Matt, you probably dont read this, but I watch woodworking youtube videos more than anyone else I know...hours and hours daily..I work a job that allows me to do such. So I have seen every single youtuber that does woodworking, all the big names and more smaller names than I can count...and BY FAR...I learn the most from you..thank you
I feel the same way. Matt is my go-to guy. And, at 73, I really like seeing young people like Matt mastering a trade, in this case, woodworking. I am spending time in my small, basement shop learning to cut dovetails. I sharpen my chisels like Matt recommends with great success, pare and chop they way he teaches and now have learned how to use my fret saw properly. My own creations still look like hobo's teeth but see improvement as I practice, learning from my mistakes. I cut them off my practice blanks and start over. Have accumulated a lot of cutoffs which are good for kindling fires in my wood stove. We never get too old to learn.
Yep definitely the long strokes apparently way better than the old five fingered vinegar stroke!. And don't forget the advice from Amanda Harper....take your time and your definitely going to be enjoying the process way more than just a quick rush and over and done with!!!. 😂🤪😜 sorry but I just couldn't help myself with these comments 😅 😂 🤣.
Only 4 minutes in and this was already easily the clearest, most concise and most useful info I have found so far on coping saws or fretsaws. Great content because useful!
Right!? Even the little things like: If your fret saw blade is thicker than your saw blade it'll be harder to do the job, so check that it's thinner. Or: If you're cutting a 5cm thick piece use a blade with fewer teeth so they don't clog up, and for a 3mm thin piece use one with lots of teeth to avoid tear out. Makes perfect sense, but always so helpful to hear it repeated!
And the advice on frame geometry, a frame with a more square geometry will allow greater tension and help reduce breakages. I wouldn't have thought about it, I would've just assumed that the marketing department forced the engineers to make one model look cooler
The first half of the ruclips.net/user/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
I’m new to woodworking and I’ve done some stupid things as I’ve developed. Most recently, that would be not knowing that you OBVIOUSLY, when you glue up a table top it rests upside down in a flat surface. Anyway, I’ve watched videos across woodTube that approach their topic with an assumption that the viewer has base knowledge. When you don’t, the steps they skip can range from slightly confusing to downright dangerous. After projecting a 2x4 fully across my garage because I wasn’t aware of the whole “don’t put anything between the fence and router bit” thing, I decided to do deeper dives. Matt is EXACTLY WHAT I NEED. Every subject is clear, detailed, and the tips are helpful. Unlike the many “if you want better work just use this $1000 machine to do it for you, it’s way easier” DIY videos, I actually learn from this channel. Thanks for what you’re doing. If I had any typos, I apologize, I’m just getting used to swipe texting to prepare for my inevitable future of doing small tasks without the use of all my fingers.
I have to echo what others have said Matt. One of, if not the best vid on this subject. So many very pertinent points and helpful tips. It’s one saw I do struggle with. Thanks for sharing.
Matt is such a good teacher. I’ve just started in wood working and couldn’t ask for a better teacher. So lucky that Matt is sharing this knowledge. Thank you.
Matt you are a gifted instructor!! Your curriculum and delivery invites people to learn about tools and become better by practice, focus and feel, is so refreshing. I taught ~5yrs private post secondary (Drafting, CAD & Electronics) and found sometimes, inviting people how to learn is sometimes far greater than the lesson itself. I so enjoy this series and pick up a lot of good techniques to practice myself. Thank You Much for raising the caliber of craftsmanship in the community!
As a lecturer we are told to teach the students to cut on the pull to keep tension...(which I personally don't agree with) as a cabinet maker of many many years I have always cut on the push to reduce tear out on the face... Especially if cutting plywood or veneer boards..so I show them that method and let them choose. I reckon I have snapped maybe 3 blades in 28 years.... One of those was last week while demonstrating with the worst abused blade I have seen ..typically having just told the students I have only ever snapped the blade.......well sure you can finish the sentence....🤣 As for the fret saw I think you can use scoll saw blades in which case the 360 degree tooth pattern blades would stop you having to twist the blade (which presumably must considerably weaken the blade?) And would overcome the clearance issue....just a thought... Brilliant info as always Matt
Great hints. I used to love the coping saw 40 odd years ago but finally bought a cheap new one recently as I learned from RUclips videos, if you're on a low budget, buy cheap to start and familiarise yourself then you can buy a good valu one more expensive so you can rely on it better and learn to adapt to the newer one when you are in a better position to buy one. I use the same technique with chisels learning to use them and most important learn how to improve my sharpening skills then I will buy the better quality. I'm making things out of not too good wood at the moment to relearn the basics and see what adjustments I could make to suit myself them I will be buying good wood just like a car I bought an old one to learn and didn't mind small accidents then bought good after learning. Great video and detailed pointing out hints and tips many of which people need to know when considering any tool
Welcome back. Been missing your videos. Can you do one on the difference between using a shop vac and a dust extractor. You have both and I can only afford one or the other. I have various power tools, such as routers, and an old industrial table saw.
Very good video! What I find the most difficult with these saws is keeping it perfectly horizontal, I always tend to leave more waste on the back side of the board when cutting dovetails.
Thanks for taking the mystery out of this tool that seemed so simple but I could get to work correctly. On my next try I will apply the concepts and techniques you shared. Thanks again.
Wow. Great video. The video I didn't know I needed. I was struggling to loosen, & insert the blade in the center of a board (which I need to do for a bunch of cuts), & then re-tension the blade. Funny thing, You gave a video that taught everything EXCEPT that one aspect of using a coping saw. But I ended up not minding at all, because I know what you taught will be of great help as I move on to saw my project. So how DO you tension this blade a gazillion times? the EZ way (with a board hanging from the saw in the mix?)
Ive been woodworking for a year now and Ive been obsessed with watching guitar builds. So i decided Im making a BASS by hand. well while i was cutting out the body, I used my coping saw for the curves and my blades kept breaking... and now i know why. Gonna try again with the neck blank.
I always enjoy your tutorials I get so much out of it. And if possible could you stock up on marking knives your shop is empty I had the privilege of using one the other day and they are beautifully balanced and a joy to use thanks Matt
Thank you very much for your tutorial. I am using the saw from knew concepts in combination with spirally twisted saw blades. They might be less effective and probably don't allow the same tension compared to flat blades but allow you to saw in any direction. As anything it is of course a matter of personal preference...
Thank you Matt! This should help me get on better terms with my coping saws. As always, your instructions are clear and practical, and I'm always looking for your next video.
I've just finished a DIY traditional style coping saw as described in a Jonathan Katz-Moses video last year. It's loads better than the basic coping saws. I used some scrap Ash and bolts modified with a dremel.
For Fretsaws there are round blades cutting all around. I really like those. No need to turn the saw and very small so perfekt for really thin japanese saws. You might not get as straight of a cut and therefore you need to stay a little away from your line but on the other hand you can start your cut all the way down in the cut.
A great little video. Well structured and delivered. I thought I needed a coping saw until I "saw" this video (sorry). Now I can just stick with my marquetry fret saw.
I’ll add that your name is in a very short list of teaching masters I pass on to my mates, along with Mike Pekovich, Paul Sellers, Rob Cosman and Stumpy Nubs!
Hi, I'm new to your channel and have to say it's a class above the rest, so easy to understand, so clear and concise, loved the tour of your workshop video.. Keep it coming..
If I could give 10 👍 I would. Oh how I've not enjoyed using my coping saw. This was the most helpful video I've ever seen. Thank you so much for doing it.
This was very useful, Matt. I got a new Japanese dovetail saw from Katz-Moses and my coping saw wasn't even close to fitting in the slot. I thought it was me and I have been reluctant to work on dovetails since. haha.
Matt, just want you to know how much I appreciate your training content. You're one of my top favorite Woodworker's who always gives the best instruction. Wish I could contribute to you financially for all that I've learned from you. I can't at the moment, but hope to do so in the not too distant future. All the best to you!
My biggest struggle is getting the front and the back of the cut level. I'm usually close to the line on the front and above or below the line on the back.
Matt I've been contemplating buying the fretsaw you have in this video I believe it's from Knew concepts. I sent a email to the company who is advertising it to ask about the blade's etc and I was told it's a new Japanese type blade that allows you to cut in 3 different directions and they cost about £30 for a package of three or four blades. Knowing that you have more experience with the New concept fretsaw than I. I wanted to ask you if you think it's worth having plus is this company blowing smoke up my arse with the price for the new blade's and do they really work in 3 different directions 🤔?. As always buddy 💯% 👍. P.s. what's happened to your sidekick Rob?
"Don't focus so much on the task at hand, focus on long light strokes and just carefully moving that frame around it's gonna make it a lot easier to make that turn. Focus on long strokes, it makes all the difference." 👍👍 I trust you 😂😂
I find long cuts work better going through wood especially it let you move the saw but let the saw do the work you will find it works quicker better and cleaner cuts and I agree when you feel the saw sticking or wedging in the wood I release tension to bring back saw in cut and work the saw back and forth in the already cut section you guide it and let the saw make its own track and it will cut easier and better and the saw will fall into place in the cut and leave you with a better cut. There is nothing worse than hacking through a piece of wood then having to find alternative ways to try and clean up your cut
You are simply a wealth of knowledge! I really appreciate how you are able to not only tell us how, but why so we can really get a good understnding of each technique. Thank you for another awesome video!
What I find I have to repeat to people over and over with any saw, but especially coping saws is _stop using force._ I see them push so hard the blade forms a triangle and they complain it breaks when they try to turn it without sawing... Never mind you've told them not to push and only to turn while sawing a hundred time... it's the saw's fault...
The coping saw was and still is designed to cut on the pull, not the push, stroke. To cut on the push is like pushing string, You shoud also be cutting in a vertical position, cutting on the down stroke.
Nice technique, but I didn't spend $165 on a coping saw, I went a better, more satisfying route. I made my own and it cuts much better than the big box saws, and a lot cheaper than the I beam saw you showed.
So, someone who admits that he's never actually needed to use a coping saw is going to tell us how to use one? It was painful to watch. Here's a tip - drill a hole where you need to turn the blade, preferably before you start sawing. Measure the thickness of the blade so you know what size drill to use.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Matt, you probably dont read this, but I watch woodworking youtube videos more than anyone else I know...hours and hours daily..I work a job that allows me to do such. So I have seen every single youtuber that does woodworking, all the big names and more smaller names than I can count...and BY FAR...I learn the most from you..thank you
Thank you!
I feel the same way. Matt is my go-to guy. And, at 73, I really like seeing young people like Matt mastering a trade, in this case, woodworking. I am spending time in my small, basement shop learning to cut dovetails. I sharpen my chisels like Matt recommends with great success, pare and chop they way he teaches and now have learned how to use my fret saw properly. My own creations still look like hobo's teeth but see improvement as I practice, learning from my mistakes. I cut them off my practice blanks and start over. Have accumulated a lot of cutoffs which are good for kindling fires in my wood stove. We never get too old to learn.
What about for cutting though basswood that's abiut .19in thick the fret saw should be best right
"Focus on long strokes." Good rule of thumb that applies to so many situations.
🤣🤣🤣 thanks. This was great
and a proper technique!
Also not going faster just because it seems like a good idea at the time.
@@Becka_Harper hahahahahahahaha!!!!
Yep definitely the long strokes apparently way better than the old five fingered vinegar stroke!.
And don't forget the advice from Amanda Harper....take your time and your definitely going to be enjoying the process way more than just a quick rush and over and done with!!!.
😂🤪😜 sorry but I just couldn't help myself with these comments 😅 😂 🤣.
Only 4 minutes in and this was already easily the clearest, most concise and most useful info I have found so far on coping saws or fretsaws. Great content because useful!
Glad you found it helpful Steven!
Yup. I totally agree with you.
Right!? Even the little things like: If your fret saw blade is thicker than your saw blade it'll be harder to do the job, so check that it's thinner. Or: If you're cutting a 5cm thick piece use a blade with fewer teeth so they don't clog up, and for a 3mm thin piece use one with lots of teeth to avoid tear out. Makes perfect sense, but always so helpful to hear it repeated!
And the advice on frame geometry, a frame with a more square geometry will allow greater tension and help reduce breakages. I wouldn't have thought about it, I would've just assumed that the marketing department forced the engineers to make one model look cooler
The first half of the ruclips.net/user/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
I’m new to woodworking and I’ve done some stupid things as I’ve developed. Most recently, that would be not knowing that you OBVIOUSLY, when you glue up a table top it rests upside down in a flat surface. Anyway, I’ve watched videos across woodTube that approach their topic with an assumption that the viewer has base knowledge. When you don’t, the steps they skip can range from slightly confusing to downright dangerous. After projecting a 2x4 fully across my garage because I wasn’t aware of the whole “don’t put anything between the fence and router bit” thing, I decided to do deeper dives. Matt is EXACTLY WHAT I NEED. Every subject is clear, detailed, and the tips are helpful. Unlike the many “if you want better work just use this $1000 machine to do it for you, it’s way easier” DIY videos, I actually learn from this channel. Thanks for what you’re doing. If I had any typos, I apologize, I’m just getting used to swipe texting to prepare for my inevitable future of doing small tasks without the use of all my fingers.
I have to echo what others have said Matt. One of, if not the best vid on this subject. So many very pertinent points and helpful tips. It’s one saw I do struggle with. Thanks for sharing.
Matt is such a good teacher. I’ve just started in wood working and couldn’t ask for a better teacher. So lucky that Matt is sharing this knowledge. Thank you.
Matt you are a gifted instructor!! Your curriculum and delivery invites people to learn about tools and become better by practice, focus and feel, is so refreshing. I taught ~5yrs private post secondary (Drafting, CAD & Electronics) and found sometimes, inviting people how to learn is sometimes far greater than the lesson itself. I so enjoy this series and pick up a lot of good techniques to practice myself. Thank You Much for raising the caliber of craftsmanship in the community!
Wow man, good job! Respect 👍 😊 You certainly are a skibidi sigma 😉
Oh thankyou! I've got a project I want to do and this type of saw will be perfect. Loving the way you are plain speaking and keep things simple.
As a lecturer we are told to teach the students to cut on the pull to keep tension...(which I personally don't agree with) as a cabinet maker of many many years I have always cut on the push to reduce tear out on the face... Especially if cutting plywood or veneer boards..so I show them that method and let them choose. I reckon I have snapped maybe 3 blades in 28 years.... One of those was last week while demonstrating with the worst abused blade I have seen ..typically having just told the students I have only ever snapped the blade.......well sure you can finish the sentence....🤣 As for the fret saw I think you can use scoll saw blades in which case the 360 degree tooth pattern blades would stop you having to twist the blade (which presumably must considerably weaken the blade?) And would overcome the clearance issue....just a thought... Brilliant info as always Matt
Great hints. I used to love the coping saw 40 odd years ago but finally bought a cheap new one recently as I learned from RUclips videos, if you're on a low budget, buy cheap to start and familiarise yourself then you can buy a good valu one more expensive so you can rely on it better and learn to adapt to the newer one when you are in a better position to buy one. I use the same technique with chisels learning to use them and most important learn how to improve my sharpening skills then I will buy the better quality. I'm making things out of not too good wood at the moment to relearn the basics and see what adjustments I could make to suit myself them I will be buying good wood just like a car I bought an old one to learn and didn't mind small accidents then bought good after learning. Great video and detailed pointing out hints and tips many of which people need to know when considering any tool
Best tutorials on RUclips! Thank you, Matt!
Thank you for this awesome video. I just bought a coping saw yesterday (15t). Thanks to you I can make the dovetails I want! Once again, thanks!
Welcome back. Been missing your videos. Can you do one on the difference between using a shop vac and a dust extractor. You have both and I can only afford one or the other. I have various power tools, such as routers, and an old industrial table saw.
Such a great teacher. Learn so much in such a short time, clearly and full of information.
Brilliant mate, no BS straight to it. Great point about putting blade into tension rather than compression which would cause it to buckle.
Good video on a seldom discussed topic. I loathe coping saws, can never get the hang of them. My fret saw was a revelation for me.
Hi, Matt! This is the first time I’ve seen your work, and if the rest of your videos are as helpful as this, I’m going to learn a lot!
Very good video! What I find the most difficult with these saws is keeping it perfectly horizontal, I always tend to leave more waste on the back side of the board when cutting dovetails.
Thanks Matt.
I am just going to say it,
This IS the best explanation I have seen👊🏾
Matt - Really appreciate your approach and clear explanations. All of your videos have been tremendously helpful. Please keep up the great work.
Thanks for taking the mystery out of this tool that seemed so simple but I could get to work correctly. On my next try I will apply the concepts and techniques you shared. Thanks again.
Good luck with it Lincoln!
This was fascinating! I just wanted to make a quick DIY, but this makes me want to dive deep into woodworking lol
Wow. Great video. The video I didn't know I needed. I was struggling to loosen, & insert the blade in the center of a board (which I need to do for a bunch of cuts), & then re-tension the blade. Funny thing, You gave a video that taught everything EXCEPT that one aspect of using a coping saw. But I ended up not minding at all, because I know what you taught will be of great help as I move on to saw my project. So how DO you tension this blade a gazillion times? the EZ way (with a board hanging from the saw in the mix?)
Thanks for all your time and effort. That really helped.
Excellent presentation. I learned a lot. thank you!
This was very helpful. Just getting ready to do houndstooth dovetails on a box project and have a lot of waste to clear out on the tail boards
Damn! That’s no easy task. Good luck :)
Ive been woodworking for a year now and Ive been obsessed with watching guitar builds. So i decided Im making a BASS by hand. well while i was cutting out the body, I used my coping saw for the curves and my blades kept breaking... and now i know why. Gonna try again with the neck blank.
Excellent video. Great information. Direct and clear on variations, techniques, and selection. Thanks, it will help me to do this better.
This video had so much useful info - I’m definitely going to try out these methods to improve my coping saw skills
I needed this information, thanks. Just started doing dovetails and your explanation of things really helps.
I always enjoy your tutorials I get so much out of it. And if possible could you stock up on marking knives your shop is empty I had the privilege of using one the other day and they are beautifully balanced and a joy to use thanks Matt
Beautifully explained. 💪👌
Excellent tutorial
Many thanks
Awesome video mate. Cleared up all my questions. Cheers
Excellent video, certainly helped me with how to use my fret saw..Thanks Alf
THANK YOU! ❤
Great video! Just like my momma used to say "Focus on long strokes and proper technique"
Thank you very much for your tutorial. I am using the saw from knew concepts in combination with spirally twisted saw blades. They might be less effective and probably don't allow the same tension compared to flat blades but allow you to saw in any direction. As anything it is of course a matter of personal preference...
Wow what a brilliant video - thanks Matt.
Fantastic tips, Matt! Thanks a LOT! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you Matt! This should help me get on better terms with my coping saws. As always, your instructions are clear and practical, and I'm always looking for your next video.
Great explanation Matt.
I've just finished a DIY traditional style coping saw as described in a Jonathan Katz-Moses video last year. It's loads better than the basic coping saws. I used some scrap Ash and bolts modified with a dremel.
For Fretsaws there are round blades cutting all around. I really like those. No need to turn the saw and very small so perfekt for really thin japanese saws.
You might not get as straight of a cut and therefore you need to stay a little away from your line but on the other hand you can start your cut all the way down in the cut.
Good to see you Matt. Great content. Thanks!
I like the way you teach, thank you
Great guide, thanks Matt
9:46 A while ago I saw fret saw blades that had teeth all around them in a spiral, so you could cut in any direction. They were really handy!
Yea, kinda cool but for someone impatient like me, cut WAAAY to slow ;)
A great little video. Well structured and delivered. I thought I needed a coping saw until I "saw" this video (sorry). Now I can just stick with my marquetry fret saw.
Matt, Great video. I always learn something new. Your videos are down to earth and easy to follow. Thanks
Thanks, got it! Two handed, long strokes, technique beats lubricant.
One of the next videos in these 2022 tutorials you should do is one for how to use rasps and files and add a little section explaning shinto rasps.
I’ve shared this series of yours with so many people, already. Really well designed classes!
I’ll add that your name is in a very short list of teaching masters I pass on to my mates, along with Mike Pekovich, Paul Sellers, Rob Cosman and Stumpy Nubs!
Very nice , you're a great tutor!
Hi, I'm new to your channel and have to say it's a class above the rest, so easy to understand, so clear and concise, loved the tour of your workshop video.. Keep it coming..
Great Job
Wow! Immediate like AND subscribe (although I don’t do much wood working). This is how you make a video of this type. Bravo!
Amazing Matt, thank you
If I could give 10 👍 I would. Oh how I've not enjoyed using my coping saw. This was the most helpful video I've ever seen. Thank you so much for doing it.
Nice video very complete
Enjoyed the video... keep up the good work - Cheers from down under.......
This was very useful, Matt. I got a new Japanese dovetail saw from Katz-Moses and my coping saw wasn't even close to fitting in the slot. I thought it was me and I have been reluctant to work on dovetails since. haha.
That’s because at the bottom of the dovetails you need to use a chisel, my nizzle!
Matt, just want you to know how much I appreciate your training content. You're one of my top favorite Woodworker's who always gives the best instruction. Wish I could contribute to you financially for all that I've learned from you. I can't at the moment, but hope to do so in the not too distant future. All the best to you!
Finally! Damn man. I know..you did the bench like 6 days ago but i didn't comment that one....where ya been?
Excellent as always so close to 3000000
Thanks!!!
Which one is good for wood with 2 centimeters thickness?
thank you
Matt i found my test cut through ~1cm thick chipboard wasn't perpendicular to the face... ie it was angulated...any advice for an amateur please?
Huh, demystifying Coping and fret saws. I didn't know how little I knew!
Is a coping saw basically what a jig or scroll saw was mimicking in a power tool?
this is helpful
This will help a lot when making fun looking wooden toy guns and swords for the kids! Thanks Matt!
Los arcos de sierra son una maravilla.
thanks
Tool video super..!
My biggest struggle is getting the front and the back of the cut level. I'm usually close to the line on the front and above or below the line on the back.
Matt I've been contemplating buying the fretsaw you have in this video I believe it's from Knew concepts. I sent a email to the company who is advertising it to ask about the blade's etc and I was told it's a new Japanese type blade that allows you to cut in 3 different directions and they cost about £30 for a package of three or four blades. Knowing that you have more experience with the New concept fretsaw than I.
I wanted to ask you if you think it's worth having plus is this company blowing smoke up my arse with the price for the new blade's and do they really work in 3 different directions 🤔?. As always buddy 💯% 👍.
P.s. what's happened to your sidekick Rob?
"Don't focus so much on the task at hand, focus on long light strokes and just carefully moving that frame around it's gonna make it a lot easier to make that turn.
Focus on long strokes, it makes all the difference." 👍👍
I trust you 😂😂
I find long cuts work better going through wood especially it let you move the saw but let the saw do the work you will find it works quicker better and cleaner cuts and I agree when you feel the saw sticking or wedging in the wood I release tension to bring back saw in cut and work the saw back and forth in the already cut section you guide it and let the saw make its own track and it will cut easier and better and the saw will fall into place in the cut and leave you with a better cut. There is nothing worse than hacking through a piece of wood then having to find alternative ways to try and clean up your cut
You are simply a wealth of knowledge! I really appreciate how you are able to not only tell us how, but why so we can really get a good understnding of each technique. Thank you for another awesome video!
Twistymabob. Nice.
What I find I have to repeat to people over and over with any saw, but especially coping saws is _stop using force._ I see them push so hard the blade forms a triangle and they complain it breaks when they try to turn it without sawing... Never mind you've told them not to push and only to turn while sawing a hundred time... it's the saw's fault...
Solid.
The coping saw was and still is designed to cut on the pull, not the push, stroke. To cut on the push is like pushing string, You shoud also be cutting in a vertical position, cutting on the down stroke.
Why are fret saws literally ten times the price of coping saws?
How about a bio on yourself?
“Don’t Fret” ❤️
Thanks 🇦🇺👴🏻
🙏🙏🙏
Also... the saw direction is not determined by the position of the frame... look at where the cut is going...
His sweater says, "Don't Fret".
I think he is coping.
Your genius has taken my breath away 🤣
That's what I keep telling her. Long strokes 😁🇨🇦
I go for coping saw as they appear cheaper.
Lol, you did not just suggest bending a Knew Concepts saw!
Nice technique, but I didn't spend $165 on a coping saw, I went a better, more satisfying route. I made my own and it cuts much better than the big box saws, and a lot cheaper than the I beam saw you showed.
So, someone who admits that he's never actually needed to use a coping saw is going to tell us how to use one? It was painful to watch.
Here's a tip - drill a hole where you need to turn the blade, preferably before you start sawing. Measure the thickness of the blade so you know what size drill to use.
Fret saws are like peicing saws.