Those spring clamps are actually better, because they are constantly tightening. so if the hose gets a little sloppy or loose, the spring clamp will continue to tighten down over time. Where as a regular hose clamp will only be a fixed tightness; which is usually not a problem because you can just snug it down if it starts leaking. But with that hose being buried in the bottom like that, the spring clamps are a much better choice actually; since you can't get to the hidden hose clamp to tighten later.
Great video! First one I've seen that clearly shows removal of the lower intake manifold on the Toyota V6 3.0 1MZFE engine. I've got the throttle body and plenum off on my '95 Avalon (196k miles) and am about to replace the knock sensor wiring harness. I will do that coolant bypass hose as well as a preventive. But first I have to take care of a leaking valve cover gasket on the rear bank. Not a professional--I hope my it all works out. Wish me well. Thanks.
If I was doing that hose, I wouldn’t lube that up with anything just to make sure that hose will not go anywhere when coolant pressure starts to build up. The combination of clamps and bumps on metal tube joints are there to tighten and secure that hold on rubber without slippage. Putting grease for ease of installation totally defeats this purpose. Also, while you were already that deep, you should’ve taken the chance of replacing those knock sensors. But hey, you probably had a reason not to. With all that said, you did one heck of a job showing us what it takes to replace that hose. Thank you very much for sharing your work. God bless.
Hi, presumably U got close to the problem, however, it is best to address the one level further down problem at the same time, which is: a failed FIPG (form in place gasket) underneath the water intake>>lid
Yeeeeahhhh…. I was about to go in there and replace the coolant byhose … cause I’ve been over heating…. Went to a shop for a compression test & the housing water inlet is starting to fail …. So I just bought a new one …. An the FIPG … Intake gaskets … etc….400$ in parts…. Shop was tryna charge 1.2k in parts . An 1.6 k in labor
Great vid, thank you! I have to do this job on an 05’ ES330 soon too. I may change out the knock sensors since I’m in there and chance the throttle body little coolant hoses as well as the lower one is almost impossible to get to. Again, thank you, great video!
In the event that one of the thermostat housing screws breaks what is the fix for that? I have a coolant leak somewhere in that area and I’m trying to find it
@iluvbogs that meshed net is likely for either shipping or a very poor protective barrier 😆. I typically leave them on. Just in case it sit in an awkward position and it vibrating against a component wouldn't cause rupture of the actual hose. I could've removed it but overall, it's no hazzard.
@@partsshooter how much time does it take to change the hose? I have a bunch of coolant sitting on the driver side of the engine. Smoke was coming out from both sides of the engine
Those spring clamps are actually better, because they are constantly tightening. so if the hose gets a little sloppy or loose, the spring clamp will continue to tighten down over time. Where as a regular hose clamp will only be a fixed tightness; which is usually not a problem because you can just snug it down if it starts leaking. But with that hose being buried in the bottom like that, the spring clamps are a much better choice actually; since you can't get to the hidden hose clamp to tighten later.
Yeah, but they are literally the worst thing to get off and put back on.
Great video! First one I've seen that clearly shows removal of the lower intake manifold on the Toyota V6 3.0 1MZFE engine. I've got the throttle body and plenum off on my '95 Avalon (196k miles) and am about to replace the knock sensor wiring harness. I will do that coolant bypass hose as well as a preventive. But first I have to take care of a leaking valve cover gasket on the rear bank. Not a professional--I hope my it all works out. Wish me well. Thanks.
If I was doing that hose, I wouldn’t lube that up with anything just to make sure that hose will not go anywhere when coolant pressure starts to build up. The combination of clamps and bumps on metal tube joints are there to tighten and secure that hold on rubber without slippage. Putting grease for ease of installation totally defeats this purpose. Also, while you were already that deep, you should’ve taken the chance of replacing those knock sensors. But hey, you probably had a reason not to. With all that said, you did one heck of a job showing us what it takes to replace that hose. Thank you very much for sharing your work. God bless.
About to do this exact job for a family member, EXCELLENT VIDEO! Thanks for posting!
Hi, presumably U got close to the problem, however, it is best to address the one level further down problem at the same time, which is: a failed FIPG (form in place gasket) underneath the water intake>>lid
Yeeeeahhhh…. I was about to go in there and replace the coolant byhose … cause I’ve been over heating…. Went to a shop for a compression test & the housing water inlet is starting to fail …. So I just bought a new one …. An the FIPG … Intake gaskets … etc….400$ in parts…. Shop was tryna charge 1.2k in parts . An 1.6 k in labor
Great video. I need to change the lower by pass hose also. I didn't realize it was buried under the. Intake.
Great vid, thank you! I have to do this job on an 05’ ES330 soon too. I may change out the knock sensors since I’m in there and chance the throttle body little coolant hoses as well as the lower one is almost impossible to get to. Again, thank you, great video!
Thanks for sharing! Can that hose be changed without taking everything apart?!
Yes, use the Toyota clamps, they put the right amount of clamping force, the "worm gear" type don't and you can easily overtighten them.
Thank you very much for this!!!
In the event that one of the thermostat housing screws breaks what is the fix for that? I have a coolant leak somewhere in that area and I’m trying to find it
Hi, did you have to get the thermostat housing off? Which is where the middle hose is connected to.. between the front and rear knock sensor.
The video shows everything you need to know that I did
What is the purpose of the sleeve on that new hose and why it doesn’t cover the entire hose if it’s for protection ?
Add a time stamp so I can see what you're talking about
The new hose you got at 28:47.
@iluvbogs that meshed net is likely for either shipping or a very poor protective barrier 😆. I typically leave them on. Just in case it sit in an awkward position and it vibrating against a component wouldn't cause rupture of the actual hose. I could've removed it but overall, it's no hazzard.
It’s a heat shield .(:
Great video, how long will that bypass hose last?
The new one... another 10 plus years
@@partsshooter Thanks, my 06 Camry V6 has 156k. I am thinking to change it, but the old one may also last a little longer, just don't know how long.
Thank you 🙏
I suspect my car has this issue, wondering if you also had alot of "smoke" coming out of the engine bay after some extended driving?
She didn't complain about that, just of the loss of coolant
@@partsshooter how much time does it take to change the hose? I have a bunch of coolant sitting on the driver side of the engine. Smoke was coming out from both sides of the engine
This is a great video
good job
Video title calls out 2003, first thing the guy announces is that it’s a 2002.🙄
Same thing, engines aren't made for only 1yr
Here dad