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Hey so I'm trying to get into fpv. I have flown the avata, but thats it, I just ordered the jumper t14 2.4G elrs. Do you think this is a good choice, I'm on a budget lol. Also planning on getting the dji integra goggles. I really like how the image looks in the goggles.
As someone looking to upgrade from my first tinyhawk kit I really appreciate this video. Reality checks are needed especially with the hype train and what to buys being so heavily influenced by sponsored pilot vids pushing hard.
2:50 Gotta say, I disagree with the "upgrade only once you've killed it & run it into the ground" mentality - mainly because I've had that mentality for a long time, and while it's certainly wise to only upgrade when the price is actually justified by the improvement you'll get (i.e. don't upgrade every time something new comes out), I wouldn't advise people to wait until it actually *breaks* before upgrading. For example, I finally upgraded to HDZero from analog. Been putting it off for a long time - because it's quite expensive, and my analog setup was still working fine - but I absolutely don't regret it. It has made a *massive* difference to my enjoyment of FPV flying. So much so that I've built an HDZero Whoop as well. Similarly, my previous quad still "flew fine", but it had been through a few too many crashes, and I realised that the majority of my recent crashes had been due to random hardware failures because of its age, rather than my piloting etc. Building a complete new quad instead of just fixing the one or two parts that broke on my old quad has saved me hours of repair and frustration.
Good tips, I just built my own and went analog because I know I’m going to break it at some point being new and just trying to figure it all out. So when I bust a camera or fry a esc or a flight controller it’ll be a little easier on the pocket book and analog is still pretty dang good if you’ve the right setup. Thanks for all the good advice 🍻 🤘
I did that. Caddx ratel 2 with a rush tank mini and second hand skyzone 03O goggles. Flew that for over a year and now I'm switching to hdzero because I got a second had sharkbyte vrx with my skyzone goggles.
My experience is: buy digital (dji) and never have problems with the analog image, believe me, it can be a pain in the ass, even with the more expensive vtxs.
building your quad is great until you run into specification issue. Bought a Mark5 with T-Motors F60 Pro V 2020kv for 6S use. Now all the part manufacturers is blaming each other why it's not working. Even though every part I bought say it will work with 6S.
No, that’s you over speccing your build or not choosing the right specifications. I covered this exact point. 2020kv for 6S is really a racing spec and you are putting it on. Freestyle build? Unless you are flying Sbang with a large battery. I have a video on how to choose the right parts. But what’s the issue why aren’t they working ?
4:15 "More stress on the ESC" leading to fire is *the reason why* it's a good idea to buy the higher rated ESC when you want to buy a more powerful/high kv motor. And sure , you could buy weaker motors to work with weaker ESCs, but then you'll have a weaker quad which will make certain moves harder. If it's your first quad, sure, perhaps going cheaper is good. But doing that later on is likely to limit you and you end up having to buy a whold to have that extra power. There's the saying *"buy cheap, buy twice".*
The whole premise of your point is completely incorrect and there is no such thing as a "weaker quad" Firstly, overpowering a quad that you cant control makes moves harder. But to your point about "you need more power later on because you are limited" Again, that's completely incorrect, and easily debunked: - MrSteele's setup is 1750kv motors on a 45a ESC - 6S - Vannover flys 1860kv motors on a 60a ESC - 6S - Drew Camden flys 4S with 2650kv motors on a 55a ESC - 4S All three pilots fly by your definitions "weaker quads" Do the math, you don't need a higher rated ESC as a general rule. You need to match the ESC to the motors peak amp draw
@@DarrenAllatt A 60 Amp ESC for a 5 inch quad is very much a super-powerful ESC... They've bought powerful, high-current motors, and they've matched it with high-current ESCs. Seems like they've done exactly what I said more experienced people would need to do. Also, how much do those motors cost? I doubt they're in the "beginner"'s price range.
@@Vousie no they haven’t bought “powerful high current motors” They haven’t bought “powerful esc’s” No they didn’t do what you said more experience people would do and buy high KV motors. Le Drib aka Drew Camden is flying on 4S, if he was flying 6S he’d be using 1760kv motors. so no they’re not “high kv motors” neither are Vanny’s or Steele’s My point about these three pilots is you can agree they are not limited by their setups, which they are not flying with by your definition “high power” setups either. So saying that you will get a “weaker” performing quad with 1750kv motors and a 45a ESC is just complete nonsense. Saying that you need to then buy higher power equipment because you are limited is nonsense. Your skill is your limiter! That’s it. And what do you mean beginner price range? You’ve missed the whole point of what I have said - people just buy the most over-spec’d gear without actually looking at the requirements and what the esc needs to be for the motors they are using. Go and look at the specs of the motors and ESC’s - vanny’s motors pull 55a at 100% throttle, a 50a ESC would be more than enough because it will have a burst to 55a anyway. You aren’t spending more than 10s at 100% throttle. I’m going to add to the mistakes list - thinking that “high power setups don’t limit you” You don’t need a high power setup. That’s a fallacy and rubbish.
@@DarrenAllatt The fact of the matter is that for some moves, for example pulling out of dives, the more thrust your quad has, the later you can wait before pulling out of it. That's just physics. No use arguing with me about it. Maybe we just have different definitions of "high power", because to me, 55 Amps *is* a high power ESC for a 5 inch quad. Probably the only reason why Vanover etc aren't running even higher kv motors is because higher kv isn't always worth it - sometimes you just become more likely to burn out motors. They've simply found the gear that gives the optimal performance, and that gear is not exactly at a "beginner's" price range. But yes, just like with learning a new instrument or really anything else that requires building skill, a beginner doesn't need such an expensive setup because they don't yet have the skills to make use of it (or notice the difference, a lot of the time). An expert *does* notice the difference, and *does* find that the better quality, more expensive gear *does* benefit them.
Buy a pnp drone and a air unit separate and you can save hundreds. Like nazgul f5 is like 800$ with a 03 air unit when you can get a analog for 300 and a 03 unit for 250$. Or a 600$ Roma f5 pnp for 260 and a air unit for 150$ NOT The Roma f5 with air unit at 500$ its pnp you plug it up and go
As a current O3 pilot busy slimming down my fleet built up over the years through virtually every mistake you've listed, You've done amazing work here and you're gonna help a lot of people :D a+ vid
OK - I love this video. We do I start? I mean, I don't even know where to buy parts much less how to solder. Is there such a thing as a Drone Building Institute? :)
Thank you! Ive put together a full course on everything you need to know to build a 5” Freestyle Drone: - What parts you need, - Tools, - Skills you need - Mistakes to avoid - Choosing a Video System - Choosing a Radio System - 4S vs 6S - Budgeting - Specs of DJI O3 for building - Frame compatibility with O3 - Flight Controller compatibility with O3 - Choosing an ESC - Stack or Separate FC / ESC - Choosing a Flight Controller - Frame assembly - Dry Fit electronics - Installing O3 Air Unit - Installing Motors - Soldering Motors to ESC - Install Radio Receiver - Final Assembly - ESC configuration - Full Betaflight walkthrough to setup & preset tuning - Betaflight setup for O3 - final checks - putting props on Link: www.udemy.com/course/5inchfreestylemasterclass/?referralCode=48CDE269CDB2251FD235
Darren, good vid... I even have been going so far as to produce my own frame. Since I already have a CNC Machine, I can build 2 or 3 for the cost of 1! And yes, I buy the same flight stacks along with still using a surplus of the original dji air units I bought with the v2 goggles. My plan was exactly what you have suggested. "Blow" them all up before having to go with Walksnail or HD Zero, maybe even DJI but I doubt it. Although I may get the 03 air unit for a head tilt drone I will be building!
I’d love to be able to cut my own frames. But that would mean I’d need to be able to design them too. Only so many hours in a day that I can commit to learning how to do all kinds of things.
@@DarrenAllatt Ha Ha Ha, trust me brother, I get that. It was time consuming. Also in the middle of it I switched to making it able to accept blade guards and then a head tracker set up. It got a bit much. So I'm going to re-do it with all the pit falls that I ran into fixed from the start of the drawing making it easier to manage small changes. I tried to make the CAD drawing parametric but that got real conviluded. then you have to have a very stiff mill for cutting which I had already built. Time, I am fortunate and un-fortunate to have time. I am medically retired so time is there, but we never have enough time! Be well brother and fly true!!!
0:28 tip for young players, that drone parts package that arrived at the front door is parts for your significant others birthday drone you’re building 😁
without even watching this i use fatshark dom v3 and dji v2s with caddix vista, i skipped the 03s andd hadzero walksnail stuff, i just cant see spendding that agin for something not much better than what i already have. dont waste you time spending money, waste your time flying insyteadd
I consider the parts of my Nazgul Evoque v1 quite high end. Am I wrong? The part I dislike is that I’m now stuck with 20x20 stacks with fewer pads and probably easier breakage.
Heh, I am still main driving a just over $100 bardwell budget build from like 2018/2019. Just upgraded to vistas and dji v2 goggles and elrs. But other than that I have not paid anything since 2019, just been using some spares. Went through a few motors and props and 3d printed stuff and that is it. I am also very risk averse as is obvious.
At this point I have 22 quads. 7" to micro/whoops. And I wonder why I got pissy and left the hobby for a year and a half. Back in, I have a different perspective, and I also now have a decent stock of spares that were purchased before the insane price jump worldwide. Lots and lots of spares. I'm not a professional RUclipsr so all this was on my dime. I swear I'm about 5 -6k in by now, which isn't much considering some hobbies, but I work a regular job and live by myself.
Just a note. It’s only now that at 5k subs am I getting noticed by some manufacturers who will work with me. Everything til now has been 100% self funded, and even with the stuff I get I’m 80% self funded. Oh, and I have a real job as a Software Analyst in an Engineering team so this is not anything I do “professionally” Although with the amount of customer support I do, it bloody should be
@@definingslawek4731 I get a tone of comments on my videos of people asking for help with all kinds of FPV Stuff. Especially on my tutorial videos. I have started a help platform called "The Bench" because its easier to provide assistance there instead of replying to comments about things. All Free of Charge too.
You're missing a few parts when calculating the cost of a Nazgul O3. In fact the price of a bind and fly is pretty much the same as if you we're to by the parts separately. I should know, I build a Nazgul Evoque O3 from parts. In your calculation you're not including the price of the sparkfilter that comes with the bind and fly ($17) and an extra set of props ($9) and a spare battery strap that doesn't come with the frame when bought separately ($3). When you include these, the price is exactly the same.
It sounds like you are missing the point. The parts on the iFlight Nazgûl are Overpriced for their level of quality. Why pay for overpricing parts, from a BnF manufacturer when you can pay the same amount for high end parts. Further, spark filter is a gimmick, props are sold in packets of two sets for $9.. if they weren’t, they’re 2-3x overpriced compared to the leading freestyle props Frame kits should include 2 battery straps. But even still, that proves my point. The individual component prices are inflated significantly to make you buy a BnF and punish you financially to replace individual components when they fail. Also, why did you build a Nazgûl when you could have built something way better for the same price.
@@DarrenAllatt tbh if buying a bnf it's better to just get the frame and build to your own specs lot cheaper that way too. Anyways building a protek which with parts and controller came out about 30% off the price including shipping, couldnt go cheaper cuz aios expensive and sell out quickly but if building a 5" there's cheaper options in flight controllers. That's also a good way to keep the price low. Great advice Darren.
@@jthedarkwolfxtreem i wouldn’t even buy the frame from a BnF for a build. There are far better frame choices out there for the same price. Most BnF frames are designed around specific components. AIO’s are about 80% of a stack - so they’re expensive as an individual component but remember it’s two components in 1 so it’s cheaper.
I was watching a video the other day where it said, think of price in terms of hours. If you get paid $20 an hour, and the thing you want to buy is $100 -- ask yourself, would you work for free for 5 hours if someone was going to give you this in return. 🤯
Great great info in here second hand is also something to mention be careful. People try to sell their gear from 2015 at 2015 prices and it can catch new people out. But damn where are we getting 230 dollar 03 air units?
All pricing is USD sorry 😞 most of the viewers are American.. if I put pricing in Dollarydoos no one will understand. That being said, I will probably start putting pricing on screen in AUD with a 🇦🇺
BNF are tested and if reputable they will fix say a fried component if caught soon enough good luck with the defective stack when you put solder to it. ive had several ESCs and FC be DOA.
Most people struggle to get Warranty on BnF’s, just look at Facebook complaints. Unfortunately with this hobby, that’s a risk we have to take - it’s why I buy from retailers as opposed to manufacturers direct. They are more likely to warrant a DOA than a manufacturer. If companies had proper warranty etc, prices would be way higher too.
Overall good tips! not sure I completely agree with the bind and fly trap. I bought a Nazgul F6D. Like you said they did the hard work for you with the engineering but there is nothing stopping you from swapping out the motors, ESC, FC, etc. or modifying it how you see fit.
With iFlight there is, their frames don’t play well with Non-iFlight components, they just don’t fit well or at all. But also, iFlight components are Mid-Tier, but priced as high end- they’re way overpriced for the quality. Then you are left replacing them with overpriced components from iFlight. Start from the ground up and for the same $$ get top quality components
Could you name more details about where the high tier setup you showed in the video uses better components than the blitz stack and xing motors etc? Genuine question. I don’t yet know how to tell the quality of a component other than by the price, which of course might be completely off.
@@calisti9308 Sure thing: Firstly in this video - 6:49 has 3 build options, parts breakdown and pricing, that are cheaper and better than an iFlight Nazgul Evoque 6S DJI O3. It would also apply for any Bind & Fly or Pre-Built Drone. Here is a video going through the entire build and cost comparison for my Ultimate 5" Freestyle Drone: ruclips.net/video/KPbxJIGjb0k/видео.html To answer the question about how to tell the quality of the component outside of it's price, is to look at who are the notable pilots that you follow. Like who is really good at FPV, how are the top pilots? - then, what parts are on their builds and what are they flying? Typically the top 3-4 component manufactures are, in no particular order: - HolyBro - Foxeer - T-Motor - HobbyWing
Thank you very much! I’m going to also watch the other video. Now that I’ve already got the nazgul, I’ll still be better off sticking with it and keeping repairing it, right? Switching to a completely new setup would be more costly. I’m also sticking with the Goggles V2 and the vistas, as long as they can be bought somewhere.
PS Also I’m sticking with 4S which is cheaper per capacity than 6S. Although I’m of course curious about 6S now that I’m not a toootal beginner any more, buying whole new sets of lipos would be darn expensive.
Video could have been an hour long with all the stuff and context I wanted to include. Like, buying 4-6 high end batteries and field charging, instead of buying 20 shit batteries.
I have six vista's I'll probably never use again because of 03. My eye balls like hd and I don't crash as much on HD. But, yeah I get it... It's expensive. You are right. I should sell my old... Get some new...
It’s just how RUclips works, you need to have a click bait thumbnail and title or you won’t get picked up by the algorithm and won’t get views. I don’t like it but it’s not too bad since I like the content anyway
As Steve said. It’s how YT works. You need the silly thumbnail, I noticed the CTR dipping from 12% down to 10% so, trying a different version to see how that affects CTR
Excellent way to fund this hobby and simultaneously help your body, is to give up smoking, drinking, fast food, soda, etc., if you consume any of those things.
I gave up gambling 6 years ago. Started with RC heli and ended up with FPV Quads. Best thing I ever did for myself. Ive spent $$$$$$ on the hobby but thats ok for me, its worth it.
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Hey so I'm trying to get into fpv. I have flown the avata, but thats it, I just ordered the jumper t14 2.4G elrs. Do you think this is a good choice, I'm on a budget lol. Also planning on getting the dji integra goggles. I really like how the image looks in the goggles.
But FPV is life so cost of living includes FPV. Problem solved 😂
Very true!
I will have to remember that next time i ask for a raise 😜👊👊😎👌
Haha this guy!
As someone looking to upgrade from my first tinyhawk kit I really appreciate this video. Reality checks are needed especially with the hype train and what to buys being so heavily influenced by sponsored pilot vids pushing hard.
Don’t get caught in the hype. Make your own decisions, take your time to research. Feel free to ask me any questions
I wouldn’t run the caddx vista into the ground. I’d sell if for 120-150 since they are going for that right now and spend $70 extra on the 03 :)
fair point! 😜
2:50 Gotta say, I disagree with the "upgrade only once you've killed it & run it into the ground" mentality - mainly because I've had that mentality for a long time, and while it's certainly wise to only upgrade when the price is actually justified by the improvement you'll get (i.e. don't upgrade every time something new comes out), I wouldn't advise people to wait until it actually *breaks* before upgrading. For example, I finally upgraded to HDZero from analog. Been putting it off for a long time - because it's quite expensive, and my analog setup was still working fine - but I absolutely don't regret it. It has made a *massive* difference to my enjoyment of FPV flying. So much so that I've built an HDZero Whoop as well.
Similarly, my previous quad still "flew fine", but it had been through a few too many crashes, and I realised that the majority of my recent crashes had been due to random hardware failures because of its age, rather than my piloting etc. Building a complete new quad instead of just fixing the one or two parts that broke on my old quad has saved me hours of repair and frustration.
Good tips, I just built my own and went analog because I know I’m going to break it at some point being new and just trying to figure it all out. So when I bust a camera or fry a esc or a flight controller it’ll be a little easier on the pocket book and analog is still pretty dang good if you’ve the right setup. Thanks for all the good advice 🍻 🤘
I did the same as you, decided to go Analog with higher end goggles.
I fried so many analog vtx that going HD fron the beginning whould have been much cheaper
@@bearbeefpv you set it to max power while waiting on the bench?
The dji 2 googles and 03 air units are awesome
Great info for those new cats. I'm guilty as charged aswell, even being a seasoned pilot. Chasing the dragon.
Heres a tip (im serious) go with good analog, thats like 70% cheaper than dji
I did that. Caddx ratel 2 with a rush tank mini and second hand skyzone 03O goggles. Flew that for over a year and now I'm switching to hdzero because I got a second had sharkbyte vrx with my skyzone goggles.
Thank you Darren. Your reviews are very balanced. I subscribed and will now watch them. Greetings from Siberia!
Justvsell the unused stuff to buy New stuff is the best option I use always
My experience is: buy digital (dji) and never have problems with the analog image, believe me, it can be a pain in the ass, even with the more expensive vtxs.
building your quad is great until you run into specification issue. Bought a Mark5 with T-Motors F60 Pro V 2020kv for 6S use. Now all the part manufacturers is blaming each other why it's not working. Even though every part I bought say it will work with 6S.
No, that’s you over speccing your build or not choosing the right specifications. I covered this exact point.
2020kv for 6S is really a racing spec and you are putting it on. Freestyle build? Unless you are flying Sbang with a large battery.
I have a video on how to choose the right parts.
But what’s the issue why aren’t they working ?
Also “6S” compatible is marketing bullshit
You also didn’t mention what stack (flight controller / esc) you are using
4:15 "More stress on the ESC" leading to fire is *the reason why* it's a good idea to buy the higher rated ESC when you want to buy a more powerful/high kv motor. And sure , you could buy weaker motors to work with weaker ESCs, but then you'll have a weaker quad which will make certain moves harder. If it's your first quad, sure, perhaps going cheaper is good. But doing that later on is likely to limit you and you end up having to buy a whold to have that extra power. There's the saying *"buy cheap, buy twice".*
The whole premise of your point is completely incorrect and there is no such thing as a "weaker quad"
Firstly, overpowering a quad that you cant control makes moves harder.
But to your point about "you need more power later on because you are limited"
Again, that's completely incorrect, and easily debunked:
- MrSteele's setup is 1750kv motors on a 45a ESC - 6S
- Vannover flys 1860kv motors on a 60a ESC - 6S
- Drew Camden flys 4S with 2650kv motors on a 55a ESC - 4S
All three pilots fly by your definitions "weaker quads"
Do the math, you don't need a higher rated ESC as a general rule.
You need to match the ESC to the motors peak amp draw
@@DarrenAllatt A 60 Amp ESC for a 5 inch quad is very much a super-powerful ESC... They've bought powerful, high-current motors, and they've matched it with high-current ESCs. Seems like they've done exactly what I said more experienced people would need to do.
Also, how much do those motors cost? I doubt they're in the "beginner"'s price range.
@@Vousie no
they haven’t bought “powerful high current motors”
They haven’t bought “powerful esc’s”
No they didn’t do what you said more experience people would do and buy high KV motors.
Le Drib aka Drew Camden is flying on 4S, if he was flying 6S he’d be using 1760kv motors. so no they’re not “high kv motors” neither are Vanny’s or Steele’s
My point about these three pilots is you can agree they are not limited by their setups, which they are not flying with by your definition “high power” setups either.
So saying that you will get a “weaker” performing quad with 1750kv motors and a 45a ESC is just complete nonsense.
Saying that you need to then buy higher power equipment because you are limited is nonsense.
Your skill is your limiter! That’s it.
And what do you mean beginner price range?
You’ve missed the whole point of what I have said
- people just buy the most over-spec’d gear without actually looking at the requirements and what the esc needs to be for the motors they are using.
Go and look at the specs of the motors and ESC’s - vanny’s motors pull 55a at 100% throttle, a 50a ESC would be more than enough because it will have a burst to 55a anyway. You aren’t spending more than 10s at 100% throttle.
I’m going to add to the mistakes list
- thinking that “high power setups don’t limit you”
You don’t need a high power setup. That’s a fallacy and rubbish.
@@DarrenAllatt The fact of the matter is that for some moves, for example pulling out of dives, the more thrust your quad has, the later you can wait before pulling out of it. That's just physics. No use arguing with me about it.
Maybe we just have different definitions of "high power", because to me, 55 Amps *is* a high power ESC for a 5 inch quad.
Probably the only reason why Vanover etc aren't running even higher kv motors is because higher kv isn't always worth it - sometimes you just become more likely to burn out motors. They've simply found the gear that gives the optimal performance, and that gear is not exactly at a "beginner's" price range.
But yes, just like with learning a new instrument or really anything else that requires building skill, a beginner doesn't need such an expensive setup because they don't yet have the skills to make use of it (or notice the difference, a lot of the time). An expert *does* notice the difference, and *does* find that the better quality, more expensive gear *does* benefit them.
@@Vousie except you have neglected the weight of the quad when it comes to pulling out of dives.
Buy a pnp drone and a air unit separate and you can save hundreds. Like nazgul f5 is like 800$ with a 03 air unit when you can get a analog for 300 and a 03 unit for 250$. Or a 600$ Roma f5 pnp for 260 and a air unit for 150$ NOT The Roma f5 with air unit at 500$ its pnp you plug it up and go
Great comments! I think about that all the time! I see more pilots interested on the buying high tech fetishes then flying and having fun.
As a current O3 pilot busy slimming down my fleet built up over the years through virtually every mistake you've listed, You've done amazing work here and you're gonna help a lot of people :D a+ vid
Thank you
OK - I love this video. We do I start? I mean, I don't even know where to buy parts much less how to solder. Is there such a thing as a Drone Building Institute? :)
Thank you!
Ive put together a full course on everything you need to know to build a 5” Freestyle Drone:
- What parts you need,
- Tools,
- Skills you need
- Mistakes to avoid
- Choosing a Video System
- Choosing a Radio System
- 4S vs 6S
- Budgeting
- Specs of DJI O3 for building
- Frame compatibility with O3
- Flight Controller compatibility with O3
- Choosing an ESC
- Stack or Separate FC / ESC
- Choosing a Flight Controller
- Frame assembly
- Dry Fit electronics
- Installing O3 Air Unit
- Installing Motors
- Soldering Motors to ESC
- Install Radio Receiver
- Final Assembly
- ESC configuration
- Full Betaflight walkthrough to setup & preset tuning
- Betaflight setup for O3
- final checks
- putting props on
Link:
www.udemy.com/course/5inchfreestylemasterclass/?referralCode=48CDE269CDB2251FD235
Darren, good vid... I even have been going so far as to produce my own frame. Since I already have a CNC Machine, I can build 2 or 3 for the cost of 1! And yes, I buy the same flight stacks along with still using a surplus of the original dji air units I bought with the v2 goggles. My plan was exactly what you have suggested. "Blow" them all up before having to go with Walksnail or HD Zero, maybe even DJI but I doubt it. Although I may get the 03 air unit for a head tilt drone I will be building!
I’d love to be able to cut my own frames.
But that would mean I’d need to be able to design them too.
Only so many hours in a day that I can commit to learning how to do all kinds of things.
@@DarrenAllatt Ha Ha Ha, trust me brother, I get that. It was time consuming. Also in the middle of it I switched to making it able to accept blade guards and then a head tracker set up. It got a bit much. So I'm going to re-do it with all the pit falls that I ran into fixed from the start of the drawing making it easier to manage small changes. I tried to make the CAD drawing parametric but that got real conviluded. then you have to have a very stiff mill for cutting which I had already built. Time, I am fortunate and un-fortunate to have time. I am medically retired so time is there, but we never have enough time! Be well brother and fly true!!!
0:28 tip for young players, that drone parts package that arrived at the front door is parts for your significant others birthday drone you’re building 😁
My man!
This is a great video especially for someone like me who’s only starting out in fpv and building a 5” drone
without even watching this i use fatshark dom v3 and dji v2s with caddix vista, i skipped the 03s andd hadzero walksnail stuff, i just cant see spendding that agin for something not much better than what i already have. dont waste you time spending money, waste your time flying insyteadd
Amen to that 🙏
I consider the parts of my Nazgul Evoque v1 quite high end. Am I wrong?
The part I dislike is that I’m now stuck with 20x20 stacks with fewer pads and probably easier breakage.
Yes
They’re mid-tier at best, and over priced for their quality.
Heh, I am still main driving a just over $100 bardwell budget build from like 2018/2019. Just upgraded to vistas and dji v2 goggles and elrs. But other than that I have not paid anything since 2019, just been using some spares. Went through a few motors and props and 3d printed stuff and that is it. I am also very risk averse as is obvious.
These are all valid points -great video
I started out over 5yrs ago and I've spent way to much money on this hobby, but I've enjoyed every penny spent.
Hi Darren, I’m reading up CASA for fpv. It seems painful. Is the ‘send its’ approach also applicable here?
If a tree falls in the woods and no one is around to see or hear it - did it fall?
@@DarrenAllatt that’s what I want to hear!
At this point I have 22 quads. 7" to micro/whoops. And I wonder why I got pissy and left the hobby for a year and a half.
Back in, I have a different perspective, and I also now have a decent stock of spares that were purchased before the insane price jump worldwide. Lots and lots of spares.
I'm not a professional RUclipsr so all this was on my dime. I swear I'm about 5 -6k in by now, which isn't much considering some hobbies, but I work a regular job and live by myself.
Just a note. It’s only now that at 5k subs am I getting noticed by some manufacturers who will work with me.
Everything til now has been 100% self funded, and even with the stuff I get I’m 80% self funded.
Oh, and I have a real job as a Software Analyst in an Engineering team so this is not anything I do “professionally”
Although with the amount of customer support I do, it bloody should be
@@DarrenAllatt Who are you doing customer support for?
@@definingslawek4731 I get a tone of comments on my videos of people asking for help with all kinds of FPV Stuff.
Especially on my tutorial videos.
I have started a help platform called "The Bench" because its easier to provide assistance there instead of replying to comments about things.
All Free of Charge too.
You're missing a few parts when calculating the cost of a Nazgul O3.
In fact the price of a bind and fly is pretty much the same as if you we're to by the parts separately. I should know, I build a Nazgul Evoque O3 from parts.
In your calculation you're not including the price of the sparkfilter that comes with the bind and fly ($17) and an extra set of props ($9) and a spare battery strap that doesn't come with the frame when bought separately ($3).
When you include these, the price is exactly the same.
It sounds like you are missing the point.
The parts on the iFlight Nazgûl are Overpriced for their level of quality.
Why pay for overpricing parts, from a BnF manufacturer when you can pay the same amount for high end parts.
Further, spark filter is a gimmick, props are sold in packets of two sets for $9.. if they weren’t, they’re 2-3x overpriced compared to the leading freestyle props
Frame kits should include 2 battery straps.
But even still, that proves my point.
The individual component prices are inflated significantly to make you buy a BnF and punish you financially to replace individual components when they fail.
Also, why did you build a Nazgûl when you could have built something way better for the same price.
@@DarrenAllatt tbh if buying a bnf it's better to just get the frame and build to your own specs lot cheaper that way too. Anyways building a protek which with parts and controller came out about 30% off the price including shipping, couldnt go cheaper cuz aios expensive and sell out quickly but if building a 5" there's cheaper options in flight controllers. That's also a good way to keep the price low. Great advice Darren.
@@jthedarkwolfxtreem i wouldn’t even buy the frame from a BnF for a build. There are far better frame choices out there for the same price.
Most BnF frames are designed around specific components.
AIO’s are about 80% of a stack - so they’re expensive as an individual component but remember it’s two components in 1 so it’s cheaper.
Dose remote id work in Australia? In these two examples running dji v2 goggles with a 03 air unit? Running dji goggles 2 with a 03 unit?
No Remote ID for Australia currently. Legislation could always change.
What do you mean by Goggles V2 vs Goggles 2 with an O3 Air Unit?
I still fly 4s.
Whenever i consider a upgrade I ask myself. Is this upgrade really "X amount of money" better than my current version.
I was watching a video the other day where it said, think of price in terms of hours.
If you get paid $20 an hour, and the thing you want to buy is $100 -- ask yourself, would you work for free for 5 hours if someone was going to give you this in return. 🤯
Great great info in here second hand is also something to mention be careful. People try to sell their gear from 2015 at 2015 prices and it can catch new people out.
But damn where are we getting 230 dollar 03 air units?
All pricing is USD sorry 😞 most of the viewers are American.. if I put pricing in Dollarydoos no one will understand.
That being said, I will probably start putting pricing on screen in AUD with a 🇦🇺
BNF are tested and if reputable they will fix say a fried component if caught soon enough good luck with the defective stack when you put solder to it. ive had several ESCs and FC be DOA.
Most people struggle to get Warranty on BnF’s, just look at Facebook complaints.
Unfortunately with this hobby, that’s a risk we have to take - it’s why I buy from retailers as opposed to manufacturers direct. They are more likely to warrant a DOA than a manufacturer.
If companies had proper warranty etc, prices would be way higher too.
@@DarrenAllatt armattan and iflight stand up to claims. The only way ive had parts coverd was fleabay and the zon.
So true Thanks for sharing
Thank you for watching 🤜🏼
Overall good tips! not sure I completely agree with the bind and fly trap. I bought a Nazgul F6D. Like you said they did the hard work for you with the engineering but there is nothing stopping you from swapping out the motors, ESC, FC, etc. or modifying it how you see fit.
With iFlight there is, their frames don’t play well with Non-iFlight components, they just don’t fit well or at all.
But also, iFlight components are Mid-Tier, but priced as high end- they’re way overpriced for the quality.
Then you are left replacing them with overpriced components from iFlight.
Start from the ground up and for the same $$ get top quality components
Could you name more details about where the high tier setup you showed in the video uses better components than the blitz stack and xing motors etc?
Genuine question. I don’t yet know how to tell the quality of a component other than by the price, which of course might be completely off.
@@calisti9308 Sure thing:
Firstly in this video - 6:49 has 3 build options, parts breakdown and pricing, that are cheaper and better than an iFlight Nazgul Evoque 6S DJI O3. It would also apply for any Bind & Fly or Pre-Built Drone.
Here is a video going through the entire build and cost comparison for my Ultimate 5" Freestyle Drone:
ruclips.net/video/KPbxJIGjb0k/видео.html
To answer the question about how to tell the quality of the component outside of it's price, is to look at who are the notable pilots that you follow. Like who is really good at FPV, how are the top pilots? - then, what parts are on their builds and what are they flying?
Typically the top 3-4 component manufactures are, in no particular order:
- HolyBro
- Foxeer
- T-Motor
- HobbyWing
Thank you very much! I’m going to also watch the other video.
Now that I’ve already got the nazgul, I’ll still be better off sticking with it and keeping repairing it, right? Switching to a completely new setup would be more costly.
I’m also sticking with the Goggles V2 and the vistas, as long as they can be bought somewhere.
PS Also I’m sticking with 4S which is cheaper per capacity than 6S. Although I’m of course curious about 6S now that I’m not a toootal beginner any more, buying whole new sets of lipos would be darn expensive.
There are a lot of things to add more but nice video!
Video could have been an hour long with all the stuff and context I wanted to include.
Like, buying 4-6 high end batteries and field charging, instead of buying 20 shit batteries.
@@DarrenAllatt I made lots of mistakes at building my drone: Burning a Fc, Burning a Gyro, broke vtx mmcx plugs and much other 😢
o3 is pretty good
so true STILL ROCK my QX7 R9
I only bought two quads new. The th2 freestyle and th2. The rest are used.
Are you a Left Pillar?
what's left pillar
Darren gets my Team Cheapskate seal of approval!
Thank you 🙏
😂Banggood is a DRONE PARTS SITE.
Learn to Build a 5" Freestyle FPV Drone 🎓 www.darrenfpv.com/buildmasterclass-5freestyle
i've spent over 10k on building drones since 2013 and all of them are outdated and don't even fly lol
That’s $1k a year. Quite cheap in the long run!
I stopped flying in 2017 when I got laid off from my job in the robotics industry. slowly getting back into it now @@DarrenAllatt
"Me closing my FPV shopping carts"
😂
@@DarrenAllatt i actually bought some new lipos
I have six vista's I'll probably never use again because of 03.
My eye balls like hd and
I don't crash as much on HD.
But, yeah I get it...
It's expensive. You are right.
I should sell my old...
Get some new...
You’ve got 6 Vistas that you could sell, to buy more Quads or O3 Air Units.
You are a really good content creator, but please stop the silly thumbnails.
How would you make this thumbnail then?
It’s just how RUclips works, you need to have a click bait thumbnail and title or you won’t get picked up by the algorithm and won’t get views. I don’t like it but it’s not too bad since I like the content anyway
You changed it. Looks better.
As Steve said. It’s how YT works. You need the silly thumbnail, I noticed the CTR dipping from 12% down to 10% so, trying a different version to see how that affects CTR
REMEMBER :You can only fly one at a time 🤣
New subscriber. Really good suggestions. I buy duplicates of the same parts and don't get caught up in the fluff. Redundancy.
Excellent way to fund this hobby and simultaneously help your body, is to give up smoking, drinking, fast food, soda, etc., if you consume any of those things.
I gave up gambling 6 years ago. Started with RC heli and ended up with FPV Quads. Best thing I ever did for myself. Ive spent $$$$$$ on the hobby but thats ok for me, its worth it.
Well, this cheap knock offs work quite well 😉
😂 Johnny220mm
but wait.... i thought managing my fleet was the hobby!?
😂