$75,000 for a triaxle dump truck to move my own dirt to and from jobsites . Figured out the truck by itself Made half the money back in the first 5 months of owning it. No more waiting on delivery truck or running twice as many loads in my smaller truck. Saves on fuel and can work when I want as late or early as I want. Also hiring it out to other guys in my winter downtime at $1,000 per day . Was scary in the beginning but so happy I took the gamble! Great video!
2000 NZD for a David White rotary laser level a good 20 years ago. I was setting out a split level house on a steep section with a dumpy level and a long stick clamped to a saw stool.... by myself. That level earned its keep on that job alone. I needed only one profile along the level top and one along the easiest sloping side and squared everything (poles) off with the level. I still have it, but recently bought a cheap 3/360 green laser level off Aliexpress to keep in my van for quick everyday use. I love that thing as well. Use it quite a bit.
We use a lot of cement fibre boards in Australia. I spent good money on some cement board shears, no dust, no noise and little clear up. Great for avoiding silicosis.
As a roofer, the tool I bought that was a game changer for me was the AJC Mag-hatchet. I don't know how I ever lived without it now that I've had it for a few years.
Fun fact about rebar, I was talking to an engineer on my last job and he was saying to never go overkill with rebar in footings. It wasn’t a big issue with my footings but for one of the pads we had, we ran out of 1/2” rebar so had to use up what we had left for 5/8” for 4x4 grid pattern. He said using bigger rebar actually decreases the amount of deflection and can fail eventually over time because it’s too strong and it needs to deflect to take the weight. Blew my mind when I was talking to him, even drew me a diagram and everything to show me the difference in using rebar!
Always feel smarter at the end of your videos, like I’ve been in class walking away with more knowledge. My cry once tool is a $380 hultafors wrecking bar, no other tool can do what it does but I still can’t get over the price for what it is
Hello Tim, Absolutely love you channel (more long form content please) In answer to you question - everything Festool that I own was a shock but worth every penny (from the UK). Keep up the great work Gerard
Your videos are great. For finding your highest elevation try using the laserline gr1000 cut/fill grade rod. It makes this process incredibly easy. I am the receiver on a stick or four foot level guy as well, but this tool has made life easy!!!!
Obviously I know nothing about setting all your foundation up I am a finish ; sub contractor? However; what bout that light weight rebar made from “ fiberglass “ ? Is that even something you considered or try? Thank you for the video !
Paslode XP framing nailer, cost me $400 including the initial fuel charges, greatly speeds up framing work and makes it easier, especially when we are on ladders or on top of walls
zone the UK we tend to dig a rrench for strip foundation. Then blinding concrete. then regards. fill with concrete. Saves on formwork. Very rear for foundations ti be only 300mm (1' for those still on the 18th century). Clay movement is a big concern
Auto-feed screw gun, rotating laser rather than builder's level, (Hilti green beam), beam saw, all game changers. I remember going from old style tube Makita screw guns to impacts-- definite game changer
Taking the time to build it in your head before you start. When you can see it finished in your mind. Then reverse engineer it from the base. Newbies/apprentices often are not allowed to see plans ,and simply told yo carry this over here etc. To me ,a few minutes at the start of each day to discuss process and goals is a good way to inform and involve everyone. Hiding/withholding information is/was a very bad idea. It took to long for me to learn this unfortunately. A physical tool was the tracksaw,I thought it was a dumb idea. Finally bought the Makita on clearance for the 4 batteries it came with. I use the 'tablewsaw in a small box" constantly!
I bought a connector nailer (ppn gun) , while the gun wasn’t particularly expensive the nails are at least in Australia. a good 8x more per 1000’ than hand nails and very few people use them here vs hand nails so instantly material costs are higher but labour is saved. So rather than paying someone a wage they live off I’m paying a manufacturer. but I get to finish and achieve more profit because I charge in line with market value for the job, but spend on tools to save time and keep the edge over others in the industry and who doesn’t like new tools
Chief Architect Design Software. For 10 years I hand drew my home plans. Then purchased AutoCAD LT....and finally got smart and went 3D and design every project with CA X-15 design software. Total cost over the last ten years has been $9,000 in software purchases and upgrades, and about $30,000 in computers...nothing low end about the computers; PCs and laptops every 4 years.
Bought a 3 ton mini Ex and can do all my trenching on my time and save the customer $ on rental rates. At the end of the day I own it and can sell it or upgrade when needed
I put a shed slab maybe once every three years, and even then I wish I could afford the rebar tie tool. No need to justify it, I saw the need for it as soon I became aware it of it years ago. But at that price, I cannot afford it. If they brought it down to around $600...? Yeah, I know, but one can dream...
Do you have a tool rental company near by? Home Depot or otherwise? You can always check if they have those types of tools available. HD will let you rent for 4 hours. Works great if I need a concrete mixer for small pour projects.
$3500 concrete dust extractor. Most guys, unless they own walk behind grinders and specialize in concrete cutting/ grinding/ coatings, use shop vacs or smaller units, the bigger machines are designed for the guys that grind all the time with big walk behinds. There is no comparison. Silica dust sucks, ive been sick from it before, and I refuse to expose anyone else by using substandard equipment. This pulls dust out from my smaller grinders, saws, and other tools. Leaves my jobs cleaner, cleans better when its used to clean floors before applying coatings, and is much much safer due to the efficiency of how it pulls dust out, and then manages the dust by bagging it without needing extra handling. If i rent a walk behind grinder or bigger machine for a job it can handle the extra load with no problem. Expensive to buy but it makes me so happy every time I use it.
Festool Kapex w/ wings and stand $3000 plus! Went from packing 80 pound 12” Makita , plus 30 pound stand , and 50 pound fast cap wings ! Now ? 56 pounds and dead nutz accuracy on my Moulding cuts! I bought the 26 vac system w/ it ! Hepa filter which now I don’t breathe as much MDF dust!
@@AwesomeFramers trust me dad these guys I got are way more safer when they’re chasing the dragon all day. Side note great content very informative you’ve taught me everything I know so far thanks dad
Great stuff. I wish I could have had that bar tying tool when I had a footing company! My guys would have loved me (even more than they obviously already did). Nice hike too. If you like hiking you should check out my daughter's RUclips channel www.youtube.com/@LaurenRoerick She is currently hiking the length of New Zealand (3000+ km) and last year did the Hexatrek, in France, another 3000+ km solo hike as the first North American woman to complete it. Cheers!
Any power tool what so ever. I grew up very poor and when I built my first house I started with only hand tools. Hammer, nails, hand saw everything. And not anything from a reputable brand. By the time I finished and had the walls standing I caved and bought a Milwaukee nail gun to do the sheathing. I’m now a tool addict and have well over 20k in power tools
No any tool that pays for itself is worth the investment if you're only building one house then no I've tied steel and as easy as it is the end of the day nobody stands up straight very easy
@@AwesomeFramers I used a reciprocating saw and the vibration was killer. Portaband is slow. Cutting disc gives off sparks and dust with the potential of a disc braking and causing bodily damage. Since we have the rebar cutter, its been great. Cut #4 bar in under 2 seconds, nut dust or sparks. Really think you should try one.
please try to do a icf build at some point in the near future - could be an easy sell to clients? it should be less labor, all in all - set it and forget it, good tornado protection , built in insulation makes icf builds very efficient!
Your rebar is placed incorrectly, dangerously. Please look at how to place rebar for strip footings. The longitudinal rebar you placed are secondary for temperature. You need to place rebar perpendicular to the wall direction above (shorter distance of the footing).
@@AwesomeFramers I am a structural engineer. You placed temperature shrinkage rebar, they will serve zero structural purposes,. Sometimes we could lay them out like that for a grade beams but even then you would need many perpendicular rebars. Anyways, your foundation is too shallow and too wide to be considered a grade beam. Double check the drawings, if you did what the drawings tell you then find another engineer. Just trying to help you out.
@@vitaliy401 Did you watch the entire video? I placed it as per our structural engineer. The steel rein is 3" off the dirt running longitudinally.... exactly as it's designed, and engineered. You can find diagrams in the code that show this as well.
Just telling you as an engineer. If you had a grade beam then it would be correct but for strip footing it's not. Basic reinforced concrete design. So if engineers are telling you this then get new ones. Having said that, if you're putting a 1 story framed house on this, nothing will probably happen (at least nothing major) since the loads are so light. But you should not show this as an example since it's wrong.
Interesting, in Australia you would never get away with that footing the smallest footing I have ever seen approved is 60cm depth which generally means digging out the earth below pad level; second issue is the rebar is a minimum of two rebar bottom sitting on concrete block and two up top held together by bent form linkage wired together top rebar 15cm from the finish level and the minimum thick is 12mm deformed bars plus you have to lay a thick layer of plastic membrane in the trench before you lay any steam for moisture that concrete always such up giving you salt damp.
$75,000 for a triaxle dump truck to move my own dirt to and from jobsites . Figured out the truck by itself Made half the money back in the first 5 months of owning it. No more waiting on delivery truck or running twice as many loads in my smaller truck. Saves on fuel and can work when I want as late or early as I want. Also hiring it out to other guys in my winter downtime at $1,000 per day . Was scary in the beginning but so happy I took the gamble! Great video!
That rebar tying gun is game changer.
LCD sound system? Sweet job site And somehow I had Pioneer Builders as my T ball sponsor many years ago. PNW.
Love that burn about the rebar gun. It's a awesome tool
2000 NZD for a David White rotary laser level a good 20 years ago. I was setting out a split level house on a steep section with a dumpy level and a long stick clamped to a saw stool.... by myself. That level earned its keep on that job alone. I needed only one profile along the level top and one along the easiest sloping side and squared everything (poles) off with the level. I still have it, but recently bought a cheap 3/360 green laser level off Aliexpress to keep in my van for quick everyday use. I love that thing as well. Use it quite a bit.
I love her yawn to your singing lol 😆. Haven't been up on that hike for years. Looks beautiful.
We use a lot of cement fibre boards in Australia. I spent good money on some cement board shears, no dust, no noise and little clear up. Great for avoiding silicosis.
About to start a three car garage as a home builder with help. This very timely. You also are doing a great job instructing.
A Veto Techpack, a $600 backpack with inserts but I save so much time always having my tools organized on the go.
As a roofer, the tool I bought that was a game changer for me was the AJC Mag-hatchet. I don't know how I ever lived without it now that I've had it for a few years.
Fun fact about rebar, I was talking to an engineer on my last job and he was saying to never go overkill with rebar in footings.
It wasn’t a big issue with my footings but for one of the pads we had, we ran out of 1/2” rebar so had to use up what we had left for 5/8” for 4x4 grid pattern. He said using bigger rebar actually decreases the amount of deflection and can fail eventually over time because it’s too strong and it needs to deflect to take the weight. Blew my mind when I was talking to him, even drew me a diagram and everything to show me the difference in using rebar!
Good stuff. Thanks for the content and the lessons 🤙
Loved the singing was awesome. It’s funny we listen to a lot of music at work so I get to know just about every song word for word!😂😂
I should invest in the Max TwinTier rebar tying tool and go around tying rebar on small construction sites.
Bought dump truck and rebar tying tool. Both are worth it
7:48 perfection is the enemy of progress.💯
Yes I’m having fun and learning a lot!!
Bought a sawstop cabinet saw, painful on the wallet but not on the fingers, and it’s a dream to run.
Always feel smarter at the end of your videos, like I’ve been in class walking away with more knowledge.
My cry once tool is a $380 hultafors wrecking bar, no other tool can do what it does but I still can’t get over the price for what it is
Thanks! I'm just trying to pay forward all those that have taken the time to teach.
Hello Tim,
Absolutely love you channel (more long form content please)
In answer to you question - everything Festool that I own was a shock but worth every penny (from the UK).
Keep up the great work
Gerard
We spax a couple of vertical 2 by 6s into the exterior wall, sticking up about a foot. The block catches the wall and lines it up perfectly.
Im likin those safety glasses. What brand
www.iwearhyspecs.com/ check the video description for the discount code
I love the scenery where i live in PA with the forests and lakes. But that view there is just something else.
Your videos are great. For finding your highest elevation try using the laserline gr1000 cut/fill grade rod. It makes this process incredibly easy. I am the receiver on a stick or four foot level guy as well, but this tool has made life easy!!!!
I love Leavenworth, it’s better on any random weekend than any seasonal Oktoberfest in the USA
Is it ever cost effective to use epoxy set anchor bolts on sill plate? As opposed to the wet set vertical steel.
nope. But it is to use Titens from Strong Tie
@@AwesomeFramers So what situation would you rather use the Titens over the wet set steel application? Titens seem so much more accurate and neat.
You do good work!!
Nice hike. To quote a line from Monty Python, "The Larch".
Obviously I know nothing about setting all your foundation up I am a finish ; sub contractor?
However; what bout that light weight rebar made from “ fiberglass “ ? Is that even something you considered or try?
Thank you for the video !
yep looked into it. It didn't have the ICC rating needed when we looked into it
I bought the FesTool domino thingy the larger one and I'm glad I did. With extra cutting bit it was a little over $1800.
That spot in the mountains is beautiful, what's the altitude? Are there trout in that lake?
Don't think there is any fish in that lake, but don't really know. I googled it, its about 6500'
Paslode XP framing nailer, cost me $400 including the initial fuel charges, greatly speeds up framing work and makes it easier, especially when we are on ladders or on top of walls
zone the UK we tend to dig a rrench for strip foundation. Then blinding concrete. then regards. fill with concrete. Saves on formwork. Very rear for foundations ti be only 300mm (1' for those still on the 18th century).
Clay movement is a big concern
Save the corner bars for the walls, are you sure they want them in the footing? I’ve never seen that
Yep, I checked, our corners need to turn and lap, not just cross.
Are there cheaper laser levels that you might recommend?
I say that if you truly need then just buy and make your life easy in saving money in long term.
Auto-feed screw gun, rotating laser rather than builder's level, (Hilti green beam), beam saw, all game changers. I remember going from old style tube Makita screw guns to impacts-- definite game changer
Tim, have you ever used 'Form-A-Drain' for footers? If not, why?
Martinez hammers, Makita tracksaw, cordless nailers, tru tool belt ect
When I owned a business the tools I bought that hurt the wallet but glad I did was a excavator, dump trailer and a max rebar gun.
Love the singing… i’d be singing with you … its the only time i sing … cause ain’t nobody got time for that
Makita track saw, Milwakee cordless SDS both worth every penny
Taking the time to build it in your head before you start.
When you can see it finished in your mind.
Then reverse engineer it from the base.
Newbies/apprentices often are not allowed to see plans ,and simply told yo carry this over here etc.
To me ,a few minutes at the start of each day to discuss process and goals is a good way to inform and involve everyone.
Hiding/withholding information is/was a very bad idea.
It took to long for me to learn this unfortunately.
A physical tool was the tracksaw,I thought it was a dumb idea.
Finally bought the Makita on clearance for the 4 batteries it came with. I use the 'tablewsaw in a small box" constantly!
Timmy, for the love of god, please duck the volume of the laser receiver in these videos. Much love, you're the man.
I bought a connector nailer (ppn gun) , while the gun wasn’t particularly expensive the nails are at least in Australia. a good 8x more per 1000’ than hand nails and very few people use them here vs hand nails so instantly material costs are higher but labour is saved. So rather than paying someone a wage they live off I’m paying a manufacturer. but I get to finish and achieve more profit because I charge in line with market value for the job, but spend on tools to save time and keep the edge over others in the industry and who doesn’t like new tools
Cordless Caulk Gun, $350 plus tax... I had 2,500 Feet of Counterflashing to caulk to a Concrete Wall... I did it mostly by myself. Well worth it !!
Chief Architect Design Software. For 10 years I hand drew my home plans. Then purchased AutoCAD LT....and finally got smart and went 3D and design every project with CA X-15 design software. Total cost over the last ten years has been $9,000 in software purchases and upgrades, and about $30,000 in computers...nothing low end about the computers; PCs and laptops every 4 years.
I bought my CA software , computers and monitors years ago also. Good product.
Chief architect rocks, worth every penny.
no ICF ?
A Festool track saw and dust extractor.
I'm sorry but wouldn't the concrete pour out of the footings between the bottom of the boards and the dirt, what am I missing here?
Your money, your choice 😀
Whatever happened to OG Kyle?
Bought a 3 ton mini Ex and can do all my trenching on my time and save the customer $ on rental rates. At the end of the day I own it and can sell it or upgrade when needed
Hello.
For non-US viewer, where I can order stakes that you use?
I don't know, we ordered them through the rebar supplier. I'd ask your local supplier
😂 😅 excellent video 😅😮😢🎉🎉
I put a shed slab maybe once every three years, and even then I wish I could afford the rebar tie tool. No need to justify it, I saw the need for it as soon I became aware it of it years ago. But at that price, I cannot afford it. If they brought it down to around $600...? Yeah, I know, but one can dream...
Do you have a tool rental company near by? Home Depot or otherwise? You can always check if they have those types of tools available. HD will let you rent for 4 hours. Works great if I need a concrete mixer for small pour projects.
I love thinking about the wear and tear on ur body.u definitely think about that as u get older.
Serenaded to sleep!😂 Never run away.
paslode possitive placement nailer
Larch march!
I've tied my share of rebar in the late 70s and early 80s and that rebar tying gun would have been to us like using fire was to the caveman
$3500 concrete dust extractor. Most guys, unless they own walk behind grinders and specialize in concrete cutting/ grinding/ coatings, use shop vacs or smaller units, the bigger machines are designed for the guys that grind all the time with big walk behinds. There is no comparison. Silica dust sucks, ive been sick from it before, and I refuse to expose anyone else by using substandard equipment. This pulls dust out from my smaller grinders, saws, and other tools. Leaves my jobs cleaner, cleans better when its used to clean floors before applying coatings, and is much much safer due to the efficiency of how it pulls dust out, and then manages the dust by bagging it without needing extra handling. If i rent a walk behind grinder or bigger machine for a job it can handle the extra load with no problem. Expensive to buy but it makes me so happy every time I use it.
He won't smokin weed he was having a safety meeting !
0:02 how do you know what weed smells like, sir
Festool Kapex w/ wings and stand $3000 plus!
Went from packing 80 pound 12” Makita , plus 30 pound stand , and 50 pound fast cap wings !
Now ? 56 pounds and dead nutz accuracy on my Moulding cuts! I bought the 26 vac system w/ it ! Hepa filter which now I don’t breathe as much MDF dust!
For some reason, your wife doesn’t seem excited about your singing capabilities.
Most expensive investment is the wife - traded my best 3 goats for her, but it’s worked out pretty well in the long run
I’d put up a couple of trail cameras if I were you. Hopefully nobody’s scoping out your job site.
They are and I'm installing one Monday.
👍👍
I smoke weed on constructions sites all day brother god bless us carpenters brother man
Not on my job. Safety is a priority.
@@AwesomeFramers trust me dad these guys I got are way more safer when they’re chasing the dragon all day. Side note great content very informative you’ve taught me everything I know so far thanks dad
Great stuff. I wish I could have had that bar tying tool when I had a footing company! My guys would have loved me (even more than they obviously already did). Nice hike too. If you like hiking you should check out my daughter's RUclips channel www.youtube.com/@LaurenRoerick She is currently hiking the length of New Zealand (3000+ km) and last year did the Hexatrek, in France, another 3000+ km solo hike as the first North American woman to complete it. Cheers!
Any power tool what so ever. I grew up very poor and when I built my first house I started with only hand tools. Hammer, nails, hand saw everything. And not anything from a reputable brand. By the time I finished and had the walls standing I caved and bought a Milwaukee nail gun to do the sheathing. I’m now a tool addict and have well over 20k in power tools
I heard u have to cut rebar upside down and backwards😂😂😂
That’s only on days ending in “Y”. lol.
Getting an actual hammer drill and not just using a drill with a hammer feature
did you expect anything less from the guy smoking weed if you drop the video on 4/20 day
🤣🤣🤣🤣 That's so funny, this video has been uploaded since October.
Like for missile lock 🚀
Mini skid loader kanga kid
No any tool that pays for itself is worth the investment if you're only building one house then no I've tied steel and as easy as it is the end of the day nobody stands up straight very easy
Wonder if some local law enforcement guys subscribe? The pothead is done for perhaps
hopefully
If it wasn’t for the tools the work wouldn’t be worth doing imo.
Why not buy an electric rebar cutter? Way easier and safer than a grinder!
I hear a portaband is quicker too
@@AwesomeFramers I used a reciprocating saw and the vibration was killer. Portaband is slow. Cutting disc gives off sparks and dust with the potential of a disc braking and causing bodily damage. Since we have the rebar cutter, its been great. Cut #4 bar in under 2 seconds, nut dust or sparks. Really think you should try one.
Really enjoy your vids!
Girls Gone Mild
Oh c’mon man, tying rebar “by hand”??? So unlike you…🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Just use zip ties and save 2500 bucks
Foundation Inspector will fail him for using plastic or metal zip ties. Tie wire or bust when it comes to rebar.
@@aaronorr5586 really? Why? The only purpose of the ties is to keep the rebar on place until the concrete cures.
@@agr18181 Plastic zip ties would likely break in the process of pouring, The metal zip ties, couldn't tell you.
you are getting too old for this - even with all the tools and cheats
please try to do a icf build at some point in the near future - could be an easy sell to clients? it should be less labor, all in all - set it and forget it, good tornado protection , built in insulation makes icf builds very efficient!
Your rebar is placed incorrectly, dangerously. Please look at how to place rebar for strip footings. The longitudinal rebar you placed are secondary for temperature. You need to place rebar perpendicular to the wall direction above (shorter distance of the footing).
Nope, the rebar is placed correctly according to the plans and engineering.
@@AwesomeFramers I am a structural engineer. You placed temperature shrinkage rebar, they will serve zero structural purposes,. Sometimes we could lay them out like that for a grade beams but even then you would need many perpendicular rebars. Anyways, your foundation is too shallow and too wide to be considered a grade beam. Double check the drawings, if you did what the drawings tell you then find another engineer. Just trying to help you out.
@@vitaliy401 Did you watch the entire video? I placed it as per our structural engineer. The steel rein is 3" off the dirt running longitudinally.... exactly as it's designed, and engineered. You can find diagrams in the code that show this as well.
I guess every single strip footing built in the PNW over the last 60 years needs to be ripped out and rebuilt because all the engineers were wrong. 🙄
Just telling you as an engineer. If you had a grade beam then it would be correct but for strip footing it's not. Basic reinforced concrete design. So if engineers are telling you this then get new ones. Having said that, if you're putting a 1 story framed house on this, nothing will probably happen (at least nothing major) since the loads are so light. But you should not show this as an example since it's wrong.
Interesting, in Australia you would never get away with that footing the smallest footing I have ever seen approved is 60cm depth which generally means digging out the earth below pad level; second issue is the rebar is a minimum of two rebar bottom sitting on concrete block and two up top held together by bent form linkage wired together top rebar 15cm from the finish level and the minimum thick is 12mm deformed bars plus you have to lay a thick layer of plastic membrane in the trench before you lay any steam for moisture that concrete always such up giving you salt damp.