I just picked up those same jack stands. I’m glad this video showed so clearly where to place them in the front. I wasn’t aware of that spot. I’ve got the right spots in the rear.
Awesome that you figured it out Kevin! A lot of people would have given up and just lived with it. With all the work and effort, you deserve the success. Props for your determination!
Thanks. I always had a rattle and it came from many locations but I never spent much time doing any diagnosis on it. My whole goal was a complete suspension refresh. Not to replace what is worn but a clean slate as I plan on holding onto the car for a long time. Never thought a fuel pump would be a contributory to all my noises.
Thanks for sharing your experience. We all go through those things. Cant wait to find out what the real issue and learn more about fuel pump. With the numerous of times you have had to jack up the car, perhaps time to get Quick Jack? I just got them and makes life so much easier!
Yes there is a metal ball in the fuel level part it will be interesting to see why it’s rattling like that. I do want a lift I have been looking at the maxjack. Maybe when I get to 5k subscribers I’ll treat myself haha
Hey Kevin, Kevin here. Thanks for sharing, interesting rattle, as mine had/has a quite similar issue. Had my mechanic go over the suspension and check for worn components, but found nothing. The rattle is intermittent and happens when it’s warm out. I’ll continue to listen and see if the rattle returns when the fuel tank is full or close to empty. Thanks for sharing. Driving an ‘04 C2, Arctic Silver 6sp
When I had a full tank of gas the sound was definitely quieter but still there. If this sounds something like what you are experiencing. remove the battery and the tray below it shake the car make sure the tank is low on gas. I had shaken the car a few times while it was on the jack stands and never heard anything while the tank was full. With the cover off its really easy to hear.
Hi Kevin, great series man! Glad you found the issue. I'll be checking that first on my 996. I think I may have commented on one of your other videos about this but it may be a good idea to let your viewers know that you must torque the suspension when it's in the unladen position. I.e. on the ground. I measure from the center hub to the bottom of the fender. I'll then use my jack to lift the rotor up to the measured position and then torque. On the topic of the rattle, my 2002 996 has a similar problem but I haven't started diagnosis until now. I'll be doing a video of me driving around with a hot mic to capture the sounds I'm getting from the right side. I'm also going to check out the fuel pump right now. I'll send it your way via Instagram DM.
I haven’t been mentioning about loading up the suspension before torquing the bolts cause I use urethane bushing. Nice little feature that you don’t have to do that.
I’m prettty sure you put a stethoscope to it and it’s really loud, loud enough for over camera. But almost non existent when you have a full tank of gas on the outside but still can hear it in the car.
Im super impressed with how calm and patient you have been over this!! What are you thoughts on the 441's now that you've got some mileage on them? I think they look to be good value.
Now that I've had them I like them I usually drive with the front at 5 and the rear at 10. comfortable ride but still handles great. car is really flat around the turns. I can push it really hard. For the Price they are hard to beat.
Now that you’ve been all over that suspension and have lived with the car for a while with the poly powerflex bushings, what’s your opinion of the results? Is it a good ride? Better handling? Worth the work of pressing out old bushings and new ones in?
Well I guess that depends on your goal for the car. I wanted the max street handling that I can get and maybe some auto autocross in the future. But not too harsh and that I can live with on long distances. So no solid joints. I don’t find the urethane bushing harsh it is definitely stiff. I still feel I do have a comfortable ride and increased steering response. Is it worth the cost. If my ball joints were worn and I had to get new arms I would have probably not installed them. At least not right away. My ball joints are still in very good shape still tight in the socket I thought for the price it’s worth it. The rubber was a little worn but not bad. Of you can put them in yourself then go for it if your goal is like mine. Have you watched my install video? It isn’t too hard just time consuming. Can be done with basic tools. The inner bushings can’t be pressed out. Only the outer one. The inner bushing in a two piece design that has a lip on both sides. So it can’t be pressed through unless it is removed but cutting it off. Ans you Risk cutting into the arm if you do.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Awesome - thanks for the detailed response. I have a 2003 C2. Some of the original rubber bushings are visibly worn or cracking. I’m debating a poly option like you did vs more OEM like Meyle or something. I definitely saw your install videos on that. That’s what has me leaning toward poly.
I just picked up those same jack stands. I’m glad this video showed so clearly where to place them in the front. I wasn’t aware of that spot. I’ve got the right spots in the rear.
Yes thats right on the frame rail. Very sturdy spot. Thanks for watching..
Awesome that you figured it out Kevin! A lot of people would have given up and just lived with it. With all the work and effort, you deserve the success. Props for your determination!
Thanks. I always had a rattle and it came from many locations but I never spent much time doing any diagnosis on it. My whole goal was a complete suspension refresh. Not to replace what is worn but a clean slate as I plan on holding onto the car for a long time. Never thought a fuel pump would be a contributory to all my noises.
I’m happy you found it. That would drive me nuts too.
Having so much fun watching you struggle through this. I have shared your frustration and determination. These are great videos. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching. More to come haha
I would not have thought of the fuel pump, situated below the battery tray. I hope that it is finaly that, kevin.👍
I'll know for sure in a day or two when I finally pull it out.
well. on the plus side you now have a fantastic tight and new front suspension system :-)
Yes I do!
I hope you finally identify the origin of this noise. Great job. Thanks !!
Thanks I hope this will help others who might experience this same issue.
Hooray Kevin !!
I'm happy its finally over
Persistence, think you got it!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing your experience. We all go through those things. Cant wait to find out what the real issue and learn more about fuel pump. With the numerous of times you have had to jack up the car, perhaps time to get Quick Jack? I just got them and makes life so much easier!
Yes there is a metal ball in the fuel level part it will be interesting to see why it’s rattling like that. I do want a lift I have been looking at the maxjack. Maybe when I get to 5k subscribers I’ll treat myself haha
Awesome videos, I've been following your progress with alot of interest as I too have got a similar problem on my 996 turbo
Thanks for watching! I hope I was able to help
Hey Kevin, Kevin here. Thanks for sharing, interesting rattle, as mine had/has a quite similar issue. Had my mechanic go over the suspension and check for worn components, but found nothing. The rattle is intermittent and happens when it’s warm out. I’ll continue to listen and see if the rattle returns when the fuel tank is full or close to empty. Thanks for sharing. Driving an ‘04 C2, Arctic Silver 6sp
When I had a full tank of gas the sound was definitely quieter but still there. If this sounds something like what you are experiencing. remove the battery and the tray below it shake the car make sure the tank is low on gas. I had shaken the car a few times while it was on the jack stands and never heard anything while the tank was full. With the cover off its really easy to hear.
Hi Kevin, great series man! Glad you found the issue. I'll be checking that first on my 996.
I think I may have commented on one of your other videos about this but it may be a good idea to let your viewers know that you must torque the suspension when it's in the unladen position. I.e. on the ground. I measure from the center hub to the bottom of the fender. I'll then use my jack to lift the rotor up to the measured position and then torque.
On the topic of the rattle, my 2002 996 has a similar problem but I haven't started diagnosis until now. I'll be doing a video of me driving around with a hot mic to capture the sounds I'm getting from the right side. I'm also going to check out the fuel pump right now. I'll send it your way via Instagram DM.
I haven’t been mentioning about loading up the suspension before torquing the bolts cause I use urethane bushing. Nice little feature that you don’t have to do that.
the fuel pump probably isnt your rattle that ball in there rattles on all of them. Is your suspension all original?
I hope you finally got it!
I’m prettty sure you put a stethoscope to it and it’s really loud, loud enough for over camera. But almost non existent when you have a full tank of gas on the outside but still can hear it in the car.
Good catch.........
Thanks
Good argument for correctly diagnosing a problem before you start throwing money at it....a mechanics stethoscope can be had for >$10...
Im super impressed with how calm and patient you have been over this!!
What are you thoughts on the 441's now that you've got some mileage on them? I think they look to be good value.
Now that I've had them I like them I usually drive with the front at 5 and the rear at 10. comfortable ride but still handles great. car is really flat around the turns. I can push it really hard. For the Price they are hard to beat.
nice job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks
Now that you’ve been all over that suspension and have lived with the car for a while with the poly powerflex bushings, what’s your opinion of the results? Is it a good ride? Better handling? Worth the work of pressing out old bushings and new ones in?
Well I guess that depends on your goal for the car. I wanted the max street handling that I can get and maybe some auto autocross in the future. But not too harsh and that I can live with on long distances. So no solid joints. I don’t find the urethane bushing harsh it is definitely stiff. I still feel I do have a comfortable ride and increased steering response. Is it worth the cost. If my ball joints were worn and I had to get new arms I would have probably not installed them. At least not right away. My ball joints are still in very good shape still tight in the socket I thought for the price it’s worth it. The rubber was a little worn but not bad. Of you can put them in yourself then go for it if your goal is like mine. Have you watched my install video? It isn’t too hard just time consuming. Can be done with basic tools. The inner bushings can’t be pressed out. Only the outer one. The inner bushing in a two piece design that has a lip on both sides. So it can’t be pressed through unless it is removed but cutting it off. Ans you Risk cutting into the arm if you do.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Awesome - thanks for the detailed response. I have a 2003 C2. Some of the original rubber bushings are visibly worn or cracking. I’m debating a poly option like you did vs more OEM like Meyle or something.
I definitely saw your install videos on that. That’s what has me leaning toward poly.
Go poly I was on the fence at first too but happy I did. This summer I’ll finish the rears. I have the bushing not just trying to find time.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Great! Looking forward to the vid!
Awesome videos, I've been following your progress with alot of interest as I too have got a similar problem on my 996 turbo
Cool, thanks