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It's connected to your small thermostat wires, just like in my videos. The 26v not the 240 volt. These are the small wires.

It's a 26v sprinkler valve, not 240.. There are multiple types with different size inputs. Simple 3/4 to 1/2 adapter would make it work.

Cool, can you customize their length or fill?

@spydermaaaan no, i check and flush every year.

@@stem_saving1644 ok. Thanks !

Yes, screens do work well, but if you're in mixed climates, new windows can't be beat as they provide heating and cooling reduction.

Mine is 4. Instructions are also on line.

Great, you keep such good numbers! I also looked into precooling before temps get hot. Seems to work as well. Using rain water offers the cleanest water. If you have hard water, you'll need a filter of some sort..... You're absolutely right. Every bit helps.

Thanks!

Nope, sorry, Mister worked for a good 5 years. Upgraded to a heat pump and going to reinstall soon. The condenser doesn't cost 10k unless you're getting scammed. I installed an entire system for under 4k

We have different data points, mine has worked for 3 years, and there are no issues.

So, baerd off your single data point, you're extrapolating to the entire population? I have had mine for 3 years with no issues and have been happy with it. Maybe yours was installed incorrectly? I hate to extrapolate on one data point. Can you cite failure rates ?

@@stem_saving1644 My Ac Technician said he's had to replace a bunch of these unit that are made in china. Also the warranty department is terrible. Go look at Yelp reviews with one star out of 5. Better Business Bureau is loaded with complaints.

Who put your unit in, and what failed? I agree that the service depth is hard to reach when you have questions.

@@stem_saving1644 Tech laughed when he saw the unit he was going to install. He's a friend of mine. He told me I should have asked him before buying this brand. First six months everything was fine then the air handler got a major leak. Then after that they actually sent another coil that was defective. My friend said these are China made junk. Then 6 months later the compressor was making a loud noise and eventually crapped out. Warranty department is the worst by the way

I heard this as well. When things go wrong, information is scarce, and other companies are hesitant to work on it.

So when it rains..... I guess it's the same thing?

@stem_saving1644 Yes, i say accelerated because I highly doubt it rains every time your ac unit runs

My point being they are designed to be outside. Mines has been working for 21 years of getting wet, before i replaced it with a heat pump. Most have aluminum fins, which won't rust.

@stem_saving1644 im stoked you had a good run there are always outliers in any statistical system. I think your vastly over simplifying the situation. Your correct aluminum is used for its corrosion resistance properties. The oxide layer formed by aluminium lends pretty heavily to its continued corrosion resistance by atmospheric sources. But that's not all your going to be facing. There is galvanic corrosion anywhere dissimilar materials meet, in the case you hook one of these up to tap water your facing a whole new set of corrosive stresses including chlorine, sulfer, fluoride, iron calcium etc. Which will factor into not just corrosion but build up on the radiator causing thermal transmission to drop. Rain water is going to be relatively clear of the chlorine and fluoride additives but is subject to any atmospheric pollution. And water from the condensate drain would be subject to any pollution from the system upstream of your collection point. So air pollution in your home plus any corrosion upstream in your system, rusty drain, corrosion in copper etc. I want to be clear there definitely steps you could take to mitigate these factors and if your helping an older system hang on a few yrs before you replace the system is effective.

@BaffledBelief I wouldn't say I'm the only one, statistically. Lots of other data points out there. I do use rain water, which is the purest method of mostly contaminant free water.

@wingman0114 thanks for the post. Interesting results, which brand.

@@stem_saving1644 MGGI

There aren't any problems, it's simple physics... simply look at the temp of shades down. Around 100F. That implies behind the shade is even hotter. Which follows logically what the temp and imager are measuring. When you put your hand on the film you can feel the difference. Sure your can do all the things you suggested, but why if the tools I have can do the same job without all the hassle with trying to conduct a science experiment?

@@stem_saving1644 I am trying to gently tell you that there are problems with how you are using your tools. I can lead you to the river, not force you to drink. But I urge you to on your own time and from sources you trust look into emissivity and reflectivity, which affects the readings from both your thermal camera and your infrared thermometer. Look into the Fluke 62 MAX infrared thermometer, similar form factor to your Ryobi. The Fluke has a setting for emissivity from 0.1 to 1. What does changing that setting do to the measurements from the Fluke? Why do they even have such a setting? Like you say yourself, you are not conducting a science experiment, but replacing the hassle of doing one with what you read on the displays of your tools. But what if those readings are incorrect, then where does that leave your video? And as I believe you will discover if you decide to look into it, they are incorrect. Do the science experiment please. It's very little hassle, literally two pots and a thermometer. Science is not about being sure, it is about making sure. Your results should only be confirmed with an experiment measuring the same thing in a different way. In this case however, I do not believe you will be able to replicate the results you show in this video if you choose to explore this from the two pots and a thermometer angle.

@ringpolitiet check out the window casing itself. No alleged emissivity issues, but also almost virtually just as hot, which confirms the results. I'm not worried about a couple of degrees of error, as it's drowning out in heat. I didn't need a science experiment to confirm the results I could feel. It's good enough for govt work. I also recently replaced the set of windows below the ones with the film on them and the temps beteewn them were staggering. One was 140, the other 80. Can you guess which one was which?

@@stem_saving1644 I see there will be no drinking from the river today. Maybe tomorrow.

@@ringpolitiet don't need to drink from the river when you have water plumbed in at your house.

Prices really spiked. It's still cheaper than a hvac tech to install.

If you watch the end of the video you'll see.

Thanks for the thoughtful comment. I'm in the Midwest and we see temps in the mid 90s and sometimes a hundred. If you're using city water, definitely use a calcium filter. The hardness is something to test for or watch for. Humidity varies between 40 to 60% its quite a large range of conditions. Since you don't get much rain, I would invest in plastic cisterns 500 gallon or more, so when it does rain, you can capture a lot. Another thing to consider is precooling, running the ac really really early before it gets hot, this will also reduce power/ energy consumption as air into the condensor is cooler. I seen about a 15-20% decrease in doing this. The hotter the ambient temp.is the more savings you'll see with misters.. Hope that helps.

@@stem_saving1644 Thanks for the response. I am going to throw together some misters to test the effectiveness. I'll prbably use an irrigation valve, like you did. I live in a community where I don't have a lot of room outside so I'm not sure I could store that much water. First things first. I'll mist the condenser, test current and outlet temperature and see what the improvement is.

@mrschwarz1950 you could even use a garden hose with an adjustable sprayer for a test. Let me know what your results are for your area.

It's really all dependent on your loads. The more efficient your house becomes, the smaller the system becomes. That's the key to getting quicker pay backs.

No odor, just check engine light.

Just like how it's wired in the video..... to the 26v signal coming from the small thermostat wires.

@@stem_saving1644 ok thank you. I was having trouble hearing that part of the video and wasn't sure.

You can read codes and reset them using torque lite

@@stem_saving1644 can you read all codes or just basic codes? Thank you

@Fastarrow12322 not sure what you mean. If there is a fault code, you can read it.

Never came back on since it was reset. If it does, it could also be the gas cap or another leak.

You will need 40-60psi of pressure condensate pump probably won't supply enough pressure or water.... depends on how many misters you run. I have 50 gallon barrels for my old mister.

If it's the code in the video you can try replacing or tightening the gas cap or replacing the device in the video.

If it's non isolated you should be able to.

@@stem_saving1644 i used 2 of this modules and used same ground no problem in my car

butt real simple.

Not sure what arrow you're referring to?

Not even sure what you're remotely talking about.

Not sure what sound insulation is or what its characteristics are.

You didn't watch the end? Nothing left to work with.

The measurements are accurate, I measured both ways energy can enter the space. Radiant and convection. It's the total energy rejection that's what's important. If radiant energy is converted into heat and omitted, it's pointless. Which is why the film heats up so much. The film on the inside should not reach the levels of heat seen. Overall, the interior film is junk. I'll agree that exterior film is better as the heat can be dissipated via conduction.

@@stem_saving1644 It's not junk. It's just misunderstood by many because 3M has misleading specs. I rarely suggest these films if heat rejection is the primary goal. I've never been a big fan of 3M, but we use a lot of different brands and products since we have many different challenges and requests from our customers. I live where some people actually could use this film in the winter as a benefit of the heat absorption 🤣 🤣As I said before we mostly use 3M prestige on historic buildings or for customers that need to protect valuable furnishings and artwork from UV and IR. Have you tested a single-pane glass? We don't see much single-pane glass in the Northern States, but I believe it should perform better on single-pane glass since the heat can't get trapped in a dual-pane. Glass naturally absorbs more heat like asphalt roofs and driveways. This is why exterior metalized and ceramic films are more effective for heat rejection. Reflecting the heat away from the glass to reduce heat absorption is key. It's not as simple as it sounds when you realize glass and many materials on buildings and homes absorb the sun's heat quickly.

That's what's troubling for the software fix, if you take years to unlock the full capacity, then by the time it's unlocked, the warranty could be over. That was my gripe. If I'm paying for 259 miles, I had better get that or pay less if I'm getting less. The bolt got its pack replacement, and it seems to be doing well. Probably should make a video on it.

Good to hear. I'm thinking about getting a used 2020 bolt with the 6200 sw test/ charge limit.

@@stem_saving1644 also don’t let them tell you the shifter is a joy stick ,it is a slap stick! Move the console forward and use your finger tips to shift! Many complained that they can’t grab the joystick and in over 3 years driving it I never have! Hope you got the premier as the digital rear view mirror and over head camera are all I will own from now on! I can see 6 lanes of traffic behind me with no blind spots actually working better than full size truck mirrors!

Shouldn't if the miles/kwh counter is cleared.

I'd would keep what the car came with. The leaft had ecopias, bolt had Michelen energy savers. I was able to get 4.3 miles/kwh on the bolt. Thanks for the feedback, consider subscribing.

No, you missed the technical points

Power in the summer 3500- 4500 and winter 5500-7k temp drives the power.

So you didn't get a new pack? If you reset the range counter and don't use heat, that will tell you your true mileage. Warmer weather also increases this.

​@@stem_saving1644No, 2020-2022 does not get a new battery unless the software flags it. You can only charge to 80% for 6,214 miles, if no problem is detected it automatically goes back 100% charge. Yes, running the heat drops range significantly, we also have had a Volt for 10 years, so we knew to expect that.

I guess if it's leased, it doesn't matter. If it's bought, I'd be making calls to get it replaced....I think they worked out the bugs now. Thinking about getting a second bolt. Leaf range is dropping, and I have to drive further now. Unfortunately, the msrp is still being pushed at the dealerships.

I just bought my 2021 Bolt Premier a week ago. The dealer charged the battery for me. It read 159 miles. I drove 70 mph all the way home. It was 110 miles. The temperature was 40 degrees Fahrenheit. I used no heat other than heated wheel and seat. I live in Wisconsin. I charged the car with L2. The range jumped up to 172 miles. The last four years, I have been driving a Chevrolet Spark EV. I run no heat in car or just to clear the windows. I use a 12v heated blanket across my lap, plus I dress warm. Most of my driving, is city driving. Next L2 charge, my range was 188. My last L2 charge, my range was was 208. My miles/kw is 4.6 . It helps, that temperature has been in 40's to low 50's degrees Fahrenheit. I hope this helps.

@bresina63 we finally got the battery replaced and are seeing similar numbers. I'm in the market for another 2021 bolt, any chance you'd share your purchase price? Curious to see what they are going for now. Did yours have the sw update or total replacement?

Just posted

It does. Some control systems that have quick rise times will overshoot their average during ramp up. I seen mine did 7kw, but then damps down. It's the power usage (steady state) at the given temp that's important.... at least to me.

@@stem_saving1644 Just to be clear it is pulling 20 to 22 at steady state. I have plots from the emporia energy monitor and there really isn't an overshoot on my system. When the system had more vibration that I expected I started tracking amp draw because I was worried about the health of the compressor. I still don't understand how to reconcile the data plate saying 16 amps max and it pulling 20-22. Sometimes it hard to ignore things when you're an engineer.

@mtbphil168 The current should be proportional to the temp. Give or take a few watts. But yeah, I agree with your last statement. 😀

@@stem_saving1644 which temp are you referring to? Outside temp or refrigerant temp. It does not seem proportional to outside temp from what I've seen. This is a noncommunicating compressor and it really seams to operate like a normal compressor but with a ramp up. It pretty much ramps up to a steady state of 18 to 22 amps. So if it's proportional it's only a few amps change

That seems odd. I double-checked mine, and when off, sure enough I'm drawing 0.56A. Not to happy about that finding. Maybe installing contactor in between will help. Still worth the install, in my opinion. Thanks for the info. Another project for me.

@@stem_saving1644 thanks for checking. I discovered that when trying to understand why my compressor was producing significant vibration in heat mode and sounds find in cooling mode. I cycled fan speeds, tried 2 ton mode, and tried to isolate the lines. However, the compressor itself vibrates enough that it reverberates down the 3/4" line during heat mode enough that you hear it in the house (especially when trying to sleep). Noise would be ok, but the vibration is tough to deal with. I was planning on buying a second unit for my upstairs, but I'm thinking twice now. Anyone experienced this?

Mine seems louder in winter as well. I found that tying the linesets to each rafter dampened the noise and vibration. I moved my outdoor unit away from my window just in case. I'm experimenting on ways to reduce the vibration. It's not perfect, but it's easy to install and cheap.

@@stem_saving1644 The amperage is due to the crankcase heater. This is necessary to keep the refrigerant in the correct state when it gets very cold outside to prolong the life of your compressor.

When it's 65f outside? After HP being off for days? Seems high, if that's the case, the pcb logic should turn this on when heat is called for to warm it up. Not keep it on continuously. Defeats the energy efficiency purpose.

Yup, it's those are the worst. Not rocket science....just need some patience.

@stem_saving1644 yeah what sucks is the code came back afterwards.

@justinkaufman495. Did you clear it? Might be gas cap as well.

@stem_saving1644 I cleared it, the gas cap looks good. I have a new fuel pressure sensor on the way. Turns out mine is snaped at the neck. Hopefully that fixes it.