*SHOP* Down4Sound JP8 1200W Amplifier: lddy.no/vvaw Pyle PLQB10 (not recommended): amzn.to/40RdMZC SKAR Audio 10" Loaded Subwoofer: amzn.to/3E0CZa5 FLUKE Multimeter: amzn.to/3XknccY *RELATED VIDEOS* $20 Walmart Subwoofer Tested and Blown Up: ruclips.net/video/-LFJq6Gw7C4/видео.html What's Inside Cheap Walmart Subwoofer? ruclips.net/video/ISl9Kn8lAjc/видео.html Rockville Ground Pounder Subwoofer: ruclips.net/video/xzDssefdwx4/видео.html *VIDEO AND AUDIO GEAR* Camera - iPhone 13pro 1TB - amzn.to/3nCjGvc RODE Wireless Go II Microphones: amzn.to/3Q6NVHl Shure MV7 Microphone: amzn.to/3A4OICK Zoom H4n Audio Recorder: amzn.to/3BXjVsS 960 LED Panel: amzn.to/2Sxoq3S TEST BENCH EQUIPMENT SMD / D'Amore Engineering Amp Dyno: goo.gl/sJTcf7 XS Power D1400 Batteries - amzn.to/2BPFCKW XS Power PSC60 Charger - amzn.to/2CHGcfs Fluke 1000A AC/DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2Rw5WDA Handheld Dyno: amzn.to/2u2EgKV My Favorite Screwdriver Kit: amzn.to/2x0VzcE _DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases_
The cabinet itself may not be that bad of a deal for that price. It would be interesting to see what happens when a real sub is installed and see if it can handle 1000+ watts without blowing the bass ports out or blowing off the Lexan panel.
The box will fall apart, you are lucky if this box survives a 300w sub to be honest 😂 going to need some heavy modifications if you actually want to use it with something properly.
Pyle was not always junk. Back in my time they made (for that time period) great amps, speakers, and subs. The they were bought out along with Lanzar and were turned to the crap we have today. Nothing sadder than that.
Yep, their old school "Pyle Drivers" (a pun, I think, on the wrestling move - I can't remember the 80s wrestler that did it) were incredible, with huge magnets. They would often go head-to-head against Earthquake, back in the day.
Did you register them at Pyle? It would be interesting to see if they would honor their warranty seeing as you have documented evidence that they fail well short of their rated power levels. Wouldn't this be part of a review?
Yes keep the box, and then try and find a replacement Sub or a better quality Sub that would fit and sounds good for that size enclosure? [ MTX Blue Thunder, Kenwood Excelon Series Sub, Kicker Comp Sub ]
I bought 2 of these, basically for the enclosures. I thought the subs would hold me over for a few weeks until I could afford to upgrade them. The little Rockville RXD-T2 I also bought on sale from Woot made little work of blowing these things. Now I've got a 10" Rockville K6 V2 on the way. Gonna throw that in one and see how it goes.
@@theunknownandunsolved6963 Not good lol. The K6 was the wrong sub to go with. Even though it's 10" the cast aluminum basket is very beefy and the mount is just too big for these boxes. I bought a new cheap small sealed enclosure and I'm very satisfied with the K6.
Everyone hates on Rockville, but I LOVE my Rockville amp, been running it hard for maybe 6 years on a old square kicker. Maybe the quality has dipped in recent years, but mine has been awesome
These aren’t that bad if you only want to run around 100 watts rms to add a small amount of bass and they can reliably do that. Pyle rates them like they do their amps thinking you will pair them up and their 1000 watt amp only outputs maybe 200 watts peak. That 350 watts of power was just shredding it.
Especially on a continuous tone generator, rather than the kick and bass hits of a pop song, which is how a lot of speakers get rated. They don't need to handle an endless drone tone of 500 watts, only Phil Rudd's kick drum that momentarily gets to 500 watts.
Not surprised you blew them both. 500w is always a joke with companies like that. RMS is probably more around 150w if you are lucky. A soon as I saw it hit 300w, I was thinking it was blown and then the clip light lit up.
Wow! I really thought it would do a little better then that. At $20 that just about covers the price for the wood and carpet 😂 I was hoping you would put in a better woofer that could handle at least 400 watts and push it with out that thin plexiglass.
If it can be pulled out then another woofer can be installed. It depends what he has on hand. A long extension attached to a drill could be used as well 😉
The question I have is, would you think the enclosure by itself worth $20 dollars . A lot of spots want $100+ just for enclosure. I would rather spend $20 and toss the sun that came with it and put within spec a better sub
If you can find a sub that will work properly with those dimensions the box seems to be pretty decent, just a bit small whitch makes finding a driver harder. You'd have to do some modeling with the listed specs of multiple subs before buying a woofer.
I'm I graduated high school in 1993 and ran Pro Pyle 10's in a sealed box, sounded pretty good. Put them in a bandpass box made for 12's (plated over the holes with ¾ MDF and obviously drilled for 10's) hell they were ridiculously loud! Back then they definitely were made a lot better. Powered by a Fosgate 500w dyno'd at 734w, they were always under rated. I still have the amp and it works flawlessly.
A friend of mine has a set of 15” Pyle subs back in the early 90’s. They SLAMMED harder than anything around. As for today🤷🏼♂️. It’s amazing they can make an enclosure with a sub for $20 let alone sell it for $20 and make a profit. Junk or not. They figure for $20 no one’s gonna bitch.
Yes- I had 2- 15's Pro Pyle Subs, I never had any problems with them at all? Until they couldn't fit in my 95 Honda Accord? Had to get some 12's Kicker Solo in a Custom Sealed Small Box.
I have 2 pyle power 10 inch subs in my custom built floorstanding speakers in my home. They have been going strong now for like 8 years. Getting daily use of about 30 watts to 100 watts rms.
Then you better say that about every brand, including the big ones like JL, who does a biblical level of lying (selling you a $1k+ W7 that cost $25 to make and is basically the same as any cheap sub, but claims it is "high in technology")
@@majicdude88 yeah.... but no. I'm rocking that dual slug Walmart $100 sub right next to my skar audio evl 12 and I'm using the JL Audio 500/1 monoblock to drive that Walmart sub so I'm not being so easy on it. Granted.. I have the scar on 1000 watt monoblock but still..... 😬 these results are very sad.
Can't wait to see how this performs with a better subwoofer! Even for $100 if the box quality is good and is tuned right a subwoofer like a Skar SDR or more SQ Rockford Fosgate R2/P1 would sound amazing for less than $200.
Amazing? No. Better? Yeah I guess. I still think that enclosure size is way too small and trying to tune it lower your just going to end up losing a ton of output
@@chrishernandez2490 That is a good point, but it depends on if you put some polyfill in and what the subwoofer's capable of running in such a small box.
I bought one of their 1k watt 15 inch subs and it lasted about 5 min and it never saw more then 300 watts. I had their pro series 4x6s and 6.5 components in my truck and they sounded pretty good even though I never gave them the 200 watts rms they said they would take . The magnets were 40oz on the 6.5s which was more then the subwoofer had.
First set of midrange I ever bought was Pyle back in 86, they were decent back then. Box looks like it's worth 20$ if you were in the need. Be nice to see a decent sub put in that like you mentioned.
Back in about 1992 I had a set of PYLE POUNDERS in 12 inch. Powering them was a a punch 75 they were in a fleamarket prefab posted box. I honestly have to admit they held their ground! In the hatch back of my 1983 Toyota celica. They had huge magnets! The car was stolen and never recovered.
Good to see Pyle hasnt changed. I bought a dual 10" pyle bandpass back in 98 from a pawn shop for my first system. The speaker bottomed out after about a month and just popped. I learned my lesson and got a 15" MTX after that.
Cool video!!!! I think if you apply a steep 25Hz highpass filter that sub will last much much longer. This will prevent the woofer running way out of its XMax. i guess this woofer has around 100 - 150 watts rms.
Yup I'd say 125 watts max....On occasion Pyle puts out an honest spec sheet on their speakers. Generally they are lying about everything. RMS watts are 1/4 or less whatever's printed on the speaker or box it came in. Even the weight of the magnet is about 1/2 whatever they state. Frequency response for a 10 will be more like 35hz or higher....IMO the only thing Pyle are good for is to add a little base to a factory sound system. The sub in this vid added to a 10 watts per channel base model sound system would be a nice improvement. For anything else it's pure junk.
I recently bought one of their tube style sub/enclosures. I couldn't even tell there was a sub in the trunk, total toilet water. I remember friends having Pyle drivers that thumped back in the day, oh how they have fallen.
Friend of mine used to do car audio competitions back in the 90s. His sponsor hooked him up with a couple Pyle Super Blue 15s. For not being the best subs those things hit hard. He won several competitions with them.
I have a pair of 12 Super Blues 600 watts subs but I believe mine are pyramid and they sound decent for what they are there 8 ohms svc in a sealed box they sound really good to me. I still bump them from time to time when trying amps out that I buy
I thought the Pyle were Blue Wave, and the old Super Blue were Super Pro brand made by Pyramid. A cousin had the Super Pro Super Blue 15’s and they got surprisingly loud on a few hundred watts. I picked up a pair of those old 90’s Super Pro Super Blue 12’s (the old ones without that jimmy neutron looking logo on the dust cap) many years ago but sadly the cones got trashed during a move. Still have them, but not really worth reconing.
One of the first ever systems I had was that same box and sub. I swapped it to the Skar IX 12 and put a ply wood 1/2” thick front cover. Had it on a skar lp-750.1 and it actually sounded great.
I actually got one of these. I paid about double what you did. I replaced the sub and did some strategic gluing. I dont think i could get a box this size for that. Great video..
I picked up 12 8inch pyle power series off Amazon last year for around 22.00 each. Ran it through my audio control dq61 and a planet audio 2500 mono 2ohm. Wired 8 to 1ohm in band pass on a wall.sent about 750 rms. I was surprised on bang for buck 23cuft shared ported box. Didn't blow any of them. You should test those next.
Multiple cheap subs with plenty of enclosure volume to breathe and not over powered can do pretty well. Also they can be quite economical at turning amp power into sound. But for getting the LOUDEST car, cramming multiple beefy woofers into the same place will always win.
I ran 4 8” subwoofer set ups back in the late 80’s/ early 90’s and began with Pyle drivers. By the early 90’s they had fallen behind and I moved on to better brands. About 10 years ago I was in need of a pair of subs and I bought a pair of Pyle 8” subs along with a set of nos JL Audio 8”s just to see how Pyle was doing. The Pyles were absolutely horrible. They had a very low distorted output that could’ve come from a flea market woofer. I paid around $50 each but I let my son sell the pair for $20 so no one could feel ripped off. Pyle is just the worst of zombie audio brands now.
I have a Pyle home "sound bar" unit. I love it. The box has split apart a bit. But it puts out decent loud and good sound in Garage environment. I don't max volume to preserve its life.
Great review as usual! I have to say, considering the cost of building the enclosure, the terminal cup, the port tubes, threaded inserts etc I think I'd buy a couple just to throw in some old school MTX 10" subs I've had laying around. Plus this is a 2nd order bandpass enclosure that with upgrades to the acrylic panel, maybe twice the thickness or a rigid aluminum plate would solve makes me want a couple versus building them from scratch. It might be interesting to see how it performs with a higher grade sub and a thicker front panel if you have any lying around :).
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground Likewise, I have a couple of Polk Audio 10's in a 2nd order bandpass made by Q-Logic back in the 90's and they perform incredibly well in that setup without driving them to hard. Massive amounts of low bass from it. Sometimes experimentation will reveal surprisingly good results :)
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground Would love to have seen that 😆. Sounds like we're both old school rockers. I still love building and have leaned more towards SQ most of the time but now I'm into SPL a little too. Having a suburban I find there is always a little more to expand the audio system and try new things. Just tried the new Recoil red600 and I'm really liking it driving a single 12" kicker box but then I would never give up on my old Eclipse or Linear Power stuff or the liquid cooled Bazooka amps. Too hard to find the old stuff in good condition anymore. Hoping to see Derick do a review of one of the old school Bazooka amps with or without cooling. My ba1300 is rated at only 375 watts but I've dyno'd it at 537 at 2 ohms. Really curious to see if he would get similar results.
I personally wouldn’t waste the time nor expense of a thicker acrylic sheet; at the cost of a larger piece of acrylic, or thick aluminum, plus this box, you could build a custom one that is all around better (okay, maybe cost slightly higher, but worth it over trying to upgrade this type). I had a couple 2x12” bandpass boxes years ago with a larger acrylic sheet and same thickness (about 1/4" thick) and they worked fine. Sure there is flex, but making it rigid didn't make a perceivable difference, maybe on an SPL meter you'd see it, or a slight change in response graphs, but not noticeable from normal listening. I remember swapping it out with 3/4” MDF which is pretty rigid thinking it would help, and honestly put the acrylic back on. These are never going to be used with ultra high power subs, rather a few hundred real world watts, so the stock acrylic should be fine for the kind of subs that will make their way into these boxes. I’d be more concerned with the wood panels being glued together well. I had a Pyle PLBP122 bandpass 20+ years ago and had to glue the panels so it didn’t rattle. Other than that $20 is a fair price for just the box, even if it needs a little glue. The 1/4" x 10"x10" acrylic sheet on it cost nearly 20 by itself. Obviously if you wish to upgrade the acrylic, nothing wrong with doing that, I just don't believe it is worth the added cost / effort for very minimal, if any noticeable bass response changes. If you do it, and can do a before and after SPL reading, post back as I'd certainly be curious to know what measurable differences you got. And please don't take offense to my comment, just made me think back playing with these style boxes and my thoughts on the idea.
Also wanted to add. Another cheap box to look for, the old Jensen 2x10” bandpass box with the 4 ports on the top rear if you want a box with thicker acrylic, it 5/16", which makes the one on this Pyle look really thin in comparison. I have a couple of those Jensen boxes still, they pop up cheap from time to time.
@@621ELECTRONICS Valid points to be sure, I was thinking more along the lines of using material already on hand to correct the issue of vibration with this boxes acrylic. I just figure that out looks fairly well constructed other than that for a run of the mill subwoofer maybe in the other of 500 watts or less. Not sure how far they go in box construction but it looks to be on video that it may be ¾" or ⅝ at minimum. Of course the port tubes need securing but again I think for $20 it's not had minus the front acrylic and the subwoofer they stuffed in it. Seems the material would be worth the cost at least. Of course building from scratch would be better it's more for me anyway a case of could something good be made from this enclosure by itself. Being over the hill and short of time for projects makes a difference for me as well :)
there was a short time between 88-93 when Pyle was decent entry level brand, now they are on par with Kraco. I think the parent company licenses the name out to any company that produces garbage hoping ppl buy it out of nostalgia.
I have a similar Jensen 10 inch sub in a very similar band pass box , it has to be 30 years old it was given to me with some other better audio I bought , it actually does good for what it is and still works to this day .I doubt it was 20 bucks new ,and it's that one hit wonder
Back in the mid-80's Pyle made a good product. I bought a truck speaker with 6.5" subs in it. If I wanted too, I could have told folks I had 10's in there. That speaker system hit hard. Pyle sold a few more speakers down the road because of those 6.5 subs. Those things were legit. Wish I still had them
I remember that too. A buddy of mine had two Pile 12 in his Toyota truck with MBcourt mids and couple Sherwood amps. Remember correctly I think it was a Sherwood 240 and a 180
I worked with a guy that had a 64 Chevy 4 door. Everyone hassled him about putting 4 Pyramid subs in the trunk. They were about the same level as Pyle. Though back then those Pyramids actually created a huge level of noise....
Haha good stuff big D! I also bought this woofer box combo knowing it's weak and it'll blow easy. I just hooked it up to my factory Radio in the trunk for a little bump
Haven't been into car audio since the mid to late 90's. I suppose it's comforting to see Pyle has stayed consistent after all these years. The question stops being, "Why do people buy this?" And becomes, "Why does a company even bother making this?"
I still got my Pile box the one from the late 90s with the mid-range tweeters built-in it's behind the seat of a truck those holdup work great even to this day they need to stop selling out their brand for bargain-basement and improve the quality of little bit so it holds up
interesting thing is that coil is not burnt up in the slightest, gotta be an adhesive failure. would have sounded like junk thanks to the box, but also would have lasted with the correct adhesive.
Back in day, I did my buds Dodge Neon with cheap Pyle stuff...subs, amp, speakers, etc. The whole legit car audio setup was like $120 lol. It was actually sick af...we grew up in the hood and everyone loved it.
The coil was not even slightly darkened,so it would have probably taken a lot more power for a lot longer,but the adhesive failed,which is kinda weird they would cut costs/make mistakes there
It’s actually kinda sad tbh. I’d much rather pay a little more for a decent quality. The cabinet looks great it just sounds like the electronics are crap. They could easily fix this and rase the price a little for a decent speaker
We use to have our box guy swear up and down pyle audiobahn subs were no joke. But I use to love seeing that guy take cheap subs and make great sounding systems with them. 25 dollar SPL subs in a crazy box he made. Man it was awesome
When I first built my Civic I wanted a cheap set of subs, an amp, and mids and highs with their own amp as well. I bought a set of Pyle 12s, Pyle two way 6.5s and three way 6x9s, and I bought a cheap 1200 watt amp (because Pyle claimed that the 12s were 800 watts each). I bought a sheet of 3/4" MDF and built a 34 hz bandpass box for them. They honestly didn't sound terrible (but that's because my car was a coupe and they were in a proper box). I also bought a supposed "3000 watt" Lanzar amp with all spade connector inputs. I never even installed it. I bought a set of Sundown SA12-D2s and an Orion HCCA 3k watt SPLX amp (which almost caught on fire for whatever reason) and I sold the Pyle 12s, the box, and the Lanzar amp to a kid for $250. He was so excited. He put them in his old Accord and he would swear that they slammed, but that Lanzar 3000 watt amp pushed maybe 100 watts at full gain...lmao
Funny I bought the 12 inch version some 20 years ago looking quite the same build as that . Sounded just like that . The magnet was broken free from the basket out the box. They get slammed around in shipping .you could have most likely re-centered and glued the magnet and re-glued it and it would have probably been fine. For about 10 minutes at low volume .
To be fair, the voice coil didn't actually burn out the copper wire just wasn't properly bonded on to the former and fell off jamming itself into the magnet gap. Had this been done properly it would have lasted longer and gave better results?
Nice video, Thanks! For that price you can't make something like this! Like other people saying put a JL, Polk or something like that in it they can handle this housing, maybe a thicker acryl panel, modding the ports and it plays good I think!
The enclosures themselves do not sound Too bad. What I would do if I were, you is open them up? And replace the woofers with something decent. And then close them back up and see what they sound like. With something halfway decent inside. Then redo the test. You might be surprised what it would sound like. With a decent subwoofer inside the cabinet.
Ive always used pyle woofers 8 in dual coils, 10 in 30oz mag and 15 in 40oz. They where mounted in 77 and 80 olds cutlass behind the seat non boxed. Never blew them running 300watt Yamaha amp. Gain turned down they had low end hard hit. Just my experience.
Nice boxes, hey I just got a new amp and putting my OLD pyle driver 12s in a classic box. My pyles are like early 90s awesome they been in my 84 cerwin vega house speakers for over 15 years they are USA made. Best woofers I ever had. Most of the China speakers suck. I can't wait to hook it up today....
I still have a Pyle 800 watt 4 channel amp from the 80’s, it works fine for powering full range car speakers. It’s huge though, I don’t actually use it.
Hello! Did you make the US$ 70 enclosure test? I'd like to see your review about those cool looking dual speaker bandpass/acrylic enclosure. I find having the front of the speakers sealed is very awkward 😅. Thanks.
You should get your sub building feet wet and re cone that turd, you can get a cone spider and coil for about $20 be kinda cool to re do that driver and give her another go. Re coming is not only a good thing in general but it's really fun to take a dead woofer and hear it thump again. It's really fun to reconnect a cheap sub that would normally get tossed in the trash. I took a slinkied Polk db12 D4 and popped the top plate off and milled it a bit to accept a 4 layer copper coil it only had a 2 layer coil replaced the poly cone with a pressed paper cone and a new soft spider to keep the FS really low and make it efficient, (that's a JL formula and its hits nice n low sounds really buttery smooth but it limits power handling...does that description sound like a JL? Yeah) and actually bumps pretty good. It would have been tossed but for not much money at all and I have a 350w+ 12" sub that hits really low. With it's low FS It works great in a 2cf ported box as a HT sub and rumbles great on only 250w. I call it the Polk super db.
Hey this sounds like a great idea any pointers on getting some replacement parts for this? I also got a 12w7 that I was going to send back to jl for the $250 rebuild but they stopped doing it just before I blew on me, looking to recone that one too
I bought a Pyle 10in 4 ohm DVC Speaker for $13 bucks, rated at 500W and 1000W peak. I barley had it turn up on a 50W amp, bridged to 2 ohms, and blew immediately ... well it came with a 30 day warranty so I said I'll get a replacement and try again .... Wrong... I get the 2nd one a week later and say, "I'll wire it as 8 ohms more resistant and give it a Lil less power maybe". Well I was able to get a nice little thump for a minute and soon heard crackling SMH Pyle use to be the Shizznit back in the day and thats what made me try it out in the first place...
They were at one time 20 years ago built a bit better. I installed one of these back in the day for my cousin with a 300w Jensen amp it made enough bass to get the mirrors vibrating. Compared to the tiny crappy 4" speakers the car had it was a massive upgrade for her. The new ones are really garbage in comparison to their own product from the 90's.
I have two Pyle Power subs I use in my garage stereo. One is an 8” and the other is a 10”. I don’t dare use them in my truck. The voice coils bottom out at low power. They’re ok for my garage stereo though.
Cheap Speakers and Subs will sound great at low volume [ 200 watts and lower 🤣🤣🤣 ]? They can't even last during the demo, please people do your homework and research before buying?🤣🤣🤣
The funny part is you did not burn the woofer up, you reached heat over the point the glue they used to put the voicecoil to the former and the VC slipped off. Smell was that glue cause that copper looked mint.
I have a question.Can a person use these boxes for a Kicker Comp Q 10's would these box's hold up the power of them ? And do you think they would sound good
Lol. I bought a "Mutant" compo, Amp and Sub cheap. It was 12" ported. Within a month it stopped working. When I pulled the Unit out it had vibrated the Magnet off. I made an adapter ring and fitted a 10" "Infinite" sub for about £80 and then the Enclosure didn't sound half bad! 😂✌❤🙏🍻🇬🇧
i agree Big D, Five guys is brutal.This is not a piece I would buy, but I am glad there is something for every budget...the box alone is easily worth 20 bucks, throw a cheap Rockford in there and it might be a good sub for a beginner
So the issue is the glue that barely held up coil wire on the former. Usually if the coil is blown, the wire itself turns black due to extreme overheating and only then it falls off, but look here, turns are not even slightly darker than usual. If the manufacturer wouldn't save a couple of cents on the glue, maybe it would hold a bit more power. What a shame though...
its 150w rms and 500peak that tends to blow when pushing over 200w to a $20 sub I put 2 of these in the grandkids car with 150w mono rockford amp they been going almost 2yrs now i got them for the boxes but the subs are going good I did have to replace the p-glass on one not sure if it broke or he broke it I used 3/8 p-glass and changed both. thanks for sharing
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
*SHOP*
Down4Sound JP8 1200W Amplifier: lddy.no/vvaw
Pyle PLQB10 (not recommended): amzn.to/40RdMZC
SKAR Audio 10" Loaded Subwoofer: amzn.to/3E0CZa5
FLUKE Multimeter: amzn.to/3XknccY
*RELATED VIDEOS*
$20 Walmart Subwoofer Tested and Blown Up: ruclips.net/video/-LFJq6Gw7C4/видео.html
What's Inside Cheap Walmart Subwoofer? ruclips.net/video/ISl9Kn8lAjc/видео.html
Rockville Ground Pounder Subwoofer: ruclips.net/video/xzDssefdwx4/видео.html
*VIDEO AND AUDIO GEAR*
Camera - iPhone 13pro 1TB - amzn.to/3nCjGvc
RODE Wireless Go II Microphones: amzn.to/3Q6NVHl
Shure MV7 Microphone: amzn.to/3A4OICK
Zoom H4n Audio Recorder: amzn.to/3BXjVsS
960 LED Panel: amzn.to/2Sxoq3S
TEST BENCH EQUIPMENT
SMD / D'Amore Engineering Amp Dyno: goo.gl/sJTcf7
XS Power D1400 Batteries - amzn.to/2BPFCKW
XS Power PSC60 Charger - amzn.to/2CHGcfs
Fluke 1000A AC/DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2Rw5WDA
Handheld Dyno: amzn.to/2u2EgKV
My Favorite Screwdriver Kit: amzn.to/2x0VzcE
_DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases_
You can scare away raccoons with this. Just relabel it as a pest control device and sell it for 150 on Ebay.
How much decibel ?
You sir are my hero!
Ahhhh…. Separated voice coil. Where every beat is a snare drum.
Hey try the solobaric subwoofers in those boxes !
Worth the price for just the box! Put a decent woofer in there and tune/secure the ports and done.
That’s what I thought
Because it's so small though you could use a 8'' or 6.5'' instead and get a better response
5 for 100!!! Sell all day with a 25.00 kenwood sub 250w...sit at the bus stop sell for 60..make $$$
Good point.
Yup exactly what I was thinking about trying a different woofer but what woofer cause the box is kinda small for a better sub
The cabinet itself may not be that bad of a deal for that price. It would be interesting to see what happens when a real sub is installed and see if it can handle 1000+ watts without blowing the bass ports out or blowing off the Lexan panel.
The box will fall apart, you are lucky if this box survives a 300w sub to be honest 😂 going to need some heavy modifications if you actually want to use it with something properly.
@@Random_4400 Umm...yes...that was the point...
Pyle was not always junk. Back in my time they made (for that time period) great amps, speakers, and subs. The they were bought out along with Lanzar and were turned to the crap we have today. Nothing sadder than that.
Happened to a lot of the companies unfortunately
Pyle was out of Huntington Indiana. They advertised heavily in car audio magazines in the mid 80's
Yep, their old school "Pyle Drivers" (a pun, I think, on the wrestling move - I can't remember the 80s wrestler that did it) were incredible, with huge magnets. They would often go head-to-head against Earthquake, back in the day.
Pyle has always been junk. They just had good advertising.
Their concrete drivers really pounded back in the day.
Did you register them at Pyle? It would be interesting to see if they would honor their warranty seeing as you have documented evidence that they fail well short of their rated power levels. Wouldn't this be part of a review?
I would love to see that. Have never seen any but American and Japanese made stand behind their product.
$20 is worth the box. Put another sub in it. Maybe good for a home audio woofer
Yes keep the box, and then try and find a replacement Sub or a better quality Sub that would fit and sounds good for that size enclosure? [ MTX Blue Thunder, Kenwood Excelon Series Sub, Kicker Comp Sub ]
Yeah if your 10" requires the most bare-bones box.
I bought 2 of these, basically for the enclosures. I thought the subs would hold me over for a few weeks until I could afford to upgrade them. The little Rockville RXD-T2 I also bought on sale from Woot made little work of blowing these things. Now I've got a 10" Rockville K6 V2 on the way. Gonna throw that in one and see how it goes.
Sooooo? How did it go?
I've owned 4 rockville subs and they sound good at first but they rattle like ass next and blow.
@@theunknownandunsolved6963 Not good lol. The K6 was the wrong sub to go with. Even though it's 10" the cast aluminum basket is very beefy and the mount is just too big for these boxes. I bought a new cheap small sealed enclosure and I'm very satisfied with the K6.
@@ryzen397 design a proper box for them and reduce the power.
Everyone hates on Rockville, but I LOVE my Rockville amp, been running it hard for maybe 6 years on a old square kicker. Maybe the quality has dipped in recent years, but mine has been awesome
These aren’t that bad if you only want to run around 100 watts rms to add a small amount of bass and they can reliably do that. Pyle rates them like they do their amps thinking you will pair them up and their 1000 watt amp only outputs maybe 200 watts peak. That 350 watts of power was just shredding it.
I was curious about that. How would it sound with a 150 watt load. Would it be reliable at that power level, etc.
Especially on a continuous tone generator, rather than the kick and bass hits of a pop song, which is how a lot of speakers get rated. They don't need to handle an endless drone tone of 500 watts, only Phil Rudd's kick drum that momentarily gets to 500 watts.
Not surprised you blew them both. 500w is always a joke with companies like that. RMS is probably more around 150w if you are lucky. A soon as I saw it hit 300w, I was thinking it was blown and then the clip light lit up.
Wow! I really thought it would do a little better then that. At $20 that just about covers the price for the wood and carpet 😂 I was hoping you would put in a better woofer that could handle at least 400 watts and push it with out that thin plexiglass.
7:56
If it can be pulled out then another woofer can be installed. It depends what he has on hand. A long extension attached to a drill could be used as well 😉
The question I have is, would you think the enclosure by itself worth $20 dollars . A lot of spots want $100+ just for enclosure. I would rather spend $20 and toss the sun that came with it and put within spec a better sub
i second this. lets do a sub change in this box lol
If you can find a sub that will work properly with those dimensions the box seems to be pretty decent, just a bit small whitch makes finding a driver harder. You'd have to do some modeling with the listed specs of multiple subs before buying a woofer.
20 dollars dollars
I'm I graduated high school in 1993 and ran Pro Pyle 10's in a sealed box, sounded pretty good. Put them in a bandpass box made for 12's (plated over the holes with ¾ MDF and obviously drilled for 10's) hell they were ridiculously loud! Back then they definitely were made a lot better. Powered by a Fosgate 500w dyno'd at 734w, they were always under rated. I still have the amp and it works flawlessly.
A friend of mine has a set of 15” Pyle subs back in the early 90’s. They SLAMMED harder than anything around. As for today🤷🏼♂️. It’s amazing they can make an enclosure with a sub for $20 let alone sell it for $20 and make a profit. Junk or not. They figure for $20 no one’s gonna bitch.
Yes- I had 2- 15's Pro Pyle Subs, I never had any problems with them at all? Until they couldn't fit in my 95 Honda Accord? Had to get some 12's Kicker Solo in a Custom Sealed Small Box.
No kidding ! How is that possible
With shipping ! A large flat rate usps box shipping is 20 dollars
"Pyle Toobz" back in early 90's ! 👍👍
Theyre not making any profit. The 20$ is the clearance price. It was priced at around 100$ originally.
I have 2 pyle power 10 inch subs in my custom built floorstanding speakers in my home. They have been going strong now for like 8 years. Getting daily use of about 30 watts to 100 watts rms.
Proof that Pyle really is a Pile!! 😂😂😂 Great tests D, love to keep them companies honest and keep our money where it belongs!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Then you better say that about every brand, including the big ones like JL, who does a biblical level of lying (selling you a $1k+ W7 that cost $25 to make and is basically the same as any cheap sub, but claims it is "high in technology")
Too bad he didn't get to finish the test..🤣.
@@majicdude88 yeah.... but no.
I'm rocking that dual slug Walmart $100 sub right next to my skar audio evl 12 and I'm using the JL Audio 500/1 monoblock to drive that Walmart sub so I'm not being so easy on it.
Granted.. I have the scar on 1000 watt monoblock but still..... 😬 these results are very sad.
Didn't mention that it's like 3 years old and still flexes like day one?
Can't wait to see how this performs with a better subwoofer! Even for $100 if the box quality is good and is tuned right a subwoofer like a Skar SDR or more SQ Rockford Fosgate R2/P1 would sound amazing for less than $200.
Amazing? No. Better? Yeah I guess. I still think that enclosure size is way too small and trying to tune it lower your just going to end up losing a ton of output
@@chrishernandez2490 That is a good point, but it depends on if you put some polyfill in and what the subwoofer's capable of running in such a small box.
I bought one of their 1k watt 15 inch subs and it lasted about 5 min and it never saw more then 300 watts. I had their pro series 4x6s and 6.5 components in my truck and they sounded pretty good even though I never gave them the 200 watts rms they said they would take . The magnets were 40oz on the 6.5s which was more then the subwoofer had.
Big D thanks for your continued support of car audio, always look forward to your informative videos
Thanks for watching and commenting!
that box is worth 20 bucks even with no speaker
I bought a Harmony Audio 1500@1ohm and wow all thanks to Williston Audio Labs!!! Love these! Keeping those companies humble!
First set of midrange I ever bought was Pyle back in 86, they were decent back then. Box looks like it's worth 20$ if you were in the need. Be nice to see a decent sub put in that like you mentioned.
Pyle used to be an OK USA made speaker........once upon a time.
@@DeadKoby That's kinda what I said.
This is why you break in a new sub! Joking lol. But 20 for just the enclosure isn't bad. Would like to see if it would holdup
Back in about 1992 I had a set of PYLE POUNDERS in 12 inch. Powering them was a a punch 75 they were in a fleamarket prefab posted box. I honestly have to admit they held their ground! In the hatch back of my 1983 Toyota celica. They had huge magnets! The car was stolen and never recovered.
Good to see Pyle hasnt changed. I bought a dual 10" pyle bandpass back in 98 from a pawn shop for my first system. The speaker bottomed out after about a month and just popped. I learned my lesson and got a 15" MTX after that.
First mistake was going to a pawn shop 🤷♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Cool video!!!!
I think if you apply a steep 25Hz highpass filter that sub will last much much longer. This will prevent the woofer running way out of its XMax. i guess this woofer has around 100 - 150 watts rms.
Yup I'd say 125 watts max....On occasion Pyle puts out an honest spec sheet on their speakers. Generally they are lying about everything. RMS watts are 1/4 or less whatever's printed on the speaker or box it came in. Even the weight of the magnet is about 1/2 whatever they state. Frequency response for a 10 will be more like 35hz or higher....IMO the only thing Pyle are good for is to add a little base to a factory sound system. The sub in this vid added to a 10 watts per channel base model sound system would be a nice improvement. For anything else it's pure junk.
@@THX..1138 i remember the mid 90s when Pyle woofers were well known 👍
I recently bought one of their tube style sub/enclosures. I couldn't even tell there was a sub in the trunk, total toilet water. I remember friends having Pyle drivers that thumped back in the day, oh how they have fallen.
No not toilet water huh 😂
Friend of mine used to do car audio competitions back in the 90s. His sponsor hooked him up with a couple Pyle Super Blue 15s. For not being the best subs those things hit hard. He won several competitions with them.
I have a pair of 12 Super Blues 600 watts subs but I believe mine are pyramid and they sound decent for what they are there 8 ohms svc in a sealed box they sound really good to me. I still bump them from time to time when trying amps out that I buy
Right, Pyramid made super blue subs that were really inexpensive and sounded decent although they didn't last long.
I thought the Pyle were Blue Wave, and the old Super Blue were Super Pro brand made by Pyramid. A cousin had the Super Pro Super Blue 15’s and they got surprisingly loud on a few hundred watts. I picked up a pair of those old 90’s Super Pro Super Blue 12’s (the old ones without that jimmy neutron looking logo on the dust cap) many years ago but sadly the cones got trashed during a move. Still have them, but not really worth reconing.
@@GHOSTGHOST-jw1mi I remember super blue subs. I had a pair on a pioneer amp
One of the first ever systems I had was that same box and sub. I swapped it to the Skar IX 12 and put a ply wood 1/2” thick front cover. Had it on a skar lp-750.1 and it actually sounded great.
I actually got one of these. I paid about double what you did. I replaced the sub and did some strategic gluing. I dont think i could get a box this size for that. Great video..
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I appreciate you going above and beyond and testing out its wear-ability as a hat
I picked up 12 8inch pyle power series off Amazon last year for around 22.00 each. Ran it through my audio control dq61 and a planet audio 2500 mono 2ohm. Wired 8 to 1ohm in band pass on a wall.sent about 750 rms. I was surprised on bang for buck 23cuft shared ported box. Didn't blow any of them. You should test those next.
Awesome 👏
Multiple cheap subs with plenty of enclosure volume to breathe and not over powered can do pretty well. Also they can be quite economical at turning amp power into sound. But for getting the LOUDEST car, cramming multiple beefy woofers into the same place will always win.
I ran 4 8” subwoofer set ups back in the late 80’s/ early 90’s and began with Pyle drivers. By the early 90’s they had fallen behind and I moved on to better brands. About 10 years ago I was in need of a pair of subs and I bought a pair of Pyle 8” subs along with a set of nos JL Audio 8”s just to see how Pyle was doing. The Pyles were absolutely horrible. They had a very low distorted output that could’ve come from a flea market woofer. I paid around $50 each but I let my son sell the pair for $20 so no one could feel ripped off. Pyle is just the worst of zombie audio brands now.
I have a Pyle home "sound bar" unit. I love it. The box has split apart a bit. But it puts out decent loud and good sound in Garage environment.
I don't max volume to preserve its life.
Great review as usual! I have to say, considering the cost of building the enclosure, the terminal cup, the port tubes, threaded inserts etc I think I'd buy a couple just to throw in some old school MTX 10" subs I've had laying around. Plus this is a 2nd order bandpass enclosure that with upgrades to the acrylic panel, maybe twice the thickness or a rigid aluminum plate would solve makes me want a couple versus building them from scratch.
It might be interesting to see how it performs with a higher grade sub and a thicker front panel if you have any lying around :).
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground Likewise, I have a couple of Polk Audio 10's in a 2nd order bandpass made by Q-Logic back in the 90's and they perform incredibly well in that setup without driving them to hard. Massive amounts of low bass from it. Sometimes experimentation will reveal surprisingly good results :)
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground Would love to have seen that 😆. Sounds like we're both old school rockers. I still love building and have leaned more towards SQ most of the time but now I'm into SPL a little too. Having a suburban I find there is always a little more to expand the audio system and try new things. Just tried the new Recoil red600 and I'm really liking it driving a single 12" kicker box but then I would never give up on my old Eclipse or Linear Power stuff or the liquid cooled Bazooka amps. Too hard to find the old stuff in good condition anymore.
Hoping to see Derick do a review of one of the old school Bazooka amps with or without cooling. My ba1300 is rated at only 375 watts but I've dyno'd it at 537 at 2 ohms. Really curious to see if he would get similar results.
I personally wouldn’t waste the time nor expense of a thicker acrylic sheet; at the cost of a larger piece of acrylic, or thick aluminum, plus this box, you could build a custom one that is all around better (okay, maybe cost slightly higher, but worth it over trying to upgrade this type). I had a couple 2x12” bandpass boxes years ago with a larger acrylic sheet and same thickness (about 1/4" thick) and they worked fine. Sure there is flex, but making it rigid didn't make a perceivable difference, maybe on an SPL meter you'd see it, or a slight change in response graphs, but not noticeable from normal listening. I remember swapping it out with 3/4” MDF which is pretty rigid thinking it would help, and honestly put the acrylic back on. These are never going to be used with ultra high power subs, rather a few hundred real world watts, so the stock acrylic should be fine for the kind of subs that will make their way into these boxes. I’d be more concerned with the wood panels being glued together well. I had a Pyle PLBP122 bandpass 20+ years ago and had to glue the panels so it didn’t rattle. Other than that $20 is a fair price for just the box, even if it needs a little glue. The 1/4" x 10"x10" acrylic sheet on it cost nearly 20 by itself. Obviously if you wish to upgrade the acrylic, nothing wrong with doing that, I just don't believe it is worth the added cost / effort for very minimal, if any noticeable bass response changes. If you do it, and can do a before and after SPL reading, post back as I'd certainly be curious to know what measurable differences you got. And please don't take offense to my comment, just made me think back playing with these style boxes and my thoughts on the idea.
Also wanted to add. Another cheap box to look for, the old Jensen 2x10” bandpass box with the 4 ports on the top rear if you want a box with thicker acrylic, it 5/16", which makes the one on this Pyle look really thin in comparison. I have a couple of those Jensen boxes still, they pop up cheap from time to time.
@@621ELECTRONICS Valid points to be sure, I was thinking more along the lines of using material already on hand to correct the issue of vibration with this boxes acrylic. I just figure that out looks fairly well constructed other than that for a run of the mill subwoofer maybe in the other of 500 watts or less. Not sure how far they go in box construction but it looks to be on video that it may be ¾" or ⅝ at minimum. Of course the port tubes need securing but again I think for $20 it's not had minus the front acrylic and the subwoofer they stuffed in it. Seems the material would be worth the cost at least.
Of course building from scratch would be better it's more for me anyway a case of could something good be made from this enclosure by itself. Being over the hill and short of time for projects makes a difference for me as well :)
Had two pyle 10’s in my 87 T-bird 5.0 WAY back in the day. Lol. They weren’t half bad back then.
there was a short time between 88-93 when Pyle was decent entry level brand, now they are on par with Kraco. I think the parent company licenses the name out to any company that produces garbage hoping ppl buy it out of nostalgia.
Yep Pyle even made decent entry level guitar amps new Pyle guitar amps I heard sound like shit compared to peavey
I have a similar Jensen 10 inch sub in a very similar band pass box , it has to be 30 years old it was given to me with some other better audio I bought , it actually does good for what it is and still works to this day .I doubt it was 20 bucks new ,and it's that one hit wonder
Back in the mid-80's Pyle made a good product. I bought a truck speaker with 6.5" subs in it. If I wanted too, I could have told folks I had 10's in there. That speaker system hit hard. Pyle sold a few more speakers down the road because of those 6.5 subs. Those things were legit. Wish I still had them
👌😝👍
I remember that too. A buddy of mine had two Pile 12 in his Toyota truck with MBcourt mids and couple Sherwood amps. Remember correctly I think it was a Sherwood 240 and a 180
Im still searching for the chest pounding i had from the pyle 8"
I worked with a guy that had a 64 Chevy 4 door. Everyone hassled him about putting 4 Pyramid subs in the trunk. They were about the same level as Pyle. Though back then those Pyramids actually created a huge level of noise....
I remember back in 2006 buying the pyle driver sub, at the time they were like 80 a piece and hot really hard
Haha good stuff big D!
I also bought this woofer box combo knowing it's weak and it'll blow easy.
I just hooked it up to my factory Radio in the trunk for a little bump
I seriously thought the first one blowing so quick was a fluke..,
Haven't been into car audio since the mid to late 90's. I suppose it's comforting to see Pyle has stayed consistent after all these years.
The question stops being, "Why do people buy this?"
And becomes, "Why does a company even bother making this?"
Good job on the burn in period! Would you take a brand new engine to redline?
How does one assume it wasn’t broken in properly? Just broke, not broke in 🤣
$20 is good for the box considering the price wood👍🏼👍🏼
I still got my Pile box the one from the late 90s with the mid-range tweeters built-in it's behind the seat of a truck those holdup work great even to this day they need to stop selling out their brand for bargain-basement and improve the quality of little bit so it holds up
I like how you have a twenty dollar box on a couple thousand dollar sub and box table.
Ha ha 😜
Sounds like an 80s sci-fi movie flick where the aliens are landing on Earth.
The box is probably worth $20 at least
That was my thoughts
@@wal Throw some cheap Skar drivers in it.
I used to have a pair of pyle pro 12 subs. Pretty much identical to the rockford pro series from the early 90s. The one's made in Indiana were good.
interesting thing is that coil is not burnt up in the slightest, gotta be an adhesive failure. would have sounded like junk thanks to the box, but also would have lasted with the correct adhesive.
Back in day, I did my buds Dodge Neon with cheap Pyle stuff...subs, amp, speakers, etc. The whole legit car audio setup was like $120 lol. It was actually sick af...we grew up in the hood and everyone loved it.
Put a low end 8 in it instead of a 10 with the box being so small may actually sound ok that way
The coil was not even slightly darkened,so it would have probably taken a lot more power for a lot longer,but the adhesive failed,which is kinda weird they would cut costs/make mistakes there
They used Elmer’s school glue for the coil after eating some. Not Pyle but whoever made it 😜
It’s actually kinda sad tbh. I’d much rather pay a little more for a decent quality. The cabinet looks great it just sounds like the electronics are crap. They could easily fix this and rase the price a little for a decent speaker
We use to have our box guy swear up and down pyle audiobahn subs were no joke. But I use to love seeing that guy take cheap subs and make great sounding systems with them. 25 dollar SPL subs in a crazy box he made. Man it was awesome
When I first built my Civic I wanted a cheap set of subs, an amp, and mids and highs with their own amp as well. I bought a set of Pyle 12s, Pyle two way 6.5s and three way 6x9s, and I bought a cheap 1200 watt amp (because Pyle claimed that the 12s were 800 watts each). I bought a sheet of 3/4" MDF and built a 34 hz bandpass box for them. They honestly didn't sound terrible (but that's because my car was a coupe and they were in a proper box). I also bought a supposed "3000 watt" Lanzar amp with all spade connector inputs. I never even installed it. I bought a set of Sundown SA12-D2s and an Orion HCCA 3k watt SPLX amp (which almost caught on fire for whatever reason) and I sold the Pyle 12s, the box, and the Lanzar amp to a kid for $250. He was so excited. He put them in his old Accord and he would swear that they slammed, but that Lanzar 3000 watt amp pushed maybe 100 watts at full gain...lmao
Funny I bought the 12 inch version some 20 years ago looking quite the same build as that . Sounded just like that . The magnet was broken free from the basket out the box. They get slammed around in shipping .you could have most likely re-centered and glued the magnet and re-glued it and it would have probably been fine. For about 10 minutes at low volume .
The speakers are garbage and always have been
To be fair, the voice coil didn't actually burn out the copper wire just wasn't properly bonded on to the former and fell off jamming itself into the magnet gap. Had this been done properly it would have lasted longer and gave better results?
i used the basket from one of these and added a 132oz magnet and a coil from a 12 inch sub and made it actually thump
they have small handled screwdrivers that would make easy work of getting the woofer out. might be a good investment.
Nice video, Thanks! For that price you can't make something like this! Like other people saying put a JL, Polk or something like that in it they can handle this housing, maybe a thicker acryl panel, modding the ports and it plays good I think!
I have 4 6.5 inch subs from Pyle. They do well for what they are
man back in the early 90's I had a really nice pair of Pyle 6x9's, They were actually pretty good performers.
Just by looking at that sub, I wouldn’t put more than 100 watts into it... you messed up by using the power ratings on the box.
I think this would be good for someone who only uses it at low volume; something to fortify their existing home system.
I have a yellow 6.5 inch Pyle subwoofer, it’s done great I did only have it for 2 weeks though. But has a lot of excursion!
The enclosures themselves do not sound Too bad. What I would do if I were, you is open them up? And replace the woofers with something decent. And then close them back up and see what they sound like. With something halfway decent inside. Then redo the test. You might be surprised what it would sound like. With a decent subwoofer inside the cabinet.
The voice coil needs more heat resistant glue and it would work a lot better the voice coil isn’t burnt at all. The glue split.
Ive always used pyle woofers 8 in dual coils, 10 in 30oz mag and 15 in 40oz. They where mounted in 77 and 80 olds cutlass behind the seat non boxed. Never blew them running 300watt Yamaha amp. Gain turned down they had low end hard hit. Just my experience.
I wanted to add they were all paper cones.
Nice boxes, hey I just got a new amp and putting my OLD pyle driver 12s in a classic box. My pyles are like early 90s awesome they been in my 84 cerwin vega house speakers for over 15 years they are USA made. Best woofers I ever had. Most of the China speakers suck. I can't wait to hook it up today....
Just use the box for a home audio subwoofer. Probably sound better than the factory sub that comes with a store bought home theater system.
I still have a Pyle 800 watt 4 channel amp from the 80’s, it works fine for powering full range car speakers. It’s huge though, I don’t actually use it.
A buddy of mine had Pyle blue wave subs back in high school. He never hooked them up because the motor shifted on one from the summer heat lol
I really like these type of videos. Not much videos on woofer tests on RUclips. Would love to see more vids like this😊❤
@WillistonAudioLabs.. fake
Hello! Did you make the US$ 70 enclosure test? I'd like to see your review about those cool looking dual speaker bandpass/acrylic enclosure. I find having the front of the speakers sealed is very awkward 😅. Thanks.
Look at a subs enclosure specs. Some subs do ok in a small box but do better in a bigger box. A lot of people are confused and ask this question.
that Ernest goes to Jail clip tho!!!...I LOVED that movie when i was a kid ..i really want to watch it again
You should get your sub building feet wet and re cone that turd, you can get a cone spider and coil for about $20 be kinda cool to re do that driver and give her another go. Re coming is not only a good thing in general but it's really fun to take a dead woofer and hear it thump again. It's really fun to reconnect a cheap sub that would normally get tossed in the trash. I took a slinkied Polk db12 D4 and popped the top plate off and milled it a bit to accept a 4 layer copper coil it only had a 2 layer coil replaced the poly cone with a pressed paper cone and a new soft spider to keep the FS really low and make it efficient, (that's a JL formula and its hits nice n low sounds really buttery smooth but it limits power handling...does that description sound like a JL? Yeah) and actually bumps pretty good. It would have been tossed but for not much money at all and I have a 350w+ 12" sub that hits really low. With it's low FS It works great in a 2cf ported box as a HT sub and rumbles great on only 250w. I call it the Polk super db.
Hey this sounds like a great idea any pointers on getting some replacement parts for this? I also got a 12w7 that I was going to send back to jl for the $250 rebuild but they stopped doing it just before I blew on me, looking to recone that one too
I bought a Pyle 10in 4 ohm DVC Speaker for $13 bucks, rated at 500W and 1000W peak. I barley had it turn up on a 50W amp, bridged to 2 ohms, and blew immediately ... well it came with a 30 day warranty so I said I'll get a replacement and try again .... Wrong... I get the 2nd one a week later and say, "I'll wire it as 8 ohms more resistant and give it a Lil less power maybe". Well I was able to get a nice little thump for a minute and soon heard crackling SMH Pyle use to be the Shizznit back in the day and thats what made me try it out in the first place...
I once bought a pair of 6 x 9 Pyle blue wave model and they came brand new in the box with no tinsel leads! LOL! Good old JC Whitney!
They were at one time 20 years ago built a bit better. I installed one of these back in the day for my cousin with a 300w Jensen amp it made enough bass to get the mirrors vibrating. Compared to the tiny crappy 4" speakers the car had it was a massive upgrade for her. The new ones are really garbage in comparison to their own product from the 90's.
the old wave* (blue wave etc) subs is exactly what got Pyle their bad name, the Power (PLPW...D) series are actually decent
I have two Pyle Power subs I use in my garage stereo. One is an 8” and the other is a 10”. I don’t dare use them in my truck. The voice coils bottom out at low power. They’re ok for my garage stereo though.
I would love to see what the Rockville VS12K52 12" prefab enclosure package does. It's $109.95, keep making these videos 👍
I love watching people review these cheap subs and how bad half of them are, and I would also love to see another driver in that enclosure.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Cheap Speakers and Subs will sound great at low volume [ 200 watts and lower 🤣🤣🤣 ]? They can't even last during the demo, please people do your homework and research before buying?🤣🤣🤣
The funny part is you did not burn the woofer up, you reached heat over the point the glue they used to put the voicecoil to the former and the VC slipped off. Smell was that glue cause that copper looked mint.
looked like almost no glue
Elmer’s School Glue 😜
The Pyle enclosures are really nice. Can you make a video of more powerful subs to see if those enclosures can produce great bass. Great vid 👍
In the plans!
I know back in the early 90's you could buy a 12" pyramid sub for super cheap and that thing actually hit pretty damn hard and lasted.
The name speaks for itself since the beginning
Definitely lil D wiz now. Amazing transformation!!! Still my favorite RUclips channel and you ain’t been near five guys lately 😂
Must be the camera angle 😜
First subwoofer I had was a 15" Bluewater and boss 1000 watt amp and a custom box my friend and I made. Sounded pretty good!
I have a question.Can a person use these boxes for a Kicker Comp Q 10's would these box's hold up the power of them ? And do you think they would sound good
Lol. I bought a "Mutant" compo, Amp and Sub cheap. It was 12" ported. Within a month it stopped working. When I pulled the Unit out it had vibrated the Magnet off. I made an adapter ring and fitted a 10" "Infinite" sub for about £80 and then the Enclosure didn't sound half bad! 😂✌❤🙏🍻🇬🇧
I remember when PYLE used to make good speakers. They were never the best of the best but were very solid.
i agree Big D, Five guys is brutal.This is not a piece I would buy, but I am glad there is something for every budget...the box alone is easily worth 20 bucks, throw a cheap Rockford in there and it might be a good sub for a beginner
Enjoyed this ! Took me back to late 90s and early 00s I had tons of cheapo bandpass different brands
So the issue is the glue that barely held up coil wire on the former. Usually if the coil is blown, the wire itself turns black due to extreme overheating and only then it falls off, but look here, turns are not even slightly darker than usual. If the manufacturer wouldn't save a couple of cents on the glue, maybe it would hold a bit more power.
What a shame though...
its 150w rms and 500peak that tends to blow when pushing over 200w to a $20 sub I put 2 of these in the grandkids car with 150w mono rockford amp they been going almost 2yrs now i got them for the boxes but the subs are going good I did have to replace the p-glass on one not sure if it broke or he broke it I used 3/8 p-glass and changed both. thanks for sharing
you should put a powerfull 10 inch in there and just plast it til the plexyglass falles off would be fun to see!
😜👍
Hey Big D, Im pretty sure that 500-watts is peak/max, with 200-250-watts being the RMS rating. Good looking box doe!!
Whoa was that a quick peak at an FP there at the end!? Things are about to get funky!! 🐶
What's good bro!! You and I both crawling to the finish line. Thanks a million for that decab. What's up with the truck now?