In the past I would buy a new back saw when the one I was using cut noticeably slower, so I have three inexpensive Stanley saws in varying stages of dullness, two that are just laying there unused. Using your sharpening video as a guide, I recently sharpened the one I have been using for many years, (I don't remember exactly how long I have had it), and the results were amazing! It cut so much better and faster, while producing a straighter cut and thinner kerf.
Funny enough I actually saw Shannon Rogers' video earlier today before seeing this. I like Shannon, he's a good teacher and I did purchase his first semester hand tool school so I hope no one takes this the wrong way, but he often seems to make excuses or find reasons to go with the most expensive tools on the market. Shawn, I want to thank you so much for your latest series. My woodworking seems to go in fits and starts because of life but one thing that bothers me is that if people see too many boutique tools they'll get discouraged by the price of entry into the craft. Of course cheap tools can be too far in the other direction but it's nice seeing someone try to go get into the middle ground. I'm loving the new series and I'm considering using your box joints for a wall hung chest. Very well done!
I finally followed out what more exciting than watching paint DRY. Watch a saw being sharpened. lol I watched every minute and and grateful for you teaching methods. ALWAYS WORTH MY TIME
Paul Sellers allows as how the sharpen-ability of a saw determines whether it's worth buying. Apparently, some saws are disposable. It seems I can buy a $20 saw and then buy lots of equipment to make it right. And if I buy a $250 Cosman saw, I'd still need the equipment to keep it right. Just how much would I need to spend on the equipment?
You didn’t listen well to with Paul or I. Hardened teeth are designed not to be sharpened at expense of staying sharp much longer. A $3 file, 2x4 to squeeze the blade and clamps to do the squeezing is all need.
You can even sharpen those hardened ones with a 5-10 dollar file (diamond needle or 6 inch triangle depending on the tooth size.) It won't come out as nice, but it will be more than plenty sharp enough to cut with. You don't need hundreds in gizmos, and trinkets for sharpening a saw. You don't even need workholding to hold your saw. Just a file, and something to brace against (your workbench edge.)
Years ago, I started out with an even cheaper version of this saw, the one with a steel back instead of brass. I'm not sure if they make that version anymore. Much like you, I sharpened it at some point (can't seem to find a blog post saying when), and after that, it was great. I made a lot of stuff with it and never had a problem. I stopped using it only because I made a new saw to replace it.
Hello, Mr. Graham; *That's* what I'm talking about! Thank you so much for this! I just found it & I'm excited to learn this. I'll find or buy a cheapo on amazon & following your excellent example I'll tune it. Then I can learn to use it. Then I'll have a 'good' dovetail saw w/out spending $200-$300. Sounds like a plan. No I need to watch your video, "Making Panel Saws". Keep it up, pal, & I'll have to subscribe. Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
Well, I’m finally getting around to making a better workbench for myself. So after that gets done hopefully I can start collecting a few better tools. This should allow me to save a good bit of money! Thanks dude!
Hacksaw with a 14 or so tooth blade will work in a pinch. Tighten it up and go for it. Won’t clear the dust as quickly, but if you are really in a money bind, it will cut. Too much kerf? Diamond stone/ India stone sides to thin the thickness of the blade. They are hardened more than a custom blade, so you probably won’t need to replace for ten thousand dovetails or so. Softwood would probably be 10/12 tpi for a quicker cut. The masters of the past didn’t have what we have available, and look at what they did.
Hey man love your show I learn something every video. A quick question do you yourself run a school or have an apprenticeship. Woodworking is my passion.
Okay, so Shannon doesn't like the gent's saw, Rex Krueger and James Wright seem to think that it's only any good for throwing in the trash. And yet, you have the Veritas and have used it for 10+ years. Why? For me, the gent's saw just seems the correct one for the tiny, thin stock I am working on. I don't own one yet. My only backsaw is a cheap Spears & Jackson tenon saw. Just wondering why the gent's saw is good in your eyes.
I am curious if you ever tried a Japanese style saw, like this? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HYVW78L It costs under $30, has replaceable blades for about $17 and is super thin, sharp out of the box and comfortable to use. Not meant to be sharpened (but probably could be) and is, of course, a pull saw as Japanese saws are. As a newbie in dove tails, I tried classical inexpensive dove tail saw and had a horrible result (I did not sharpen it), but when I tried this Japanese saw I was blown away at how well the actual sawing part of the dove tailing went. I still need a lot of practice with other dove tailing aspects, but the saw aspect is SOLVED for me. Was wondering if you could review one of these. They are very inexpensive and I was very impressed.
Vladimir Ferdman the difference between a back/pull saw and a back/push saw is the body mechanics for each - the way you have to keep your body aligned for each to be efficient; I’m still learning all this stuff also...
Was watching Rob Cosman last night and this popped into my recs. Probably watched a Cosman dovetail maybe 10 years ago and watching your utilitarian dovetail I think I finally get it. And the most important thing? The saw! Think I'd have to use a little saw for marking and a fancy scribe like Rob does though 😎
A $6.00 utility knife would cut as well as, if not better than, your $100 Buck knife. People who do quality work often value using quality tools for many of the same reasons.
@@wortheffort do you not need the whole jig, can you get as good a result freehand? Appreciate if you could show a grinder jig for chisels. The veritas one is nice but costs more than my grinder 🤣
Todays saws are cut with a laser and they are for shit. they cut backwards about the same as forward. I can tell by the sound. I have a similar saw I bought in 1967 and never sharpened it and still use it.
These were stamped. Likely use same machine for all expecting customers to sharpen. Kinda like it was 60 years ago. No tools actually came sharp back then.
So you bought a saw over 50 years ago, have never sharpened it, and it still cuts? I think this is more a case of complacency with poor tooling than a tool that still works well.
LOL, I sharpened many saws when I was a carpenter.. If you have the right hook on teeth they will cut and have a much different sound on the forward stroke. Today's saws the teeth are almost straight up with little or no hook.
@@wortheffort I love your work. Enjoyed your video. But the tools you used sell for close to $400 at Lee Valley. I'll see what I can find for a DYI vise.
Great tutorial learned a great deal about process of sharpening. I need to get to work!!
For sawing 1/2" wide, 10" long pieces of 3/4" thick walnut, what size back saw please, and pistol grip or straight handle? Thanks.
In the past I would buy a new back saw when the one I was using cut noticeably slower, so I have three inexpensive Stanley saws in varying stages of dullness, two that are just laying there unused. Using your sharpening video as a guide, I recently sharpened the one I have been using for many years, (I don't remember exactly how long I have had it), and the results were amazing! It cut so much better and faster, while producing a straighter cut and thinner kerf.
They dull so slow you don't notice how far gone they've gotten until you sharpen them.
Funny enough I actually saw Shannon Rogers' video earlier today before seeing this. I like Shannon, he's a good teacher and I did purchase his first semester hand tool school so I hope no one takes this the wrong way, but he often seems to make excuses or find reasons to go with the most expensive tools on the market.
Shawn, I want to thank you so much for your latest series. My woodworking seems to go in fits and starts because of life but one thing that bothers me is that if people see too many boutique tools they'll get discouraged by the price of entry into the craft. Of course cheap tools can be too far in the other direction but it's nice seeing someone try to go get into the middle ground.
I'm loving the new series and I'm considering using your box joints for a wall hung chest. Very well done!
Do it, and use yesterdays video for the shelves.
I know this video is a good few years old now, but can you remember the size saw file you used to do the sharpening? Many thanks.
Could we get another video on turning oval handled plz
crown saw?what size file did you use to sharpen your
I finally followed out what more exciting than watching paint DRY. Watch a saw being sharpened. lol
I watched every minute and and grateful for you teaching methods. ALWAYS WORTH MY TIME
but paint drying doesn't screech like a file.
Paul Sellers allows as how the sharpen-ability of a saw determines whether it's worth buying. Apparently, some saws are disposable. It seems I can buy a $20 saw and then buy lots of equipment to make it right. And if I buy a $250 Cosman saw, I'd still need the equipment to keep it right. Just how much would I need to spend on the equipment?
You didn’t listen well to with Paul or I. Hardened teeth are designed not to be sharpened at expense of staying sharp much longer. A $3 file, 2x4 to squeeze the blade and clamps to do the squeezing is all need.
You can even sharpen those hardened ones with a 5-10 dollar file (diamond needle or 6 inch triangle depending on the tooth size.)
It won't come out as nice, but it will be more than plenty sharp enough to cut with.
You don't need hundreds in gizmos, and trinkets for sharpening a saw.
You don't even need workholding to hold your saw.
Just a file, and something to brace against (your workbench edge.)
Shannon Rogers is a fantastic teacher as well. It is great to see you doing a collaboration with him.
yep
What brand is the $20 saw
Great video. I think you need to grease your vice screw to fix this squeaking noise 😂...on my way to the sharpening station...
and deny the audience the cringe factor.... never.
@@wortheffort 😂
Years ago, I started out with an even cheaper version of this saw, the one with a steel back instead of brass. I'm not sure if they make that version anymore. Much like you, I sharpened it at some point (can't seem to find a blog post saying when), and after that, it was great. I made a lot of stuff with it and never had a problem. I stopped using it only because I made a new saw to replace it.
Hope ya gave it away.
@@wortheffort I did give it away, but wouldn't have felt bad about selling it.
Man, you have a beautiful workshop.
Hello, Mr. Graham;
*That's* what I'm talking about!
Thank you so much for this!
I just found it & I'm excited to learn this.
I'll find or buy a cheapo on amazon & following your excellent example I'll tune it.
Then I can learn to use it.
Then I'll have a 'good' dovetail saw w/out spending $200-$300.
Sounds like a plan.
No I need to watch your video, "Making Panel Saws".
Keep it up, pal, & I'll have to subscribe.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
wow, I'm thinking about how much time tuning up my saws would save me now.
and reduce frustration too!
Hello!How many goudonov kept the file.
I don't understand.
This is a pull saw. I think Boris Godunov would be a PUSHkin saw.
link to buy 20$ saw?
This one was a Crown. Find them everywhere. It was only an example. Lots others in different makers/categories out there.
@@wortheffort Thank You
Well, I’m finally getting around to making a better workbench for myself. So after that gets done hopefully I can start collecting a few better tools. This should allow me to save a good bit of money! Thanks dude!
Get to work dude.
wortheffort got the workbench done except for placement and leveling! Less than $100 in materials.
Now mess it up using it.
Hacksaw with a 14 or so tooth blade will work in a pinch. Tighten it up and go for it. Won’t clear the dust as quickly, but if you are really in a money bind, it will cut. Too much kerf? Diamond stone/ India stone sides to thin the thickness of the blade. They are hardened more than a custom blade, so you probably won’t need to replace for ten thousand dovetails or so. Softwood would probably be 10/12 tpi for a quicker cut. The masters of the past didn’t have what we have available, and look at what they did.
Hey man love your show I learn something every video. A quick question do you yourself run a school or have an apprenticeship. Woodworking is my passion.
Thanks, not anymore.
Now I have to go out and sharpen MY cheap back saw in the PM heat. Great video.
do it.
Love the education ... still want one of your mallets!!!
Won't be harvesting this year, takes up to a year after harvesting to make them. Dunno how many times I need to say this.
wortheffort Thank you ...
Okay, so Shannon doesn't like the gent's saw, Rex Krueger and James Wright seem to think that it's only any good for throwing in the trash. And yet, you have the Veritas and have used it for 10+ years. Why? For me, the gent's saw just seems the correct one for the tiny, thin stock I am working on. I don't own one yet. My only backsaw is a cheap Spears & Jackson tenon saw. Just wondering why the gent's saw is good in your eyes.
Because it works. Kids seem to use it more naturally too. Pull saws use a straight handle. I use both but for detail joinery I reach for that gent.
@@wortheffort Thanks! I appreciate the response. It makes sense.
Looking forward to see the out come now!
Uh, not sure what your saying here. It's still a saw....
That's no longer a $20 saw once you've spent a bunch of your time on fixing it up :) Nice video - thanks for sharing.
Well when you have more time than money....
Sean, you da man!
who da man?
wortheffort you da man!
I am curious if you ever tried a Japanese style saw, like this?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HYVW78L
It costs under $30, has replaceable blades for about $17 and is super thin, sharp out of the box and comfortable to use. Not meant to be sharpened (but probably could be) and is, of course, a pull saw as Japanese saws are. As a newbie in dove tails, I tried classical inexpensive dove tail saw and had a horrible result (I did not sharpen it), but when I tried this Japanese saw I was blown away at how well the actual sawing part of the dove tailing went. I still need a lot of practice with other dove tailing aspects, but the saw aspect is SOLVED for me. Was wondering if you could review one of these. They are very inexpensive and I was very impressed.
Vladimir Ferdman the difference between a back/pull saw and a back/push saw is the body mechanics for each - the way you have to keep your body aligned for each to be efficient; I’m still learning all this stuff also...
That is covered in my other sawing videos.
Was watching Rob Cosman last night and this popped into my recs. Probably watched a Cosman dovetail maybe 10 years ago and watching your utilitarian dovetail I think I finally get it. And the most important thing? The saw! Think I'd have to use a little saw for marking and a fancy scribe like Rob does though 😎
No need. All it takes is sawing next to a line. You can color in the lines so you can saw to a line.
@@wortheffort cheers man! 🙌
Amazing. $20 saw. I totally need to sharpen my saws now...
Get after it.
So, you can get a Japanese saw that's what you should be asking and trying A lot of people want to go to it. Try it out..
Sir.Tony Blair jr see in description my demystified video why I much prefer push.
I think I need to get one of those vice screw squeals. Shannon's got one too so it's a must have. ;)
trademarked.....
Thanks for sharing that
Quite an eye opener that .
Thanks
Thank you so much for this.
Now go sharpen and saw something.
I think this goes for alot of cheaper tools. If you dont have the money, you'll have to spend some time tuning.
money vs time.... the perpetual conundrum.
Right!
Thanks. It's the user not the tools that makes the difference. Now I need to sharpen my saw .
A $6.00 utility knife would cut as well as, if not better than, your $100 Buck knife. People who do quality work often value using quality tools for many of the same reasons.
No SMUUCH today. LOL
No Smutz for you.
finally I have the proper spelling lol thanks
I can't get comfortable with a straight handle
$20 saw. How much for the saw stand and saw sharpening tools?
You mean a 2x4 and file?
@@wortheffort do you not need the whole jig, can you get as good a result freehand? Appreciate if you could show a grinder jig for chisels. The veritas one is nice but costs more than my grinder 🤣
Your vise screw needs some wax! Cool video
And deny you the squeal? Never!
After watching this video, I have come to the inescapable conclusion that all om saws desperately need sharpening. Guess I better get to work!
Get after it.
I have one of those $20 saws. Afraid to go look at it, probably will make me ashamed.
sharpen and go.
Todays saws are cut with a laser and they are for shit. they cut backwards about the same as forward. I can tell by the sound. I have a similar saw I bought in 1967 and never sharpened it and still use it.
These were stamped. Likely use same machine for all expecting customers to sharpen. Kinda like it was 60 years ago. No tools actually came sharp back then.
So you bought a saw over 50 years ago, have never sharpened it, and it still cuts?
I think this is more a case of complacency with poor tooling than a tool that still works well.
LOL, I sharpened many saws when I was a carpenter.. If you have the right hook on teeth they will cut and have a much different sound on the forward stroke. Today's saws the teeth are almost straight up with little or no hook.
Audio is painful
And all it takes is $400 worth of sharpening tools.
That’s an excuse not to try. A 2x4 pinch vise and a file is all you need. That ain’t $400 and what you saw in video wasn’t even close to $400.
@@wortheffort I love your work. Enjoyed your video. But the tools you used sell for close to $400 at Lee Valley. I'll see what I can find for a DYI vise.
DYI vise ruclips.net/video/q6hoEYIa4Wk/видео.html
That vise is $200-250 and I told you a pinch vise made of 2x4's ($4) could be used. Files are a buck or so a piece....
that's a pinch vise.....