Nice clear explanation and that’s just how I expected the job to be this morning on my 2011 Mazda 3. However, as my car is over 12 years old nothing was as clean and the disc (rotor to you) would not shift even with serious hitting with a hammer or the heat I could create with a propane torch. I had to put it back together and I will have to take it to somewhere where they can apply a bit more heat (oxy acetylene I expect) unless you have any better ideas!
Thanks! My advise is shoot penetration oil through the stud holes. Then the main trick is to hit the face with a hammer. You can put your lug nuts back on and hit inbetween each one. This will knock the rust loose from the hub face. Let me know how it goes. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
I got so fed up trying to get mine off that I used a grinder and cut the rotor into 4 pieces to get it off. A real pain but did it. Very frustrating. I think you need to loosen them up every couple of years or its nuts to get them off.
@@knightday1973 After putting some penetrating oil on I left it for another 3 weeks while I looked at the idea of drilling and tapping some holes and using one or more bolts to shift it. However, when I came back to it the penetrating oil must have worked because it came free with just a tap with the copper mallet. I now have two nice new front discs and pads.
@@rogerjackson3158 . I'm going to attempt doing my front brakes in a few weeks when it warms up a bit. If they're rusted on, I'll try your method. I would love to see a little tap tap and the rotors come off. Thanks.
I tried the penetrating oil and a lot of hitting with various hammers in various places but it is still stuck. While the pentrating oil was soaking in I had a go at ghd other side. That went just like your video. Now I have a possibly dangerous mixture of discs and pads but I will just have to find somewhere to do the job for me.
If you live up north it’s most likely more rusted in. That’s when you break out a torch and heat it up and also on the back side where the pinch bold goes you can stick in a wedge to help let it come free easier. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
I was about to book it in when a mechanic suggested drilling and tapping and using bolts to shift the sticking disc. I prepared to do that but then the disc came free with a gentle tap with a copper mallet. The answer seems to be to give the penetrating oil a couple of weeks to do its job.
Thanks!
@sarahrock2591 thanks! Sarah rocks!! Haha but seriously I do appreciate it and I’m glad I was able to help. Thanks for watching!
Nice clear explanation and that’s just how I expected the job to be this morning on my 2011 Mazda 3. However, as my car is over 12 years old nothing was as clean and the disc (rotor to you) would not shift even with serious hitting with a hammer or the heat I could create with a propane torch. I had to put it back together and I will have to take it to somewhere where they can apply a bit more heat (oxy acetylene I expect) unless you have any better ideas!
Thanks! My advise is shoot penetration oil through the stud holes. Then the main trick is to hit the face with a hammer. You can put your lug nuts back on and hit inbetween each one. This will knock the rust loose from the hub face. Let me know how it goes. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
I got so fed up trying to get mine off that I used a grinder and cut the rotor into 4 pieces to get it off. A real pain but did it. Very frustrating. I think you need to loosen them up every couple of years or its nuts to get them off.
@@knightday1973 After putting some penetrating oil on I left it for another 3 weeks while I looked at the idea of drilling and tapping some holes and using one or more bolts to shift it. However, when I came back to it the penetrating oil must have worked because it came free with just a tap with the copper mallet. I now have two nice new front discs and pads.
@@rogerjackson3158 . I'm going to attempt doing my front brakes in a few weeks when it warms up a bit. If they're rusted on, I'll try your method. I would love to see a little tap tap and the rotors come off. Thanks.
Do we have to open the brake bleeder screw while replacing the brakes? and then screw it back tight when were done?
No you shouldn’t need to open the bleeder. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I tried the penetrating oil and a lot of hitting with various hammers in various places but it is still stuck. While the pentrating oil was soaking in I had a go at ghd other side. That went just like your video. Now I have a possibly dangerous mixture of discs and pads but I will just have to find somewhere to do the job for me.
If you live up north it’s most likely more rusted in. That’s when you break out a torch and heat it up and also on the back side where the pinch bold goes you can stick in a wedge to help let it come free easier. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
I was about to book it in when a mechanic suggested drilling and tapping and using bolts to shift the sticking disc. I prepared to do that but then the disc came free with a gentle tap with a copper mallet. The answer seems to be to give the penetrating oil a couple of weeks to do its job.