Your dedication and professionalism are to be admired. That you check what you say with professionals in the field is also outstanding. Whatever you report, I can be confident that the people I suspend will be safe while I follow your advice. Thank you. Over 25 years of rigging, and I'm still learning. :)
So, I'm 43 years old. I just took my fearless 13 year old daughter to her first indoor climbing gym, and she fell in love with the sport. I got top rope certified and have been watching your content to learn how to best assist her. I gotta say, you are probably the most likable guy on RUclips. Thank you, and keep up your great work!
This is a really good video about uiaa specs. But I also gotta say, good job mammut for helping getting information out. Honestly, publication of data is a big plus for me when considering from who to buy
You say that you get surprised by the amount of people watching your videos, but I think it's only natural with so much dedication and thoroughness that you go into each one. Thank you so much for all this work, and thanks Mammut for showing all of that to us. All this info have always been like a 'blackbox' for us consumers, it's nice to see what all these numbers are.
As someone who has done test engineering, I found it cool to see their processes and procedures for getting consistent results. Credit to Mammut for showing us how things get done inside, and thank you, Ben, for telling the story of their ropes!
I love your high quality videos. People like you and or channels like @veritasium, who have high standarts in which information they provide, are what makes youtube so interesting to me! That you actually go to the experts in the industry you are talking about and test things yourself makes it much more coprehnsible for us. Also the difference in theory and practice or better said: How the theory is applied in practice, is a really valuable focus of your channel. So I can't thank you enough for not only not posting cheap content, but super in depth content! Also this comment is a bit of algorithm feeding, since I noticed the video so early:)
I usually don't watch long video (> 20 min), but if they are yours i watch them regardless of the thumbnail, duration, title, etc, i really like your videos! Also, some times your way of talking make me feel "close" to you, like at 33:03, thank you so much and happy climbing!!
Buying a new rope tomorrow so this is a well timed video! I especially appreciated the graphs that give us the normal range expected in each parameter to know what numbers are low and high. Excellent work as always Ben!
If you keep this up, you could really do a PhD on climbing ropes and fall forces! But I have a question you could ask your Mammut friends: if I drop a carabiner on the ground from up high, is the carabiner *really* less safe now? I find this just so hard to believe....
Thank you for this informative and entertaining video. I consider mammut to be relatively expensive, but it's good to see them investing in this research/testing.
Ben, you're work is simply unparalleled (okay.. Ryan is parallel). We are so lucky to have you providing the best information on all things safety and technical in climbing. Proud to be a patreon and strongly encourage others to support your work too.
Hey, thank you so much, It actually helps me a ton people who support me. I can be slightly less pressured to produce stuff and actually think and make something more meaningful... (at least for me)
Hey, great work! Could you share the webscraped rope dataset somewhere? I would love to explore it and maybe certain groups of ropes can be found with similar properties?
If people aren't watching this, it's the algorithm not showing it to people. I only had this recommended to me after 2 days and I'm on youtube often. Thanks for the videos.
When cutting my ropes at home, I wrap the rope in 5cm wide finger tape, as tight as possible (super tight!) Where I'm going to cut. Then cut the rope and tape at desired point. Then use heat/flame to melt the end and heat the 2.5cm of the tape. This seems to help heat weld the fibres together without burning or over-melting the sheath end. Usually I leave the finger tape on and label it with the new length.
I do love you showing up at their office and just 'bullying' them, especially with how kind of 'archetypically chad' you look (even if you're a huge dork yourself) its so cute xD. But another fascinating video it seems.
Thank you for this nice video. How a rope is tested is very interesting to see and to know. Especially importend is nontheless the "fall-factor" while loading a rope on falling. It is not described here, but I wanted to mention it, because there might be some confusion out there, about this topic. Never ever go near a fall-factor of 2 ;-) . You know what I mean (smile). I also like the videos of yout buddy Ryan from "How not to". Have learned a lot while watching you guys. Just wanted to say "thank you" :-) . Best wishes and be save.
i will buy mammut ropes as soon as they're PFAS free. for now it's sterling or edelrid for PFAS-free dry treatments. love the videos thanks for sharing.
It doesn't pay the manufacturers to abandon the accepted standard of ten years and retire the rope. It is a very difficult problem, due in large part to extraneous factors, like cleaning, storage and exposure to UV and chemicals. Thanks for the details on testing.
Damn man such a nice video ! Could you please leak that amazing spreadsheet of rope data so that we can make a more enlighten next purchase ?? Thanks a lot !
It seems they don't put only ropes in their climatic chambers! Nice stuff in the background @ 12:00! (PS: We all do the same so no judgment on my side)
11:00 why should the connection between diameter and weight be linear? it should be squared. doubling the diameter squares the crossectional area and hence it would also square the weight, right?
Okay, off topic but just saw the opening scene to the 2022 movie Fall. There were many observations I noticed that an experienced climber would never do. Would like your opinion of the many technical errors depicted in this movie. BTW, I truly enjoy viewing your videos and learning from them. Thanks for sharing.
I'm still left with 2 questions; First of all what about the most obvious stat, the minimum breaking strength? Would be curious how Mammut tests as compared to HowNot2. And for the static elongation, why does it keep stretching? In real use, once the climber hangs in the rope, it stretches for a second at most and then reaches a balance. It seems like the testing machine keeps pulling however? If it exerts a constant 0.8kN of force shouldn't it reach a balance really fast as well?
What do we think the weight limit is for a climber, considering the capacity of the rope, bolts, quick draws, harness, cams, nuts, etc? I ask out of curiosity, as I work with a number of bariatric patients in a hospital, some between 700 lbs (317 kg) and 1000 lbs (453 kg). If someone of this weight were to express an interest in climbing, at what weight do we think there would be safety concerns? Even when considering top roping in a gym, I assume there must be some limitations to the structure of the wall. I love your videos! Thanks for any input!
this is anecdotal but i remember the edelrid people talking about weight in relation to cut-resistance of ropes (they have a few video about the topic), and how weight decrease it a lot, es: a very skinny rope with one person rappeling is less vulnerable than a thick rope with 2 people (for example tandem rappel or rescue situation). as far as gym-climbing is concerned (no edges or wandering route) anybody capable of climbing is probably well within specs of the rope... magnus midtbo took eddie hall on top rope after all... the limiting factor is probably gonna be the harness and how to get it to properly fit.
Hello Mr. Hard Is Easy 😁 It would be interesting for me to know what is the REAL difference between a doublerope and a 3x certified rope. I saw that e.g. the Beal Iceline 8.1 has a sheath mass of 41% in comparison to a Beal Opera 8.5 having 38% sheath mass. Is it valid to calculate e.g. 41 % of the 8.1mm rope and say the sheath there is thicker or is i really online the mass, which would be lower for the double rope if the sheath and the core would be the same weight- wich is surely not the case. Is there any info what is the weight of the core and sheath and des it play a role or does it depend more on the material, way of woving and so on... I would be interessted in your mind to that topic. Cheers
Yea technically more sheath % means more sheath material and should make a rope last longer to abrasion, but there are more factors to this as well that's why I'm wishing better standardised tests.
Your combined static & dynamic elongation chart showed that the Mammut 9.5 crag we care rope should have fairly low elongation. My personal experience with that rope is the exact opposite. Anecdotally it is noticeably stretchier than any other rope I have ever used 9mm and greater. Bar none. In fact we had two crag we care ropes , different lengths, and both were extremely stretchy. So take those measurements with a grain of salt
Well have you measured them? Cause feelings and reality aren't necessarily the same thing. For waht it's worth, I've climbed on a number of Crag We Care Ropes and I haven't ever felt that they were particularly stretchy compared to other ropes.
@@Aaron-xq6hv I mean I haven't tested them side by side with some other rope on the same route. But it's really obvious when you fall on them that you fall way further than you think you should compared to other similar sized ropes. Heck I jugged out using it once and I felt like I was on a bungy cord
Your dedication and professionalism are to be admired. That you check what you say with professionals in the field is also outstanding. Whatever you report, I can be confident that the people I suspend will be safe while I follow your advice. Thank you. Over 25 years of rigging, and I'm still learning. :)
Ah thank you so much!
So, I'm 43 years old. I just took my fearless 13 year old daughter to her first indoor climbing gym, and she fell in love with the sport. I got top rope certified and have been watching your content to learn how to best assist her. I gotta say, you are probably the most likable guy on RUclips. Thank you, and keep up your great work!
Super helpful. Thanks!
This is a really good video about uiaa specs. But I also gotta say, good job mammut for helping getting information out. Honestly, publication of data is a big plus for me when considering from who to buy
to me, your videos are the most informative yet entertaining climbing content there is on youtube, instantly liking!
Wow, thanks!
You say that you get surprised by the amount of people watching your videos, but I think it's only natural with so much dedication and thoroughness that you go into each one.
Thank you so much for all this work, and thanks Mammut for showing all of that to us. All this info have always been like a 'blackbox' for us consumers, it's nice to see what all these numbers are.
thank you a lot for your videos, it's incredible the ammount of information we learn from your videos! can't wait to see the next one.
Thank you so much! next one is even more exciting :D
every time again and again a funny and geeky video with lots of data and important things to know, yet very simply explained. awesome!
As someone who has done test engineering, I found it cool to see their processes and procedures for getting consistent results. Credit to Mammut for showing us how things get done inside, and thank you, Ben, for telling the story of their ropes!
Yay new content!
I love your high quality videos. People like you and or channels like @veritasium, who have high standarts in which information they provide, are what makes youtube so interesting to me!
That you actually go to the experts in the industry you are talking about and test things yourself makes it much more coprehnsible for us. Also the difference in theory and practice or better said: How the theory is applied in practice, is a really valuable focus of your channel.
So I can't thank you enough for not only not posting cheap content, but super in depth content!
Also this comment is a bit of algorithm feeding, since I noticed the video so early:)
Thank you for such message, super cool to know that people are interested in my interests and makes me wanna do even more :)
Cant wait for your next review episode on the elerid pinch! Looking forward for that! 🙃
One of my favorite channels all time!! I appreciate your dedication to the sport, and the knowledge you provide
I usually don't watch long video (> 20 min), but if they are yours i watch them regardless of the thumbnail, duration, title, etc, i really like your videos! Also, some times your way of talking make me feel "close" to you, like at 33:03, thank you so much and happy climbing!!
Buying a new rope tomorrow so this is a well timed video! I especially appreciated the graphs that give us the normal range expected in each parameter to know what numbers are low and high.
Excellent work as always Ben!
just the best educational and entertaining climbing youtube channel. more a how to and not hownot2.
Thanks for the content! A great peek behind the curtain of the testing process. Always nice to see great humans interacting 😊
Great video again, man! Thank you! :)
Vastly informative and extremely entertaining content! Nnnice 🖖🏻
As an alpinist, I express my respect.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Really useful content, as always! Many thanks for all the background information and tests. May many more good videos follow!
I love those nerdy videos about climbing! Thanks for making us ropes nerds :)
I just love the way you approach your topics - just keep turning stones over until you can't find any more stones! Great approach to life 😂
Sooooooooooooooo much info. So much more understanding!
Thank YOU!
Bro... Your Channel is pure gold. I'm watching every video ! Thank You so much for this. You helped me a lot.
Oh Ben ! I’ve missed you man ! Thank you for posting another awesomely documented and thorough nerdy video 🙏🏼 - definitely loving it !
If you keep this up, you could really do a PhD on climbing ropes and fall forces! But I have a question you could ask your Mammut friends: if I drop a carabiner on the ground from up high, is the carabiner *really* less safe now? I find this just so hard to believe....
Haha my next video is exactly about your 2nd question ;)
Thank you for this informative and entertaining video. I consider mammut to be relatively expensive, but it's good to see them investing in this research/testing.
Ben, you're work is simply unparalleled (okay.. Ryan is parallel). We are so lucky to have you providing the best information on all things safety and technical in climbing. Proud to be a patreon and strongly encourage others to support your work too.
Hey, thank you so much, It actually helps me a ton people who support me. I can be slightly less pressured to produce stuff and actually think and make something more meaningful... (at least for me)
Hey, great work! Could you share the webscraped rope dataset somewhere? I would love to explore it and maybe certain groups of ropes can be found with similar properties?
Hey Ben, it was cool seeing you in Madrid. I'm not sure if I said, but I love your content.
All the best,
Awkward handshake dude.
0:00 I felt personally called out
Finally I understand that label numbers. Thank you!
If people aren't watching this, it's the algorithm not showing it to people. I only had this recommended to me after 2 days and I'm on youtube often. Thanks for the videos.
Yea I'm surprised how badly this video performing, not sure if it's the topic not interesting to people orwhatever else...
Awesome content as usual!! So pro!
Yes, a new video with lots of info, I like it already :D
Really appreciate your video, very informative and interesting. Makes me know about the ROPES. Thank you man 😊
When cutting my ropes at home, I wrap the rope in 5cm wide finger tape, as tight as possible (super tight!) Where I'm going to cut.
Then cut the rope and tape at desired point.
Then use heat/flame to melt the end and heat the 2.5cm of the tape. This seems to help heat weld the fibres together without burning or over-melting the sheath end.
Usually I leave the finger tape on and label it with the new length.
I do love you showing up at their office and just 'bullying' them, especially with how kind of 'archetypically chad' you look (even if you're a huge dork yourself) its so cute xD. But another fascinating video it seems.
Thank you to Mammut and the volunteers at UIAA who have spent so much time making us safer.
Amazing video as always
Thank you !!!! And I love your work
3:16 I love your glance 😂
Thank you for this nice video. How a rope is tested is very interesting to see and to know. Especially importend is nontheless the "fall-factor" while loading a rope on falling. It is not described here, but I wanted to mention it, because there might be some confusion out there, about this topic. Never ever go near a fall-factor of 2 ;-) . You know what I mean (smile). I also like the videos of yout buddy Ryan from "How not to". Have learned a lot while watching you guys. Just wanted to say "thank you" :-) . Best wishes and be save.
i will buy mammut ropes as soon as they're PFAS free. for now it's sterling or edelrid for PFAS-free dry treatments. love the videos thanks for sharing.
Brilliant, excellent video, thankyou!
I love the beer in the corner. How do they test them? Are they the distraction?😂
Nice to have you back in my subscriptions!!! Missed yer 🤣👌👌👌👌
It doesn't pay the manufacturers to abandon the accepted standard of ten years and retire the rope. It is a very difficult problem, due in large part to extraneous factors, like cleaning, storage and exposure to UV and chemicals. Thanks for the details on testing.
I thought I was the only one going down this rabbit hole. now I feel like I'm part of a larger community
Very interesting! Thx!
You are a living legend!
👍 keep it up. Great videos!
Thank you for this interesting tests
@27:45 Just to be pedantic, that is a nut, not a bolt!
A bolt has male threads!
Damn man such a nice video ! Could you please leak that amazing spreadsheet of rope data so that we can make a more enlighten next purchase ?? Thanks a lot !
I saw a video about the edelrid pinch, it would be cool to see you test and review it!
I'm testing it ;)
nice channel, thank you!
It seems they don't put only ropes in their climatic chambers! Nice stuff in the background @ 12:00! (PS: We all do the same so no judgment on my side)
Top content. Thanks
Dope video!
thank you, man!
love these nerdy videos
11:00 why should the connection between diameter and weight be linear? it should be squared. doubling the diameter squares the crossectional area and hence it would also square the weight, right?
The guy working at the Sheath slippage machine has a nice collection of beers there ...
The standard for Sheath slippage testing defines how many beers have to be arround at any given time. It's standard metrology you know :D
Nice, new video ✌️👍
great video!
Thanks!
Great Video 👍
I'm wondiering if you just live at Mammut at this point. Would be nice to see the tests for Harnesses and other equipment as well.
Thanks man - your stuff is always fantastic. Do you plan to do anything on the new Edilrid Pinch?
Yea, I've brought it and testing, but probably going to take a while.until I publish anything
Thanks, I enjoyed watching and learning about rope. I now believe all offices should have mini bikes.
Awesome!😍
3:33 I love the cords belt. Does someone know the knots she used? Cheers😊
looks like double fisherman's
Nice to see you :D
Nice to read you
Okay, off topic but just saw the opening scene to the 2022 movie Fall. There were many observations I noticed that an experienced climber would never do. Would like your opinion of the many technical errors depicted in this movie. BTW, I truly enjoy viewing your videos and learning from them. Thanks for sharing.
Thomaso was such a vibe 😂
21:25: is that only for mammut ropes or also for ropes from other manufactures?
Actually it's more between brands some brands will have more soft ropes while others stiffer
your are amazing!!!
I'm still left with 2 questions;
First of all what about the most obvious stat, the minimum breaking strength? Would be curious how Mammut tests as compared to HowNot2.
And for the static elongation, why does it keep stretching? In real use, once the climber hangs in the rope, it stretches for a second at most and then reaches a balance. It seems like the testing machine keeps pulling however? If it exerts a constant 0.8kN of force shouldn't it reach a balance really fast as well?
cheers for nerding
I personally felt the difference in ropes. Especially with beal, it's really soft catch but loooooong fall.
27:30 why are the nuts called "bolts" here btw? Industry term?
Nah, it's actually nuts - it's probably more of a language being not native and using incorrect word
What do we think the weight limit is for a climber, considering the capacity of the rope, bolts, quick draws, harness, cams, nuts, etc? I ask out of curiosity, as I work with a number of bariatric patients in a hospital, some between 700 lbs (317 kg) and 1000 lbs (453 kg). If someone of this weight were to express an interest in climbing, at what weight do we think there would be safety concerns? Even when considering top roping in a gym, I assume there must be some limitations to the structure of the wall.
I love your videos! Thanks for any input!
They would run into all sorts of limitations I feel. Getting a harness that fits properly would be a big one.
this is anecdotal but i remember the edelrid people talking about weight in relation to cut-resistance of ropes (they have a few video about the topic), and how weight decrease it a lot, es: a very skinny rope with one person rappeling is less vulnerable than a thick rope with 2 people (for example tandem rappel or rescue situation).
as far as gym-climbing is concerned (no edges or wandering route) anybody capable of climbing is probably well within specs of the rope... magnus midtbo took eddie hall on top rope after all... the limiting factor is probably gonna be the harness and how to get it to properly fit.
Love this channel 😊Does anyone know if he has a video on clipping technique? If not I would really love to see that 😎
Hello Mr. Hard Is Easy 😁
It would be interesting for me to know what is the REAL difference between a doublerope and a 3x certified rope. I saw that e.g. the Beal Iceline 8.1 has a sheath mass of 41% in comparison to a Beal Opera 8.5 having 38% sheath mass. Is it valid to calculate e.g. 41 % of the 8.1mm rope and say the sheath there is thicker or is i really online the mass, which would be lower for the double rope if the sheath and the core would be the same weight- wich is surely not the case. Is there any info what is the weight of the core and sheath and des it play a role or does it depend more on the material, way of woving and so on...
I would be interessted in your mind to that topic.
Cheers
Yea technically more sheath % means more sheath material and should make a rope last longer to abrasion, but there are more factors to this as well that's why I'm wishing better standardised tests.
14:27
Watch out for the newest metric for ropes. 🐑
Sheep Sliffage
Haha I heard that too and smiled 🐑 💕
Your combined static & dynamic elongation chart showed that the Mammut 9.5 crag we care rope should have fairly low elongation. My personal experience with that rope is the exact opposite. Anecdotally it is noticeably stretchier than any other rope I have ever used 9mm and greater. Bar none. In fact we had two crag we care ropes , different lengths, and both were extremely stretchy. So take those measurements with a grain of salt
Well have you measured them? Cause feelings and reality aren't necessarily the same thing. For waht it's worth, I've climbed on a number of Crag We Care Ropes and I haven't ever felt that they were particularly stretchy compared to other ropes.
@@Aaron-xq6hv I mean I haven't tested them side by side with some other rope on the same route. But it's really obvious when you fall on them that you fall way further than you think you should compared to other similar sized ropes. Heck I jugged out using it once and I felt like I was on a bungy cord
@@Aaron-xq6hv So we figured out that it seems to be the white 9.5's that are super duper stretchy. The newer 9.7's aren't bad at all
@@markoneal9677 Interesting, thanks for the update. I'm kinda curious why or if something changed.
Can you share the database and charts?
Where can we find these charts for rope?
The elephant in the crag is mammut.
Bro how may i get connected with you for video editing
You're welcome 🙂
Can you share your database ?
Any chance of publicly sharing the rope data? 👀
Knotability protocol looks archaic - inaccurately at friction and flex. Then you take a few falls and get it dirty...
👏👏
My Tendon Ambition 10.5 mm is smaller than Beal Edlinger 10.2 mm. 🤔
She is so cool.
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
your "bolts" are in fact "nuts" !!!
6:08