When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Trend diamond stones: amzn.to/2XomWMi Tools used in this video► Eclipse Coping Saw: amzn.to/2ManCkI Eclipse Fret (deep throat) Saw: amzn.to/32aGeqo Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs.com/subscribe.html
You are the first person to have taken the time to tell me how to correctly use an unfamiliar tool that I reach for as an absolute last resort. I’m very grateful. Thank you, James.
A coping saw was the first saw I was taught to use as a child. I was probably 3 or 4 when my dad put one in my hands and soon, just about every 3/4” piece of wood in his shop had wavy ends all over it. I swear he probably had so much material loss due to that. Exposure to that at such a young age probably helped build my love of the scroll saw.
It is incredible how much I don't know or understand, especially with the simple stuff. Thanks for trying to edgeumacate me. I know it is a daunting task, but I do appreciate all the info you share in a friendly and comprehensible way.
Thanks Stumpy, for the informative video on Coping Saws, I broke my only blade while working on a project and I was clueless as to how to measure a coping blade and choosing a replacement, your video did helped me immensely on how to measure and understand how to use it. I do appreciate your well explained instructional videos, top best. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Thank you!
Great basic information. It is easy to assume that use of a coping saw is self-apparent, and then end up wondering why you are having so much trouble. What an epiphany to realize that you need instruction. This video is clear and easy to understand. Much appreciated!
Thanks man! Inherited my never present Dad's shop, he trained in carpentry throughout college, but he didn't much like me either, nor liked spending time with me beyond hunting when we each had a pointer. Anywho, he passed close to a decade ago, left me a nightmarish disaster of a shop, which I'd actually cleaned out and organized while on break from college years prior, and l was so pissed off being on the firsr few years of starting my own biz I just locked it up and thanked thr gods I had my own shop, tools, always put away neatly in the exact same spot. Anger fades, and I've begun to plumb the treasures out of his shop holding +30 years of tools, with a special interest in the older, manual, usually wood handled carpentry tools. They were rusty and decrepit looking, but also quality built stuff from the 60s-70s. Restoring all them that I can tell just need to be cleaned, sanded, relaquored or polished, and it's simply amazing how great and fully intact/usable all are them. I surely remember using a coping saw years ago for some high detail curving cuts in thin wood, never knew its precise name and thought of it as some specialty hack saw lol, and I'm going to guess had a good experience because my dad had already adjusted the blade for a lefty, which we are both. I'm a Master Grower/Hydroponic Farmer by trade, detest throwing away any tool, and during a quasi-recent foray cleaning up my inherited shop I found a pair of ancient (probably 70s/early 80s lol) scissors, asked my mom if she'd like them after I got them sharpened, but she declined. Trimming plants, I if course take a special interest keeping them razor sharp, and while sharpening them I noticed they were not only high quality Japanese steel, but even more unbelievable, were left handed too (I know Japanese, like Westerners had historically negative nonsense beliefs about lefties too, which were definitely still a thing late 70s, which makes these scissors even more mysterious lol). Once I got them sharpened they cut just as I'd imagined, and unlike newer scissors, even the steel seems harder, leaves just the tiniest amount of burrs after sharpening. So, of course the plastic handles started crumbling a few months ago. But I've found a nice little 10 step handle build utilizing a few pieces of plywood, guy used pine but I'm thinking might as well use something harder/nicer, then low and behold, I see the handy little coping saw in Step 3, and finally know that's the name of that saw, which I just happened to see in my inherited shop a couple of weeks ago! Unlike my dad, as I stated, I keep my workspaces highly organized, hate jumping into jobs half cocked, no prep like he did so often, so I hopped on RUclips to search up the coping saw because my project requires mine removing the saw blade twice, then reattaching when I cut out the inner hole on my three layered handle. I'm sure it'll become quite clear now, having watched you, that I'll want to tilt the blade 20°-30°, but the opposite direction when I do, being left handed. Thanks for the intro again, I absolutely subscribed, and I'm positive I'll be checking out your page in the near future because I don't hire help, I learn how to do or repair anything around the home or greenhouse unless it's way way way out of my league. I say good day sir, and that shop looks magnificent, may I one day have half of my carpentry specific area in my shop so well equipped!
I’ve been a woodworker for over 40 years but have never used a coping saw! I recently bought one for one of my young grandsons and he’ll need some instruction in its use…I appreciate your instruction in the use of this tool. As always you are the best teacher in woodworking I’ve found. 👍🏻
To steer the saw make sure to use full strokes. The closer to the end of the blade the more the frame can keep the blade from twisting away from the angle the frame is set at. Just using the middle of the blade allows the back of the blade to steer the cut. Not bad in a straight cut but a mess when trying to follow a curved line. For very tricky cuts I like to place the work flat on the bench with the cut hanging over the edge and run the saw vertical with the teeth pointed towards the handle and the handle below the work. Gravity will help to keep the cut square and also reduces the tendency to push the cut and deform the blade. Just steer the saw and let gravity do the cutting. It also eliminates having to fight the weight of the frame. I will only use a pinch grip between my thumb and first finger with the stroke being a flick of the wrist and not a full arm movement. kind of like striking a match.
Hockey tape! Been a long time since I've heard that term. I love it! Thanks for the great tip. I've struggled using one in the past. I'll have to use mine again now.
so many times, the problem is not even the tool, but the clamping. using coping saws without a bench vise is such a pain. many people see paul sellers doing great with one of these, but forget that he is holding the wood in a solid bench with a massive 40 pounds eclipse vise. trying to do the same with clamps and a plywood bench is so frustrating.
Thank you for this video. Been trying to use my new coping saw and had nothing but frustration. I wanted to just throw it away and admit defeat lol. You taught me I was using it all wrong. My projects now are much easier to work on. Thank you!
As someone with pretty much no woodworking experience, thank you for sharing your knowledge! You explained things in a way that's very easy to understand, and I appreciate the "tips and tricks" (like turning the blade at an angle), because I never would have thought of that in a million years. Keep up the great work!
The only advice I could add to this video: If your having trouble using a Keyhole saw, then you need to lower your expectations and the pressure on the blade. A coping saw was not designed to cut thru a 12" pc. of lumber in 3.269 seconds flat. It was designed for very exacting work. Slow down and let the blade do the work, even if you have to change the position of the blade to the body of the saw. But quit thinking everything has a time limit or a schedule. It will take you longer to do it over, than it takes to do it right the first time!
There *IS* a difference between push and pull. When you push, you are going up against only the tension in the blade, from the tension in the frame. If the compression between handle / work exceeds the frame tension between work / tip, the blade will slacken and may break. On the pull stroke, you can create much higher tension - all the way up until the steel snaps. This is why Japanese pull saws can be so much thinner than western push saws.
I've liked using coping saws because my hands are small and I don't have the strength in my arm that I once did. I have had a few problems, but this video answered most of my questions. Thanks!
@@StumpyNubsThanks for rapid reply.... I tried to post a snip of what is on my screen but it didn't let me. I don't see any bell next to the SUBSCRIBE button.. Still.. i'll click thumbs up regardless
Double entendre aside, this is actually advice that can be used in many different activities. Riding motorcycles, you’re told to flap your elbows like a butterfly in order to loosen and relax your grip on the bars. Playing piano is the same way, if you’re tensed up, your music will reflect that. Painting, long smooth strokes keep the streaks away. When you masturba......oh sorry.
Well that explains a lot! I have had trouble in the past a using coping saw and now I understand the mistakes I have been making. Thanks for sharing this. I learned a great deal watching it.
Thanks; useful tips for an annoying tool. I haven't used one for a long time, but I did add an extra little piece of wood to the side of the handle on my last one, so I could hold my thumb against it. I found that really helped to get a feel for the angle I was cutting at (I'd stuck it at probably around 30° so it was most often in line with the angle of the blade).
This is one saw I have never owned but always wanted. Now, thanks to you, I want to get one and I now have the confidence I can use one properly. Thank you.
I am like you, I like the pull stroke better than the push stroke when using a coping saw. I am hoping that if and when you have an open house at your new work shop, I am up at my other house in Ithaca when it happens.
The first saw that I needed (that I could not find in my dad's tools) was a coping saw. I can say with no regrets that the years spent trying to make good cuts with my coping saw were the biggest influence on my CNC purchase. I have not had to use the coping saw since that time!
Great video. you just saved me $100. I have a coping saw and was getting frustrated having way more trouble and I thought a bench top electric was the answer. now I know that it is possible to use the saw accurately and easily. I recently got a portable electric saw from Amazon on Prime days. It was at least 50% off regular price. it is a Worx WX572L 5.5 Amp BladeRunne. I got it because it is supposed to cut steel easily and I am making knives from 1095 bar stock. Do you have any videos on that kind of tool?
Thank you,I just bought the 11" Eclipse "frett" saw and spent the last 10minutes trying to figure out how my 6" coping saw blade would fit W/the pinned end,I would have spent another 20 minutes on Google figuring it out.. thank you again
I wish I saw this video when I was trying to copy my corners for baseboards. My blade was always getting stuck so I just figured I suck. I realize now there was so much more to it!
Nice video. I set up my scroll saws for a pull cut, but not for the reason many people think, but because I cut 'upside down' with my hand on the bottom side of whatever I'm cutting. That way I can see my cut line perfectly without having my hand in in the way. It also seems to provide a cleaner cut on the top surface
"Theoretically" is incorrect-the coping saw was never designed to cut on the push, it's the same as pushing string You should also place your stock flat on the bench with the handle below and cut on the down (pull) stroke- you'll be able to see and follow your line much easier. You'll also break far fewer blades
Good info. I really like your pointer, and due to a previous vid, and a few suggestions from you, I now have a few of those! They are really good mech pencils!
Hi guys, anyone know how to fix a vintage coping saw that doesnt tension enough to cut. I bought a miller falls coping saw that feels great weight and handle wise but have noticed it doesnt not tighten enough as my other coping saws...
Coping saws were and still are designed to cut on the pull stroke, teeth pointing towards the handle Trying to cut on the push stroke is like pushing string You should also be cutting in a vertical position, cutting on the down stroke
Never thought about the tip that the blade should be set at an angle, that explains a lot of my issues with running out of room to cut after cutting in like 1 inch.
Off subject question... you have your chisels against magnets. Ive thought about doing the same but was scared of them becoming magnetised and then the filing sticking during sharpening. Any issues with that?
How do you find fret saw blades (the super thin blades, thinner than coping saw blades, like he shows at the very end)? I've been searching online for months and "fret saw" always brings the thicker coping saw blades. I've also tried "scroll saw" and it also brings up the thicker coping saw blades at Amazon, Ebay, etc.
Look for 'jeweler's saw blades', they are essentially the same thing, just negligible 'set' in the teeth. Also used for sawing bone and shell for jewellery - depending on how good the supplier is they may offer blades with a tiny amount more set.
Nice job Mr Knobbs, Hmmm(Sorry ) NUBS,have a couple of different breeds but still do the same job,Did just buy a jewelers saw,much easier to reverse cut than push cut with these,did break a lot of blade pushing seem not to break as many pulling,,, With these saw they use strange numbers to tell you what they are,now a vid on that would be interesting,, But thank you and your channel for great content,, much appreciated
Hello. When I see you have a video on the topic I'm searching for, I feel happy since I know I'll get good, practical information. So thanks a lot. I've got a question for you. Do you have any suggestion regarding lubricants for coping saw blades? It would be great to be able to use household materials as lubricants.
Was so so helpful, I checked your Instagram too but, unfortunately saw your shop accident too. That happened oct 2019. May you stay safe from now and forever. Blessings 🙏
I have both kinds of coping saws. The 6.5” and the shorter scroll saw bladed one. They both came with 12 blades, 24tpi! OMG slow. And in hard woods, it took 6 years to cut a 1/4 inch (I exaggerate). I got some 12tpi blades. Much better. I find the scroll saw blades to very easy to turn, but they also drift way more. The coping saw blades drift a lot less, but don’t turn as easily. In the end, after breaking blades, bending blades, burning the cut, and generally going half mad, I learned exactly what you said. Let the saw do its own work. Take your time. Watch both sides of the cut. Thanks for sharing.
I enjoyed the suggestion to add hockey tape to the handle. Being a life long Floridian, I got my tape from Rob Cosman. Many tools purchased from him already have the handles wrapped.
Stumpy, Have you ever boogered up your diamond stones? I've gotten some kind of something stuck in mine, almost like galling on a file, now any time I use them I get big scratches in whatever I'm trying to sharpen. I've tried using rubber eraser and a few other tricks but I'm down to thinking I've got to get a sonic parts cleaner to get it out and back to new. Any thoughts?
I only recently discovered that I was sawing things incorrectly my whole life. I had only used standard saws for trimming tree limbs. I'd grown to absolutely hate hand sawing. I would push as hard as I could and go as fast as I can. Then I discovered a moderate quality dovetail saw sitting next to a miter box in my father in law's old tool pile. I started cutting the same way, as hard as I could and as fast as I can on the miter box. Eventually I became exhausted and just started moving my arm back and forth at a moderate pace and with no downward pressure other than what was provided by the weight of the saw. I immediate noticed that this worked much better. ding ding ding! It took me a while to train myself out of the hard and fast since it was so built into my muscle memory, but once I did I discovered that hand sawing ain't all that bad, and is even enjoyable.
Great discussion of the coping saw, which has remained somehow baffling to me. Always wanted to understand itys mysteries. Many thanks for the down-to-earth tips.
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During these difficult times, thanks for helping us cope
Nice
coping can be a very important thing.
Of course, especially with the use of a 'Coping-saw'😊
Lol
I see what you did there 👍
America's shop instructor! Thank you for another "I didn't know that..." lesson.
You are the first person to have taken the time to tell me how to correctly use an unfamiliar tool that I reach for as an absolute last resort. I’m very grateful. Thank you, James.
Very helpful overview for someone unsure exactly what people mean when others say 'fret saw'. Thanks!
Grate video . We never get to old to see new ideas . 💡
A little trick I've found over the years is to put a little wax on the blade. Makes it easier to control in curves, and prevents binding.
That’s a cool idea! You think paste wax would work or does it get too dry to work the same?
@@codyjohnson7841 I've always used paraffin, but I'll bet paste wax would work just as well. Never thought of that!
I wax just about every surface that runs against material, makes a huge difference for planes and saws.
@@romeotango5597 Exactly. It only makes sense. Also makes the blades stay sharp longer, or so it seems.
@@romeotango5597 Same except for my wooden planes, find I don't really need it on them.
A coping saw was the first saw I was taught to use as a child. I was probably 3 or 4 when my dad put one in my hands and soon, just about every 3/4” piece of wood in his shop had wavy ends all over it. I swear he probably had so much material loss due to that. Exposure to that at such a young age probably helped build my love of the scroll saw.
Was a scroll saw easier than a coping saw?
It is incredible how much I don't know or understand, especially with the simple stuff. Thanks for trying to edgeumacate me. I know it is a daunting task, but I do appreciate all the info you share in a friendly and comprehensible way.
Thanks Stumpy, for the informative video on Coping Saws, I broke my only blade while working on a project and I was clueless as to how to measure a coping blade and choosing a replacement, your video did helped me immensely on how to measure and understand how to use it.
I do appreciate your well explained instructional videos, top best. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thank you!
Great basic information. It is easy to assume that use of a coping saw is self-apparent, and then end up wondering why you are having so much trouble. What an epiphany to realize that you need instruction. This video is clear and easy to understand. Much appreciated!
Thanks man! Inherited my never present Dad's shop, he trained in carpentry throughout college, but he didn't much like me either, nor liked spending time with me beyond hunting when we each had a pointer.
Anywho, he passed close to a decade ago, left me a nightmarish disaster of a shop, which I'd actually cleaned out and organized while on break from college years prior, and l was so pissed off being on the firsr few years of starting my own biz I just locked it up and thanked thr gods I had my own shop, tools, always put away neatly in the exact same spot. Anger fades, and I've begun to plumb the treasures out of his shop holding +30 years of tools, with a special interest in the older, manual, usually wood handled carpentry tools. They were rusty and decrepit looking, but also quality built stuff from the 60s-70s. Restoring all them that I can tell just need to be cleaned, sanded, relaquored or polished, and it's simply amazing how great and fully intact/usable all are them.
I surely remember using a coping saw years ago for some high detail curving cuts in thin wood, never knew its precise name and thought of it as some specialty hack saw lol, and I'm going to guess had a good experience because my dad had already adjusted the blade for a lefty, which we are both.
I'm a Master Grower/Hydroponic Farmer by trade, detest throwing away any tool, and during a quasi-recent foray cleaning up my inherited shop I found a pair of ancient (probably 70s/early 80s lol) scissors, asked my mom if she'd like them after I got them sharpened, but she declined. Trimming plants, I if course take a special interest keeping them razor sharp, and while sharpening them I noticed they were not only high quality Japanese steel, but even more unbelievable, were left handed too (I know Japanese, like Westerners had historically negative nonsense beliefs about lefties too, which were definitely still a thing late 70s, which makes these scissors even more mysterious lol). Once I got them sharpened they cut just as I'd imagined, and unlike newer scissors, even the steel seems harder, leaves just the tiniest amount of burrs after sharpening. So, of course the plastic handles started crumbling a few months ago. But I've found a nice little 10 step handle build utilizing a few pieces of plywood, guy used pine but I'm thinking might as well use something harder/nicer, then low and behold, I see the handy little coping saw in Step 3, and finally know that's the name of that saw, which I just happened to see in my inherited shop a couple of weeks ago!
Unlike my dad, as I stated, I keep my workspaces highly organized, hate jumping into jobs half cocked, no prep like he did so often, so I hopped on RUclips to search up the coping saw because my project requires mine removing the saw blade twice, then reattaching when I cut out the inner hole on my three layered handle. I'm sure it'll become quite clear now, having watched you, that I'll want to tilt the blade 20°-30°, but the opposite direction when I do, being left handed. Thanks for the intro again, I absolutely subscribed, and I'm positive I'll be checking out your page in the near future because I don't hire help, I learn how to do or repair anything around the home or greenhouse unless it's way way way out of my league. I say good day sir, and that shop looks magnificent, may I one day have half of my carpentry specific area in my shop so well equipped!
I’ve been a woodworker for over 40 years but have never used a coping saw! I recently bought one for one of my young grandsons and he’ll need some instruction in its use…I appreciate your instruction in the use of this tool. As always you are the best teacher in woodworking I’ve found. 👍🏻
To steer the saw make sure to use full strokes. The closer to the end of the blade the more the frame can keep the blade from twisting away from the angle the frame is set at. Just using the middle of the blade allows the back of the blade to steer the cut. Not bad in a straight cut but a mess when trying to follow a curved line. For very tricky cuts I like to place the work flat on the bench with the cut hanging over the edge and run the saw vertical with the teeth pointed towards the handle and the handle below the work. Gravity will help to keep the cut square and also reduces the tendency to push the cut and deform the blade. Just steer the saw and let gravity do the cutting. It also eliminates having to fight the weight of the frame. I will only use a pinch grip between my thumb and first finger with the stroke being a flick of the wrist and not a full arm movement. kind of like striking a match.
Hockey tape! Been a long time since I've heard that term. I love it! Thanks for the great tip. I've struggled using one in the past. I'll have to use mine again now.
Learned I was doing at least three things wrong. Talk about educational. Great lecture, thanks.
Thanks. This was very helpful. And, your koozie made me smile and think of home. Let's go Red Wings! We want the Cup!
so many times, the problem is not even the tool, but the clamping.
using coping saws without a bench vise is such a pain. many people see paul sellers doing great with one of these, but forget that he is holding the wood in a solid bench with a massive 40 pounds eclipse vise. trying to do the same with clamps and a plywood bench is so frustrating.
I always like your videos. Simply? I love them. So GOD bless you greatman
This is really helpful; the tension of the blade, blade direction and cutting strokes especially. Thank you for sharing this.
Thanks. You answered and helped me with problems I have been having. Thanks again.
This is a good video. You're a good presenter. Thanks. (Subscribed.)
Thanks
Good video, thanks
Thanks for the explanation.
Nice video 👍
Thank you for this video. Been trying to use my new coping saw and had nothing but frustration. I wanted to just throw it away and admit defeat lol. You taught me I was using it all wrong. My projects now are much easier to work on. Thank you!
As someone with pretty much no woodworking experience, thank you for sharing your knowledge!
You explained things in a way that's very easy to understand, and I appreciate the "tips and tricks" (like turning the blade at an angle), because I never would have thought of that in a million years.
Keep up the great work!
Could you please explain to me the difference between a coping, scroll and a fret saw? Please
The only advice I could add to this video: If your having trouble using a Keyhole saw, then you need to lower your expectations and the pressure on the blade. A coping saw was not designed to cut thru a 12" pc. of lumber in 3.269 seconds flat. It was designed for very exacting work. Slow down and let the blade do the work, even if you have to change the position of the blade to the body of the saw. But quit thinking everything has a time limit or a schedule. It will take you longer to do it over, than it takes to do it right the first time!
Great info.
There *IS* a difference between push and pull. When you push, you are going up against only the tension in the blade, from the tension in the frame. If the compression between handle / work exceeds the frame tension between work / tip, the blade will slacken and may break. On the pull stroke, you can create much higher tension - all the way up until the steel snaps. This is why Japanese pull saws can be so much thinner than western push saws.
I've liked using coping saws because my hands are small and I don't have the strength in my arm that I once did. I have had a few problems, but this video answered most of my questions. Thanks!
Great information well delivered and NO MUSIC... :) BUT.. where is this damn bell..? I want to ring it but...
Below the video next to the subscribe button
@@StumpyNubsThanks for rapid reply.... I tried to post a snip of what is on my screen but it didn't let me. I don't see any bell next to the SUBSCRIBE button.. Still.. i'll click thumbs up regardless
"Relax, loosen you arm muscles and use long smooth strokes..." - words to live by!
Double entendre aside, this is actually advice that can be used in many different activities. Riding motorcycles, you’re told to flap your elbows like a butterfly in order to loosen and relax your grip on the bars. Playing piano is the same way, if you’re tensed up, your music will reflect that. Painting, long smooth strokes keep the streaks away. When you masturba......oh sorry.
Use both hands, close your eyes...twins!
@@Chef_PC 🤣🤣
I like to push to keep my splintering on the backside, I usually cope crown molding, I use my coping saw more than most trim Carpenters
nice
Thanks for all your tips and making great videos! Whoever hit a thumbs down😂... id like to see your tips or video about woodwork😉
Great info! I find dulling the first 1/2" of teeth or so on the blade helps me get the saw started in my work piece.
Well that explains a lot! I have had trouble in the past a using coping saw and now I understand the mistakes I have been making. Thanks for sharing this. I learned a great deal watching it.
Subbed rang and thank you look forward to going through all your videos
Thanks; useful tips for an annoying tool. I haven't used one for a long time, but I did add an extra little piece of wood to the side of the handle on my last one, so I could hold my thumb against it. I found that really helped to get a feel for the angle I was cutting at (I'd stuck it at probably around 30° so it was most often in line with the angle of the blade).
This is one saw I have never owned but always wanted. Now, thanks to you, I want to get one and I now have the confidence I can use one properly. Thank you.
I am like you, I like the pull stroke better than the push stroke when using a coping saw. I am hoping that if and when you have an open house at your new work shop, I am up at my other house in Ithaca when it happens.
Another very good video. If I wasn't already subscribed . . . I would subscribe on the basis of this single video. Thank you.
The first saw that I needed (that I could not find in my dad's tools) was a coping saw. I can say with no regrets that the years spent trying to make good cuts with my coping saw were the biggest influence on my CNC purchase. I have not had to use the coping saw since that time!
Big cope is not happy with your comment…
@@jbratt Big Cope is the secret investor in CNC manufacturers, and pays half of their TV advertising in the USA.
Just wonderfully explained and demonstrated, thanks
I’m trying scribe cut base boards but my blade keeps twisting. Any thoughts?
Cheers
Good advise guess I'll try some of it. Thanks always enjoy your videos.
Great video. you just saved me $100. I have a coping saw and was getting frustrated having way more trouble and I thought a bench top electric was the answer. now I know that it is possible to use the saw accurately and easily. I recently got a portable electric saw from Amazon on Prime days. It was at least 50% off regular price. it is a Worx WX572L 5.5 Amp BladeRunne. I got it because it is supposed to cut steel easily and I am making knives from 1095 bar stock. Do you have any videos on that kind of tool?
Thank you,I just bought the 11" Eclipse "frett" saw and spent the last 10minutes trying to figure out how my 6" coping saw blade would fit W/the pinned end,I would have spent another 20 minutes on Google figuring it out.. thank you again
I wish I saw this video when I was trying to copy my corners for baseboards. My blade was always getting stuck so I just figured I suck. I realize now there was so much more to it!
Great tutorial James ! Good refresher too ;-). Thanks for sharing with us.
Super helpful. This is exactly what I needed to know. Thx
Yooooooo I wanna try using this too to make pendants using coconut shells which blade is preferable?
Nice video. I set up my scroll saws for a pull cut, but not for the reason many people think, but because I cut 'upside down' with my hand on the bottom side of whatever I'm cutting. That way I can see my cut line perfectly without having my hand in in the way. It also seems to provide a cleaner cut on the top surface
Love your videos. I saw a coping saw review and one of the cons was that the handle is not flexible. What does that mean? Thank you.
"Theoretically" is incorrect-the coping saw was never designed to cut on the push, it's the same as pushing string
You should also place your stock flat on the bench with the handle below and cut on the down (pull) stroke- you'll be able to see and follow your line much easier. You'll also break far fewer blades
Good info. I really like your pointer, and due to a previous vid, and a few suggestions from you, I now have a few of those! They are really good mech pencils!
Coping saws you have to cope with, fret saws make you fret, 🤔🤣😎
Been fretting and coping from a very early age 😇
what did the woodworker say to the psychiatrist?
I don't know what is wrong with me doc. I just can't cope.
Thanks for this video, very helpful!
Hi guys, anyone know how to fix a vintage coping saw that doesnt tension enough to cut. I bought a miller falls coping saw that feels great weight and handle wise but have noticed it doesnt not tighten enough as my other coping saws...
Coping saws were and still are designed to cut on the pull stroke, teeth pointing towards the handle
Trying to cut on the push stroke is like pushing string
You should also be cutting in a vertical position, cutting on the down stroke
JUST A SHORT HI.. NOW THAT MY CLASS IS DOING WOODSHOP FROM A COMPUTER. DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEAS FOR ME, CC WOODSHOP MIDDLE SCHOOL
I seem to have the biggest problem with starting the cut.
Can you grind off the first inch or so (of teeth) to help with that?
Cutting on the pull stroke always.!
Love the cam holder. Go Red Wings!!
Never thought about the tip that the blade should be set at an angle, that explains a lot of my issues with running out of room to cut after cutting in like 1 inch.
Your site has integrity more than preference. Thank you.
Aww, you had chance to make your vid title a pun. Good vid though, thanks for sharing.
"Coping with blade wonder"
Or
"Don't fret, it just takes practice"
Thomas Russell - Yup!
Alan at Yorkshire thanks never done it before hope to do it right now
Thanks for the tips. I've never liked the saws because they never seem to cut straight. This should help the next time I use one.
As with any tool, especially detail tools, practice will improve the tool's use and performance.
Thanks for all your advise, appreciate it very much Stumpy.
Thanks man. Very informative.
Thanks for this informative video!
Solved one long term question - thanks.
Off subject question... you have your chisels against magnets. Ive thought about doing the same but was scared of them becoming magnetised and then the filing sticking during sharpening. Any issues with that?
Which blade is better....wire or flat?
Really clear and help video. Thanks.
Which way do the teeth go for either a push or pull setup?
Great video. Thank you!
Can you do one about scroll saws please
We have a whole series about scroll saws on our RUclips channel. Look for the "Mustache Mike" videos.
You need a “ knew concepts “” coping saw, they are the best , period. Completely different level of quality and function.
How do you find fret saw blades (the super thin blades, thinner than coping saw blades, like he shows at the very end)? I've been searching online for months and "fret saw" always brings the thicker coping saw blades. I've also tried "scroll saw" and it also brings up the thicker coping saw blades at Amazon, Ebay, etc.
@@KipdoesStuff I bought some "scroll saw" blades. (I have a scroll saw) They were still not that thin.
Look for 'jeweler's saw blades', they are essentially the same thing, just negligible 'set' in the teeth. Also used for sawing bone and shell for jewellery - depending on how good the supplier is they may offer blades with a tiny amount more set.
I can finally cope thanks to you.
Nice job Mr Knobbs, Hmmm(Sorry ) NUBS,have a couple of different breeds but still do the same job,Did just buy a jewelers saw,much easier to reverse cut than push cut with these,did break a lot of blade pushing seem not to break as many pulling,,,
With these saw they use strange numbers to tell you what they are,now a vid on that would be interesting,,
But thank you and your channel for great content,,
much appreciated
Hello. When I see you have a video on the topic I'm searching for, I feel happy since I know I'll get good, practical information. So thanks a lot. I've got a question for you. Do you have any suggestion regarding lubricants for coping saw blades? It would be great to be able to use household materials as lubricants.
Was so so helpful, I checked your Instagram too but, unfortunately saw your shop accident too. That happened oct 2019. May you stay safe from now and forever. Blessings 🙏
I have both kinds of coping saws. The 6.5” and the shorter scroll saw bladed one. They both came with 12 blades, 24tpi! OMG slow. And in hard woods, it took 6 years to cut a 1/4 inch (I exaggerate). I got some 12tpi blades. Much better. I find the scroll saw blades to very easy to turn, but they also drift way more. The coping saw blades drift a lot less, but don’t turn as easily. In the end, after breaking blades, bending blades, burning the cut, and generally going half mad, I learned exactly what you said. Let the saw do its own work. Take your time. Watch both sides of the cut. Thanks for sharing.
I enjoyed the suggestion to add hockey tape to the handle. Being a life long Floridian, I got my tape from Rob Cosman. Many tools purchased from him already have the handles wrapped.
Don't have or immediately need a coping saw...but this video prepares me. Thanks!
Stumpy, Have you ever boogered up your diamond stones? I've gotten some kind of something stuck in mine, almost like galling on a file, now any time I use them I get big scratches in whatever I'm trying to sharpen. I've tried using rubber eraser and a few other tricks but I'm down to thinking I've got to get a sonic parts cleaner to get it out and back to new. Any thoughts?
I've never boogered them beyond what an eraser would remove. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
I only recently discovered that I was sawing things incorrectly my whole life. I had only used standard saws for trimming tree limbs. I'd grown to absolutely hate hand sawing. I would push as hard as I could and go as fast as I can. Then I discovered a moderate quality dovetail saw sitting next to a miter box in my father in law's old tool pile. I started cutting the same way, as hard as I could and as fast as I can on the miter box. Eventually I became exhausted and just started moving my arm back and forth at a moderate pace and with no downward pressure other than what was provided by the weight of the saw. I immediate noticed that this worked much better. ding ding ding! It took me a while to train myself out of the hard and fast since it was so built into my muscle memory, but once I did I discovered that hand sawing ain't all that bad, and is even enjoyable.
I get so frustrated with my coping saw, I bought a lovely little Delta Scroll saw.... Heaven! GBA!
Mate this video was fantastic!
Heck, until the blade close-up, I had been conflating coping saws and scroll saws in my mind.
Great 👍 Easy to understand.
Thanks for making this video. I have been looking for a way to get my students to stop breaking blades. This will be a big help.
Great discussion of the coping saw, which has remained somehow baffling to me. Always wanted to understand itys mysteries. Many thanks for the down-to-earth tips.