Thank you for taking the time to film and post this. It is amazing that so many specific tasks (like brakes on a specific model of car) are available on youtube. They allow us all to do so much more than we could have years ago. We sometimes take this for granted but if people like you did not post such things, they would not be there.
I wanted to say, thanks for doing this. You did a great job on this video. Clear explanations, clear video. Nice job. Little things helped a lot. Lots of nice little details explained clearly.
Squeaky brakes aren't because of low pads (unless the friction surface of one or more pads is worn down to metal). It's usually because the last person to replace the pads didn't use a *thin layer of silicone high-temperature* grease on the backs of the pads and where the ends of the pads hook into the caliper. Those areas are metal-on-metal and will scrape making noise if not lubed. Be sure to clean the front (where it contacts the rotor) of each pad and the rotor surface (front and back) thoroughly with brake cleaner before final assembly.
I just purchased an 08 Mazda, will be needing to do brake job, did youtube search, your video popped up on top...you make it look so easy, I anticipate due to your video, I won't have any issues completing this job...thanks!
Thanks for a very well thought out & put together video!! Extremely thorough and great extra tips! I've changed a lot of brake pads over the years, on many different cars, but a quick refresher on a model with which I'm unfamiliar is always helpful. I watched several different videos on the Mazda 3 and yours, without a doubt, was the best! I give your presentation two thumbs up/5 stars/whatever your scoring method: Top notch!!
Your video helped me every step of the way. Did front pads and rotors in my daughter's 2004 Mazda this morning. I would include some mention about process to clean up the brackets. I got that from another video. Thanks for the advice, just test drove it and no problems, lots of pedal now. Saved me hundreds probably.
Great video. Good explanations, pacing and tone. SUPER helpful! Going to change the front brake pads and rotors on my wife's 2005 Mazda 3 Sport. Thanks for the video! :)
Brian Burke, I can't respond directly to your comment, but you can put lubricant on the back of the pads, but the pads themselves aren't going anywhere. They are aligned in the bracket and the caliper, so there's no real reason they should squeak.
I couldn't help but notice the surface of the rotor and what condition the back of the rotor was like . I'd maybe consider putting on metallic brake pads to help smooth out the rough surface of the disc . Make any sense at all if you're not changing the rotors .🤔
very helpful, I usually have my brother do all this, but I'll have to do it to my own car this time, I've had new pads and rotors just sitting there for months now, I will use this video as a guide tho,
I cannot remove the caliper bolt its stuck with rust probably, tried to spray it with anti rust tried to tap on it and around it.. even used tube extension for my wrench no luck.. any idea?
7mm hex... that was VERY helpful. I couldnt get any socket that would seem to fit in this blind hole hidden on the back side of the caliper and I thought, Wait a minute, what kind of bolt are they using in this!?! :D
Great video. I just did the pads on my 2012 Mazda 3i and unless you are a magician you cut out all the beating and prying to get the old pads loose. On the passenger side my caliper side was a royal PITA to get off. The the driver side the outer side would not break free. The problem lies in the pads being half rusted/welded to the caliper mounts. Then that spring. I had to watch you 3 times and to figure out I needed to use vice grips. I agree put top hole in 1st then put bottom hole in but then use vice grips to pull the spring around. They must have made them tighter on later models.
That makes sense. I'm in NY so we get winter and salt that rust everything. 4 years of rust. Not sure how long stock breaks get but I have 46,000 on mine right now and It's the first time I replaced the front pads, the rear are still fine. The tires had to be replaced as well. Inspection due this month.
Many thanks for your very instructive video. I'll need to change the pads on my Mazda Verisa, which has the same brake setup. A great refresher video for me, as it's been a while since my previous brake pad change :)
By far the best video for this specific gen Mazda on youtube. Don't know why this video doesn't come up first in the search results. I must've wasted hours of my life watching terrible tutorials. Thank you. Btw is that rust on the passenger side strut mount? My driver's side is fine but the passenger side looks like it's had better days.
Thank you so much Jo Daddy's Garage for a most informative video; it has built my confidence in doing the job. Sometimes I hesitate at a new challenge for no reason. Also, I try always to add a comment and especially:-"thanksgiving" to people like you who share their wealth of knowledge. All the way from Australia - lol.
Wow, this video was very helpfull, I was looking for something like this, thanks for taking the time to teach everybody how to do it, greetings from Chile.
Should the brake fluid reservoir cap be taken off before compressing the caliper piston? Any chance the ABS sensor could be damaged if it were left on during compression?
You can remove the cap if you want. I usually do so I can monitor the fluid level easier. It is unlikely that the sensor would be damaged unless it was pinched or hit in some way.
When a garage replaces all four wheels' brake pads (only), or with new rotors, do they automatically drain and replace the new fresh blake fluid, or just kind of top it off? I just had four new pads put on my Mazda3 2017, and I have no idea if they did the fluid too, or not.
Good effin job!! You have explained to me what others have failed to explain and that is the brake fluid master cylinder. Thank you very much. A question i have is if my pedal sinks all the way down, how can i get it to be where i had it where i barely pressed the brake pedal and the car would begin to slow down immediately. If you could send me a video of that id appreciate it alot.
I have one more question, if you please. Changed all pads successfully and thanks to you video, but now the peddle feels very spongy and requires more pressure. I made sure the header tank didn't evacuate. May I ask a further help? Down Under
Very educational. More detailed than most others on youtube. There's just one thing: after the new disc pads has been replaced, do you pump the brakes when the brake fluid reservoir cap has already been re-tightened or whilst the cap is still open?
Thank you for taking the time to film and post this. It is amazing that so many specific tasks (like brakes on a specific model of car) are available on youtube. They allow us all to do so much more than we could have years ago. We sometimes take this for granted but if people like you did not post such things, they would not be there.
You're welcome.
Thanks a ton. 2 years later and still valuable. that should make you feel good.
Always nice to hear.
Probably one of the best how-to videos I've seen
I wanted to say, thanks for doing this. You did a great job on this video. Clear explanations, clear video. Nice job. Little things helped a lot. Lots of nice little details explained clearly.
Thanks.
Nice one. Just inherited a Mazda 3 2005 hatchback in the UK with squeaky brakes. Will follow this video when adding new pads, thank you!
Squeaky brakes aren't because of low pads (unless the friction surface of one or more pads is worn down to metal). It's usually because the last person to replace the pads didn't use a *thin layer of silicone high-temperature* grease on the backs of the pads and where the ends of the pads hook into the caliper. Those areas are metal-on-metal and will scrape making noise if not lubed.
Be sure to clean the front (where it contacts the rotor) of each pad and the rotor surface (front and back) thoroughly with brake cleaner before final assembly.
I just purchased an 08 Mazda, will be needing to do brake job, did youtube search, your video popped up on top...you make it look so easy, I anticipate due to your video, I won't have any issues completing this job...thanks!
Super in depth, nice and simple explanation, awesome vid.
Now to deal with the rusted pricks that are my bolts...
Thanks so much! I'll be doing my brakes on the Mazda this week! Nothing else to do while we quarantine!
Hey,I have a 2011 Mazda 3,and this video is very helpful!
Thanks from Italy!
NeoEletto24 just bought me the same. 11 mazda3 s hatchback. gotta learn for when the time comes
Thanks for a very well thought out & put together video!! Extremely thorough and great extra tips! I've changed a lot of brake pads over the years, on many different cars, but a quick refresher on a model with which I'm unfamiliar is always helpful. I watched several different videos on the Mazda 3 and yours, without a doubt, was the best!
I give your presentation two thumbs up/5 stars/whatever your scoring method: Top notch!!
+Jack Gold Thanks!
Your video helped me every step of the way. Did front pads and rotors in my daughter's 2004 Mazda this morning. I would include some mention about process to clean up the brackets. I got that from another video. Thanks for the advice, just test drove it and no problems, lots of pedal now. Saved me hundreds probably.
I wish more YT videos were like this, just straight to the point without the unnecessary babbling and B.S. very well done sir!
Great video. Good explanations, pacing and tone. SUPER helpful! Going to change the front brake pads and rotors on my wife's 2005 Mazda 3 Sport. Thanks for the video! :)
Thanks for posting this, just did my brakes for the first time on my 08 Mazda3, and this video was a huge help!
Thanks a lot! One of the best how to video on RUclips! Guillaume from Quebec, Canada!
Mate, you couldn't have made this video any clearer! Thank you for helping me out!
I'm going to change the pads on my 2010 Mazda 3, and this will be super helpful. thanks for a great video!
Brian Burke, I can't respond directly to your comment, but you can put lubricant on the back of the pads, but the pads themselves aren't going anywhere. They are aligned in the bracket and the caliper, so there's no real reason they should squeak.
Yes I did and sensitivity is coming back with different speeds and soft, medium and harder breaking. All good and thanks again.
Excellent video!....I feel like I can work on my 2008 Mazda 3 now........thank you for doing such a great job!
Many others said it better but, thanks for a very helpful and informative how to on this particular car.
I couldn't help but notice the surface of the rotor and what condition the back of the rotor was like .
I'd maybe consider putting on metallic brake pads to help smooth out the rough surface of the disc .
Make any sense at all if you're not changing the rotors .🤔
Cheers mate. Beautifully explained
Nice video, very clear, nice pacing and good explanations.
Very well explained and professionally videoed! Thanks
This video is highly informative. Thank you! Now I feel empowered to take better care of my car - you’re saving me hundreds of dollars!
very helpful, I usually have my brother do all this, but I'll have to do it to my own car this time, I've had new pads and rotors just sitting there for months now, I will use this video as a guide tho,
Great video bud, your a natural. Keep em coming.
I cannot remove the caliper bolt its stuck with rust probably, tried to spray it with anti rust tried to tap on it and around it.. even used tube extension for my wrench no luck.. any idea?
That's got to be rusted pretty bad. Can you turn the rotor? Or is the caliper hanging on?
7mm hex... that was VERY helpful. I couldnt get any socket that would seem to fit in this blind hole hidden on the back side of the caliper and I thought, Wait a minute, what kind of bolt are they using in this!?! :D
Great video. I just did the pads on my 2012 Mazda 3i and unless you are a magician you cut out all the beating and prying to get the old pads loose. On the passenger side my caliper side was a royal PITA to get off. The the driver side the outer side would not break free. The problem lies in the pads being half rusted/welded to the caliper mounts. Then that spring. I had to watch you 3 times and to figure out I needed to use vice grips. I agree put top hole in 1st then put bottom hole in but then use vice grips to pull the spring around. They must have made them tighter on later models.
I am a magician. Actually we live in Ga. and rust is rare here. Major advantage.
That makes sense. I'm in NY so we get winter and salt that rust everything. 4 years of rust. Not sure how long stock breaks get but I have 46,000 on mine right now and It's the first time I replaced the front pads, the rear are still fine. The tires had to be replaced as well. Inspection due this month.
Gentle driving will make everything last longer. I have gotten 100,000 miles from a set of brake pads.
@@JoDaddysGarage by
Thanks for the video. It's super clear and easy to understand.
Speed3 looks quite a bit different, But this helped me get the gist of it. Thank you
Well done video on brake change, simple and informative.
You just eliminated all the worries in doing this myself, thank you sir.
Many thanks for your very instructive video. I'll need to change the pads on my Mazda Verisa, which has the same brake setup. A great refresher video for me, as it's been a while since my previous brake pad change :)
Really nice job. You make it look easy!
By far the best video for this specific gen Mazda on youtube. Don't know why this video doesn't come up first in the search results. I must've wasted hours of my life watching terrible tutorials. Thank you.
Btw is that rust on the passenger side strut mount? My driver's side is fine but the passenger side looks like it's had better days.
Unlikely to be rust hre in the South. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you so much Jo Daddy's Garage for a most informative video; it has built my confidence in doing the job. Sometimes I hesitate at a new challenge for no reason. Also, I try always to add a comment and especially:-"thanksgiving" to people like you who share their wealth of knowledge. All the way from Australia - lol.
You're welcome, and thank YOU for the comment. Not sure how many responses I have received from the land down under. You may be the first.
Awesome Video, everything is covered.
Very informative video, could also probably use a C clamp for compressing the piston.
+george Joseph That works too. Also a pair of c-clamp vise grips.
Thank you very much for making this video! really helpful!
Should you bleed the fluid (As opposed to sending it back into the system) when resetting the piston to get newer fluid behind the new pad?
That is an option.
Really nice video. Best I have seen. Thanks.
+Peter von Gaza Thanks. I appreciate the comment.
THANK YOU SAVED MY DAY DID IT MY SELF GOD BLESS YOU...
Thank you so much for this. Excellent video.
Thanks a lot for your help.
I use a C clamp for compressing the caliper piston.
Helped me out a ton great video
Enormously helpful- Thx! First step: buy a 7mm allen key!
Very well put together video but I got one question is the rear brakes in the same cuz mine are making a lot of noise it's almost like metal on metal
Should be similar. Sometimes the rear brakes on certain cars have a piston that has to be rotated as it goes in. Not sure if the Mazda is this way.
@@JoDaddysGarage thank you so much Jo Daddy's appreciate it man keep up the good work keep those videos coming in and u have yourself a great day
Excellent video and explanations. Thanks!
Where did you place the jack stand? It looks like it's under the car but it doesn't look like it's engaged and supporting the car.
It is there just in case the jack were to fail. It's under the engine cradle.
Place it just in case of a jack fail!
so no clips on thos kind of breaks?
Excellent job! Thanks!
Great video. I haven't started this process yet, but does this vehicle have drums in the rear or is it pads for all 4 tires?
Drums.
You just saved me a 100 bucks
Wow, this video was very helpfull, I was looking for something like this, thanks for taking the time to teach everybody how to do it, greetings from Chile.
+kaiserlopitecus You're welcome.
Should the brake fluid reservoir cap be taken off before compressing the caliper piston? Any chance the ABS sensor could be damaged if it were left on during compression?
You can remove the cap if you want. I usually do so I can monitor the fluid level easier. It
is unlikely that the sensor would be damaged unless it was pinched or hit in some way.
When a garage replaces all four wheels' brake pads (only), or with new rotors, do they automatically drain and replace the new
fresh blake fluid, or just kind of top it off? I just had four new pads put on my Mazda3 2017, and I have no idea if they did the
fluid too, or not.
Unlikely. They may drain the reservoir, and add some fresh, but otherwise they would have to crack open lines, refill, and bleed.
Jo Daddy's Garage I see, gotcha, total closed system. Same with tranny fluid, I guess.
Good effin job!! You have explained to me what others have failed to explain and that is the brake fluid master cylinder. Thank you very much. A question i have is if my pedal sinks all the way down, how can i get it to be where i had it where i barely pressed the brake pedal and the car would begin to slow down immediately.
If you could send me a video of that id appreciate it alot.
Thanks. Your pedal travel is too long? Did you replace a part? Air in the lines?
It's a wonder of the universe that those clips just stay in during day to day driving. Can't they come up with a locking system, tho?
I have one more question, if you please. Changed all pads successfully and thanks to you video, but now the peddle feels very spongy and requires more pressure. I made sure the header tank didn't evacuate. May I ask a further help? Down Under
Did you take it for a drive?
Very educational. More detailed than most others on youtube. There's just one thing: after the new disc pads has been replaced, do you pump the brakes when the brake fluid reservoir cap has already been re-tightened or whilst the cap is still open?
It can be done either way, but it's best to have the cap on.
Jo Daddy's Garage, Thank you :)
Thank you very much.. gonna do this tomorrow
Very helpful, thanks.
thank you!!! the video was really helpful
Nice video. I noticed you didn't use any anti-squeal lubricant on the back of the pads. I always thought that was important, no?
did you have to have the rotors cut ?
No. I never cut rotors. Better off just replacing them.
thanks for the reply back god bless you
Thanks for your video!
Great tutorial!
Hi, does the Ford Focus 2006 brake pads(rear and front) is compatible with Mazda 3 2006?
Good question, but I don't know for sure. They should be similar.
I think..Mazda..used same parts as Ford...Mazda.....and Ford shared parts...
should you bleed the brake system?
No need unless you opened a line or replaced a caliper.
hi can you tell me where to buy this tools to push the piston?
+Daniel Ulysse I bought this one at my local parts store. Advance auto parts, Auto Zone, O'Reilly, NAPA. They should all have it.
Jo Daddy's Garage ok thank you..i couldn't hear where you said you bought it on the video that's why i asked. Thank you for that :)
What are the torque specs for the bolts?
I don't know. You can probably find them online though.
@@JoDaddysGarage Thanks! Great video
Should you get the rotors resurfaced?
+MICHAEL CASTANON Not necessary unless there's a vibration. and at that point I just put new rotors on.
Well explained 👍🏼
Whitch brand of the brake pads did you use in replacement ?
I believe they were Wagner ceramic (gold).
Gracias pero segun los manuales de servicio se deve aflojar el grifo de purga para que la bomba de freno no sufra daño alguno
Is this the same for a 2017 CX-3 ?
Can't say for sure, but it should be very similar.
so once i press the brake pedal it will tighten it out at the end when it was loose?
+Savagesd1017 Glo Yes. It make a few pumps.
thanks
Compressor tool is nice but c clamps work just fine
great video thanks
Good video
Thanks dude!
Good work thank you 😊
I've done brakes on a bunch of my vehicles. No problem. This damn car royally pissed me off.
Thanks!
21 mm, 7mm Allen head, flat screw driver, pliers, compression tool or wood clamps or vice grips or what ever, turkey baseter,
thank you Sir
!st class video thanks
I thought you were supposed to resurface the rotors
No reason to unless they are warped. Even then, I would replace the rotors.
nice job
My piston is stuck
Replace the caliper.
08:46 BAM!, rotor contaminated by greasy finger! Left a grease print behind too
+MtnXfreeride Uh... okay. Shadows are not made from grease... Thanks for watching though.
Thank you
Very well done. I am ready to attack my own.
Thank you :)
Thank you soooo much!
Thanh you share clip