Mr Cool Heat Pump Universal Operating at -7F Nice and Warm Inside No need for Natural Gas
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- All the Items I used to build my system.
amzn.to/3whjPJ2 Mr. Cool 4/5 Ton outdoor unit with Air Handler and 25ft Lineset
amzn.to/3wgGeX6 35A Breaker Outdoor Unit
amzn.to/3ShxokW 15A Breaker Indoor unit
amzn.to/3pxlhn6 Concrete Anchors
amzn.to/3T0YoFT Masonry Drill Bit
amzn.to/3K5AHbs Nylog BLUE thread gasket sealant
amzn.to/3Kb2YO2 Tube Bender
amzn.to/3A70ziM Allen Wrench Set
amzn.to/3wfLtGg Crescent Wrench
amzn.to/3AIYDi1 Thermostat Wire
amzn.to/3KmwiRP R410 Manfold Set
amzn.to/3pvYY0V Ball Valve for Manfold
amzn.to/3pwjwGx Impact Drill (mine is no longer made but this one will work)
amzn.to/3T2c4QW 3/8 Pipe Insulation
amzn.to/3PvnQ3u 3/4 Pipe Insulation
amzn.to/3pT9NdP Metal Strapping
amzn.to/3AzvBRI Washable Filter
amzn.to/3BKrMbR HVAC Tape
amzn.to/3fkj0K3 Sheet Metal Bending Tool
amzn.to/3OYiJJH Sheet Metal Cutting Tool
amzn.to/3r8Qgqk Anemometer 
Наука
Been watching Mr Cool videos like a hawk over the last 6 months. Would love to upgrade my unit.
If your a diy guy, go for it.
I'm seeing similar results with my Mr. Cool Universal. Mine is a 2-3 ton version I installed this past spring (cost less than $4000) single fan compressor and this week was my first deep freeze. I just added the A-Coil to my existing 'old Bryant' gas furnace and have a Google Nest thermostat configured in dual fuel to kick the gas heat on at 0. True to colors, it did just that. But even as temps dropped to 0, the compressor unit performed just nicely. I can attest to you, you do not want to stand in front of that condenser fan when it's 3 degrees outside; unless you like frostbite. If you curious, it has a defrost cycle to melt ice and snow on the fins, and it does make some noises when it completes and shifts the reversing valve (going from heating to cooling) to thaw the outside fins. -7 does not surprise me. Anyway Thumbs up to you (and Mr. Cool) and thanks for the video.
I thought I might have to kick it up to 5t mode, but it's worked great the whole time!
@@stem_saving1644 that's awesome to hear! Any reliability issues?
None. It's been in a little over a year.
i have been considering a similar set up, get the 5 ton universal with a A coil and add to the top of my existing gas fired furnace, add a dual fuel thermostat and play with the set point as needed based on whats cheaper, (gas or electric). this last cold spell has had me wondering how it would do. I've got 2300 square feet to heat though so hopefully it will keep up.
@@briancorbett793 dual fuel just seemed like a pain for me. I wanted all electric. Since i am solar. But depending on rates it makes sense in some cases for dual feul.. I use to get gouged by natural gas "delivery fees" ... not anymore.
Have you ever measured the kW for heating and cooling for 1hr? Also, you must have a good sized solar array to pull 38kWh in a day during winter.
It's pretty darn close to what the datasheet lists for power. Usage is really dependent on set point and heat loss of the structure.
I do have a fairly large solar system that powers it all. It's been a strategic planning process over the years to get this all built out.
Are you running a heat strip. My 2 to 3 t universal is only getting about a 17ﾟ change from return erhottest I've had at the vents is 87ﾟ
No heat strip. If your ducts aren't insulated and or have long runs, your going to experience lots of heat loss.
These units -- well, I'm more familiar with Midea, not the Gree rebadged Mr Cool -- go to great lengths to maintain efficiency with complex (non-intuitive) computer control using the various temperature sensors to run at the absolute minimum power possible. A huge Delta-T is not a good thing for efficiency (YT video bragging rights notwithstanding); you actually don't want to be cranking out 100-120F (30F+ delta) air, because that means the compressor is running just about full tilt, where the best efficiency is when it can modulate down to 40-60%. What this means in practice is that these units tend to want to keep the delta T around the 15-20F range most of the time, as long as they compute that it's able to maintain the room temp at within a degree or two of setpoint. Only when the computer sees that it's losing its battle (from a combo of room temp drops, outdoor temp, and coil temps) will it (begrudgingly) crank up the power and you'll see those big deltas and also much higher power usage.
In this video, at -7F outside, with that 30F delta, I'd wager this thing is running darn near 100% full-out. There could be other factors at play as well, because these units (more so in the ducted/ductless mini splits) typically try to use as slow of a fan as they can get away with also (to keep from blowing cooler air). You'd also want to ensure static pressures are good, assuming the fan isn't modulated down, because lack of airflow can lead to higher deltas (and potential problems.)
Anyway, don't try to overthink this units. If it's maintaining the set temp within a degree or two, just let it do its thing. If you really want to see it work, wait for a cold day and really bump the thermostat up, turn on turbo mode (if applicable), fans on high, etc. and then check your supply temps. Power monitors (Emporia) on the unit's circuit are a really useful tool to get some insight into what it's thinking. When charted over a few hours, it's also easy to see when it goes into defrost and/or needs to ramp up/down the power due to demand.
@@bnasty267 with the “COP” it’s still cheaper than heat strips
For 4 ton, what fuse did you use?
Didn't use a fuse, used 35a breaker
What size house do you have to calculate for 4-5 ton and did you mess with the dip switches?
For heating, it's 3200.....cooling 1600. The finished basement needs only heating and not cooling. Check my other videos for switches.
cost to heat 38.6kwh or $3.61 , incomplete statement, for how many hours or run time
For the entire day
Thanks Bro !
I just installed a 3 ton universal. I noticed it pulls 0.7 amps even when off!! This amounts to $180 a year in wasted energy. Do you know what your current draw is to the outdoor unit when off? Thanks
That seems odd. I double-checked mine, and when off, sure enough I'm drawing 0.56A. Not to happy about that finding. Maybe installing contactor in between will help. Still worth the install, in my opinion.
Thanks for the info. Another project for me.
@@stem_saving1644 thanks for checking. I discovered that when trying to understand why my compressor was producing significant vibration in heat mode and sounds find in cooling mode. I cycled fan speeds, tried 2 ton mode, and tried to isolate the lines. However, the compressor itself vibrates enough that it reverberates down the 3/4" line during heat mode enough that you hear it in the house (especially when trying to sleep). Noise would be ok, but the vibration is tough to deal with. I was planning on buying a second unit for my upstairs, but I'm thinking twice now. Anyone experienced this?
Mine seems louder in winter as well. I found that tying the linesets to each rafter dampened the noise and vibration. I moved my outdoor unit away from my window just in case. I'm experimenting on ways to reduce the vibration.
It's not perfect, but it's easy to install and cheap.
@@stem_saving1644 The amperage is due to the crankcase heater. This is necessary to keep the refrigerant in the correct state when it gets very cold outside to prolong the life of your compressor.
When it's 65f outside? After HP being off for days? Seems high, if that's the case, the pcb logic should turn this on when heat is called for to warm it up. Not keep it on continuously. Defeats the energy efficiency purpose.
How often is your unit cycling on and off at these temperatures, and at more moderate temps like 20s and 30s?
That's a tough question to answer if you include the defrost mode which is somewhat dependent on outside humidity. I would say not including defrost I would see at duty cycle of 75 to 85% of on time in the -7f temps. In the 30s it's more like 20 to 30%. It's really dependent on outdoor temps and how well insulated your house is and if you have lots of air leaks.
@@stem_saving1644 Thanks. Do you have the ability to measure power consumption of the condensing unit? Like how many watts will it pull under max operating conditions?
Yes, I seem about 7200w under cold conditions. Right in line with the datasheet.