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STEM_SAVING
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Добавлен 21 июн 2012
This channel is dedicated to using Science, Technology, Engineering, and Math to save money with DIY projects and renewable energy.
Enphase IQ7A Solar Inverter Failure Rate 27%
Black MC4 Cable amzn.to/3zYO7oM
Red and Black MC4 Cables amzn.to/3WNNk37
Deans Connectors amzn.to/4fkIgu3
Power Meter amzn.to/4df2q6W
Red and Black MC4 Cables amzn.to/3WNNk37
Deans Connectors amzn.to/4fkIgu3
Power Meter amzn.to/4df2q6W
Просмотров: 175
Видео
Mr. Cool Universal Heat Pump 3 Years of Results of Winter Data for Heating
Просмотров 5083 месяца назад
Tools and parts used to install outdoor unit amzn.to/3whjPJ2 Mr. Cool 4/5 Ton outdoor unit with Air Handler and 25ft Lineset amzn.to/3wgGeX6 35A Breaker amzn.to/3pxlhn6 Concrete Anchors amzn.to/3T0YoFT Masonry Drill Bit amzn.to/3K5AHbs Nylog BLUE thread gasket sealant amzn.to/3Kb2YO2 Tube Bender amzn.to/3A70ziM Allen Wrench Set amzn.to/3wfLtGg Crescent Wrench amzn.to/3AIYDi1 Thermostat Wire amz...
Mr. Cool Heat Pump Universal Operating at 100F Cool Inside at 78F!
Просмотров 728Год назад
All the Items I used to build my system. amzn.to/3whjPJ2 Mr. Cool 4/5 Ton outdoor unit with Air Handler and 25ft Lineset amzn.to/3wgGeX6 35A Breaker Outdoor Unit amzn.to/3ShxokW 15A Breaker Indoor unit amzn.to/3pxlhn6 Concrete Anchors amzn.to/3T0YoFT Masonry Drill Bit amzn.to/3K5AHbs Nylog BLUE thread gasket sealant amzn.to/3Kb2YO2 Tube Bender amzn.to/3A70ziM Allen Wrench Set amzn.to/3wfLtGg Cr...
Can Cellular Shades Reduce Heat Loss in the Winter?
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.Год назад
I used Allen and Roth Shades www.lowes.com/pd/allen-roth-White-Light-Filtering-Cordless-Cellular-Shade-Actual-45-5-in-x-64-in/1000581627 Convection Looping picture used from: chesapeakethermal.com/windows-drafty-or-convection/
Mr Cool Heat Pump Universal Operating at -7F Nice and Warm Inside No need for Natural Gas
Просмотров 3,6 тыс.Год назад
All the Items I used to build my system. amzn.to/3whjPJ2 Mr. Cool 4/5 Ton outdoor unit with Air Handler and 25ft Lineset amzn.to/3wgGeX6 35A Breaker Outdoor Unit amzn.to/3ShxokW 15A Breaker Indoor unit amzn.to/3pxlhn6 Concrete Anchors amzn.to/3T0YoFT Masonry Drill Bit amzn.to/3K5AHbs Nylog BLUE thread gasket sealant amzn.to/3Kb2YO2 Tube Bender amzn.to/3A70ziM Allen Wrench Set amzn.to/3wfLtGg Cr...
Mr. Cool DIY Heat Pump Ducted Universal Part 5 Installing the Indoor Unit
Просмотров 14 тыс.Год назад
All the Items I used to build my system. amzn.to/3whjPJ2 Mr. Cool 4/5 Ton outdoor unit with Air Handler and 25ft Lineset amzn.to/3wgGeX6 35A Breaker Outdoor Unit amzn.to/3ShxokW 15A Breaker Indoor unit amzn.to/3pxlhn6 Concrete Anchors amzn.to/3T0YoFT Masonry Drill Bit amzn.to/3K5AHbs Nylog BLUE thread gasket sealant amzn.to/3Kb2YO2 Tube Bender amzn.to/3A70ziM Allen Wrench Set amzn.to/3wfLtGg Cr...
Mr. Cool DIY Heat Pump Part 4 Installing the outdoor unit ducted universal
Просмотров 16 тыс.2 года назад
Tools and parts used to install outdoor unit amzn.to/3whjPJ2 Mr. Cool 4/5 Ton outdoor unit with Air Handler and 25ft Lineset amzn.to/3wgGeX6 35A Breaker amzn.to/3pxlhn6 Concrete Anchors amzn.to/3T0YoFT Masonry Drill Bit amzn.to/3K5AHbs Nylog BLUE thread gasket sealant amzn.to/3Kb2YO2 Tube Bender amzn.to/3A70ziM Allen Wrench Set amzn.to/3wfLtGg Crescent Wrench amzn.to/3AIYDi1 Thermostat Wire amz...
Mr. Cool DIY Heat Pump Removing the Gas Furnace Part 3
Просмотров 4,1 тыс.2 года назад
Removing Natural Gas furnace and replacing with a Heat Pump Mr Cool 4/5 Ton Heat Pump amzn.to/3nxKJYq Tin Snips amzn.to/3OYdjOf
Nokian Entyre 2.0 Review Do tires matter for EV's. What the tire did to my range.
Просмотров 9402 года назад
I travel between 35-45 miles each trip and keep speeds to 60-62 on the highway. 95% of the commute is highway. I seen a loss in efficiency from 4.4miles/kwh to 4.1 vs the Ecopia 422 Your mileage will vary, but should be similar.
DIY Solar does solar really work?
Просмотров 2262 года назад
Brief intro into showing that solar does work. I have 54 roof mount panels and 11 ground mount panels.
What the 80% Software Update did to the 2021 Chevy Bolt
Просмотров 3,9 тыс.2 года назад
I was never able to get the 80% capacity that GM constrained the battery to. This should be 207 miles under standard conditions when fully charged.
Save Money On filters for Neato Eufy, Shark...etc. Make your own pre-filter and save money
Просмотров 1052 года назад
Save Money On filters for Neato Eufy, Shark...etc. Make your own pre-filter and save money
Chevy Bolt Recall Battery Charging Issues and LOUD Cooling FANS. Observed Weirdness.
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.2 года назад
Chevy Bolt Recall Battery Charging Issues and LOUD Cooling FANS. Observed Weirdness.
How to Calculate KWH, What is a KWH (KiloWattHour)
Просмотров 753 года назад
How to calculate energy usage
DIY Heat Pump Hot Water Heater 7 Year review
Просмотров 6773 года назад
DIY Heat Pump Hot Water Heater 7 Year review
DIY Mr. Cool Heat Pump Installing and Pouring The Concrete Pad Part 2
Просмотров 13 тыс.3 года назад
DIY Mr. Cool Heat Pump Installing and Pouring The Concrete Pad Part 2
DIY A/C Repair No Fan No Compressor NO COOLING Repair your own air conditioner
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.3 года назад
DIY A/C Repair No Fan No Compressor NO COOLING Repair your own air conditioner
DIY Mr. Cool Heat Pump DIY HVAC Unboxing Part 1
Просмотров 26 тыс.3 года назад
DIY Mr. Cool Heat Pump DIY HVAC Unboxing Part 1
Should You Clean Snow Off Solar Panels Using the Snow Brum?
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.3 года назад
Should You Clean Snow Off Solar Panels Using the Snow Brum?
DIY Dryer Heat Recovery Deflecto Heat Reclaimer Save Money on Electric Bills
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.3 года назад
DIY Dryer Heat Recovery Deflecto Heat Reclaimer Save Money on Electric Bills
DIY Battery Desulfator Battery Restoration Fix Your Own 12v Dead Lead Acid Battery
Просмотров 8 тыс.3 года назад
DIY Battery Desulfator Battery Restoration Fix Your Own 12v Dead Lead Acid Battery
Eneloop 2550 NimH Battery Review Are they worth the cost?
Просмотров 1153 года назад
Eneloop 2550 NimH Battery Review Are they worth the cost?
DIY 2008 Hyundai 2.7L Santa Fe Air Filter Change Simple and Cheap
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.4 года назад
DIY 2008 Hyundai 2.7L Santa Fe Air Filter Change Simple and Cheap
DIY 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe 2008 2.7L Oil Change
Просмотров 16 тыс.4 года назад
DIY 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe 2008 2.7L Oil Change
No more Electric Bills Electrical Netzero
Просмотров 834 года назад
No more Electric Bills Electrical Netzero
Can Solar PV Panels Keep Your House Cooler?
Просмотров 3914 года назад
Can Solar PV Panels Keep Your House Cooler?
Troy Bilt Weed Eater String Timmer Repair TB465SS DIY Repair Stalling When Given Gas
Просмотров 5 тыс.4 года назад
Troy Bilt Weed Eater String Timmer Repair TB465SS DIY Repair Stalling When Given Gas
Duct Muffler Duct Silencer for Loud Booster Fans
Просмотров 36 тыс.4 года назад
Duct Muffler Duct Silencer for Loud Booster Fans
Confirm what the valve connects to for on/off ! Very interested. I'm building today !
It's connected to your small thermostat wires, just like in my videos. The 26v not the 240 volt. These are the small wires.
The irrigation pvc is 1/2" ? But the on/off 240volt sprinkler valve is 3/4" fittings ?? Please confirm!
It's a 26v sprinkler valve, not 240.. There are multiple types with different size inputs. Simple 3/4 to 1/2 adapter would make it work.
HTG has them for $35 + shipping.
Cool, can you customize their length or fill?
Great Video! Does it have a condensate drain overflow switch included?
@spydermaaaan no, i check and flush every year.
@@stem_saving1644 ok. Thanks !
Instead of replacing the windows, I just put exterior solar screens on my west facing windows. This is a lot more cost effective.
Yes, screens do work well, but if you're in mixed climates, new windows can't be beat as they provide heating and cooling reduction.
Is your system set to the 4 ton or 5 ton setting in the video? I'd like to set mine to 5 ton but I can't find that diagram in the instructions
Mine is 4. Instructions are also on line.
July 2024. We live in SoCal Desert. Using AC at 77° for 8 hrs (11am to 7pm during summer) total house consumption is 44kWh. Increasing degrees to 80° consumption is 30kWh. Utility Co charges $0.38 per KWh. Basically $17 per day ($510 monthly) vs $12 per day ($360 monthly). All rough estimates. I do use a swamp cooler for the night (running electricity consumption already accounted for in these numbers). I also have an old AC unit. I want to test this also to add to our savings. Every cent counts towards our annual 7 day vacation during thanksgiving week in All Inclusive Resorts in Mexico beaches....cheers!
Great, you keep such good numbers! I also looked into precooling before temps get hot. Seems to work as well. Using rain water offers the cleanest water. If you have hard water, you'll need a filter of some sort..... You're absolutely right. Every bit helps.
Exelent review, that output drop on the short circuit test reminds me of a crowbar circuit.
Thanks!
Yes, the mister reduces the use of power and cooler air from the air ducts. After two years of using this mister on your condenser, what happens to the cooling coils? Did it start to deteriorate or dissolve due to electrolysis being constantly wet when the condenser turns on? give it another two to three years of use now your colling will all be dissolved by corrosions and now time to replace the condenser which in today costs 2024 approx $10K-15K
Nope, sorry, Mister worked for a good 5 years. Upgraded to a heat pump and going to reinstall soon. The condenser doesn't cost 10k unless you're getting scammed. I installed an entire system for under 4k
Mrcool is the worst brand you can buy. Mine didn't last 6 months from new
We have different data points, mine has worked for 3 years, and there are no issues.
This Mrcool brand is worst you could ever buy. Mine broke down several times in less than a year. Then i replaced it with a Carrier. Learned my lesson
So, baerd off your single data point, you're extrapolating to the entire population? I have had mine for 3 years with no issues and have been happy with it. Maybe yours was installed incorrectly? I hate to extrapolate on one data point. Can you cite failure rates ?
@@stem_saving1644 My Ac Technician said he's had to replace a bunch of these unit that are made in china. Also the warranty department is terrible. Go look at Yelp reviews with one star out of 5. Better Business Bureau is loaded with complaints.
Who put your unit in, and what failed? I agree that the service depth is hard to reach when you have questions.
@@stem_saving1644 Tech laughed when he saw the unit he was going to install. He's a friend of mine. He told me I should have asked him before buying this brand. First six months everything was fine then the air handler got a major leak. Then after that they actually sent another coil that was defective. My friend said these are China made junk. Then 6 months later the compressor was making a loud noise and eventually crapped out. Warranty department is the worst by the way
I heard this as well. When things go wrong, information is scarce, and other companies are hesitant to work on it.
Sounds like a recipe to accelerate corrosion
So when it rains..... I guess it's the same thing?
@stem_saving1644 Yes, i say accelerated because I highly doubt it rains every time your ac unit runs
My point being they are designed to be outside. Mines has been working for 21 years of getting wet, before i replaced it with a heat pump. Most have aluminum fins, which won't rust.
@stem_saving1644 im stoked you had a good run there are always outliers in any statistical system. I think your vastly over simplifying the situation. Your correct aluminum is used for its corrosion resistance properties. The oxide layer formed by aluminium lends pretty heavily to its continued corrosion resistance by atmospheric sources. But that's not all your going to be facing. There is galvanic corrosion anywhere dissimilar materials meet, in the case you hook one of these up to tap water your facing a whole new set of corrosive stresses including chlorine, sulfer, fluoride, iron calcium etc. Which will factor into not just corrosion but build up on the radiator causing thermal transmission to drop. Rain water is going to be relatively clear of the chlorine and fluoride additives but is subject to any atmospheric pollution. And water from the condensate drain would be subject to any pollution from the system upstream of your collection point. So air pollution in your home plus any corrosion upstream in your system, rusty drain, corrosion in copper etc. I want to be clear there definitely steps you could take to mitigate these factors and if your helping an older system hang on a few yrs before you replace the system is effective.
@BaffledBelief I wouldn't say I'm the only one, statistically. Lots of other data points out there. I do use rain water, which is the purest method of mostly contaminant free water.
I bought one that was 480 watt 12volt to 24 volt and have had great results. I ran a zerobreeze mk2 "240 watt" off it many times for extended periods. Maybe the boost converters are better built.
@wingman0114 thanks for the post. Interesting results, which brand.
@@stem_saving1644 MGGI
You are not using your thermometer and thermal camera in the right ways. Infrared is still light, so you are not measuring what you think you are measuring when you point your instruments at transparent and/or reflective surfaces like films and windows. There is also the emissivity of each surface to consider when trying to use these tools. It gets very complex. Instead, do it easier and with thermometers: install the film on one of your windows in a ventilated room with some air circulation, like a fan. Take two of something that absorbs light well, like an unglazed terracotta pot or a black plastic planter. Fill the pots with the same temperature water, place one on each windowsill, then measure at intervals with the same thermometer. Such a setup will be more analogous to relative real world results with the film, and circumvent some of your measurement problems.
There aren't any problems, it's simple physics... simply look at the temp of shades down. Around 100F. That implies behind the shade is even hotter. Which follows logically what the temp and imager are measuring. When you put your hand on the film you can feel the difference. Sure your can do all the things you suggested, but why if the tools I have can do the same job without all the hassle with trying to conduct a science experiment?
@@stem_saving1644 I am trying to gently tell you that there are problems with how you are using your tools. I can lead you to the river, not force you to drink. But I urge you to on your own time and from sources you trust look into emissivity and reflectivity, which affects the readings from both your thermal camera and your infrared thermometer. Look into the Fluke 62 MAX infrared thermometer, similar form factor to your Ryobi. The Fluke has a setting for emissivity from 0.1 to 1. What does changing that setting do to the measurements from the Fluke? Why do they even have such a setting? Like you say yourself, you are not conducting a science experiment, but replacing the hassle of doing one with what you read on the displays of your tools. But what if those readings are incorrect, then where does that leave your video? And as I believe you will discover if you decide to look into it, they are incorrect. Do the science experiment please. It's very little hassle, literally two pots and a thermometer. Science is not about being sure, it is about making sure. Your results should only be confirmed with an experiment measuring the same thing in a different way. In this case however, I do not believe you will be able to replicate the results you show in this video if you choose to explore this from the two pots and a thermometer angle.
@ringpolitiet check out the window casing itself. No alleged emissivity issues, but also almost virtually just as hot, which confirms the results. I'm not worried about a couple of degrees of error, as it's drowning out in heat. I didn't need a science experiment to confirm the results I could feel. It's good enough for govt work. I also recently replaced the set of windows below the ones with the film on them and the temps beteewn them were staggering. One was 140, the other 80. Can you guess which one was which?
@@stem_saving1644 I see there will be no drinking from the river today. Maybe tomorrow.
@@ringpolitiet don't need to drink from the river when you have water plumbed in at your house.
Over $4000 now.🤦♂️
Prices really spiked. It's still cheaper than a hvac tech to install.
Hello, if you apply 44 volts to the input, will it ruin it?
If you watch the end of the video you'll see.
I live in Arizona. I have also lived in New England and Texas. No matter where I have lived, when the ambient temperature of the condenser is lower (like when using a mister to reduce the ambient air temperature), it takes less electricity to cool the house to a constant temperature. I haven't checked other areas, but I assume if the difference in ambient temperature and inside temperature is less, it takes less energy to cool. That's probably universal. While some 'experts' may be correct that if the system was operating outside of its design parameters it could cause a problem, this isn't the case when reducing the ambient temperature from 100 to 80 or 90 to 70. If the drop is much more, the simple thing to do is open a window. If evaporation didn't absorb heat, these guys wouldn't have a job. All you did was build a swamp cooler for the AC. My daughter cools her whole house with a swamp cooler, so it must work. I have a concern and a question. My concern is scale buildup on the condenser coils. We have hard water where I live. Here is Arizona, we don't get enough rain water to use so I would be stuck with city water from my water softener. That's my concern. I saw your calculations for money saved and it makes perfect sense. My question is where do you live? What kind of ambient temps do you see and what is your typical humidity? What size is your AC? Here where I live, we're currently averaging around 106° and about 10-15% percent humidity. Low temps overnight tend to be around 78-82°. I am guessing I would see better savings than you. My unit is 3 tons. Thanks for your hard work.
Thanks for the thoughtful comment. I'm in the Midwest and we see temps in the mid 90s and sometimes a hundred. If you're using city water, definitely use a calcium filter. The hardness is something to test for or watch for. Humidity varies between 40 to 60% its quite a large range of conditions. Since you don't get much rain, I would invest in plastic cisterns 500 gallon or more, so when it does rain, you can capture a lot. Another thing to consider is precooling, running the ac really really early before it gets hot, this will also reduce power/ energy consumption as air into the condensor is cooler. I seen about a 15-20% decrease in doing this. The hotter the ambient temp.is the more savings you'll see with misters.. Hope that helps.
@@stem_saving1644 Thanks for the response. I am going to throw together some misters to test the effectiveness. I'll prbably use an irrigation valve, like you did. I live in a community where I don't have a lot of room outside so I'm not sure I could store that much water. First things first. I'll mist the condenser, test current and outlet temperature and see what the improvement is.
@mrschwarz1950 you could even use a garden hose with an adjustable sprayer for a test. Let me know what your results are for your area.
I live in Texas and every time I get a quote for a professionally installed solar system the payout looks between 16-20 years. Does that sound right to you? I don't know if I could realistically install it myself since he have a steep pitch and it's a two story home. Thanks!
It's really all dependent on your loads. The more efficient your house becomes, the smaller the system becomes. That's the key to getting quicker pay backs.
Don't worry it may be a pain in the ass but it's easy to do....
I HAVE A QUESTION? AT THAT TIME THE ENGINE SMELL LIKE GAS OR THERE'S WASN'T NO ODOR AND IF THE CODE P420 WAS PRESENT? THANKS FOR THE VIDEO.
No odor, just check engine light.
Any info on how the valve is wired?
Just like how it's wired in the video..... to the 26v signal coming from the small thermostat wires.
@@stem_saving1644 ok thank you. I was having trouble hearing that part of the video and wasn't sure.
same oil is now 18.99
Is it good that Foseal? Can it read and set something? Or just read and thats all? Santa 2006 2,7 139kw. Thank you.
You can read codes and reset them using torque lite
@@stem_saving1644 can you read all codes or just basic codes? Thank you
@Fastarrow12322 not sure what you mean. If there is a fault code, you can read it.
After you replaced it and reset engine light, how long did you drive the car, before knowing that the engine light is truly not coming back on?
Never came back on since it was reset. If it does, it could also be the gas cap or another leak.
Perfect thank you
I was thinking of.using comdestae drain pump then connect the ends with spray misters... Will the condensate pump create enough pressure for the misters
You will need 40-60psi of pressure condensate pump probably won't supply enough pressure or water.... depends on how many misters you run. I have 50 gallon barrels for my old mister.
I just left auto zone and I have a small leak, what do I do next ? 😭 I just bought the car last week
If it's the code in the video you can try replacing or tightening the gas cap or replacing the device in the video.
can you use the same ground wire for input and output ? if i am trying to use this in my car ?
If it's non isolated you should be able to.
@@stem_saving1644 i used 2 of this modules and used same ground no problem in my car
I think this might have been a pain in the ass. Thanks for the video
butt real simple.
Does the arrow go down or up towards the intake
Not sure what arrow you're referring to?
Oh boy… well if it’s stupid and it works then I guess it ain’t stupid. The lack of inflection in your voice screams “I know how this works because I’m an engineer.”
Not even sure what you're remotely talking about.
If we used sound insulation, would this be more effective?
Not sure what sound insulation is or what its characteristics are.
Can you please add a small component fan and see if it will last without overheating?
You didn't watch the end? Nothing left to work with.
I charge mine up to 75% and average number usually shows 242-246 miles. I do live in FL and 95% of my driving is city (50 mph or less) though, so the weather and type of driving definitely plays a huge role. I did charge it full for a longer road trip recently and it showed 317 miles.
3m prestige 60 rejects 53% TSER only on clear 1/8 single pane glass. For example, dual pane 1/8 clear glass rejects roughly 24% TSER without window film and around 20% more heat rejection with 3M Prestige 60. Read the normal section data on the sample card that you took that window film sample out of. I've been in the industry for 25 years. It's terrible that 3M makes this so confusing and doesn't make it very clear on the samples, but I explain this to all my customers. Another thing you are not measuring correctly is the surface before and after. You also need to measure the surface temperature of objects in your home. This is not easy to do, but the film reduces heat, just not as much as you were led to believe. Also, dual pane glass absorbs a lot of heat with these types of films. The best option for dual pane glass for heat rejects is metalized window films. I've worked in front of all these films for years and I can tell the difference because I'm much cooler when working with these films. 3M Prestige wasn't designed to block a lot of heat on dual panes. It's designed to block IR, UV, a little glare, and some heat without changing the aesthetics of the glass, and it performs much better on old single-pane glass. I recommended Prestige 70 & 60 for protecting furnishings. Another great option for dual pane heat rejection is exterior silver or ceramic film if you are okay with a shorter warranty and higher cost per sq. ft. These films perform best on the exterior surface of dual pane glass units because the heat is reflected before it enters the thermal pane.
The measurements are accurate, I measured both ways energy can enter the space. Radiant and convection. It's the total energy rejection that's what's important. If radiant energy is converted into heat and omitted, it's pointless. Which is why the film heats up so much. The film on the inside should not reach the levels of heat seen. Overall, the interior film is junk. I'll agree that exterior film is better as the heat can be dissipated via conduction.
@@stem_saving1644 It's not junk. It's just misunderstood by many because 3M has misleading specs. I rarely suggest these films if heat rejection is the primary goal. I've never been a big fan of 3M, but we use a lot of different brands and products since we have many different challenges and requests from our customers. I live where some people actually could use this film in the winter as a benefit of the heat absorption 🤣 🤣As I said before we mostly use 3M prestige on historic buildings or for customers that need to protect valuable furnishings and artwork from UV and IR. Have you tested a single-pane glass? We don't see much single-pane glass in the Northern States, but I believe it should perform better on single-pane glass since the heat can't get trapped in a dual-pane. Glass naturally absorbs more heat like asphalt roofs and driveways. This is why exterior metalized and ceramic films are more effective for heat rejection. Reflecting the heat away from the glass to reduce heat absorption is key. It's not as simple as it sounds when you realize glass and many materials on buildings and homes absorb the sun's heat quickly.
I have a 2020 Bolt with the software imposed limits and I'm getting about 140 on a level 2 overnight charge. Temperatures have been in the 35 - 45 degree range. The dealer analyzed the battery, says everything is fine with it, and that the charge #s I'm getting are reasonable. I get that this "reasonable" stndard suits GM but fact is I'm stuck with a battery that's performing far far below what I used to get. And note I've only driver 7500 miles since I bought the car. At this rate, I'll have the software imposed limitations for several more years. I don't call this reasonable. I call it GM not living up to its responsibility. I notice online that a law firm is working of a class action suit. I'm wondering if I should join in.
That's what's troubling for the software fix, if you take years to unlock the full capacity, then by the time it's unlocked, the warranty could be over. That was my gripe. If I'm paying for 259 miles, I had better get that or pay less if I'm getting less. The bolt got its pack replacement, and it seems to be doing well. Probably should make a video on it.
We are seeing the exact same thing. It dose not compute.
we used to stick plastic to our old single pane windows, that used to make a huge difference, especially with the wind whipping through. i have cell shades now and double pane windows, i keep them closed and it seems to help with the heat staying inside.
Just finished the 6K miles to do the battery check software update and I’m good to finally get 100% charge! Love being back to normal! I hate that “don’t take your eyes off the road” notice which forces you to take your eyes off the road to cancel it! Give that engineer the boot! Also it estimates by your actual driving, if you turn off the heat and drive it will guess 256 miles!
Good to hear. I'm thinking about getting a used 2020 bolt with the 6200 sw test/ charge limit.
@@stem_saving1644 also don’t let them tell you the shifter is a joy stick ,it is a slap stick! Move the console forward and use your finger tips to shift! Many complained that they can’t grab the joystick and in over 3 years driving it I never have! Hope you got the premier as the digital rear view mirror and over head camera are all I will own from now on! I can see 6 lanes of traffic behind me with no blind spots actually working better than full size truck mirrors!
You should know that the range changes according to your last trip
Shouldn't if the miles/kwh counter is cleared.
Thanks for making this video, I'll be in the market for a 2017 Chevy Bolt in 2024, and might have to replace the tires, so this video was helpful, I'm wondering what the best tires for maxium range efficiency would be? (I don't do a lot of agressive driving anymore, but I do want to be prepared for hanging on to this car for the next 5 to 10 years and that means only keeping the battery charged to 70% capacity and not letting it go below 20% capacity whenever possible) so for me range anxiety will still be an issue, as I'll be making deliverys with the Bolt part time to supplement my lousy SSI retirement income.
I'd would keep what the car came with. The leaft had ecopias, bolt had Michelen energy savers. I was able to get 4.3 miles/kwh on the bolt. Thanks for the feedback, consider subscribing.
Let me get this straight, you were inputting 37-40v into a 24v input converter then it blew after 3 days?
No, you missed the technical points
Awesome videos! Any idea how many watts your unit is consuming? I know it’s variable, but just curious, my old 3 ton unit uses 2850 watts when it’s running. About 2,000 for the condenser and 850 for the blower. Considering getting one of these units to replace it, as mine is about 15 years old.
Power in the summer 3500- 4500 and winter 5500-7k temp drives the power.
Uh uh uh.........um ....uh.....hmmm....um
I don't even know what my full range is. We leased our 2020 Bolt in March of 2021, not long after they recommended not to charge above 90%. I had it set at that until this week when I finally did the new software update. So far the range is really low, I also live in cold WI. I'll see what we are getting for full range and update soon.
So you didn't get a new pack? If you reset the range counter and don't use heat, that will tell you your true mileage. Warmer weather also increases this.
@@stem_saving1644No, 2020-2022 does not get a new battery unless the software flags it. You can only charge to 80% for 6,214 miles, if no problem is detected it automatically goes back 100% charge. Yes, running the heat drops range significantly, we also have had a Volt for 10 years, so we knew to expect that.
I guess if it's leased, it doesn't matter. If it's bought, I'd be making calls to get it replaced....I think they worked out the bugs now. Thinking about getting a second bolt. Leaf range is dropping, and I have to drive further now. Unfortunately, the msrp is still being pushed at the dealerships.
I just bought my 2021 Bolt Premier a week ago. The dealer charged the battery for me. It read 159 miles. I drove 70 mph all the way home. It was 110 miles. The temperature was 40 degrees Fahrenheit. I used no heat other than heated wheel and seat. I live in Wisconsin. I charged the car with L2. The range jumped up to 172 miles. The last four years, I have been driving a Chevrolet Spark EV. I run no heat in car or just to clear the windows. I use a 12v heated blanket across my lap, plus I dress warm. Most of my driving, is city driving. Next L2 charge, my range was 188. My last L2 charge, my range was was 208. My miles/kw is 4.6 . It helps, that temperature has been in 40's to low 50's degrees Fahrenheit. I hope this helps.
@bresina63 we finally got the battery replaced and are seeing similar numbers. I'm in the market for another 2021 bolt, any chance you'd share your purchase price? Curious to see what they are going for now. Did yours have the sw update or total replacement?
can you please share your power draw data? like how much the unit consumes over a month, Thanks.
Just posted
I see you were measuring amp draw. I've been tracking my compressor with the emporia power monitoring systems. My outdoor unit routinely draws 20 to 22 amps after ramp up. I was a bit surprised by this since the Rated Load Amps (RLA) on the data plate is 16 amps. I have a 2/3 ton unit setup in 3 ton mode. Do you have any idea if your outdoor unit draws more amps than what is listed on the data plate on the side of outdoor unit? I'm just trying to determine if this is normal. Thanks!
It does. Some control systems that have quick rise times will overshoot their average during ramp up. I seen mine did 7kw, but then damps down. It's the power usage (steady state) at the given temp that's important.... at least to me.
@@stem_saving1644 Just to be clear it is pulling 20 to 22 at steady state. I have plots from the emporia energy monitor and there really isn't an overshoot on my system. When the system had more vibration that I expected I started tracking amp draw because I was worried about the health of the compressor. I still don't understand how to reconcile the data plate saying 16 amps max and it pulling 20-22. Sometimes it hard to ignore things when you're an engineer.
@mtbphil168 The current should be proportional to the temp. Give or take a few watts. But yeah, I agree with your last statement. 😀
@@stem_saving1644 which temp are you referring to? Outside temp or refrigerant temp. It does not seem proportional to outside temp from what I've seen. This is a noncommunicating compressor and it really seams to operate like a normal compressor but with a ramp up. It pretty much ramps up to a steady state of 18 to 22 amps. So if it's proportional it's only a few amps change
👍
I just installed a 3 ton universal. I noticed it pulls 0.7 amps even when off!! This amounts to $180 a year in wasted energy. Do you know what your current draw is to the outdoor unit when off? Thanks
That seems odd. I double-checked mine, and when off, sure enough I'm drawing 0.56A. Not to happy about that finding. Maybe installing contactor in between will help. Still worth the install, in my opinion. Thanks for the info. Another project for me.
@@stem_saving1644 thanks for checking. I discovered that when trying to understand why my compressor was producing significant vibration in heat mode and sounds find in cooling mode. I cycled fan speeds, tried 2 ton mode, and tried to isolate the lines. However, the compressor itself vibrates enough that it reverberates down the 3/4" line during heat mode enough that you hear it in the house (especially when trying to sleep). Noise would be ok, but the vibration is tough to deal with. I was planning on buying a second unit for my upstairs, but I'm thinking twice now. Anyone experienced this?
Mine seems louder in winter as well. I found that tying the linesets to each rafter dampened the noise and vibration. I moved my outdoor unit away from my window just in case. I'm experimenting on ways to reduce the vibration. It's not perfect, but it's easy to install and cheap.
@@stem_saving1644 The amperage is due to the crankcase heater. This is necessary to keep the refrigerant in the correct state when it gets very cold outside to prolong the life of your compressor.
When it's 65f outside? After HP being off for days? Seems high, if that's the case, the pcb logic should turn this on when heat is called for to warm it up. Not keep it on continuously. Defeats the energy efficiency purpose.
Took me 30 minutes. 29 of them were spent fighting with those damn connections
Yup, it's those are the worst. Not rocket science....just need some patience.
@stem_saving1644 yeah what sucks is the code came back afterwards.
@justinkaufman495. Did you clear it? Might be gas cap as well.
@stem_saving1644 I cleared it, the gas cap looks good. I have a new fuel pressure sensor on the way. Turns out mine is snaped at the neck. Hopefully that fixes it.