What I really love about Mr. Sellers videos is that he always focuses on the skill building, and not necessarily the quality of the tool. I bought some super cheap chisels and got them to slice wood like it is butter. Admitted that the edge stayed sharp for a shorter duration (and hence cheap I guess), but I knew exactly what to do to get it back to a good state. Thank you Mr. Sellers!
Same here, first chisels I bought were a set, IIRC 8, 12, 16 and 20mm, cost me about 10-15 euros (about the same in $), awful plastic handles. But they are good when sharpened. I tend to strop those whenever I pick one of them up. I'm no metallurgist so I got no clue what's "wrong" with the steel but they're very hard to sharpen BUT they also don't keep sharp long, like you said.
I'm not sure if Paul actually realises how good he is. A great woodworker and teacher, of course...but the immaculate glue spreading on the plywood took it to another level. A joy to watch!
I made mine many years ago after seeing Paul’s original sharpening system where he routed the blocks into the board. I added the strop at 90 degrees on mine. Many years later it’s still going strong. Thank you Paul. Rather than the cleat I’ve got 4 brads cut off cut off about 1mm from the base, it sticks on and wooden surface, this is how I was taught as an apprentice in the mid 70’s.
My sharpening of chisels went to a whole different level after using Paul's method, the last part of polishing the back on the wood itself was another dimension, literally the chiselled felt like silk after using a sharp tool,thanks again Paul
have built his previous one with some good dmt stones, had the 3 of them just sitting loose before. Wow once you have them setup in a way where its easy to get them all out and stable at once and once you learn to free hand sharpen. Its a game changer, so quick and easy now i sharpen anytime i feel it could be helpful and do not try to continue on with a dull blade since sharpening would take more time then i want.
very good. I first came across these on an old post on Pauls blog a while back, right when i was beginning and worrying about the cost of sharpening equipment vs the cost of my very basic tool kit. So I got some of these and they worked brilliantly and still do. I have got other stones now (which were a gift), they are longer which i prefer. But these do work, work well and are a fantastic and economical way in to sharpening.
Built something v. similar after seeing the version with the thicker plates. They weren’t available at the time, so went with the thin cheap plates. 5 years on, with a lot of ‘hobby’ use they are still doing the job. I suspect I will not not to replace for years yet, if ever.
I bought cheap thin diamond plates (200, 600 and 1000) for ~30euros some years ago, glued them to piece of plexiglass, still going strong. But last week I got my first DMT plate (green one, 1200ish), damn it is good, a bit narrow for my taste but I can still sharpen my plane irons on that. 'Traded' one of my handmade boxes for it. My mate wanted a box, made it, asked how much I want for it, "Nah I don't want money straight, order me this sharpening plate instead". Good deal, I think.
Was wondering before watching what you have in mind to make another one on your sharpening method. Great addition to the existent. We can see what is important in sharpening. I've made an habit to go to each stone. I guess in fear that I miss something. Now I've fully understand the process. The flip of the leather board is brilliant. Didn't know we needed a harder surface for the back. Thanks for sharing your passion and knowledge!
Lovely. Narex has a couple of sets of four chisels each with plastic handles for just about 20-25 euros - with the same steel hardened as the more expensive mid priced wood handle which cost about 30-40 euros each.
Hi Paul. Can you please give a hint as to WHERE you bought those diamond sharpening plates and buffing compound? I'd like to try your system using the same equipment. Thanks.
Paul, thanks a lot, I've bought a similar set 3 a few weeks ago, cheap. I was going to make a Paul Seller's sharpening station from your old video, but this is just for me, perfect timing.
Thanks Paul. One question, when you buy inexpensive chisels, don’t you have to spend a long time flattening the flat side first? Also, do you need to create a secondary bevel?
Good questions! In most cases, I have found the backs to be slightly hollow and this is perfect because when you flip them the abrasive develops a flat right behind the back, which is exactly where you want it. YOU DO NOT NEED A FLAT BACK! No matter what anyone tells you, and I include any and all gurus who'll have you jumping through all kinds of hoops here, it's silly and ridiculous, but you do need to initiate this face a little and make sure the flat right behind the edge goes right up to the edge and then polish it out as you did on the bevel..
As per Mr Seller’s original recommendation I’ve been using US windshield washer fluid for quite a while. I believe it is water with an added liquid that helps it evaporate, a little bit of detergent, and some anti-rust additive. It works well. More knowledgeable persons may feel free to correct me - as if they ever need encouragement!
Valid question, can offer my opinion: No they're not too small, I just bought DMT bench stone that is 2 x 6 inches, I can still sharpen plane irons on that, all though I gotta angle the iron a bit sideways but it does not affect the outcome. Of course I prefer wider plates, but I can live with smaller ones too (it was cheapish for DMT, ~70euros).
Not too small. And remember that though using a honing guide does restrict the length of your stroke and thereby the length of the plates, you can work the guide backwards and so use the whole length of the plates.
Hi @Paul. I don't understand why in this video you create a 30° bevel and in another relatively recent video you sharpen with a single bevel. Also in the other video I thought I understood that it was not necessary to create a secondary bevel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and sorry if there are mistakes as I used a translator.
It is not but secondary bevel is created when you are lazy to sharpen whole surface.Its much easier to sharpen 5mm of steel than to reprofile the whole chisle.
@@zumbazumba1 , thank you very much for your response. I understand what you comment and the benefit of sharpening 5mm of steel. What I don't know is the time in which those 5mm grow and become the full profile so it will be more and more steel to remove. Watching Paul's previous videos, I think the need to use a guide diminishes the benefit of sharpening less steel. I guess the way Paul wants to teach us, is to get a good sharpening by hand in which the complete profile is sharpened without a guide and of course without electric machinery. I don't know if I'm on the right track but it seems like a fun topic to discuss.
The new chisel has an existing bevel of 25º. In my sharpening method, I start at 30º and in the push forward the hands drop slightly, so ultimately the bevel becomes a quarter ellipse; in other words, it's a macro camber. It looks like a second bevel starting out, but there is no need to waste steel to get the macro camber. After a few sharpenings you will end up there, but only if you freehand sharpen and do not use a honing guide.
How interesting @@Paul.Sellers, thank you very much for your response. I am just starting in this woodworking world and from the beginning I want to give the utmost importance to manual skills. Your videos and explanations help us not to get lost along the way. I think that following your steps from other videos my chisels have a correct shape and sharpening. I am not 100% sure because of lack of experience, but I enjoy the whole process. Although I give them importance, I am not obsessed with the angle or other parameters, but I enjoy the opinion of experienced people. Greetings and may we continue to enjoy this beautiful craft.
Hi Paul, Have you tested this brand long term? I had a plate from Trend - 400/1200 grit I think. I wore out the 400 side in less than two years of weekend only use to the point where it barely cuts.
@@Paul.SellersI understand we don’t want to advertise, but what price range are these plates in? Wondering if $60 is what one plate should cost or if all three can be had for less
Cheap diamond stones are better than expensive composite artificial stonws? Like tyrolit or carborundun ones? Tyrolit are arround 20usd for a 2faces one 400/1200 and 3 diamond are arround 30 from 600/1200/3000
Sometimes I wonder which chisels I should take to the construction site, a very hostile site. Some cheap ones that I don't mind breaking or some HSS ones that can stand up to heavy duty work.
just take the word of 50 years experience when Paul says use contact cement, use contact cement. It is what counter tops and flooring are glued with, it will hold. As far as hot glue, it has limited life span and really doesn't hold together long, Leather workers use contact cement....
@@elund408Wow, as a furniture conservator it's news to me that hide glue has a limited life span and doesn't hold together long. The piece I'm working on now is dated 1807, a leather faced slant top writing desk. All of it's case joints are still solidly glued with hide glue. The marquetry I'm repairing on it's side aprons is still solidly attached with hide glue too, but a little heat and moisture and I can remove the damaged veneers easily. The original leather writing surface is still intact and attached with, wait for it... hide glue. Hot melt glue and hot hide glue are not at all even remotely close to the same thing.
What would be the advantage of the epoxy? All that business with the messy mixing, more trash to throw away, more difficult to spread thin and flat. It might be harder under the plate, I suppose.
Would there be an issue with shavings from each grit sized plate combining with one another whilst sharpening ? Coud you have a routered border separating each grade to catch any shavings and with them being raised this too may help. It may be ott but just a suggestion for mark2 ?
Shavings... Do you mean the grit particles in the slurry from using each plate? I'd wipe the gunk on the chisel off before moving to the next grit. But Paul doesn't do that here. I think I still will wipe them off before moving on. But I also suspect Paul will weigh in with a comment at some point.
@@jimweisgram9185 I think this video is mainly about SETTING of a sharpening system, rather than the actual sharpening process. He has videos on sharpening process, which you might already have seen. I am not a woodworker, though I have watched his videos, but it goes without saying that dirt has to be removed in any cleaning process.
Not at all. The particles on each plate will not transfer by any noticeable amount. The fluid used is not lubrication, as most people say it is. It is to 'float off' the particles to the edge of the plates. At the end of sharpening, you will wipe off all the moisture and take the particles with the cloth or paper towel. It's not at all necessary to wipe between plate changes.
I had an ummmmm disagreement with a chap on a whittling group about the strop, he insisted that the strop just polished a blade, and did not remove any metal 🤦♂ after a few comments I just gave up lol Great video, and I like how compact that board is
I think first he mainly introduced the sandpaper process. Now, in his opinion diamond plates are cheaper even for the absolute beginners. By absolute I mean those who know almost nothing about woodworking. Mr Paul wants simple techniques to be continued, and for that someone has to BEGIN... Otherwise it would be...'Once upon a time......'
@@ratansharma951 I don't disagree, what I'm talking about is that if this was uploaded 1 week ago, I could have done this instead of buying all the crap I got for sharpening...
Guys you worry too much about how long will a 10$ plate last.Your pathetic 40-50 HRC chisels are nothing compared to tungsten carbide lathe insert with its magnificent hardness of 60HRC . And yet cheap lapping 6" disk made the same way as these plates sharpens those and HSS tools(drills ,blanks with 5% cobalt,you name it,it will sharpen it) for 2 years on a cheap bench grinder(i made a back plate out of aluminum for grinder,that was biggest expense,and a plywood table.). It paid off 10x ,i made enough money to buy 10 more and it costs less than expensive diamond wheel of famous manufacturer. And yet you worry that you will wear a 10$ plate? What are you trying to do ? Leave it as a legacy to your grand grand grand children?
Whattamatter, punkin? Is someone not getting enough attention today? Well let's fix that RIGHT UP! Just point the way to all of YOUR content showing YOUR mastery of the craft and YOUR selfless dedication to helping others.... I'll just sit here and wait for you to show me your global footprint.....
Well, that will be some length of time, so that's great. Mine are ten years old in use and still cut steel very well. I think rephrasing your word choice would work well if you care t: Instead of using the word "cheap", perhaps try inexpensive
Cheap diamond plates and claim they last and have the nerve to say they will cost more. Paul Sellers has already made hand tools go up in value.....but these cheap Chinese diamond plates? Joke is on us if they do cost more after he promotes them
You have hit the nail on the head, though I am not pointing this towards Mr Paul Sellers. I have seen tools cost rise exorbitantly after promotion, and to boot the quality comes DOWN. Doubled loss for customers!
I have used such plates for almost a decade and have only seen the quality improve through the years. I think it is good to guard against our prejudices when we express ourselves. In a year or two, I will buy some more and make sure they retain their quality. The only plates I have ever seen flake off have been High-cost diamond pattern versions, which never lasted.
Kinda sad when someone consumes valuable, FREE online info, yet has nothing but rude comments for the generous providers of that info. Make your own vids, buddy. I’m grateful for the expert instruction, generously given.
He obviously said if you're a beginner...then demonstrated his technique again obviously stated you have to train yourself to do it that way. Your crustiness would better serve the community kept silently in your cranial cavity. Shamefulness and disgusting
I’ve been reading all your comments and such anger is not healthy. 1) did your momma never teach you to practice the old saying “if you don’t have something nice to say, say nothing”? 2) So what on the guide? If you were listening Mr. Paul is obviously helping newbies get started and does encourage folks to eventually do away with the guide and use the hand method. 3) Let’s move to the less expensive plates, do you remember first get started in woodworking? Could you afford top quality anything or did you have to buy affordable and eventually move up to the boutique high end models? I highly recommend you take a breath, a deep breath in through your nose. Now hold it for a long count of 5. Blow it all out through your mouth. Repeat ten times. I promise it will help lower your blood pressure, just focus on your breathing. If you don’t like this method of relaxation breathing go look at videos on 4 square breathing. I learned my way back in the late ‘70’s. I know I’m defending Mr. Paul, who doesn’t need me to do that as he’s quite adept at the English language. I felt compelled to because since I experienced a ruptured aneurysm 11 years ago, I’ve had to relearn how to do almost everything. I found Mr. Paul and he’s been helping me to relearn. He doesn’t know how instrumental he has been in my recovery and unfortunately I may never have the pleasure of thanking him in person. His videos are encouraging, his blogs are always positive, even when he gets aggravated. I have the luxury of re-watching him as many times as my damaged brain needs. He doesn’t care and it costs me nothing. Being able to start back using my old hand tools and not just staring at them is priceless. They help my neurotransmitters reconnect their pathways. He and his crew are in my daily thanks to God talks right along with the medical team who worked so hard to save my life for 26 days in NSICU.
He introduced it as an option for absolute beginners. Learning to sharpen can be a long and frustrating journey and a honing guide can be a useful tool for beginners who just want to get on with their woodworking. He then removed the honing guide and said that he recommends that you eventually learn to sharpen freehand, as it is faster. I doubt Stanley paid him to promote their honing guide while also saying that he doesn't care for the other 2 items in the package lol. Why are you so determined to find fault in this video?
This is what your channel has come to. You don't use these stones....and I'm sure the price will go up. Long time subscriber and I've built your original diamond sharpening set up. With the stones you use.Or do you? Eze Lap. Folks, buy sandpaper or the 3m system. Paul is now doing I don't know what!!! Are these stones tested like you claim in many blogs
Why the sudden lack of trust? Has Paul led you astray before? Yeah - he uses EZLap on older versions. They're expensive. But they're just steel with industrial diamond adhered to them. What makes you think these would be any less robust? The cost saving is the much thinner steel - which is why they're glued to a flat surface. Diamond is diamond. The adhesive may be lesser - but as you say, how would you test it? You want Paul to suddenly have a decade of use before suggesting a cheap tool? Have you done the maths on how much sandpaper you'd go through before the adhesive on these fails? No.
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
What I really love about Mr. Sellers videos is that he always focuses on the skill building, and not necessarily the quality of the tool. I bought some super cheap chisels and got them to slice wood like it is butter. Admitted that the edge stayed sharp for a shorter duration (and hence cheap I guess), but I knew exactly what to do to get it back to a good state. Thank you Mr. Sellers!
Same here, first chisels I bought were a set, IIRC 8, 12, 16 and 20mm, cost me about 10-15 euros (about the same in $), awful plastic handles. But they are good when sharpened. I tend to strop those whenever I pick one of them up. I'm no metallurgist so I got no clue what's "wrong" with the steel but they're very hard to sharpen BUT they also don't keep sharp long, like you said.
Glad to see Mr. Sellers back again.
I'm not sure if Paul actually realises how good he is. A great woodworker and teacher, of course...but the immaculate glue spreading on the plywood took it to another level. A joy to watch!
I made mine many years ago after seeing Paul’s original sharpening system where he routed the blocks into the board.
I added the strop at 90 degrees on mine.
Many years later it’s still going strong.
Thank you Paul.
Rather than the cleat I’ve got 4 brads cut off cut off about 1mm from the base, it sticks on and wooden surface, this is how I was taught as an apprentice in the mid 70’s.
My sharpening of chisels went to a whole different level after using Paul's method, the last part of polishing the back on the wood itself was another dimension, literally the chiselled felt like silk after using a sharp tool,thanks again Paul
Same.
have built his previous one with some good dmt stones, had the 3 of them just sitting loose before. Wow once you have them setup in a way where its easy to get them all out and stable at once and once you learn to free hand sharpen. Its a game changer, so quick and easy now i sharpen anytime i feel it could be helpful and do not try to continue on with a dull blade since sharpening would take more time then i want.
The way you make this so simple is genius
It's so great to have you back!!
This is great timing. This was on my list of shop projects! Thank you👍🏽
Love the simplicity and the clean profile!!!!?
Best teacher I wish I could meet him ❤❤❤❤
Bendiciones maestro Paul desde Piriapolis Uruguay 🇺🇾 ❤
BLIMEY!
Mr S just gets better every time.
Happy Christmas to one and all.
Cheers.
very good. I first came across these on an old post on Pauls blog a while back, right when i was beginning and worrying about the cost of sharpening equipment vs the cost of my very basic tool kit. So I got some of these and they worked brilliantly and still do. I have got other stones now (which were a gift), they are longer which i prefer. But these do work, work well and are a fantastic and economical way in to sharpening.
Built something v. similar after seeing the version with the thicker plates. They weren’t available at the time, so went with the thin cheap plates. 5 years on, with a lot of ‘hobby’ use they are still doing the job. I suspect I will not not to replace for years yet, if ever.
I bought cheap thin diamond plates (200, 600 and 1000) for ~30euros some years ago, glued them to piece of plexiglass, still going strong. But last week I got my first DMT plate (green one, 1200ish), damn it is good, a bit narrow for my taste but I can still sharpen my plane irons on that.
'Traded' one of my handmade boxes for it. My mate wanted a box, made it, asked how much I want for it, "Nah I don't want money straight, order me this sharpening plate instead". Good deal, I think.
Was wondering before watching what you have in mind to make another one on your sharpening method.
Great addition to the existent. We can see what is important in sharpening. I've made an habit to go to each stone. I guess in fear that I miss something.
Now I've fully understand the process.
The flip of the leather board is brilliant. Didn't know we needed a harder surface for the back.
Thanks for sharing your passion and knowledge!
My New Year thing is to make one of these. Always wanted one that isnt complicated and works well for most applications. I think this is that.
Thanks Paul. Brilliant as always.
Thanks Paul. I also found double sided tape work great on these plates.
I found that double sided tape didn't work great on these plates, they started falling off after a few sessions!
@@eanholt Try strong carpet tape.
Have got a shopping list of the plates ? And leather ? Thanks guys ❤
Just ordered mine. Should arrive Monday Dec. 2nd. Thank you Paul.
Which ones did you order?
Brand: SUWAJUME 3 PCS
Brilliant ❤
Lovely.
Narex has a couple of sets of four chisels each with plastic handles for just about 20-25 euros - with the same steel hardened as the more expensive mid priced wood handle which cost about 30-40 euros each.
Amazing, as always! Thanks Paul.
I like your setup for sharpening.
Thank you Paul for trying to help people who are less fortunate with money. Some other peoples comments should be kept to themselves.
Hi Paul. Can you please give a hint as to WHERE you bought those diamond sharpening plates and buffing compound? I'd like to try your system using the same equipment. Thanks.
On eBay and Amazon.
Paul, thanks a lot, I've bought a similar set 3 a few weeks ago, cheap. I was going to make a Paul Seller's sharpening station from your old video, but this is just for me, perfect timing.
Thanks Paul. One question, when you buy inexpensive chisels, don’t you have to spend a long time flattening the flat side first?
Also, do you need to create a secondary bevel?
Good questions! In most cases, I have found the backs to be slightly hollow and this is perfect because when you flip them the abrasive develops a flat right behind the back, which is exactly where you want it. YOU DO NOT NEED A FLAT BACK! No matter what anyone tells you, and I include any and all gurus who'll have you jumping through all kinds of hoops here, it's silly and ridiculous, but you do need to initiate this face a little and make sure the flat right behind the edge goes right up to the edge and then polish it out as you did on the bevel..
Where can I find the thin diamond plates?
Thanks very much Paul! Great idea! What are the dimensions of these plates?
3x8"
2.75" by about 6.5"
How is antifog glass cleaner better than, say, water? Trying to understand what type of liquids I should put on diamond stones.
As per Mr Seller’s original recommendation I’ve been using US windshield washer fluid for quite a while. I believe it is water with an added liquid that helps it evaporate, a little bit of detergent, and some anti-rust additive. It works well. More knowledgeable persons may feel free to correct me - as if they ever need encouragement!
Thank you
I'm curious the dimensions of the plates. A lot offered are 2.5x6 inches. Are they too small?
Valid question, can offer my opinion: No they're not too small, I just bought DMT bench stone that is 2 x 6 inches, I can still sharpen plane irons on that, all though I gotta angle the iron a bit sideways but it does not affect the outcome. Of course I prefer wider plates, but I can live with smaller ones too (it was cheapish for DMT, ~70euros).
Not too small. And remember that though using a honing guide does restrict the length of your stroke and thereby the length of the plates, you can work the guide backwards and so use the whole length of the plates.
What brand of diamond plates are those? I like this system.
Hi @Paul. I don't understand why in this video you create a 30° bevel and in another relatively recent video you sharpen with a single bevel. Also in the other video I thought I understood that it was not necessary to create a secondary bevel.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and sorry if there are mistakes as I used a translator.
It is not but secondary bevel is created when you are lazy to sharpen whole surface.Its much easier to sharpen 5mm of steel than to reprofile the whole chisle.
@@zumbazumba1 , thank you very much for your response.
I understand what you comment and the benefit of sharpening 5mm of steel.
What I don't know is the time in which those 5mm grow and become the full profile so it will be more and more steel to remove.
Watching Paul's previous videos, I think the need to use a guide diminishes the benefit of sharpening less steel.
I guess the way Paul wants to teach us, is to get a good sharpening by hand in which the complete profile is sharpened without a guide and of course without electric machinery.
I don't know if I'm on the right track but it seems like a fun topic to discuss.
The new chisel has an existing bevel of 25º. In my sharpening method, I start at 30º and in the push forward the hands drop slightly, so ultimately the bevel becomes a quarter ellipse; in other words, it's a macro camber. It looks like a second bevel starting out, but there is no need to waste steel to get the macro camber. After a few sharpenings you will end up there, but only if you freehand sharpen and do not use a honing guide.
I believe it’s the 30 degree bevel he is creating from the 25 degree bevel the factory produces, at least that’s what I got from it.
How interesting @@Paul.Sellers, thank you very much for your response. I am just starting in this woodworking world and from the beginning I want to give the utmost importance to manual skills. Your videos and explanations help us not to get lost along the way.
I think that following your steps from other videos my chisels have a correct shape and sharpening. I am not 100% sure because of lack of experience, but I enjoy the whole process. Although I give them importance, I am not obsessed with the angle or other parameters, but I enjoy the opinion of experienced people.
Greetings and may we continue to enjoy this beautiful craft.
Hi Paul, Have you tested this brand long term?
I had a plate from Trend - 400/1200 grit I think. I wore out the 400 side in less than two years of weekend only use to the point where it barely cuts.
Yes, these are far superior to Trend. My Trend versions with the diamond pattern flaked within three months, so never could recommend them.
Are the chisel protectors to protect the human or the edge of the chisel? I always believed it is the latter.
The edge (I think). I use those protectors on my pricey gouges and special chisels etc. On normal chisels I don't bother.
As always, great advice. Are plates like these still available? If so, where?
eBay and Amazon is where I have found them consistently.. Under £10 apiece and can be as low as £6
Thanks, Mr.Sellers. You’re at the top of my search list.
Found mine on eBay, from China.
@@Paul.SellersI understand we don’t want to advertise, but what price range are these plates in? Wondering if $60 is what one plate should cost or if all three can be had for less
Cheap diamond stones are better than expensive composite artificial stonws?
Like tyrolit or carborundun ones?
Tyrolit are arround 20usd for a 2faces one 400/1200 and 3 diamond are arround 30 from 600/1200/3000
What is the brand of the plates? Thank you
No brand name on them . Different sellers but only one Chinese maker.
who has found a good link for the diamond plates he uses?
Sometimes I wonder which chisels I should take to the construction site, a very hostile site. Some cheap ones that I don't mind breaking or some HSS ones that can stand up to heavy duty work.
I would take the cheap ones.
@@kimmosaarinen2780 Thanks for advice
Great content as always Paul! 😊
Can someone point me towards where I can buy these plates. I can’t seem to find them anywhere. The choice on Amazon is bamboozling.
There may be different sellers, but I suspect they all come from the same Chinese factory.
eBay consistently has them. They ship from China, about $7 each. They’re not branded.
Wouldn't epoxy be better for gluing down the plates? As for the strop I really like hot hide glue for leather-wood bonding.
just take the word of 50 years experience when Paul says use contact cement, use contact cement. It is what counter tops and flooring are glued with, it will hold. As far as hot glue, it has limited life span and really doesn't hold together long, Leather workers use contact cement....
@@elund408Wow, as a furniture conservator it's news to me that hide glue has a limited life span and doesn't hold together long.
The piece I'm working on now is dated 1807, a leather faced slant top writing desk. All of it's case joints are still solidly glued with hide glue. The marquetry I'm repairing on it's side aprons is still solidly attached with hide glue too, but a little heat and moisture and I can remove the damaged veneers easily.
The original leather writing surface is still intact and attached with, wait for it... hide glue.
Hot melt glue and hot hide glue are not at all even remotely close to the same thing.
@@mrfirestop415 I missed the hide, all I saw was hot.
What would be the advantage of the epoxy? All that business with the messy mixing, more trash to throw away, more difficult to spread thin and flat. It might be harder under the plate, I suppose.
Would there be an issue with shavings from each grit sized plate combining with one another whilst sharpening ? Coud you have a routered border separating each grade to catch any shavings and with them being raised this too may help. It may be ott but just a suggestion for mark2 ?
Shavings... Do you mean the grit particles in the slurry from using each plate? I'd wipe the gunk on the chisel off before moving to the next grit. But Paul doesn't do that here. I think I still will wipe them off before moving on. But I also suspect Paul will weigh in with a comment at some point.
@@jimweisgram9185 the technical term is swarf.
@@jimweisgram9185 I think this video is mainly about SETTING of a sharpening system, rather than the actual sharpening process.
He has videos on sharpening process, which you might already have seen.
I am not a woodworker, though I have watched his videos, but it goes without saying that dirt has to be removed in any cleaning process.
@@ratansharma951 This is the correct answer. This is more about how to build a solid sharpening system.
Not at all. The particles on each plate will not transfer by any noticeable amount. The fluid used is not lubrication, as most people say it is. It is to 'float off' the particles to the edge of the plates. At the end of sharpening, you will wipe off all the moisture and take the particles with the cloth or paper towel. It's not at all necessary to wipe between plate changes.
Can someone explain to me why does he sharpen it at 30 and not just keep it flat on the 25 ? it may sound like a silly question I know
A 25º cutting edge is considerably weaker than 30º so when you start chopping the edge lasts longer.
Who makes the guide?
Stanley, same as the blue handled chisels.
Is if you are left handed you would do the opposite?
Great info thanks!
anyone here know a good place to buy diamond plates? mygreathanks and blessings
eBay from China. Very cheap, good quality.
@@TheMrchuck2000 as long as i am bothering people already, if you have the link please...mygreathanks and blessings😇
❤❤❤
Is this the set?
Sorry. Couldn’t get the photo up. I’ll try again.
No need. I’ve ordered them. Thanks again.
I had an ummmmm disagreement with a chap on a whittling group about the strop, he insisted that the strop just polished a blade, and did not remove any metal 🤦♂ after a few comments I just gave up lol
Great video, and I like how compact that board is
NOOOOOOOOOOW Mr Sellers uploads this... :'("' " '
Hope all is well with you and the family, boss. o7
I think first he mainly introduced the sandpaper process. Now, in his opinion diamond plates are cheaper even for the absolute beginners.
By absolute I mean those who know almost nothing about woodworking.
Mr Paul wants simple techniques to be continued, and for that someone has to BEGIN...
Otherwise it would be...'Once upon a time......'
@@ratansharma951 I don't disagree, what I'm talking about is that if this was uploaded 1 week ago, I could have done this instead of buying all the crap I got for sharpening...
@@chainreaction8977I'm afraid you'll have to evolve your OWN way of sharpening based on your experiences rather than following someone else.
Guys you worry too much about how long will a 10$ plate last.Your pathetic 40-50 HRC chisels are nothing compared to tungsten carbide lathe insert with its magnificent hardness of 60HRC . And yet cheap lapping 6" disk made the same way as these plates sharpens those and HSS tools(drills ,blanks with 5% cobalt,you name it,it will sharpen it) for 2 years on a cheap bench grinder(i made a back plate out of aluminum for grinder,that was biggest expense,and a plywood table.).
It paid off 10x ,i made enough money to buy 10 more and it costs less than expensive diamond wheel of famous manufacturer.
And yet you worry that you will wear a 10$ plate? What are you trying to do ? Leave it as a legacy to your grand grand grand children?
get you cooking the rest of your woodworking life.........probably.....
Troll ^^^
Whattamatter, punkin? Is someone not getting enough attention today? Well let's fix that RIGHT UP!
Just point the way to all of YOUR content showing YOUR mastery of the craft and YOUR selfless dedication to helping others....
I'll just sit here and wait for you to show me your global footprint.....
The strop will last longer than these cheap diamond stones that Paul is introducing
Well, that will be some length of time, so that's great. Mine are ten years old in use and still cut steel very well. I think rephrasing your word choice would work well if you care t: Instead of using the word "cheap", perhaps try inexpensive
Troll ^^^
Mine are great FIVE years later. But you’re the expert, buddy.
Only thing from this mess. Is the glass cleaner.
Did yer dog die?
Troll ^^^
Cheap diamond plates and claim they last and have the nerve to say they will cost more. Paul Sellers has already made hand tools go up in value.....but these cheap Chinese diamond plates? Joke is on us if they do cost more after he promotes them
You have hit the nail on the head, though I am not pointing this towards Mr Paul Sellers.
I have seen tools cost rise exorbitantly after promotion, and to boot the quality comes DOWN.
Doubled loss for customers!
I have used such plates for almost a decade and have only seen the quality improve through the years. I think it is good to guard against our prejudices when we express ourselves. In a year or two, I will buy some more and make sure they retain their quality. The only plates I have ever seen flake off have been High-cost diamond pattern versions, which never lasted.
Retire......Paul
Get outta here
Somebody forgot took his medicine this morning, I think. You seem a bit unhinged.
Troll.
Kinda sad when someone consumes valuable, FREE online info, yet has nothing but rude comments for the generous providers of that info. Make your own vids, buddy. I’m grateful for the expert instruction, generously given.
He used a guide people! I learnt to sharpen from him years ago free hand. He now uses a guide. Sell out
It didn't take long for him to take it off.
He obviously said if you're a beginner...then demonstrated his technique again obviously stated you have to train yourself to do it that way.
Your crustiness would better serve the community kept silently in your cranial cavity. Shamefulness and disgusting
@@jimweisgram9185But why did he take it up at all? Was this a promotion?
I’ve been reading all your comments and such anger is not healthy. 1) did your momma never teach you to practice the old saying “if you don’t have something nice to say, say nothing”? 2) So what on the guide? If you were listening Mr. Paul is obviously helping newbies get started and does encourage folks to eventually do away with the guide and use the hand method. 3) Let’s move to the less expensive plates, do you remember first get started in woodworking? Could you afford top quality anything or did you have to buy affordable and eventually move up to the boutique high end models?
I highly recommend you take a breath, a deep breath in through your nose. Now hold it for a long count of 5. Blow it all out through your mouth. Repeat ten times. I promise it will help lower your blood pressure, just focus on your breathing. If you don’t like this method of relaxation breathing go look at videos on 4 square breathing. I learned my way back in the late ‘70’s.
I know I’m defending Mr. Paul, who doesn’t need me to do that as he’s quite adept at the English language. I felt compelled to because since I experienced a ruptured aneurysm 11 years ago, I’ve had to relearn how to do almost everything. I found Mr. Paul and he’s been helping me to relearn. He doesn’t know how instrumental he has been in my recovery and unfortunately I may never have the pleasure of thanking him in person. His videos are encouraging, his blogs are always positive, even when he gets aggravated. I have the luxury of re-watching him as many times as my damaged brain needs. He doesn’t care and it costs me nothing. Being able to start back using my old hand tools and not just staring at them is priceless. They help my neurotransmitters reconnect their pathways. He and his crew are in my daily thanks to God talks right along with the medical team who worked so hard to save my life for 26 days in NSICU.
He introduced it as an option for absolute beginners. Learning to sharpen can be a long and frustrating journey and a honing guide can be a useful tool for beginners who just want to get on with their woodworking. He then removed the honing guide and said that he recommends that you eventually learn to sharpen freehand, as it is faster. I doubt Stanley paid him to promote their honing guide while also saying that he doesn't care for the other 2 items in the package lol. Why are you so determined to find fault in this video?
This is what your channel has come to. You don't use these stones....and I'm sure the price will go up. Long time subscriber and I've built your original diamond sharpening set up. With the stones you use.Or do you? Eze Lap. Folks, buy sandpaper or the 3m system. Paul is now doing I don't know what!!! Are these stones tested like you claim in many blogs
Why the sudden lack of trust? Has Paul led you astray before? Yeah - he uses EZLap on older versions. They're expensive. But they're just steel with industrial diamond adhered to them. What makes you think these would be any less robust? The cost saving is the much thinner steel - which is why they're glued to a flat surface. Diamond is diamond. The adhesive may be lesser - but as you say, how would you test it? You want Paul to suddenly have a decade of use before suggesting a cheap tool? Have you done the maths on how much sandpaper you'd go through before the adhesive on these fails? No.
@@mattwilcoxuk"diamond is diamond" ... Now there will be a discussion over mono and poly crystalline diamonds.
@@jimweisgram9185"they're just steel with industrial diamond adhered to them"You can argue also if nickle plating or vaacum brazing is better too.
Mine cost about $5 each, five years ago. They’re great.
@@mattwilcoxukthey’re bonded to the thin plate exactly like the thick ones.