Mr. Cool DIY Heat Pump Ducted Universal Part 5 Installing the Indoor Unit
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- All the Items I used to build my system.
amzn.to/3whjPJ2 Mr. Cool 4/5 Ton outdoor unit with Air Handler and 25ft Lineset
amzn.to/3wgGeX6 35A Breaker Outdoor Unit
amzn.to/3ShxokW 15A Breaker Indoor unit
amzn.to/3pxlhn6 Concrete Anchors
amzn.to/3T0YoFT Masonry Drill Bit
amzn.to/3K5AHbs Nylog BLUE thread gasket sealant
amzn.to/3Kb2YO2 Tube Bender
amzn.to/3A70ziM Allen Wrench Set
amzn.to/3wfLtGg Crescent Wrench
amzn.to/3AIYDi1 Thermostat Wire
amzn.to/3KmwiRP R410 Manfold Set
amzn.to/3pvYY0V Ball Valve for Manfold
amzn.to/3pwjwGx Impact Drill (mine is no longer made but this one will work)
amzn.to/3T2c4QW 3/8 Pipe Insulation
amzn.to/3PvnQ3u 3/4 Pipe Insulation
amzn.to/3pT9NdP Metal Strapping
amzn.to/3AzvBRI Washable Filter
amzn.to/3BKrMbR HVAC Tape
amzn.to/3fkj0K3 Sheet Metal Bending Tool
amzn.to/3OYiJJH Sheet Metal Cutting Tool
amzn.to/3r8Qgqk Anemometer
Is there a reset button on the indoor handler board? I'm getting a E1 code and E4 code which means the indoor is not communicating with the outside. This system has given me so much problems with leaks then the compressor went out
Not that I know of. The only communication is the indoor unit telling the outdoor unit what mode it's in and to turn on.... unless they put some other communication stuff in there with newer units. The brains are in the outdoor unit.
The lineset connection is the most critical. Did you use any nylog on the threads to prevent leaks? Where are the leaks? This could affect your compressor as well.
@@stem_saving1644 the company doesn't want to help with the warranty on anything. I might just throw this junk in the trash an d just take the loss and install a new unit that's not from China shit lol
Great Video! Does it have a condensate drain overflow switch included?
@spydermaaaan no, i check and flush every year.
@@stem_saving1644 ok. Thanks !
Maybe this is a new thing but the instructions very clearly in very large print say to NOT use ANYTHING on the threads for the condenser line. I bet they had many failed installs and finally had to put that in the instructions.
I'm wondering if it's because people put plumbers tape around there? Lol. I have heard people do that. Unless it's causes threads to rust (which I can't see why) I don't see why? Mine has been running fine.
Thank you for the great video series.
Could you please take a picture of final wiring inside your Lux thermostat? I also have a Lux thermostat and in the video you show what the wiring looked like on your prior system. Thanks
BTW I just received by Mr. cool 4/5 ton system. I have purchased a number of the parts and tools using your affiliate link.
Thanks for the feedback. My thermostat has the blue connected to B. Everything else is the same in the video. Y &W jumpered together. Hope that helps
Great! Thank you for the quick reply
Wonder if Mr cool has a 48 volt ducted heat pump. Would be really nice to come right off the battery packs and not have a 240 power inverter in the line.
Doubtful, your looking at 150A at full power. You'd need a large battery bank to run this.
I have my outside and inside units installed but have not done the lineset yet. My units are not that far apart. Did you have any issues with the linesets being to long and if so how did you handle it, did you change the routing to get it to fit that well or get lucky, or do you have a loop some where? Using all 15 feet of the lineset to go 10 feet has me concerned, but have not gotten back to the cabin to finish yet. Any advice or tips on running the line sets would be great from your experience.
Mine were about 3ft longer than needed. I just used some 8awg grounding wire to map out a path. Didn't really need to. Just do a couple extra bends with smaller line as it's easier to bend. Then follow using bigger line. Hope that helps.
The wiring, on the manual it looks like the temp control is used as a hub, but looks like you used the air handler as a hub, is that correct? Or how do they need to be connected?
Not sure what your meaning as hub? All the connections are made at the air handler.... but you can really make them anywhere....as long as the wires are all connected per the diagram.
@@stem_saving1644 alright, by hub I tried to say where the most connection are at. Wasn't sure if I needed to run a wire all the way to the thermostat for each condenser and air handler or if I could run a wire from the condenser to air handler and wire from thermostat to handler.
Electrically, they are the same. Most set ups have outdoor unit wire ran to air handler then to thermostat.
@@stem_saving1644 thank you
While installing the line set connections, you mention "adapters". Are these included or do they have to be purchased separately? I was suprised that the line set fittings were different sizes than those on the air handler and outside unit, but maybe I missed something in your explanation.
Adapters are included with the lineset. The reason they exist is so you can make your own flared lineset or use their lineset. It's pretty nifty.
Thanks so much for the reply! And you're exactly right - that's a great idea - especially since they're included!
@@faystroud9039 I didn't want to flare and vacuum my own lineset. This was a perfect setup.
Oh I have another question my current gas furnace is horizontal, not vertical will that make a difference to the heat pump indoor unit?
It will work either way.
@@stem_saving1644 thanks
Do you have to adjust the 4 ton or 5 ton switches on both the air handler and the outside unit? Or just the outside unit?
Both sides need to be configured
I was thinking of going geo when we start building next year, but this universal looks like a real game changer. I could even install this unit in our build to save money vs a hvac putting in a natural gas system. Being honest here I skipped through your video, but can you do zone heating with the universal?
Most geo systems I've seen have desuper heaters so you could contribute to your got water.
I don't know why that's not a more common feature on HVAC systems
Anything can be done it's the question of cost and complexity. For summer it makes sense. In winter the HP reaches a COP of around 2-2.5... where a HP water heater is in the 3 to 4 range. Don't forget all the piping complexity that goes with it.
@@stem_saving1644 I can agree to that as an overview.
Me personally, I live in Florida and mostly deal with cooling my house. Dumping heat into my water heater and maybe diverting some of it to my pool would be nice.
The cost of the digging is insane and requires flow centers and pumps. The new gen inverters have a much higher cost return. The only exception would be if you are going to own your not so energy efficient house thru several replacements of the system. IE you dont have to replace the fields or wells and just the unit.
I have the same system the unit start cooling and then eventually it stops. I was thinking of removing the blue wire when it's cooling so the valve stays in the cool permanently. Olive in south Florida so I would never need heat lol. I wonder if that would work.
?????? What size of circular duct did you use on your retorn unit ???? Thankyou for your videos
I have a return plenum. Roughly 16x25. All supply vents are 6" ducts. Every house is different. Need to make sure you have adequate air flow and pressure drop.
Thankyou
Did your indoor unit require a 220 line? Or were you able to use the 120 line you showed with the outlet.
I had to run 240 line. You could do a 120v to 240 transformer, but it won't be energy efficient.
@@stem_saving1644 Thanks. I just got my Mr. Cool system and your videos match my scenario. Thank you for making them.
Your welcome. I think you'll be happy with it. I'm finishing my results for the summer, so subscribe if you want notifications!
I have my return on the bottom like yours just on the other side. Do i have to make my own retur
You will need to build a stand to raise the unit up
@@stem_saving1644 got it. I can probably buy one too
Which thermostat is compatible with me cool heat pump 5 tons?
You'll need to research that. I can only tell you the one in the video works for me.
how big of a space are you heating? Wondering how to size these thing....
I'm cooling 1600 in the summer, 3200 in the winter. Rule of thumb is 1 ton per 600sqft
@@stem_saving1644 interested to see how it does, mind saying what part of the country your in? how cold?
We get both extremes for weather 100f in the summer and teens in the winter. It's done well for both. No heating strips required.
Bought 2 of these monsters… what did I do? 6000 sq feet so…. I guess I’m good.
I'm considering putting the the same indoor and out door unit, what is the square foot area you are covering with your system?
1600 for summer cooling 3200 for winter heating.
@@stem_saving1644 thank you so much! That is similar to my sq foot, 1800 cooling 2600 heating. I noticed you didn't have any emergency/aux heat installed. What kind of low temps do you see in the winter?
We see temps for worst case in the 10s. Had no issues keeping up.
Ah we see temps well into -20s, trying to figure our which heater the get
It's good down to -22 at a derated capacity. Worst case, get the heat strips?
I have a ??? How many amp breaker you put on your unit Air Handler 60A or 15A
15a breaker
@@stem_saving1644 thankyou so much
@@aaronnunez292 your welcome. But be sure your breaker is sized to protect the wire. I'm running 12awg. If you are running smaller gauge, keep that in mind.
OMG! That 4 ton system is too big for your for your 3 ton house. Did you even get a heat load calculation? And using duct tape to seal. geez beasties.
No it's not. Need 4 ton for 3200sqft of heating.
These are inverter systems, the old systems you couldn’t oversized, these modern inverter systems don’t have that issue of short cycles, although the sizing seems correct anyway