As a hobbyist doing electric work, using a tig filler rod, 2,4 mm or 3,2mm for punching through those membranes and leading cable is the best thing to use 😁😁 You can even sharpen them on a grinder.
For future reference The membrane above the meter box is a cavity tray it’s a piece of damp proof membrane it’s there to prevent moisture penetration you shouldn’t be cutting through it
Nice to see bonding run through conduit, sparky that did the gas bonding to my mother in law's house left it exposed, already badly faded due to UV. Your idea, 100 times better.
Nice job Guys!!Ahum,i couldnt do it better!Although i had something like it and the customer wanted it in the ground......You know,the earth in the ground..
My preference is always to have an upfront S type 100mA. But as you found that's not always possible. So long as tails secure at point of entry to the CU and for double delight above the main switch all good with regs. Its more the flyleads in the CUs I don't like. Especially for the SPD and RCBO N flyleads. The upfront S type gives some protection on these if they ever contact the main CU case. Good job guys enjoyed the video. Love a hyper volt!
@The UK Electricians Show just a preference. I have videos without S types on TT that I have done. Work in agriculture a bit so that's why I am a bit OTT perhaps. Quite okay without for regs.
Good problem solving but I think also the DNO will not be happy as you're not supposed to go through the top of the Meter box enclosure and as said above, the membrane is cavity tray and is easier to know it's there on standard bricked houses as you'll see weep vents installed on the bottom of cavity trays.
Talk about a security issue you can turn the power off the boxes need locks at a min if they have cameras or a security system it would be off before entering unless they have battery backups
Never been a big fan of cables being run in a cavity wall and EFIXX also pointed out in the regs why we shouldn’t be doing it, personally I think with meter tails being non-RCD protected this is definitely not an ideal situation. Obviously I understand aesthetics comes into play in this situation but cables aren’t supported in the cavity and then you could have the condensation running down the inside of that cavity which will now run along your cables and cause damp in that meter box especially after penetrating a the cav tray. But does look a nice neat install nonetheless
Didn’t he say it’s in pvc trunking so potentially not in contact with the earth. I’m not a sparky but this is some Something that seems to cause comments wars between sparkies. As I understand it in the even of a fault and the earth not giving a sufficiently low ze it may cause the breaker not to trip and the earth to effectively be live. Would have thought the rcd would trip though.
If the pipe is covered in PVC the likelihood is that it is not in contact with earth and therefore no potential can be introduced. But, a continuity test can be carried out to find out if it needs bonding if there is any doubt. We had the same issue with the yellow Tracpipe and the plumber insisted that we bond it. After numerous arguments he called Gas Safe who told him to butt out and leave it to the electricians!
Plastic tank no need to be bonded. Still isn’t terrible practice I’d say to bond. Also thinking if the house is TT why not just put another rod in next to the tank. Might not be quite right but save the conduit in sight. 🤷🏻♂️ Would say 100ma RCD would have been belt and braces for if a 30A RCBO was to become faulty.
I have no issue with the instal, the only thing around the 100ma will depend on what you want the rcd for. The 100ma will generally be for fire protection rather than fault protection.
Another neat, tidy and discreet installation. A shame that the ev plug faces outwards and not flush with the wall or even clips to the cable on one side of the ev charger.
100mA s-type time delayed RCD is required on TT earthing arrangements if its a metallic split-load board this is because of all the line and neutral fly leads feeding the rcds if they were to short out with the metal enclosure the earth fault current would be to low to blow the main cut out fuse, the 100mA rcd isn't required on insulated(plastic) CUs and can be mitigated from RCBO boards too because of the 1 solid busbar, Submains however need to be protected by 100mA s type rcd on TT earth arrangement because they will exceed the maximum Zs value of the protective device, Oil bonding needs to be bonded the same way as metallic gas and water👍
RCD protection should have been installed on the main fuseboard. Given Artisan didn't install the main fuseboard, I'd expect the previous installer (who installed the main fuseboard) to have installed RCD protection. There isn't a clear image of the main fuseboard and what is installed within in; hopefully RCD protection is installed!
@@gloveyourway2000 He said what was in the CU and there's a clear image, it's a split load board with 30mA rcds and a upfront 100mA, the 100mA isn't required because the boards made of plastic, the 30mA is obviously required which is for additional protection as well as fault protection for Zs values due to being a tt installation
@@michaelboyes4948 What is the time in the video where there is a clear image of the existing fuseboard where you can read the circuits? Also given the existing fuseboard is plastic (so must have been installed using the 17th or earlier regs) and it’s a TT installation, the front end 100mA RCD was necessary (unless you satisfied the derivation requirements of 531.4.1 which did allow you to not install the front end RCD). At a guess, the previous sparky didn’t meet the derivation requirements, and has installed the RCD instead.
Tricky one with the tails and metal enclosure I would have thot because tails are in the cavity in a TT system it would have been good practice but then I wouldn't have ran an earth to the oil pipe possibly a bond from the boiler Each to their own Another enjoyable vid
I am surprised they allow "indoor" boards outside in damp environments there. You have to use at least NEMA3R boxes here in the USA. Keep up the good work guys! 👍🍺
Yeah, I'd have expected a requirement for something IP-rated (IP43 or 44) there too but the UK seems to be fairly relaxed on that. I keep seeing non-IP rated switches in all kinds of locations where other European countries would simply go for IP44. TBH, the general rule of thumb is if it's surface-mount and not in a living space it's usually IP44 on the continent.
Almost always bond the oil pipe unless it's soft copper coated in upvc (like you have there) in which case you'd be testing it, likely hood that was run it at the same time a double bunded oil tank was so aside from the Fire Safety Shut Off Valve and the copper pipe going into the building none of it connects to the mass of earth. You've connected on the correct side of the shut off though as it's rigid copper as opposed to soft copper. Very nice to see it run in conduit rather than left exposed though. TT we would have installed it exactly the same way, there's no point having one protecting the tails over that distance when all final circuits are RCD/RCBO protected.
Wired my new bungalow myself, council did not want me to install my breaker board in my garage but said i could install it in my bathroom, refused and installed it as i wanted. Seems we have stupid regulations now
Personally, I’d always put a time delayed RCD before any tails- the reason being that if there’s an earth fault upstream of the boards, the cut- out fuse isn’t going to trip because the fault current is so low. Also, don’t you need an earthed metallic covering for the tails since they’re within 50mm depth of the wall?
The only place an upfront rcd should be used on TT is if a dual rcd metal enclosure board is used as the jumpers supplying the rcds are usually single insulated, on an rcbo consumer unit as long as tails clamps or a tails gland is used there is a very small likely hood of a fault to earth through the housing.
No need for the s type upstream , this would have to go in a metallic enclosure so your just moving the issue , protection is by double insulation , tails glands etc
Great work! I recommend you should put copper ground rod on near corner from drain rain pipe instead long way to connected pvc black pipe. Thumbs up! Happy New Year! Cheers!
This was taken from a posting in 2008, which still seems to be relevant. Also penetrating the cavity tray could allow water to track down the cable into the meter box which is worrying (to say the least). I assume the cavity tray was there specifically to protect the meter box which has now been breached. Guidance from the Electricity Safety Council says "installing such cables in this way (external cavity walls) is generally an undesirable practice" The reasons give are: 1. Obstructions in a cavity wall, such create a risk of unseen damage during installation. 2. Long unsupported vertical drops may place undue strain on the conductors, leading to damage 3. Polystyrene used for insulation, if it come into contact with thermoplastic (pvc) cable sheathing, plasticiser can migrate from the thermoplastic to the polystyrene 4. Thermal insulation in the cavity may cause cable not to be able to carry the load current without overheating due to their current-carrying capacity being reduced 5. Presence of flora and fauna - unforeseen external influences There is also a requirement in the Building Regulations 2000, Approved Document C, 2004 Edition, Section 5: Walls, paragraph 5.13 b and NHBC Standards state that no cables other than electricity meter tails are to be located in the cavity of an external wall
Why do you use conduit for this? Here we would use a single core NYY-J 1x10mm². It's a regular NYY cable with its black sheathing but with only one single green/yellow insulated wire inside.
I've never seen that sort of cable used in the UK mate but it makes perfect sense. They have used black PVC conduit just to offer some mechanical protection and to prevent UV damage to the single insulated earth cable which will eventually cause the insulation to go brittle and break away from the conductor. I think it looks better aesthetically too rather than a green/yellow cable clipped round the outside of the house.
@@Daniells1982 I‘ve seen them using NYY cable. But the three core version (brown, blue, green/yellow). NYY is a German normalised cable type, but also available in the UK. Like SWA but without armour. Then Doncaster cable came up with the Tuff Sheath. It‘s the old German pre- European harmonisation cable designation system. It describes how the cable is built from the inside out. N normalised cable type Next letter would tell you the conductor material, A would be aluminium, nothing is copper. Y tells you PVC wire insulation, and next Y is PVC outer sheathing. So this cable type with aluminium conductors would be NAYY. There‘s also a version with a concentric CPC, made of copper, almost like an armour. That one is NYCY.
@@Marcel_Germann that's interesting mate. I know we used NYY here, I've just never seen a single core double insulated earth used as a bonding conductor when ran externally. Less hassle than running a conduit to be fair, it's a good idea.
If you swapped a circuit from the old board to the new board and created a sub board you wouldn't have needed new tails and it would have been rcd protected
Are you putting the tails vertically in the cavity gap? Is that ok as I thought that was not permissible under the regs? Not having a go at all as this is what the sparky did in my place, just would appreciate your knowledge and thoughts.
OK, under what circumstance would an unbonded oil pipe represent a risk to anyone? I ask this because I have an oil boiler with an unbonded oil feed pipe from an oil tank about 4 ft away from the wall. Inside the building the pipe runs for around another 2 ft before connecting to the boiler. The boiler itself is earthed both through the cpc in the supply cable and also via the incoming water feed pipe. How would bonding the oil feed pipe help in any way?
Apologies for having to ask this here, I could probably Google the answers 🤣 - Is Luke a Mate or a mature Apprentice? - Why does Lee not have a signed van?
I think Luke is a trainee electrician rather than apprentice. Lee probably owns his van and doesn’t want it sign written and doesn’t want a company van?
No point swapping it when it's a recently installed appliance, plus they're on TT with over head lines so unless they're going to be investing in battery storage it's more cost effective to keep the oil.
I was thinking if there's some overlap of the old door and the section they cut out, they could have screwed the cutout section back onto the existing door with some baton for a little extar strength... Bingo new door that fits exactly., 😁
Luke and Lee make a good team! Nice work guys, that has to be the most challenging fuse board yet on this channel. I will say that the UK does place fuse boards in the oddest spots.
Its cool that you've cornered a niche market. Installing at £80 P/h. But its boring seeing you lot sitting in a garage talking about running a cable. Want to see more installs in more diverse, complicated places. Dealing with the majority of people In the real world without drives. More DNO interaction.
This is one of those "yeah but what if" jobs. Plastic coated oil pipe under ground no path to earth. No need to bond "Yeah but what if it gets damaged," Metal board with no rcd on tails on a tt ,needs a time delay rcd to protect metal enclosure. "Yeah but if you put a time delay rcd it needs to be In a metal enclosure as it domestic switchgear so just moved the problem to somewhere else. I would have done no different thou would expect criticism. That's the problem with the regs as they are so many variables. Good vid as normal.
After a lot of testing and due diligence we found fuse box to be very good quality and more practical for EV installs due to the double pole RCBOs which Hager do not make yet.
I’m sorry but I’m 13 seconds into the video…….what on earth did that bread do to you to deserve such treatment! Sacrilege! Great video as always tho 😀😀
What is everyone’s view on running cables in the cavity? It’s has always scared me!! But I guess this is where common sense has to come into play as you shouldn’t really be drilling around that area anyway?
Better start moving electric and gas meter boxes back indoors then, anyone can access those. Seriously, unless someone knows it's there, and has ladder, what are they going to do? Install another circuit for their caravan?
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As a hobbyist doing electric work, using a tig filler rod, 2,4 mm or 3,2mm for punching through those membranes and leading cable is the best thing to use 😁😁 You can even sharpen them on a grinder.
For future reference The membrane above the meter box is a cavity tray it’s a piece of damp proof membrane it’s there to prevent moisture penetration you shouldn’t be cutting through it
At that location its not a problem.
More of Luke and Lee. They work well together.
Nice to see bonding run through conduit, sparky that did the gas bonding to my mother in law's house left it exposed, already badly faded due to UV. Your idea, 100 times better.
Thanks!
Is this Chris Topliss that was Rick Stein’s camera man?? Sorry to diverse
Nice job Guys!!Ahum,i couldnt do it better!Although i had something like it and the customer wanted it in the ground......You know,the earth in the ground..
My preference is always to have an upfront S type 100mA. But as you found that's not always possible. So long as tails secure at point of entry to the CU and for double delight above the main switch all good with regs. Its more the flyleads in the CUs I don't like. Especially for the SPD and RCBO N flyleads. The upfront S type gives some protection on these if they ever contact the main CU case.
Good job guys enjoyed the video. Love a hyper volt!
@The UK Electricians Show just a preference. I have videos without S types on TT that I have done. Work in agriculture a bit so that's why I am a bit OTT perhaps. Quite okay without for regs.
Good problem solving but I think also the DNO will not be happy as you're not supposed to go through the top of the Meter box enclosure and as said above, the membrane is cavity tray and is easier to know it's there on standard bricked houses as you'll see weep vents installed on the bottom of cavity trays.
Talk about a security issue you can turn the power off the boxes need locks at a min if they have cameras or a security system it would be off before entering unless they have battery backups
Well done lee and luck ‘’What a team’’ Can see that luck is fitting in well and that he’s becoming more confident around the role. Result 💪
Never been a big fan of cables being run in a cavity wall and EFIXX also pointed out in the regs why we shouldn’t be doing it, personally I think with meter tails being non-RCD protected this is definitely not an ideal situation. Obviously I understand aesthetics comes into play in this situation but cables aren’t supported in the cavity and then you could have the condensation running down the inside of that cavity which will now run along your cables and cause damp in that meter box especially after penetrating a the cav tray. But does look a nice neat install nonetheless
agree
Lee is very skillful always a top job, great addition to the channel.
You boys did a seriously neat job on this one. I love how you're problem solving and making it look 👌🏻
The question regarding the need for a front end RCD on a metal board with T.T system im sure is covered in the OSG.
Nice job guys 👌🏻👌🏻
Lee you are the art of the Artisan. Luke you will learn lots.nice job boys💪👍
There should be a competion in the UK: "Worst place for fuseboard".. mine's under the bathttub
-Oh that's nothing mine's between brickwalls..
You are correct Oil, Water and Gas all need bonding at the point of entry 👍
Didn’t he say it’s in pvc trunking so potentially not in contact with the earth. I’m not a sparky but this is some Something that seems to cause comments wars between sparkies. As I understand it in the even of a fault and the earth not giving a sufficiently low ze it may cause the breaker not to trip and the earth to effectively be live. Would have thought the rcd would trip though.
If the pipe is covered in PVC the likelihood is that it is not in contact with earth and therefore no potential can be introduced. But, a continuity test can be carried out to find out if it needs bonding if there is any doubt. We had the same issue with the yellow Tracpipe and the plumber insisted that we bond it. After numerous arguments he called Gas Safe who told him to butt out and leave it to the electricians!
Plastic tank no need to be bonded. Still isn’t terrible practice I’d say to bond. Also thinking if the house is TT why not just put another rod in next to the tank. Might not be quite right but save the conduit in sight. 🤷🏻♂️ Would say 100ma RCD would have been belt and braces for if a 30A RCBO was to become faulty.
You guys should store your toung in your conduit holder so they aren't always curled up.
I have no issue with the instal, the only thing around the 100ma will depend on what you want the rcd for. The 100ma will generally be for fire protection rather than fault protection.
Another neat, tidy and discreet installation.
A shame that the ev plug faces outwards and not flush with the wall or even clips to the cable on one side of the ev charger.
100mA s-type time delayed RCD is required on TT earthing arrangements if its a metallic split-load board this is because of all the line and neutral fly leads feeding the rcds if they were to short out with the metal enclosure the earth fault current would be to low to blow the main cut out fuse, the 100mA rcd isn't required on insulated(plastic) CUs and can be mitigated from RCBO boards too because of the 1 solid busbar, Submains however need to be protected by 100mA s type rcd on TT earth arrangement because they will exceed the maximum Zs value of the protective device, Oil bonding needs to be bonded the same way as metallic gas and water👍
RCD protection should have been installed on the main fuseboard. Given Artisan didn't install the main fuseboard, I'd expect the previous installer (who installed the main fuseboard) to have installed RCD protection. There isn't a clear image of the main fuseboard and what is installed within in; hopefully RCD protection is installed!
@@gloveyourway2000 He said what was in the CU and there's a clear image, it's a split load board with 30mA rcds and a upfront 100mA, the 100mA isn't required because the boards made of plastic, the 30mA is obviously required which is for additional protection as well as fault protection for Zs values due to being a tt installation
@@michaelboyes4948 What is the time in the video where there is a clear image of the existing fuseboard where you can read the circuits?
Also given the existing fuseboard is plastic (so must have been installed using the 17th or earlier regs) and it’s a TT installation, the front end 100mA RCD was necessary (unless you satisfied the derivation requirements of 531.4.1 which did allow you to not install the front end RCD).
At a guess, the previous sparky didn’t meet the derivation requirements, and has installed the RCD instead.
Tricky one with the tails and metal enclosure I would have thot because tails are in the cavity in a TT system it would have been good practice but then I wouldn't have ran an earth to the oil pipe possibly a bond from the boiler Each to their own Another enjoyable vid
I am surprised they allow "indoor" boards outside in damp environments there. You have to use at least NEMA3R boxes here in the USA. Keep up the good work guys! 👍🍺
Yeah, I'd have expected a requirement for something IP-rated (IP43 or 44) there too but the UK seems to be fairly relaxed on that. I keep seeing non-IP rated switches in all kinds of locations where other European countries would simply go for IP44. TBH, the general rule of thumb is if it's surface-mount and not in a living space it's usually IP44 on the continent.
"That's the same thing, danish / dutch, I don't know"
ways to make friends in those 2 countries 🤣
Almost always bond the oil pipe unless it's soft copper coated in upvc (like you have there) in which case you'd be testing it, likely hood that was run it at the same time a double bunded oil tank was so aside from the Fire Safety Shut Off Valve and the copper pipe going into the building none of it connects to the mass of earth. You've connected on the correct side of the shut off though as it's rigid copper as opposed to soft copper. Very nice to see it run in conduit rather than left exposed though.
TT we would have installed it exactly the same way, there's no point having one protecting the tails over that distance when all final circuits are RCD/RCBO protected.
Surely there is a connection to Earth where the boiler would be connected to the electricity.
Wired my new bungalow myself, council did not want me to install my breaker board in my garage but said i could install it in my bathroom, refused and installed it as i wanted.
Seems we have stupid regulations now
Nice install guys
Danish is the language spoken in Denmark 🇩🇰
Dutch is the language spoken in The Netherlands 🇳🇱
😁😁
selamat siang lee 🙏🏻 hati hati selalu dalam bekerja 👍
Personally, I’d always put a time delayed RCD before any tails- the reason being that if there’s an earth fault upstream of the boards, the cut- out fuse isn’t going to trip because the fault current is so low. Also, don’t you need an earthed metallic covering for the tails since they’re within 50mm depth of the wall?
Hi Prince , you would have to put the rcd in a metallic enclosure so you have the same problem? What's your thoughts on this
@@Mainly_Electrical mettalic with proper compression gland
May be worth investing in a C A T (cable avoidance tool) if you are going to drill holes beneath an outside meter box ???
Love the attention to detail
Great vid as always 🙌🏻
Can’t believe you fished through the void so easily
Enjoyed watching video !
The only place an upfront rcd should be used on TT is if a dual rcd metal enclosure board is used as the jumpers supplying the rcds are usually single insulated, on an rcbo consumer unit as long as tails clamps or a tails gland is used there is a very small likely hood of a fault to earth through the housing.
What about the spd? That’s non rcd and single insulated.
No need for the s type upstream , this would have to go in a metallic enclosure so your just moving the issue , protection is by double insulation , tails glands etc
Great work! I recommend you should put copper ground rod on near corner from drain rain pipe instead long way to connected pvc black pipe. Thumbs up! Happy New Year! Cheers!
That was a bonding earth for the oil pipe and not an earth rod they were installing.
"too old for this" ?! You never hear Delroy say that and he's probably three times your age
😂
Delroy is amazing
😂😂😂
This was taken from a posting in 2008, which still seems to be relevant. Also penetrating the cavity tray could allow water to track down the cable into the meter box which is worrying (to say the least). I assume the cavity tray was there specifically to protect the meter box which has now been breached.
Guidance from the Electricity Safety Council says "installing such cables in this way (external cavity walls) is generally an undesirable practice"
The reasons give are:
1. Obstructions in a cavity wall, such create a risk of unseen damage during installation.
2. Long unsupported vertical drops may place undue strain on the conductors, leading to damage
3. Polystyrene used for insulation, if it come into contact with thermoplastic (pvc) cable sheathing, plasticiser can migrate from the thermoplastic to the polystyrene
4. Thermal insulation in the cavity may cause cable not to be able to carry the load current without overheating due to their current-carrying capacity being reduced
5. Presence of flora and fauna - unforeseen external influences
There is also a requirement in the Building Regulations 2000, Approved Document C, 2004 Edition, Section 5: Walls, paragraph 5.13 b
and NHBC Standards state that no cables other than electricity meter tails are to be located in the cavity of an external wall
Is that Tom Nagy in the background with a target on him.
😂😂😂
Why do you use conduit for this? Here we would use a single core NYY-J 1x10mm². It's a regular NYY cable with its black sheathing but with only one single green/yellow insulated wire inside.
I've never seen that sort of cable used in the UK mate but it makes perfect sense. They have used black PVC conduit just to offer some mechanical protection and to prevent UV damage to the single insulated earth cable which will eventually cause the insulation to go brittle and break away from the conductor. I think it looks better aesthetically too rather than a green/yellow cable clipped round the outside of the house.
@@Daniells1982 I‘ve seen them using NYY cable. But the three core version (brown, blue, green/yellow). NYY is a German normalised cable type, but also available in the UK. Like SWA but without armour. Then Doncaster cable came up with the Tuff Sheath.
It‘s the old German pre- European harmonisation cable designation system. It describes how the cable is built from the inside out.
N normalised cable type
Next letter would tell you the conductor material, A would be aluminium, nothing is copper. Y tells you PVC wire insulation, and next Y is PVC outer sheathing. So this cable type with aluminium conductors would be NAYY. There‘s also a version with a concentric CPC, made of copper, almost like an armour. That one is NYCY.
@@Marcel_Germann that's interesting mate. I know we used NYY here, I've just never seen a single core double insulated earth used as a bonding conductor when ran externally. Less hassle than running a conduit to be fair, it's a good idea.
Dorringtons shoutout! Makers of the best doughnuts in the world.
Great job 😎
Any chance of a van tour Lee? Got a Combo I want to rack out and I need inspiration. Thanks.
The van tour video is coming tomorrow at 7pm! Stay tuned! 😎
@@artisanelectrics I'd love to see how Lee has his current van set out, no doubt it's evolved over the years.
Just a question...what type of cable did u used for ev charger and what size of it ??
If you swapped a circuit from the old board to the new board and created a sub board you wouldn't have needed new tails and it would have been rcd protected
Are you putting the tails vertically in the cavity gap? Is that ok as I thought that was not permissible under the regs? Not having a go at all as this is what the sparky did in my place, just would appreciate your knowledge and thoughts.
Nice work, would have been pretty tricky without those superrod bits n bobs!
Nice and tidy. Bonding sounds like an important item on an incoming oil pipe, being another source of potential difference and earth.
OK, under what circumstance would an unbonded oil pipe represent a risk to anyone? I ask this because I have an oil boiler with an unbonded oil feed pipe from an oil tank about 4 ft away from the wall. Inside the building the pipe runs for around another 2 ft before connecting to the boiler. The boiler itself is earthed both through the cpc in the supply cable and also via the incoming water feed pipe.
How would bonding the oil feed pipe help in any way?
Apologies for having to ask this here, I could probably Google the answers 🤣
- Is Luke a Mate or a mature Apprentice?
- Why does Lee not have a signed van?
I think Luke is a trainee electrician rather than apprentice. Lee probably owns his van and doesn’t want it sign written and doesn’t want a company van?
In the newest video, they show the new sign written van for Lee, maybe this was a stop gap.
Did you pull the main fuse to fit the henly block.
Are they Saxton screwdriver bits? The yellow tape near the tip looks familiar.
10:26 not the same… Danish from Denmark, Dutch from the Netherlands (Holland)
Good job boys.I relly like your videos.
Thanks!
Green EV and oil fired central heating?
Some places are so old try don't have mains gas
No point swapping it when it's a recently installed appliance, plus they're on TT with over head lines so unless they're going to be investing in battery storage it's more cost effective to keep the oil.
Better install some air/air heatpumps in that place.
Well thought out install chaps - customer would be happy with that - would you not knock up a new lid for the cupboard though ?
I was thinking if there's some overlap of the old door and the section they cut out, they could have screwed the cutout section back onto the existing door with some baton for a little extar strength... Bingo new door that fits exactly., 😁
Nice neat work.
What board locations! Illegal in many countries.
Where’s Cory at
He has been on holiday a lot lately and he only works part time, but he will be back soon!
@@artisanelectrics Wait Cory only works part time? I thought he was a full time employee with you guys
Part timer, haha
Luke and Lee make a good team! Nice work guys, that has to be the most challenging fuse board yet on this channel. I will say that the UK does place fuse boards in the oddest spots.
In france the board is close to an exit and must be accessible for a wheelchair user. Much easier.
Lee is like Dr Chill. Laidback is his middle name I think.
Its cool that you've cornered a niche market. Installing at £80 P/h. But its boring seeing you lot sitting in a garage talking about running a cable.
Want to see more installs in more diverse, complicated places. Dealing with the majority of people In the real world without drives. More DNO interaction.
Have you guys got knee pads, ie top quality snickers pad . Take it from an old sparky, don't put it off, you will regret it later on
never seen a oil pipe bonded, and cutting through a membrane is a bad idea
Great Job.
This is one of those "yeah but what if" jobs.
Plastic coated oil pipe under ground no path to earth. No need to bond
"Yeah but what if it gets damaged,"
Metal board with no rcd on tails on a tt ,needs a time delay rcd to protect metal enclosure.
"Yeah but if you put a time delay rcd it needs to be In a metal enclosure as it domestic switchgear so just moved the problem to somewhere else.
I would have done no different thou would expect criticism. That's the problem with the regs as they are so many variables.
Good vid as normal.
Cable in a void or in a cavity is that allowed? Given up with Hager now? Gone for a more budget brand instead increase that profit margin..
After a lot of testing and due diligence we found fuse box to be very good quality and more practical for EV installs due to the double pole RCBOs which Hager do not make yet.
@@artisanelectrics fair play if it’s not just for price then that’s good. And good for fusebox for making them double pole.
@@cms4467 I am just curious if these RCBO's (which are 1 DIN slot) are voltage dependant.
@@artisanelectrics That is surprising, Jordan was always a Hager man.
Hands down the most boring trade. They deserve the money they charge for the monotonous tasks they carry out
I think no bonding needed
good problem solving guys . can see father christmas is on the fiddle 🙂good job he not a Artisan team member
Niice
You never addressed the front gate issue. All metal parts need to be bonded is the guiding rule
I’m sorry but I’m 13 seconds into the video…….what on earth did that bread do to you to deserve such treatment! Sacrilege! Great video as always tho 😀😀
What is everyone’s view on running cables in the cavity? It’s has always scared me!! But I guess this is where common sense has to come into play as you shouldn’t really be drilling around that area anyway?
Guidance clearly says you shouldn’t do it……
What a stupid place for a consumer unit anybody could access that
Better start moving electric and gas meter boxes back indoors then, anyone can access those. Seriously, unless someone knows it's there, and has ladder, what are they going to do? Install another circuit for their caravan?
In the US a lot of ours are mounted on the exterior of the house next to the meter.
Well done guys. Artisan are top company. Do you accept jobs in Northampton?
Thanks! Yeah we just about cover Northampton