Hi - I think ours are wired in a parallel circuit because when one light bulb fails, the rest stay on. In which case, I can just connect the mains directly to the IP65’s black connector box? Many thanks John
I'm having real issues lately with the GU10 smart light bulbs and only since changing the type of bulb due to not being able to get them anymore! But the new bulks look great but I was hearing noise from the old type bulbs and thought maybe a change! So on the new bulbs, they are failing and I think it's to do with the holders being for a 50w bulbs back 15 years ago! Very hard to get to them so I have gradually got one out and it's from B&Q with a barcode on it but I still no clue what type they are. I also got told by an Electrician that the switch I have is no good for these types of bulb with it being a Dimmer Switch old type! Do you think I can get away with just trying to change the switch or do both? I pay a high price for these holders back then! So Id rather keep them if I can. Also, the lights are really white! Just not knowing where to ask locally for help on this? Thanks for this video it may be a solution for me but need further help first Thanks again for your help on these setups! Links also seemed to be not working now!
LED MR16’s are 12 volts just like the halogen bulbs you are replacing, which are all connected to existing transformer(s). All you need to do is remove the halogen MR16 bulbs and replace with LED MR16 bulbs. The load on the LED bulbs will be much lower than the old halogen bulbs, so the existing transformers will be just fine for use with the LED bulbs.
You're clearly not qualified to be telling people how to do electrical work at home. You haven't confirmed anything with any test results. Just because you turn it on and it works doesn't make it right. What a REAL electrician wants to know is.. In the event of a fault to earth is the circuit protective conductor sufficient and ads device within known tolerances as prescribed in BS7671, to achieve automatic disconnection of the supply. *You haven't checked polarity *You haven't checked if the cpc is there at all * you haven't checked is the fuse rated correctly for the cable and expected demand of the circuit taking into account cable derating factors and voltage drop. *You haven't checked to see if the PVC insulation on the cable is compromised You haven't checked for additional protection in the form of a 30mA RCD or maybe it's needed for fault protection if ADS couldn't be achieved perhaps.. *You haven't checked the supply's earthing arrangements or supplementary bonding (if Applicable) or main equal potential bonding conductors of extraneous conductive parts like the water pipe and gas pipe. I could go on. All you did was the function test. There is one thing having a go on your own home but to make a video like you know what you're talking about is a little disturbing. Conclusion... as an Electrician of 20 years I can safely say you haven't a clue what you're really doing or talking about and anyone who listens to you is a bigger fool 👍
Oof, that looks ropey as fuck. connector strips pushed into the ceiling space like that. Nope. Why go to the bother of getting FR lamps if you plan on starting the fire above them
Dude that is just not safe 😂 You’re putting terminal block that isn’t enclosed into the ceiling space?? If your house catches fire I don’t think the insurance would pay out especially if they find this video!
doesn't help that you say, I have disconnected this and I have found this, without filming that bit.
Hi - I think ours are wired in a parallel circuit because when one light bulb fails, the rest stay on. In which case, I can just connect the mains directly to the IP65’s black connector box?
Many thanks
John
I'm having real issues lately with the GU10 smart light bulbs and only since changing the type of bulb due to not being able to get them anymore! But the new bulks look great but I was hearing noise from the old type bulbs and thought maybe a change! So on the new bulbs, they are failing and I think it's to do with the holders being for a 50w bulbs back 15 years ago! Very hard to get to them so I have gradually got one out and it's from B&Q with a barcode on it but I still no clue what type they are. I also got told by an Electrician that the switch I have is no good for these types of bulb with it being a Dimmer Switch old type! Do you think I can get away with just trying to change the switch or do both? I pay a high price for these holders back then! So Id rather keep them if I can. Also, the lights are really white! Just not knowing where to ask locally for help on this? Thanks for this video it may be a solution for me but need further help first Thanks again for your help on these setups! Links also seemed to be not working now!
Hi I got 40 mr16 halogen lights I want to put mr16 leds will I need tranformers for each bulbs
LED MR16’s are 12 volts just like the halogen bulbs you are replacing, which are all connected to existing transformer(s). All you need to do is remove the halogen MR16 bulbs and replace with LED MR16 bulbs. The load on the LED bulbs will be much lower than the old halogen bulbs, so the existing transformers will be just fine for use with the LED bulbs.
Ta much ,helped me alot
You're clearly not qualified to be telling people how to do electrical work at home. You haven't confirmed anything with any test results. Just because you turn it on and it works doesn't make it right. What a REAL electrician wants to know is..
In the event of a fault to earth is the circuit protective conductor sufficient and ads device within known tolerances as prescribed in BS7671, to achieve automatic disconnection of the supply.
*You haven't checked polarity
*You haven't checked if the cpc is there at all
* you haven't checked is the fuse rated correctly for the cable and expected demand of the circuit taking into account cable derating factors and voltage drop.
*You haven't checked to see if the PVC insulation on the cable is compromised
You haven't checked for additional protection in the form of a 30mA RCD or maybe it's needed for fault protection if ADS couldn't be achieved perhaps..
*You haven't checked the supply's earthing arrangements or supplementary bonding (if Applicable) or
main equal potential bonding conductors of extraneous conductive parts like the water pipe and gas pipe.
I could go on.
All you did was the function test.
There is one thing having a go on your own home but to make a video like you know what you're talking about is a little disturbing.
Conclusion... as an Electrician of 20 years I can safely say you haven't a clue what you're really doing or talking about and anyone who listens to you is a bigger fool 👍
Isn't this really dangerous?
You're daisy chaining 240v in series? If one goes, they will all fail?
They're not in series.
Oof, that looks ropey as fuck. connector strips pushed into the ceiling space like that. Nope.
Why go to the bother of getting FR lamps if you plan on starting the fire above them
Dude that is just not safe 😂
You’re putting terminal block that isn’t enclosed into the ceiling space?? If your house catches fire I don’t think the insurance would pay out especially if they find this video!
Too complex.