It just blows me away watching Paul "free styling" dovetails... this man does it with an ease and accuracy that is a testament to his decades of experience. He does dovetails as easily as another man ties his shoe laces!!
Thank you so much for these videos. As a woman starting in the trade, no one really explained anything to me and when I asked questions to learn between being made to grab lunch and clean, the men I worked with wouldn’t even explain. I’ve been teaching myself and videos like yours are a big reason I’m the best carpenter at my job now. 💕
I been watching your video for about 5/6 years now …. I made bench following your instructions. I typically watch a video 3 times 1st,2cd for information,instructions. The 3rd for entertainment… it just never gets old watching a master at work. Thank you for your information, instructions and inspiration. you are truly one of the last Mohicans.
Reminds me of our woodworking schoolteacher many years ago__"think thrice ,measure twice ,cut once!"__"waste side of the line,just touching the line". Instilled in my brain to this day! Great video
This has nothing specifically related to coping saws. I just received you book, purchased mostly for my son. I needed this compendium 55 years ago while I was a mere lad of 21. Thank you, Paul, very very much👍👍👍
Lol, when I do dovetails, I spend a lot of time measuring, drawing lines, and very carefully cut and chisel. You just knocked that out with very few lines, and they came out perfectly! You are a true Master of your Craft. Been watching you for a long time, and have learned so much from you. Thanks!
I've lost count of how many dove tailing videos of Paul's I've watched over the years but they never become tiring to watch and there's always a little something else i learn . Thank you Paul.
Very good skill and master craftsmanship. You are better than the master craftsman in US DIY program “This old house”. I have learn a lot from you. in US. I wish you will have a good health. I am waiting to watch more program from you.
I watched woodcraft show about cutting dovetail with coping saw. Exact same as Paul Sellers, except they used a hand plane on the side. Put it up to the board in the vice leveling the board to the hand plane, then moved the hand plane out as a stand. It made it easier to mark the board in the vice without having to hold the other board with just your hand. Sorry so difficult to describe this technique of marking the boards.
In the grand scheme it seems it doesn’t matter how bulk of the waste is removed. The fine work is with a chisel in the dovetail (any joint) and the pencil line/knife line slightly off fit adjusted with the plane at the end. A great craftsman with simplicity as his words of wisdom. Fantastic!
Thank you Paul for this new dovetail video. I used this method to make some drawers for a tool cabinet I threw together to organize my tools before finishing my bench. They were not as pretty but they did boost my confidence. It helped to watch your videos several times. Always a treat to learn and practice your methods.
I'm at a pool RN, which seems like a happy sort of place. So after watching the video, I went and read all comments, made some comments, and liked everyone's comment. All in a day, I guess. ❤it! Hang loose.
Thanks for this video. I have a coping saw, but not a fret saw. The first time I tried joining with dovetails, I ended up removing all the waste with just chisels. It will be a lot easier with a coping saw.
I started DIY woodworking about 14 months ago. I always learn a lot from your videos and I thank you so much. I watch even though I may not be ready to do the level of work you demonstrate as in this video. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome! I always see dovetails first drawed on each peace of Woody very vert extremely precisely because dovetails need very precise drawn before first cut, it takes hours and hours, make it so boring. You had just reconcile me with the desire of trying dovetails easily. Thanks one More Time!
Hi Paul, this video is great timing for me, I'm making a couple of small Beehives (NUCs) at the moment and am leaving the roof to the end . . . . it's going to be Dovetailed ;-) will take some helpful tips away from your video and do a better job this time. Thanks again.
Followed you throughout your RUclips "Life" and this video and, as with all the others, this is just such a pleasure to watch. Instructional, no nonsense approach. It amazes me how much your style has been imitated by so may, but never bettered.
Can you share how a beginner will be doing this, assuming inaccurate cuts etc? I assume there will be a lot of back and forth getting the perfect fit, how would you do that?
I have no reply based on actual dovetail-making experience. But what I think is the case is that as long as your inaccurate cuts are on the waste side of the line, you're good because you can just chisel to the line accurately. But if your inaccurate cuts result in mismatched dovetails and pins, or cut on the wrong side of the line/knifewall, you may have to use the piece as practice. Just my intuitive thought. Again, not based on any actual experience. Have a good one frfr
3:22 happens everytime wahahahahahah ,,, i am a noob woodworking enthusias, And Mister Paul explain every so nicely. It's like bob rose in wood working..
I like this method a lot because when I try to imagine craftsmen in the 1800s having to churn out furniture for the middle/low end of the market this is how I imagine them doing it. It wouldn't matter if each set of dovetails is different so long as they pass a glancing inspection and were strong.
To my eye, those finished dovetails look perfect. I don't see how, using instead Mr Sellers's preferred 'chop and pare' method, one could improve on them. Granted, without his skill and experience the results here would likely be less perfect; but that must be the case with either method.
.Measure with a Micrometer, Mark with chalk and Cut with an Axe - I prefer PS method best. Nice that I have learned a more efficient way for Dovetails. (sorry about the Caps its just me)
In general, there's two main types of thread patterns depending on the type of wood being fastened. SPF 2x4s are generally considered "softwood" so a course thread screw is used. Wood such as oak is considered "hardwood," so a fine thread screw is used. There are many variations on these as well as lengths and diameters, so you then filter it down based on the project and desired result. Maybe this helps?
Excellent. The exact method I was taught at school in the 1970s and have used since. I rember my woodwork teacher observing that "some people put the coping saw blade in back-to-front" but dismissed the notion as odd (the only justification for a backwards blade being when pulling a (usually fret-) saw down onto a work surface from below). I also like the back-saw, thin blade but stiff and (in my view) far superior to the Japanese toys that have become a fad amoung youtube wood workers.
I've done both methods but prefer your first original method of just hand saw and chisel. For me, I get better more refined results. Thanks for sharing.
The sawing of the tails and pins is done without knife wall (because it's end grain), but why not mark it all carefully with a sharp pencil and not use the knife wall at all? It makes it easier but not doing knife walls saves you a step. If it's for drawer backs and beehives in pine, then why not train your accuracy using pencil? Tried two like this and the second one wasn't so bad..
I've only chopped all my pins and tails so far. For practice. Only really soft wood sawing may be the best way, since you can accidentally chew out the monopoly house and leave it looking like a pulled tooth.
Using a coping or fret saw seems to be the quickest method for me. Something that I think is not said enough when learning dovetails is that the knife line is law. If you make a nick beyond the knife wall, don't try to correct it, but continue removing material only up to that knife wall.
Love this video Paul! The only request I would make is one or two more close ups of the finished joint at the end of the video, perhaps with some mineral spirits or something to darken the contrast. Keep up the great work!
Always making it look easy. Turns out, its simple, not easy. When I do it it looks like it was gnawed out by a dull woodchuck. Practice practice practice.
I would he interested to have Paul explain why he's usually always said this method isn't really recommended and only for rougher work (I seem to recall him always referring to a birdhouse).
I noticed that too. He said he doesn't use this method frequently, and later he added that he would do his usual method for more refined pieces. I guess because I'm a complete novice, to me the results of this method look refined. But maybe my perspective will change if I get to a point where I've developed even this level of skill. Maybe.
The problem I have when using a coping saw is that even though I stay a large distance away from the knife wall, I get so much tear-out that goes all the way beyond the knife wall. I'm getting much better results just chiseling out the entire waste, even though I hated the idea of it at first because it seemed like much more work.
@@Raiver-of-Eridu Yes sorry, I was unclear then. You could deepen the knife wall with a chisel. A little bit should be enough. However I think changing the blade would be a good idea aswell. I think Im using a 12 tpi blade and I dont get that much tear out. Good luck for your next joints! :)
Astonishing. No gauges, kerf offsets or precise measurements, yet a perfect fit. Skills honed over the years!
It just blows me away watching Paul "free styling" dovetails... this man does it with an ease and accuracy that is a testament to his decades of experience. He does dovetails as easily as another man ties his shoe laces!!
Well said!
Thank you so much for these videos. As a woman starting in the trade, no one really explained anything to me and when I asked questions to learn between being made to grab lunch and clean, the men I worked with wouldn’t even explain. I’ve been teaching myself and videos like yours are a big reason I’m the best carpenter at my job now. 💕
I been watching your video for about 5/6 years now …. I made bench following your instructions. I typically watch a video 3 times 1st,2cd for information,instructions. The 3rd for entertainment… it just never gets old watching a master at work. Thank you for your information, instructions and inspiration. you are truly one of the last Mohicans.
Reminds me of our woodworking schoolteacher many years ago__"think thrice ,measure twice ,cut once!"__"waste side of the line,just touching the line". Instilled in my brain to this day! Great video
I love the fact that your years of experience mean that you can complete the job in the time I'm still marking out.
This has nothing specifically related to coping saws. I just received you book, purchased mostly for my son. I needed this compendium 55 years ago while I was a mere lad of 21. Thank you, Paul, very very much👍👍👍
Lol, when I do dovetails, I spend a lot of time measuring, drawing lines, and very carefully cut and chisel. You just knocked that out with very few lines, and they came out perfectly! You are a true Master of your Craft. Been watching you for a long time, and have learned so much from you. Thanks!
Having a video from Paul in my feed always makes me smile ❤️
I've lost count of how many dove tailing videos of Paul's I've watched over the years but they never become tiring to watch and there's always a little something else i learn . Thank you Paul.
The masters make it look easy.
Only takes 10 minutes (and a lifetimes experience) Always learn so much from Paul's videos.
Right!?!
Buy some 1x4 pine and practise every day, you will get good. Chance to practice sawing, planing, marking and dovetails.
You make it look so easy it drives me crazy 😝
Thanks Paul, just what needed right now!
Very good skill and master craftsmanship. You are better than the master craftsman in US DIY program “This old house”. I have learn a lot from you. in US. I wish you will have a good health. I am waiting to watch more program from you.
Never a bad video over here. Always something to learn.
Don't say that, otherwise the goodies will go behind a paywall. The Brits don't give away anything of value for free.
Thanks Paul...you definitely make it look easy. There's a very high level of skill in that man's hands ladies and gentlemen.
You make dovetails look so easy to make.
I watched woodcraft show about cutting dovetail with coping saw. Exact same as Paul Sellers, except they used a hand plane on the side. Put it up to the board in the vice leveling the board to the hand plane, then moved the hand plane out as a stand. It made it easier to mark the board in the vice without having to hold the other board with just your hand. Sorry so difficult to describe this technique of marking the boards.
Actually, funny you mention this technique. I keep seeing it in Paul's videos as well. Nice little trick of the trade!
And boom just like that it’s awesome. Experience and time served definitely on show in this video 👍👍
Another birdhouse will be a fitting project for me to apply this dovetail method. Thank you for all the education!!
In the grand scheme it seems it doesn’t matter how bulk of the waste is removed. The fine work is with a chisel in the dovetail (any joint) and the pencil line/knife line slightly off fit adjusted with the plane at the end. A great craftsman with simplicity as his words of wisdom. Fantastic!
A nice simple method
Your videos have inspired me to return to hand work. Thanks for the inspiration and the careful and comprehensive tuition.
I’m always amazed at how fast and easy you make a dovetail ! Thank you sir !
Thanks for making this demonstration. Amazing, great skill. Back to the shop for practice....
The easier it looks the better you are. So you are pretty good at this stuff :)
Amazing, thank you!
It’s taking me forever marking dovetail, and paul be like draw line and just cope it 😬 such a legend!
Virtual Grandfather ❤️
Thank you Paul for this new dovetail video. I used this method to make some drawers for a tool cabinet I threw together to organize my tools before finishing my bench. They were not as pretty but they did boost my confidence. It helped to watch your videos several times. Always a treat to learn and practice your methods.
Thank you, Paul! As ever, usable info well presented.
I'm at a pool RN, which seems like a happy sort of place. So after watching the video, I went and read all comments, made some comments, and liked everyone's comment. All in a day, I guess. ❤it! Hang loose.
Oh Paul. You make it look so easy. I've got into such a mess with my coping saw, but I'll keep trying.
What makes it look easy is 60 years of experience. I have the same problems.
Totally underrated comment.
Same.
Pura vida Paul great technique I like that you like to used vintage Stanley bench plane in my case I like
Thanks for this video. I have a coping saw, but not a fret saw. The first time I tried joining with dovetails, I ended up removing all the waste with just chisels. It will be a lot easier with a coping saw.
I would love to be able to study under this craftsman.
Hello
Beautiful work,lovely dovetail.
It is very interesting to see your videos
I started DIY woodworking about 14 months ago. I always learn a lot from your videos and I thank you so much. I watch even though I may not be ready to do the level of work you demonstrate as in this video. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome! I always see dovetails first drawed on each peace of Woody very vert extremely precisely because dovetails need very precise drawn before first cut, it takes hours and hours, make it so boring. You had just reconcile me with the desire of trying dovetails easily.
Thanks one More Time!
This is how I was taught to cut dovetails at college brings back memories
Thank you Paul, you make it look easy!
Thanks so much Paul for taking the time to teach and share your knowledge as well as your skill.
Hi Paul, this video is great timing for me, I'm making a couple of small Beehives (NUCs) at the moment and am leaving the roof to the end . . . . it's going to be Dovetailed ;-) will take some helpful tips away from your video and do a better job this time. Thanks again.
Followed you throughout your RUclips "Life" and this video and, as with all the others, this is just such a pleasure to watch. Instructional, no nonsense approach. It amazes me how much your style has been imitated by so may, but never bettered.
Absolutely stunning 👌🏻
Thanks Paul and team
Great one Paul
Effortlessly! Wonderful.
Thanks for that method, another great video.
Chapeau l’artiste. Merci
Well you sure do make it look simple. Thanks again 🍻
That just made hand-cut dovetails seem a lot more attainable to me. Thanks, Paul.
Same.
Paul makes it look so easy…
Danke! Thank you very much for the excellently explained woodwork instructions, I really like to watch them and learn a lot🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻😃
That's definitely an amazing skill I have never been very good at! 😎👍
Can you share how a beginner will be doing this, assuming inaccurate cuts etc? I assume there will be a lot of back and forth getting the perfect fit, how would you do that?
I have no reply based on actual dovetail-making experience. But what I think is the case is that as long as your inaccurate cuts are on the waste side of the line, you're good because you can just chisel to the line accurately. But if your inaccurate cuts result in mismatched dovetails and pins, or cut on the wrong side of the line/knifewall, you may have to use the piece as practice. Just my intuitive thought. Again, not based on any actual experience. Have a good one frfr
He proves that hand tools with skill are faster than power tools.
Grande , passerei tutto il giorno a vederti come lavori... il legno... .. scusa tu lo modelli
good teacher, super video.
Dude is not from this planet. Supreme being.
No Rebate, No adjustments for the kerf, No glue...
You make it look so easy1
The more times you do it the better you get.
You are the best!!!
Thanks Paul😊
3:22 happens everytime wahahahahahah ,,, i am a noob woodworking enthusias, And Mister Paul explain every so nicely. It's like bob rose in wood working..
thank you
I like this method a lot because when I try to imagine craftsmen in the 1800s having to churn out furniture for the middle/low end of the market this is how I imagine them doing it.
It wouldn't matter if each set of dovetails is different so long as they pass a glancing inspection and were strong.
To my eye, those finished dovetails look perfect. I don't see how, using instead Mr Sellers's preferred 'chop and pare' method, one could improve on them. Granted, without his skill and experience the results here would likely be less perfect; but that must be the case with either method.
Same. From my novice, no experience perspective, these are "refined."
The presented skill level is beyond beginners ....
🙂
.Measure with a Micrometer, Mark with chalk and Cut with an Axe - I prefer PS method best. Nice that I have learned a more efficient way for Dovetails. (sorry about the Caps its just me)
Wow! It fits… just so
GRAZIE ANCORA ;COME POSSO FARE PER ASCOLTAERE I TUOI VIDEO in ITALIANO,,, GRAZIE Donato
This is the way I learnt when I first was taught at school and still use too. Great to see I’m not on my own.
Thanks Paul, superb as always. Nice cheap way to practice... which I will try :)
Apologies for the bad grammar!!
Beautiful work, Paul! 😃
Thanks a bunch for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
How easy it is to do… It's disconcerting ;-) Thanks a lot Paul.
Same 😂
this dude is just god mode
Is your coping saw blade set to cut on the pull stroke or push stroke?
He mentioned a couple times that it's...wait, sarcasm? IDK, but he did say a couple times it's set to cut on the push stroke.❤it!
Paul, can you please make a sunrise dovetail? I would love to see you make one and your opinion of it
Great!
Sure wish I could wish I could get my edge tools that sharp.
What screws to use on 2x4?
In general, there's two main types of thread patterns depending on the type of wood being fastened. SPF 2x4s are generally considered "softwood" so a course thread screw is used. Wood such as oak is considered "hardwood," so a fine thread screw is used. There are many variations on these as well as lengths and diameters, so you then filter it down based on the project and desired result. Maybe this helps?
Excellent. The exact method I was taught at school in the 1970s and have used since. I rember my woodwork teacher observing that "some people put the coping saw blade in back-to-front" but dismissed the notion as odd (the only justification for a backwards blade being when pulling a (usually fret-) saw down onto a work surface from below). I also like the back-saw, thin blade but stiff and (in my view) far superior to the Japanese toys that have become a fad amoung youtube wood workers.
I've done both methods but prefer your first original method of just hand saw and chisel. For me, I get better more refined results. Thanks for sharing.
Wow! A true master at work.
Paul is the dad I wish I had. I have a dad, but he's not particularly pleasant to be around.
The sawing of the tails and pins is done without knife wall (because it's end grain), but why not mark it all carefully with a sharp pencil and not use the knife wall at all? It makes it easier but not doing knife walls saves you a step. If it's for drawer backs and beehives in pine, then why not train your accuracy using pencil?
Tried two like this and the second one wasn't so bad..
Best!
Less than 9 minutes. I’d still be reading the instructions for a router jig. So much quieter and a lot less messy, too.
I've only chopped all my pins and tails so far. For practice. Only really soft wood sawing may be the best way, since you can accidentally chew out the monopoly house and leave it looking like a pulled tooth.
Using a coping or fret saw seems to be the quickest method for me. Something that I think is not said enough when learning dovetails is that the knife line is law. If you make a nick beyond the knife wall, don't try to correct it, but continue removing material only up to that knife wall.
Done by him looks like piece of cake, but when I try it is the mother´s of the mess, that´s why he´s a master!
"It would work on a beehive, anything like that." This sounds like it's going to be a pretty specialised joint.
Love this video Paul! The only request I would make is one or two more close ups of the finished joint at the end of the video, perhaps with some mineral spirits or something to darken the contrast. Keep up the great work!
Always making it look easy. Turns out, its simple, not easy. When I do it it looks like it was gnawed out by a dull woodchuck. Practice practice practice.
I would he interested to have Paul explain why he's usually always said this method isn't really recommended and only for rougher work (I seem to recall him always referring to a birdhouse).
I noticed that too. He said he doesn't use this method frequently, and later he added that he would do his usual method for more refined pieces. I guess because I'm a complete novice, to me the results of this method look refined. But maybe my perspective will change if I get to a point where I've developed even this level of skill. Maybe.
The problem I have when using a coping saw is that even though I stay a large distance away from the knife wall, I get so much tear-out that goes all the way beyond the knife wall. I'm getting much better results just chiseling out the entire waste, even though I hated the idea of it at first because it seemed like much more work.
You could make a knifewall. Then tear out would not happen. Just a suggestion :)
@@lebensschueler I did have a knife wall. Maybe it wasn't deep enough.
@@Raiver-of-Eridu Yes sorry, I was unclear then. You could deepen the knife wall with a chisel. A little bit should be enough. However I think changing the blade would be a good idea aswell. I think Im using a 12 tpi blade and I dont get that much tear out. Good luck for your next joints! :)
@@lebensschueler Thanks! I will try that next time.
Try a different saw blade.
Tey make marking gauges for a reason.
This is incredible. I dont have the proper tools yet, or the space, but your videos keep me in love with woodworking. Thank you very much.
that would take me probably 2 hours to do