My '79 T-bird is original. No LED's, no bluetooth, no electric fan, etc. AM/FM stereo w/ cassette player. It takes me back to a world I once knew, a world we would like to go back to.😎
I may have mentioned this in Tonys comments before but I had a 1974 Impala that was all stock with the 400 SB... I swapped it's manual fan for a clutch driven one... The good part was you could barely hear the engine running. The bad part is that you could barely hear the engine running, so I ruined my flywheel trying to start it with it already running. It happened a lot 😳 That's one of my old cars that I miss the most.
Yeah, I agree, I want to relive the full 60’s experience, which in my case involves really heavy manual steering, 10” drum brakes and 7.75x14 bias plys, I wouldn’t have it any other way.
@@jamesblair9614 You had to know how to steer a manual steering car or truck. As long as you were rolling ever so slightly it was easy to turn the steering wheel. 😁 I was taught how to back in and parallel park a semi in an early 1960s Mack that had no power steering. And if she wasn't rolling at least a little bit, you weren't turning that wheel. 😏
The latest trend in cars is to have a fully digital dash... it's literally just a screen with gauge graphics drawn on it. Me personally, I like and prefer the older fully analog gauges. The other trend (and in actuality probably the bigger sin because it impacts usability) is to use a screen to control functions of the car such as your heating and cooling as well as radio control. There's just some things that will always work better as a physical button, but many designers don't really seem to get that these days as they try to make the cars like an iphone.
This isn't just a problem with cars, it applies to literally every consumer product with electronics. Everything needs to have a touchscreen because that's what the average user is accustomed to. I wouldn't be surprised if buttons and switches completely go extinct within my lifetime.
@@danebeck7900God, I hope not! The problem with all this is that a screen currently doesn't provide any sort of tactile clues as to what you're actually pressing so with a screen you at least need to glance at it to make sure you're hitting the right thing... not ideal in a moving vehicle. The other issue with a lot of modern vehicles is the physical buttons they do have, often get crammed together in a small space. I find this especially annoying with cruise control when the buttons are buried amongst a bunch of other buttons that essentially feel the same in the dark. My previous daily was a Mazda that had textures on the different cruise buttons and they were separated from other buttons making it easier to work the cruise at night without having to see them. I miss that particular aspect from that car. Sometimes simpler is actually better. I'm ok with most of the less often accessed things being controlled or settable from the screen, there's just certain frequently used functions that work better (provide a better user experience) when they have a physical button. As with most things, there's a balance to such things.
It's not really about designers being incapable or users being used to screens. Designers still love mid-century and regularly revert to 50-70 in their work. Times change, though, some things become cheaper, some become more expensive. Based on my knowledge of various household appliances, which i assume you can extrapolate to anything with simple electronics in it, - analogue has become very expensive. Touch screens are not only produced in bulk, they also "just work" - there's nothing behind them, no switches, no intricate gears or anything that requires skilled manual labor and calibration. It's a screen, a programmable controller and a bunch of wires. Those of us born in 70's, 80's and 90's still remember how we first got that CD player, or LCD TV or a microwave with touch controls - back then it was top of the line, more expensive than anything analogue, but now it's the other way around, we just can't get used to it.
I prefer to add sound deadening to my cars because they cheap out on that from the factory. Maybe extra muffler/resonator if there is space underneath. Im not even old.
I'm sort of the same way. Though I'm fine with adding a 5 speed, electric fans, upgrading the brakes and modifying the og radio to handle Bluetooh or an aux adapter. But nothing more.
Worst/most common offenders to me, are the almost mandatory lowering, and the big wheels(anything bigger than 16" for me)with rubber band tires. Modernizing the dash and seats would be next on the list...
This big wheel is also my least favourite “upgrade” I know it’s personal taste but far out …sometimes people can make 18” work but, big jump from 15” but man 20” or 22” is just never going to sit right here.
Couldn't agree more about the modern gauges not necessarily being the right choice Tony. I'm just a handful of years younger than you, and was in High School in the early 80's up here in Canada. Our high school was rare, as we had a 3 or 4 bay (can't recall for sure) shop/garage and our school was mainstream, not vocational, so I was fortunate to have auto class with the absolute best shop teacher ever, you remind me so much of him. He once asked our class - "you're buying a new car, you have the choice of carburetor of fuel injection, what do you choose. Poor Myles put his hand up and said "FUEL INJECTION!" with authority. Teacher ponders for a second, asks "why?". Myles replies with pride, thinking teacher is going to agree, "It's the thing of the 80's". Teacher's mic-drop response, "So is AIDS, do you want that too?" You nailed it, have a reason/purpose for the changes you consider, and not just because it's the thing of the week. Sorry, gotta go outside and flip my air cleaner back to right side up after seeing your video
Well from an emissions point of view there is no contest. But I am pretty convinced that most aftermarket EFI conversions are only marginally better than the factory carburettor, often worse. And I’m someone that designs and tunes EFI systems for some of those OEMs.
So ,We Got An Air Cleaner Flipper Here ,OMG Dads 455 Buick LaSabre Would Come Alive With That Mod ,Till I Got An Azz Chewing For Flipping It Over ,Good Times !!!
@@dale116dot7 I have seen the assertation somewhere that a properly tuned carb is every bit as good as EFI. Where EFI shines is that it's instantly adjustable, whereas a carb you have to stop and adjust, if you know how.
@@guywerry6614 No carburetor can hold the air fuel ratio as tightly as a factory EFI system, they infer the catalyst chemistry and balance it to within 0.01 AFR shift or sometimes better. Even transients are usually held to within 0.1 AFR shift even with extreme WOT slams. But that is in the context of a factory tune and tight emission goals. It takes us many man-years of calibration to get there though. But on a hot rod if it came with a carburetor I’d be more likely to leave it or tune it. I love tuning the Q-jet. My favourite carb.
The Logical vibe that You convey when explaining things of “ old schoolness” and what Your take on it is like hanging out with a buddy in his garage shootin the shit ;) 👊🏼⛽️
I remember being in 6th grade drooling over chrome reverse wheels in the J.C. Whitney catalog, the one that had 3/4 race cams in it, those where good times to grow up. When we got into middle school, we couldn't wait for the Want Add Press weekly auto edition to come out !!!
I remember the Auto Edition! Also, the Wheeler Dealer, Auto Trader and a bunch of old car trading publications. We're the last of the Mohicans! Won't be long before no one is alive that was around then.
You hit the nail on the head, I have a 1973 Plymouth Satellite very original, my first car I bought in 1981and still have. It's my favorite car even though I have modern rides that do everything. Nothing better cranking the window manually and having to pump the gas pedal to start. It's a happy place and brings back those old memories. Thank you Uncle for that subject.
I'm old, and grew up and started driving in the bargain muscle car era of the mid 70's. Due to this, I experienced all the trends and fads of the era. The candy paint jobs with graphics, "jacking up" the car and putting some big N littles on it (bigs withe the deeeeep dish), Cherry bombs that would blow out in a week but you kept the receipt so if the fuzz pulled you over, you could prove that they were new. Not to mention all the swapping of intakes, carbs, cams and headers (and usually pissing off your dad by leaving oil and fluid stains at the top of the driveway). I look at cars for sale now, and see vintage muscle with 20" rims with O-rings for tires and the digital dashes and LS swaps and it immediately turns me off. It just doesn't look right. I get that people today want the general performance and reliability of today's cars wrapped up in the vintage look, but they're missing the fun and adventure of having to keep one of those old beasts in tune ALL the time.
So spot on Tony! I'm quite fanatical about the nostalgia thing and don't want anything newer than early 80:s parts on my cars. Looking at cars at shows, just a modern tach destroys a car in my eyes.
@charlieb308 original tires for my 62 wanted to folly every line in the road..best thing I did do was use modern tires..but then again my 62 was my everyday driver
If I see a car at a show that catches my eye, for instance what looks like an original car. I'll walk up to it and if I see Dakota digital gauges or even a newer tach & gauges in a vintage interior it just looks so out of place to me. The worst thing is if someone puts an LS engine in let's say a 65 Impala SS I'm gone. It's the quickest way to make me bang a U-turn.
In 1976 when I was 12 years old,, these guys in my town had a small car club. One of the guys had a 67 Camaro. It was pearl white, a Rowdy sounding solid lifter 396 ,4 Speed and it had a grump lump hood scoop. I was mesmerized by this car especially at night when it would drive under the street lights and the paint would flip flop.
Agree 100%, I always place high value on serviceability. Some mods are necessary due to unobtainable parts but I see too many poorly done cars that had no problems in original form yet the owner (who just watched Motor Trend TV) just hasta try to emulate their TV idols only to unload the less than stellar result for the next owner to undo. If you want a MODern car BUY ONE.
Tony your like a brother from a different mother...and Dad as it is! Both of our classics a 52 and a 60 (doesnt matter what cars) are bone stock, original cars and we drive them everywhere. The 52 did a 1200 mile week long tour in September with no issues at all. Cheers bro! 🇨🇦
I loved my 1969 F250 4x4 with the transplanted 1966 289 for the stone age simplicity. The engine had 3 wires running to it. Oil, water, coil. It had 1 short V belt. I miss it so.
Uncle Tony understands and articulates "cool car" like the great seasoned hands-on journalist he is. Insightful and entertaining as usual! "Keep on Keepin" on Uncle Tony!
The lighting glow is so true. It fits with the more natural, manual, warm organic feel of a classic. The harsh sharp led lights fits with modern cars which are full of gadgets, electronics - binary stuff. In a colder, plastic modern society, the organic warm stuff offers a certain comfort
Boy you sure hit the nail on the head on this one Uncle Tony!! I just don't get these guys that want the LS in older cars but then again it has to be because they do not know anything about cars and are doing it because of Peer pressure. It has to be "OLD SCHOOL" for me with NO COMPUTERS in it what so ever!!!! Great video!!
Sometimes you just like a car because of the way the old buttons feel and click And it has a Attitude in a mood Or good vibe it makes you feel a certain way The don't mess with it If it makes you happy the way it is Just do little improvements to keep it going down the road
Good job UT! It all boils down to what era are you trying to capture. I'm trying to make my 66 Rambler look like a 60's era Gasser. Econoline straight axle, Stewart Warner gauges, slots and a reverse teardrop hood scoop. I've even modified a set of Rambler V8 valve covers to fit another brand small block. I get a rush looking for parts at the swap meet that match the era, (it's all part of the fun) no billet no LEDS!
Right now I have a couple cars, a Camaro Z28 & Mustang GT. Eventually, I'm going back to something older than my 40 year old Camaro. When I decided that I started collecting day two accessories like a 8K Sun tach, an 8-Track player and a pair of Thrush mufflers mufflers. Still looking for a clean set of SW gauges, I'm gonna have to wait on the Cragar's & valve covers until I know what I'm gonna get. I just trying to be prepared.
One more comment, There's NOTHING undesirable about Slag hammer !! You NAILED it and memories of my childhood. It also tickles my funny bone every time I see it. Oh, and the tire stickout and the stance make the burnouts perfect !!
That Sportster vibration, sitting there at a stop light the front wheel would go back and forth 3/4 of an inch, it was mesmerizing. You could set your timing to it. Wonderful.
I built a 88 cubic inch Sportster motor for my tube frame 98 S1 White Lightning. First engine I had ever built. Axtell cylinders, 12:1 CP pistons, Andrews camshafts and a Mikuni flatslide carb. I really got to experience the direct effect of what a build had on power that you become used to. Such a badass bike. She's gone now and this is totally unrelated to the video context but thanks for the memory anyway Tony.
And that's why I don't like the modern muscle cars. Not for me. I like my skinny steering wheel. I like burning my arm on the top of the door. I like my Dodge Music Master AM radio. I like the sound a 340 makes at 3000 on the highway.The smells, the sounds and the whole experience just aren't the same in the new ones.
Tony, I've been watching your content for awhile, and let me say, this has been the most neutral "hot take" I've ever heard. You're right, you can't get one car to do everything perfect, but remember, the reason that my '69 Thunderbird had a thermal regulated alternator, and a points style ignition system, is that was considered either the best that was available, or "good enough" to pass for a car back in the day. The reason that older cars do not have a digitally controlled, 8 speed with torque converter lockout transmission, is because it simply wasn't available back them. For example, the SR71 Blackbird, arguably the most sophisticated aircraft of it's time, had a closed loop, analog control system for it's air intakes. Long story short, the SR71 had a sort of variable length intake manifold for it's turbines. One of the issues it had, was the analog circuit would "hiccup", violently throwing pilots around in the cockpit hard enough to cause concussions due to turbine flameouts. Modern aircraft disconnect the pilot from the control surfaces, and engine systems and make 250 corrections/second to keep wildly unstable aircraft in the air. Do you think that the SR71 might have had a more advanced intake control system if it was available? I believe so. The same thing with cars. I understand your point, and I can see where your sentiments lie, but I have to disagree with leaving things on vehicles approching 50 years old stock. I like the looks, I even like the problems with the engines, and in some cases, I might even be persuaded to leave factory carbs alone, but I also remember that my daily (76 GMC 1/2t ton 350sbc 4spd.) required constant work to keep it on the road. When I bought my first "modern" car, an Acura, I went a little crazy because I had all this extra time on my hands and didn't know what to do with it. I do agree with your closing sentiment though. If you wanna keep it stock, keep it stock, if you wanna upgrade, upgrade it. I do think that if we want to encourage the younger generations to keep this hobby/madness alive, we need to interact with them on their terms though. If the younger kids want to LS swap their plymouth, hey, I've got a cherry picker and some tools. If they want to rebuild their points, let me show you a trick with a matchbook. As long as the craft stays alive for future generations so that they can experience the magic that I did when I did my first engine swap and brought it to life, I'm willing to swallow my pride a little bit and help them get what they're looking for out of their classics.
What a timely video for me. Been upgrading my 1972 C10 Chevy pickup over the last 6-7 years. I wanted to replace the tired 350 4 bbl that was although had 92,000 miles still ran straight and strong. My usage for the truck, Western Canada and only 500 miles west from DD Speed Shop in Winnipeg so only use the truck 6 months a year so LS didn't seem practical for me. Ended up redoing a Small Block 400 with a .30 bore and flat tappet cam and glad I did not go the LS Route as I've put 1000 miles on the 400 and just love listening to the engine while driving and the old school torque it produces. I've been having issues with my volt gauge and have been toying with the idea of a new Classic Instruments dash but love the look of the original in the truck. After watching your video I am going to keep my original and fix the Voltage Gauge issue. One last thing when I first bought the truck I wanted to put dual exhausts on it and I'm old so a loud system wasn't for me. The working owner of our local go to for car enthusiasts Muffler Shop was an older guy and I told him I wanted the truck to sound like the V8 4bbl with factory dual exhausts like I listened to growing up in the 50's and 60's and he nailed it for me.
What you are basically saying here is that there is a difference between making something "better" and making something "right." I had a 392 Challenger. I wanted to put exhaust on it. I went through RUclips and listened to at least 10 different setups before finding the "right" one. There were 9 other options that I listened to, but the "RIGHT" one was the one that sounded like my Father's 1970 Challenger when I was a kid. All of the choices were improvements over stock, but only ONE matched the sound I had in my head from my childhood memories. I get you.
@charlieb308anything I've ever made louder was purely for my own enjoyment. If someone else happens to like it, then cool. If not, then that's fine too.
Last week I got my fuel gauge to work and noticed it took quite awhile to move up and register a quarter full ('65 Valiant convertible). At the time, I thought the gauge had seen better days. However, after UT described the advantage of having a less sensitive needle movement, I am glad it does move up slowly.
I recently purchased a 2006 F-250 diesel. Other than a cold air kit and engine "bullet proofing" done by the original owner, it's completely stock. The only modification I plan to make is installing a volt meter. God knows why Ford didn't put one in the factory gauge cluster but, they didn't! I already bought an AutoMeter Sport Comp gauge and a column mount pod for it to live in, I just need to find a couple hours spare time to install them. On the other hand, a friend just installed a Dakota dash in his GM square body and loves it. What i like most about his install is that his old cluster was completely functional AND included the fairly rare factory tach, which I've been looking for for quite a while. Yes, I know I can buy a reproduction tach but, I bought his entire cluster, including all of the sending units for $20.
You’ve hit the nail on the head. I can relate on both the cars and the bikes! Had a ‘69 hemi, 4 speed Road Runner, it had a soul. Driven late model Challengers, are they fast, do they shift well, hell yeah! But they lack the soul, quirks, sounds and aggravation of that Road Runner. Best of all I could work on the old bird. Bikes? Same thing - had a ‘77 Superglide, huge pia! Bought an ‘07 FXDC new, awesome ride, missed the old Superglide at times, the “troublehead” motor, clunky gearbox and chain drive, BUT, super cool bike, but if you change the wrong things on either you loose the soul part! Wish I had the old bird and the glide back in the garage - real time machines! Thanks Tony, Merry Xmas to you and your friends and family.
Got a 63 Chevy that came with Dakota Digital dash and the gauges did not run well and were flickering. Sent it back to DD and now my dash is working well and looks like a spaceship at night. I even placed 4 more under dash digital gauges.
The 440 in the 67....thats what make my synapses happy...the raw crackling Power...with tony Smoking a cigarette one Handel burnout.... No 1000+ HP burnout Video on the Internet ever will give me this anarchic warm feels
I do the same thing-I like to keep the aesthetics of restorations. I did that on my 1980 F350. I could have bought a new fangeled dash, but I thought it looked crappy and it changed the look of the truck as it rolled off the line. Also spot on about the Harley vibration-I love to FEEL the bike.
I've seen a mostly stock 69 super bee sitting next to a 72 Olds 442 Cutlass in a muffler shop parking lot...the bee had some scratches and tears in the original seats but it was mostly all there. The 72 Olds was immaculate and spotless, and the owner had spent a lot more on it (he told me he had about 100k in it), but he put in a digital dash, reuphostered 2 tone seats, the steering wheel was a custom one with the owner's name engraved into it, big oversized rims, custom paint, etc etc. And the bee looked soooooo much better and more desirable.
21:00 as an 80s kid who graduated in '91,trust me we still drew cars like Slaghammer when we were kids. I mean the Badman 55 chevy model,i figured thats how all 55s came from the factory😂
This is really good stuff. I like the way you present information Tony. And your love of cars. I wish I knew this stuff 35 years ago and had shop friends. I was always intimidated by mechanics and never thought I could understand it. Now Im getting my mind around it. Thanks for the great videos👍
I once fit a 2" Autometer Tach into a stock cluster and had to add a couple resistors into the power for the light so it would be closer to the other dash lights and not stand out.
Great video. I gen3 Hemi swapped my 70 Coronet 500. I wanted to drive it thousands of miles on power tour every summer that engine and modern trans is perfect for that. It has AC and it has cruise but analog gauges, a radio, and overall very 1970 in almost all other ways. Perfect mix…. for me!
Totally agree with the aesthetic. Have a couple 90s vehicles I haven’t updated the radios only because the available options either make it look too old for the era or like a spaceship. Also can’t stand touch screens in the new cars. Definitely not adding them to an old one. Eventually something close enough will come out but haven’t seen one yet. Couple nice options for BMWs with orange lights, but all my vehicles have that 90s-early2000s green
Regarding gauges. 1961 & '62 Chrysler had the crystal dome of electro-luminecenct jewelry. The most beautiful nighttime dash ever. I suspect there were accidents cause by the dash mesmerizing people with its mysterious otherworldly hypnotic charm. I've never seen one that didn't still work either.
Your right. I have a 69 Superbee with a 70 440. I wanted to 6.4 hemi swap it untill I rode in my buddies 70 6.1 Cuda. It just doesn't have the sound or feel of a Mopar big block. And my 440 is a mildly built. Also just say no to big wheels on a 68-70 B-body.
Talking about moving gas gages . . . . I had a '67 bug that had a cable driven gas gage. (I think they changed to electric in '68) And, yes, you could watch the gas slosh back and forth. The great thing about it was when you were almost a empty, like about a quart you would see the needle stop at the bottom of its movement as the float hit the bottom of the tank. Good times
I call it the Chip Foose effect ,just because you have the talent to make those mods to a car doesn't meen you should. People watch these tv shows and then they want to add 22inch wheels and shave door handles remove drip rails ,flush windshields with no trim.In the end the car is just a cartoon of itself .
I've said this for years. Well, two things. #1 - pick a theme for your car. Day Two, Street/Strip, Pro Touring, Resto-Mod.... and stick with it. Don't just attach a random bunch of crap and think it makes a nice car. It's like when you see a wildly custom car for sale for a ridiculous price. But the builder built it for HIMSELF, using HIS TASTES and modifications that he liked. Now trying to sell it for the amount of work put in. BUT, that car now only appeals to the person who built it. So that car sits for sale for MONTHS, even YEARS.
Well said. I've seen a dude dump 100k in a car and turn it from a classic into his very well polished personal art project. And I'd obviously rather have a clean stock example, if given the choice between the two, by a mile.
So true, wheels, upholstery and gauges are really important, I think. I have imported some gauges from the US to UK from a 70's Mercruiser. They are so nice, really well made, all metal construction, mostly brass, real chrome bezel and real glass. Try to buy something new these days and you will be disappointed. That's right I'm putting boat gauges on my car, it's a 1977 Chevrolet Opala, but I don't care because they look so good.
“Period correct “ for a reason Even my motorcycle has oem mirrors … runs perfect as my 75 Pontiac daily driver . 20 or 200 miles at a time it’s no worries driving
You knocked it out of the park with this one. The coolest sounding car I ever heard was a '56 Ford 292 with dual exhaust. I know the technology is right up there with outdoor plumbing, but I don't care. For me, it rocks. I don't envy owning all the new tech.
I have to admit to being a bit of a knucklehead on gauges: I like analog style, and the soft/warm glow of old school bulbs. I don't really want them to pop, but just be at home... looking comfortable. And I do not want to read numbers usually: a visual map in my head makes a glance capture more, faster than numbered led/lcd segment readouts. I make one exception for an afr gauge. What do I dislike the most? The 4x multi/multi function cluster on larger [cat] engine panels, but thats not a car or truck engine - gotta push a mode button like 8x to get data, which takes at least 10x longer than glancing at an analog cluster.
Warm white leds are nice 2200k gives real nice warm glow. I got 24v leds so they arent too bright at 12v. If you looked at the dash you would never know
I had a speed 3 Mazda once and I nodded it to 300 at the tire. I turned a competent car into a torque steering death machine. So I pitched it and bought a loaded 2012 Mustang GT with every factory performance option. I just cleaned up the tune and ran it. 11s in the quarter and totally streetable.
I like them stock to a point. The Mopar ammeter, gotta go,freaking fire hazard in the dash. While you bypass that, put in a bigger alternator so your lights shine brighter at idle at the stop lights. My Dakota starter doesn't sound old school, yet when it's 95° and vapor locking, it still starts before you kill the battery. Oh, use what ya got to get rid of the vapor lock too. When I bought mine in the 80s, I thought it handled and brakes like an Imperial. Got rid of the power brake booster. Put in offset upper control arm bushings for more caster. Recently , put in a borgeson steering box. Drives as good as my 2021 pickup now. It still drives like a Mopar, yet better. Oh yeah, AC fixed too with later model parts , much better than new too. Other than the starter, nobody can tell what has been done with the hood closed, and I smile a lot when I drive, which is often
I remember reading how dangerous ammeters are in print. Well around 1995 in tech school I mentioned it to a classmate who had one in his Cutlass. Wouldn't ya know ,next week we are sitting at a light and the sucker went poof. We got it out and limped home and said ,holy💩 Ive heard of it but haven't seen it till now.
My 47 Dodge pickup has a 230 flathead and a modern denso starter. I bought it from an engineer who said good starter cores were hard to find so he milled an adapter for the late model starter. Its also got stainless steel small block valves Chevy valves and I believe an Isky cam. In '57 the 230 had a BBD as an option for 132 hp - an early Super Six. It was that way when I bought it. Not really a hot rod but pretty simple. I love Mopar flathead sixes. With modern oils they will exceed 200,000 miles. Other than the Ford 8, the Mopar L-head 6 has the best following and make a good daily driver. They are dependable.
Excellent video Tony, I've felt this way for years. Looking into a "Restored car" to see a digital dash after looking at the 20's or 22's simply does not look right! I fully understand the need for larger rims for clearance when larger rotors/calipers are used, at the same time they simply look OFF. I can have an opinion on your car but then again it's still your car to do as you wish. As for a Dakota Digital dash in an otherwise restored Mustang - uh, NO! To finally see someone clarify that "Mag" wheels are actually made from MAGNESIUM is so refreshing! When I hear wide tires referred to as "Mags" it's absolutely cringeworthy! Hearing the same comment about a factory custom wheel is almost the same, as if any kind of shiny rim or wide tire must be called a MAG. Sorry Tony but even though I'm a nonviolent person I feel these people deserve a "Slap upside the head!" Thanks again Uncle T!
Personally I love most old 4 doors. I want something to cruise around town and look cool in. I always get hate for picking a 4 door over a 2 door people asking why I'm wasting my time/money.
And these same 4 door hater people wouldn't be caught dead in a modern standard cab (2 door) pick up. Truth is there is usually a huge difference in condition between 2 and 4 door vintage cars these days. Many of the two door cars have been beat to death and rebuilt 2 or 3 times, whereas it's for the most part not so hard to find an unmolested, low mile original paint 4 door. '57 Chevy's are a good example of this.
@@Freedomquest08 Yep I know down south where I am a badly rusted out basket case early Camaro is $10K plus, I picked up a straight 62 Chrysler 300 4 door hard top with only rust in the front floor pans in trade for a 62 Falcon.
So true Tony. I like simple 60’s type vehicles for that very reason. My new vehicles are amazing and perform but if it’s a rare model and fails no one wants to work on them and what to do if the ECM fails. If I buy again I will make sure there are millions of them so I can get support. Or I buy an older vehicle.
I agree. The 48 Sportster is my sweet spot. I love it so much. I had a 2011 48 Sportster that I had to sell unfortunately. Now i have a 2006 Roadster and its is great! I want to do a 48 Sportster front end swap. The big front tires look sweet. I ride alot and long distance so I bought a Road king. But every now and then I ride the Sportster and it just feels right. I agree, the Sportster is just a great knock around bike. Big enough to ride anywhere, but not so big that it's impossible to throw around.
You're right about the paint UT, when I use base/clear on the 60's stuff ot looks weird, I usually go single stage urethane instead, it looks more authentic but still better then 60's or 70's stock. Just loaded videos today showing that in white on a firebird
Tony,. Have you ever played with a Rover V8. I'm in the UK so never worked on any MOPAR engines but the Rover seems architecturally very similar to a 318. Loving the channel, keep up the great content.
Tony, I couldn't agree with you more. You hit the nail on the head. When you modernize an old car you take the soul out of it. I prefere period correct aftermarket parts because there made during the same time period. I'm all for modern technology as long as I don't see or hear it. Hot rodding has always been about putting that modern more powerful engine in an older car ( flathead ford v8 into a model T or A , then a small block chevy replacing the flathead). It matches that time period. I wouldn't put an ls in a street rod, but some will. Look at resto mods. All modern drive train, suspension and amenities in an old car. It looks and performs great, but it's a modern car. I'd rather buy a new performance car. Great video.
Hi Tony. If you want to get the birds out of the shop, leave the shop door open about 2 feet and turn the lights off. If it's light outside they'll let themselves out
Tony gets it. My neighbor bought a later Challenger that ooked cool in white with contrasting black graphics. He added black window tint that negated that stark contrast. Took all the charm right outta that car.
Your analysis of the Sportster is so true, so damn funny! I had an 02 Sportster Sport XL1200S. Solid mount. It was absolutely delicious, even at 60mph but by about 65 mph it turned into a vibrating jackhammer. Within minutes, my feet, hands and johnson (lol) were turning numb! Dont get me wrong, the torque and tall gearing were amazing, such a relaxed ride, but the vibration was insane. But just like yourself, most of my riding was around town; the 50-100 mile day, there was no way I'd drive that Sporty any further!
Lol yeah my first ride was a 1968 Chevy truck and that's how I knew if I could make it to Nashville where gas was cheaper....I rocked the steering wheel back and forth to see if the gas guage would move, if it didn't I stopped at the local store and got a couple gallons before heading to town 😂
I agree 100 % Old school car, When your redoing it, Keep it Original / Period Correct, nothing looks more stupid than 20 inch Wheels with Rubber Band Tires on 60's 70's Car / Truck
You nailed it I’m building a 69 chevelle with a big block. I want nothing to do with cross over exhaust. I just gotta figure out what muffler’s to run for that 1977 sound and find that 5 band equalizer and a pair of Jensen Triaxle III’s
My uncle had a 62 MGA, I remember riding in it when I was a kid, the gas gauge was always moving back and forth. Before the whole anti slosh baffles, the speedo bounced a bit too. Such a fun car even though it wasn't fast it cornered like it was on rails.
I think you have very valid points. The way I think about is this. You can’t get caught in the middle. What I means is; if you plan to modify a car you need to be either closer to the original style and astatic or clearly modified with a purpose. I think when you end up in the middle of the two the car becomes confusing. I don’t know if I’m explaining this well, but when I mod a car I try and make it so that when someone looks at it they say, ‘ok, that was done for a reason’.
Good video. With reference to the feel of older cars, radial tires will usually destroy that feel on cars that weren't designed for them. This is particularly true on the stifly-sprung unit body Chrysler Cotporation cars; radials will also deteriorate the handling of these cars.
Hi there, I thought I’d just let you know how useful I find your videos . I’m in the planning stage of my Ford 100e Prefect project (uk viewer). Your videos are really getting me to think about what I want and how I plan to go about doing it. Keep up the good work.
Tony, i agree for the most part. I love old classics & i am obsessed with serviceability, obtainability of parts, & mechanical simplicity. There are exceptions to this. I have a 67 impala that is in need of power steering, because parking this thing is nothing but stressful haha
I agree with you about many things, and to each their own on their individual choices for their builds. I personally prefer an OEM+ look for my more modern car, basically building it "the best that it could be" with factory-level parts from more performance oriented cars, or to use the old adage "how it should have came from the factory". With my 68 Catalina, since it is mostly original, my goal has been to keep it as stock appearing as possible, with only NOS replacement and "options" that would have came from the factory had it been ordered that way. It was a base car, but I've added the AM/FM radio, in-dash clock, and up-level chrome interior trim that didnt come with the base trim. Other things are just normal wear-and-tear replacement items.
Great video, Tony! Totally agree, that the experience has to be considered in the build plan. One thing that will totally turn me off from an otherwise good classic car build, is big rims with FWD looking offset. Just horrible!
I'm guilty of modifications, it's been my life since I learned how to ride a bike. Although my daily driver is bone stock, a 4runner with nearly 300k on it, the only reason I buy old cars is to mess with them. Currently creating an autocross car from a mopar abody, a 72 scamp that has tripled its meager factory horsepower and lost about 300 pounds. I wake up thinking about cam profiles. Perhaps it's the machinist in me but my mental engineering projects help me not think politics and or the current state of our world. I need this...lol
Nailed it. I like Kaiser-Willys/Willys jeeps (CJ-5, CJ-6, CJ-3B, ...) because of the simplicity. No need to change anything (eventhough the brakes suck).
I had a discussion in this same vein with my dad about lighting on his classic Farmall tractor. My dad found an LED light upgrade kit that he thinks is amazing because it's so bright, but to me it's just garish, blue, blinding circus bulbs. From his perspective - it's new technology, the LEDs last forever, they're brighter - what's not to love. I tried to explain to him color temperature, and light spectrum curves, and color rendering index, and it just went over his head.
As it should, is he using the tractor? Better lights are great! Is he restoring it OE lights all the way. Those old lights didn't shine past the front of the tractor. His LEDs light up the whole field. That's all he cares about.
@@joew8440 I'm not going to argue with results. And certainly I'm not going to argue 1940s engineers had the final say, because LED technology didn't even exist. However in my dad's particular case it was more of a side-grade. Or it wasn't as good as it could have been. LEDs have their own compromises that a lot of people aren't aware of. Basic ones only output a single wavelength of light (I'm not talking one color, it's within a few nanometers of a single wavelength). If a cheap "white" LED bulb just combines one red, blue, and green wavelength to appear white, it won't be able to light up objects of different colors with the same intensity as an incandescent bulb, or actual daylight will. Also blue LEDs can be more intense at lower power, so manufacturers can cheat by shipping a light that dominates in the blue spectrum and has big lumens number printed on the box. Finally those blue favored lights can overpower our eyes in low light conditions. Floating point reflections like snow or dust will tend to dazzle human vision when lit up with blue dominant light. However we tend to be less sensitive to red tinted light, which is why auxiliay fog lamps, brake lights, etc. tend to be red or amber.
I always keep this in mind - "just because you can, doesn't mean you should"
My '79 T-bird is original. No LED's, no bluetooth, no electric fan, etc. AM/FM stereo w/ cassette player. It takes me back to a world I once knew, a world we would like to go back to.😎
I may have mentioned this in Tonys comments before but I had a 1974 Impala that was all stock with the 400 SB... I swapped it's manual fan for a clutch driven one... The good part was you could barely hear the engine running.
The bad part is that you could barely hear the engine running, so I ruined my flywheel trying to start it with it already running.
It happened a lot 😳
That's one of my old cars that I miss the most.
79 thunderbird is the best car ever made.
Yeah, I agree, I want to relive the full 60’s experience, which in my case involves really heavy manual steering, 10” drum brakes and 7.75x14 bias plys, I wouldn’t have it any other way.
@@jamesblair9614 You had to know how to steer a manual steering car or truck. As long as you were rolling ever so slightly it was easy to turn the steering wheel. 😁 I was taught how to back in and parallel park a semi in an early 1960s Mack that had no power steering. And if she wasn't rolling at least a little bit, you weren't turning that wheel. 😏
And you're lucky if you find a car with the original vacuum tube radio...for the best sound experience ...when it warms up .
The latest trend in cars is to have a fully digital dash... it's literally just a screen with gauge graphics drawn on it. Me personally, I like and prefer the older fully analog gauges. The other trend (and in actuality probably the bigger sin because it impacts usability) is to use a screen to control functions of the car such as your heating and cooling as well as radio control. There's just some things that will always work better as a physical button, but many designers don't really seem to get that these days as they try to make the cars like an iphone.
This isn't just a problem with cars, it applies to literally every consumer product with electronics. Everything needs to have a touchscreen because that's what the average user is accustomed to. I wouldn't be surprised if buttons and switches completely go extinct within my lifetime.
@@danebeck7900God, I hope not! The problem with all this is that a screen currently doesn't provide any sort of tactile clues as to what you're actually pressing so with a screen you at least need to glance at it to make sure you're hitting the right thing... not ideal in a moving vehicle. The other issue with a lot of modern vehicles is the physical buttons they do have, often get crammed together in a small space. I find this especially annoying with cruise control when the buttons are buried amongst a bunch of other buttons that essentially feel the same in the dark. My previous daily was a Mazda that had textures on the different cruise buttons and they were separated from other buttons making it easier to work the cruise at night without having to see them. I miss that particular aspect from that car. Sometimes simpler is actually better. I'm ok with most of the less often accessed things being controlled or settable from the screen, there's just certain frequently used functions that work better (provide a better user experience) when they have a physical button. As with most things, there's a balance to such things.
It's not really about designers being incapable or users being used to screens. Designers still love mid-century and regularly revert to 50-70 in their work. Times change, though, some things become cheaper, some become more expensive. Based on my knowledge of various household appliances, which i assume you can extrapolate to anything with simple electronics in it, - analogue has become very expensive.
Touch screens are not only produced in bulk, they also "just work" - there's nothing behind them, no switches, no intricate gears or anything that requires skilled manual labor and calibration. It's a screen, a programmable controller and a bunch of wires.
Those of us born in 70's, 80's and 90's still remember how we first got that CD player, or LCD TV or a microwave with touch controls - back then it was top of the line, more expensive than anything analogue, but now it's the other way around, we just can't get used to it.
Its fvcking annoying you cant adjust the blower or temp blindly anymore in this new crap
The older I get the more I agree with leaving my cars stock the way they left the factory.
I prefer to add sound deadening to my cars because they cheap out on that from the factory.
Maybe extra muffler/resonator if there is space underneath.
Im not even old.
I absolutely agree
I'm sort of the same way. Though I'm fine with adding a 5 speed, electric fans, upgrading the brakes and modifying the og radio to handle Bluetooh or an aux adapter. But nothing more.
Yes but you can upgrade to more reliable parts like a roller cam. Double chain. Roller rockers.
I've always left my street cars stock. Race cars were for modifying and plying with.
"Disturbance in the force"! I agree! Best I've ever heard it described!
Worst/most common offenders to me, are the almost mandatory lowering, and the big wheels(anything bigger than 16" for me)with rubber band tires. Modernizing the dash and seats would be next on the list...
Can't agree more. When you see a nice older car or truck, but it has stock wheels/tires/ride height, it looks so right.
This big wheel is also my least favourite “upgrade” I know it’s personal taste but far out …sometimes people can make 18” work but, big jump from 15” but man 20” or 22” is just never going to sit right here.
Couldn't agree more about the modern gauges not necessarily being the right choice Tony. I'm just a handful of years younger than you, and was in High School in the early 80's up here in Canada. Our high school was rare, as we had a 3 or 4 bay (can't recall for sure) shop/garage and our school was mainstream, not vocational, so I was fortunate to have auto class with the absolute best shop teacher ever, you remind me so much of him. He once asked our class - "you're buying a new car, you have the choice of carburetor of fuel injection, what do you choose. Poor Myles put his hand up and said "FUEL INJECTION!" with authority. Teacher ponders for a second, asks "why?". Myles replies with pride, thinking teacher is going to agree, "It's the thing of the 80's". Teacher's mic-drop response, "So is AIDS, do you want that too?" You nailed it, have a reason/purpose for the changes you consider, and not just because it's the thing of the week. Sorry, gotta go outside and flip my air cleaner back to right side up after seeing your video
Well from an emissions point of view there is no contest. But I am pretty convinced that most aftermarket EFI conversions are only marginally better than the factory carburettor, often worse. And I’m someone that designs and tunes EFI systems for some of those OEMs.
So ,We Got An Air Cleaner Flipper Here ,OMG Dads 455 Buick LaSabre Would Come Alive With That Mod ,Till I Got An Azz Chewing For Flipping It Over ,Good Times !!!
@@dale116dot7 I have seen the assertation somewhere that a properly tuned carb is every bit as good as EFI.
Where EFI shines is that it's instantly adjustable, whereas a carb you have to stop and adjust, if you know how.
@@guywerry6614 No carburetor can hold the air fuel ratio as tightly as a factory EFI system, they infer the catalyst chemistry and balance it to within 0.01 AFR shift or sometimes better. Even transients are usually held to within 0.1 AFR shift even with extreme WOT slams. But that is in the context of a factory tune and tight emission goals. It takes us many man-years of calibration to get there though. But on a hot rod if it came with a carburetor I’d be more likely to leave it or tune it. I love tuning the Q-jet. My favourite carb.
@@gregschultz2029my 455 grand prix sounded like a jet taking off with the lid flipped and my foot on the floor. Lol
The Logical vibe that You convey when explaining things of “ old schoolness” and what Your take on it is like hanging out with a buddy in his garage shootin the shit ;) 👊🏼⛽️
Solid advice! I cannot count how many times I've had to talk myself down from doing something stupid to my 67 Coronet.
I remember being in 6th grade drooling over chrome reverse wheels in the J.C. Whitney catalog, the one that had 3/4 race cams in it, those where good times to grow up. When we got into middle school, we couldn't wait for the Want Add Press weekly auto edition to come out !!!
I remember the Auto Edition! Also, the Wheeler Dealer, Auto Trader and a bunch of old car trading publications. We're the last of the Mohicans! Won't be long before no one is alive that was around then.
Paradise by the dashboard lights
You hit the nail on the head, I have a 1973 Plymouth Satellite very original, my first car I bought in 1981and still have. It's my favorite car even though I have modern rides that do everything. Nothing better cranking the window manually and having to pump the gas pedal to start. It's a happy place and brings back those old memories. Thank you Uncle for that subject.
Shouldn't really have to pump it. I step on it once to set the choke/high idle, then crank.
@@DarkFlamage when it's cold and sat for a week or more. You must live in a warm climate?
Yeah, I had a 73 Satellite...tiny 2bbl on a single plane on a 318, very low compression and lean burn. It needed pumped in the cold.
I'm old, and grew up and started driving in the bargain muscle car era of the mid 70's.
Due to this, I experienced all the trends and fads of the era. The candy paint jobs with graphics, "jacking up" the car and putting some big N littles on it (bigs withe the deeeeep dish), Cherry bombs that would blow out in a week but you kept the receipt so if the fuzz pulled you over, you could prove that they were new. Not to mention all the swapping of intakes, carbs, cams and headers (and usually pissing off your dad by leaving oil and fluid stains at the top of the driveway).
I look at cars for sale now, and see vintage muscle with 20" rims with O-rings for tires and the digital dashes and LS swaps and it immediately turns me off. It just doesn't look right.
I get that people today want the general performance and reliability of today's cars wrapped up in the vintage look, but they're missing the fun and adventure of having to keep one of those old beasts in tune ALL the time.
So spot on Tony! I'm quite fanatical about the nostalgia thing and don't want anything newer than early 80:s parts on my cars. Looking at cars at shows, just a modern tach destroys a car in my eyes.
I pitched an Autometer for a Sun super tach
Car show I was at had so many put modern interiors into classic cars...I had to choke back my vomit response.
@charlieb308 original tires for my 62 wanted to folly every line in the road..best thing I did do was use modern tires..but then again my 62 was my everyday driver
If I see a car at a show that catches my eye, for instance what looks like an original car. I'll walk up to it and if I see Dakota digital gauges or even a newer tach & gauges in a vintage interior it just looks so out of place to me. The worst thing is if someone puts an LS engine in let's say a 65 Impala SS I'm gone. It's the quickest way to make me bang a U-turn.
In 1976 when I was 12 years old,, these guys in my town had a small car club. One of the guys had a 67 Camaro. It was pearl white, a Rowdy sounding solid lifter 396 ,4 Speed and it had a grump lump hood scoop. I was mesmerized by this car especially at night when it would drive under the street lights and the paint would flip flop.
Tony is a certified legend.
Agree 100%, I always place high value on serviceability. Some mods are necessary due to unobtainable parts but I see too many poorly done
cars that had no problems in original form yet the owner (who just watched Motor Trend TV) just hasta try to emulate their TV idols only to unload the less than stellar result for the next owner to undo. If you want a MODern car BUY ONE.
Tony your like a brother from a different mother...and Dad as it is!
Both of our classics a 52 and a 60 (doesnt matter what cars) are bone stock, original cars and we drive them everywhere. The 52 did a 1200 mile week long tour in September with no issues at all. Cheers bro! 🇨🇦
I loved my 1969 F250 4x4 with the transplanted 1966 289 for the stone age simplicity.
The engine had 3 wires running to it.
Oil, water, coil.
It had 1 short V belt.
I miss it so.
Uncle Tony understands and articulates "cool car" like the great seasoned hands-on journalist he is. Insightful and entertaining as usual! "Keep on Keepin" on Uncle Tony!
The lighting glow is so true. It fits with the more natural, manual, warm organic feel of a classic. The harsh sharp led lights fits with modern cars which are full of gadgets, electronics - binary stuff. In a colder, plastic modern society, the organic warm stuff offers a certain comfort
Boy you sure hit the nail on the head on this one Uncle Tony!! I just don't get these guys that want the LS in older cars but then again it has to be because they do not know anything about cars and are doing it because of Peer pressure. It has to be "OLD SCHOOL" for me with NO COMPUTERS in it what so ever!!!! Great video!!
Sometimes you just like a car because of the way the old buttons feel and click And it has a Attitude in a mood Or good vibe it makes you feel a certain way The don't mess with it If it makes you happy the way it is Just do little improvements to keep it going down the road
Good job UT! It all boils down to what era are you trying to capture. I'm trying to make my 66 Rambler look like a 60's era Gasser. Econoline straight axle, Stewart Warner gauges, slots and a reverse teardrop hood scoop. I've even modified a set of Rambler V8 valve covers to fit another brand small block. I get a rush looking for parts at the swap meet that match the era, (it's all part of the fun) no billet no LEDS!
Right now I have a couple cars, a Camaro Z28 & Mustang GT. Eventually, I'm going back to something older than my 40 year old Camaro. When I decided that I started collecting day two accessories like a 8K Sun tach, an 8-Track player and a pair of Thrush mufflers mufflers. Still looking for a clean set of SW gauges, I'm gonna have to wait on the Cragar's & valve covers until I know what I'm gonna get. I just trying to be prepared.
One more comment, There's NOTHING undesirable about Slag hammer !! You NAILED it and memories of my childhood. It also tickles my funny bone every time I see it. Oh, and the tire stickout and the stance make the burnouts perfect !!
That Sportster vibration, sitting there at a stop light the front wheel would go back and forth 3/4 of an inch, it was mesmerizing. You could set your timing to it. Wonderful.
I built a 88 cubic inch Sportster motor for my tube frame 98 S1 White Lightning. First engine I had ever built. Axtell cylinders, 12:1 CP pistons, Andrews camshafts and a Mikuni flatslide carb. I really got to experience the direct effect of what a build had on power that you become used to. Such a badass bike. She's gone now and this is totally unrelated to the video context but thanks for the memory anyway Tony.
And that's why I don't like the modern muscle cars. Not for me. I like my skinny steering wheel. I like burning my arm on the top of the door. I like my Dodge Music Master AM radio. I like the sound a 340 makes at 3000 on the highway.The smells, the sounds and the whole experience just aren't the same in the new ones.
Tony, I've been watching your content for awhile, and let me say, this has been the most neutral "hot take" I've ever heard. You're right, you can't get one car to do everything perfect, but remember, the reason that my '69 Thunderbird had a thermal regulated alternator, and a points style ignition system, is that was considered either the best that was available, or "good enough" to pass for a car back in the day. The reason that older cars do not have a digitally controlled, 8 speed with torque converter lockout transmission, is because it simply wasn't available back them. For example, the SR71 Blackbird, arguably the most sophisticated aircraft of it's time, had a closed loop, analog control system for it's air intakes. Long story short, the SR71 had a sort of variable length intake manifold for it's turbines. One of the issues it had, was the analog circuit would "hiccup", violently throwing pilots around in the cockpit hard enough to cause concussions due to turbine flameouts. Modern aircraft disconnect the pilot from the control surfaces, and engine systems and make 250 corrections/second to keep wildly unstable aircraft in the air. Do you think that the SR71 might have had a more advanced intake control system if it was available? I believe so. The same thing with cars. I understand your point, and I can see where your sentiments lie, but I have to disagree with leaving things on vehicles approching 50 years old stock. I like the looks, I even like the problems with the engines, and in some cases, I might even be persuaded to leave factory carbs alone, but I also remember that my daily (76 GMC 1/2t ton 350sbc 4spd.) required constant work to keep it on the road. When I bought my first "modern" car, an Acura, I went a little crazy because I had all this extra time on my hands and didn't know what to do with it. I do agree with your closing sentiment though. If you wanna keep it stock, keep it stock, if you wanna upgrade, upgrade it. I do think that if we want to encourage the younger generations to keep this hobby/madness alive, we need to interact with them on their terms though. If the younger kids want to LS swap their plymouth, hey, I've got a cherry picker and some tools. If they want to rebuild their points, let me show you a trick with a matchbook. As long as the craft stays alive for future generations so that they can experience the magic that I did when I did my first engine swap and brought it to life, I'm willing to swallow my pride a little bit and help them get what they're looking for out of their classics.
What a timely video for me. Been upgrading my 1972 C10 Chevy pickup over the last 6-7 years. I wanted to replace the tired 350 4 bbl that was although had 92,000 miles still ran straight and strong. My usage for the truck, Western Canada and only 500 miles west from DD Speed Shop in Winnipeg so only use the truck 6 months a year so LS didn't seem practical for me. Ended up redoing a Small Block 400 with a .30 bore and flat tappet cam and glad I did not go the LS Route as I've put 1000 miles on the 400 and just love listening to the engine while driving and the old school torque it produces. I've been having issues with my volt gauge and have been toying with the idea of a new Classic Instruments dash but love the look of the original in the truck. After watching your video I am going to keep my original and fix the Voltage Gauge issue. One last thing when I first bought the truck I wanted to put dual exhausts on it and I'm old so a loud system wasn't for me. The working owner of our local go to for car enthusiasts Muffler Shop was an older guy and I told him I wanted the truck to sound like the V8 4bbl with factory dual exhausts like I listened to growing up in the 50's and 60's and he nailed it for me.
What you are basically saying here is that there is a difference between making something "better" and making something "right."
I had a 392 Challenger. I wanted to put exhaust on it. I went through RUclips and listened to at least 10 different setups before finding the "right" one. There were 9 other options that I listened to, but the "RIGHT" one was the one that sounded like my Father's 1970 Challenger when I was a kid.
All of the choices were improvements over stock, but only ONE matched the sound I had in my head from my childhood memories.
I get you.
I think a lot of people make their vehicles louder because its the thing do. Even though it can make the driving experience unbearable.
I do the opposite LOL
Make cars louder so people know that they are there. I had many close calls on my motorcycle until I put headers on that were very noisy.
My vette is way too quiet, how can you enjoy such a car with a quiet exhaust is hard to understand to me
silence is gold @@Motorsportsgeek
@charlieb308anything I've ever made louder was purely for my own enjoyment. If someone else happens to like it, then cool. If not, then that's fine too.
It's simple. Keep your daily drivers as close to stock as the engineers designed them to be and keep the "upgrades " for your hot rods and other toys.
Last week I got my fuel gauge to work and noticed it took quite awhile to move up and register a quarter full ('65 Valiant convertible). At the time, I thought the gauge had seen better days. However, after UT described the advantage of having a less sensitive needle movement, I am glad it does move up slowly.
I recently purchased a 2006 F-250 diesel. Other than a cold air kit and engine "bullet proofing" done by the original owner, it's completely stock. The only modification I plan to make is installing a volt meter. God knows why Ford didn't put one in the factory gauge cluster but, they didn't! I already bought an AutoMeter Sport Comp gauge and a column mount pod for it to live in, I just need to find a couple hours spare time to install them.
On the other hand, a friend just installed a Dakota dash in his GM square body and loves it. What i like most about his install is that his old cluster was completely functional AND included the fairly rare factory tach, which I've been looking for for quite a while. Yes, I know I can buy a reproduction tach but, I bought his entire cluster, including all of the sending units for $20.
You’ve hit the nail on the head. I can relate on both the cars and the bikes! Had a ‘69 hemi, 4 speed Road Runner, it had a soul. Driven late model Challengers, are they fast, do they shift well, hell yeah! But they lack the soul, quirks,
sounds and aggravation of that Road Runner. Best of all I could work on the old bird. Bikes? Same thing - had a ‘77 Superglide, huge pia! Bought an ‘07 FXDC new, awesome ride, missed the old Superglide at times, the “troublehead” motor, clunky gearbox and chain drive, BUT, super cool bike, but if you change the wrong things on either you loose the soul part! Wish I had the old bird and the glide back in the garage - real time machines! Thanks Tony, Merry Xmas to you and your friends and family.
Got a 63 Chevy that came with Dakota Digital dash and the gauges did not run well and were flickering. Sent it back to DD and now my dash is working well and looks like a spaceship at night. I even placed 4 more under dash digital gauges.
really good advise. This is why I plan to run and drive all my projects as close to stock as possible before deciding what to do with them.
The 440 in the 67....thats what make my synapses happy...the raw crackling Power...with tony Smoking a cigarette one Handel burnout....
No 1000+ HP burnout Video on the Internet ever will give me this anarchic warm feels
UTG speaks to my heart
I do the same thing-I like to keep the aesthetics of restorations. I did that on my 1980 F350. I could have bought a new fangeled dash, but I thought it looked crappy and it changed the look of the truck as it rolled off the line. Also spot on about the Harley vibration-I love to FEEL the bike.
I've seen a mostly stock 69 super bee sitting next to a 72 Olds 442 Cutlass in a muffler shop parking lot...the bee had some scratches and tears in the original seats but it was mostly all there. The 72 Olds was immaculate and spotless, and the owner had spent a lot more on it (he told me he had about 100k in it), but he put in a digital dash, reuphostered 2 tone seats, the steering wheel was a custom one with the owner's name engraved into it, big oversized rims, custom paint, etc etc. And the bee looked soooooo much better and more desirable.
Well it was a Mopar so I'm not surprised..
21:00 as an 80s kid who graduated in '91,trust me we still drew cars like Slaghammer when we were kids.
I mean the Badman 55 chevy model,i figured thats how all 55s came from the factory😂
This is really good stuff. I like the way you present information Tony. And your love of cars. I wish I knew this stuff 35 years ago and had shop friends. I was always intimidated by mechanics and never thought I could understand it. Now Im getting my mind around it. Thanks for the great videos👍
I once fit a 2" Autometer Tach into a stock cluster and had to add a couple resistors into the power for the light so it would be closer to the other dash lights and not stand out.
Great video. I gen3 Hemi swapped my 70 Coronet 500. I wanted to drive it thousands of miles on power tour every summer that engine and modern trans is perfect for that. It has AC and it has cruise but analog gauges, a radio, and overall very 1970 in almost all other ways. Perfect mix…. for me!
Always enjoy your talks.
Totally agree with the aesthetic. Have a couple 90s vehicles I haven’t updated the radios only because the available options either make it look too old for the era or like a spaceship. Also can’t stand touch screens in the new cars. Definitely not adding them to an old one.
Eventually something close enough will come out but haven’t seen one yet. Couple nice options for BMWs with orange lights, but all my vehicles have that 90s-early2000s green
Regarding gauges.
1961 & '62 Chrysler had the crystal dome of electro-luminecenct jewelry.
The most beautiful nighttime dash ever. I suspect there were accidents cause by the dash mesmerizing people with its mysterious otherworldly hypnotic charm.
I've never seen one that didn't still work either.
Your right. I have a 69 Superbee with a 70 440. I wanted to 6.4 hemi swap it untill I rode in my buddies 70 6.1 Cuda. It just doesn't have the sound or feel of a Mopar big block. And my 440 is a mildly built. Also just say no to big wheels on a 68-70 B-body.
Talking about moving gas gages . . . .
I had a '67 bug that had a cable driven gas gage. (I think they changed to electric in '68) And, yes, you could watch the gas slosh back and forth. The great thing about it was when you were almost a empty, like about a quart you would see the needle stop at the bottom of its movement as the float hit the bottom of the tank.
Good times
What a cable driven gas gauge??? I think your wrong, very wrong. VW went from no gauge with a reserve lever to an electric gauge in 62 I think..
Agree. And if you cant keep your hands off - make sure to keep the original parts. (Extremely happy with my original 1986 gixxer 1100)
I call it the Chip Foose effect ,just because you have the talent to make those mods to a car doesn't meen you should. People watch these tv shows and then they want to add 22inch wheels and shave door handles remove drip rails ,flush windshields with no trim.In the end the car is just a cartoon of itself .
That is very true.
You nailed it Tony, once again 👍
I've said this for years. Well, two things. #1 - pick a theme for your car. Day Two, Street/Strip, Pro Touring, Resto-Mod.... and stick with it. Don't just attach a random bunch of crap and think it makes a nice car. It's like when you see a wildly custom car for sale for a ridiculous price. But the builder built it for HIMSELF, using HIS TASTES and modifications that he liked. Now trying to sell it for the amount of work put in. BUT, that car now only appeals to the person who built it. So that car sits for sale for MONTHS, even YEARS.
Well said. I've seen a dude dump 100k in a car and turn it from a classic into his very well polished personal art project. And I'd obviously rather have a clean stock example, if given the choice between the two, by a mile.
So true, wheels, upholstery and gauges are really important, I think.
I have imported some gauges from the US to UK from a 70's Mercruiser.
They are so nice, really well made, all metal construction, mostly brass, real chrome bezel and real glass.
Try to buy something new these days and you will be disappointed.
That's right I'm putting boat gauges on my car, it's a 1977 Chevrolet Opala, but I don't care because they look so good.
same. serviceability is huge for me. if i can look in the engine bay and get to everything its in the running.
Anyone who thinks that your sportster is a turd…doesn’t know what motorcycles are all about. Beautiful bike Tony!
That's why I love manual steering, brakes, and no A/C.
“Period correct “ for a reason
Even my motorcycle has oem mirrors … runs perfect as my 75 Pontiac daily driver . 20 or 200 miles at a time it’s no worries driving
You knocked it out of the park with this one. The coolest sounding car I ever heard was a '56 Ford 292 with dual exhaust. I know the technology is right up there with outdoor plumbing, but I don't care. For me, it rocks. I don't envy owning all the new tech.
I have to admit to being a bit of a knucklehead on gauges: I like analog style, and the soft/warm glow of old school bulbs. I don't really want them to pop, but just be at home... looking comfortable. And I do not want to read numbers usually: a visual map in my head makes a glance capture more, faster than numbered led/lcd segment readouts. I make one exception for an afr gauge.
What do I dislike the most? The 4x multi/multi function cluster on larger [cat] engine panels, but thats not a car or truck engine - gotta push a mode button like 8x to get data, which takes at least 10x longer than glancing at an analog cluster.
Warm white leds are nice 2200k gives real nice warm glow. I got 24v leds so they arent too bright at 12v. If you looked at the dash you would never know
I had a speed 3 Mazda once and I nodded it to 300 at the tire. I turned a competent car into a torque steering death machine. So I pitched it and bought a loaded 2012 Mustang GT with every factory performance option. I just cleaned up the tune and ran it. 11s in the quarter and totally streetable.
I like them stock to a point. The Mopar ammeter, gotta go,freaking fire hazard in the dash. While you bypass that, put in a bigger alternator so your lights shine brighter at idle at the stop lights. My Dakota starter doesn't sound old school, yet when it's 95° and vapor locking, it still starts before you kill the battery. Oh, use what ya got to get rid of the vapor lock too. When I bought mine in the 80s, I thought it handled and brakes like an Imperial. Got rid of the power brake booster. Put in offset upper control arm bushings for more caster. Recently , put in a borgeson steering box. Drives as good as my 2021 pickup now. It still drives like a Mopar, yet better. Oh yeah, AC fixed too with later model parts , much better than new too. Other than the starter, nobody can tell what has been done with the hood closed, and I smile a lot when I drive, which is often
I remember reading how dangerous ammeters are in print.
Well around 1995 in tech school I mentioned it to a classmate who had one in his Cutlass.
Wouldn't ya know ,next week we are sitting at a light and the sucker went poof.
We got it out and limped home and said ,holy💩 Ive heard of it but haven't seen it till now.
Totally need a Tony’s Tech Tips episode on ammeters
Alot of what you say was taken to heart on my 62 Meteor build. It's for driving, not for racing and not for others to be impressed by
Just a personal thought of mine.
Headlight bezels on SlagHammer.
My 47 Dodge pickup has a 230 flathead and a modern denso starter. I bought it from an engineer who said good starter cores were hard to find so he milled an adapter for the late model starter. Its also got stainless steel small block valves Chevy valves and I believe an Isky cam. In '57 the 230 had a BBD as an option for 132 hp - an early Super Six. It was that way when I bought it. Not really a hot rod but pretty simple. I love Mopar flathead sixes. With modern oils they will exceed 200,000 miles. Other than the Ford 8, the Mopar L-head 6 has the best following and make a good daily driver. They are dependable.
The sportster has the greatest sound over all the HD’s
So, happy you brought up the wheels.
Excellent video Tony, I've felt this way for years. Looking into a "Restored car" to see a digital dash after looking at the 20's or 22's simply
does not look right! I fully understand the need for larger rims for clearance when larger rotors/calipers are used, at the same time they simply look OFF.
I can have an opinion on your car but then again it's still your car to do as you wish. As for a Dakota Digital dash in an otherwise
restored Mustang - uh, NO!
To finally see someone clarify that "Mag" wheels are actually made from MAGNESIUM is so refreshing! When I hear wide tires referred to as "Mags"
it's absolutely cringeworthy! Hearing the same comment about a factory custom wheel is almost the same, as if any kind of shiny rim or wide tire
must be called a MAG. Sorry Tony but even though I'm a nonviolent person I feel these people deserve a "Slap upside the head!"
Thanks again Uncle T!
Personally I love most old 4 doors. I want something to cruise around town and look cool in. I always get hate for picking a 4 door over a 2 door people asking why I'm wasting my time/money.
Those people arent in it for the cars.
@@Sak-zo1ui Yup, or there looking at it for the resale value.
And these same 4 door hater people wouldn't be caught dead in a modern standard cab (2 door) pick up.
Truth is there is usually a huge difference in condition between 2 and 4 door vintage cars these days. Many of the two door cars have been beat to death and rebuilt 2 or 3 times, whereas it's for the most part not so hard to find an unmolested, low mile original paint 4 door. '57 Chevy's are a good example of this.
@@Freedomquest08 Yep I know down south where I am a badly rusted out basket case early Camaro is $10K plus, I picked up a straight 62 Chrysler 300 4 door hard top with only rust in the front floor pans in trade for a 62 Falcon.
But I only have one friend lmao
So true Tony. I like simple 60’s type vehicles for that very reason. My new vehicles are amazing and perform but if it’s a rare model and fails no one wants to work on them and what to do if the ECM fails. If I buy again I will make sure there are millions of them so I can get support. Or I buy an older vehicle.
I agree. The 48 Sportster is my sweet spot. I love it so much. I had a 2011 48 Sportster that I had to sell unfortunately. Now i have a 2006 Roadster and its is great! I want to do a 48 Sportster front end swap. The big front tires look sweet. I ride alot and long distance so I bought a Road king. But every now and then I ride the Sportster and it just feels right. I agree, the Sportster is just a great knock around bike. Big enough to ride anywhere, but not so big that it's impossible to throw around.
You're right about the paint UT, when I use base/clear on the 60's stuff ot looks weird, I usually go single stage urethane instead, it looks more authentic but still better then 60's or 70's stock. Just loaded videos today showing that in white on a firebird
Tony,. Have you ever played with a Rover V8. I'm in the UK so never worked on any MOPAR engines but the Rover seems architecturally very similar to a 318.
Loving the channel, keep up the great content.
I like that lady in England she has that channel? Works on bikes and has nice boobs!!
Tony, I couldn't agree with you more. You hit the nail on the head. When you modernize an old car you take the soul out of it. I prefere period correct aftermarket parts because there made during the same time period. I'm all for modern technology as long as I don't see or hear it. Hot rodding has always been about putting that modern more powerful engine in an older car ( flathead ford v8 into a model T or A , then a small block chevy replacing the flathead). It matches that time period. I wouldn't put an ls in a street rod, but some will. Look at resto mods. All modern drive train, suspension and amenities in an old car. It looks and performs great, but it's a modern car. I'd rather buy a new performance car. Great video.
Hi Tony. If you want to get the birds out of the shop, leave the shop door open about 2 feet and turn the lights off. If it's light outside they'll let themselves out
Tony gets it. My neighbor bought a later Challenger that ooked cool in white with contrasting black graphics. He added black window tint that negated that stark contrast. Took all the charm right outta that car.
Your analysis of the Sportster is so true, so damn funny! I had an 02 Sportster Sport XL1200S. Solid mount. It was absolutely delicious, even at 60mph but by about 65 mph it turned into a vibrating jackhammer.
Within minutes, my feet, hands and johnson (lol) were turning numb!
Dont get me wrong, the torque and tall gearing were amazing, such a relaxed ride, but the vibration was insane.
But just like yourself, most of my riding was around town; the 50-100 mile day, there was no way I'd drive that Sporty any further!
I fully agree with this man's way of looking at these cars.
I had a 2000 1200 sportster. Loved it. Had all the power I wanted
Lol yeah my first ride was a 1968 Chevy truck and that's how I knew if I could make it to Nashville where gas was cheaper....I rocked the steering wheel back and forth to see if the gas guage would move, if it didn't I stopped at the local store and got a couple gallons before heading to town 😂
I agree 100 % Old school car, When your redoing it, Keep it Original / Period Correct, nothing looks more stupid than 20 inch Wheels with Rubber Band Tires on 60's 70's Car / Truck
You nailed it I’m building a 69 chevelle with a big block. I want nothing to do with cross over exhaust. I just gotta figure out what muffler’s to run for that 1977 sound and find that 5 band equalizer and a pair of Jensen Triaxle III’s
Cherry 🍒 bomb glass packs!
I thought a Dakota dashboard was one from a Dodge Dakota. I couldn't figure out way Kiwi was putting one in something else.
The older i get the more i appreciate a factory condition vehicle
My uncle had a 62 MGA, I remember riding in it when I was a kid, the gas gauge was always moving back and forth. Before the whole anti slosh baffles, the speedo bounced a bit too. Such a fun car even though it wasn't fast it cornered like it was on rails.
I think you have very valid points. The way I think about is this. You can’t get caught in the middle. What I means is; if you plan to modify a car you need to be either closer to the original style and astatic or clearly modified with a purpose. I think when you end up in the middle of the two the car becomes confusing. I don’t know if I’m explaining this well, but when I mod a car I try and make it so that when someone looks at it they say, ‘ok, that was done for a reason’.
Good video. With reference to the feel of older cars, radial tires will usually destroy that feel on cars that weren't designed for them. This is particularly true on the stifly-sprung unit body Chrysler Cotporation cars; radials will also deteriorate the handling of these cars.
Such a good video. I wasn’t able to articulate it as well as you but I’ve been saying the same thing about the emotional component of cars
The vibration that's why I like Softail Evo .. it really helps my arthritis. 😁
Hi there, I thought I’d just let you know how useful I find your videos . I’m in the planning stage of my Ford 100e Prefect project (uk viewer). Your videos are really getting me to think about what I want and how I plan to go about doing it. Keep up the good work.
You have to start with a completed vision. Without it the end result is incongruous.
Tony, i agree for the most part. I love old classics & i am obsessed with serviceability, obtainability of parts, & mechanical simplicity. There are exceptions to this. I have a 67 impala that is in need of power steering, because parking this thing is nothing but stressful haha
Adding what was a factory option is not really changing anything.
I agree with you about many things, and to each their own on their individual choices for their builds. I personally prefer an OEM+ look for my more modern car, basically building it "the best that it could be" with factory-level parts from more performance oriented cars, or to use the old adage "how it should have came from the factory".
With my 68 Catalina, since it is mostly original, my goal has been to keep it as stock appearing as possible, with only NOS replacement and "options" that would have came from the factory had it been ordered that way. It was a base car, but I've added the AM/FM radio, in-dash clock, and up-level chrome interior trim that didnt come with the base trim. Other things are just normal wear-and-tear replacement items.
Great video, Tony! Totally agree, that the experience has to be considered in the build plan.
One thing that will totally turn me off from an otherwise good classic car build, is big rims with FWD looking offset.
Just horrible!
I'm guilty of modifications, it's been my life since I learned how to ride a bike.
Although my daily driver is bone stock, a 4runner with nearly 300k on it, the only reason I buy old cars is to mess with them.
Currently creating an autocross car from a mopar abody, a 72 scamp that has tripled its meager factory horsepower and lost about 300 pounds.
I wake up thinking about cam profiles.
Perhaps it's the machinist in me but my mental engineering projects help me not think politics and or the current state of our world.
I need this...lol
Nailed it. I like Kaiser-Willys/Willys jeeps (CJ-5, CJ-6, CJ-3B, ...) because of the simplicity. No need to change anything (eventhough the brakes suck).
Great advice ...I did that when I started building my 49 Studebaker gasser on my channel
I had a discussion in this same vein with my dad about lighting on his classic Farmall tractor. My dad found an LED light upgrade kit that he thinks is amazing because it's so bright, but to me it's just garish, blue, blinding circus bulbs. From his perspective - it's new technology, the LEDs last forever, they're brighter - what's not to love. I tried to explain to him color temperature, and light spectrum curves, and color rendering index, and it just went over his head.
As it should, is he using the tractor? Better lights are great! Is he restoring it OE lights all the way. Those old lights didn't shine past the front of the tractor. His LEDs light up the whole field. That's all he cares about.
It comes down to, Can he see better or not? If it works for him, why not?
@@joew8440 I'm not going to argue with results. And certainly I'm not going to argue 1940s engineers had the final say, because LED technology didn't even exist.
However in my dad's particular case it was more of a side-grade. Or it wasn't as good as it could have been. LEDs have their own compromises that a lot of people aren't aware of. Basic ones only output a single wavelength of light (I'm not talking one color, it's within a few nanometers of a single wavelength). If a cheap "white" LED bulb just combines one red, blue, and green wavelength to appear white, it won't be able to light up objects of different colors with the same intensity as an incandescent bulb, or actual daylight will. Also blue LEDs can be more intense at lower power, so manufacturers can cheat by shipping a light that dominates in the blue spectrum and has big lumens number printed on the box. Finally those blue favored lights can overpower our eyes in low light conditions. Floating point reflections like snow or dust will tend to dazzle human vision when lit up with blue dominant light. However we tend to be less sensitive to red tinted light, which is why auxiliay fog lamps, brake lights, etc. tend to be red or amber.
His eyes are different, they change the older one gets. Ask how I know, I’m 77.