I had a problem with my pressed in rocker studs pulling out in my SBC, because I put a bigger than stock cam and stiffer springs to keep the valves from floating at higher RPMs. My friends were all like, "take the heads to a machine shop and have them install screw in rocker studs". An older friend took me aside and told me to buy some hardened roll pins and a couple of the correct size drill bits. He gave me all the info I needed and even offered to help at a later date, but not to tell anyone. Drilling and pinning the studs worked like a charm and didn't cost me an arm and a leg. He was known to us as "Uncle Kenny", sound familiar? Love your videos, keep passing on that Old School Knowledge.
@@Moparmaga-1 with flipping the rods comes better angularity at max cylinder pressure which for most engines, especially naturally aspirated ones that run out of cylinder pressure so early in the power stroke, will make more horsepower even to peak, assuming the RPM isn't so high that you begin to mechanically "outrun" the power stroke, in which case advancing ignition beyond what is considered safe would make or break the engine for a few extra horsepower.... but for a street motor making peak at well below 7000rpm its a great modification
@@dylanhartz8473 Seems like this will increase compression, since it will raise the piston. How does this effect requirements for timing and fuel octane?
@@MultiPleaser moving the pin slightly off of center on a piston shouldn't affect how high it climbs in the cylinder, only how early or late it will reach TDC relative to the crankshaft rotation so compression should remain the same... it will however change the ignition timing because the piston will reach TDC earlier on crank rotation after the flip procedure which would mean 0 degrees on the timing marks doesn't exactly mean TDC on the piston, the piston will have already past TDC by a few degrees and will need to either be compensated with new timing marks or if you know your vehicle you could remember how many degrees advanced to set it.... hope that helps explain it, its easier with a visual aid
@@dylanhartz8473 I redrew the visual aid in my head, and you're right. But, only if the cylinder is aligned radially outwards from the center of the crank. I've read about some that are slightly askew, nowhere near tangential, but definitely off. That must have been what threw me off.
Worked around cars for 30 years, dealerships, speed shops and shade trees. This man is the real deal! Reminds me of the seasoned old mechanic that taught me so much and how to work that I could never repay him. Pay attention young bucks this is how we did it before software and computers and thank this man showing you why and how!
Pro tip- practice awhile first on several old worthless valves and try different files or other grinding polishing items and get real comfortable before you do this on you good valves . Tony can just do it as it were becuase he has been doing it his whole life and has good skills
When I was in college one of my drafting instructors was preparing a hypothetical situation. He asked, "who's got an example of something at least 400 pounds". He was hoping for something like "a car engine" but I yelled out "MY MOTHER INLAW!!!" The poor guy, it took at least ten minutes before he and the rest of the class was able to composes themselves. I'll never forget that if I live to be a hundred!
I do the valve back cut but didn't think about the tips on curving the exhaust and edging the intake. Was taught about the piston pin in my A&P course but when I looked at engines I rebuilt I didn't see it was offset so I gave up on it years ago and forgot about it, LOL. I usually do a basic power combo on the parts going into a stock engine of mine that I rebuild, knowing it will be getting bolt on parts. Usually enhances the bolt on parts when done. Bowl porting, polishing piston rod beam, valve back cut, distributor recurve, And a shit load of deburring, LOL.
There is no true evidence about reversing piston hp/torque gains. One guy from mopar forum tried to dyno difference and on 350hp engine difference was less than 1%, which is can be dyno error. And he can't state that he got any true gain from that. That difference can come even from air humidity and temperature.
This video is what Hot Rodding is all about. Nothing more and nothing less. Thank You Tony. I thought all the "real" old school badasses were extinct until I found your channel
It would be very interesting to see a stock engine be tuned with all these little tricks and see how it does, no fancy new parts, just these small things that is shown on the channel
Never heard about flipping the piston like that, but I'm getting into it with VW type 1's, and I believe they're all symmetrical pistons. Neat trick. I just read an old book on porting heads, it mentioned similar things about the valves. I saw some flow charts showing quite a lot of improvement with a 3 angle valve job, but even those simple tricks make a significant difference.
I also want to say, now that I watched all the video, between you and Gale Banks, you both make me smile when you explain how things work. It is guys like you and Banks that help keep me going when it comes to cars, even Hondas. You guys are my kind of heroes, the ones that share your knowledge freely, and in such a laid back sort of way :) I am so glad I found this channel!
Great video. Brings back fond memories. Don't tell all our old secrets. Lol. My old boss (Herb White- Speed Specialties, Union, NJ) loved saying There's no substitution for cubic inches. I'll keep watching you brother.
You are a National treasure Uncle Tony ! This information has been more useful than the last four American Presidents and the sum total of Congress and Senate !
You remind me so much of my dad and grandfather. Old school little tid bits just to get a little bit more hp and run a little more efficient. Love your videos pop!!!!
I remember reading about similar things a few years ago. It was a book by a prominent Circle track racer from the 60's. Like you said Uncle Tony, this holds pretty well much for all engine makes, and I can see how the small things like this can be easily missed and not be addressed. It was until you actually showed these that I remembered the Book where the bloke was talking about chev engines in particular. Cheers for the video Uncle Tony :-)
Piston pin offset trick was used by Formula V (Volkswagen open wheel) engines, "free horsepower" I think the Formula V all parts had to be OEM VW. Third gear from a VW typ ll (Bus) was desirable over the stock sedan due to closer ratio. Re sizing the intake manifold with a set of ball bearings pushed through. Pulling everything out of the OEM carb that offered any restriction, including the removable venturi.
I love hearing about these old school tricks, can listen for days. Cant mention the builder but have had the opportunity to borescope one-off motors that nobody was allowed into trying to learn something and pick up anything i could. Needless to say borescoping didnt tell me everything but the mere taboo of it was just plain cool.
Love Your videos! I have done moderate, scooter, motorcycle, or briggs and Straton type engine work, but am learning a lot from these! I have a 1990 B250 custom van with the 318 and I'm planned on doing some work on it getting it up and running a bit better. My Dad wanted to soup it up but never got to before he Passed away.
Good stuff Tony. Maximum torque is transferred when the connecting rod and crank are 90° to each other. This will happened earlier when the Piston are higher up in the cylinder, under more pressure. I didn't know that flat spot right before the seat was for emissions purposes on the Valves.. thanks!
Common sense, hands-on, inexpensive tricks & tips- not to mention entertaining to watch...making old rides more affordable & enjoyable. Great work "Uncle Tony & 'Uncle' Kathy!"
I used a file on the intake valve and a Dremel die grinder with a grind stone for the harder steel on the exhaust valve. You can also use a flapper wheel for the die grinder and swirl polish the valves for maximum cool looks and a little more flow.
I chuck up valves in the press and use a drill with a wire wheel spinning the opposite direction to clean them up really well before cutting faces. I also use the drill to lap them...much faster than the old "doodle" stick. A little paste, 4 seconds fwd/4 sec reverse x2 usually does the trick. Check everything with a sharpie if you don't have any dycum blue. Also, if you want a little "free" valve spring weight, toss in a shim or two. A lot of guys request we don't install valve guide seals on the exhaust so that a little oil leaks down through the guide on purpose just to ensure they don't seize when getting super hot on the track.
Your a beast uncle tony. Made me better at cleaning up my valves. I’ve never took the lip off by the seat. I only did it on the exshaust. Never the intake like that. Thank you Made more sense when you said it.
@@sixpacksandsrts9122 - Can't have it. I played his channel name like he played his channel name. My name's Tommy, my last name starts with an 'L'. TommyFuckYeah TommyHellYeah You probably get it. I gave 'em credit in my "about channel".
Them some rough neck tactics for sure, but it's free horsepower! This dude is exactly right with what hes explaining and doing. Just be very careful with them valve seat sealing surfaces on the valves with that file. If u hit that area and the valves dont seal to the valve seats anymore, you just went backwards. Nice video man!
Another "free" mod I just remembered: removing the head gasket. This is like an expensive head milling job, or buying expensive high compression pistons. However, you need some awesome chemical gasket of some sort. Definitely not free, but cheap.
Have been back cutting valves for years. Read years ago that the max vacuum from the piston is right when it starts to travel down and the intake valve just starts to open. When that happens you can get way more air/fuel mixture into the cylinder when vacuum is at max suction by back cutting that lip.
For me and all the RUclips videos when I really need to know something I always refer to your videos because so far you've been right on everything then I have done according to your directions on your video
I tried this on my ford 302 and it works, really!!! It's my drive daily f150 and it's not stock except the block. Long story short cracked a piston and changed it before it broke apart, saved the engine. I heard about that and while the motor was apart I did what UT said and dropped 18 tents off my 1/4 mile time. This is what I could do differently on the tune. Whet from 35 degrees adv. to 38 degrees and the motor revs alot faster, quicker. Also not knocking or funny sounds and wait for it, I'm at 23 plus thousand miles and no burning oil or any problems. It's a 95 ford f150 5.0 12.37 1/4 mile all motor.
Hey bud, you have the same tool box as me. So glad NOT to see a $12,000 Snapped Off toolbox so tall, you need a ladder to pull tools from the top drawers. I work at a Dealership. My best bud next bay, is 5'4" with a snapped off toolbox & he used a step ladder to get tools.
Man I search for car stuff all the time, how the hell am I just now finding this channel? Great stuff sir and the poster on the wall was back when Marines were still allowed to use the knife hand in combat...
Great video, Uncles, and with a blooper, no less. Ready for a question on how this applies to the slant 6? Okay. Since there are no opposite banks on the slant 6, which pistons get swapped to account for rod chamfer? Do the even holes get switched with the odd, or 1,2, and 3 with 4, 5, and 6, or what? And by the way, great close-up work. The lighting and focus were excellent. No dim bulbs or pesky shadows.I could see all the relevant detail of the valves and pistons.
Thanks Tony. You gave me the answer on your live stream: On the slant six, only the piston, not the rod, can be reversed because the direction of the oil hole on the rod can't be changed. But it has the same affect as reversing the piston and switching banks as you would do on a V8. That's pretty ingenious. I thought the primary benefit came from reversing the rod, but it actually comes from reversing the piston. Hmmm. But it's easier if you reverse and switch banks, like on a V8, because you don't have to remove the piston pin. Yeah.
Good stuff Tony! Reminds me of going to the drag strip in the late 70s and seeing this good ole boy running a 55 chevy with a small block and hes running 11s and you look under the hood and there's nothing but a greasy looking small block. I asked him how much hp he was making and said probably about 375. I'm thinking BS hes making probably 500.
I appreciate everything you say!!, and do!!, Uncle Tony's garage (Tony)!!! Since you're old school, please talk [explain], about back pressure and why you need it!!, A LOT OF "FAKEBOOK"!!, PEOPLE THINK THEY KNOW IT ALL!!, BUT NEVER TOUCH AN ENGINE IN THEIR LIFE!!, LITERALLY!!!!!
The phrase back pressure is the real problem, you need to maintain velocity for exhaust scavenging. You don't want to hold the exhaust gas in, you want the exhaust gas to pull other exhaust gas out with its pulse as it travels through. Exhaust explodes out, pulse helps get any lingering hot gasses out creating a low pressure helping pull air and fuel in. Tapering the size of the pipes as the reach their end is best, as the velocity decreases you restrict the flow to maintain pressure. Let the atmospheric pressure being lower pull it the rest of the way out. Here is the best vid to throw at the facebook goons ruclips.net/video/jjPeP_Nn2B4/видео.html
Backpressure? No, back pressure is never good. You're thinking of having some sort of exhaust collector like a manifold or header to aid in scavenging the exhaust gasses.
Very cool tips! Of course now you’re going to cause arguments between the machine shops and engine builders who know it all and the diy’er who (they think) doesn’t know anything. Can’t wait to learn more power tips. Thanks Smokey Jr.! 😂
I worked on cars for 12 years professionally and l lost interest. Here more than 25 years after leaving with no interest ran into this channel. So well done, such a great guy, I'm interested!
Its a good thing there are dudes like you still around. Otherwise someone might do everything the internet says and blow the shit out of their engine:)
These are all the ol'school tricks. i picked up an old Sioux valve grinder to do those valve tricks, and still finish my seats with stones. We built two motors with the same parts several years ago. One by a 70 year old engine builder who spent decade in the lower classes of circle track with very restrictive rule books and claimer rules. The other by a 28 year old mechanic, working in a high volume engine shop. One motor made just under 290hp, and the other made 330hp. A 10% difference in power with the same parts, castings, and unported heads. They were the motors for a challenger class car running at the local speedway. These speed tricks work. There isn't a single one that will give you 20hp, but 4hp here, and 6hp there adds up quick.
Related question. Maybe you could do a quick video explaining pros and cons. Q- is there anything to gain by adding heavier valve springs is it worth the money or are we better off using the standard ones and doing a good valve lap job by hand?
Man I’m getting a 1990 Dodge Ram charger with a 360 and I was going to swap it with a newer efi 5.9 but after watching your channel imma take a whack at building it 🤘
So, I had heard of back facing valves, but had never actually been shown what that is...... Very awesome to learn! And, as it turns out, back facing the valves in the old Honda engines I have been working with is not needed. The factory intake valves may benefit from cleaning up the edge like you were showing with the near knife edging, but other than that, means I do not have any work to put into the valves beyond grinding them to the seats. :)
These “old school” tricks for HP gains make sense in theory but have they been tested on a dyno? Since you are decreasing weight/size/structural integrity of the valves have you had any experience of bent or broken valves after theses alterations? Just curious.
Tony thank you for all the great advice. I have 1964 426w motor in my 1970 cuda. If you have any more old school trick please let me know. Correacuda Robert
I originally learner this trick off of my teacher in school. (Used to build drag racing engines) when I reminded him of it, he asked me why it is only possible with cast iron pistons and gave me and the class an explanation online today. It may benefit everyone here if you could explain why you can only do this with cast iron pistons and not forged or billet.
I did this to a 273 commando formula s cuda and gained with fenderwell headers about a 100 horsepower,enough to go from 14.2 in the quarter to 12.9 no other changes,and that's a fact,and around 800 more rpm,over carbing is the biggest problem most racers do,never fails,and now that carbs are 400+ dollars each in the box, always start smaller,never build an engine over stock more than 15% if you want to retain fuel economy,he's pretty smart,these tricks were handed down to me by a master engine and trans builder who used to run AA fuel dragsters,i apprenticed under him,man was a genius in 1969
its a lot more than that,remember the factory built my engine ,your engine to go to the grocery store and never rev beyond 4200 even passing on the hiway,it reduces friction dramatically
@@strattuner hey brother very cool of you to share your experience. I'm 34 years old, and I'm a ford guy, been involved with mustang 5.0L (old school 302's), and 4.6L (281) both 2valve and 4valves. Ive done alot of the same tricks he is talking about and even down to indexing the plugs. What I'm wondering with the piston flip is, did you have your engine balanced again? Also, did you notice any slight vibrations when you switched them? If you can give me a shout back, thanks!
Using my wifes account here. Old school mechanic myself with decades of experience. Changing the pin offset. Will gain between one hp - four hp per cylinder. It depends on several things such as bore, head flow and camshaft mainly.
These tips are actually in the Mopar engine bible. The valve cuts of 15, 22 and 45 degrees. If you want an engine that shakes like a paint shaker or if you want an engine that's noisy loud. What folks don't know it costs less to build a mopar. You can reuse head, rod and crank bolts. The umbrella valves are chrysler's swirl ports. I like the J and L heads for swap outs.
Back in the day, these tips were called SPEED SECRETS. There were held close to the vest of engine builders.
Thank you Uncle Tony for sharing.
Nice to know, I wanna give my 79 Buick lesabre with a v8 some more power.
"If that bothers you, you're watching the wrong channel." 😆
But what about gas millage????
@@dancage2446 looks like dan forgot about jokes.
Priceless
@@xtune5731 I think so.
I had a problem with my pressed in rocker studs pulling out in my SBC, because I put a bigger than stock cam and stiffer springs to keep the valves from floating at higher RPMs. My friends were all like, "take the heads to a machine shop and have them install screw in rocker studs". An older friend took me aside and told me to buy some hardened roll pins and a couple of the correct size drill bits. He gave me all the info I needed and even offered to help at a later date, but not to tell anyone. Drilling and pinning the studs worked like a charm and didn't cost me an arm and a leg. He was known to us as "Uncle Kenny", sound familiar? Love your videos, keep passing on that Old School Knowledge.
Uncle Tony is an American treasure.
"Uncle Kathy" too. Fixes the bloopers ... ;)
My dad used to call one of our dogs "Treasure", he couldn't wait for the dog to die so he could bury him.
Uncle Treasure
The weird thing is that I typed my comment before I even saw this, lol.
That means it's true.
Doesn't actually smoke. Carries a cigarette in case he ever wants to start.
Should Dyno a control engine built normal and one with all the old school tricks with the same hardware and see which one makes more power
Tre'von Cowen
I would be curious as to the difference myself
@@Moparmaga-1 with flipping the rods comes better angularity at max cylinder pressure which for most engines, especially naturally aspirated ones that run out of cylinder pressure so early in the power stroke, will make more horsepower even to peak, assuming the RPM isn't so high that you begin to mechanically "outrun" the power stroke, in which case advancing ignition beyond what is considered safe would make or break the engine for a few extra horsepower.... but for a street motor making peak at well below 7000rpm its a great modification
@@dylanhartz8473 Seems like this will increase compression, since it will raise the piston. How does this effect requirements for timing and fuel octane?
@@MultiPleaser moving the pin slightly off of center on a piston shouldn't affect how high it climbs in the cylinder, only how early or late it will reach TDC relative to the crankshaft rotation so compression should remain the same... it will however change the ignition timing because the piston will reach TDC earlier on crank rotation after the flip procedure which would mean 0 degrees on the timing marks doesn't exactly mean TDC on the piston, the piston will have already past TDC by a few degrees and will need to either be compensated with new timing marks or if you know your vehicle you could remember how many degrees advanced to set it.... hope that helps explain it, its easier with a visual aid
@@dylanhartz8473 I redrew the visual aid in my head, and you're right. But, only if the cylinder is aligned radially outwards from the center of the crank. I've read about some that are slightly askew, nowhere near tangential, but definitely off. That must have been what threw me off.
Worked around cars for 30 years, dealerships, speed shops and shade trees. This man is the real deal! Reminds me of the seasoned old mechanic that taught me so much and how to work that I could never repay him. Pay attention young bucks this is how we did it before software and computers and thank this man showing you why and how!
I can feel the old world car in this guy. I love it. It feels like home. These plastic built engines suck. Thank you Uncle!!!
Pro tip- practice awhile first on several old worthless valves and try different files or other grinding polishing items and get real comfortable before you do this on you good valves .
Tony can just do it as it were becuase he has been doing it his whole life and has good skills
The end was hilarious,, you really know your stuff, this guy Tony is a gifted master mechanic,,much respect
Leaving my mother in law at the curb, I gain about 20 horses!
One less Airbag for your car😂🤣😂
When I was in college one of my drafting instructors was preparing a hypothetical situation. He asked, "who's got an example of something at least 400 pounds". He was hoping for something like "a car engine" but I yelled out "MY MOTHER INLAW!!!" The poor guy, it took at least ten minutes before he and the rest of the class was able to composes themselves. I'll never forget that if I live to be a hundred!
Hey that's bound to happen when her bra size is 401k
😅🤣
I like to polish the valve after i do everything you just did people wouldnt believe how much power you can make by reworking cylinder heads.
I do the valve back cut but didn't think about the tips on curving the exhaust and edging the intake. Was taught about the piston pin in my A&P course but when I looked at engines I rebuilt I didn't see it was offset so I gave up on it years ago and forgot about it, LOL. I usually do a basic power combo on the parts going into a stock engine of mine that I rebuild, knowing it will be getting bolt on parts. Usually enhances the bolt on parts when done. Bowl porting, polishing piston rod beam, valve back cut, distributor recurve, And a shit load of deburring, LOL.
An excellent tip as usual. Speaking of clacking motors...you here my old 318 when it fires up at -30C. Lol. Block heaters are a must. Be safe UTG 👍
First video I've seen explaining piston swap, that I can properly understand why, and the benefits. Budget builds suit me fine.
There is no true evidence about reversing piston hp/torque gains. One guy from mopar forum tried to dyno difference and on 350hp engine difference was less than 1%, which is can be dyno error. And he can't state that he got any true gain from that. That difference can come even from air humidity and temperature.
I'll bet this is a lot of fun for those of us who have 32 valve engines...
If you have a 32 valve engine you're watching the wrong channel😉
@@matsgranqvist9928 lol I do have a 16 valve engine.....(happens to be a 4 cylinder).
Yeah I was just kidding🙂
@@matsgranqvist9928
I know 👍
Mats Granqvist If only we had gotten a 32 Valve Doomsday Hemi
You sound really knowledgable at everything I've heard you talking about in a few videos, you've earned yourself an instant subscriber here.
This video is what Hot Rodding is all about. Nothing more and nothing less. Thank You Tony. I thought all the "real" old school badasses were extinct until I found your channel
I will never get tired of awesome information videos like these about the nitty-gritty internal tricks of making power.
It would be very interesting to see a stock engine be tuned with all these little tricks and see how it does, no fancy new parts, just these small things that is shown on the channel
I just found this channel a coupla weeks ago. This guy is for real, all go, plus great show. Already one of my favorite channels.
Great share 👍👍👍👍
Uncle Tony AKA “ THE DODGE FATHER “ . Great video . Cheers
Never heard about flipping the piston like that, but I'm getting into it with VW type 1's, and I believe they're all symmetrical pistons. Neat trick. I just read an old book on porting heads, it mentioned similar things about the valves. I saw some flow charts showing quite a lot of improvement with a 3 angle valve job, but even those simple tricks make a significant difference.
I also want to say, now that I watched all the video, between you and Gale Banks, you both make me smile when you explain how things work. It is guys like you and Banks that help keep me going when it comes to cars, even Hondas. You guys are my kind of heroes, the ones that share your knowledge freely, and in such a laid back sort of way :) I am so glad I found this channel!
Great video. Brings back fond memories. Don't tell all our old secrets. Lol. My old boss (Herb White- Speed Specialties, Union, NJ) loved saying There's no substitution for cubic inches. I'll keep watching you brother.
You are a National treasure Uncle Tony ! This information has been more useful than the last four American Presidents and the sum total of Congress and Senate !
You remind me so much of my dad and grandfather. Old school little tid bits just to get a little bit more hp and run a little more efficient. Love your videos pop!!!!
I remember reading about similar things a few years ago. It was a book by a prominent Circle track racer from the 60's. Like you said Uncle Tony, this holds pretty well much for all engine makes, and I can see how the small things like this can be easily missed and not be addressed. It was until you actually showed these that I remembered the Book where the bloke was talking about chev engines in particular. Cheers for the video Uncle Tony :-)
the world still needs guys like this.... Its a dying trade
THATs an understatement 👍👍👍
In another 20 years few people alive will actually be messing with engines.🤬
His tips on back cutting valve's works great. You can also do a real nice job in a old suex valve grinder machine
I found this channel last night. This is hands down the best channel on RUclips. 👍
I backcut the valves on a Pontiac 350 years ago and that engine made impressive power for what it was. I think helps the low lift flow considerably.
Excellent. I knew of the 3 angle valve grind. But I never thought to file them myself. Game changer!
Every great show has bloopers. Thanks for the info AND the bloopers 😂
"If that bothers you, you're watching the wrong channel" Perfection!
Piston pin offset trick was used by Formula V (Volkswagen open wheel) engines, "free horsepower" I think the Formula V all parts had to be OEM VW. Third gear from a VW typ ll (Bus) was desirable over the stock sedan due to closer ratio. Re sizing the intake manifold with a set of ball bearings pushed through. Pulling everything out of the OEM carb that offered any restriction, including the removable venturi.
Emissions? I have heard of those things. I think mine is the pcv valve.
I love hearing about these old school tricks, can listen for days. Cant mention the builder but have had the opportunity to borescope one-off motors that nobody was allowed into trying to learn something and pick up anything i could. Needless to say borescoping didnt tell me everything but the mere taboo of it was just plain cool.
Now we know where you get your knowledge... We can distinctly hear Mona from My Cousin Vinny telling you what to say at the end! LoL !
This is the kind of tuning that I like! All these little thing. :D They each don't do too much, but all combined give a little extra.
Love Your videos! I have done moderate, scooter, motorcycle, or briggs and Straton type engine work, but am learning a lot from these! I have a 1990 B250 custom van with the 318 and I'm planned on doing some work on it getting it up and running a bit better. My Dad wanted to soup it up but never got to before he Passed away.
Good stuff Tony. Maximum torque is transferred when the connecting rod and crank are 90° to each other. This will happened earlier when the Piston are higher up in the cylinder, under more pressure. I didn't know that flat spot right before the seat was for emissions purposes on the Valves.. thanks!
Common sense, hands-on, inexpensive tricks & tips- not to mention entertaining to watch...making old rides more affordable & enjoyable. Great work "Uncle Tony & 'Uncle' Kathy!"
I used a file on the intake valve and a Dremel die grinder with a grind stone for the harder steel on the exhaust valve. You can also use a flapper wheel for the die grinder and swirl polish the valves for maximum cool looks and a little more flow.
Love your videos Tony. Your have resurrected my desire to build a hot rod slant 6.
I chuck up valves in the press and use a drill with a wire wheel spinning the opposite direction to clean them up really well before cutting faces. I also use the drill to lap them...much faster than the old "doodle" stick. A little paste, 4 seconds fwd/4 sec reverse x2 usually does the trick. Check everything with a sharpie if you don't have any dycum blue. Also, if you want a little "free" valve spring weight, toss in a shim or two. A lot of guys request we don't install valve guide seals on the exhaust so that a little oil leaks down through the guide on purpose just to ensure they don't seize when getting super hot on the track.
Thank you for your knowledge. This video is the first YOU TUBE video that taught me something. I have watched over 1000 videos.
This is what I like, free h.p. tips I can do in my garage. Thanks.
Your a beast uncle tony. Made me better at cleaning up my valves. I’ve never took the lip off by the seat. I only did it on the exshaust. Never the intake like that. Thank you Made more sense when you said it.
I luv the free oldschool hp tips,pls keep 'em comin,thx uncle Tony 👍today im building a honda k24a1 for my 03 CR-V
Honda Gang
TommyLYeah - Darkwraith Kaid tommyfyeah wants his name back
@@sixpacksandsrts9122 - Can't have it.
I played his channel name like he played his channel name. My name's Tommy, my last name starts with an 'L'.
TommyFuckYeah
TommyHellYeah
You probably get it.
I gave 'em credit in my "about channel".
I appreciate you doing these videos. This really helps hotrodders of all brands.
I love these bits of knowledge you pass on Uncle Tony.
Cheers😊
Old school at its best. Thanks Uncle Tony
Wish i'd seen this before my rebuild 18 mths ago ha ha! Great stuff, thanks for sharing your knowledge👍
Them some rough neck tactics for sure, but it's free horsepower! This dude is exactly right with what hes explaining and doing. Just be very careful with them valve seat sealing surfaces on the valves with that file. If u hit that area and the valves dont seal to the valve seats anymore, you just went backwards. Nice video man!
Another "free" mod I just remembered: removing the head gasket. This is like an expensive head milling job, or buying expensive high compression pistons. However, you need some awesome chemical gasket of some sort. Definitely not free, but cheap.
Have been back cutting valves for years. Read years ago that the max vacuum from the piston is right when it starts to travel down and the intake valve just starts to open. When that happens you can get way more air/fuel mixture into the cylinder when vacuum is at max suction by back cutting that lip.
This is what happens when the cue cards are written in polish, and your talent is Italian...
Now THAT's good humor!lol!
For me and all the RUclips videos when I really need to know something I always refer to your videos because so far you've been right on everything then I have done according to your directions on your video
Dam Tony. You took me to school today. You have an elegant way of explaining complex concepts.
Thank you.
I tried this on my ford 302 and it works, really!!! It's my drive daily f150 and it's not stock except the block. Long story short cracked a piston and changed it before it broke apart, saved the engine. I heard about that and while the motor was apart I did what UT said and dropped 18 tents off my 1/4 mile time. This is what I could do differently on the tune. Whet from 35 degrees adv. to 38 degrees and the motor revs alot faster, quicker. Also not knocking or funny sounds and wait for it, I'm at 23 plus thousand miles and no burning oil or any problems. It's a 95 ford f150 5.0 12.37 1/4 mile all motor.
Hey bud, you have the same tool box as me. So glad NOT to see a $12,000 Snapped Off toolbox so tall, you need a ladder to pull tools from the top drawers. I work at a Dealership. My best bud next bay, is 5'4" with a snapped off toolbox & he used a step ladder to get tools.
Thankyou for sharing and helping people
Man I search for car stuff all the time, how the hell am I just now finding this channel? Great stuff sir and the poster on the wall was back when Marines were still allowed to use the knife hand in combat...
Great video, Uncles, and with a blooper, no less. Ready for a question on how this applies to the slant 6? Okay. Since there are no opposite banks on the slant 6, which pistons get swapped to account for rod chamfer? Do the even holes get switched with the odd, or 1,2, and 3 with 4, 5, and 6, or what? And by the way, great close-up work. The lighting and focus were excellent. No dim bulbs or pesky shadows.I could see all the relevant detail of the valves and pistons.
Thanks Tony. You gave me the answer on your live stream: On the slant six, only the piston, not the rod, can be reversed because the direction of the oil hole on the rod can't be changed. But it has the same affect as reversing the piston and switching banks as you would do on a V8. That's pretty ingenious. I thought the primary benefit came from reversing the rod, but it actually comes from reversing the piston. Hmmm. But it's easier if you reverse and switch banks, like on a V8, because you don't have to remove the piston pin. Yeah.
Love your channel man. Love you old school builders helping this young cat working on my 85 chevy 350
Thank you for sharing it’s great to know there are people who care about the mopar roots
I learn something new every time I watch an Uncle Tony video!👍😎
4:35 - 'Clatter' - reminds me that Christmas is only two months away. Santa loves clatter. Thanks for the tips. 🦌
Good stuff Tony! Reminds me of going to the drag strip in the late 70s and seeing this good ole boy running a 55 chevy with a small block and hes running 11s and you look under the hood and there's nothing but a greasy looking small block. I asked him how much hp he was making and said probably about 375. I'm thinking BS hes making probably 500.
Thank you sir!! I can watch hot rod videos like this all day
Good work Tony. Love your videos on O school hot rodding
I appreciate everything you say!!, and do!!, Uncle Tony's garage (Tony)!!! Since you're old school, please talk [explain], about back pressure and why you need it!!, A LOT OF "FAKEBOOK"!!, PEOPLE THINK THEY KNOW IT ALL!!, BUT NEVER TOUCH AN ENGINE IN THEIR LIFE!!, LITERALLY!!!!!
The phrase back pressure is the real problem, you need to maintain velocity for exhaust scavenging. You don't want to hold the exhaust gas in, you want the exhaust gas to pull other exhaust gas out with its pulse as it travels through. Exhaust explodes out, pulse helps get any lingering hot gasses out creating a low pressure helping pull air and fuel in. Tapering the size of the pipes as the reach their end is best, as the velocity decreases you restrict the flow to maintain pressure. Let the atmospheric pressure being lower pull it the rest of the way out. Here is the best vid to throw at the facebook goons ruclips.net/video/jjPeP_Nn2B4/видео.html
@@Lecherous_Rex I prefer (and need) to hear it from U.T.G.!!! The way he explains things?, is straight from his experience!!!
Backpressure? No, back pressure is never good. You're thinking of having some sort of exhaust collector like a manifold or header to aid in scavenging the exhaust gasses.
Great grass roots knowledge. Love it. Thanks.
Very cool tips! Of course now you’re going to cause arguments between the machine shops and engine builders who know it all and the diy’er who (they think) doesn’t know anything. Can’t wait to learn more power tips. Thanks Smokey Jr.! 😂
I worked on cars for 12 years professionally and l lost interest. Here more than 25 years after leaving with no interest ran into this channel. So well done, such a great guy, I'm interested!
Its a good thing there are dudes like you still around. Otherwise someone might do everything the internet says and blow the shit out of their engine:)
Well Tony here is the ranger running :) im pretty happy so far. ruclips.net/video/_vIzSXwbE8w/видео.html
Love your channel!😁😁. You r just a wealth of old school grass roots knowledge. Thank u Tony for sharing all this .
These are all the ol'school tricks. i picked up an old Sioux valve grinder to do those valve tricks, and still finish my seats with stones. We built two motors with the same parts several years ago. One by a 70 year old engine builder who spent decade in the lower classes of circle track with very restrictive rule books and claimer rules. The other by a 28 year old mechanic, working in a high volume engine shop. One motor made just under 290hp, and the other made 330hp. A 10% difference in power with the same parts, castings, and unported heads. They were the motors for a challenger class car running at the local speedway. These speed tricks work. There isn't a single one that will give you 20hp, but 4hp here, and 6hp there adds up quick.
5am,i just woke up with a killer sore back,now i'm watching this and want to head to the garage to pull my engine apart...thanks a lot Tony.....
If that bothers you, you're watching the wrong channel - Uncle Tony
Genuine words!
Nice Tony, excellent technique!
This guy is a treasure trove of knowledge!
Related question. Maybe you could do a quick video explaining pros and cons. Q- is there anything to gain by adding heavier valve springs is it worth the money or are we better off using the standard ones and doing a good valve lap job by hand?
Tony thank you for displaying great information on cheap horse power 👍
Keep up the great work thank you correacuda Robert
Man I’m getting a 1990 Dodge Ram charger with a 360 and I was going to swap it with a newer efi 5.9 but after watching your channel imma take a whack at building it 🤘
Thanks Uncle Tony this stuff is priceless !!!!!
So, I had heard of back facing valves, but had never actually been shown what that is...... Very awesome to learn! And, as it turns out, back facing the valves in the old Honda engines I have been working with is not needed. The factory intake valves may benefit from cleaning up the edge like you were showing with the near knife edging, but other than that, means I do not have any work to put into the valves beyond grinding them to the seats. :)
These “old school” tricks for HP gains make sense in theory but have they been tested on a dyno? Since you are decreasing weight/size/structural integrity of the valves have you had any experience of bent or broken valves after theses alterations? Just curious.
I always pictured valve cut back as cutting the fillet from the stem to the seat .. thanks for clearing that up
Uncle Tony, you're awesome man. Really get a kick out of your channel.
Great job Uncle Tony!!! I learn so much from you.
I love this channel you guys always make me laugh I love the comment if the noise bothers you then you're watching the wrong Channel
Tony thank you for all the great advice.
I have 1964 426w motor in my 1970 cuda. If you have any more old school trick please let me know. Correacuda Robert
I originally learner this trick off of my teacher in school. (Used to build drag racing engines) when I reminded him of it, he asked me why it is only possible with cast iron pistons and gave me and the class an explanation online today. It may benefit everyone here if you could explain why you can only do this with cast iron pistons and not forged or billet.
Uncle Tony your like a 2019 video of my old Hot Rod magazines of the 70's ! Mopar's Rule !!
I wonder what the horsepower difference from flipping the pistons is. I’m definitely gonna keep that in mind next time I build a engine
Even if it is 1 hp per piston. It's free.
I did this to a 273 commando formula s cuda and gained with fenderwell headers about a 100 horsepower,enough to go from 14.2 in the quarter to 12.9 no other changes,and that's a fact,and around 800 more rpm,over carbing is the biggest problem most racers do,never fails,and now that carbs are 400+ dollars each in the box, always start smaller,never build an engine over stock more than 15% if you want to retain fuel economy,he's pretty smart,these tricks were handed down to me by a master engine and trans builder who used to run AA fuel dragsters,i apprenticed under him,man was a genius in 1969
its a lot more than that,remember the factory built my engine ,your engine to go to the grocery store and never rev beyond 4200 even passing on the hiway,it reduces friction dramatically
@@strattuner hey brother very cool of you to share your experience. I'm 34 years old, and I'm a ford guy, been involved with mustang 5.0L (old school 302's), and 4.6L (281) both 2valve and 4valves. Ive done alot of the same tricks he is talking about and even down to indexing the plugs. What I'm wondering with the piston flip is, did you have your engine balanced again? Also, did you notice any slight vibrations when you switched them? If you can give me a shout back, thanks!
Using my wifes account here. Old school mechanic myself with decades of experience. Changing the pin offset. Will gain between one hp - four hp per cylinder. It depends on several things such as bore, head flow and camshaft mainly.
Tony is the type of guy who'd be an astrophysicist or something if he didn't do this. You sir are an American treasure.
These tips are actually in the Mopar engine bible. The valve cuts of 15, 22 and 45 degrees. If you want an engine that shakes like a paint shaker or if you want an engine that's noisy loud. What folks don't know it costs less to build a mopar. You can reuse head, rod and crank bolts. The umbrella valves are chrysler's swirl ports. I like the J and L heads for swap outs.
I use these "secrets " all the time. They work very well.