LEXUS ES300 / TOYOTA V6 COOLANT BYPASS HOSE & KNOCK SENSORS - REASSEMBLE TOP OF ENGINE
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Part 13 of a video series. Typical install of BYPASS HOSE AND KNOCK SENSORS for Toyota engines. We are installing on a 3.0l V6. ENJOY THE FINAL ENGINE ASSEMBLY.
BYPASS Coolant hose: ACDELCO 14905S
Knock sensor harness: SKP SKJ72002
Knock sensors: Lexus 89615-12040 or NTK ID0166 or BECK/ARNLEY 1581648
All in one gasket set: FEL-PRO MS92766
Reference the videos below on how we got to this point of the build.
Part 12: • LEXUS ES300 / TOYOTA S...
Part 11: • LEXUS ES300 / TOYOTA V...
Part 10: • LEXUS ES300 / TOYOTA F...
Part: 9: • LEXUS ES300 / TOYOTA V...
Part 8: • LEXUS ES300 / TOYOTA F...
Part 7: • LEXUS ES300 / TOYOTA V...
Part 6: • LEXUS ES300 / TOYOTA V...
Just bought a 00 ES300 that suddenly flashed the P code for this. This video is exactly what I was looking for- recommended parts, opinions based on experience. Thank you very much! I’m now a new follower! 💯🎯
One of the best videos regarding replacement of a bypass coolant hose.
Best video I've seen for replacing Lexus Knock Sensors. Had mine replaced 3 months ago. Now I can just do it myself 😉 going to replace the coolant bypass hose because I think that it exactly where the small leak is coming from and the wiring harness.
I just did this job on my Camry, thanks for the video. The only tip I would add is when putting the intake back on, screw on that back ground strap BEFORE you put the intake back on. I wish I had done that.
You made this look too easy. I'm doing mine right now, but my lower manifold is stuck so I'm taking a break while it soaks in penetrating oil. Great video!!!
Are bolts stuck or just the manifold? Bolts should come out easy, the manifold you can pry up.
@@nicklldoit it was the lower manifold itself, after my break it came off with no problem.....thanks Nick
Great work! Folks, if you're paying $1000+ just to have the knock sensors replaced, more than likely the vehicle is old enough that replacing that coolant bypass hose is a good idea. That should then last the rest of the vehicles life. For God's sake replace the wiring harness for the knock sensors too. 15+ years of cooking on the oven. Use only Toyota parts when it comes to certain things. Replace the rear spark plugs while there's room to do so.
Exactly the point
@@nicklldoit Have taken your advice and replaced the back Spark plugs.. found the first one totally bathed in oil, hope it was just the gasket that failed - put a new gasket in place, will be Praying to the Mechanics Gods for good fortune on this one :)
REALLY GREAT VIDEO, JUST FINISHING UP THIS TASK AND ALL THE BELLS AND WHISTLES, THANK YOU.
Sweet!
Very helpful video have to do the same on my 2000 es300 thanks a lot.
Excellent video, sir. Thank you so much. How durable are those bypass hoses on the Lexus engines or how often should it be replaced. My guess is that they're very durable because there's so much work involved to replace it.
Thanks again!
@@johnthompson3377 those hoses are actually extremely durable, I would say close to 20 years or around 160k miles.
Thank you so much!!
@@johnthompson3377 no problem
Just replaced mine this past weekend but I should’ve done the knock sensors and other things while i had it open
Once you go thru it the first time, the second time is easier.
This is being done to my 2006 Toyota Sienna the same day this video popped up. Google is listening...
More than you know, scary.
Nice vid! I have a 2000 toyota solara that has this issue! Guess I'll be doing it! Thanks 👍
Good luck, you'll get it done.
@@nicklldoit yeah I did the timing belt, water pump, Tstat, and seals already. Still valve cover gaskets to go as well
@@jamesguralski5156 awesome, you are getting it all done.
Nice work!! but I would have removed the coolant bypass plate under the intake and replaced or resealed. I've done a good number of them where they leak antifreeze at the drivers side rear of the plate. I will be doing this exact job on 02 Toyota Avalon this week.
Interesting, I have yet to have that issue. They will blow the seal if you have a extreme overheating issue. But, the bypass hose usually blows first. It's the hottest portion of this cooling system. But good point, with the ages of these engines now. I would agree to reseal that portion.
Great video, thankyou. I am currently doing this job except I also cleaned and resealed the valley plate assembly as well. Have you had any issues with the rtv around the water jacket outlets? Also, what are you using to clean the aluminum? I have been using nylon wheel brush for power drill.
Glad the video helped, RTV around the water jackets is for extra support. If you have any pitting in the aluminum, RTV is a must. For cleaning the aluminum for gasket areas I use a razor blade or a rubber type eraser on a drill.
@Doomzdayxx They sell plastic razor blades that work great at removing old gasket material. Wet the gasket material with a solvent to soften it up. Using a metal razor blade, you run a chance of scratching, nicking, or maybe even gouging the soft aluminum surface. You can use a metal razor blade but be extra careful. With the plastic razor blades, they do a great job and you don't have to be careful.
Btw..... it's nice and clean!!!
could you tell me which video you are referring to when it comes to removing wire harnesses and the fuel injector? about to try and replace the bypass hose soon
ruclips.net/video/kK80fj63rXI/видео.html
@@nicklldoit thanks so much man your videos have been extremely helpful
What happens if you do not drain fluid prior to replacing the coolant bypass hose?
You only need to drain probably one half gallon of coolant because you are working on the top of the engine. If you don't drain some it will just spill all over the top of the engine. Just rinse off with water gently without spraying all over the electrical connectors and alternator.
Bad things happen
Dealing with this problem right now
Car overheated and a leak wasn't immediately apparent. Replace thermostat and went to fill up coolant and it started dropping all over the place. It can make you think the block is busted. Don't know why they didn't make it a metal hose being next to all that heat.
Same here, it's a really bad idea. When it does leak it appears to spill over the back right side of the engine. Plus it has bend in the hose pointed up meaning it's a high point to collect heat.
@@nicklldoit ruclips.net/video/IBDSsZDQXKA/видео.html
I don't think it's such a bad idea to make this bypass conduit a rubber hose. The hose will last a very long time, even in that location. I guess the alternative would be to make the conduit aluminum, which would require 2 gaskets, which would be more likely to leak than a hose.
@@gltwn Gaskets with a light coat of the appropriate RTV on clean flat smooth mating surfaces is much better for longevity.
How did you clean the surfaces? A little heat on the hoses might help them come off. Of course be careful not to torch other wire and hoses etc.
Cans and cans of brake cleaner and small wire brushes plus rolls of shop towels.
Ok. Thanks. I think berrymans is a great solvent.
They have plastic razor blades that work great at removing old gasket material when you use them together with a solvent to soften the old gasket.
Did you drain the coolant? A bunch of coolant leaked when loosening the 2nd part of the intake. Looks like coolant got in one of the holes and now it wont start 🙃
Some coolant needs to be drained, about a gallon or so. If coolant got into any ports, it needs to be blown out. Also, make sure your knock sensors are all plugged in and that the harness is in good shape and plugged in as well.
I see the coolant in the one port. Didnt drain any before i started so I think that caused the issue. How can i blow it out of the one port? I only have a shop vac to vacuum it out but no air compressor. I only replaced the sensors with two oem ones but not the harness. Looks to be in good shape
@@dustinurbaczek7800 vacuum it out is fine, I would use a smaller hose taped to the vac nozzle.
vacuumed it all out and still nothing. what a bummer. guess ill take it off a third time. Cranks and then stops right away like it locked up or something
Barely even cranks actually. Turn it and then it stops instantly
Why didn't you start from the beginning? The engine looks already taken apart at the start of the video.
There are multiple videos that get us to this point of repairs. It wasn't a spot repair, we replaced plenty along the way. It made no sense for me to take apart the same parts each time. Check my video list they are numbered.
Hello Nick, thank you for the good works. I have a slight problem, my intake manifold is stuck to the head and I can’t get it out. I think it has never been taken out before. Any help? Thanks 🙏🏿
As long as you have every bolt and nut removed, you need to use a pry bar. Find a good corner to start prying on. Once you get it cracked loose, it should come up.
@@nicklldoit thanks man I was able to pry it. Another problem is the harness. I can’t get to unlock the old one to connect the new. I mean the single sided and not the double leading to knock sensors. I appreciate the help. Thanks!
@@shalomhour keep trying with a small screw driver or some pliers. It's plastic and will separate.
@@nicklldoit thank you so much sir. I am very grateful. I was able to replace the knock sensors. God Bless you and keep you. Peace ✌🏿!
Hi Nick. Great video. I'm about to undertake this job. I'm trying to find Parts 1 thru 13, but they aren't coming up on my youtube search. Any ideas?
Did ya subscribe? Easier to find that way.
Part numbers are listed in the descriptions.
@@nicklldoit I subscribed immediately. When I watched part 14. I can't seem to find 1 thru 13 though.
@@randybrady1689 I assure you that they are there, I just checked my account. The part numbers are not in the title. They are in the descriptions and the video thumbnails.
Look at the description of this video to see additional videos on how I got here.
What knock sensors did you use and how are they holding up?
I used Toyota sensors and a aftermarket harness. These cars can be tricky if you get a knock sensor code "check light" it can come from other issues like vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor. Back to your question, I've never had issues with OEM sensors short term
Hello this just happened to me i was looking for the part but i’m not sure what it’s called
ACDELCO 14905S Heater Hose
About how much should I be looking to pay for knock sensor replacement??
For Labor only: I don't have the manufacturers shop hours. But I would guess between $180 to $270. Varies per shop unfortunately.
Hello Nick, after installing both knock sensors, the check light came on again for bank 1, I returned it for a new one at autozone, I installed it and now the check light is one again. I run the diagnostics and was told both bank 1 and 2 knock sensors needs to be replaced, meanwhile I installed 2 new ones, changed the harness, the gaskets and the hose too. What could be the problem this time sir? Thanks for the help.
It's extremely rare to get a trouble code for both sensors to be bad. That almost never happens. You have a problem in your air I take system, either you have a vacuum leak or the mass air flow sensor is dirty
Hello Nick, it is me again. I have changed my knock sensors and harness several times with different brands, but I keep getting a code for either bank 1 or 2. AAMCO sent a technician to check it out, he took it for a test drive and said he couldn’t hear any knock and that it is driving fine. The car needs to pass the emission retest else it DMV will not renew the registration. What do I do? Thanks you for the help. ✌🏿
@@shalomhour I'll point back to my previous comment, you have a small vacuum leak or your mass air flow sensor is not reading correctly. Other than that, you could have a fuel or spark issue. It's hard to say exactly from here, someone needs to run a full computer diagnostic while the car is running. They need to check the values and find the fault.
Did you use the genuine Toyota harness and sensors? I've read that the trouble code for anti-knock sensor circuit usually indicates a bad harness and not bad sensors. Many people have had problems with both the after-market harness and sensors.
@shalomhour That is why you should always use genuine Toyota parts when it comes to electrical components. Hondas and Toyotas are very picky about that. The knock sensors work at a certain frequency 7500 Hertz or 9500 Herts. I can't remember which one. Aftermarket parts from any of the parts stores are not recommended. You now know for next time.
Are those 3 gaskets the only ones you changed?
Just the 3 intake gaskets, for this car the EGR and throttle body ones were reusable. But the kit gasket I bought had all of them, so I replaced those anyways.
@@nicklldoit Do you have a parts list for what you used in your rebuild as far as the sensors and gaskets go
?
@@jeremyfletcher9163 Please see video description, I have updated it there. Use Rockauto and save money.
Did you replace the fuel injector seats and seals?
I would replace all injector seals for sure, based from age. Prevent them from leaking. I have a video on that as well
@@nicklldoit would you happen to remember the part number of the black clip which holds the wire to the hose? And the gray clip which holds the knock sensor wire to the main harness which bolts on the driver side of the cylinder head?
@@RickTroutner oh man, I don't have a clue on those clips. I typically use zip ties.
@@nicklldoit thanks for taking the time to respond! That's what I'm thinking I'm going to have to go with.
@@nicklldoit I believe the black clip is part number 8271106120
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