the carb because the exhaust if flowing so much better now", it seems logical.
Just seen a video from dulcich, then uncle Tony's new vid in my feed, and it made me think of something... Uncle Tony and dulcich really need to get together on some type of build.. maybe another crop duster type project maybe even on an episode of Roadkill? Which the crop duster episode is one of if not my favorite episodes because it shows them doing it in the true hot-rodders fashion of using what you have laying around to put together a hot rod I'm not having to go out and act like you don't have a budget and buy all the nicest fanciest parts and throwing stuff in the scrap bin that alot of guys would really love to have...
Here in Michigan, we won't be racing for another 3 months. If ever again. Two weeks to flatten the Curve, turned into one year, of respect my authoritah!
Hey uncle Tony, ive got a question for you. Have you ever had to deal with the early emissions systems and fuel injection systems of 80s era cars. There's not a ton of advice for removing/working on those and I was curious if you had any advice, thanks!
Are you wanting to remove the emissions systems or repair them? EGR, AIR, EVAP, and catalytic converters can all be removed fairly easily, and usually much cheaper and easier than repairing them. As for the fuel injection systems, it varies greatly depending on what make and model car/truck you have. Most have ways to read codes or "flash" the codes on the check engine light, but the codes will be very generic, so don't just replace whatever part is setting a code. You need to look up diagnostic flow charts and wire diagrams, which is why it's hard to find info, because nobody has time to put that stuff in a chat room, comment section or forum. The best advice I can give you is to search sites like ebay and go to swap meets or auctions and try to find the specific shop manual for the car or truck that you have. Don't just go with generic Motor or Chilton manuals. If you have a Chevy, get a Chevy manual, if you have a Ford, get a Ford manual.
@@livewire2759 its an 83 ford crown vic, I have the manual and I've been looking at doing this for awhile, my problem is I have a very odd duckling setup, as its a very early model with a modified ford cfi, instead of the easier and more common efi system.
This reminds me of the time the exhaust pipe fell out of the flange holding it to the header in my Cavalier. Immediately, the sound changed to that of an old boat motor and I had no power whatsoever. Didn’t matter if the pedal was on the floor. I didn’t have the proper back pressure and it wasn’t scavenging properly. Once I welded the pipe back together it ran like no problem ever occurred
I always implement my secret plan when I need to weld something together....go down to the guy's house who welds for a living. It saves a lot of cussing and grinding.
I have a 383 stroker in my Chevy with automatic trans. Do these let's say, 12" collector extensions only work on an open exhaust to get some bottom end torque? Or a regular dual exhaust with Super Turbo mufflers also help?
UNCLE TONY, Please for THE LOVE OF ALL OF US WHO WATCH YOU, DO NOT USE THAT “ROLL BAR” THAT THINGS A DEATH SENTENCE!!!!! I’m not joking! You can find plenty of write ups, and photos of cars that have been wreck where they’re simple folded over the back of the seat and would have broken necks
How about free power. Drop your engine starting line temp to ambient air temp, or as close as you can get it. I told a guy to try it on a Mustang fox body, 306, C4, turning ~7.08 1/8th, he dropped his temp from 160 to ~100° after burnout, instant 6.85. He was jumping up and down when he got the time slip. Hard to do in competition, to get it cooled off.
I would point out that many engines like longer collectors but not all do. In my experience and observations mopars, fords, and pontiacs like extensions as do some big block chevys but small block chevys don't really care. I had a supercharged sbc and tried all different lengths header extensions and the car didn't change ET in the 1/4 mile noticeably.
Cheap parts Yes! My Suzuki Sidekick is like that to. $20.00 or less for lots of it. Fuel pump, about $30.00. A couple of buddies offered to help me push it home. I changed it myself. Two other guys that paid a grand wouldn't talk to me about it.
Late in the 70's we( friends and I) Made a sliding collector, It was held on with springs. . Then paint with old paint.. Burn your paint like out. Make three sets.. +4, +6, +8... Easy cheap, fast.. Best of all it makes you look good,,
The ENTIRE POINT of Pipemax IS to save the end user time & money! As long as the data input is accurate, Pipemax gives EXTREMELY accurate and thorough data! It will also tell you the primary lengths, diameters and steps (if needed) to make max power. Not to mention the collector diameter, choke and even taper! Tony is covering one tiny facet of exhaust tuning. Part of the reason modern cars perform so incredibly well is because of computer modeling. Even something as simple as a wideband o2 sensor can seperate a powerful, long lasting build from a farting and recalcitrant dog. To have the tech available for as little as $150 and not run one in 2021 boggles the mind! Plug reading is a great tool but you aren't going to do plug cuts at 100 mph on the highway and even on the track, if you aren't getting towed to the pits, your plug cut at the stripe will be ruined by the next few minutes of slow running and idle. I like Tony, but a good portion of what he says sounds smart to people that really don't know much about building and tuning cars.
So, I know people will likely laugh at me for saying this, but now I know why my buddy's 1993 Acura Integra B18A1 makes so much bottom end torque compared to when it was stock. The 4 into 1 header we installed, on 3 different engines now, increased low end torque to the point where in 1st gear, he could just ease off the clutch in 1st gear and it just goes with almost no engine bog. With 12.5:1 compression and a ported Integra GS-R head, he can get the car moving with a bit of bogging in 4th gear now. The header has a long collector on it that is 2.5 inches and is mated to a 2.5 inch cat back exhaust. And we know the header alone made a huge difference, when he bought his 1992 Integra, the exhaust on his current 1993 Integra came off that car, and when the 1992 was first bought, it was the stock manifold connected to the exhaust, and we swapped in the header and it was like a completely different car. I will have to show him this video to help him understand better why the car picked up so much torque everywhere.
Wow, I posted something about this on Facebook a week or so ago. I was telling the guys at the shop that more often than not the crossover tube is not in the right place. I said that the car needs to be run with a stripe from a Tyre crayon and see where it burns off to, and that's where the crossover belongs... Blank stares. Heck I am the old man at the shop...
If you are watching this and you haven't read "4 Stroke performance Tuning"-A Graham Bell then you should absolutely get a copy..primary/secondary pipe math is easy...you can make a cheap set of headers work perfectly by simply correcting the tune for running open pipe.
With my full exhaust system I put the crossover at the end of where the grease pencil burnt off❤😊. It made the difference between being raspy, and being able to do donuts😂
Ok if you need more low end torque with an automatic, stands to reason the engine needs to be built for it. Would that fact alone give an advantage to a manual?
So what I'm doing is running long tube headers with 3 inch exhaust to the mufflers then running 2.5 behind the mufflers on a 390 fe with low riser heads and a c6 with stock converter on a 69 ford B body
Just need some sort of back pressure to prevent backflow of the exhaust gases. That's the most simplified explanation I can come up with. There has to be a minimum length of exhaust to achieve sufficient back pressure to keep the positive flow. The minimum required exhaust length is where the maximum flow can be achieved.
2.5" manifold to a 3" out law cat back. Lost some power but with tune it worked out. Will I need a special tune to run 3" collector and high flow cats to gain, or will I lose speed? Great info. We just painted the exhaust and where it stopped we cut. Made quick connect for street
No hate, but that "rollbar" isn't a rollbar, its a style bar. Lookup what happens to those style bars in a rollover crash and you'll see what I mean (they fold over like a mousetrap), Stay Safe Out There!
That isn’t a Miata roll bar. It’s a “style bar” and it makes the car LESS safe. It offers zero protection and the bar will just fold and hit you in the head.
And this might be kind of stupid but you're saying make it longer 4 torque but they say that long tube headers or 4 high RPM and shorty headers AR for torque and mid-length are supposedly somewhat all around
First time I've seen anyone address the back half of the headers - the collector - in 40 years. I was wondering if anyone even remembered this vital area of information anymore. Looking at the way cars get put together would suggest that no one does. I was delighted to see Uncle Tony address this. Uncle Tony, you're The Boss. P.S. As the exhaust shock pulse travels down the primary into the collector, it sees a pressure differential. When it reaches the open end of the collector, it encounters an "infinite mass", the atmosphere. This acts as a wall that the shock pulse reflects off of and travels back up the header tubes to the cylinder. (The reducer on the end of your collector connecting your exhaust pipe does the same thing.) Ideally it then again reverses and heads back down the header, further scavenging exhaust gases from the cylinder, and if your valve timing is right, assisting to start the new air fuel charge moving toward the cylinder. This is why collector length helps "tune" the header to the motor's rpm band, as it controls the time it takes for the shock pulse to make one round trip. (This is especially important on some cheap aftermarket headers with primary tubes that are too short.) It's not so much about "smoothing out the turbulence" as the shock wave reaches the collector before the new blast of exhaust gases does. We used to say, "If you are running an automatic, add an extra 3" - 4" inches beyond the point where the grease mark burns off to, as your starting point for tuning your header. Typical collector lengths: manuals - 14 - 18 inches. Automatics: 16 - 22 inches. Depends on cu/in & car weight.
Wow thanks for the great info im working on my 68 chevelle here in Pensacola Florida trying to figure out the loudest and best exshust right now I just have street headers on it so I was wanting xpipe with boom tubes coming off rear tires never gave much thought into the collectors man I need you to build me a exshust 😆
Engine masters did a cool test on collector extensions and if I remember right 12 or 18 was best but surprising how much a few inches made. Ol lady said the same😛
Uncle Tony, Can you make a video on the whys and wherefores of how header tube size and collector diameters effect an engine's RPM/torque range of various sizes of engines?
Hey tony what's your option on the 90s chrysler 318 better known as the 5.2 magnum are these hot or not and do they share all that much with there predecessor ?
no no no no no pulling the exhaust off your car will kill low end. its all about the camshaft factory camshafts will lose power with the manifold pulled off
Thx UT. Very on point details over some of "the little things". It reminds people that those little things are extremely important to the overall performance of their build. Well put
I was listening to one of the videos on the history of the roadrunner evolving from the belvedere it was very interesting because my first muscle car was a 1967 post window 426 hemi belvedere. And I had sold it to my brother to move South to get a job from Michigan. When I got to Virginia I found a 1972 GTX roadrunner grab her car I bought it for $900 and I got a lot of trouble with the police and I ended up selling it and since then I have had six satellites in roadrunners of the 71 and 72 era now I have a 1971 roadrunner which I'm finding out was a true butterscotch GTX car. It's a hot rod not matching numbers 440 and I enjoy it and every time I've gone to Curtis challengers dusters dart I always go back to the 7172 body style I love the 72 grill I wish I could find one I'm always in search of the grill and parts I know they're pricey but it's worth the money. I am now getting ready to take this 1971 roadrunner a memorial Day run. This car also has been driven by curl back Daisy of The dukes of hazzards and there's a history with her in this car also.
I am a body man by trade and a airbrush artist I do some engine work I tune and do a lot of different ignition work and carburetor work I have friends that build hemis and Big blocks they help me on engine work I help them on body work and I do not like to half ass body work. I find Tony has very good information that does help a lot of people that don't understand the mechanics of cars. After this post I'm going to find a 1971 383 and I want to build it mild to put in another roadrunner or my 96 Dakota. It will have a five-speed manual transmission. I enjoy watching these videos I don't think my girlfriend enjoys me watching so many but she'll be all right with it. When I took her for a ride in my 71 roadrunner her eyes got big and she just held on to the seat. The last time the car was taken out and Street trim it turned 11:20 s
![NOSFERATU - Official Trailer [HD] - Only In Theaters December 25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nulvWqYUM8k/mqdefault.jpg)
Not many of the old grey beards around anymore its a lost art Old Tony Really knows the art. I thought I was the only one left.
That's NOT gray, It's Chrome!
I got lucky and found a slant six 225 in a 1987 dodge ram d100 with only 65,000 original miles
I was born in 76' thank goodness I got to spend 95'&1996 helping Micky Holmes in his fully tooled machine shop in his barn....
He built and operated his machine shop mostly so he could keep his boy on the dirt track... While we were building 390s and 460s Micky filled my head with stories of how he did things back in the day when he had just got back from fighting a war in France. I can imagine how my life would have turned out if it were not for a chance introduction with micky and he told a 19 yr old kid to come back anytime. That goofy kid came back everyday until his was with cancer was finally over...
They a few of us young beards around to that have the knowledge because we grew up around and learned from grey beards like you all lol. Hotrodding It's still alive and well my friend
Fear not Old Head. There’s more of us in the making!
Thank you for not bringing up “back pressure”.
He covered that already. I think the vid was titled "The BS about backpressure".
Why ? Back pressure has a big play on things. Trust me. I’m 30 yrs old now still have my first car. My ‘72 Vette 350 lt1 4spd. When I was 16 I put a 2.5 inch exhaust on it. Straight back, each their own pipe coming from the manifolds no X or H in the middle. Now yeah she sounded good. That grumble.. the pops and bangs were worth it on decel alone. But I lost some down low punch. I could literally feel the difference...
oh and the gas mileage went down.. that was noticeable too cus that 4 barrel quadrajet carb was thirsty already. And I barely knew squat about anything back then car wise. So yeah. Back pressure matters bruv. 2.5 inch exhaust an up for big blocks. Keep it 2 and 1/4 or less for small blocks. Real shit I’ve done the tests and have the seat time. If you believe me or not is up to you. I mean I prob wouldn’t believe my dumbass but it’s the truth from my experience.
@@beezy7412 what you experienced makes absolute sense but was due to a lack of proper exhaust scavenging, not backpressure. The crossover is what provides scavenging between two pipes which is why vehicles rarely run truly separate exhaust pipes (and why headers are collected into a single pipe). The exhaust pulse from one side pulls the other along via vacuum. Not quite the same thing that people such as Scotty Kilmer would refer to as "backpressure" which would be described as a certain amount of pressure feeding back into the exhaust that for whatever apparent reason is needed for best running of an engine.
A good exhaust system will have tubing that is the appropriate size per the air volume being pumped out and will utilize minimal bends and constrictions so as to allow efficient flow through the exhaust while also having a crossover (if using dual pipes as in a Vette) to allow for proper exhaust scavenging. If a meaningful amount of backpressure is found in the system throughout the RPM range, something was likely not done right.
This is as I understand it, anyway.
@@beezy7412 Also, damn good job managing a 72 Vette as your first car. Hope to have one myself one day.
Scavenging is not back pressure. The idea that engines need back pressure is old 1960 technology. Engines need scavenging. Look at 180 degree headers or 8 into one headers. The jump in horsepower and torque is crazy. It's not because of a change in back pressure. It's because the exhaust becomes more efficient.
"Kitchen rebuild" I love it. I remember a Buddy years ago that rebuilt his Harley in his kitchen. I dropped in several months later, and I saw a black strip across the kitchen floor and a busted up lower kitchen cabinet! I said "WTF?" He replied "it's all good, runs great!" Lol... That's a kitchen rebuild! :-)
Very cool video UTG...for those that didn't see his" headers explained" video a year ago, check it out.
We did the slid tube thing back in the 60s and it WORKED great,I could gain 2tenths in just a few minutes!!!!
My dad did it in his Stude him explaining this to me as a kid taught me how length controls airflow in a intake or exhaust and determined powerband and horsepower and torque numbers
Dad used Super Traps on on his Air-Cooled VW Engines.
This is so cool! My dad always said I had to use collector extensions and I never totally understood why and now I do! Besides making your car sounds better they also help you go faster :D
Engine Masters did testing on header extension length. It matters. About an 18" extension was perfect for the engine they used. But your engine might need longer or shorter
on a mild built engine it don't matter much street headers are better then stock been proven over and over i want to race him with my 1400 dollar pu i am running just over 700 hp on just pump gas on a stroked 454 but i can add nitro 3 stage plus if u are running a automatic u need to build it makes a big different even with a stock engine like a 02xx trans which is a stock trans but built from factory good to 800 hp stock but easy to build to a 2000 or a 3000 hp trans it pays to know ur shit and how to get this stuff cheap or free like my case. i showed my engine builder the video of him flipping the pistons he laughed at him all he said was that engine will never last this guy builds engine for the big boys . i grew up with the bell family if u know who they are bell helmets and racing gear plus they build engines is what they started with
the best way is to paint each pipe and where the paint stops burning off is where you cut it off
This is especially true when you stick to a single track. Changing to a different sea level and pressure can make some changes to this from one to another.
Might want to add a brace to that roll bar they tend to be floppy standing alone, just a small back bar stiffens it up alot and will stop it from flipping forward in a roll
Always interesting and informative. Thank you Uncle Tony
it would be cool if you can tell us someday the main difference between a street (stock)and racing mopar
greats from The Netherlands
I'm a chemical engineer and deal with fluids moving through pipes everyday. Couldn't have explained the flow any better myself.
You see this on tractor pulling engines with upright headers all the time. Perfectly tuned header length with great discoloration right at the very tip of the collector
I always wondered why 68-69 Hurst olds went with manifolds instead of headers... granted they were high flow manifolds on that 455, but perhaps they went with manifolds because it was still a street/strip car?
I majored in “High” science in high school. The class was in the parking lot....lol
Hey, me too 😁
Did you take the class in CAD (cardboard aided design), I have heard it is really useful
Was your GPA 4.20. . . . .
Hahaha. I think i passed that class too!. Not sure, I forgot
Good explanation on header extension. We always had the header extensions in the car for when we dropped the exhaust system at the track. The extension plain works... P.S. Your wife must be a saint......building engine in the kitchen. Since I've done that with a dirt bike, my wife is a good kid, too.
0:45
That “roll bar” is cheap trash that’s about as stiff as exhaust pipe
It’s a show bar
Not a real one
That pos won't do anything to help in a crash
Yea that’s a joke for crash safety. It’s all show. Trying to pretend that your fast.
@@FishFind3000 don't need to be fast to roll over.
There’s actually a video where a guy drops a Miata upside down on one of these. He flipped his forklift in the first attempt, it was great!
Yeah it was also $50, if you expect a quality part your a fool. I don't think he expects it to work, it just looks cool
Nice
Hi Tony I live in Durban, South Africa and have a 67 Plymouth fury 2 four door sedan built at the Windsor plant in RHD of which I'm told is extremely rare car.
I'm in need of a front windshield and the rubbers for both front and rear, plus various other items.
Do you have any contacts that you can refer me to?
Thanks a mil
I want to know who the 6 thumbs down people are. What's not to like about Uncle Tony?
TROLLS
If ya don't have them, you're doing something wrong!
@@douganderson7002 Sleep in the doghouse last night or just trolling?
Damn UT!! Want me to come down there and show you how to throw down a weld? LOL. That looks like it was welded with a coat hanger and jumper cables.
100%
Hey, that's how I kept my rambler running in the 1970'S, oh yeah bailing wire and bars leak too.
Michael Haas one or two steps up from a coat hanger and jumper cables the flux core mig welder from harbor freight im pretty sure is what was used make the collector extensions .. Tony never said he was a amazing welder
Looks like chewing gum
Please do not use that roll bar. The mounting points are far too weak and there's no triangulation for strength. Donut Media did a video with a very similar bar that you can check, if interested. The bar will just fold over if the car rolls.
I still remember the procedure from the Mopar racing manual that I purchased from Mancini racing decades and decades ago. You put about it 30-36 in straight pipe at the end of the header and you put a line of paint on it. Wherever the burn mark ends on the paint you go 9-2 18 inches further and you chop it off that's the best exhaust you can do. Works wonders. You do not cut it at the burn mark. Go at least 9 in, I remember correctly 9 to 12 in was actually pretty good. You need all of that turbulent burn to stabilize and it takes at least 8in for that to happen.
Nick's Garage is doing a series on complete assembly of a 440. I heard his wife will not let him do it in their kitchen. HAHA!!!
Header pipes is what I ran back in the day. Just go to western auto and get The glass pack cherry bombs with the header pipe & flange..
How much HP will header turndowns lose? is there a difference between slant and straight cuts?
I am just happy if the headers don't leak lol
I thought this was common knowledge. Guess not. Another valuable PSA from “The Tone” Uncle Tony Show! FM Stereo! Even though his cars can’t receive that shit.
I learned this a few years ago. Tried explaining it to others, but they thought I was talking out my arse. Hope others see this. Love your old school approach. Sick of LS or K swapping everything.
Yeah most morons will argue "because no backpressure!"
Backpressure is created by a restrictive exhaust, which kills performance.
@@Bahlzeron I can't believe people can't comprehend that when you lose the backpressure ,which is what you wanna do, you gotta go thru tuning in your "fuel metering device" again, be it a carb or injection.
I've been telling people for years that street headers (especially shorty headers) are only good for making noise, but I got the same results... nobody listens. They put them on and pretend they're going faster!
@@MrTheHillfolk Well, that is the most common school of thought out there. It's like the old saying, "a lie can travel around the world before the truth can get his shoes tied". Most people know how to tune a carburetor, (or know how to replace jets and turn screws anyway) but they have no idea that exhaust even CAN be tuned. So when they hear, "tune the carb because the exhaust if flowing so much better now", it seems logical.
Just seen a video from dulcich, then uncle Tony's new vid in my feed, and it made me think of something... Uncle Tony and dulcich really need to get together on some type of build.. maybe another crop duster type project maybe even on an episode of Roadkill? Which the crop duster episode is one of if not my favorite episodes because it shows them doing it in the true hot-rodders fashion of using what you have laying around to put together a hot rod I'm not having to go out and act like you don't have a budget and buy all the nicest fanciest parts and throwing stuff in the scrap bin that alot of guys would really love to have...
Beautiful channel and cars...greetings from Europe
Here in Michigan, we won't be racing for another 3 months. If ever again. Two weeks to flatten the Curve, turned into one year, of respect my authoritah!
Whitmer owes me a year of my life back
You can’t beat the knowledge of the Old Dogs. Thanks for the wisdom.
Good job God bless yous
DO NOT USE THAT ROLL BAR. ABSOLUTELY USELESS. PLEASE THROW IT AWAY.
Hey uncle Tony, ive got a question for you. Have you ever had to deal with the early emissions systems and fuel injection systems of 80s era cars. There's not a ton of advice for removing/working on those and I was curious if you had any advice, thanks!
Good Question for Wednesday night live stream.. if not than Sunday.. 🖒
Are you wanting to remove the emissions systems or repair them? EGR, AIR, EVAP, and catalytic converters can all be removed fairly easily, and usually much cheaper and easier than repairing them. As for the fuel injection systems, it varies greatly depending on what make and model car/truck you have. Most have ways to read codes or "flash" the codes on the check engine light, but the codes will be very generic, so don't just replace whatever part is setting a code. You need to look up diagnostic flow charts and wire diagrams, which is why it's hard to find info, because nobody has time to put that stuff in a chat room, comment section or forum. The best advice I can give you is to search sites like ebay and go to swap meets or auctions and try to find the specific shop manual for the car or truck that you have. Don't just go with generic Motor or Chilton manuals. If you have a Chevy, get a Chevy manual, if you have a Ford, get a Ford manual.
@@livewire2759 its an 83 ford crown vic, I have the manual and I've been looking at doing this for awhile, my problem is I have a very odd duckling setup, as its a very early model with a modified ford cfi, instead of the easier and more common efi system.
@@honeybear2504 I see... well, I'm a GM tech, so you already know more about that car than I do!
Style bar!!!???🤨
When you say 318 event. Is it only for LA engines or are L engines going to be there too.
I'm curious too! I gotta find someone videoing this said event. Seems right up my ally! But a long way to go if its not what I think it is.
Did you ever play with a Verticam or Rhodes lifters ?
This reminds me of the time the exhaust pipe fell out of the flange holding it to the header in my Cavalier. Immediately, the sound changed to that of an old boat motor and I had no power whatsoever. Didn’t matter if the pedal was on the floor.
I didn’t have the proper back pressure and it wasn’t scavenging properly. Once I welded the pipe back together it ran like no problem ever occurred
I gotta give you shit...how does someone that has been fabbing up stuff for so long, weld as bad as me ?
I always implement my secret plan when I need to weld something together....go down to the guy's house who welds for a living. It saves a lot of cussing and grinding.
I need some of the stuff you have. I'm kidding I totally admire your enthusiasm you the best UT!!!
Must be that lack of back pressure 🥴
That flux welder you recommended from harbor freight during Sunday night live works like a charm! Thanks!
I used the grease pencil trick to find the home for a crossover on my exhaust..seemed to work.. cut outs just aft of it on a hot 350 4 speed
I have a 383 stroker in my Chevy with automatic trans.
Do these let's say, 12" collector extensions only work on an open exhaust to get some bottom end torque? Or a regular dual exhaust with Super Turbo mufflers also help?
Good stuff.Just woundering what happend to lamb chop.!
Ive been wondering the same thing
I wonder how many vintage engine blocks across the South were lost to ice crackin' em' open.
Oooooohh. Scary thought
Freeze plugs are suppose to keep that from happening.😎
UNCLE TONY, Please for THE LOVE OF ALL OF US WHO WATCH YOU, DO NOT USE THAT “ROLL BAR” THAT THINGS A DEATH SENTENCE!!!!! I’m not joking! You can find plenty of write ups, and photos of cars that have been wreck where they’re simple folded over the back of the seat and would have broken necks
We call those extensions torque tubes
Thanks for the info Boss, always Welcome..
Plan Z!!
How about free power. Drop your engine starting line temp to ambient air temp, or as close as you can get it. I told a guy to try it on a Mustang fox body, 306, C4, turning ~7.08 1/8th, he dropped his temp from 160 to ~100° after burnout, instant 6.85. He was jumping up and down when he got the time slip. Hard to do in competition, to get it cooled off.
It went from like 30f below to over 45f above now. I agree. I am walking in a swamp at my garage
We went from -20 4 days ago to 65 today. My backyard is a swamp... dogs are gonna need baths tonight... LOL
I would point out that many engines like longer collectors but not all do. In my experience and observations mopars, fords, and pontiacs like extensions as do some big block chevys but small block chevys don't really care. I had a supercharged sbc and tried all different lengths header extensions and the car didn't change ET in the 1/4 mile noticeably.
You make it sound like you know what your talking about.
This is why I am subscribed to this channel!
Cheap parts Yes! My Suzuki Sidekick is like that to. $20.00 or less for lots of it. Fuel pump, about $30.00. A couple of buddies offered to help me push it home. I changed it myself. Two other guys that paid a grand wouldn't talk to me about it.
Late in the 70's we( friends and I) Made a sliding collector, It was held on with springs. . Then paint with old paint.. Burn your paint like out. Make three sets.. +4, +6, +8... Easy cheap, fast.. Best of all it makes you look good,,
The ENTIRE POINT of Pipemax IS to save the end user time & money! As long as the data input is accurate, Pipemax gives EXTREMELY accurate and thorough data! It will also tell you the primary lengths, diameters and steps (if needed) to make max power. Not to mention the collector diameter, choke and even taper! Tony is covering one tiny facet of exhaust tuning.
Part of the reason modern cars perform so incredibly well is because of computer modeling. Even something as simple as a wideband o2 sensor can seperate a powerful, long lasting build from a farting and recalcitrant dog. To have the tech available for as little as $150 and not run one in 2021 boggles the mind!
Plug reading is a great tool but you aren't going to do plug cuts at 100 mph on the highway and even on the track, if you aren't getting towed to the pits, your plug cut at the stripe will be ruined by the next few minutes of slow running and idle.
I like Tony, but a good portion of what he says sounds smart to people that really don't know much about building and tuning cars.
So, I know people will likely laugh at me for saying this, but now I know why my buddy's 1993 Acura Integra B18A1 makes so much bottom end torque compared to when it was stock. The 4 into 1 header we installed, on 3 different engines now, increased low end torque to the point where in 1st gear, he could just ease off the clutch in 1st gear and it just goes with almost no engine bog. With 12.5:1 compression and a ported Integra GS-R head, he can get the car moving with a bit of bogging in 4th gear now. The header has a long collector on it that is 2.5 inches and is mated to a 2.5 inch cat back exhaust. And we know the header alone made a huge difference, when he bought his 1992 Integra, the exhaust on his current 1993 Integra came off that car, and when the 1992 was first bought, it was the stock manifold connected to the exhaust, and we swapped in the header and it was like a completely different car. I will have to show him this video to help him understand better why the car picked up so much torque everywhere.
Wow, I posted something about this on Facebook a week or so ago. I was telling the guys at the shop that more often than not the crossover tube is not in the right place. I said that the car needs to be run with a stripe from a Tyre crayon and see where it burns off to, and that's where the crossover belongs... Blank stares. Heck I am the old man at the shop...
If you are watching this and you haven't read "4 Stroke performance Tuning"-A Graham Bell then you should absolutely get a copy..primary/secondary pipe math is easy...you can make a cheap set of headers work perfectly by simply correcting the tune for running open pipe.
With my full exhaust system I put the crossover at the end of where the grease pencil burnt off❤😊. It made the difference between being raspy, and being able to do donuts😂
Ok if you need more low end torque with an automatic, stands to reason the engine needs to be built for it. Would that fact alone give an advantage to a manual?
So what I'm doing is running long tube headers with 3 inch exhaust to the mufflers then running 2.5 behind the mufflers on a 390 fe with low riser heads and a c6 with stock converter on a 69 ford B body
Just need some sort of back pressure to prevent backflow of the exhaust gases. That's the most simplified explanation I can come up with. There has to be a minimum length of exhaust to achieve sufficient back pressure to keep the positive flow. The minimum required exhaust length is where the maximum flow can be achieved.
2.5" manifold to a 3" out law cat back. Lost some power but with tune it worked out. Will I need a special tune to run 3" collector and high flow cats to gain, or will I lose speed? Great info. We just painted the exhaust and where it stopped we cut. Made quick connect for street
Bottle Rocket IS NOT READY..IT HAS NO BOTTLE...YOUR HIGH..SCIENCE..
No hate, but that "rollbar" isn't a rollbar, its a style bar. Lookup what happens to those style bars in a rollover crash and you'll see what I mean (they fold over like a mousetrap), Stay Safe Out There!
That isn’t a Miata roll bar. It’s a “style bar” and it makes the car LESS safe. It offers zero protection and the bar will just fold and hit you in the head.
And this might be kind of stupid but you're saying make it longer 4 torque but they say that long tube headers or 4 high RPM and shorty headers AR for torque and mid-length are supposedly somewhat all around
I propose calling the ends you are talking about "the collection agency." It will make folks say, "What?!"
First time I've seen anyone address the back half of the headers - the collector - in 40 years. I was wondering if anyone even remembered this vital area of information anymore. Looking at the way cars get put together would suggest that no one does. I was delighted to see Uncle Tony address this. Uncle Tony, you're The Boss.
P.S. As the exhaust shock pulse travels down the primary into the collector, it sees a pressure differential. When it reaches the open end of the collector, it encounters an "infinite mass", the atmosphere. This acts as a wall that the shock pulse reflects off of and travels back up the header tubes to the cylinder. (The reducer on the end of your collector connecting your exhaust pipe does the same thing.) Ideally it then again reverses and heads back down the header, further scavenging exhaust gases from the cylinder, and if your valve timing is right, assisting to start the new air fuel charge moving toward the cylinder.
This is why collector length helps "tune" the header to the motor's rpm band, as it controls the time it takes for the shock pulse to make one round trip. (This is especially important on some cheap aftermarket headers with primary tubes that are too short.) It's not so much about "smoothing out the turbulence" as the shock wave reaches the collector before the new blast of exhaust gases does.
We used to say, "If you are running an automatic, add an extra 3" - 4" inches beyond the point where the grease mark burns off to, as your starting point for tuning your header.
Typical collector lengths: manuals - 14 - 18 inches. Automatics: 16 - 22 inches. Depends on cu/in & car weight.
Hey Tony my dad use to have 1965 Monaco’s and Polaris s with the 318 what do you think of those.?
Wow thanks for the great info im working on my 68 chevelle here in Pensacola Florida trying to figure out the loudest and best exshust right now I just have street headers on it so I was wanting xpipe with boom tubes coming off rear tires never gave much thought into the collectors man I need you to build me a exshust 😆
Engine masters did a cool test on collector extensions and if I remember right 12 or 18 was best but surprising how much a few inches made. Ol lady said the same😛
Uncle Tony,
Can you make a video on the whys and wherefores of how header tube size and collector diameters effect an engine's RPM/torque range of various sizes of engines?
That would be hugely helpful.
Just thinking out loud here.... What about tapering the size of the collector- to increase velocity or at least not lose any????
Wait ...
Did Uncle Tony just use "band clamp" and "high science" in the same sentence?
Wow, an old guy told me, for an old dirt track car, to paint the exh pipe and cut it off where the paint stopped burning wasn't that far off the mark.
Nate and Jeremiah selling me soyboy furnishings before I watch a real man show. Interesting.
Hey tony what's your option on the 90s chrysler 318 better known as the 5.2 magnum are these hot or not and do they share all that much with there predecessor ?
no no no no no pulling the exhaust off your car will kill low end. its all about the camshaft factory camshafts will lose power with the manifold pulled off
Cool video thank for sharing all those year's of experience.and nolige
Automotive street science! This guy is the best! Knowledge and truth through experiencing. Thank you!!!
Very cool, reflects the same basic ideas that Engine Masters got on the episode they did on collectors!
band clamp? watch for flying pipes behind UT in the water box.
Lol, I got your HighScience rt here, costya 10/g. Stickiest of tha iKKie
CULT LEADER UTG!!!
Header extentions are almost always best at 18inches. Dino proven many times
Your videos are great, always get something out of it
Snowing in ct AGAIN
Yo be careful wuth the 50$ rollbar for tge miata. Donut did a video about how unsafe those are
You know what im up for the miata project. Get it driving and go chuck it about they are hilarious
I'm sorry but that art is dead uncle Tony your so wrong don't drag Nikki in your silliness no more
Thx UT. Very on point details over some of "the little things". It reminds people that those little things are extremely important to the overall performance of their build. Well put
I learned something new about tuning from uncle tony! now your just showing off. thanks for the video!
I was listening to one of the videos on the history of the roadrunner evolving from the belvedere it was very interesting because my first muscle car was a 1967 post window 426 hemi belvedere. And I had sold it to my brother to move South to get a job from Michigan. When I got to Virginia I found a 1972 GTX roadrunner grab her car I bought it for $900 and I got a lot of trouble with the police and I ended up selling it and since then I have had six satellites in roadrunners of the 71 and 72 era now I have a 1971 roadrunner which I'm finding out was a true butterscotch GTX car. It's a hot rod not matching numbers 440 and I enjoy it and every time I've gone to Curtis challengers dusters dart I always go back to the 7172 body style I love the 72 grill I wish I could find one I'm always in search of the grill and parts I know they're pricey but it's worth the money. I am now getting ready to take this 1971 roadrunner a memorial Day run. This car also has been driven by curl back Daisy of The dukes of hazzards and there's a history with her in this car also.
I am a body man by trade and a airbrush artist I do some engine work I tune and do a lot of different ignition work and carburetor work I have friends that build hemis and Big blocks they help me on engine work I help them on body work and I do not like to half ass body work. I find Tony has very good information that does help a lot of people that don't understand the mechanics of cars. After this post I'm going to find a 1971 383 and I want to build it mild to put in another roadrunner or my 96 Dakota. It will have a five-speed manual transmission. I enjoy watching these videos I don't think my girlfriend enjoys me watching so many but she'll be all right with it. When I took her for a ride in my 71 roadrunner her eyes got big and she just held on to the seat. The last time the car was taken out and Street trim it turned 11:20 s
Is there any benefit in using a merge collector with a full exhaust system?