Witam.czy mozna jakos prosic o pomoc bo mi juz rece opadaja do mechanikow.mojdeo mi 4 2.0tdci przedlift mam podobny objaw przy gaszeniu tak jak by klapa nie oraciwal poprawnie albo egr szwankuje i wplulywa na whlaczenie silnika.poduszki wymienione zero bkedow egr czyszczony obudowa klapy w srodku czyszczona sprawdzina dziala plynnie. Dwumas aywmieniona po ostrzejszej jezdzie albo dluzszej przed wylaczeniem silnika slychac ciezki buczenie tego silnika i wylaczenie nasteouje twaedo dokladnie jak na zdjeciu.klaoa sprawdzalem na zdjetym olocie podczas oracy i za kazdym razem sie wyoacza nirmlanie.rozbieralem klape czy zebatki nie zlamane wszytsko jak nowe.prosze o pomic forum firda volvo cytryny nje umie pomoc ani zaden mechanior z moich okolic.bede dozgonnie wdzieczny
Normally the throttle body is operated by the ECU, it is a 5v circuit. And this cirscuit is at fault. In other words you need to get a new throttle body or have your reconditioned. The 12v circuit is a different, service circuit, which helps you test/digagnose the throttle body by Opcom or TEch2. But it doesn't operate the throttle body in normal conditions so it is no help.
the 5v circuit is ok and that's the way it was designed, at least I've been told so. The problem is the 5v can't close the flap completely because the electornics and the mechanics in the throttle body is sticky, dirty, faulty etc. The OP-COM test uses 12V so it is more powerful, so it is able to close the flap despite the fact the body is sticky, faulty, dirty.
Can the anti-shudder be removed without mapping it out? Is it recommended to remove it? I have a z19dth zafira b, and want to make it as reliable as possible.. Ive already fitted silicone boost pipes, EGR and DPF deleted, EGR fully blanked off, Swirl flap deleted... Should i remove the shudder valve?!?
Check over the intercooler pipe from the turbo to the intake for splits... they will cause it to run rough but will be hard to find at idle with no boost but will cause a he'll of a whoosh when you but the hammer down.
could be crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, though I believe they would throw an error code if they were at fault. When you increase the revs, all is fine?
Nice video! So actually this is an electrical problem? Like cold solderings? If I cancel the TB from the software will it stop the noise?
yes got my diesel filter and air filter done and kinda been that way ever since thats why im thinking its drawing air
Witam.czy mozna jakos prosic o pomoc bo mi juz rece opadaja do mechanikow.mojdeo mi 4 2.0tdci przedlift mam podobny objaw przy gaszeniu tak jak by klapa nie oraciwal poprawnie albo egr szwankuje i wplulywa na whlaczenie silnika.poduszki wymienione zero bkedow egr czyszczony obudowa klapy w srodku czyszczona sprawdzina dziala plynnie. Dwumas aywmieniona po ostrzejszej jezdzie albo dluzszej przed wylaczeniem silnika slychac ciezki buczenie tego silnika i wylaczenie nasteouje twaedo dokladnie jak na zdjeciu.klaoa sprawdzalem na zdjetym olocie podczas oracy i za kazdym razem sie wyoacza nirmlanie.rozbieralem klape czy zebatki nie zlamane wszytsko jak nowe.prosze o pomic forum firda volvo cytryny nje umie pomoc ani zaden mechanior z moich okolic.bede dozgonnie wdzieczny
hello, I have 1.7cdti z17dtl and my throttle body never closes, I have tried 2 bodies of second hand and same result.
If it does it through opcom what will be the problem?
hello what does that mean.. the ecu circuit 5v is at fautl? i have the sae probleme on my astra h gtc z19dt.. i all ready change 3 TB ..please help
Normally the throttle body is operated by the ECU, it is a 5v circuit. And this cirscuit is at fault. In other words you need to get a new throttle body or have your reconditioned. The 12v circuit is a different, service circuit, which helps you test/digagnose the throttle body by Opcom or TEch2. But it doesn't operate the throttle body in normal conditions so it is no help.
did you trace the reason for no 5v reference at plug?
the 5v circuit is ok and that's the way it was designed, at least I've been told so. The problem is the 5v can't close the flap completely because the electornics and the mechanics in the throttle body is sticky, dirty, faulty etc. The OP-COM test uses 12V so it is more powerful, so it is able to close the flap despite the fact the body is sticky, faulty, dirty.
Can the anti-shudder be removed without mapping it out?
Is it recommended to remove it?
I have a z19dth zafira b, and want to make it as reliable as possible..
Ive already fitted silicone boost pipes, EGR and DPF deleted, EGR fully blanked off, Swirl flap deleted...
Should i remove the shudder valve?!?
It's job it to shut down the engine. Without it, the eninge will never stop working.
Wrong an Opel vectra 1.9cdti I have here I turn of key and stops working. And egr stills open
my vectra 1.9 cdti is running rough 55 plate feels like its drawing air any ideas thanks .
any error codes read?
Check over the intercooler pipe from the turbo to the intake for splits... they will cause it to run rough but will be hard to find at idle with no boost but will cause a he'll of a whoosh when you but the hammer down.
no just running rough as if idle is slow but revs are sitting fine
could be crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, though I believe they would throw an error code if they were at fault. When you increase the revs, all is fine?
Take the silly music off.. the whole point is to hear the engine either shuddering or not………