I have a 2022 Kia stinger GT1 AWD. I have borla cat back exhaust, 2 into 1 B.O.V by Tial, cold air intakes, big mouth air inlets, oil catch can, bigger intercooler and transmission cooler(most parts are from Burger motorsports). Custom E.C.U by Lap3 tuning. Rear differential brace. HKS M45 plugs, 5w40 full synthetic oil. I'm pushing 480 AWHP. I also put Ashanti black label wheels plus drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads from R1 racing. Its definitely worth modding, I still daily drive it to.
@@royalcrownpro6777 how so? I’ve been following a thread discussion about the tune and it’s been running fine for some people and only very few had issues but it was worked out. I’ve done 12,000km with the tune so far and it’s holding up well.
The only thing that sucks about modding a stinger is that everyone has to use the exact same mods, with the exception of intake and exhaust; JB4, bigger intercooler, downpipe, charge pipe injection (Stinger is a GDI when it should be duel injection, cause...clean valves). So basically everyone has the same car at 450whp with all the same mods, they just sound slightly different due to air-flow mods. The great thing about the Stinger is that the mod list is proven and super cheap!! Full bolt-on and tune is about $3000, and you get approx. 100whp and 100tq! Very Nice
YOU ARE RIGHT!! This is the PERFECT combo to unleash what the Stinger GT is capable of! I’ve made some vids showing the same mods, but not the oil! You like that oil? Great editing btw!
Yes this woke up the car like we’d hoped for. We love the Motul 5w40 composition. We use it in a wide range of performance apps from AMGs to STIs to Veloster N and more. It’s a great performing oil before stepping up to their ester race oil which is more of an application specific oil not recommended for daily driver use. The sport ester is a high performance oil but has a much shorter change interval than the 8100-xcess series oil.
@@performanceautocentregta7727 very interesting. Thank you for that info. I will keep this in mind. I’m pushing her to the same limits as you, esp w the e30 mix. I agree on your comment with all that heat, that has been a concern of mine. I modded the car to use the power, so this may be a good investment. What’s your opinion on e30 mix in map 3/4?. Obviously they didn’t engineer it for ANY e85 to go in the tank.
Also going to pick up some Motul. What is your change interval when using this oil? Also do you have experience with the X-clean vs the X-cess? And last being in Canada where it gets cold do you 5w40 year round?
My 2022 AWD 3ltr. Owned for 6 weeks only 1. Eibach lowering springs 2. K&N cold air intake 3. Borla exhaust 4. Blow off valves 5. JB4 w wireless control
@@lyfeofchevy It's probably more around 6K if you get everything new; just install everything yourself, free labour is always best! Here is what I have in my 2022 Elite, if it's new/used, and what I paid vs MSRP cost, all in CAD: 1. Mishimoto Oil Catch Can ($260, new) 2. Agency Power CAI ($400, got from friend's Stinger. $650 new) 3. Agency Power Dual BOV's ($350, got used from Vivid Racing; $500 new) 4. Magnaflow Catback Exhaust ($800, got from friend's Stinger ~$2500 new) 5. Ark Secondary Catless Downpipes ($840, new) 6. Velossa Tech Big Mouth Snorkels ($225, bought new unused on Kijiji; ~$350 new) 7. Pedal Commander ($150, got from friend's Stinger; $300 new) Total paid = $3025 CAD vs $~5400 new. Just need a JB4 and I'm all set, which I have lined up for $650 w/bluetooth connection from a guy once I have the $$. Hope this helps Flocko
This was an excellent video giving some additional detail on the install of these parts! How are the EWG connections done? I know the fuel control and O2 posi-tap wires are also a great accessory to lean out the upper RPM's and make even more power!
Hey Tony! Glad you enjoyed the video! So the EWG connections are terminated on one side with the same connector as the OEM EWG, and the other side is just free wire with a pin crimped onto the end. this side is inserted into the JB4 ecu harness and must be inserted into the corresponding pin locations in order to bring the signal to the correct pin of the JB4 circuit board.
@@performanceautocentregta7727 powerful little box that Jb4 is! They must have upgraded from the old connections of having to replace the direct connection for each wastgate on the driver and passenger side turbos, sounds more convenient! No splicing or welding involved with connecting to the actual Jb4 module is there?
Yes it’s plug and play on the EWG side and the only slightly difficult part is feeding the wire into the circuit board connector. No soldering or welding, all you have to do is identify the correct pin locations in the main board connector and feed the open end of the wire (the end with pre-crimped pins) into that position and ensure it’s secured into the connector. Very simple but gets tedious as from application to application these pin locations change and the pins can be delicate so extra care is definitely required when adding these in.
Awesome video. We just picked up a Kia stinger and I was wondering if the dealership would see if you used the jn4. I just ordered the injen intake and I just had a exhaust shop remove the mufflers to give some sound. Then had the windows tinted lol. We love the car so far. It's a 2019 gt1 black.
Thanks for your kind words! The dealer won’t see any alterations via OBD scan, but can obviously visually see the jb4 unit installed on the car. We always recommend reverting to stock prior to dealer visits.
Haha appreciate the love we share the passion 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 hp gain on a stock vehicle is roughly 20-30hp on map 1 30-50hp on map 2. Bolt ons will increase these figures
Hey fantastic video! I was curious if you have looked into the BurgerTuning no maintenance oil catch can. Love the idea but is it as effective? Thanks for your wisdom/opinions.
Thanks for your kind words! We are familiar with all the systems offered for the stinger and although they all perform the same function, we prefer the systems with removable catch cans for one of two reasons. The first is because sometimes there is not only oil but water moisture that collects in these systems. It’s not a massive amount but depending on your climate can result in more or less moisture being retained in the system. Issue being, the BMS can drains this mix back into the crank case, this includes the residues and the moisture. With a removable can, both oil and moisture are set aside for you to remove at your designated time interval. The second reason is because with a removable can, you’re able to monitor the amount of residues being filtered. This is particularly helpful when selecting an oil to run in the vehicle as some oils contribute to more build up than others. With the BMS can, you cannot see this. At the end of the day all of these systems are better equipped than leaving your vehicle without an OCC system!
Wow thank you so much for your detailed response. Very much appreciated! I live in Utah BTW. Regardless I’ll go with the same one you recommend. Also curious if you have opinions on Denso Plugs vs HKS for the car and climate?
One difference we definitely notice between the two plugs is the strength of the materiel used. The Denso plug has a very weak ground strap. It bends much easier and takes less force to adjust than it’s HKS counterpart. We treat the Denso plug as a “one time gap” plug, meaning we DO NOT recommend closing / opening the gap to make adjustments multiple times. Choose the gap, set it and leave it. I’m very sure it’s possible to manage adjustment without breaking the Denso ground strap, but For us, we see the HKS plugs as an easy choice as it’s not the first time we’ve encountered clients breaking ground straps after adjusting gaps. The HKS plug has a much stiffer strap that seems less prone to breaking when making an adjustment, as well as less likelihood of an amateur tech breaking the strap all together.
Excellent video! Would love to do these mods but wary of messin' up my warranty. Hope you get some dyno time soon and find out the increased HP and torque.
@@Bulletcore I read too much where no one is having issues in terms of warranty. That was my concern as well but told myself i would probably on run Map 1 in Cali. Maybe Map 2 on occasions but to be safe primarily map 1
@@B1ackAlloy1992 I will wait to break in my engine a bit more before jumping into mods. My car is at 650 miles so far, but at this rate it might be a while since I don't drive very much.
We have heard you! And we are working on an in depth how-to video outlining the step by step process for those of you who are brave enough to work on your own cars!
Haha i definitely agree it does make it look easy but that was the goal lol! Anyways, Install of the entire kit is approx 6 hrs give or take. Between, install of parts , oil change and initial jb4 configuration If my memory serves me right the final cost was in the $3000+tax range. If you want a more exact quote feel free to contact us through our website.
@@performanceautocentregta7727 That sounds like a decent ballpark. Is that price with labor included or just parts? If that's with labor, that makes this a pretty affordable and meaningful upgrade imo. If that's without labor, it definitely means I'd learn to put in the wrench time. Lol
On our Mildly modified cars we push the trans and rear diff service at 40k Km. It’s not exactly brown at that point and smell isn’t burnt either. We don’t believe the fluid is compromised at this stage but if you wanted to compare it to new performance based fluid , surely there will be a difference in their capabilities. Straight away guys notice sharper shifting and more responsive shifts when commanding up or downshifts. We use the Motul ATF VI
The catch can in my 2007 4.7 supercharged gt at 180,000 miles since 50,000 miles never collected a drop of oil so far the can ip dry as a bone why? since everyone else get lot of crap....
IMHO sorry but this should not be the first thing you buy, adjustable eibach front and rear sway bars should be you first buy. The car handles so much better and feels a little more responsive, after that that kit is fine. In California tho the K&N typhoon cold air intake is the only cold air intake legal (with CARB number) for only 2018 & 2019 model year with the V6 not the 4 banger and I don’t know why they didn’t add all years but that’s California for you. With that extra power I added with the JB4 I wanted my car to be able to hold on to the road 😂
Nothing to be sorry about my man! We all have different tastes and desires! You are definitely right , all clients of ours with the eibach pro kit / Whiteline swaybar kit have reported major improvements in handling characteristics from factory. But if you’re in the mood for some Highway pulls with your buds, ain’t nothing wrong with some good old fashion power mods!
Have all Mods JB4 BM intercooler Carbon Brake pads Eibach SWAY Bars front and rear Magna FlowStainles Cat Back ARK Down PipeSecondary GFB POP OFF VALVES Big Mouth Air INTAKES ADD W1 CATCH CANS COLD AIR BOXES. I turn 160 at 5500 RPM Map 2 101VP Unleaded Raceing Gas an HK Raceing Plugs and The GT1 is still pulling Hard Like Doing 0 to 60 In Map 1 Shifts Longer 170 Both Maps 8 Gear Paddle Shifts. You can Take That To The Bank.
Hey Dem, yes unfortunately they discontinued production late 2021 early 2022. Not sure if it was due to supply issues or lack of popularity but there are still many awesome options in the market!
Factory intakes are catching air in front of the car so when car is moving fast big air presure is built in at intakes. So why red intakes are better ? I think they are only better when engine power is measured stationary
The air inlet of these intakes is placed directly in front of the front bumper air inlet , and still catches fresh air as the original intakes do but the actual design and increase in diameter is a great way to improve airflow over the OEM intake piping
@@performanceautocentregta7727 why is the intake a restriction when the wastegate is still artificially limiting boost? If the intake was a restriction we'd see boost being limited even when the wastegate was fully opened. Instead the limit with these engines is octane/knock, not the intakes, so we have to manually limit boost. The only way the intake can help is by lowering intake temps, which I doubt it does because it is now open to the extremely hot engine bay.
The Intake is still a restriction….pipe diameter, pipe routing and the air filter media are all contributors to this. I’m not sure what wastegates and boost limiting have to do with air intake lol. We’re talking about increasing the air/fuel charge capacity of the engine. The purpose of the intake is to not only achieve more free flowing air but colder air also. Less restriction, faster spool, colder air , more dense air/fuel charge, bigger bang, more power. You do realize there are direct vents coming from the grille feeding the filters as you drive right? There are also velossa tech inlets that can increase air flow to the air filter / intake inlet. By your standards every intake is hot air intake because at a stop light no intake is seeing truly cold air flow (outside of the engine bay). Yes for the first few seconds you’ll see minor heat increase of IAT but once driving it’s literally the exact same given an enclosed air filter has an ambient temp that is colder by a few degrees ….once driving, the same temp…..try data logging the differences before stating an opinion lol. It’s like saying why upgrade the intercooler? When you’re not driving air still gets hot LOL! Because more power baby!
Does hks recommend the spark plugs to be gap? Would it be okay to install the plugs without gapping them and run a jb4?? What I heard, looking for some advice!
We 1000% recommend checking spark plug gap prior to installation. Nobody can guarantee the quality of shipment handling by couriers and spark plugs can definitely get damaged if mishandled. Moreover, it’s been found on multiple brands of spark plugs, that the gap from the manufacturer isn’t the same gap required to run the jb4.
I'm in the market to buy a GT 2022 - Been seeing a lot of JB4 and air intake MODS ... Question with the factory warranty. ... Is it an issue if something malfunctions in the engine or anything else when taking it to the dealer and asking for warranty to cover??
Yes, hence with the jb4, you'll have to read about how to do it properly, but if I remember right you unplug your cars power when you set the jb4 in, and unplug when you take it out, and since it's a piggy back it won't be detected. Cold air intakes you'll have to swap in and out every maintenance but I believe some dealers are cooler. Some are fine with you having exhausts and such, but that doesn't mean Kia itself will be. So if you do get mods, especially tunes, it might affect engine warranty more. But that and power train are all it should affect.
As far as best practice goes, we always recommend checking gaps even if preset from factory. Poor Shipping and handling by carriers can damage ground strap or alter the gap. Always verify prior to installation.
Even though there is no direct EGR, there are other areas of the engine that facilitate blow-by and residue into the intake system. For example the PCV system can introduce blow by oils and residues into the intake system. This is especially crucial in a GDI application as there is no longer any fuel being introduced “pre combustion chamber” thus eliminating any washing of the valves by fuel. This lack of fuel washing of the valves allows these deposits/residues to build up and bond to the valve, so much so that it in turn causes displacement of the free space that used to exist in the intake runner area and valve opening. This restricts optimal air flow from occurring as more of the area that used to have air flow is now blocked by built up deposits. Furthermore it can cause turbulence in the airflow introduced into the intake runners and uneven air entering each cylinder which will contribute to poor idling conditions and power distribution amongst all cylinders. Hope this helps!
For the 2.0 model there are a few differences -different spark plug & plug heat range - different air intakes - different catch can mounting location and hose routing The rest of the parts are compatible with 2.0T models
@@performanceautocentregta7727 With so few having been built, I guess a stinger gt is a better if more boring option for me. Those Can Am s are to die for.
We unfortunately just haven’t had a 2.0T roll thru our door yet. Not a popular trim here in Canada. Would love to get one all FBO tho! One of these days !
This simply isn’t true…we’ve had several Stingers that have received approved warranty work from recalls to full transmission replacement, simply revert to stock before dealer visit.
@@performanceautocentregta7727 I own a 2022 Stinger GT2 and have asked the dealership and they told me it is still possible to detect piggybacks. There’s also plenty of videos on RUclips explaining why and how they are able to so tell me how it’s not true because that’s the only reason I haven’t tuned mine.
Well let me elaborate. On a new vehicle modifications are so obvious that they stick out like a sore thumb. This is why we take care to use all adapters available for the JB4. This eliminates the physical modifications from detection. Revert to stock harness and you’re finished. Now on occasion if a dealer technician is educated on the jb4 and how it’s installed they could easily notice if you pinched the oxygen sensor wiring harness to tap in the jb4 module if you didn’t use the adapters. That’s just best practice. That being said these piggybacks do not leave hidden codes in modules like BMW for example, who set “Shadow” codes when certain thresholds are surpassed, be it boost pressure or AFR for example. So it can technically happen but As of today, we have had no detection take place on the KIA / HYUNDAI platforms. Not to mention that 9/10 technicians in the dealer do not have the capability to dig deep enough into an ecu to find modifications within the programming / coding, these cases are typically elevated to Corporate / engineering level correspondence to proceed with further testing to attempt to identify the specific modification that caused the failure. Our client had roughly 4 months of diagnostic testing to allow Kia to approve his over $10,000 warranty claim. We are comfortable with the jb4, should it be installed correctly, vehicle is mechanically maintained correctly and reverted prior to dealer visits.
You may get around being caught, but it’s definitely a violation of the terms of the warranty, and at the very least unethical. If you want to use it, use it. But if you use it, and then make a warranty claim, you’re committing fraud.
Around the $3000 CAD area including parts and install at the time of filming, but as of late they have been slapping so many “COVID” price increases on everything so could be a bit more now.
if im on a budget and doing 1 upgrade at a time do i need to tune between each upgrade or like how does this all work im super new to modding cars and wanna start upgrading my new stinger :D (Thankyou so much for any help anyone)
We would recommend doing a final tune as the last stage , paired with the spark plugs. Prior to tuning you can install all bolt in mods and not require spark plug upgrade
@@performanceautocentregta7727 really other people acting like you have to tune everything straight away and i was so confused cause i would end up spending like 5k on tuning the car by time i get all the mods D: thanks so much
That’s literally the MOST important part man! If you tune without spark plugs it will misfire under boost and even worse it can cause knock or detonation! NOT GOOD! Trust me my friend!
It would be in the $800-$1000 range including the oil change and filter. Depending on which parts are installed, For example, the SXTH dual catch can is more involved to install than the BMS maintenance-free catch can, as well as different intakes having heat shielding while others do not. All of these factors contribute to the total install cost.
Skip JB4, get lap3 stage 1.5 ecu and stage 2 tcu, then get meth. Upgrade to catless secondaries and delete muffler or add catback. 10.8 second car. Lap3 gives you a spare ecu and tcu. 5 min to swap them. No one can tell you had the tune, confirmed and anyone who says otherwise is not informed. Meth lets you skip the oil catch cans too and is good to clean the engine along the way from carbon buildup. Jb4 causes over boost issues often and will put you in limp mode. Spend the money, it’s worth it.
A common misconception held by the community, is that it’s dangerous or a “no-no” to apply anti seize. But simply put, the only “danger” it poses, is that as it acts as a lubricant causing materials to torque incorrectly (reduced friction coefficient, more stretch per same effort/force applied. (We deal with this all the time when we build our race engines as we use moly-lube, a product that often has its own torque specs for most fastener components vs torquing dry or torquing with simple 5w30 engine oil). The issue being, unexperienced individuals will apply copious amounts of anti-seize and over-torque and increase the likely hood of snapping or stripping the spark plug. But for the trained professional’s hand, I think they will be okay! It’s worked for us for a number of years 👍🏻
@@performanceautocentregta7727 I had done it for years also.... UNTIL my mach 1 mustang with the 4.6 4V would literally spit spark plugs out. It turned out those heads were found to not have threads not as deep as they should have, but the very simple fix was to stop lubricating the threads. Once I learned that, it never happened again. I still know many many old school mechanics that lube in some way, but I listen to the plug manufacturers at this point. 👍
Hey man there is never only ONE right way to do things! If it works for you that’s the best result you could hope for! It seems the most unfortunate way for us gear heads to learn is when we mess up 😂 don’t be fooled , I’ve definitely broken my fair share of stuff over time. But we learn and adapt to what works best and more importantly what doesn’t, and that’s what’s important!
I feel your disappointment John! Sorry for that! , but dyno time is a bit out of our client’s budget at this time. In the future we look to include before and after figures for our major builds!
I like the enthusiasm and care you put into your work. Wish you lived closer, I would bring my Stinger to you for upgrades.
He seems like a nice dude.
Same
this the guy I need working on my car.... His assurance in his competency 🔧is everything.
How do you know?
Love the overall vibe and attention to detail in the rundown. Will definitely bring mine in for the whole package once it arrives!
We look forward to helping you beginning your modding journey!!
I have a 2022 Kia stinger GT1 AWD. I have borla cat back exhaust, 2 into 1 B.O.V by Tial, cold air intakes, big mouth air inlets, oil catch can, bigger intercooler and transmission cooler(most parts are from Burger motorsports). Custom E.C.U by Lap3 tuning. Rear differential brace. HKS M45 plugs, 5w40 full synthetic oil. I'm pushing 480 AWHP. I also put Ashanti black label wheels plus drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads from R1 racing. Its definitely worth modding, I still daily drive it to.
Cap
That build probably sounds nice and the rotors probably make it look nice
Need some video/pictures thinking about 2018 Stinger vs a 2021 K5 rn.
@@TheOneZootstinger for performance don’t get the k5 bro but k5 still an awesome car just another level if you get a stinger and mod it
I was debating on JB4 but decided to go full ECU route with Lozic ECU + TCU tune. Dyno’d 490AWHP and 560AWTQ recently on 93!
No videos
Full ecu tune is the best for power but I like jb4 ease of removal and leaving no trace of mod for warranty repairs
@@EgguEd51 and what else?
Lozic tune is getting a lot of bad wrap recently how's it holding up
@@royalcrownpro6777 how so? I’ve been following a thread discussion about the tune and it’s been running fine for some people and only very few had issues but it was worked out. I’ve done 12,000km with the tune so far and it’s holding up well.
Incredibly high production value for such a small channel. Fantastic video! Just earned another sub :)
The only thing that sucks about modding a stinger is that everyone has to use the exact same mods, with the exception of intake and exhaust; JB4, bigger intercooler, downpipe, charge pipe injection (Stinger is a GDI when it should be duel injection, cause...clean valves). So basically everyone has the same car at 450whp with all the same mods, they just sound slightly different due to air-flow mods.
The great thing about the Stinger is that the mod list is proven and super cheap!!
Full bolt-on and tune is about $3000, and you get approx. 100whp and 100tq! Very Nice
Everyone I know runs Lozic or Lap 3 tunes.
Damn I didn't realize how good the stinger looks in black
It really does!! Only issue is that it’s tough to keep clean!
@@performanceautocentregta7727 I second this lol, I own a 2019 GT Limited in black. Great video brother!
Lol love the slow motion and music. Very entertaining video, pretty much the same set up I got on my stinger.
Glad you enjoyed the video! We enjoyed ourselves just as much making it! Your stinger must boogie really good then cause this one seriously HAULS!
@@performanceautocentregta7727 yes especially with E30 in the tank
YOU ARE RIGHT!! This is the PERFECT combo to unleash what the Stinger GT is capable of! I’ve made some vids showing the same mods, but not the oil! You like that oil? Great editing btw!
Yes this woke up the car like we’d hoped for. We love the Motul 5w40 composition. We use it in a wide range of performance apps from AMGs to STIs to Veloster N and more. It’s a great performing oil before stepping up to their ester race oil which is more of an application specific oil not recommended for daily driver use. The sport ester is a high performance oil but has a much shorter change interval than the 8100-xcess series oil.
@@performanceautocentregta7727 very interesting. Thank you for that info. I will keep this in mind. I’m pushing her to the same limits as you, esp w the e30 mix. I agree on your comment with all that heat, that has been a concern of mine. I modded the car to use the power, so this may be a good investment.
What’s your opinion on e30 mix in map 3/4?. Obviously they didn’t engineer it for ANY e85 to go in the tank.
Also going to pick up some Motul. What is your change interval when using this oil? Also do you have experience with the X-clean vs the X-cess? And last being in Canada where it gets cold do you 5w40 year round?
My 2022 AWD 3ltr. Owned for 6 weeks only
1. Eibach lowering springs
2. K&N cold air intake
3. Borla exhaust
4. Blow off valves
5. JB4 w wireless control
Hows does it sound bro, I would love to see a video of it.
How much did all of that cost you I’m trying to go that route on mines bro
@@nightwatcher will have to make one soon
@@lyfeofchevy I’ve added some more items. Probably just best to make a video but w labor it’s probably around $7-8k
@@lyfeofchevy It's probably more around 6K if you get everything new; just install everything yourself, free labour is always best! Here is what I have in my 2022 Elite, if it's new/used, and what I paid vs MSRP cost, all in CAD:
1. Mishimoto Oil Catch Can ($260, new)
2. Agency Power CAI ($400, got from friend's Stinger. $650 new)
3. Agency Power Dual BOV's ($350, got used from Vivid Racing; $500 new)
4. Magnaflow Catback Exhaust ($800, got from friend's Stinger ~$2500 new)
5. Ark Secondary Catless Downpipes ($840, new)
6. Velossa Tech Big Mouth Snorkels ($225, bought new unused on Kijiji; ~$350 new)
7. Pedal Commander ($150, got from friend's Stinger; $300 new)
Total paid = $3025 CAD vs $~5400 new. Just need a JB4 and I'm all set, which I have lined up for $650 w/bluetooth connection from a guy once I have the $$. Hope this helps Flocko
Great video💪🏽intakes are coming in this week and next up is plugs, catch can and tune!
Big fan of the Stinger..such underrated cars imo. Def light the new one with the light bar in the back too..
Everyone on RUclips thinks everything is “underrated.”
This was an excellent video giving some additional detail on the install of these parts! How are the EWG connections done? I know the fuel control and O2 posi-tap wires are also a great accessory to lean out the upper RPM's and make even more power!
Hey Tony! Glad you enjoyed the video! So the EWG connections are terminated on one side with the same connector as the OEM EWG, and the other side is just free wire with a pin crimped onto the end. this side is inserted into the JB4 ecu harness and must be inserted into the corresponding pin locations in order to bring the signal to the correct pin of the JB4 circuit board.
@@performanceautocentregta7727 powerful little box that Jb4 is! They must have upgraded from the old connections of having to replace the direct connection for each wastgate on the driver and passenger side turbos, sounds more convenient!
No splicing or welding involved with connecting to the actual Jb4 module is there?
Yes it’s plug and play on the EWG side and the only slightly difficult part is feeding the wire into the circuit board connector. No soldering or welding, all you have to do is identify the correct pin locations in the main board connector and feed the open end of the wire (the end with pre-crimped pins) into that position and ensure it’s secured into the connector. Very simple but gets tedious as from application to application these pin locations change and the pins can be delicate so extra care is definitely required when adding these in.
Awesome video. We just picked up a Kia stinger and I was wondering if the dealership would see if you used the jn4. I just ordered the injen intake and I just had a exhaust shop remove the mufflers to give some sound. Then had the windows tinted lol. We love the car so far. It's a 2019 gt1 black.
Thanks for your kind words! The dealer won’t see any alterations via OBD scan, but can obviously visually see the jb4 unit installed on the car. We always recommend reverting to stock prior to dealer visits.
Great video and well explained too. Hopefully getting a Stinger soon.
That track is the bomb! Love stingers!
Crazy thing is stock stinger beats 90% of the cars on the road any time of the day.
Love the enthusiasm. I just heard the rumors are true about the Stinger. Being discontinued. Just read the confirmation (8/12/2021). I love my GT2!
yes it's true, I'm still gonna keep mine Scorpion, this car is a beast, all i'm going to do is the jb4 and intake, love the ride!!
INJEN BLACK Crackle INTAKES also .
Do you recommend using the SXTH OCC during the winter? Any concerns about freezing?
this is just amazing i have the same engine in my car but mines genesis g70 3.3 awd this should work on it
First off... I love you. When I get my stinger I'm coming to you
Haha appreciate the love we share the passion 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 hp gain on a stock vehicle is roughly 20-30hp on map 1 30-50hp on map 2. Bolt ons will increase these figures
Holy shit I didn’t realize that you were in North york! I wish I knew that earlier
Come see us my friend!! We’re here to help :)
@@performanceautocentregta7727 I will! I will call you tomorrow and book an appointment!
Cant wait until they have this for the 2.5T. I currently have a JB4 tho
Great Video
I am going to buy a Genesis G70 and may add that package to it.
Do you have a video on the dyno with the tune finish
What was the results at dyno?? What is the increase of the HP, torque and acceleration?
Did you ever find out?
I just got my Kia stinger 2022 gt line 300hp would all these parts work for my 4 cylinder car?
This music makes me wanna dance around 💃🏻 🕺
What’s the cost of those mods? Can you break everything down for us?
Hey fantastic video! I was curious if you have looked into the BurgerTuning no maintenance oil catch can. Love the idea but is it as effective? Thanks for your wisdom/opinions.
Thanks for your kind words!
We are familiar with all the systems offered for the stinger and although they all perform the same function, we prefer the systems with removable catch cans for one of two reasons.
The first is because sometimes there is not only oil but water moisture that collects in these systems. It’s not a massive amount but depending on your climate can result in more or less moisture being retained in the system. Issue being, the BMS can drains this mix back into the crank case, this includes the residues and the moisture. With a removable can, both oil and moisture are set aside for you to remove at your designated time interval.
The second reason is because with a removable can, you’re able to monitor the amount of residues being filtered. This is particularly helpful when selecting an oil to run in the vehicle as some oils contribute to more build up than others. With the BMS can, you cannot see this.
At the end of the day all of these systems are better equipped than leaving your vehicle without an OCC system!
Wow thank you so much for your detailed response. Very much appreciated! I live in Utah BTW. Regardless I’ll go with the same one you recommend. Also curious if you have opinions on Denso Plugs vs HKS for the car and climate?
One difference we definitely notice between the two plugs is the strength of the materiel used. The Denso plug has a very weak ground strap. It bends much easier and takes less force to adjust than it’s HKS counterpart. We treat the Denso plug as a “one time gap” plug, meaning we DO NOT recommend closing / opening the gap to make adjustments multiple times. Choose the gap, set it and leave it. I’m very sure it’s possible to manage adjustment without breaking the Denso ground strap, but For us, we see the HKS plugs as an easy choice as it’s not the first time we’ve encountered clients breaking ground straps after adjusting gaps. The HKS plug has a much stiffer strap that seems less prone to breaking when making an adjustment, as well as less likelihood of an amateur tech breaking the strap all together.
Once again sharing your knowledge is very much appreciated. Thanks for the response. Keep up the amazing content!
Glad to help other enthusiasts out! We will try to keep the 🔥 content coming!
Excellent video!
Would love to do these mods but wary of messin' up my warranty. Hope you get some dyno time soon and find out the increased HP and torque.
Literally the same reason why I’m hesitant
Same here
@@Bulletcore I read too much where no one is having issues in terms of warranty. That was my concern as well but told myself i would probably on run Map 1 in Cali. Maybe Map 2 on occasions but to be safe primarily map 1
@@B1ackAlloy1992 I will wait to break in my engine a bit more before jumping into mods. My car is at 650 miles so far, but at this rate it might be a while since I don't drive very much.
Does it void the factory warranty
Do you guys have a step by step video on how to install the sparkplugs in the stinger?
I'd also like to see that video!
We have heard you! And we are working on an in depth how-to video outlining the step by step process for those of you who are brave enough to work on your own cars!
@@performanceautocentregta7727 sweet I can't wait to see it!!!!
We need that!
@@performanceautocentregta7727 🙋🏼♀️ I would love a plugs video
What kind of ballpark are we looking at for parts and labor? The video makes it look easy but I suspect we didn't see a lot of the wrench turning. Lol
Haha i definitely agree it does make it look easy but that was the goal lol! Anyways, Install of the entire kit is approx 6 hrs give or take. Between, install of parts , oil change and initial jb4 configuration
If my memory serves me right the final cost was in the $3000+tax range.
If you want a more exact quote feel free to contact us through our website.
@@performanceautocentregta7727 That sounds like a decent ballpark. Is that price with labor included or just parts? If that's with labor, that makes this a pretty affordable and meaningful upgrade imo. If that's without labor, it definitely means I'd learn to put in the wrench time. Lol
That’s the price with install it’s a great setup for the price and it also really wakes the car up!
Wish you didn't put the music at the end and let us know how it sounds haha, but great video!
great video
Thank you very much!
I just love the music
Music sounds like it was influenced by Seal's song "Killer" from his first album
Haha I just took a listen and you are correct! It definitely shared some elements !
Thoughts on trans service ? I was thinking around 10 ooo km's since everyone of those will be hard bastards and i have over 550rwhp currently... ?
On our Mildly modified cars we push the trans and rear diff service at 40k Km. It’s not exactly brown at that point and smell isn’t burnt either. We don’t believe the fluid is compromised at this stage but if you wanted to compare it to new performance based fluid , surely there will be a difference in their capabilities.
Straight away guys notice sharper shifting and more responsive shifts when commanding up or downshifts.
We use the Motul ATF VI
Buy, buy, buy! Now, now, now!
The catch can in my 2007 4.7 supercharged gt
at 180,000 miles since 50,000 miles never collected a drop of oil so far the can ip dry as a bone
why? since everyone else get lot of crap....
How much did this all cost?
How can I buy this complete set just as it appears in the video.
Looks like those catch cans are discontinued now for some reason. Gonna have to find something else.
Yes unfortunately SXTH did discontinue these cans but fortunately ADDW1 has made a dual can setup for those who desire it! And it looks great too!
Hey, I was looking for barola catback exhaust with the sema exhaust tips. Wonder how much would it cost on a 2019 Stinger. ?!
Are you located in Ontario, Canada ? Hit us up on Instagram for assistance! @performanceautocentregta
IMHO sorry but this should not be the first thing you buy, adjustable eibach front and rear sway bars should be you first buy. The car handles so much better and feels a little more responsive, after that that kit is fine. In California tho the K&N typhoon cold air intake is the only cold air intake legal (with CARB number) for only 2018 & 2019 model year with the V6 not the 4 banger and I don’t know why they didn’t add all years but that’s California for you. With that extra power I added with the JB4 I wanted my car to be able to hold on to the road 😂
Nothing to be sorry about my man! We all have different tastes and desires! You are definitely right , all clients of ours with the eibach pro kit / Whiteline swaybar kit have reported major improvements in handling characteristics from factory. But if you’re in the mood for some Highway pulls with your buds, ain’t nothing wrong with some good old fashion power mods!
@@performanceautocentregta7727 amen 👍🏾
What was the starting HP and what is the new HP now?
Hey Matt, unfortunately we don’t have those figures! But we’re working on securing some dyno time to put some numbers on paper!
Have all Mods JB4 BM intercooler Carbon Brake pads Eibach SWAY Bars front and rear Magna FlowStainles Cat Back ARK Down PipeSecondary GFB POP OFF VALVES Big Mouth Air INTAKES ADD W1 CATCH CANS COLD AIR BOXES. I turn 160 at 5500 RPM Map 2 101VP Unleaded Raceing Gas an HK Raceing Plugs and The GT1 is still pulling Hard Like Doing 0 to 60 In Map 1 Shifts Longer 170 Both Maps 8 Gear Paddle Shifts. You can Take That To The Bank.
I would love to get some work done
No dyno needed to run all these mods?
I've been looking all day for the sxth element parts you mention around 4:20 but they must be discontinued haha
Hey Dem, yes unfortunately they discontinued production late 2021 early 2022. Not sure if it was due to supply issues or lack of popularity but there are still many awesome options in the market!
Factory intakes are catching air in front of the car so when car is moving fast big air presure is built in at intakes. So why red intakes are better ? I think they are only better when engine power is measured stationary
The air inlet of these intakes is placed directly in front of the front bumper air inlet , and still catches fresh air as the original intakes do but the actual design and increase in diameter is a great way to improve airflow over the OEM intake piping
Add the snorkles and the functional hood scopes/vents but in reality it's a warm air intake
@@performanceautocentregta7727 why is the intake a restriction when the wastegate is still artificially limiting boost? If the intake was a restriction we'd see boost being limited even when the wastegate was fully opened. Instead the limit with these engines is octane/knock, not the intakes, so we have to manually limit boost.
The only way the intake can help is by lowering intake temps, which I doubt it does because it is now open to the extremely hot engine bay.
The Intake is still a restriction….pipe diameter, pipe routing and the air filter media are all contributors to this. I’m not sure what wastegates and boost limiting have to do with air intake lol. We’re talking about increasing the air/fuel charge capacity of the engine. The purpose of the intake is to not only achieve more free flowing air but colder air also. Less restriction, faster spool, colder air , more dense air/fuel charge, bigger bang, more power. You do realize there are direct vents coming from the grille feeding the filters as you drive right? There are also velossa tech inlets that can increase air flow to the air filter / intake inlet. By your standards every intake is hot air intake because at a stop light no intake is seeing truly cold air flow (outside of the engine bay). Yes for the first few seconds you’ll see minor heat increase of IAT but once driving it’s literally the exact same given an enclosed air filter has an ambient temp that is colder by a few degrees ….once driving, the same temp…..try data logging the differences before stating an opinion lol. It’s like saying why upgrade the intercooler? When you’re not driving air still gets hot LOL! Because more power baby!
…..even injen lists a 21hp gain via dyno….not sure how that would work….oh yeah, increased air flow and cooler air temps!
Does hks recommend the spark plugs to be gap? Would it be okay to install the plugs without gapping them and run a jb4?? What I heard, looking for some advice!
We 1000% recommend checking spark plug gap prior to installation. Nobody can guarantee the quality of shipment handling by couriers and spark plugs can definitely get damaged if mishandled.
Moreover, it’s been found on multiple brands of spark plugs, that the gap from the manufacturer isn’t the same gap required to run the jb4.
Awesome. How much in parts and labor for this upgrade. 🤔 Thank you.
Everything you see here is approx in the $3000 CAD range including parts and installation
Do it yourself, it takes an afternoon... 3 hours max
@@12pawsinn Sounds like a good plan. 👍
I'm in the market to buy a GT 2022 - Been seeing a lot of JB4 and air intake MODS ... Question with the factory warranty. ... Is it an issue if something malfunctions in the engine or anything else when taking it to the dealer and asking for warranty to cover??
Yes, hence with the jb4, you'll have to read about how to do it properly, but if I remember right you unplug your cars power when you set the jb4 in, and unplug when you take it out, and since it's a piggy back it won't be detected. Cold air intakes you'll have to swap in and out every maintenance but I believe some dealers are cooler. Some are fine with you having exhausts and such, but that doesn't mean Kia itself will be. So if you do get mods, especially tunes, it might affect engine warranty more. But that and power train are all it should affect.
Trying to hear the drive bys and that God awful rave music is playing...absolutely genius 🙃
How much would all this cost plus labor please give a detailed break down please
Send us a dm on insta! @performanceautocentregta
What was the increase in HP?
Did you ever find out?
I thought the HKS plugs came already gapped properly for the Stinger
As far as best practice goes, we always recommend checking gaps even if preset from factory. Poor Shipping and handling by carriers can damage ground strap or alter the gap. Always verify prior to installation.
Why is there no parts list or links?
Hey bro how much for the jb4 on 2023 elite
Please message us through Instagram or our website ! Thank you!
Where are you guys located in the GTA?
Hey! Check out our insta for all our info! @performanceautocentregta
What was the hp gain tho
would this whole setup work on a 2023 gt2 stinger ?
100% suitable for 2018-2023
Does this void the warranty?
Plan for the worst, hope for the best. If it's me, I would expect it to void it, and modify the car with that in mind.
Why no cat back?
Where are Dyno numbers?
U guys want to bulid mine if I pay for it 😂😂
Of course we will! But All kidding aside we’ve had 3 clients come from USA for our service packages / mod packages. Furthest was from Maryland!
Do these modes affect fuel consupmtion?
Typically we see more fuel consumption because of more hard driving! But when in eco mode and doing the limit it’s still decently efficient!
What’s the point of a catch can on a petrol car that doesn’t have an EGR?
Even though there is no direct EGR, there are other areas of the engine that facilitate blow-by and residue into the intake system. For example the PCV system can introduce blow by oils and residues into the intake system. This is especially crucial in a GDI application as there is no longer any fuel being introduced “pre combustion chamber” thus eliminating any washing of the valves by fuel. This lack of fuel washing of the valves allows these deposits/residues to build up and bond to the valve, so much so that it in turn causes displacement of the free space that used to exist in the intake runner area and valve opening. This restricts optimal air flow from occurring as more of the area that used to have air flow is now blocked by built up deposits. Furthermore it can cause turbulence in the airflow introduced into the intake runners and uneven air entering each cylinder which will contribute to poor idling conditions and power distribution amongst all cylinders. Hope this helps!
@@performanceautocentregta7727 great reply man! I’ll get it done with my stinger
We Definitely recommend it! Happy we could help you make the right choice in upgrading your stinger!
Are you selling this kit ?
Hi, yes we are! Send us a DM on Instagram @performanceautocentregta
Is it a good idea if we start from the full package?
will all these be plausible on the 2.0?
For the 2.0 model there are a few differences
-different spark plug & plug heat range
- different air intakes
- different catch can mounting location and hose routing
The rest of the parts are compatible with 2.0T models
Is that a pontiac Can Am on the lift?
Why yes it is! 1977 to be exact!
@@performanceautocentregta7727Might not have anywhere near the performance but I would take that over the stinger.
You have a good eye my friend! 👍🏻
@@performanceautocentregta7727 With so few having been built, I guess a stinger gt is a better if more boring option for me. Those Can Am s are to die for.
My friend where’s your shop?
We are in Toronto! Send us a DM on Instagram! @performanceautocentregta or email us!
Excellent Job please come do.mine it's waiting 4 ya
What boy the 2.0L man lol
We unfortunately just haven’t had a 2.0T roll thru our door yet. Not a popular trim here in Canada. Would love to get one all FBO tho! One of these days !
downpipes needed
Can these modifications be done on a GTLine model?
Yes they can! Although the 2.0T requires different parts it can be done!
@@performanceautocentregta7727 do you have any suggestions?
DM us on Instagram! @performanceautocentregta
Just a heads up if you want to keep your warranty do not use any piggy back tune they can and will find out regardless of unplugging it.
This simply isn’t true…we’ve had several Stingers that have received approved warranty work from recalls to full transmission replacement, simply revert to stock before dealer visit.
@@performanceautocentregta7727 I own a 2022 Stinger GT2 and have asked the dealership and they told me it is still possible to detect piggybacks. There’s also plenty of videos on RUclips explaining why and how they are able to so tell me how it’s not true because that’s the only reason I haven’t tuned mine.
Well let me elaborate.
On a new vehicle modifications are so obvious that they stick out like a sore thumb. This is why we take care to use all adapters available for the JB4. This eliminates the physical modifications from detection. Revert to stock harness and you’re finished.
Now on occasion if a dealer technician is educated on the jb4 and how it’s installed they could easily notice if you pinched the oxygen sensor wiring harness to tap in the jb4 module if you didn’t use the adapters. That’s just best practice. That being said these piggybacks do not leave hidden codes in modules like BMW for example, who set “Shadow” codes when certain thresholds are surpassed, be it boost pressure or AFR for example. So it can technically happen but As of today, we have had no detection take place on the KIA / HYUNDAI platforms.
Not to mention that 9/10 technicians in the dealer do not have the capability to dig deep enough into an ecu to find modifications within the programming / coding, these cases are typically elevated to Corporate / engineering level correspondence to proceed with further testing to attempt to identify the specific modification that caused the failure.
Our client had roughly 4 months of diagnostic testing to allow Kia to approve his over $10,000 warranty claim. We are comfortable with the jb4, should it be installed correctly, vehicle is mechanically maintained correctly and reverted prior to dealer visits.
You may get around being caught, but it’s definitely a violation of the terms of the warranty, and at the very least unethical. If you want to use it, use it. But if you use it, and then make a warranty claim, you’re committing fraud.
Whats the estimated cost on these mods?
Around the $3000 CAD area including parts and install at the time of filming, but as of late they have been slapping so many “COVID” price increases on everything so could be a bit more now.
Is there anyone in Wisconsin by chance installing this kit?
*flies down to Wisconsin to install the kit* LOL I would if I could pal 😂
if im on a budget and doing 1 upgrade at a time do i need to tune between each upgrade or like how does this all work im super new to modding cars and wanna start upgrading my new stinger :D (Thankyou so much for any help anyone)
We would recommend doing a final tune as the last stage , paired with the spark plugs. Prior to tuning you can install all bolt in mods and not require spark plug upgrade
@@performanceautocentregta7727 really other people acting like you have to tune everything straight away and i was so confused cause i would end up spending like 5k on tuning the car by time i get all the mods D: thanks so much
You can definitely do one step at a time. Just make sure when you tune , you do tune + plugs together. That is a MUST!!!
@@performanceautocentregta7727 weird you need to tune for spark plugs no one else has said that good job i asked lmfao ffs
That’s literally the MOST important part man! If you tune without spark plugs it will misfire under boost and even worse it can cause knock or detonation! NOT GOOD! Trust me my friend!
FYI, for the best fuel economy the manual does recommend ACEA A5 or higher oil. ACEA A3 works but, not the max spec for the motor.
do this void the warranty
I always recommend returning to stock configuration prior to any dealer visits.
Curious if you could do these mods to the 2.0 L. And If they can hold that much power
Fucken great video!
What would you charge to install all these MODS?
It would be in the $800-$1000 range including the oil change and filter. Depending on which parts are installed, For example, the SXTH dual catch can is more involved to install than the BMS maintenance-free catch can, as well as different intakes having heat shielding while others do not. All of these factors contribute to the total install cost.
PERFORMANCE AUTO CENTRE GTA thanks for taking thx time!!! I appreciate the base line expense!!
Where are you located?
We’re based in Toronto, Ontario, Canada!
Where are you located
Based in Toronto, Ontario !
Where you located? On the map
We are in Toronto, Canada!
To anyone who owns a KIA stinger Gt and Injen intakes did you have any problems with mpg?
Where u located
We are based out of Toronto, Ontario, Canada!
Skip JB4, get lap3 stage 1.5 ecu and stage 2 tcu, then get meth. Upgrade to catless secondaries and delete muffler or add catback. 10.8 second car. Lap3 gives you a spare ecu and tcu. 5 min to swap them. No one can tell you had the tune, confirmed and anyone who says otherwise is not informed. Meth lets you skip the oil catch cans too and is good to clean the engine along the way from carbon buildup. Jb4 causes over boost issues often and will put you in limp mode. Spend the money, it’s worth it.
Anti seize\ grease on the spark plug threads... big no no. Every sparkplug manufacturer will tell you that.
A common misconception held by the community, is that it’s dangerous or a “no-no” to apply anti seize. But simply put, the only “danger” it poses, is that as it acts as a lubricant causing materials to torque incorrectly (reduced friction coefficient, more stretch per same effort/force applied. (We deal with this all the time when we build our race engines as we use moly-lube, a product that often has its own torque specs for most fastener components vs torquing dry or torquing with simple 5w30 engine oil). The issue being, unexperienced individuals will apply copious amounts of anti-seize and over-torque and increase the likely hood of snapping or stripping the spark plug. But for the trained professional’s hand, I think they will be okay! It’s worked for us for a number of years 👍🏻
@@performanceautocentregta7727 I had done it for years also.... UNTIL my mach 1 mustang with the 4.6 4V would literally spit spark plugs out. It turned out those heads were found to not have threads not as deep as they should have, but the very simple fix was to stop lubricating the threads. Once I learned that, it never happened again. I still know many many old school mechanics that lube in some way, but I listen to the plug manufacturers at this point. 👍
Hey man there is never only ONE right way to do things! If it works for you that’s the best result you could hope for! It seems the most unfortunate way for us gear heads to learn is when we mess up 😂 don’t be fooled , I’ve definitely broken my fair share of stuff over time. But we learn and adapt to what works best and more importantly what doesn’t, and that’s what’s important!
AND the reason for the plug change is the JB4 does not control timing🤣🤣🤣
Still have to gap the plugs to .22 correct?
Hey Derek. You need to gap to 0.022 not 0.22. Gapping to 0.22 would likely render your spark plug useless. Don’t forget the decimal’s place!
All this and you don’t even show dyno results. 🙄🤦🏽♀️
I feel your disappointment John! Sorry for that! , but dyno time is a bit out of our client’s budget at this time. In the future we look to include before and after figures for our major builds!