Very nice tutorial. I commend you for showing that grease should only be applied on the part of caliper that come in contact with the break pad. That is the proper way to apply grease. Some folks here at YT put grease all over the back of the break pad and that is actually unnecessary and would just attract dust and dirt to stick. Great job! Greetings from Japan, the home of Mazda!
Great video. I had the exact same issue, 6+ hours smashing away at the rotor until the hat or hub part of it completely separated from the disk. It was an absolute nightmare. To make it worse I got so frustrated that while I was hitting so hard and frequent, I inadvertently contacted a couple of wheel studs.. of course this stripped the threading and I had to replace those too. A little lesson to share with everyone is if you have to smash away, I learned the hard way to put the lug nuts on loosely to cover them. They’re so much easier to replace than the studs themselves.
These mazda rotors are no joke to remove. Good point on the lug nuts. I want to do the rears in the spring, but don't know if I want to suffer like I did removing the front rotors.
@@DIYNorth I hear ya lol. I ended up doing all 4 that time around, and took me almost 2 whole days with replacing the studs. But the good part was for me was that the rears were nowhere near as bad as the fronts and the rotors came off with just a couple of good smacks. Hopefully you’ll have the same turn of luck there.
18:35 coming to a complete stop will just make the coating of brake material on the rotor a little less even. When bedding your brakes all you're doing is smearing brake pad material onto the rotor so they grip better and more reliably, it's not necessarily a required procedure as it will happen slowly with normal driving.
I feel your pain when it comes to a 'simple' step like removing the old rotors. I ran into rusted flap cover bolts on my old mazda 3 when I wanted to get underneath my engine area. What should have taken me minutes to remove the flap bolts became a few hours ordeal because I lost 2 bolt heads before I realized I needed to cut around them on the flaps and just accepted that they were rusted on forever. With a dremel cutter, hours later, eventually I got the under engine water flap guard removed.That was frustrating. Now on my newer mazda 3 I removed and covered the flap bolts with generous amounts of anti-sieze. Now on my rotors, I'm gonna do mine today. Crossing my fingers it will just take a few taps with my own small sledge hammer to remove.....🙃
@@DIYNorth so...yeah...my 2 day Memorial Weekend brake days turned a cluster with the driver side rotors. Passenger side popped with assist of 5 ton puller from Harbor Freight. ....driver side? lots of liquid wrench(2 days overnight), hammering, big hammering, propane torch, 5 ton puller, and rental 7 ton puller...FINALLY 10 ton puller (I KNEW I should have picked up for extra 10$ that 10 Ton..) got it off Tuesday night. yeah. and the brakes and calipers took like an hour tops to remove and put new ones on.(includes cleaning). Rotors suck! lol
When I got to the step to take the first rotor off my 2011 Mazda 3 and 30 minutes of hacking it with a hammer and no movement I put everything back together and brought it to a shop to get it done.
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Very nice tutorial. I commend you for showing that grease should only be applied on the part of caliper that come in contact with the break pad. That is the proper way to apply grease. Some folks here at YT put grease all over the back of the break pad and that is actually unnecessary and would just attract dust and dirt to stick. Great job! Greetings from Japan, the home of Mazda!
Thanks for watching.
Hope all is well in Japan.
Great video. I had the exact same issue, 6+ hours smashing away at the rotor until the hat or hub part of it completely separated from the disk. It was an absolute nightmare. To make it worse I got so frustrated that while I was hitting so hard and frequent, I inadvertently contacted a couple of wheel studs.. of course this stripped the threading and I had to replace those too. A little lesson to share with everyone is if you have to smash away, I learned the hard way to put the lug nuts on loosely to cover them. They’re so much easier to replace than the studs themselves.
These mazda rotors are no joke to remove. Good point on the lug nuts.
I want to do the rears in the spring, but don't know if I want to suffer like I did removing the front rotors.
@@DIYNorth I hear ya lol. I ended up doing all 4 that time around, and took me almost 2 whole days with replacing the studs. But the good part was for me was that the rears were nowhere near as bad as the fronts and the rotors came off with just a couple of good smacks. Hopefully you’ll have the same turn of luck there.
18:35 coming to a complete stop will just make the coating of brake material on the rotor a little less even. When bedding your brakes all you're doing is smearing brake pad material onto the rotor so they grip better and more reliably, it's not necessarily a required procedure as it will happen slowly with normal driving.
Thanks for the input
Best brake job explanation for the Mazda 3 yet!
Thanks for checking it out. Those rotors are pigs to remove.
I feel your pain when it comes to a 'simple' step like removing the old rotors. I ran into rusted flap cover bolts on my old mazda 3 when I wanted to get underneath my engine area. What should have taken me minutes to remove the flap bolts became a few hours ordeal because I lost 2 bolt heads before I realized I needed to cut around them on the flaps and just accepted that they were rusted on forever. With a dremel cutter, hours later, eventually I got the under engine water flap guard removed.That was frustrating. Now on my newer mazda 3 I removed and covered the flap bolts with generous amounts of anti-sieze. Now on my rotors, I'm gonna do mine today. Crossing my fingers it will just take a few taps with my own small sledge hammer to remove.....🙃
Good luck on those rotors.
@@DIYNorth so...yeah...my 2 day Memorial Weekend brake days turned a cluster with the driver side rotors. Passenger side popped with assist of 5 ton puller from Harbor Freight. ....driver side? lots of liquid wrench(2 days overnight), hammering, big hammering, propane torch, 5 ton puller, and rental 7 ton puller...FINALLY 10 ton puller (I KNEW I should have picked up for extra 10$ that 10 Ton..) got it off Tuesday night. yeah. and the brakes and calipers took like an hour tops to remove and put new ones on.(includes cleaning). Rotors suck! lol
@@darkherostar lol....mazda 3 brakes are wild. My nissan pathfinder rotor almost fell off the vehicle without touching them.
When I got to the step to take the first rotor off my 2011 Mazda 3 and 30 minutes of hacking it with a hammer and no movement I put everything back together and brought it to a shop to get it done.
Its shockingly difficult.
@@DIYNorth quoted me at $750 for brakes and rotors on all 4 tires. Worth the price having them do it over me.
@moddkilla that's not too bad
Very helpful video. Thanks
Thanks for checking it out.
If the rotor ever doesn’t come off heat up the center part of the rotor and proceed to hit around with a rotor it will loosen up after about 20 shots
Good info